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Install Tie Rods On LR4
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, install tie rods on a Land Rover LR4 2011-2012. Using Tie Rod Part # LR010667. Check VIN # for correct tie rod fitment.
Hello I'm Gareth the tech support here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to do a inner and outer tie rod ends. It's on a 2012 Land Rover LR4. A quick intro on the inner and outer tie rod ends. We do a TRW kit here. The LR010667. The kit includes a new steering rack boot, an outer tie rod end, inner tie rod end, a little bit of grease and the fixing hardware. Now I did cheat a little bit and I've already undone and loosened a lot of the equipment. However I will go over it step by step on what to do. It's not particularly difficult. This job we should be able to sort of knock out in about 20 minutes, half an hour max in a good well equipped workshop. First job what I normally do is loosen the nut on the outer tie rod end and take the nut off the tie rod end. This one I did like I said loosened and took apart already. So it should theoretically, at this point fall out, he says. I'm gonna give it some help. A nice little copper hammer here and a tap. There are a few things I'm going to explain as we go along. As you can see at this point in time it doesn't look like a typical outer tie rod end. This is the new tie rod end and as you can see it's tapered. This does not appear to be tapered. This is actually a tapered cup that belongs inside the wheel hub assembly of the hub itself. So this has to be removed off of the outer tie rod end. I did one a few moments earlier over here. As you can see this is the cup with the taper, the tie rod. I used a two-legged puller. Basic two-legged puller to remove the cup from the tie rod end. They are on tight. I was lucky this one popped off quite easily with the use of an electric 3/8 wrench, sorry, electric wrench I should say. Popped right off. I have heard some times that you do have to apply a little bit of heat on them with the two-legged puller for them to pop.But this one came off quick and easy. This is the old inner and outer tie rod end like I said. As you can see there are no flats on the inner tie rod end nut assembly. What I used to remove them is a pipe wrench. Put it on and a quick, actually, this one's already loosened but that's what I use to loosen them. They're not particularly tight and they do not have to be particularly tight. So it's loose. Literally just unscrew the whole assembly is what I do. And the whole assembly is off. The only thing that holds the steering rack boot on is a zip tie or a metal clip which I generally cut and throw it in the bin. You always get supplied a new zip tie in the kit to go around the new boot here. And on the other end of it a smaller, nice squeeze clamp in the kit. The little white squeeze clamp. The next job what I'll be doing is I'm actually going to loosen this off the nut in the vise because I'm actually going to count the turns it takes to take the tie rod end off so we can be close for the alignment afterwards because obviously we don't want it too far out and end up having the wheels toeing out or tuning in too far scrubbing off the tires before it goes to the alignment shop. Yes the vehicle definitely needs an alignment after this job. On this vehicle you might notice we already did the lower control arms and we did the coil spring conversion. Now because we did the lower control arms the camber will be out so it absolutely has to go to an alignment shot for a full four wheel alignment, and that's why we're also doing these inner and outer tie rods. There as old as the vehicle is, so they've never been replaced. It's just good practice at this point because they're probably ten years old now. Wow that came well. Glad that popped off so easy. Two cups, one for each side. There's no size difference. They literally just go back in the slot. I'm gonna see if it will stay in, I might tap it a little bit with a copper hammer to see if it'll stay. If not I'll probably just pop it in at the same time I do the new tie rod end. So it appears that the cups, this is the first time I've done these on the LR4, it does appear that the cups do just push into place. They'll slip into place initially. A little tap and they stay ready for the new tie rod end to go into. Okay so I've got the new tie rod end put on the new inner tie rod end. I've actually put anti-seize grease on there and you have to watch because that stuff gets just about everywhere. You touch it once and you might as well live with it because it does not come off it seems like. So the new boot is on. Going to slide it back a little bit. As you can see this tie rod you know comes with two slots whereas the old one did not come with any slots. So if you can have a wrench big enough you can install it and pinch it off with a wrench. I'll find one afterwards but for the time being. No where in instructions does it say about using Loctite on the threads. I've never used Loctite. You can if you like. It's a personal preference. If you were to use any I would probably suggest the blue. Then it's very much easier you know for service in the future. I've always put them on, screwed them in without and pinched them nice and tight and I've never had one come loose yet. Even in the workshop manual it doesn't say anything about using Loctite. So at this point I'm going to screw it in to the rack. And that's that. I'm gonna try to find a wrench to fit. OK I've proven to myself I don't have a wrench to fit it so I'm going to put it that far the way I took it off. I'm going to make this easier for myself in a moment. Okay I pinched it tight. I'm gonna give it a nice good tug. And I think that would be plenty tight enough. I know it wasn't quite that tight taking the old one off. I put the same pipe wrench on it to loosen it, pull it straight down and it came apart. So at this point we can now slide the boot back on. I use a little bit of glass cleaner on the old seal area to lube the steering rack boot on. Pops right on. The kit comes with a big zip tie. That will hold it on. Going to snip off the excess. Tidy it up a bit. And then I'm gonna put the nut on the outer. At this point going to turn the steering in a little bit because I want the steering rack boot to sit in the groove where it should. That kind of locks it into place for the new clamp, which is here. I'm going to pinch off the lock nut, not tight, but just enough to hold it. Car is booked in for an alignment tomorrow. I'm just going to drop the vehicle down a little bit. And because I'm very lucky here I have the ability to use a bit of air. So the inner and outer is now on. Nice and tight. The new hardware is nice and tight. The collar is in on the knuckle joint, the outer tie rod end in place. I counted the turns back on, almost exactly the same as the old one came off. Of course the vehicle's going for an alignment tomorrow, the alignment shop is about five miles down the street. Is it going to scrub the tires a little bit? A little bit, fractionally, but obviously we're not driving it too far so the alignment will be taken care of tomorrow for camber which because we did the low control arms last week and because we've done the inner and outer tie rod ends. The boots on nice and secure. The inner tie rod end is nice and tight to the rack. That's pretty much the process for replacing inner and outer tie rod ends on LR4. This is a 2012 model. There has been some questions regarding inner tie rod end size. Some people say they have a 14 millimeter and a 12 millimeter. One on each side. This vehicle specifically had two 12 millimeters in a tie rod end size. A lot of the time if you're ordering online or anything, I would specify VIN number to get the correct one because I know on LR3 you can get a 14 millimeter one side and a 12 millimeter the other side. My experience with LR4 has been both sides of 12 millimeter however, can't be gospel, there is a possibility of a 12 and a 14 ml one side to the other. But it, like I say, in my experience, I've only ever come across to 12 millimeters one on either side.
Applies To These Models:
LR3 / Discovery 3 V8 4.4L | '05-'09
LR3 / Discovery 3 V6 4.0L | '05-'09
LR4 / Discovery 4 V8 5.0 Liter | '10-'13
LR4 / Discovery 4 V6 3.0 Liter | '14-'16
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