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Spark Plug Service On Range Rovers, Discovery's And Defender 90's
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the spark plugs and ignition wires for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS engine. Using
Spark Plug Kit # ERR3799SKA, which includes 8 spark plugs and a set of ignition wires, it is recommended that this service be performed every 30,000 miles.
Kit #: ERR3799SKA Installing the Spark Plug Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications
Hi this Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to review one of the kits we have available for our service and maintenance academy. This is the spark plug and spark plug wire kit that we mention in this. They call a spark plug kit ERR3799SKA. You'll see this on the sheet that you can download off of our website for the Range Rover 4.0 and 4.6, the P38, from 1995 to 1999, with the GEMS engine. On 99s, on early 1999s have the GEMS engine. Late 99s could be a BOSCH. If you're not sure which engine you have in your vehicle, you can refer to our earlier video that tells you how to determine what you have. Essentially the kit is going to be a full set of spark plug wires, 8 plugs and they're Champion RN11YC4 which is the correct spark plug for the 4.0 and the 4.6. Again, this is all part of our service and maintenance academy. And in a minute we're going to show you how to install this kit. Basically to begin what we're going to do is just simply going to change plug wires and plugs. Now fortunately on these GEMS engines these are relatively easy to get at. Now you'll find that if the plug wires have been on there for a while they're going to be a little tight on those spark plugs. What I like to do is use one of these pliers used for removing these have got rubber coated ends so it's not going to tear the boots open. These will give you a nice firm grip. They're angled so you can get into different positions. And you can essentially just slide this right down over the boot. Grab in as close to the tip of the spark plug as you can. Give a little twist and lift out. Now we'll slide this out of the way. Now I usually find the best way to do this is to do it one at a time. So we just removed number 2 spark plug wire, which is going to be the front right. Just to review, this is a V8, and the way the cylinders are numbered is 2 4 6 and 8 on the passenger side. 1 3 5 and 7 on the driver's side. And essentially you're just going to go one at a time, follow your wire with your fingers, disconnect it from the loom until you get to the point where you're on the coil. Now on the P38 we're a little tight against the firewall, which makes this tool all the more valuable. And we're just going to grab - we'll grab this one here. It's a simple lift and twist. As you get to the spark plug wires that are behind the upper plenum, this tool is fantastic for grabbing these wires and pulling them out. It's just a matter of twist and lift. When you go to put the new cables on, simply just line it back up with the hole it belongs in. Press down. You should feel it drop in and almost feel, not an audible click, but you will feel it lock in. Now in the spark plug, I usually find a nice long extension, you'll need a thirteen sixteenth socket. Preferably some of the spark plug sockets that have the rubber insert which makes the reinstallation alot easier. With a long handle it is much easier on the back. Pop that in place. You'll feel the socket lock in. Now these are aluminum heads on these engines. We generally don't recommend you change the plugs when the engine is hot. If you're going to do a spark plug change, do it when the engine is cold. Give a little pop. These have a pretty fair amount, almost three quarters of an inch of thread on them, so you're going to be twisting for a while until it finally comes out. Now I'll show you one of the reasons why, and it does show up on alot of these 4.0 and 4.6's. Pop the old plug out. And it's good to read the plug while you have it out. Now this engine actually is burning pretty well. We have a nice tan coating on the porcelain. The end of the gap and your electrode isn't burned away. This has actually been a pretty good running engine. But, on the other side, you'll see that white build up on the end of the plug, and if you look in the spark plug wire you'll see the same type. That's basically ozone that's built up arcing. In other words, this wire was not tight on the end of this plug and could cause a misfire. So, you want to read these when you take this apart. And you'll see there's your correct number RN11YCC, the original number. This is the older version of what we have in our kit now. To reinstall you're going to put your new plugs in. When you do, you're going to check the gap on the new plug; it's always good to do that ahead of time. These have a .033 to .038 gap on them. Having the correct gap does make a difference as far as fuel economy and cold starting. To reinsert, put your plug in your socket. You'll feel the end of it. Now you don't need to push because you don't want to close that electrode when you're putting it in. Just simply wiggle - locate the hole. You're going to have a slight angle. They thread in relatively easy. And what's nice about this particular socket design is the back of the socket is knurled, so I can get a grip with my fingers on it. Especially if you have an engine with a lot of oil coating on it this makes it alot easier. And you spin it until you feel it just starting to snug in. Attach your ratchet and your extension. Now you'll feel the spark plug seat. Give a look at what the angle of your ratchet is, give an eighth of a turn, and we're in. Again, you don't want to over tighten - these are aluminum heads. If you strip the heads out of these then you just made the job much bigger for yourself. That's essentially it. One last tip that I'll show you that I've always liked on these. Take a little silicone spray. When you go insert the new plug wires, give a little shot of silicone. It's not conductive but what it will do is make it a lot easier when you go install the plug wire to lock on to the plug. It will slide right on, lock in and the silicone will actually keep that area dry of moisture. Put your wire back in your looms. And you're going to do the same steps all the way around. And you may find that when you do the driver's side, if you take that intake boot, by removing the 2 clamps, it will make easier access to the plugs. So again, there's your spark plug tune up kit. It will make a general improvement on your fuel economy and on your performance. Generally these are recommended every, as our sheet says, every 30,000 miles. So again, this is Doug at Atlantic British. When you're ready to order your spark plug and wire set, just talk to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
Applies To These Models:
Discovery I | '94-'99
Range Rover 4.0 (P38) | '95-'02
Range Rover 4.6 (P38) | '95-'02
Defender 90 | '94-'97
This video has been viewed: 1526 times
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