Rover Resources Center
Replace Rear Sway Bar Bushings On Range Rover Sport
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains what to listen for when the rear sway bar bushings on a 2006 - 2009 Range Rover Sport go bad. Doug then shows you how to replace of these bushings using
part # RVU000022. This replacement service is also valid on the Range Rover Sport Supercharged and Full Size, 2006 - 2009, along with the LR3, 2005 - 2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to our live chat. Part #:RVU000022 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement Demonstrated on 2008 Range Rover Sport with Directional Stability ControlHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a component that frequently fails on the Sports and the LR3s from 2006 to 2009. And that's the sway bar bushings. Believe it or not they do take a lot of stress and over a period of time they'll dry out, they'll shrink and if you're in an area where it is heavily salted in the winter time, it's going to dry them out even faster. And one of the symptoms is usually either a bumping or a knocking from the back of the vehicle on slow speed bumps. And you'll hear it vibrate all up and down through the frame. What happens is a lot of guys will automatically go to the sway bar links there at the end of the sway bars, and they really don't give much consideration to the bushings, that are sort of hidden in here. And essentially this is what they look like. It's nothing more than wraps around the sway bar. Now, the vehicle that we have here is a 2008 Sport, with directional stability control, which is essentially power assisted sway bars. They have a hydraulic ram in them, which creates even more stress on the bushings, so don't be surprised, maybe at only 4 or 5 years old that these bushings are all ready creating noise, need to be replaced. Now the repair is relatively easy. It's only 4 bolts. But it's just where they are hidden they can be hard to get at. So it usually will require some out of the ordinary tools to get to, but with those tools, it makes this job very, very easy. And we're going to show you how to do that. I'm going to talk about the 2 wrenches that I find are probably handiest at trying to do this. And one they call an offset box wrench. 12 point works better than 6, only because with a 12 point you don't have to go as far a swing to be able to grab onto the bolt for the next turn. So 12 point works pretty well. Plus with the offset it gets you clear of some of the minor obstructions in there. And you can use this to break it loose. Once you've got the bolt loose, then usually switch over to a ratcheting box wrench. And I like the length because of the leverage. A shorter one will work fine after you've broken the bolt loose, but I like the additional leverage. Plus in this particular model, on the other end of it I do have a box wrench that does have a slight offset which will grab onto the bolt. The only thing you need to be concerned with, is that when the bolts get very close to the frame, because there is no reversing lever, you want to make sure that you can get that wrench out between the top of the bolt and the body of the vehicle so that you can finish taking the bolt out. So always keep that in mind, make sure you leave yourself a space, and then once you reach that point you can either get in there with a regular open end wrench or whatever and take it out the last several threads and the bolt will be out. So that's essential it. So we're just going to take those 2 bolts out using these 2 wrenches and then we'll show you the actual installation of the bushing. All right. So before we take this apart, I want to give you a little more detailed idea of what we are dealing with. And essentially what we have is you see this round object right here, this is the bushing or the bracket that actually holds the bushing down. You have a bolt towards the rear right here. And then you have another bolt in the front right there. 13 millimeter heads and they're somewhat long because this is designed to hold this down. This takes a lot of stress. Now again as I've mentioned, this has the directional stability control, so this is essentially power assisted sway bars, so they can create a lot of stress, so the bolts are a good inch long. So again, you want to make sure that you take your wrench out of there before you bring that bolt up too high so that you can get the wrench out and then get the remainder of the volt out. So we're going to take these 2 off and then we'll show you how to lift the bracket up and out of there and remove the bushing. All right, so, we worked the 2 bolts out, and you can see that we've got the sway bar loose now. And we have our gentle persuader. And we just get up underneath the ears of the bracket, front and back, and we're going to lift it right up and off of that bushing. Angle that towards the back so we can clear that. And it will just squeeze off between the body and the bracket. And there's your mounting bracket right there. Now the bushing has a split in it so you can remove it without having to disassemble the sway bar. Normally the split is going to face towards the back of the vehicle. Now this gets a little touchy because this bushing is old and dried out so they don't come off easy and you need the pry bar to get inside that split. And try and lift that out of there. Here's the old bushing as it is. You can see the wear and tear on the outside edges as opposed to the new one. And if you look very closely you can see you have a little bit smaller diameter on the new one versus the old one. So as I said, here's your split and what we're going to do is reinstall this sitting in this direction with the split facing the back of the vehicle, just the way it was as original equipment. Then we slide that bracket back over the top of it. And run the 2 bolts back in, and we're essentially installed. Got it installed. Now when you go to put the 2 bolts back in, you do have a little bit of play on that bushing and the bracket. You can move it in and out about half an inch. So the easiest I have found is just to put the bracket on partially over the bushing, leaving a small gap so you can see where your threaded hole is for your bolt. Run the bolt through. Line them up, then you can thread them in by hand. Yeah, you can get your hand in there, but it takes a little patience. And then you'll feel the bracket seat over the top of the bushing. Now if you look at the old bushing, you'll see that there is an indentation here, and there's a matching indentation on the bracket so that it centers the bracket on the bushing. And you'll feel it, it won't really go on until it centers itself. So you can move that bushing and bracket in and out just a little to get those bolt holes lined up. And then again once you get started, run them in with a wrench, tighten them up good, and then go to the other side and do the exact same thing on the other side and you've got your new bushings in place. So when you're ready to changeover the rear sway bar bushings on any of the Land Rover vehicles, in this case the Sport, you can just call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Applies To These Models:
Range Rover Sport | '06-'09
Range Rover Sport Supercharged | '06-'09
Range Rover Sport | '10-'13
Range Rover Sport Supercharged | '10-'13
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