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Replacing the Timing Chain On a Range Rover Sport and Late Model 5.0L and 3.0L Land Rovers and Range Rovers
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, strip down the front engine compartment and complete the timing chain and related components on a Range Rover Sport 2011 (non-supercharged). This service is not recommended for the do-it-yourselfer, and will give you a new appreciation for your Land Rover tech. The job requires special tools (covered in the video) and in-depth knowledge of the Range Rover. The genuine Timing Chain Kit #
TCK5030 provides all the components you need for a complete timing chain and timing component overhaul on an LR4, Range Rover Full Size or Range Rover Sport (see years for exact fitment.) Includes 3 chains, guides, shoes and related parts for a complete replacement and overhaul. The specialty tools needed for this job are available as related items with kit # TCK5030 on our website. Gareth will also address changing out the water pump and thermostat, and camshaft sprockets, which is part of tearing down to access timing chain and /or recommended wear replacements. Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Hi I'm Gareth here's the timing chain kit that we used on the engine the table you see here is the basic procedure to do the job anyway a lot of the components on the table here are not part of the kit the main part of the kit is the timing chains shoes guides right here in the center section of the table a few of the other components of serviceable components that I decided a good replacements while are you doing the job they're all where components are the components more serious wear out and have issues are the v BTS here and here exhaust and intake the other tools are necessity components you have to use to remove parts or tighten or secure components on the engine rather than the word so saying before these are some of the basic tools you absolutely have to have to do the job with this tool is for holding the front dampener the crankshaft dampener and removing the crank pulley bolt these go together as part of a kit it's a 24 millimeter socket it's actually a 3/4 Drive so be prepared for that so that's for holding the crank pulley bolt this tool kit part of the kit is for removing the damper on the front of the engine the front pulley effectively this is the timing toolkit which is have it calls the cam locks the camshaft or turning tool the crankshaft flywheel locking tool and another locking tool for the flywheel over here we have the slide hammer for removing the fuel injectors are very needed tool you're not gonna get the injectors out without this this tool is the fuel injector seal calibration tool and the install at all four is sizing and installing the nylon seals here that hold the injectors well the seals on the tools this job is should only really be covered and carried out by a professional auto technician like this today we're gonna do a replacement timing chain kit on this 2011 Range Rover Sport non supercharged the timing chain kit is a TCK 50 30 we're gonna start off with the basics of taking off the engine covers the radiator shroud the radiator fan all the air intake pipes first we're gonna start with taking off the engine harmonic cover basic just a nice quick tug to pull it off the bass stops and slide out which removes the cover next we're gonna remove the air intakes here and left and right so we can access the front to remove the cooling system shroud from the fan and the radiator remove the pipes the intake pipes gentle tug takes it off the airbox off of the main intake and we're gonna loosen the hose clamp that holds the main air intake from the intake plenum removal of the main engine breather here from removal of the clamp that holds it onto the intake plenum and the breather pipe here by squeezing the two sides and pulling firmly to remove it off the front then a small wiggle should pull the whole assembly out giving full access to the front next is removal at the top fan shroud so we can access the fan for removal there is a clip on both sides tucked underneath here the tilt to the side freeze it and on this side on driver side the press to the side again be careful holding full access to the fan next we want to disconnect the fan electrical connector gentle tug right out it slides right out on these slots a press on the clip and a nut foam tug hold the connector apart next is to loosen off the main nut that holds the fan to the front of the engine so once the fan has been loosened it can be spun off non supercharged cars have a right-hand thread to loosen supercharged cars left-hand thread to loosen this is non supercharged so we're doing it unloosen in the clockwise direction which would normally be tightening so once it's loose it's just nice from the radiator shroud which of course then gives us more access to everything we need to get to at the front of the engine next job is to remove the two belts from the front of the engine the first belt is driving is driving the viscous fan pulley from the crankshaft the second one is the primary belt which drives all the ancillaries which has the tensioner here which will put a tool in here to remove this one we'll undo the three bolts and then remove the pulley off bringing the belt with it so to remove this pulley I undid the three bolts and gave it a gentle tap with a copper hammer right on the edge to shock it loose and that will bring the pulley off of the hub and that will give us the room to remove the belt and the pulley in one next job is to remove the tension off the main tensioner from the primary belt by putting a ratchet or a breaker bar into this slot here relieve the tension off of the belt take the belt off of the tough pulley here relieve the tension back off of the tensioner then we're going to remove this main assembly here this bracket as it's got a roller behind it attached to it which holds the primary belt on also so the tension is quite tight we're going to need a good bit of leverage and a nice good strong hole to remove the tension and then to remove the belt I'm gonna try and pull it off at the top pulley and let the tension go all the way back the belt is actually loose but trapped behind the police next job is to remove this bracket here which is the support bearing area for the viscous fan unit now we can remove the bracket with the pulley on it that also rolls the belt around next I'm going to remove the tensioner bolt here and pull the tensioner off so it should give us more clear access to remove the whole belt from the front of the engine one main bolt that's the whole tensioner off and gives us full access to remove the belt at this point now we have it the belt is now free and can be removed from the front of the car as we're doing this job which is going to be timing chain replacement and the guides and timing chain tensioners and shoes I've also noticed that the vehicle has a little bit of a coolant leak we can see the coolant down here and it appears to be coming from the manifold area where the water pump mounts to the front of the engine so while we're in there we're going to replace the water pump at the same time the next job in the procedure is to drain some coolant out so we can remove the radiator top hose the thermostat assembly and the lower hose so we can gain access to the right side cover that covers the timing gears so to remove the thermostat we have to access the retaining screw down on the side of the cylinder had to do that I'm going to pull out the airbox will give me a straighter more direct access removal of the push plug that holds the wiring harness to the airbox and then a quick squeeze of the connector pulls the connector clean off and took it out the way over there a gentle tug that has now given me clear visibility and access to the retaining screw right there to undo so we can free off the thermostat assembly I'm going to undo the clamp here here and here and then remove the thermostat from the vehicle so I can then get access to the main timing cover at the front of the engine so after removing the screw it's left the thermostat free and loose I'm gonna pull the thermostat off the main water pipe manifold at the top here and off of the water pump housing I'm gonna disconnect this quick connector so we can pull the whole assembly out and gives us more access in room so for removal of the thermostat assembly normally we've been pulling this clip and pulling it clean out of the slot of the lower section of the hose however it seemed a little bit tight and seized and I didn't want to damage it so actually undid the main clamp off the lower radiator hose and the bypass hose here so I could access it a little easier and pull it out as an assembly and separate it afterwards at this point we're making a conscious decision to replace the thermostat assembly as a service component we already know that the water pumps leaking it would be good practice to replace the thermostat also at this time so I've removed this little bypass hose from the water pump so not to break it no one do the smaller hose here I'm gonna take it off at the top of the reservoir and the radiator so it gives us good play room nothing gets broken and everything stays intact so I've removed the pipes from the fittings on the right on the engine from the reservoir and on the radiator we'll pop it to one side so it doesn't get damaged and we can reinstall it afterwards I'm going to remove this other hose here from the water pump area which will open up a lot more and then we're gonna start on doing electrical connectors from the front of the engine so we can access all the timing covers properly then we're going to start and access the crank pulley and remove the front crank pulley from the front of the engine and probably the water pump as well so we remove the serpentine belts from the engine the tensioner we move the power steering pump pulley off of the power steering pump these can be a little bit tight there are gets to be rust corrosion build up on the edge of the flange here I took it off I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight and scraped away a lot of the loose rust and then pried it off it did come off quite clearly and easily the next job was to remove the timing covers from the front of the engine to inspect and test the timing very ATIS to see if they turn smoothly or not this one I took off already as you can see they literally have several screws that hold them on and then a gentle pry against the Tang here and here will pull it off and it will literally pop right off same on the other side I took the screws off of this side already this is just a little bit of a wiggle to pull off and take out those will be refitted with fresh new sealant on them the next job we've established is we are actually going to replace the timing gear variators here here and over on the passenger side here and here however to do that job we need to remove the valve covers which includes of course removing the fuel injectors spark plugs and coils so I'm going to spend some time on removing the valve covers injectors and we'll be taking more video of that at the time when I get further into that part of the job okay we're gonna remove the breather pipe what looks like the purge line disconnect it here I'm going to undo the wiring harness for the ignition coils and then gain access to the injector rail fuel ignition coils off next a little bit of a tight fit here and here but these two are quite straightforward and easy injector rail out unfortunately the injectors are stuck in and we've got to pull them out there is a special tool for that job a slight hammer saw for the injector removal after the cylinder heads and of course after removing them from the saw and adds when they're reinstalled they have to be put back in with you tap on rings and seals and clips these are the injectors the 5.0 litre engine uses it's a direct injection they seat directly into the sense of the cylinder head and they have to be removed with a slide hammer this is the slide hammer here there are two cuts at the end of the slide hammer that go over the injector somewhat like this to set up a little bit color goes down that's in the cylinder head and some good good long swipes to try and pull it out of the cylinder head they are in there pretty tight because of carbon buildup on the end of the injector and the teflon rings I've also soaked mmm the injectors down with a little PB Blaster you can use wd-40 it does help loosen up and soften up any carbon that might be down there and I've got two more to take out on this side I've already removed the two from ones which were easier to access so that's the next step very dirty but as you can see they're extremely tight in there and you quite a bit of work to pull out appears to be a bit cleaner but still need to clean him all right the next part of the job is to undo the bolts ten millimeter headed ones that go around the valve cover and on the inside section remove those and then pull off this side valve cover we're going to do exactly the same procedure for the right hand side left hand depending on how you're looking at the vehicle taking injectors out coils out and then the valve cover there we go looks easy enough but in there tight okay so now we have the valve cover off the left-hand side driver-side we have had full access to the cams so we can lock the cam if we need to with the new cam locks in the specialty tools we have full access to the timing chain and the variator x' that we're going to be replacing we're gonna time it up lock everything up pull the timing chains off but first I will be starting on the other side valve cover again that's the same removal process little time-consuming but same process pull everything out coils injectors ejector rail valve cover off so next step is to remove the radiator and the AC condenser so we can gain good access and vision to the front of the motor the lower section when we get the front pulley off and for when we time up and put on the new variators and timing chain with the radiator and condenser removed the next step is what I would like to do is remove the front pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the lower timing cover there cams are timed up in the safe position there is a couple of timing marks to note on the front there's a little notch right here on the variator but most importantly at the back of the cylinder head on the cams I don't know whether we can get this in but the slots are normally horizontal and you can perhaps just make out a little painted square section at the lower edge of the cam shaft that is to be at the bottom this is all of course in the workshop manual as well this one's a little bit fainter but you can see just at the bottom of the cam a little couple of numbers and a little painted yellow square box they go to the lower edge when timing it up it's the same on all four cams so the cams are timed up in the safe position to remove the chains the next job is I'm gonna send the car up put the crank lock into position so I can break free the front crank pulley and do pulley removal so here we are under the vehicle I'm going to lock up the crankshaft with the timing plug tool which goes in where the crank sensor goes here on the left side of the engine driver's side you take the crank sensor out and put in the timing tool it's already in there located it can be a bit fussy to get into the right place a little bit of wiggling of the crank backwards and forwards but it does go in nice and firmly the next thing is I'm gonna remove the starter motor out of the engine and I'm gonna install this lock tool into the flywheel which holds everything nice and tight so when we put on all the pressure on the front crank pulley bolt we can actually remove it without turning any of the crank and messing up any of the timing so that's the next step I'm going to start pulling the starter motor out so I can pop this in its in its place and hold the flywheel solid so I like to crank up with the locating pin into the reluctor ring I also put in the special tool that comes in the kit that we sell that goes in where the starter motor goes and it locks into the toothed flywheel you have to find a couple of new pieces of hardware some new nuts and bolts to through bolt it into place and make sure it is locked in between the teeth when I put it in initially I noticed that I hadn't locked it in between the teeth after I used a mirror to inspect had to realign it there is a bit of free play in the plate and the locking pin that goes into the teeth so you do have to make sure you get it between the teeth and not next to the teeth it's all locked up get the cams can't turn the engine can't turn I've put on the special tool on the front pulley you do have to use a jack stand to lock the actual arm of the holding tool I've actually used a piece of 2x4 underneath there as well because I don't have enough room or length on the actual jack stand to hold the locking tool the holding tool in place now the engine can't turn or anything there's a special socket that goes in to hold and undo the bolt it's actually a three-quarter drive I actually bought an adapter a free quarter to half-inch and you will definitely need a nice long breaker bar to actually break the ball loose it's extremely tight I actually broke it loose a few minutes ago but it goes in nicely locks on the bolt like I said I broke it loose a short while ago and it's probably gonna take two good strong pulse to break it loose this is a left-hand thread to loosen it's worth looking into if it has like 12.2 marker on it it's a left-hand thread if it's a 10.6 it's a right thread to undo but definitely worth checking and taking the time to clean the head of the bolt and inspect with the mirror to see which thread it is so now I'm going to undo the holding tool and take it off the pulley and assemble the tool that actually pulls pulley off and the hub assembly from the crankshaft it's got a flanged washer on it that's why it won't come out any further here's the bolt you can see clearly it's a left-handed thread bolt and on the end it says 12 which denotes left-hand thread and recollect from the workshop manual if it's got a 10 it's a right hand thread to undo so now that's out I can take out the other four bolts and screw in the adapter for the power so we can actually take off the hub assemblies on it so the four bolts that left holding the police to the remain to the hub assembly are actually locked on you can see the three I've already taken out this blue loctite on them they're exceptionally tight so when you do come to take them off because there are talks had there h ly a 50 I'm making sure that right now I'm using a 3/8 drive extended ratchet we do come loose so the next procedure is to move the crankshaft pulley dampener assembly it's only really possible with the actual factory tool I have heard of people using an aftermarket tool but you have to be careful not to damage the threads inside the crankshaft these have a left hand thread so we actually went out and purchased the tool specific for the job we will be carrying the kit in the future which will have the hub the bearing and the bar that screws into the crankshaft with the left hand thread I have it assembled right now there are two different length bolts one for removal of the pulley and one for reinstallation so there will be two sets of bolts the kit will also be comprised of the holding tool which is a separate item from the removal tool of the pulley this literally just holds the pulley and the engine still while you undo the crankshaft bolt okay so here we have the crankshaft dampener assembly puller an installer it does both there are people I have heard who bought aftermarket generic pullers say they can get them up with that however this just eliminates any possibility of any damage happening to the pulley or to the engine or the crankshaft the kit comprises of the main shaft assembly which is all separated in the care to bear in mind it comes one end is of left hand thread that goes into the crankshaft and the other is the threaded bar the actual puller installer sits on as you can see there's two bearing assemblies two different sizes one for each side to remove the pulley from the crankshaft the shaft is screwed in first into the crank then you install the hub assembly the bearing assembly which goes I always put the bearing in first it goes into the damper and recesses all the way as far in as you can get it then the other bearing goes on and put in for removal the hub goes this way around over the top and is screwed in the hub with four bolts no four corners screwed down tight and then removing hold the main center butter shaft with one wrench and undo with the other one that pulls the whole assembly off to reinstall the bearings come out to reinstall the hub is actually screwed directly to the front flange of the damper in the second set of bolts which are shorter screwed in all the way down the bearing seats screwed in and then the shaft screwed into the crank and then screwed the opposite way to push it back on to the crank until it's fully home so with the pulley assembly the extractor assembly installed hold the bar with one wrench and undo with the other you may see it's slowly pulling off a little bit time-consuming but the right way to do the job it is on quite tight I can feel it it is coming away okay so the pulley is now loose on the shaft the main shaft that screws into the crank I will probably try and unscrew the whole assembly so we can take it off in one piece bearing in mind is the left hand thread to undo and it's quite a long threaded bar so now we have the whole assembly off it is a tight fit on the crankshaft I've heard of them being extremely tight I believe this one probably came off quite easily and then the next job is to remove the front timing cover from the engine to gain full access to the lower timing area now we have it front cover off pretty straightforward may want to suggest a toil crank seal replacement this one looks to be distorted it's flat around the bottom edge here and up on the top it probably is just the outer dust seal however I don't want to take any risks and half in to go back in there so it'll probably get replaced I already test fitted the cam lock tool to this side that we're going to take the chains off of and the variators and the guides I did the other side the passenger side already the cam tools locked in holding the cams in time the variator Zaroff one thing I did note is that the screws in the intake camshaft were very sludgy and dirty so I'm gonna make sure I clean everything out nice and clean the guides are off the chains are off the tension is off I'm gonna follow that same procedure for this side here this side seems to be locked in place pretty well this is the cam lock tool the exhaust side the intake side it the timings spot-on and this should actually locate in the slots at the back of the camshaft so the camera is back in and locked the cams are locked in the time to position the cam locked all at the back there can be a little awkward of fiddly to fiddle around with because of the bulkhead firewall here you have to get the twist wingnut close to be lined up so it's nice and locked in there next job is I'm going to loosen off the variator screws and pull the variators off place them out of the way they are getting replaced so we will side with a new chain guides and tensioner tensioner is off this is the old style it's gonna get the new style put on the change and that's it the change tensioners role guides off we're now ready to clean up a little bit and start putting the new very acres back on the change back in the guides etc and try and get this thing back together solid so here we are I've built up the driver side of the timing chains bolted in first the first static chain guide the plastic nylon one then I put in the unbolted in the metal one that has the tensioner running against it which is right here the pen is still in it we don't remove the pen until we're ready to set the timing as you can see the exhaust variator is has a little notch at the top here where the timing chain of the mark on the timing chain has to align with the intake has a mark notch on the backside of it here where the paint mark on the chain is meant to align with there should be a little bit of free play in each variator there's a fraction less in this one so when we actually preload the variator x' and set pull the pin on the timing chain tensioner everything the chain tension is set properly also in the kit comes a new oil feed tube pipe here I already replace that but you have to do it beforehand as you can see it feeds the bat gear drive I put our new thrust washers on the crankshaft gear front and rear and I'm gonna build up this side on the left side on the dry passenger side I already check the timing on the balance shaft which is correct so we have both sides built up now the timing variators are on on the left side on the passenger side the timing marks being here I don't know whether we can get that one in there right here but below there's a yellow mark on the chain which lines up and again down here which lines up with an a' marker on the guide on the plastic guide right here now timing up the engine you do have to make sure that the chain actually locate on the crank gear I noticed when I was putting the variator Zahn it had slept off and it seems like it's very easy for it to slip off without noticing and of course note after that I had to take the variators off again relocate it re time it then I put on the tensioner tells you to apply a pressure to the back of the chain guide and then pull the pen and when you pull the pin you do hear a positive loud click of the actual piston coming out and extending and hitting the guide and the tension going on the chain same on both sides of course right and left after that procedure we use this tool here to tension the variators a bit of a strange shape however driver-side you take the screw out of the oil suction tube and pull it forward slightly you roll the tool in behind the gear you locate the pen into the timing gear T which locks it into place we have a torque wrench set to 23 foot pounds which is 32 Newton meters you pull and hold and keep the tension on and tighten up the three screws on the variator on both very ATIS which pre-load the variator x' to there set this side comes out and on the driver side you only tension from the intake and then on the passenger side you tension from the exhaust tool goes in you lock it in I locked it in as far forward as I could because as you can see there's not much room between here and the body of the vehicle the workshop manual does tell you to let undo the engine mounts and Jack the engine up if you're doing it in the car I found that I moved it far enough and kept the pressure on just at this point but that's not that that might not be the norm for all car engines so all the timing gear is Sat bass valve timing your set tension on the variator is set so the next job is to put the crank pulley bolt in the end of the crank rotate the engine over to rotations and recheck the timing however before that I have to remove the cam locks from the back of each cylinder head one two and remove the crank locking tool from the flywheel and from the reluctor wheel so that's going to take me a few minutes to do I'll sort that out and rotate the engine over twice and recheck my timing okay so all the timing is all set up and I have taken the crank locks out and the cam locks are out at this time we're going to rotate the crankshaft two turns for one turn of the cam and recheck the timing and we should be close to putting back in the cam locks and there we go two turns there's one coming up on two okay so we're putting the car the engine back together the timing has all been set I did actually get it off by a fraction so I had to reset it again I found that actually putting in the cam locks back in they come with these wing nuts but because the bulkhead here on the firewall interferes with the wing nut I actually used a 8 125 bolt about two and a half inches long and it does the same job everything is all perfectly turned up now using these cam locks but like I say it's a tight fit on this driver side so I put a bolt in works just as well to continue on we're gonna put the front timing cover back on back into place it has a neoprene seal on it right the way around and then we'll put the crank pulley back on which has to be pressed back on using the tool that we use to remove it with at that point we're gonna build up the front put the valve covers back on front covers back on and put all the answer is back on we'll be doing a step-by-step probably on refit on a few of the components a lot of it is just reverse of removal of course and we'll be putting a new water pump back on the engine as well so the tool is now bottomed out the pulleys on as far as it can go with me just swing it on the pulley sorry on the pressed or I'm gonna remove the press tool from it remembering clockwise to unscrew I'm gonna check with a mirror just to make sure it is fully home and I can even see the key and whether you can see that there key all the way at the bottom at the six o'clock position we still have the crank locked with the locking pin in the flywheel which is gonna stay there until I actually tighten up the front pulley bolt which will add a bit of extra locking we also have to put on the new hub lock for the front dampener put it to the opposite side as we did to undo so we can actually swing on it it takes 200 Newton metres of torque and then 3/4 of a turn it is a stretch bolt so we're reinstalling the front upper timing covers they can be installed with the solenoids in I'm gonna put a thin bead of sealant around this surface here I already put the driver side on they go on very easily but you do have to make sure the mating surfaces are nice and clean and free from the old RTV sealant I've scraped it all off trying not to damage the mating surface the sealant will take up a certain amount of scratches but you can't go Jim of course after that we're gonna install the valve covers I've already put on new seals new gaskets and the bolts back in to help locate the gasket and hold it in place while we try and reinstall it without losing the gasket nice thin bead of sealant okay that's the front cam covers on next job is to put the valve covers on just a couple to hold it in place just checking to make sure the Halfmoon seal at the back on that valve cover is seated in its right place so the harmonic dampener pulley from crank pulley is back installed I pressed it on ivory mounted the dampener holding tool that just holds everything static while you talk tighten it the torque setting initially it's 200 Newton meters and then a 3/4 turn - which is for the torture yield stretch bolt so now I pre turned it but we can feel it there's the 200 Newton meters remove the torque wrench then they want a 3/4 of a turn on the talk to yield balls I've fortunately already tightened it but of course you need a good length break a bar to get that leverage it is quite tight at that point not that I needed two people but I had an assistant help me just makes life a little easier after that stun all that holding tool can be removed the lock pin out of the flywheel can be removed and then I'm gonna start on putting the rest of the motor back together putting fuel injectors in coils back in reconnecting fuel lines etc etc radiator back in of course and then at the end I will reiterate and go over everything again there's no real need to get into any detail of really installing all the components because basic knowledge is that all the components go back on as they were removed I mean I'm sure most of the shops that are going to be continuing to do this sort of job no matter the water pump and replace the thermostat so we focus mainly on the timing chain care and the components that were associated to it so when you're ready for a challenge after replacing this timing chain kit on a 5.0 engine give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our knowledgeable sales reps and they will say well pretty much with all the tooling and all components they need to the job or you can visit our website at roverparts.com.
Applies To These Models:
LR4 / Discovery 4 V8 5.0 Liter | '10-'13
LR4 / Discovery 4 V6 3.0 Liter | '14-On
Range Rover Full Size | '10-'12
Range Rover Full Size Supercharged | '10-'12
Range Rover Full Size V8 5.0L Naturally-Aspirated | '13-On
Range Rover Full Size V8 5.0L Supercharged | '13-On
Range Rover Full Size V6 3.0L Supercharged | '13-On
Range Rover Sport | '10-'13
Range Rover Sport Supercharged | '10-'13
Range Rover Sport V8 5.0L Supercharged | '14-On
Range Rover Sport V6 3.0L Supercharged | '14-On
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