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Discovery Series 2 BOSCH Head Gasket DIY Replacement Part 1
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British in this video we're gonna touch on something that we've had a lot of requests for in the past that's a fairly common issue with some of these older 401 4 sixes and that's head gaskets we found a lot of our do-it-yourself technicians and a lot of shops have called me on different issues on these but the biggest thing basically is usually head gaskets so what we're gonna do is we're gonna give you basically a video on how to do that so first I want to talk about the kit that you're gonna need now of course you know like on the floral and the four six as of 1999 he went from gems to Bosch so you need to be able to identify which engine you have in your vehicle before you even begin and that you can get that information right off of our website so what we're going to do is we're going to show you on a Bosch which is a little bit more complicated than the gem so it might be a better one to be able to get into so what I'm going to show you first is the gaskets kit that we have available comes all in one set and gives you all the gaskets that you're going to need to be able to do the whole head gasket job now this is under our part number sa404b engine we do have one for the gems so you'll need to be able to find that in a website the other thing is and because they you normally recommend that you replace them with every head gasket job is going to be head bolts now these are torque to yield head bolts so the specification on these when you tighten them in is based on how many degrees you turn the ball and we'll get into that when we talk about reassembly but this is the head bolt kit that you'll need now if you want to go one step better we also have a stud kit available which will take the place of the head bolts I find this is a more reliable setup especially when you're dealing with aluminum engines because of the high expansion and contraction when they eat and cold so this stud kit is also available through us and we have this under a RP 4301 both of work that had the head bolts or other stud kid it all depends on how you want to put your engine together alright so before we even begin to just give you a few tips that'll make the job a little bit easier for you first off right off the bat obviously we're going to disconnect the battery disconnect the negative lead put that to the side this way you know as far as your alternator circuit and it's not gonna be live you're not gonna touch it and ground it out and cause any damage so we're gonna disconnect the battery we're gonna end up draining the coolant which I'll show you a nice little trick because on these they don't have a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator so I'll show you a nice little trick for getting that off first thing we would do then we would take off the fan shroud and the fan and I have a habit of I let the air out of the front tires which gets the nose down by about three and a half inches what makes it a lot easier to get to the hardware and whatnot towards the back of the engine the other thing you may want to do if you're not that familiar with the design this is first time taking one apart you haven't done one before it's a good idea to grab yourself if the coffee cans little plastic containers or whatever and then as you disassemble the engine you're going to put those that hardware from different segments in a container and you're going to market alternator hardware valve cover hardware and why not so when you go to reassemble it's a lot easier to identify what bolts go where and in general last but not least as I say once we've lowered the front end we disconnect the battery we're going to drain the fluid is bring your digital camera out or your smart phone when you get to an area where like say for your belt configuration or for the way the wiring is routed on one side take a picture of it before you disassemble it believe me it'll make it a lot easier when you go to reassemble so those are some tips to help get you started now I will show you how to drain the coolant alright so we're gonna start we're gonna remove the top of the fan shroud and base and all you've got is four Phillips screws and it's not even a full screw it's a turn 90 degree and release that'll pop pop this up or shroud off take the hose off and then what we'll do is get down to the the fan itself and we'll take that off so we remove the cover from the shroud now we're going to get into the fan now essentially I pre loosened this fan because with several different things you may run into one they may come off very easy where you're going to take your fan tool you're gonna run it down on the nut let it sit on there you want to do this between the blades so that you're not gonna crack a fan blade on this and just take a nice rubber mallet or something with some weight give it a I shot now 50% of the time that'll just break them loose and allow you to take the fan off but in this case we had one where we had a lot of problems and you can do several different things you can take a long straight blade screwdriver sneak it behind a tool and jam it between the water-pump hub and one of the pulley bolts there's also a tool available through Land Rover that is a long flat bar that will drop over and actually grab around all those bolts on the pulley and allow you to hold it and get some leverage if you're in the shop I know I've had to do it several times is a long air chisel extension and then just work the nut and just slowly work it off in this case we had to basically turn this off almost all the way before I finally loosened up so these can get on there pretty tight so be prepared to spend some time on this if yours is in that condition so once we've reached that point we've been able to unthread it and this is a right hand thread we just want to mark that because some of the newer land rovers have gotten left-hand thread on the Jag engines on these on the four on the four six this fan is a right hand thread so we have that off we're going to set that aside for a minute and then what we're going to do now is we're going to remove this shroud there's two 10 millimeter head bolts that'll take the shroud off remove the belt we'll show you how to do that and then at that point we'll show you how to drain the colon on this so next step is going to be removing the belt and as I said earlier what you want to do is pull you out your cell phone your camera or whatever if you're not really familiar if it's the first time you've done this to look at the routing on the belt which runs under the damper over the tensioner or over the idler around the tensioner over the alternator and then down and under the water pump pulley up and over the AC pulley behind another idler pulley and then your power steering pump so take a good picture of that and then this way later on when you go to put everything together you use know where it's supposed to go so the group of the book remove the belt you have your tensioner on the passenger side here it's a 15 millimeter head bolt you can go one of several routes you could use a long ratchet with a 15 millimeter socket you can use belt tensioner they make me sell these everywhere this is a long extended bar with various tips on to fit different vehicles and you can use that as the tensioner I prefer this and using this for years and that just pops on there and you're gonna push down which will lift the tensioner flip the belt right off the bottom idler and pop it right back off you can take the belt off and set that aside alright so the next step is gonna be to drain the coolant out of this vehicle now you notice there is no drain plug on the bottom of the radiator the factory tells you you disconnect the lower hose which means you're going to be standing under this when you let go you really don't want to do that either so what you can do you can drain about 3/4 of the cooling system out just by taking there's one bolt out of the water pump and we're going to show you where that is alright so there's the location of the bolt this is the lower of the two eleven-sixths are 11 millimeter bolts you'll know that because the rest of the bolts that hold the water pump to the front cover are 10 millimetre heads and you can see this one hoots like it had some slight leakage so it's easy to see that it actually does attach to a coolant line so I want you to take that out that's drained about 3/4 of the colon out of the block just don't forget to put a pin underneath to catch it so next step now is going to be to remove this upper hose let's get this out of our way what I did to is it gave a little pre spray of some penetrating oil on the clamps you'll notice that if you don't do that they're a little dry they come off hard shoot a little oil on them and everything comes off much easier now you have warm clamps on this particular connection but at the other ends you have the squeeze clamps before you get this hose off we're gonna take the little bypass hose off take account if you have the original hose on there these get kind of hard and brittle so you want to flex it as little as possible so I like to get this one up and out of the way because it also somewhat interferes would take in the air box and the intake tube out we'll work that off and then basically just set this down and in front of the radiator so it's out of the way less the chance of breaking it so then we're gonna take our squeeze clamp nice pair of water pumps does a great job on these so I'll take that off and then we're gonna back off the one that's here at the thermostat just lift that off there no then it's just a matter of you recently moved to wins and we'll take that clamp off and we'll get this right out of the way it's something I'll mention it of course is taking the hose off and sometimes where these hoses have been on for a long period of time they really stick on there and they don't just twist off so there's a handy tool you can get you can buy these from any tool supplier it's just nothing more than a sort of a bent pointer and you can use that to get up underneath the hose and break it loose from wherever it's attached just work it around back and forth a little bit and that separates it and once you've done that at least three-quarters of the way around you should be able to just spin that out and remove it there we go and now that hoses out now as you go through and you disassemble any engine this is a good time to be looking at different components that wear that you may look ahead of time and say okay this is Warren I'm gonna replace that as well and this way you can get your parts together before you start your assembly when you look at a hose and you look down inside which one will check out the corners on the inside if you see vertical lines in there the Nets telling you that basically the hose is starting to wear on the inside and material is breaking down that material eventually is going to end up in your reading or your heater core and to plugging it up so any sign of real way or inside these hoses you want to replace them if you see any residue or buildup on the junction that's telling you you got a leak there same thing with down on the other end of the hoses wherever you can look down in and see corners just look for lines and striations that indicate the hoses are worn this one actually internally looks pretty good I end up reusing this one now we're going to remove the top of the air box and the intake tube you have worm gear clamp here and you have what the happens these little pop Clips here and these you just get up underneath with a pick and you're gonna lift and it releases now usually recommend or I try to either put these clamps in my little plastic container or just wreak lamp them so that they stay on the hose so when I go to reassemble I can find all my clamps so then we unclip that again we kind of pretreated this clamp a little penetrating oil so it spins off much easier you just want to make sure that's good and loose and then you have two clamps here that you just pop and lift back and then your mass airflow sensor connector you're just going to squeeze the top of it you have to squeeze and tabs on both sides and most times you need a little screwdriver just to work it off a bit and move that out of the way down there twist at that off now there's an o-ring inside this air box you want to make sure one that it's there I've had vehicles come in where that was missing and also if it's expanded or if it's deteriorated and cracked because you want to make sure you have a good seal between the two so you're not pulling in debris bypassing the air filter so we'll set that aside just for a second we have a clamp here and we have a clip here and then we just lift up the back side and we lift the top of the air by ourselves now is a good time take a look at your air filter yeah I think will be replaced in that one so now if you want and very easy to do the bottom of the airbox which actually that area makes a nice shell for when we go to take the AC compressor off this is just a matter of lift until it pops it just pops into plastic grommets this would be harder in for real cold weather so keep that into account if you're working out in your driveway especially now during the winter months and then we're gonna open that up a little bit we have our cold air intake where it attaches to the fender it's just 210 millimeter nuts which I think they're even too plastic the plastic once we get them off make sure you put them in your little plastic container where you're keeping your hardware that just pops right out and we lift that out and now you see we have a nice area we can put depression when we take it out also again nice little tip you got to ground headers right here on this front firewall and these are actually rather important a lot of your sensors ground on these two points while you got the box out it would be a good idea to back them off clean them up a little bit and retighten them back up just to make sure you got a good ground hide so as we mentioned the AC compressor we're going to set it here to take the compressor off we just have a single electrical connector right here push your tab sometimes these squeeze hard there we go you can actually hear it click when it releases and then we have four ten millimeter bolts and this one in the back these you just loosen up with a wrench you really can't get a straight socket on it as you can see your throttle cable and your cruise control cable alright so we have our four bolts out we're gonna leave that back one in obviously can't get it out anyway we'll take a long bar we want to pop that loose because there are two locating dowels that will lock on on the Sun a little bit so what's great about this is we're gonna run that wire under there and you don't have to disconnect your AC so we don't have to worry about redoing it when we're done as you can see we got a nice little holding area right there and keep it out of the way now that we have the belt off now it's a good time to be checking all your pulleys we're gonna do a little spin on the alternator the tensioner so you know this one is kind of stiff and grinding we're gonna definitely replace that pulley there should essentially spin relatively free a little bit of resistance and definitely no grinding and the power steering you want to make sure you feel a little resistance there and now's a good time to grab the water pump pulley and give it a little wiggle let's see if we have any play if you feel any loose play now it's the time to replace that water pump so now what we're gonna do disconnect the battery and we're gonna remove this bracket which is the mouth of the AC compressor we'll do that by taking these three bolts out here you need to remove this pulley because there's a nut retainer nut on the backside behind this that you're going to need to remove to take this off there is a bolt on the side here holding the power steering hoses we're going to take that off we have this bolt right here you've got three long bolts that go through the bracket into the block we'll remove those and this whole aluminum assembly will come right up and out and the power steering pump is just going to be left to the side alright so as I was saying this bracket is going to be coming out and we're gonna set this down well it's a good tip to do right now find yourself a big piece of cardboard or a piece of masonite or what and you're gonna set it right down inside in front of that radiator and essentially is just to protect the radiator so as we are moving brackets and bolts and heavier objects you want to make sure that you don't slip and hit that radiator and end up now having to replace the radiator on top of your head gasket job so it's a good tip protects the radiator save you a lot of money and grief if you don't so before I take this off I just want to show you how to back them out so you can sell these are the bolts that you're going to remove there's two here which we had to remove the pulley here which is nothing more than just 13 millimeter head run the nut out in the pulley and the nut and that bulk come right out you have a bolt here and then this was the nut that Ike was mentioning earlier you take that off because that stud runs through from the head all the way through the power steering pump to the bracket and once we take these three out we can back this out now I noticed on this one normally there's a bolt right here it's more like that's what you're going to run into when you pull the AC compressor up this one in particular was missing we'll replace that when we put it back together but look for a bolt here too that you're gonna need to remove to take the bracket out take the bolts out and then we're going to just take this bracket with the power steering lines and everything and set it right down in the hall I'm right up against the cardboard protecting our radiator and that moves that out of the way without having to break open the power steering system we drain any fluid out of it so now you see the bracket out of the way you can see how much room you develop there and now we're gonna move over to the other side we're going to centrally I've been taking the long-handled 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a 13 millimeter socket on it and use that to basically break loose the bolts from there but most cases they'll come right out and you have a ground cable we're gonna disconnect this there's gonna be a 10 millimeter head bolts on this bracket right here holding the cables in place we're gonna remove that take this bolt out to remove the belt tensioner and we're gonna take this bolt out to remove this lower pulley because we're going to replace this pulley anyway just pull your shot and then once we run this bolt and this bolt out what we'll need to do is take a pry bar to get the alternator out because we have what's basically an expanding socket in here so that when we tighten these bolts it blocks everything down in place and you'll see once I get it off I'll explain a little bit further alright so now doing the passenger side bracket in the alternator and the cables and why not I started a new little container here so I control the parts in two things I'll know the alternator bolts because when we go to put this back together you want to be able to easily identify what went where and that one normally what I do is like with the tensioner and the pulley I leave the bolt right in it and I just stash that to the side so this way I know there's one two less bolts I need to identify the bolts for the alternator you'll notice have a goldish tone because these are anodized the rest of them you'll see are more of a silver color on the shaft but the two bolts that go for the alternator have a gold-tone so they're easy to identify and you want to be careful with this because when you're trying on the bottom side of this you have these fins so you don't want to put too much effort on that to break a pin get to the hardware now we disconnected the battery because otherwise if we didn't this Cable will be 12 volts hot which means you touch this to ground anywhere you're gonna get a lot of sparks so battery's disconnected we're safe there we got a 13 millimeter nut holding the cable on and then a 10 millimeter nut for your field wire we're gonna remove both of those and we have the alternator out of the way so next step is going to be the removal of this bracket the alternator mouth we've already disconnected the 10 millimeter head bolt so we've got this this mount is disconnected we have the cables disconnected at least on the heart and you'll notice now before we can remove this bracket we have another bracket off of this cooling tube right in front of it so we're going to need to remove this coin tube and that's nothing more than three 10 millimeter head bolts here here and then one underneath we'll get that out of the way and then I'll show you the four bolts you need to remove to remove this bracket just to note on the back side of this where it attaches to the intake manifold there is an o-ring we want to make sure we get the old one out of there and then you'll be getting a new one when you get your gasket set so you can discard this and I wouldn't reuse these anyway never you reuse an old o-ring so before I take them out you just want to show you the locations of the four bolts that hold this bracket in we have one two three right here and four just below it into the right we take those four bolts out and this mounting bracket comes right out now I had mentioned earlier as far as the sliding studs that hold the alternator in you can take a small hammer and tap what looks like a flat washer an inch in open the area you'll tap these in a little bit because they're mounted on rubber you might would even shoot a little penetrating oil on it before you do that and then this way when you go to put the alternator back in you'll have a little bit of free space and you won't have to try to hammer the alternator back in it'll drop right in put your bolts in and when you tighten them up it'll move this a barrel so that it locks in against the alternator all right so it's gonna take that out of the way and we'll have basically everything out of the front of the engine that we need to remove so here's the bracket removed and like we mentioned earlier so that we don't get basically lose track of what bolts go where you'll just leave the bolts sit and right in their holes and we'll set the bracket down to the side and now there won't be any back together so now that we've taken care of what's in the front of the motor and now we're gonna start looking at and disassembling the top end next we'll obviously going to be the upper intake manifold now I'm gonna go through the basics as far as the stuff that's going to be common to both the the vehicles not equipped as this is with secondary air and then we'll also touch base on some of the additional items that you need to remove off of this when you if you do have a no.3 204 with a 4 6 secondary air or even the 4 liter with California emissions they'll have secondary air so begin with we're gonna get the throttle cable out of the way where we can just lift up and that will pull up the throttle and open it will turn the will turn this barrel and there's a small opening right here that will allow you to sneak the cable out we'll just hold that open and let's make the front cable out the front and we'll snake the back cable out the back then we're gonna disconnect these two bolts right here and then we can move both cables right out of the way next is going to be removing the 2 : hoses that go to the throttle body heater now you'll notice on this this has got two regular clamps on them but they call a worm gear clamp original equipment it will be a squeeze clamp like we saw right here and like we've disconnected up top where we just put it all underneath and we lift it and pop it in this case I'll need a Phillips screwdriver we'll take these two off be careful with this plastic hose it it becomes very brittle just like we discussed on the one that runs across the top of the radiator so when you're going to move it over just be a little careful on its movement try not to twist it or catch it on anything so we're just gonna back those clamps up and we're gonna pull those two hoses off so file cable out of the way we've got a two hose is disconnected next what we're gonna do is this is the vacuum line to feed your brake booster and this has got nothing more than a quick disconnect you'll see a little holding bracket right here matter of fact you may want to take a picture of that so when you go to put this back together you know which way it goes so we'll pop that up and that'll pivot on there now we're going to push in you can take a pair of needle-nose or a regular pair of pliers you're gonna hold that red cap in against the manifold and then pull the hose out and that moves that out of the way more than likely there should be a clamp here or something to seal off this is another vacuum line there actually this is a breather hose and we'll move that out of the way and always check this little plastic nipple these loosen up on quite a few vehicles which can create a vacuum leak now is a good time before you take it off just snug it in or you can take it off put a little sealer on the thread and run it back in that would just take a 9/16 or fourteen millimeter wrench on that and that comes right out that just threads in the manifold so then by doing this it exposes this little bolt right here which holds your two heater hoses on to the intake manifold and then another down here right underneath this tube and we're gonna take that out so that we can move this hose in this line right up out of the way so we've taken the bolt out from below the heater hose line going into the intake manifold we've taken the top bolt out and we've moved that outer hose down and tucked it underneath the cruise control motor that just holds it out of the way the harness we've got sitting here we'll worry about later now at this point this tucks into an o-ring into the manifold and these usually will stick in there pretty good so what you'll essentially need to do give it a couple wraps that kind of loosen things up a little bit and then we're going to take a straight blade screwdriver and you can just get in behind that and what we're gonna do is just keep working that and you may actually Bend this bottom tab a little bit and don't worry about that you can just hammer it right back down it's not gonna do any real damage just say like I said these do stick in pretty good and we'll just keep working it a little bit what you can do if it's really got a tight one you can back it out a little bit to create an opening and we'll shoot some penetrating oil down in there let it sit about five ten minutes and then this should pull right out all right so now we're on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold and the basically the last things we need to take off of this one there's going to be this breather hose right here this will pull off the the nipple you have your throttle position sensor with your connector right here pop that connector out by just twisting this little tab and push down on the connector that takes that out then we have the vacuum line that feeds the purge valve for the evaporative control that has to squeeze buttons on this connector you're going to squeeze on both sides that will take that out we can basically pop that out of its holder right here and then we're going to disconnect that electrical connector and this way we then can take this part of the harness and work it around through the other side of the vehicle now I'm taking their vacuum line off of the purge for the purge valve as they said there's a button on each side of this connector and they're a little difficult to get at this is a tool that's made actually for removing trim plastic trim buttons and whatnot on trim and fender wells and why not and I find by simply by design this grabs right around both sides and you can push both buttons in then work that right off it makes that job a lot easier and you can actually use the same tool when we go to disconnect the fuel line off the back of the lower intake and we'll get to that later now next step is to remove the upper intake manifold now on this vehicle it's not equipped with secondary air but you'll find like on California models with secondary air and with o3 2:03 and o4 4.6 that they also have secondary air so what you'll be dealing with they'll be actually a valve sitting on a a white tube sitting here and here and it will be held in place by two studs with two ten millimeter nuts on the side of the upper intake now I found it to make it easier on the removal have taken removed the nuts and then remove the studs that are left and then what this will do is allow you to raise the upper intake without having to completely disassemble the the diverter valves now the valve sit on two corrugated pipes that are attached to two tubes that are threaded into the heads and I found the best way on those is if you take a long punch and give the big nut at the base of that y tube where it attaches to the adapter to the head you give that a couple good sharp wraps and generally they will just come right loose and come right out then you can take the vowels out out of the way there'll also be a large vacuum harness that runs across the front and over to a control valve that would sit right about here and then you also would have a sort of oval egg-shaped black plastic container here that would also have two vacuum lines to it and you would just disconnect that at this point because now your alternator and your AC compressor out and you can move that and I just wanted to give you a brief rundown on that I'm sorry we don't have one here to show you but the explanation I just gave should give you a pretty good idea what you need to do now in this vehicle and then also with the type with the secondary air once you've gotten that the tubes and the valves out you're just going to remove for ten millimeter head bolts in the center and there's another ten millimeter down in the back and another ten millimeter Center front there are also two small eight millimeter if they're the original bolts two small eight millimeter bolts that attach the top of the coil bracket to the upper intake and you're just going to sneak down in there with an extension what you can do is pop out the throttle cable to move that over and then there are spring clips that hold this wiring harness in rolling this forward we can get straight in with an extension to get to those two back bolts so that's what we're going to do now and we're gonna lift this upper intake out so we have everything unbolted so we're just gonna pop this up we're gonna lift up a little bit so it clears the there's actually a locating dowel about 3/4 of the way in under here you also gonna have an electrical connector on the backside of the idle air control motor you just squeeze there's a little bar that runs across you squeeze that and pull that connector off and then shoot for you I'll pull the upper intake off so what you have remaining is the lower intake we have the 8 electrical connectors to the all the injectors and then the ignition coil we're gonna remove and then we can access the fuel line down below now the this coil has got a small 8 millimeter head bolt here and then one here once you disconnect those you can lift this up a little bit and there's also an electrical connector on each side which also has a little spring bar that you can press and release it from the coil so that's the next thing we're going to do is we're going to pull we're gonna disconnect it all the spark plug wires off the spark plugs on both sides disconnect and remove the two bolts lift this up take the two connectors out and then we can take the ignition coil and a wires out one assembly now on this particular vehicle and actually on some of the original equipment there gray wires the number of the cylinders numbered right on the wires before you start pulling these off make sure yours are numbered if they are and tag them so that when you go to put this back together you do n don't you would end up putting them back in the right sequence alright then what I've done in this trick works really nice your two air conditioning lines in the back this is very bendable very mobile metal it's generally a high-tensile aluminum so we're just gonna actually pop them back just a little bit you can use a piece of wood what this does essentially it gives us just enough clearance to sneak that coil out of there because it is pretty tight pretty tight fit the other way you can do is to unbolt the on lower intake and slide it forward a little bit and slide this out but I'm just used to doing it this way and it works and we disconnected the two wires off the side and we're just gonna lift that right up and out of there let's pull the wires through if you've tagged your wires just be careful not to pull your tags off so just to show you here here's our electrical connector on one side you see the little metal bar across the top you're just gonna press down on that till you hear it click and that pops right off and we'll do the same to the other and we lift the coil right up and out of there what we're gonna do now is then we're gonna disconnect the electrical connections to the injectors and we should be able to move this engine harness right up and out of the way so now we're down to the lower intake which is going to be nothing more than 13 millimeter head bolts all the way down the line we've got two four six and then six on the other side we've popped off the injector wire and you just kind of moved everything out of the way which really opens up the work area gives you plenty of room to work we're going to take all those bolts out break the lower intake loose because they get they stick on pretty well and move it forward maybe about an inch or so so we can reach down in the back and we're going to disconnect the fuel line and we can have that lower intake out we're at the point now we wonder we've got this all unbolted and as I say these stick and they stick pretty good so what we're gonna do is going to take a flat blade screwdriver you can use a hard scraper or whatnot we're going to get down at an angle from here and the reason we don't want to start here or hit into this because we have a water jacket right here on the intake manifold and we definitely don't want to do any cut any gouges or create any depressions where the gaskets gonna have a hard time sealing so we're just going to run this straight down let's do stick a little bit so now we're gonna reach in the back and all we need to do now is just disconnect that fuel line in the back and we can pull this right up and out alright so down the back behind the lower intake you can see the fuel line comes up and then goes to this connector right here and this is going to be similar to that solenoid that we disconnected earlier you get a little push button right here and then there's one identical to it on the other side just reach down squeeze those two tabs and usually works better if you grab the connector push into the tube squeeze the two buttons and it should come right out next step is going to be removing the valve covers now on the valve covers you've got four bolts and they are eight millimeter 12-point so you're gonna need an eight millimeter or a 5/16 12 point socket preferably quarter-inch drive so that'll fit down that little well that they put the bolts into and that's I sort of have a long swivel which works really well and you're gonna just remove the four bolts and give it a tap now on the driver's side you have a small Phillips head screw that holds the dipstick onto the valve cover now once you take the screw out I found that if you use a carburetor cleaner or a varnish remover and just squirt some down on the bottom of this you're gonna let it sit for a minute and you should be able to work that right up and out of the blocks and get it out of your way so we're gonna take the driver's side off first and once we take the two bolts out on the inner and then we're going to take a short stubby Phillips so we'll take that little screw out that's right on the side here and then we'll take the two bottom bolts out and lift this valve cover right out so we'll move the harness out of the way we've taken the four bolts out we took the screw out of the dipstick and we're just gonna lift this up and away throw the old gasket away and you can see in here we've definitely have had some coal and oil mix in there that's what that milky color is so we're on the right track working our way down to the heads and we're gonna see what those gaskets look like we get them apart another good thing to do take a quick look up top see the condition of the rockers see if anything is odd or out of place looks good just needs to be cleaned off and that's the other thing too is if you have the opportunity I don't know what facilities you have but if you have a local engine shop or whatnot it would be good idea even if you don't have the parts rework at least have them hot tanked cleaned off this way all the gasket surfaces are clean the upper surfaces are clean and just generally won't look a lot better - when you get it done so we're gonna move this out of the way and I can say with the dipstick there fortunately this one nice and loose you just grab the little bracket and just work that back and forth and pull that right up and out on the block and we'll move that out of the way next step is now we're going to take the rocker arms off now remember that you're going to have spring pressure on some of these because of the valve and the camp positioning so when you back these four bolts off you have one two three and four you're gonna back them off just a little bit at a time start from the middle and work your way outward and then just back it out if you end up taking one out completely and then the other can cause a twist and I've even seen it where it snapped the rocker shaft and because it created too much tension so we're gonna take these out a little bit at a time we're going to do both sides take the pushrods out now usually it's recommended that you're going to want to put the push rod back in the same position it was in when you go to put the engine back together because not the the way the push rod seats in the rocker they're not going to be identical all the way down the line it's going to be a little bit different wear on it sometimes that can create a little noise in the engine so when you take the push rods out number on my mark them with a piece of tape or whatever so when you're going to put it back together they go back in the same way so we've taken our rockers off we've pulled the push rods mark your oil your push rods you'll probably feel that when you pull them up you yanked a couple of lifters out which is fine because the next step is going to be pulling the intake gasket out and it's just a matter of this bolt right here and then one identical in the back half-inch socket zip those out we're going to take these two top block downs off and then with a scraper we can just work our way around and lift the whole paint assembly right up and out and then at that point we'll be ready to take the heads off so we're just going to zip this off all right so let me just gonna take a scraper and whip this up now a note the two bolts that you took out of this the one in the front in the back has a different thread than any of the other bolts in this engine they went with a 5/16 coarse thread bolt so you want to make sure that you either mark them or keep them separate or just that you understand by looking at them that you're going to have to use those two same bolts in this position you can't use them anywhere else in the edge so just on that note get this scraped up pull this out of here and you'll see a couple of lifters popped out which is fine because we're actually gonna we'll set them back in place if you're going to continue on after removing the heads to strip the block down probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the lifters in which case you want to take the new ones and soak them in a tub oil before you put them back in just to get them filled with oil okay so everything back there and we take our intake and we get rid of this and reuse it so the next step is to remove the heads now you had two approaches that we can do on this you can either disconnect the catalytic converters from the exhaust manifolds and once you take the head bolts out take the head and the manifold out one Paul or you could take the bolts out that attach the manifold to the head remove the head leaving the exhaust manifolds in place probably a matter what's more convenient for you as far as how to access it me and I have a lift I can get to the six bolts underneath is relatively easy if you're doing this on the floor then you may want to remove the exhaust manifold bolts now the exhaust manifold bolts are a twelve millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you have that style socket before you go taking this off now two things to look at before you take the heads off or before we even begin with the head bolts is there's a 13 millimeter head bolt in the back that in some cases early early Bosch will have no ground wire there but they will have the harness you can see that loop right there there was a bolt went through that into the head to hold the harness in place and then straight down in the back of the left side head is the connector for the cranks crank shaft speed sensor and that is going to be kind of inaccessible you're gonna have to take a long screwdriver you need to pop it out of a bracket that just simply a fork a bracket that holds that connector and you get in with a long screwdriver and what I just pop that out of there sometimes you can even be gonna pull just ahead and leave the exhaust you can break it loose move it forward just a little bit will give you a little bit better access but it's in a crazy place it's hard to get at but just so you know it's there so what we're gonna do is now we're gonna grab a breaker bar and five-eighths you 5/8 or 16 millimeter socket and we're gonna break all these head bolts loose and then I'm gonna put this up in the air and take the six bolts off the exhaust manifolds alright so as I said what we're gonna do is we're gonna disconnect there's three nuts on each side that will disconnect the exhaust manifold from the catalytic converters this is the way I prefer to take it off like I said you can do it from up top it's a little bit harder but if you don't have easy access underneath the vehicle then yes it'll be easier for you so what we're gonna do is they're half-inch you got three nuts on each side these actually look relatively clean we're gonna take those three off drop the vehicle back down and then we'll get the bolts out of the heads and then lift the heads right off the engine alright so as I mentioned before we've taken the six bolts out from underneath now just a note a lot of times because they've been down there and a number of these vehicles have been around for a while they will rust in place you may try to heat them up to take them out some of them we snap the stud in the manifold which it did in this case in a couple places if you're in a shop that's fine because when you pull the heads the manifolds are coming with it you'll have easy access to either drilling or blowing out with a torch if you don't have those facilities you can always just take the manifold off the head take it to a shop having new studs in it the studs are available on these so the next step is going to be now that we've got the bolt out of the back the connector for the crank position sensor out of the back now it's just a matter of there's ten head bolts now when you take them out you're going to notice the top three Center are going to be longer than the rest take that in note so when you go to put the new ones in and once we get the bolts out I'll show you a little trick on how to lift that up and out of there alright so when you're taking the head off one thing I wanted to mention there also that there's a braided ground strap right here this runs down in both to the back of the head you have a ten millimeter nut here you only need to take that nut out and you'll take the strap out with the head also this is the time when you're going to use that five ace Universal socket this is the one that you're going to need to get to that back bolt in this back corner otherwise this is really tough to get at and it's nice because the universal design limits the twist on it so you're not fighting against yourself trying to get it out of there so this is the point where you're going to use this tool and you really only need it just for that one bolt the rest of them will come out with it with a straight bolt with a straight socket now we've got all the head bolts out we've got the lower three bolts out we're going to show you a little trick I'm pulling the head because you're probably wondering okay now we've got the manifold in the head together have a fair amount of weight they're really not that bad so what we're going to do is we're going to reinstall the rocker shaft without the push rods because then we don't have to deal against any spring pressure why not and you don't even really even need to put the bolts in all the way just just about half way you have to support the weight without want any damage to any of the threads and I would suggest do all four don't just do the inner to the outer so this way all this should be the weight a little bit better all right so the trick is we're gonna take two shop rags now that we put the rocker back in place we put the bolts in about half way and we'll talk a couple shop rags just underneath the rail all right so we're ready to pull this out and what we've done is we're thinking to shop rags and tuck them underneath the rail so that you have a handle you say we've run these bolts in about half way it doesn't take it's not a lot of weight but it just makes it easier and then what we're gonna do is just lift straight up take the head right now all right so at this point we've got the head out just to show you here was that connector for the crank position sensor that you can see it's kind of in a very hidden spot and you'll notice that prior to that we've got all the wiring up out of the way so now is a good time they give the gasket an inspection to see if this was your culprit you can slowly peel this off you can see we've had a little bit of blow-by between the cylinders this may be the possibility of a cracked piston we'll have to clean that all off before we can make a determination it could just be water stain so we'll move our gasket up and out of the way and then now we're going to do the same thing with the head on the other side get both heads off and then we're going to do an inspection to see if we have a slip sleeve which these engines are notorious for it's an aluminum block with a steel sleeve that is not pinned or fastened down in any way shape or form from the manufacturer so there are times where they can get hot and the sleeves will move a little bit or the block can crack underneath the sleeve which you'll see traces of coolant so we're gonna go through a basic inspection on that and we'll show you how to do that so at the point now we want to do our clean up before reassembly and this is actually as critical as doing prep work for a good paint job you want to make sure you got everything clean you've done your inspection to see exactly what your cause was why you pulled the heads to begin with and what we found was of course the the back of by number eight cylinder the head gasket in this area between this coolant galley and the cylinder was drawn in : you can see how basically it's steam cleans the solder as opposed to the buildup and whatnot you have any other combustion chambers so what we're gonna do is we'll give you a few tips on how to clean this up usually if they're like really loaded up with grease and oil and whatnot and get some engine degreaser and a pressure washer you get it cleaned off you can see this is reach the level where that's acceptable to put back on we've taken the spark plugs out we have all the gasket surfaces out and essentially at this point all you really need to do is get the OL the gasket surface is clean and dry so that the new gaskets have a good surface to adhere to so what I normally like to do is I'll take a small scraper why not now this is aluminum so we're not going to dig we're just gonna basically write the the scraper over the top and just get the heavy stuff off and we'll do that all the way around until we get it all out we're going to keep this at a good low angle so that we're not digging into the aluminum at any point and then you'll do the same thing on your intake gasket area here now remember you have usually your intake port so these are : you definitely don't want to dig into the aluminum there and then on your exhaust side same thing you're gonna scrape off the heavy area and Buzz that off again it's good to have this the spark plugs out because we're gonna clean those holes out as well and then the next step would be you can take a small brass and I recommend brass not steel especially in the aluminum head and we'll just work our way around in the combustion chamber clean off the top of the valve you see it takes it off pretty easily and we'll get around up in there and then what I can do is you can do one of two things if you don't have air power which where I use a little angle head die grinder with the 3m what we referred to as a cookie and we'll end up buzzing all this off now this is basically example but on an aluminum head you would use a blue cookie they actually are made in several different coarseness and the blue is the very fine which is all you need to just basically take the surface down nice and clean you don't have the air power you can actually go out and buy a pair of scotch-brite again you know this is a very fine so this is what you want to use on aluminum and we'll use that to clean up the surface and then we do is if you don't have the the tool you can take it to a small machine shop or why not this is essentially an engine straight edge and this is actually an edge that is accurate to a half a thousandths of an inch and what you'll do is you're gonna place it in different angles on the head and then with a flashlight on the backside you're gonna look to see if any light is visible through the backside this is going to tell you have some warpage and you can tell how much by just sliding a feeler gauge in there until it's nice and snug but this is what we're going to use to basically test all the surfaces on both the head and the block and the preparation for the top of the block is going to be the same as this we're just gonna lightly scrape off the heavy stuff and then take the rest down at a 3m and the other thing you want to watch and the cylinder heads here and here these are your oil galleys that feed oil up to the rocker assemblies so you want to take a pipe cleaner or a small drill bit or whatever and just run it through there and you're going to find is usually gunk built up in there you want to make sure these are clean the same on the block you have these two galleys lined up in the same area same thing you can run a small drill down through it or a pipe cleaner just to get the gunk cleaned out of it dipped in mineral spirits does a really nice job cleaning it out and the mineral spirits do no harm when you eventually start the vehicle up this so little in there mix right in with the oil it doesn't cause a problem okay so essentially that's the rundown on cleaning up the head and I'll show you a finished product just to give you idea how you should look before you put it back together that's right so there you are you see you're basically your combustion chambers we've got all the heavy stuff cleaned out your gasket surface is nice and cleaned there's your intake surface again nice and clean we've put the straightedge on all of this and we determine that the heads are in good shape same thing on the exhaust and we have a nice clean glass you'll notice when you took the exhaust manifolds off some of the areas you're gonna find a double gasket it from the factory so take note of that where those double gaskets were because on some cases you may need to do that because the heads are nice and straight but the exhaust manifolds they're not built to the thousandths of an inch so sometimes one area is a little less pressure here to create a seal so they double gasket to make up for that so just keep that in mind other than that you just head and once we get that one done these heads will be ready to put back on the engine you
Applies To These Models:
Discovery Series II | '99-'04
Range Rover 4.0 (P38) | '95-'02
Range Rover 4.6 (P38) | '95-'02
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