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Here is the step-by-step process in the removal and installation of the transmission filter conversion kit on a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
kit # ATFCK, this is an easy change filter conversion kit for all Rovers using ZF 6HP Automatic Transmission. This includes the LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover L322 models. Installing the original factory filter change kit is a very lengthy process. The original sump and filter are normally one piece and fitting involves jacking the engine up and unbolting the mounts, plus, the removal of the exhaust. This new kit has a two-part filter and pan design, which makes installation much easier. Doug will also address replacement of the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve part number TZV500010G which has a tendency to leak. It is recommended that this sleeve be replaced while you have the pan down. This service is recommended to be performed every 50,000 to 70,000 miles to ensure optimum performance. Kit #: ATFCK Install the Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion Kit on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a new and innovative product, definitely a labor saving item. This is a transmission kit for the Sports and the LR3s with the 4.4 V8. And what they've done is they've gotten away from the 1 piece pan and filter set up which up to this point, when you went to change over the filter in your transmission you had to remove one of the catalytic converters, the crossmember. You had to support the transfer case. And in some cases we had to take one bolt out of the right side motor mount and we had to jack the engine up to get that out of there. So because of input from alot of Land Rover owners, what they've done is come up with a kit so we have a separate filter and pan so that we can actually install this without taking all this extra out of the vehicle. And what it essentially does is, and those of you who aren't familiar with the original design you have a plastic pan similar to this with a filter in it. The filter is part of the pan with this stem. This stem is what the killer is because you have a cross member. It's only about an inch underneath this pan. So to get these out, you've got to be able to jack the whole drive line up at one point to clear this piece out of here. But now you can just drop the original pan. Cut the old tube off with a hacksaw. Pull that out once we get the pan out of the way. You take the new filter. You pop the filter up in place. And then the pan slides in. And with the kit you get the new filter. The new O ring. New set of bolts. And a metal pan instead of plastic. It's overall going to be a better situation. It also makes it alot easier for do it yourselfers, as opposed to having to bring it to a shop because of all the extra assembly and disassembly. This has been a long time coming. This is a great product. What I'm going to do then is we're going to show you initially how to install it and how we're going to drain it and how we're going to change this over without having to take all that extra pieces out of the vehicle.There we are. So we've reached the point where we've filled this up. We've got 1 drip per second. We capped, put the plug back in. Be very careful because that catalytic converter is going to be very hot. You may want to invest in a set of what they call, actually they are available, kevlar gloves. Just something to keep you from burning your hand on that catalytic converter. Tighten the plug down. Next step is obviously let it run. Let it sit for a minute. You want to check for any leaks around the gasket. Once you're confident that you have no leaks then basically we're done. So at this point now we're going to let it cool down just a little bit. And then we can reinstall the bracket. That supports the heat shield. Put the heat shield back on. And reinstall the front dash plates. So all that we did in the beginning you're just going to reinstall just the way you took it off. Very easy. So, when you're ready to do the transmission service on your LR3 or your Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, or you can click on this link or if you wish to subscribe to our YouTube channel you can click on this link and that will take you to that. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service using our
Kit # TRANSM600SKB on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38, with 4-speed ZF transmission; and should be performed every 30,000 miles. Kit#:TRANSM600SKB Installing Transmission Filter and Service Kit On Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004, 8 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance that a lot of people neglect on their vehicles, and that's automatic transmission service. On the Land Rover Discovery's, especially Discovery 2, your Range Rover P38, basically any vehicle across the board, over a period of time the fluid breaks down, the filter becomes restricted, and you end up losing not only shift performance, it can affect your fuel economy and it basically affects the overall drivability of the vehicle. So what we've done is put a kit together. And this is for the 4 speed ZF that was used in the Discovery 2s and the P38s. This will give you enough fluid, a new gasket, a filter, new O rings and the retainer collars for the pan and a drain plug with a new seal. And this is something you actually could do in your driveway. It's actually a relatively easy pan to drop. There's only 6 bolts. There's a drain plug. And just doing the service could do a world of good on your vehicle. So what we're going to do is show you how to install this. And basically show you how relatively easy it is to do a transmission service on this particular vehicle. We're going to do this on a 1999 Discovery 2. This will be very similar to any of the other vehicles, so follow along, I'll show you how to do it. So before we get started what I'm going to do is give you a basic layout of what you'll be getting into. We have a drain plug on the bottom. We're going to take that out first, let the system drain out. And then the only thing you have holding the pan in are 6 small bolts. You have 1 in each corner and then on each side there's 1 in the middle. Now the way they have this configured, they have a lip on the pan that goes all the way around. And on that lip is held in place by these little, I guess you could call them a block or a spacer or whatever you want to call it. But the bolt runs through it. As you can see there. Now when they've been up in place for about 17 years as in this case, they have a tendency to lock themselves in. So I would suggest is if you're a do it yourselfer, and you plan on doing this, you may want to start a week ahead of time and just shoot those bolts down about every other day with penetrating oil let the stuff work its way in. If you're a shop, definitely you still want to get in there and give them a little shock treatment, shoot them up with penetrating oil. You can take a straight punch with a small hammer and just give a wrap. Or if you have access to compressed air, with an air hammer just a quick shot right at the end of each bolt. Hopefully to break the corrosion loose. So that's essentially what you got. Be very careful, these bolts are very susceptible to breaking. It's a very small bolt that run into an aluminum housing. And when they are there for a while they will lock themselves in place. And you won't even know it. You'll spin it out and feel like the bolts turning. It just snaps right off. So if that's the case then you are going to be getting into a repair. So be very careful taking them off. Anyway, so, let's get started. We're going to take this apart. Drop this pan. And get into the filter change. So, we're at the point now, we've run it through the gears. We let our drip down to the pint where we knew we had a good level. Install the new plug. And at this point we're essentially done. We've done a transmission service. So with that new filter in place, like I said, it helps with fuel economy. It definitely adds to the life of the transmission. The fluid does break down after a while. And overall it's just going to let this transmission last a lot longer and perform better. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your D2 or your P38 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to diagnose, access and replace Transmission Valve Body Harness with Temperature Sensor on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322) with BMW engine and ZF 5-speed transmission. The warning light on the instrument cluster will indicate: "Transmission Fluid Temperature Excessive." The vehicle also goes into Limp Mode--which is 3rd gear to cool the transmission down so you can get to a shop for repair. In actuality, the fault isn't the transmission, but the temperature sensor, which is built into the wiring harness, that lives in the transmission. To confirm this is the repair you need to make, your diagnostics tool will display "Gearbox Oil Temperature Sensor Fault." This replacement repair will resolve the problem. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part #: YMD001500G Diagnostics and Replacement of Transmission Valve Body Harness With Temperature Sensor on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322)Choosing The Right Diagnostic System for Your Land Rover A Comparison of 3 Diagnostic Systems, 2003 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a concern that shows up now and then on these 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rovers. This is the L322 with the BMW engine and the ZF 5 speed transmission. And what occurs is you'll be going down the road and you'll suddenly get a warning on your instrument cluster stating transmission fluid temperature excessive. Also what will happen is the vehicle will go into Limp In mode, and all you'll have is 3rd gear. And that's essentially there to help cool your transmission down and to get you where you want to go. When in actuality there isn't a fault in the transmission, but it's a fault in the little temperature sensor that's built into the wiring harness inside the transmission. Now it is a replaceable harness. And what we're going to do is, next step we're going to show you basically how you can diagnose it using any one of the little Land Rover diagnostic tools that we have. And essentially what it breaks down to is this little harness that is installed internally in the transmission, you do have to drop the oil pan to get to it. So what I would recommend is, obviously if you're going to be changing this, you're also going to need 5 quarts of ZF fluid, because you're going to have to top the system back off when you put the pan back on. So, anyway, so what we're going to do is we're going to plug in the I930. We're going to show you the code that will probably, or should occur when you do a diagnostic. And then a way of looking just to double check that it is in fact the sensor that failed and not an internal issue causing high temperature. Be careful working around it. Not only you don't want to touch it, you don't want to hit the hose of your tool against that tool because it will melt right through it. So as I showed you, we've basically replaced the harness. We've topped off all the new fluid. We capped everything up. We've checked for leaks. And then we'll do a quick road test. We want to make sure to make sure that we've gotten any air that may have gotten into the transmission is out of it before it goes back to your customer or you take it out for a ride. So when that little warning light pops up and says that you have a gear box oil temperature overheating and you can verify it with a diagnostic tool, we've shown you how to replace it. When you're ready to do so, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service (
using kit # TRANSM300SKA) on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and pan, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in the service kit, along with a replacement automatic transmission valve sleeve, which is prone to leaking. This service should be performed every 60,000 miles. Please Note: While this Transmission Service Kit (TRANSM300SKA) is the same for Range Rover Sport models, the process for this service differs from Range Rover Full SIze. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: TRANSM300SKA Performing Transmission Service On Range Rover Full Size Supercharged 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on another one of our maintenance kits that we have available. This one in particular is for a 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover. Known as the L322. And this will apply to both the Supercharged 4.2 and the 4.4 naturally aspirated. And this is the transmission service kit that we have available. And this is all part of our maintenance and repair academy that you can find on our website. Not only that, but you can copy and download our sheet that gives you all the maintenance items that we recommend for that vehicle. Now, on the transmission kit, which is listed down here in the bottom left corner, is TRANSM300SKA. It's recommended every 60,000 miles or every 10 years. Just like any other petroleum based fluid, transmission fluid will break down over a period of time. So it's definitely a good idea to change them over on a regular basis. And what you'll get with the kit is the ZF Lifeguard transmission. This is the fluid, this is the recommended fluid for this vehicle. You really dont want to use many substitutes. The ZFs are very particular about what type of fluid they use and how well they perform. You'll also get a new pan. And the reason for that is because the pan incorporates the filter. You'll see the filter built right into the base of the pan. Your pick up tube. And it will also give you the 2 new magnets that you'll find in the original when you drop it down. Now these magnets are here to pick up any composite or any wear material that you're going to get from the transmission just simply due to normal wear. And it's a good idea not to have it floating through the system. The magnets will pick that up and hold that until you're ready to do your changeover. Now, this pan comes in a large bag in the box. And you'll find in the bag the new O ring for the pick up tube. Now I just want to make sure I make note on that because you may pull this out initially. This is kind of small, you don't really see it right off that bat. So make sure you look in your bag to get your O ring. So, that's essentially the kit that you're going to get. Definitely a highly recommended maintenance item to do on your vehicle. Not that hard to do. Matter of fact what we're going to do now is we have a 2008 Supercharged Range Rover right here and we're going to run through the process of how to change over the transmission fluid and filter in your vehicle.Once you've reached that point, put your plug back in, make sure it's fully seated. Wipe off any excess that you got on the exhaust or on the frame. You don't need any dripping in the driveway. And then you're done. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your L322 Full Size, this is 2006 to 2009. And the same procedure applies to whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the transmission service (using
service kit # TRANSM800SKA) on a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. In this video, Doug will show you how to access drain and fill points, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service should be performed every 60,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: TRANSM800SKA Performing Transmission Service On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specification Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on one of our maintenance kits that we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander, part of our maintenance and repair academy that you'll find on our website. And on our website you can also download and print this sheet which gives you all the other maintenance functions for your vehicle. In this case we're going to talk about the transmission service kit. Now, in the case of the Freelander, there is no filter or replaceable filter in that transmission. And we're just simply going to do a drain and fill, which can still do wonders for these systems. Just like any petroleum based fluid, transmission fluid can break down. It's designed to also hold any contaminants and whatnot that get into the system. You will have condensation, you'll have some dust and a little bit of debris from wear parts from the transmission usage. So you want to change this on a regular basis. Now, in this case, it's recommended every 60,000 miles. It's a very good idea to do. And it's very easy to do. And what you'll be getting with the kit is enough transmission fluid to refill the system. Specifications calls for 4 liters. We're going to give you 5 bottles because these bottles are based on quarts. And a quart is .946 liters so you will come up, if we just give you 4 bottles, you'll come up a little short. So we give you 5 so you get the recommended amount. You're also going to get a new drain plug and a new gasket. This also has the magnet built into it. And a new fill plug up top. So, very easy to do. Very easy to access. And what we're going to do now is we're going to go through this vehicle and we're to show you the basics and some tips on how to change your transmission fluid. All right, so, we have a Freelander up in the air. As you can see, the drain plug has easy access. It's a 15/16th plug. And what I would suggest is use a half inch ratchet on it which will give you a little bit more leverage. It will come out easier. Don't have to worry about saving the plug - you get a new one with the kit. And it's just a matter of drain and refill. There is no filter to change on these. As you can see there's no belly pan like the majority of your other transmissions. And the front - back pans are rather difficult to change, which you really dont need to do any way. So essentially this is just a drain and refill. So you're going to completely drain the transmission. Put your plug back in. And the next step is we lower it down and we show you how to do the refill. All right, so, now that we've drained this completely we're going to access our fill plug, which is down below these hoses, you'll see a little black plug right next to your wiring harness. Grab underneath and pull. You'll see that's what it looks like. And you've seen one similar. You'll be getting a new one with the kit. A little more softer and flexible than this one. And, you're going to notice that the hole is relatively small. You may need to either modify your funnel. Now you're going to find that probably at about the 2 and a half to 3 quart it will seem like the transmissions is full. Hop in the vehicle. Start it up. Put your plug on first. And then go from drive to reverse. Back up to drive. Put it back in park. Let it run for a minute. What that will do is circulate some of the new fluid back into the system. Shut it down. Put in the remainder. Specifications call for 4 liters after a drain. So 4 liters on a refill. The system actually holds about 8 and a half. But, when draining it you don't get everything out of the torque converter. So, that's basically all it takes to do a transmission service on your Freelander. Relatively easy. Can be done out in the driveway. Fairly inexpensive. No nuts and bolts to deal with because there's no filter. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your Freelander, just contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the transmission service (using
kit # TRANSM200SKA) on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: TRANSM200SKA Performing Transmission Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on the transmission fluid and filter change kit that we have available through our maintenance and repair academy for the 2003 to 2005 ZF 5 speed used in the L322 Full Size Range Rover. Now this is only for 2003 to 2005, which was a 5 speed, and it does require a regular change of fluid. Now we have recommended 75,000 miles change the fluid over. If you put your vehicle through harder service, do a lot of towing, or if you live in an excessively hilly area, where you're constantly either climbing or descending, you might want to do on a more regular basis. Maybe closer to 60,000. But the kit which you'll see here, which is on a sheet that is downloadable and printable from our website online, is the transmission service kit TRANSM200SKA. And you'll see that it comes with 5 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, which is the best fluid to use in these transmissions. A new filter. New pan gasket. Transmission filter retaining screws which are these 2 small screws here. A new oil pan gasket and a drain plug. You'll see you have everything shown here. Now this is your, here's your new O ring for your filter. And the 5 quarts should be more than enough to top the system back off and get it to the proper level, along with a new plug, because you'll see a seal built into the back of the plug. So when you take the original one out, you want to check around the hole, make sure that that seal didn't stick in place, it will interfere with this one. And you always want a new seal when you put the plugs on. So, this is our transmission kit we have available. And in a minute we're going to raise this vehicle and we'll give you some tips on how you can do the filter and fluid changeover on your Full Size Range Rover. So now you've seen the kit. And we're going to give you a basic rundown on how to do a transmission service on your L322. Essentially your pan is very easy access. There's no shields. There's no cross bars. It's right out in the open. What you have is approximately 21 small bolts that hold this pan in all the way around. You're going to need a 25 torx drive to remove them. I usually recommend your best bet is to do it on, especially on these, do these with a 3/8ths drive which will give you a little bit more torque and be able to crack them loose easier. You'll find some of them might be kind of snug and you almost feel like you're going to break it. If it is really tight because you basically have a steel bolt in the aluminum hosing which is the case of the transmission, you take a small punch and put it right on the face of the bolt and wrap it a few times with a hammer and normally that will break them loose enough where you can get them to back out. Now before you even take those bolts out, you have a drain plug right here on the transmission pan. You'll need a number, an 8 millimeter allen or a 5 / 16th. Either one will work. Pull the plug. Drain it out. This way you won't end up with a large mess once you do take the other 21 bolts out to drop the pan. Once the pan is out, you'll simply be looking at the bottom of the filter. And as you saw with the initial picture with the kit, you have 2 small bolts that hold the filter in place. They sit at an angle, if you take the 2 bolts out make sure you have a good size pan because even when you drop that filter some fluid is going to splash out and you really don't need to make a mess on the driveway floor. So, once you have that down, you're going to take the new filter, make sure you put the new O ring on the inlet. Take the 2 new bolts. Set it right back up in place. Snug the bolts in. They don't have to be super tight. Probably generally not more than about 15 foot pounds of torque. You get a new gasket. You clean the old gasket off the pan and off the surface of the transmission. And if it makes it a little bit easier, there's a number of different sprays and adhesives out there, like called a Hi Tack or a Permatex, which you can spray on the surface of the gasket. Let it get tacky and then you can apply it to the pan. This way it will hold it in place as your setting the pan up. Run a couple bolts in to get things started. Run the rest of your bolts in. Snug them up nice and tight. Reinstall your drain plug. And then, right here, just above my finger, is going to be your refill. That's also an 8 millimeter. Now it's going to be really tight the 1st time you go to crack it loose. So I would probably recommend use breaker bar with a little bit of length and a good short socket so you don't snap the socket apart. Then, using a suction gun, or even now they have some small 12 volt motorizes pumps that you can run the fluid in, top this off until you have fluid running out of the hole. Then you're going to start your vehicle. You're going to leave it in park. Let it run until it warms up. And then you are going to take that plug back out and then fill it until you get a basically a drip about once every second. And that's your fluid level. So, it's basically all you need to do a transmission service on your L322. Now this is the 5 speed that was used from 2003 to 2005. And give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the process involved in replacing the transmission filter for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
money-saving kit # TRANSM100SKA, which comes with 6 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, transmission filter with gasket and pan, filter plug,and an automatic transmission valve sleeve, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Please Note: While part number LR007474, is used on Range Rover Full Size models, the process for this service differs from LR3 to Range Rover Full Size. Please note that there are parts mentioned in the video not included in the kit that you may want to replace for the service, those part #s are exhaust gasket #WCM100460L and # TYP500050 pan bolts (21 required). Kit # TRANSM100SKA: Performing Transmission Service On LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to touch base on the transmission service and filter kit in our repair and maintenance academy program. And on that program you can go on our website and you can download this sheet which will also give you all the other recommended services, but in this case we're looking at the transmission filter service kit, part number TRANSM100SKA. This is a service that we recommend every 90,000 miles. Now if you tow or if you live in an area with a lot of hills or a lot of climbing then I would suggest you do this on a more often basis. But for normal driving conditions every 90,000 is the recommended. And what you are going to get with the kit is a new pan assembly with the gasket, because on these ZF transmission the pan is integral with the filter, so to change the filter you need to change the whole pan. Comes with a new gaskets, comes with new magnets to maintain and hold any material that might be floating around in there. You have a new fill plug which we will show you further on how to do the service on this and where your fill plug is located. And 6 quarts of recommended fluid for the ZF. Do not mix Dexron or any other transmission fluid with these transmissions. They require a specific transmission fluid, you really need to use that so you don't give yourself problems down the line. So you're going to be using anywhere from 5 to 6 quarts, so we give you 6 quarts for your refill. And in a minute what we'll do is show the basics on how to do your transmission service.And that basically is the full procedure for refilling. Cap it off once it reaches the drip. Take it for a ride. Make sure it is shifting properly. Make sure any air has been worked out of the system. And you should be good to go. So when you're ready to do your transmission service, or have it done, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service on a 1997 Defender 90. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is all included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38 and Range Rover Classic. Service should be performed every 30,000 miles.
Kit # TRANSM600SKA Performing Transmission Service on Defender 90 1997, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), Discovery I, or Range Rover ClassicHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on the transmission maintenance kit that we will be promoting on our maintenance and service program. Now this will be for the 4 speed transmission, the automatic transmission, in the Discovery 1, Discovery 2, late Classics and the P38. Transmission is a 4 speed automatic which is the 4HP24. And in this kit you'll basically have everything you need to do a transmission service. You'll be getting a new gasket for the pan, 2 new O rings, the filter itself, new bolts and holding shoulders for replacing the pan and 6 quarts of ATF3 which would work on all that transmission range across all the vehicles that I've mentioned. What we're going to do then is we're now going to show you how to do your own transmission service on this vehicle. Alright, so, we put in just about 6 and 3/4 quarts. Our level right now with the vehicle running at temperature up is just above the dot. That will drop down a little bit as the system loses the small amount of air that's left in there. As run it through drive and reverse. So our level will be just about where it should be. So, there you have it. Now this is an important maintenance to do on your vehicle. The transmission can be a very expensive repair if it should go. You can definitely lengthen its life by doing these regular services. And when you're ready to do so you can contact any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform an engine & transmission adaption reset on a 1999-2004 Land Rover Discovery Series II, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed.
iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. How To Use the iLAND App Engine and Transmission Adaption Reset Demonstrated on the Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about adaptions. Or better yet, clearing adaptions. What adaptions are is the control module for the engine and the control module for the transmission. As you drive the vehicle, will adapt to changes in the sensors, changes in your driving habits and essentially adapts to keep the vehicle within a certain efficiency level. So what happens is, should you develop a fault, like a mass airflow sensor or a transmission shift fault or anything else that will affect the drivability of the vehicle. After you've done the repair you need to clear the adaptions. Now I'll just quickly explain in the case of a mass airflow sensor, mass airflow sensor has deteriorated, so what happens is the system has adapted and constantly adapted until it's reached a certain limit it can no longer adapt. And you basically get your fault code. And you have to do a repair. You put the new airflow sensor in it, and what happens now is that's reading correctly, but your still running off the old adaptions and the cars going to run worse than it did before you did the repair, and you're going to think that's not the problem. What you need to do, any time you change O2 sensors, throttle body, throttle position, mass airflow sensor, you should always clear adaptions. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to do that with the new iLAND and how easy it is to do. And it's also very important so keep watching. Alright, so you now the basics. You're going to plug your iLAND in. You have your dongle that you plug into the diagnostic. You go through the basics and then you're going to go to this screen. Now on this screen you'll notice all the vehicles, all the blocks, are in the red. This is because this is the Pro series and we have access to all these different vehicles. If you've purchased an iLAND, you can get for just 1 design vehicle, like in this case say Discovery, it will be just red block on Discovery, the rest will be in white. So we're going to pick our Discovery, We'll go through what the call garage disclaimers. It's telling me we're in the current version, otherwise it would list another version underneath and we would load that in just so we know that we have the latest and the greatest. We'll hit confirm. And it's going to connect with the Bluetooth. And just give it a few minutes or a few seconds actually. It doesn't take that long. Here's our choices. We can go to any one of these Discovery versions. We're in a 1999 Discovery 2. And we'll go to engine. Now essentially all the Discovery 2s are going to be BOSCH motronic. No other system. That's basically the only petrol system they used on these with the 4.0 and later on the 4.6. So we now the ignition is on. The keys on, we can see our lights. Now you've got this listing of all the capabilities. But we're going to go down to vehicle maintenance. Gives you a little warning as far as looking at who should be working on the vehicle. Now here we have reset adaptions. This is very easy where we're going to hit that. It's going to sort of explain what adaptions are. And under what conditions you should be doing this under. Like say basically fuel injector. Lambda sensor, which is essentially O2 sensor. Fuel pump, mass airflow sensor, intake manifold leak or air leak repair. All that can affect adaptions. So then it's going to ask you at the bottom, basically confirm do you wish to reset ECM adaptions. So we're just going to do that. And they've been reset. Just that quickly, just that easy. But now what it has done it has reset all of the initial setting for the ECM back to original factory settings. So we hit OK. And we're all done with that. Then we can back up. And it's usually best that if you do one you should always do the other. It's reasonably easy to do. Just get this to back up here. Maybe it just doesn't like that finger. There we go. So we're back to part of our menu. We're going to go back one more. Ok. So now these are all the different modules we have access to. So we're going to go to auto gear box. Essentially transmission. Ignition is still on. It's going to reconnect. Ok. So now we've connected with the transmission control module. We'll go to vehicle maintenance. We hit Ok. And there right on top is reset adaptions. And we'll hit that. Then again it's going to go through and explain why you would do this and under what conditions. And then at the bottom of course there's your confirmation do you wish to reset ECU adaptions. We'll hit yes. And there you go. Adaptions have been reset successfully. So now we've done both engine and transmission, it didn't even take 5 minutes. So now we'll back up. We'll get back to the main menu. And then of course when you go to do this it will say really quit. We're going to back out of that. And at this point it is a reminder make sure you don't leave the dongle plugged into the diagnostic plug. And we'll hit Ok because we pulled it out. And that's it. That's basically a very easy thing to do. Especially with the iLAND and it's very important to do as you can see under certain repair conditions so that you know when you're done and you restart your vehicle it's going to run right. So, if you're going to get into repairs on your Discovery 2, again that's 1999 to 2004, and you find you need a tool that's going to be able to do the reset for adaptions just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can order your iLAND online at this link. And if you liked our how to video, and would like to see more you can go to our YouTube channel and subscribe and view all our different videos that we've done to help you keep your Land Rover in good order. So thank you for watching. And Rover on.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the
iLAND Diagnostic App to perform a Engine & Transmission Adaption Reset on a 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. How To Use the iLAND App Engine & Transmission Adaption Reset For All Late Model Rover Vehicles - Demonstrated on the Range Rover Sport. Hi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going to do is cover one of the functions of the iLAND. And one is to be able to clear a reset engine adaptions and transmission adaptions on any of the 2006 to 2009 LR3, Sport, Full Size. This will also work on 2010 to 2015. We also have some other videos showing some of the early models like Discovery and whatnot. So we're just going to show you the function on the Sport. This is a 2006 Sport Supercharged. So we have our iphone and we have our dongle. And what we're going to do is plug our dongle in and get this set up show you how to access that screen. So now we have the dongle plugged in. We're going to look for our blue LED just to make sure it is powered up. We grab our iphone or if you use an ipad. We can press home. Going to open that up. Now just a note, on Android you only have one icon for iLAND. On the iphone or ipad or iOS system you're going to have two icons. One is your standard iLAND icon and the other has a blue dot. The one with the blue dot contains all the software for the diagnostic, but you're not going to use that when you're going through your functions. You're going to go to that. Now it will put you on this screen. You'll notice all of them are in red. This is because this is the Pro version. If you have your's programmed for a single model vehicles, then that's the only one that's going to be lit. So we're in a 2006 Range Rover. And we go through the garage disclaimers. Now this is going to go through a little quick check just to see what's going on. We can see we have file downloaded. Dongle's connected. And it has the latest version of the software. So we'll connect via Bluetooth. This is a 2006. And a Supercharged Petrol V8. And again it wants to make sure ignition key is on. Then we're going to go to system selection. And we're going to go to PCM, powertrain control module. Now we have special function, version, data, clear memory and read DTC. We're going to go to special function. Right at the very top is what we're looking for. Adaption clear. Now what that does essentially is puts this particular module back into it's original manufacturer's specs. This is normally used if you're going to change a mass air flow sensor, an O2 sensor. Anything that's there to regulate and adjust the system to keep the vehicle within its emissions standards. So with the adaption clear, you're going to do this after replacing any of those components. And you're just going to hit that. Again, making sure you have ignition switch on. Basically key on with the lights, does not have to be running. And there it is. You're all cleared out. So we'll hit okay. Turn the switch off. Basically just going to follow the instructions on this thing. It's going to tell you exactly what you need to do. And again off. And it says please run diagnostic trouble code monitor. So we're going to hit okay. We can back that up with your little arrow. We're going to go to read DTCs. No fault codes. So that's a good thing. So we'll hit cancel to back out. Now what we're going to do is we're going to back this out and go back to system select. So we can access transmission. We want to make sure key is on. Transmission control module. And again special function and adaption clear. Now it's a good idea that when you do an adaption clear on the PCM you should do it as well on the transmission. We're going to hit that. Automatically just sets right up. Select park. We're in park. Set ignition switch to on, which we have. And adaption clear is completed. And we just follow the instructions. Tells you turn the switch off. And again you notice we're just going to the position where it just turns all the lights on the dash on. We're not starting the vehicle. And then off again. And this just basically sets everything now at this point. So again it's telling you that it's set. And we're going to go back in and just check for any fault codes that may have been activated. Again want to make sure the key is on. And no fault codes. So we're in good shape. So that's pretty much all you need to do to an adaption clear on both your PCM and your transmission control module. So if you wish to purchase the iLAND so that you can do this and many other functions on your Land Rover just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like you can click on this link and that will put you on so you can order online. And if you like our how to videos and would like to see more you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and see more of these videos that will help you keep your Land Rover up to date. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
The main seal on a 4.0 or 4.6 V8 engine is not the only point where an oil leak can occur. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out other possible sources of a rear engine oil leak for Land Rover 4.0/4.6 V8 engine.
Possible Sources of a Rear Engine Oil Leak For 4.0/4.6 V8 EngineHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And we're going to do this little video for a tech tip because we all know these 4.0 and 4.6 engines do have a tendency to leak oil out the back. And in many cases everybody immediately says it's the rear main seal, when there actually are several points that could be leaking. So I just kind of wanted to give you the visual to give you an idea of what the possibilities are. For one, yes, there's your rear main crank seal right there. And as you know, you have to remove the transmission to be able to access it and remove it. Around it you have the rear main block. Which has what they call the crucifix seals in them, which is why you see the little dab of RTV. Sometimes you'll see weeping out through these 2 holes. And that's telling you it's the crucifix seal that leaking, not the rear main. Directly above it you have the camshaft plug. Which actually in the case of this particular engine was leaking right here out of the bottom of the cam plug. Now that's all been cleaned off, but we wanted to show you the location. So this can drip down directly on the main seal, which can be confusing and can end up basically diagnosing the wrong problem. And just above it you have these two plugs that actually screw into oil galleys and they can back off and leak as well. So if you have an oil leak out of the back of your 4.0 or 4.6 and you're going to get the repair done, make sure that whoever loos at it gives it a thorough look over because it doesn't necessarily mean it's the rear main seal. So, just a little tech tip for you, and hopefully this will come in handy the next time you go to repair your engine oil leak on your 4.0 or 4.6.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using
money-saving kit # ABP221SKA, with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: ABP221SKA Replacing Brake Hose & Brake Fluid On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on one of the kits that we offer for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also referred to as the L322. This is part of our maintenance and repair academy program. Now this is a maintenance kit that is usually recommended once every 105,000 miles. Remember too, your original brake hoses are a rubber based component. They can dry up. They break down. They're worn both inside and outside. So, this is something you want to consider. You definitely don't need a brake hose to fail while you're on the road. So, what we offer is actually something better than the original design. Instead of a rubber based hose we have braided steel with a hard rubber casing. Comes with the hardware needed to attach to the original hold downs and hardware. Your front hoses and rear your hoses with mounting brackets and additional hardware which you'll need to install. And enough brake fluid to flush the system out instead of just topping it off. While you have the hoses out this is a good opportunity to do another basic maintenance at the same time which is a brake fluid flush. Makes a huge difference because brake fluid is designed to hold and maintain any water or dirt contaminants that get into the system. So you want to flush that out just like you would an oil change, transmission service, anything else. Fluid needs to be changed. It's not a forever fluid. So we offer the Castrol which is a very high grade, very good fluid. So this is the kit and you'll find it listed on a downloadable and printable sheet that we have on our website that shows the brake hose and fluid kit. Part number is ABP221SKA. And you'll see again recommended mileage is every 105,000 miles. So, that's the kit. And now we're going to show you where all these hoses are located and just some basic instructions on how to change them over.These will last quite a while. So, when you're ready to change the brake hoses over on your L322, and 2do a brake flush, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug present an overview of what is under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size L322, 2006 - 2009, with a 4.2 Supercharged engine. He'll also show you the locations of most of your fluid fill points and other items of interest. This is the same as the 4.4 naturally-aspirated engine. Doug shows you how to reposition the hood in the full upright position in order to gain better access to the systems under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Under Hood Tour Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationAlright, so what we have here is a 2006 Full Size Range Rover. The L322. This has got the 4.2 Supercharged engine. The locations of most of your fluids and your items of interest under the hood are going to be basically the same whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated. So essentially what we're going to do is start in the back passenger corner. You have the battery box. And you'll find the battery is tucked in there pretty good. And these are a good size battery. And we'll show you a little trick in a little while on how you can reposition the hood so you can have easier access to items in the back. Next is going to be your cool box. In here is going to be most of your major modules. Your PCM, transmission control module, transfer case module. And this actually has a cooling fan similar to what you have on your PC to keep your box down at a certain temperature. This is actually in a way climate controlled to keep the moisture level and condensation and all that down from inside the box. Then you have your coolant overflow reservoir with the bleeder cap. This is where you're going to watch your coolant levels. On the side, on this side where I am looking down there is actually a level stripe on the tank so that you can watch and maintain your coolant level. This is just a crossover tube for your air conditioning. This is your power steering fluid. And you essentially have the same thing. You have a level marker towards the front, but with a flashlight you can actually get a better idea. Always check this with a flashlight and check your level. And it also gives you a better idea on the condition of your fluid. Should the fluid turn a dark color, a dark black or whatever, this can be flushed and refreshed with fresh fluid. And you should do it. Just like any petroleum based fluid it should be done on a regular basis. Your washer fluid with the vent. Your air filter box. Your oil level dip stick. Now you'll notice an O ring on here. These systems have a negative pressure system inside the crank case to keep the crank case ventilated. So it's actually important on these O rings on both the filler cap and the dip stick stay maintained. This is your ABS control module, both the hydraulic and electronic. Your lines. You'll see these 2 large caps on both sides which are just simply covers on for the top of your air suspension struts. And then in the rear compartment is going to be your brake master cylinder, which also has a level marker on it. So these are all your points that you'll want to check on a regular basis. You always want to check your fluids so in case you pick up a leak or something you have an idea of what youre losing. Now, what we'll do is we'll show you how to access and remove this engine cover. You'll notice that the back quarter of it disappears underneath this panel, and so do the 2 rear screws that hold it down. This upper plenum, which is part of the heating system and also contains the pollen filter, which on another video we'll show you how to replace. You can remove this with just simply removing 2 bolts and this upper weather strip. And we're going to show you how. This simply pulls up and removes right off of a pinch well.Now we just bring this straight up. And you'll see this thin tab right here. I'll swing it out of the way so you get a better view of that. Just a slight tab with a hole in it. You're just going to swing that down. The hole lines up with this pin that's built into the hinge. And then just let it relax. Now the hood is almost in a full straight up vertical. Your cover and your plenum is out of the way. And this gives you very easy access to the top of the engine. So, that's basically our tour. We're going to show you in other videos how to change the different filters and other maintenance items on this. So, feel free to look through the other videos for any ideas or any information you need to work on your Full Size Range Rover.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Tech, remove and replace the engine in our 2000 Discovery Series II with one of our exclusive remanufactured engines. Doug goes in-depth in this engine installation, which in real-time should clock in as a 10 hour service. We recorded the process starting in January 2017 and finishing in November 2017, working on it when time allowed. It actually sat for months, as we had other things on our schedule to work on.
Engine Item # 9257DRK / 9257BRK Replace &Install Short Block Engine Demonstrated on 2000 Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on what unfortunately becomes a pretty common item. As these Discovery's are getting older what's happening is we're running into head gaskets, slip sleeves, damaged cylinders due to burning coolant, a number of different things where you would end up requiring to replace the block before you;d be able to do a proper rebuild. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to remove the engine out of a Discovery. This is a 2000. Essentially 1999 to 2004 are all going to be pretty much the same other than the 2003 and 2004 some have the secondary air that's just a little bit more involved there. But what we have here is a 2000 Discovery. The heads are already off the engine. We made a determination we have a bad cylinder sleeve. And we're going to have to rebuild and replace the block. So, we're going to show you basically what you're going to need if you want to change the engine over on your Discovery. So essentially we're going to start from underneath the vehicle. And there's a lot to unbolt when you get underneath. Main thing is going to be you have 4 bolts that attach the transmission torque converter to the flex plate. We're going to access those from an opening that's just above the starter. We're also going to be taking this little bottom plate off so we have access so we can move the torque converter. This bottom panel that sits underneath the front pulley of the engine, we'll take this out so we can put a ratchet and a socket on the lower crack pulley so we can turn the crank. That makes that easier. Starter wiring. Knock sensor wiring. We've already removed the heads off this engine so we already disconnected at the exhaust so the exhaust is floating free. You've got your 2 cooling lines that run from the transmission up front to the transmission cooler. We're going to unbolt some of that. There are some brackets on that that attach it to the engine. And the of course the bottom bolts for the back of the oil pan. And the 2 on each side above where the transmission bolts to the block. And then the other 2 we'll get to from up top. We're also going to unbolt the, probably unbolt the mounts. You've got 2 nuts on the bottom here. Some of this like the mount bolts you'll want to pre-soaking in penetrating oil before you get into to the rest. Give that a chance to work it's way in. So there's a bit to do. But it's all got to get done. It's not all that bad. It's just a little time consuming but it's nothing but nuts and bolts. All right, so, first things first. We'll start with the heat shield that surrounds the starter. And that will give us access to the 2 wires that attach to the front of the starter. The S wire and the battery cable. And what holds that on, the back of it is a snap clip, but in the front there's a little hidden bolt right up on the engine mount. Just over that plate on the inside. You're going to have to do it by feel. A 10 millimeter head bolt. And that's what attaches to the front of the heat shield to the motor mount. You need to remove that to get the heat shield out of there. So we're going to sneak up in there with a ratchet and short extension, a 10 millimeter socket, take that bolt out. so we've taken the bolt out of that shield on the round the starter as they said there's just a snap clip on there so we push outward and then come back a little bit now like I said earlier you have the battery disconnected so you don't have to worry about shorting out or touching that wire and this is gonna just sneak right out the front steering that comes right out there's the snap clip I'm talking about so you can see this just basically grabs right around the starter solenoid take that out alright so our next step is going to be to disconnect the cables off of the starter and you have one 13 millimeter nut for the battery cable and then a little what they call the S wire which is your wire which engages our solenoid just simply plugs in we can grab that with a pair of needle nose pliers and pop that out once we clear that out of the way and we've also got on the same harness the wire for the knock sensor which we're going to disconnect there and then then we can just take this part of the harness and swing that right up out of the way and then we're going to look at the couple different ways we can get at the four bolts that both the torque converter to the flex point alright so there's an access to those four bolts that hold the torque converter there's a rubber plug on the passenger side right above or right here underneath the starter and just above the offhand it's part of the back of the off pan you pull that rubber plug and you'll be able to get a direct shot at the bolts now there is a recessed in the oil pan so I usually find the best way to get at it is to use a long extension about 11 inch with a 13 millimeter side get enough ratchet and then just get in there and turn it to break it loose now to get each one to spin this I find the easiest way you take a 15 16 socket and a rat long ratchet and you get on the front pulley ball then you can just turn the engine you can turn it in either direction and if you have a little foley mirror that makes it even easier because then you can actually see up in there to be determined where the bolt is so bit of a pain but that's the way it's designed that's the best way to deal with it the only other way would be to make it any easier would be maybe to drop the front drive shaft to get that out of the way so you can get your hand up in there or even just drop the oil pan what you're gonna have to drain the oil anyway before you pull the motor out so this there's alternative ways of going about it so we're gonna take those four bolts out and then we'll go to our next step which will be accessing and getting to the bottom bolts locking the block to the transmission alright just quickly so we got the four bolts out this is what they're gonna look like is four all the way around thirteen millimeter head like I said they're not all that easy to get at but you can get at them so the next step is now we're gonna be unbolting back in the block from the transmission will do the lowers first and then we've also got a disconnect the transmission coil whines because they are held by brackets that bolt up to the oil pan we'll get that out of the way and at that point well actually be pretty close to ready to take this out the last step will be taking the nuts running the nuts out of the bottom of the motor mounts and then we'll set this down and we'll start disconnecting from up top so we'll start with the transmission cooler lines because the brackets that lock them in place there's one area where the coil lines are right in front of two of the bolts that we need to take out for the transmission to block so you have a clamp here and then another one up front that's got ten millimeter nuts we're going to take those out and then that will allow these to float around nice and loose and get them out of the way we're gonna leave them in place we're not going to disconnect them from the cooler we're not going to disconnect them from the transmission this way you don't lose any fluid you won't have to worry about doing that after you do your reassembly all right so now we've removed and disconnected the three clamps on the transmission Coll line so they're a little more flexible now it gets a movement so this way we can move these out of the way push them out the way when we get to there are two bolts facing the front of the engine on the back of the oil pan and two on this side we need to take those out and then you have two on the bottom and then one on this side and one on this side and the rest we'll be able to do from the top will show you a little trick on how to get to that so from now we're gonna take those bolts out and then we're also going to remove the nuts that face down on the motor mounts once we've done that we're pretty much free and clear underneath and then we can get back up on top and get the rest of the bolts out and get this engine out all right so now before we throw these bolts in the trace we're gonna do is I want you to show you take note you got different length bolts that come out of each location you got these four bolts or what's going to come out of the back of the oil pan into the transmission these are the two that are up higher at about three o'clock and nine o'clock and then these two are the ones that run through the bottom of the pan into the actually the bottom of the transmission bell housing and into the pants so just take note of the links so that when you go to put it back together you put the right bolt and right hole so we're going to throw those in one of our trays and we'll put that aside and now we'll get to the two nuts for the motor mounts alright so now that we've got the transfer the transmission to block bolts out on the bottom we're gonna take the two nuts out of the motor mounts you have an 18 millimeter nut one here facing straight down and another on the other side pointing straight down so you can get at these with a long extension and a good size ratchet a breaker bar or an impact gun once as it goes out we actually have a little hidden bolt right up here which holds this knock sensor harness up against the block instead of being a plastic clip it's actually bolted on so we're gonna get a half-inch socket on that and zip that out and that should pretty much clear us from underneath after this pretty much clear sailing we do need to drain the oil and remove the oil filter before we put it up before we put it down on the ground so that's pretty much that's pretty much it from underneath so let's get that done and we can set this vehicle down on the ground so now we've got this set down and we're ready to finish off the top end disconnect so that we can pull this motor out so what we're going to do at this point is we have the lower the upper : hose right here that runs from the thermostat over to the water pump and then over to the heater hose we're gonna remove that so we can move that out of the way you have an electrical connector right here for the oil pressure sensor and then there's another underneath for the camshaft sensor there's a plastic connector in there with a squeeze tab on it and you squeeze that down we'll disconnect that by doing that this harness here will be fully disconnected and we can swing that up and out of the way and get that out at that point we should be able to easier easily get at the oil engine oil cooler which some vehicles are equipped with some are not and you'll be able to tell this is one of the lines right here for the engine oil cooler then there's another that comes in up below a 7/8 open end wrench will crack that loose and we'll take those out we've already drained the oil and we've removed the filter so when we take that line off we're gonna drip a little bit of oil but not too bad so maybe you want to put a rag or some speedy dry or something underneath just to catch that a little bit so let's get this apart so we can get the engine hooked up and get it out of here alright so before I pull the hose off on just a few things the clamps that are gonna hold that hose on are nothing more than just a squeeze type so you're going to grab your trusty pair of water pump pliers squeeze down and on and lift them up now what will happen is these are probably been attached for quite some time they're not going to come off easy initially and just take the water pumps set it up for about the right size of the hose and if you grab around the end of the hose and twist back and forth all of a sudden they're just going to crack loose and then you grab just to the outside of the pipe so as you squeeze it rolls the hose off now before I pull this off there's going to be some residual coal in there and probably sitting in the pump so I'll throw a pant or catch pan or something underneath so that's gonna catch that so now we'll just roll that out so we'll do this and this the same way this holes will be out of the way alright so here's your two connectors removed this is the one for the oil pressure switch there's a little metal spring top you're gonna depress that and then this will pull right off this one is a little more difficult because it's in an area you really can't see but this is the tab I was talking about it runs across the back you just reach in underneath with your fingers and just give that a really good squeeze sometimes it helps to push it into the connector squeeze it and you'll actually in most cases you might even feel or hear a little click and then you'll pull that right out so now we need that harness up out of the way and that opens up your view now to the two lines for the oil cooler you have one right here and there will be a 7/8 open end wrench it'll crack that loose and then the other one underneath again it's just it's a no see but you can feel it you feel the pipe run up and there's a nut the same size as this one right up underneath we're going to be able to sneak a wrench in and probably have to tap it with a hammer just to get enough leverage to be able to swing that wrench and this is the transmission coil line you can just push this down out of the way it's flexible now because we've unbolted it from underneath and once we get those two out then what we're gonna do is we're get-- the engine crane hooked up and the trick to getting the back bolts and we're at least getting better access to them has been that with the lift we're gonna pick the engine up we're gonna unbolt these brackets on both sides take the motor mounts out completely lower the engine back down and it will now lower three to four inches lower than it would be with the mounts which exposes the pop bumps in the back and makes it a lot easier to get at them once we've got those bolts out this is ready to come out alright so we've got we're at the point we're ready to start pulling the motor we want four bolts up top that we've got to take out plus the motor mounts but before we do what we want to do is put some support under here under the bell housing of the transmission as you can see there's no mount and so when we pull this engine this is going to want to drop and it's going to want to drop down this is a woman housing so we don't want to bang it on a crossmember we don't want to bang it against the driveshaft we'd kind of like to hold it about where it is so that when we go to put the new engine in that we were able to line up the bolt holes a little easier so what I'm going to do is you simply use a regular pull strap these little straps are very strong and what I can do is I'm going to sneak it over the frame over the catalytic converters - under the bell housing back up to the other side and then come down to the frame and we have these convenient pull hooks that are on the discovery tools that they use done when they ship them over from Europe that they could lock them down in place in the container so these come in very handy right now so that's all we're gonna do right now is we're gonna run this up route it up and over under the bell housing back over the frame and we've got enough room between the frame in the in the body speak this through all right so in this case because of this strap the the turnbuckle or lock buckle right here was going to go up over the frame so you can also hook on the radius arm did the same thing basically over the frame under the bell housing back over the frame and hooked up there get a little bit more slack than I'd like so we can just take a little wooden block and throw that in there that's not going to go anywhere and so now we're basically ready underneath we've drop this back down and we're going to raise the motor enough to take the motor mounts out then lower the engine which will actually be now lower than it would be sitting on the motor mounts so you get better access to the four bolts on the top once those are out this engine is out alright and last but not least before we get into doing this though we realize we gotta take the hood off because we're going to need clearance we're gonna have to come up quite high you really don't want to put this hood will fall back but it'll only go so far before it starts digging into the plastic cow and possibly bending the back corners of the hood so relatively easy to take off one thing you definitely don't want to forget is to disconnect the washer hose pull off this nipple right here and then we have 4 13 millimeter head bolts we'll take those out and it actually will stay in place even with the bolts out while it's on the prop rod and then it's just a matter we'll take the prop rod we'll slide it down a little bit before you do call your neighbor a friend because this is definitely a much easier job for two people once you've got this out of the way and we'll get to work taking those top bolts out of the engine so you see now we have the hood off and what's very easy to take off like we shown and it's very light it's an aluminum hood now we have that out of the way now this opens up the entire area to make this much easier you'll also notice what I have hooked up to the top is what they call a load level or for a portable you can rent them you can buy them they're not that expensive and they just make the job so much easier essentially what happens is you'll be hooking this to the engine hoist and you can turn this handle so change the position of this Center bracket and then that will actually change the tilt of the engine so that as we come up and out it'll make it much easier and it also makes the installation 10 times easier so something you want to consider before you go pulling it out so what we're going to do now then is we're going to unbolt the motor mounts where they bolt to the engine block we've already got the two bottom pins done so we're gonna hook this up pull this up a couple inches access these inside bolts is to there's actually three bolts that hold them out to the block once that's out of the way we lower it back down we're gonna be only get to those back bolts all right so now as you can see with the motor mounts and the brackets removed in the engine load we've got very good access to these four top bolts on the top of the bell housing now we're gonna at this point all we need to do to move out of the way is the O2 sensor connectors for upstream you'll see one here and there's one on the other side they just slide over a metal tab that has an indent in it and you'll see a little push button right there on the top of the connector and you're gonna slide that to push that in towards the center of the connector to release it that connector will come out and then you're going to basically grab the back side of it with a push tab to separate the two halves of the connector to get that out of the way and then right here we have our crankshaft sensor connector and we're going to squeeze this top tab pull that apart that gets the wiring out of the way so now we have good access because the one bolt on this side and the other side at the lowest points are holding the bracket that holds those O2 sensors in place so the right in the way those connectors so we're going to remove those and then we're gonna take those four bolts out you can use if you have a flex head ratchet and a socket will work good they're gonna be half-inch heads I might prefer using I use a box socket wrench which basically has a flexible socket on one end and an open end on the other and that seems to work pretty well or even an offset wrench they're gonna be a little tight initially but once you break them loose they usually spin out fairly easy so we're gonna go ahead pull these apart take those four bolts out and then we'll be ready to pull this motor out all right so I'm going to show you a neat little trick being that the bolts on this are half-inch so we have a half-inch wrench we got a box socket down on that lower bolt I really don't have a lot of leverage so if you take a 3/8 break a bar and put a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter on it of course that adapters gonna fit right on the wrench and now you've got leverage to break this bolt so we got the four bolts out of the back we showed you how to take them out and at this point danger was ready to come out literally all I we did was put a little tension on the chain grab the front train back and forth and the engine just come right off the transmission in most cases that's how I've had them come off once in a while you're going to get one that's going to be a little tight you can take a long straight blade screwdriver and get in between the transmission there's and the engine is a couple areas that race the areas that are just for that purpose sometimes they just need a little gentle persuasion but for the most part they actually come right off so now we've got this away from the transmission we've centered up you're gonna check underneath you've got a couple cooling lines or whatnot that may grab a hold of something under the bottom so you just want to come up a couple inches at a time check your lines check your hoses a little couple inches at a time and eventually we'll get it right up and out of there now we have the adjustable adjustable top piece so that we can change our angle as we come up and as we come down by putting that in angle like this you sort of shorten the length of the block the other thing on the exhaust so going back to that piece of cardboard that we put in front of the radiator is also going to protect it in case this suddenly swings forward this suddenly swings forward and touches the radiator and we're gonna punch a hole in it we can square this off it's a snug fit but it does come out try to hold it square we don't catch the wiring harness in the back and you come up now remember to as your arm comes up it shortens the distance so that this engine is actually going to move forward a little bit as you're coming up so take that into account you just want to hold it back just a little bit we're gonna have to go up quite a way because we still have the oil paint underneath there forward where the adjustable comes in real handy we can pick up the back end a little bit and clear the oil pan and there we go she's out now it's just a matter of getting things prepped on the new engine that's going to go in and we'll reverse the process alright so we have the engine sitting here and then what we have to do now is we have ancillary parts that got to come off this engine that are going to go on the new one because they don't come with the new short block and you're looking at flywheel Assembly your starter front cover front pulleys and then we still have the crankshaft position sensor and in some engine designs your replacements not going to come with an oil pan either so we're going to remove the oil pan and that basically is stripped a block down to its bare essentials you know you would be getting new lifters and some other pieces on there but for the most part we're gonna need the majority of their loose outside parts on this to transfer over so first we're gonna start with the flywheel are actually flex plate and then a torque wheel because this is for automatic transmission this is the flex plate that bolts to the torque converter there's your gear sets right there for your starter starter on the other side and the course front cover an oil pan so let's start at the back and we'll work our way forward alright so starter first you have two bolts on the starter one top one bottom eight millimeter hex drive and I'll run that there and we'll get those two bolts out I'm sure we save our hardware we're gonna need those bolts to put it back in and now we're going to take flexplate and torque wheel off now something you want to do when you take this flex plate off these are notorious for a hairline cracking where the bolts go so you want to give it a really good inspection to make sure no cracks no stress fractures nothing on that so we this one looks clean put that aside then we have our large spacer and then the flex plate is basically held on by a hub and we've got six bolts right here that have eight millimeter hex drive in them and we're gonna take those off now these are in these are in really tight plus when they go install from the factory they're also held in by lock tight so I find sometimes even an impact done isn't good enough to break them loose now you can either put like I said a large screwdriver through here to kind of hold it in place I have a tool that's been around for a long time and is used specifically for holding a flywheel or attorney so we're gonna use that to hold it and I'm going to put a breaker bar on this with a reducer adapter so that essentially we're going to reduce down from half inch drive to 3/8 drive meter then we're gonna break these loose by hand and take them out okay we have that off make sure again save the hardware put it in a spot where you're not going to lose it so we're gonna do now is the last item in the back is going to be crankshaft position sensor which is on the left-hand side of the engine alright so the next thing we're going to take off is the crank position sensor and we've got basically an insulating cover over the top of it so we've got two bolts here that are seven millimeter we're gonna take those out take the shield off and then under that is two nuts on too long studs and those are eight millimeter and once we take those off the sensors out alright so we got the two nuts out we've got the shield off and then you have the spaces here that lock it in place again put them in a safe place don't want to lose them and then you just slide that crank sensor right off those studs don't worry about the rest of this this will come on the new short block so now at the front of the engine we've got water pump pulley lower pulley and front cover so we're gonna do is zip off these three bolts take that pulley off 15:16 so take the main crank pulley off and then from there the damper just slides right off to things you want to look at when you get to that point you want to look for heavy cracking and splitting essentially a vibration damper or this lower pulley is a center hub with a rubber ring and then the outside pulley I've seen a number of these come apart this rubber dries out and the whole outer outer area the pulley area can actually slide right off and cause damage so if you see any dry cracking and whatnot I would suggest replacing this and then on the water pump I would suggest if you're going to put a new engine in you're gonna take the water pump out replace the water pump put a new one in you really don't want to take any chances on overheating or have the thing go a couple months down the road after putting a new motor so just a suggestion so we're going to zip this off and get this out of the way so we can take the front cover off all right so at this point now we're at the water pump and what you have is four bolts here here here in here are 7/16 or 11 millimeter and these go all the way through into the block and then the shorter ones the 10 millimeter are the perimeter bolts and once we zip those out we can take the water pump right off and then from that point we're just going to take all the perimeter bolts off of the front cover and the front cover will come out as well so here's the water-pump like you said once we took the bolts out of tap straight off definitely want to replace the at least do the gasket on this now right underneath it is your camp position sensor we're gonna zip this off there's an 8 10 millimeter bolt and that's going to come right out and then we're gonna do our perimeter bolts on the front cover all right so two things to note you'll notice that when you're taking the perimeter bolts out the bolt that's in this position has a little bracket on it you want to make sure you make note of that so when you go to reassemble the bracket ends up in the same place that's the basically the hole down for the connector for the camp position sensor we want to make sure about that now you've got the perimeter bolts in there are also three nuts underneath there are studs that come down through the front cover and go through the coil pan and you need to take those three nuts out as well now the studs that are fairly long so you can do this one at two ways you can either take a little stud puller and pull those three studs out in which case then you can just take the front cover and pull it right off or what we need to do now is we need to unbolt the oil pan so that we can get the oil pan down out of the way so that we can then pull the front cover so we're gonna take care of that oil pan right now now what I'm gonna do is this is kind of a neat little trick you got a little bit of a stub that sticks out of the back from the crankshaft so you really can't lay this right up on end without some kind of a spacer so what I do is use that point there and we got some coolant left in there so now that we've got this leaned up you can see you've got a row of bolts on both sides basically we've already got the back bolts out and when we pull the engine you got a bracket right here that we want to make sure we note when we take that off and then there you can see where your stud is this one came out with the nut but again there's your there's your three studs so we're gonna zip these two premier lines of bolts out that's going to move the oil pan they'll be the oil pickup tube we zip that out and then from there we can just take the front cover off all right so we've taken this line of bolts out now just the note you have two more down in these wells these are at the very back of the oil pan and up inside so a lot of people forget about those I've zipped those out so now we should have all the bolts out so we can tap off the prefer to use a rubber mallet as opposed to a steel hammer obviously because it's aluminum you don't want to you really don't want to crack it you just can see somebody RTV the heck out of this but you really shouldn't do something I'll suggest to afterwards once you get all this off before you go to assemble it may get some engine degreasers or cleanup or take these to your local machine shop and have them hot tank this what it'll do is it'll clean off all the oil and grease get all the money out of it you really don't want to put a new short block in and have something like this in the bottom of it so here we have the oil pickup - we got a 13 millimeter nut here we've got two eight millimeter bolts here that will take the oil pickup tube out and then from there we can then remove the stock in there and we can remove the front cover so something also make know enough here's the yeah here's your I'll pick up two removes you have an o-ring here at the end and definitely want to replace that before you put a new one back in always put a new o-ring and then take a note that you had a stud a nut and then this spacer that went on the back of that bracket then the bolt would run through and then bolt to the block and that put this in the proper position so now you've got basically you've got everything unbolted and then we can just take a rubber mallet on this Center should break it right loose again whoever somebody's been into this engine before and obviously really likes our TV which is sort of a no-no plus they've got washers now between the oil pan and the block which is also no no and we'll lift the front cover right up and out now I'm gonna make a note we've actually touch base on another video about these front covers but essentially what you have here you can take these six Phillips screws out or actually I think they're posi drives now these are Phillips and inspect your oil pump alright you have an inner gear and an outer gear the outer gear basically is the rides against or sits in this housing the front cover so you want to make sure there's no scratches deep marks or whatnot they can affect oil pressure any marks at oil at all any scratching you want to replace the front cover and these oil pump bolts so just a note so that's pretty much it you've picked off what you need to strip off the rest is going to be on the new short block you put in and again would be a really good idea as far as the auto-pay in the front cover if you can get them cleaned off as well as possible would also be a good idea to do two valve covers at the same time and just get those items cleaned up so not only will you eliminate the fact that you could have somedirt or contamination so inside of them when you put them on the new short block but also they've making a cleaner approach to make it much nicer when you sort and put it back together and the engine itself will have a nicer appearance so we're ready to start putting this together we're gonna start at the back and essentially show you is that how to reinstall the the flywheel the flex plate and the starter that basically is going to kompis the back and then of course your crankshaft position sensor so we'll start with the flywheel and if you notice you have a pin to stick the back of the crank and that pin is gonna go to your locating hole and you'll see this sort of toothbrush all the way around that's an indication that's got to go towards the block because that's where the pin from your crankshaft position sensor is gonna ride so I usually just take one bolt and we get that locating pin lined up we can rack this back and forth until it drops in just take one of the bolts and we're gonna start we're gonna leave that half hanging out reason being is now we're going to put the other five in we're gonna put a little drop a thread lock on it and then we'll take that one back out put the drop a thread lock in and put that in all right so we've got a little thread lock you can pick this up in any automotive center and we're just gonna basically put just a little stripe right there it doesn't take much just need a little bit go in and we're gonna do that the remainder three bolts so we're gonna take this one back out actually even at this point we can do so now you got two bolts in there to keep the flywheel and dropping out squeeze a little bit on there and then put that back in alright so we're gonna do the other three the same way and then we've gone to the book and refer to your torque specs and these six bolts get torqued down to 58 foot-pounds handy little tool sort of old-school not many guys have got them anymore but this is basically for holding if it's a flywheel holding tool and they are still available so we're just gonna go around we're going to torque them all up to 58 and then we're gonna go back around and just recheck them all so you'll notice on the first torque I do it and diagonally I go across sort of in a star pattern and then just to make sure that you've got them all what you do is start at one point and then just recheck them all the way around in a circular motion so you know you've got all six and all all more torque to the right spec alright so the next thing we're gonna put on is the flex plate now you can see these are relatively thin you see these markings on here so you can see that this this originally was bolted to this side would have been to the transmission and the one with the full circular pattern would fit what you've got here so they would go on in this direction it really doesn't matter if it's the same both ways this is the plate that connects the engine to the transmission the full load of the engine basically goes through this plate to get to the transmission so what happens is on these and I've seen it happen many times they get a hairline cracking them something usually right in this area from the bull hole out to the outside and they give you a noise when they operate so you want to make sure that you inspect it really good put a good light on it go over it make sure you see no cracks in there whatsoever before you put this on so we're going to set this in place put a dab of Loctite on there just to make sure and then these get torqued to 33 foot-pounds alright so next what we're going to do is we're going to put the crank position sensor in that's going to run right here now this is a Bosch engine on the GEMs it'll be a little different but the positioning is the same and what we have then is essentially the sensor goes on then there's a pair of spacer barrels the nuts and that locks the sensor in place and then there is a heat shield cover that goes over the top of that with two long bolts the nuts that hold the sensor in are 8 millimeter the two bolts that hold the shield on are going to be seven millimeter so get your tools accordingly alright so just something I wanted to mention that should have mentioned earlier you had that groove cut in the back of the flywheel as I mentioned the the crank sensor rides inside that groove there's a little pin off the front of the crank sensor I've seen in many cases where when the process of taking the old engine out and that we're reusing the old crank sensor that sometimes that pin can get bent in the process so you want to make sure that you look at that pin it's nice and straight and you can actually look down in the opening here between the back of the flywheel and the block and you can see the pin of the crank sensor sticking out and it should ride right in the middle of that groove if that's the way it's set up then you're perfect you're fine but you just want to double-check that all right so put on the back is your starter and this is definitely a lot easier to do it now than after you drop the engine in place because this top bolt can be a bear so they're essentially the same style bolt is what you had on the flywheel 8 millimeter there allen head one on top one on the bottom we're gonna slide the starter in start the two bolts torquing down to 32 foot pounds and we'll be in and that will basically be it what we need to do with the back then we're going to show you how to put the front cover on in that area alright so just a quick review crank sensor crank sensor cover flex plate flywheel starter so now we get everything on in the back and then what we're gonna do next is front cover alright so now we're into the front of the engine and the first thing we're gonna do is put the front cover on the front cover includes your oil pump and it's actually a fairly large component and the reason we're replacing it on this because we've checked it out and we've looked at the old oil pump there's a little bit of scoring and there's some where you certainly don't want to put an old oil pump that may not be able to bring oil pressure up to where it's supposed to be on a brand new engine you want everything nice and tight so we're going to put a new front cover on it so the first thing I like to do we're going to do two things to get this prepped we're gonna take some sealant that I call it what it's called high-tech and we're gonna spray some sealant on this surface right here where that front cover makes contact and even before I do that going to pour some motor oil I like to get the chain nice and wet before I put that in this way and when I get to the point where I'm ready to start the engine I know I've got a well lubricated chain so I'll just grab any one it doesn't matter because it's mostly gonna drip off so the replacement gasket you'll notice has a black bead on one side and not on the other and this is actually going to sit in this position and you notice when I sprayed I also sprayed around the coolant portals on both sides because we want to get a good seal there and then what we'll do to now is we'll spray the back of the gasket and we're going to wait about five minutes late get a little tacky this is gonna do two things one it's gonna help seal better two it's gonna hold the gasket in place when put the front cover on we don't have to worry about pinching the gasket or having it seen out of place when we go to install it all right so gaskets in place you can see this does a really nice job holding it's got nice and tacky and we'll just a little fingertip tap there now if you don't like the the red that shows up around the seal or don't worry about that after you put the cover on you can shoot a little brake cleaner on every why not washes it right off so you won't even see it so everything's sitting in place now when you put the front cover on as they mentioned earlier the oil pump is part of the front cover if you wanted to get more information on this we actually have another video that basically is a overlook of how this is put together so here's your oil pump drive and you have a key weight on the crankshaft what we're gonna do is we want to kind of get an idea what angle that pin is that we kind of want to set this inner gear and about the same angle and it'll just make the installation easier you know we need to do really is to just line that up and slide it on so once you push it in place you'll notice now you have two locating dowsers pins here and here once you get this up in place you're gonna line those up and this will just set right in place so now it's nice and square so we're gonna do at this point is we're gonna replace install the lower bolts and we're just gonna set them in snug I'll you'll notice that some of these pass through into the block so it's recommended by Landro we're gonna put a little black RTV on the threads just so that it seals all the holes because there's a couple in particularly that paths actually go through into a water jacket in the block we certainly don't want that leaking so we'll take the bolts we'll put a little sealer on there we'll set them in place and then we're going to torque them in so we put a dam up black sealer black art any of each one of these right you got the one long bolt here and then the others are all the same length and then just take note you have a bracket right here on this particular bolt this is the bracket that's going to support the connector for the cam position sensor which is going to go right here so all you want to make sure you put that on so factory specs your recommends torque specs of 16 foot-pounds you start in the middle and then we work our way around in a circular pattern all right so we're all torqued up on the bottom bolts because we're gonna have actually two more right here and another here and then these also pass through into the block and then we've got the water-pump bolts we're gonna do that in a few minutes but on the original front cover there's an adapter right here that does a 45 degree for the oil filter and we're gonna have to take that off the other cover to install it here now it's nothing's it's sealed with an o-ring so I just wanted to explain that and we're gonna show you this is three bolts you take that off and then we're just going to transfer it onto here so this is the elbow that we're talking about and you got four bolts that hold it and I pull the bolts out they're usually on there pretty stiff so you have a little bit of a land that sticks out right here and over here so you can tap on that with a hammer because you will have to knock it off so we've shown you the piece that's got to come off now in the old cover you're also gonna find this adapter and this is what that elbow would seal on and it does nothing but just thread over the existing threaded shaft you're gonna just run that up in there and it's because it's a one inch socket we'll put a deep socket on it we got to Snug that in and now what will happen is when we put the elbow up it's going to seal around that o-ring so put a little Vaseline on there just to make the ease of the installation we'll tighten it up and then we'll put the elbow on all right so water pump is gonna go on next and same thing we did with the front we're gonna basically look at the let's look at the configuration and looks like gasket goes on like so so we're going to spray the greenside we're gonna spray a little bit on that will they get tacky for about five minutes and then we'll be able to put the water pump on all right so actually the book gives you a torque spec where it's the same as what we did on the front cover below it's going to be 16 foot pounds and you have the three bolts this one here here and here which have a six 7/16 or 11 millimeter head on them and you're gonna torque those to 16 foot-pounds the rest of them they're ten millimeter heads and they just go directly into the top and you can see they're open holes they don't go into any water jackets and those are just gonna grab a ratchet and Saki and you're just going to Snug them in all right so last two I am is last but not least we don't want to forget we definitely got to put the cam sensor back in and that essentially is going to now you before you put it in make sure there's an o-ring that sits at the bottom you want to make sure that's there so that that goes there and then of course there's our bracket now what happens on a lot of these the two little arms that act as guides to slide over this you'll see in this case coming apart they broke a little arm breaks so you can tuck one sight in and we're just gonna wrap a little wire tie around there and lock that in place so I'll just to show you what the finished product is we got a wire tie locking this in your wire your hole that's in the camp sensor for the bolt the bolts got through it the clamp in place so everything's all locked down nice and tight now we're just going to put the front pulley on and lock that down and we'll be all done basically with the front alright so same as with our pump did you have that key weight and it extends out through the oil pump so that it also locks onto the front pulley you can see the front pulley has a cutaway for the key so we get them pretty close to about the same position we'll wiggle the Sun and then we'll just wiggle this till we feel it drop in put our bolt on now if you have access to an air compressor and a half-inch hammer air hammer I would suggest use that this bolt calls for a torque spec of two hundred foot-pounds which is real hard to try to hold by hand if you can get somebody to run a tool around the flywheel to hold it in the back while you apply pressure on here or run it in with an impact because that may get you close to the 200 I've had great success over the years I just run them in with a half inch impact that usually tightens up to a little over 150 foot pounds and they never come off so now at this point we're ready to drop this in place so we're going to set this up so that we can lower it in place get it bolted up to the transmission and then just as we did when we took it out where we're going to attach it to the transmission and set it down lower than it normally would sit to gain access to these top four or five bolts and then once those are in we're pretty much bolted up up top we can lift it put the mouth side settle it down the engine action at that point will be in place and ready for assembly so at this stage of the game where we where we're at is they got the vehicle set up on the Left we've raised the lift up up a bit so that we have room for the legs for the for the crane with the air out of the front tires got to get the nose down so we can work our way over without having to climb into it so basically what we're going to do at this point is just simply Jack it up set it over the top and drop it down you notice the oil pans not on the reason for that is your sump is about five and a half to six inches deep which is that much higher you're going to have to Jack the engine to get up and over the radiator support so leave the pan off you can bolt it in once this is in the vehicle and on the mounts it's still very easy to install a pan from underneath so what we've also done is at this point I have a jack stand set up underneath the transmission with a wooden block on it to protect the pan and we can raise and lower the lift a little bit to sort of raise and lower the transmission position so that we can easily get into those top bolts and bolt up the top on on the motor now the other thing I was going to suggest or that I always suggest is you want to set one of the bolt holes for the trim for the torque converter that on the flywheel at about a seven o'clock position and then do the same thing for the torque converter so this way the two bolts are relatively close to each other so once you get the engine in and locked in it doesn't take much just to move one or the other to get it lined up so you can put that first bolt in and then after that it's just spin it and bolt it up and we'll cover that as we go along so that's where we're at right now so if you're doing this on your garage on jack stands then you can always do the height change on the transmission with a floor jack now as of right now you know we've got the strap underneath and that's basically just to keep the transmission from falling out from underneath so so we'll put a wooden block on the and of the floor jack just to protect the pan of the transmission and slide it underneath and you can raise and lower it that way so here we go let's put this engine in so you'll see something that you may notice the strap that I have on here essentially what has happened is a lot of these wealth the lot of these cranes the bar will not come out far enough to actually get the motor to reach against the transmission so using this tool and raising the lower in the vehicle on the jack I can get the angle or the transmission and the engine lined up and then once we got the engine down in its proper height we basically put a ratchet strap on here on on this pipe that's basically as I pull the ratchet strap it's pulling the pipe forward pushing the engine back up into the transmission so we're able to get the right angle so right now we're in we're all lined up so we're gonna get the top four bolts in and then torque those up and then we can lower this down and start getting things ready to put the mouse on it and get that in place all right so you see the engine in this position we've got the four bolts in on the back we've talked them in now like I said you're not going to get a torque wrench you need just gonna have to set them in really tight because obviously they torque them up before they put the engine and transmission assembly and when they first built the vehicle so now what we're going to do now is we're going to pick this all the way up so that we have enough room to attach the mounts on each side we're going to show you that and then from there we just set it down and that's going to essentially put the motor in place and then from here we can lower the vehicle on the lift and actually start assembling the top end and bottom end of the engine alright pick this all the way up we want to watch to where the bellhousing of the transmission just barely touches the bulkhead and then what happens is when this raises this shorten is essentially the arm off the front of the vehicle so the other beauty behind this tool is we can crank this in and as we do that it's also going to move the crane back a little bit from the vehicle so it's not up against the front fender all right so we're all the way up in the air now I'll show you what we have to do with the mounts so what we've got in a used driver's side and you'll see this is a new mount of course you know when you first took the engine out you're gonna inspect the mouse if you see a major cracking or even a separation of the mount from the plate then you know you got to replace it so we've put a new mount in but usually the original bracket it's nothing more than an 18 millimeter nut with a stud just change that pick the nut off that'll remove the original amount put the new one in lock it down and then tighten it good and tight so essentially the mounts it's like so down underneath now it's kind of awkward because you have one bolt on top and two on the bottom and of course one of the lower bolts is sort of hidden behind the bracket all right so we're gonna lower the mount down in there and just line up the top bolt and we'll run that bolt in not tight but we're just gonna run it in till you feel snug and then back it off just a few turns so that we have a little slack so we can line up and install the two lower bolts you know we only need to get the lower bolts in by four or five threads the rest we'll do from underneath and then we can when you come back up top to assemble the upper area then we'll tighten the upper it's all in sequence so we got that in place so just to show you what it looks like in place this is the driver's side mount and we're essentially just gonna do the same on the other side put the top bolt in put the two bottom bolts in as far as we can by hand and then we'll set the engine down because obviously it can't go anywhere once it's done that and we can tighten up the ball and bottom bolts properly from underneath all right so just a note don't be afraid if the stud under of the mount doesn't Blayne right up with the one on the frame everything is built in tolerance and that's why they use rubber mounts you'll notice the stud here we've got slack on the chain so the motor is just sitting there the stud doesn't quite line up with the frame but that's why they make flexible mounts one tap and it's in will do the same on the other side we can disconnect the from this and then set this down all right so just so you get an idea say here's how your passenger-side mouth should look now on this one instead of being behind the hole as little to the outside just nothing more than just take a little screwdriver and give her a little push and it should drop right in so now the engines sitting nice and square on both mounts take the head bolts out and then we're gonna put the vehicle up in the air and we'll start assembling underneath all right so from underneath the vehicle now you can see you got a lot better access to the two lower bolts on the mount same width on the other side so at this point with a 15 millimeter race we're going to tighten those down good and tight and then we have the 18 millimeter nut and we're gonna do the same thing we've got to basically block down the mounts you can get up into these with a long extension an 18 millimeter socket well tighten those down good and tight and that will lock the motor down all right so the other good reason for leaving the pan off when you put this in is to access the four bolts that lock the torque converter to the flex plate as you can see when we explained earlier we want to get them fairly close in position and of course they never line up but you can't blow the torque converter very easily you can slide a long screwdriver just under the flywheel and then just move that torque converter up so you can see the bolt holes so there we are we're all lined up and we can put the new bolts and put one in leave that a little loose so that we can get the other three and easily and then we'll go back around and torque them up now to spend this the easiest way I found we've got the front pulley on so you're going to take a fifteen sixteenths socket and a ratchet put it on the center front pulley bolt and then we can just turn the whole engine around to access the other two bolts all right just a note when you get this top you're gonna see this open porthole right here with the two threaded bolts the essentially Land Rover head reused the same casting from the old GEMS engines where the oil pickup would attach here and come down would feed up through a galley that's up in the block well when they went over to the Bosch system they changed the design where you pick up tube now attaches all the way up here in the front cover so don't worry about leaving that open because that galley becomes blocked off when you install the front cover so don't worry about that when in case you're wondering what that is or if anything needs to be attached there with the Bosch engines you do not worry about that just leave it the way it is all right generally the procedure for doing the torque converter bolts because we're going to put lock tight on this but we don't want to put it on the first ball because we're gonna leave that a little loose and we don't want the stuff setting up with the bolt in that position so essentially what you're gonna do is you're gonna put the first bolt in you're gonna let it snug in back it off about a turn or so so it's loose the next three when you put those in you're gonna put a little dab of Loctite on those like we showed earlier with the flexplate bolts and then run them in take this one back out put the dab on it run it in and then we're going to torque them up all the way around so our next step is going to be to add the four bolts at the middle of the bell housing what I've done is I've started the bolt just so you can see the location one here one up above and then you're going to have two on the opposite side pretty tight to get at and again they're a half-inch head what I've used to get at these has been like a very long 3/8 drive extension with a half-inch deep swivel on the end and then a regular 8 inch 3/8 drive ratchet and with that we can run those in and get them pretty good and tight it's gonna be really hard to actually torque them so all I can suggest is at that point once you snug them in just give it a good hard twist lock them in and you're done on the bolt above because the right midsection are in a very tight spot I found it the best way to get to those is a half-inch shallow socket with a three inch extension and 3/8 drive and then a universal to your long extension in your 3/8 drive ratchet yeah they're kind of tough to get at but you can do it so our next step now is we're going to put the oil pickup back in now you look on the end of it and you'll see that there's an o-ring on the end and then your gasket set will come with a replacement actually it says right on the packet hole rings strainer and pipe we'll just take a small screwdriver and usually these are still fairly flexible we'll just peel that right out of there put the new one on and I always keep a little tub of vaseline or even a little motor oil or work whatever you happen to have around we're going to lube it up just a little bit so that when we install the strainer it's not gonna twist up the o-ring.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an Android device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the Android device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On Android Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more:checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so we're going to show you how to set up your new iLAND on an Android system. And essentially what will happen is when you get your Android tool, you're also going to get a set up sheet similar to this that's going to basically take you right through. This is an easy quick start guide. And what we'll start with is, you're going to turn your phone on. And we'll get on the screen. Now where you would go is you would go to your play store, your Google play store on your Android system. And then this will essentially put you there. It will have a search on top. And just put in iLAND diagnostics. And it will put you on this window. And we've all ready installed, but normally this would, this box on the left going to tell you install, hit that, let it do its thing. And then essentially you go back. And you will look for your icon right on your screen. So we'll hit that. We'll go back on that. And it's going to put you on the screen here. In fact let's back this up one. It's going to give you a screen that's going to essentially look like you're going to log in. But you haven't developed your registration yet. So down here, just below the log in box, you'll see sign up. We'll hit that. And then what it does now is put you on a screen. You're going to enter in your email address. This is the address that will be designated for this phone so once you enter it it becomes basically a permanent address. So we're going to do that. And we're going to go to the next screen. So you've entered your email address. The next screen you get is going to be verification. It's going to ask you to enter your received verification number which is right here. And we'll just punch that in. And then we're also going to set a password in here and it states 6 to 20 characters, doesn't say anything else about capitals or letters or numbers or whatnot. So just 6 to 20 characters will be enough for an adequate password. So now you've entered that. You're going to hit done. So the next screen now for the complete the info, this is a register this under your name, so your going to enter your first name, last name and zip code of where you live. So after entering your name and your zip code and you hit done, it's going to put you at one point it is going to tell you to pick a vehicle, but before it does, if there's any downloads, or upgrades available on this particular veh, on this particular set up, it will automatically set you up and sure enough, here we are, and we actually have a download available, so we're going to hit download. Let it do the upgrade and then we can get into picking our vehicles. Now, in case when you do finish your registration and whatnot, and there isn't a download or an upgrade available on that, at the time you'll get this window, it will just simply tell you sign up succeeded. And it will tell you to activate, welcome, to activate your dongle and you will have more functions. I'm going to hit that. Now it's going to ask for the serial number and the activation code which you will receive in the dongle box when you get your new iLAND. And this will come with your iLAND diagnostic tool. And there will be a product serial number, and then on this side the private / confidential which will be the verification number. You'll need to open up and underneath will be the verification number. And that's what this is asking for now. So we'll type in those 2 numbers. All right. So at this point now, you're going to get the screen that will ask you to choose your vehicle. Being that this unit is all ready set up for pro, it's all ready set up for all Land Rover vehicles, if you purchased your iLAND for a single vehicle. Of course now you choose your vehicle now, say either Range Rover, Discovery, whatever your vehicle is. Once you choose that it's locked in and you cannot change that. That remains constant on the vehicle. That's all you're going to have. So at this point now you've downloaded the app, you have the app, you have the vehicle choice, so now we're going back up to Bluetooth and link you up with the dongle. So when you get on your Bluetooth screen. First you're going to go to settings. You go to Bluetooth. You're going to look for available devices. You'll hit that and what it will do is a search. And then it will pop up the serial number on your dongle. And then at that point just tap that and it will pair it up. Now that we're paired, we have our app done, we can go back to our main screen. You see our iLAND and again I'm going to spell it out - it's i-l-a-n-d. There's no s in there. And go hit on the app. And basically we can now hook up to any vehicle. The first time you go into your vehicle, it's going to give you what they call workshop warnings. And these are basically just safety items that they want you to be aware off. And you'll hit accept. And then a warning using battery charger and whatnot. Just read through that. These are certain little guidelines. We'll hit accept. Please wait. And now everything is just going to load up. And there you are. Now it'll even show you if there is another version available, it will do automatic updates. So it's all ready loaded the newest updates so we can trash can the old one. We'll confirm. We'll take that out. So now we're on the latest and greatest. And you'll find that there will be updates as you use this constantly. They're always looking to improve the tool. So we'll hit confirm. And now it's going to set up the updates and get it all. Once the updates are loaded, you'll be able to get on the vehicle and be able to start your diagnostics. And that's basically all there is to it. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an iOS device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the iOS device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On iOS Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more: checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so let's begin. I'm going to show you how to load up your iLAND program onto your iphone or your ipad. You're going to go to app store. And when you go to app store, at the top when you search you're going to search for iLAND diagnostics. And that's i-l-a-n-d, no s. Once you get on iLAND diagnostics, you'll hit install and you're going to install the app on your phone. So, now you've downloaded your app, you'll find your icon on your main screen, on your home screen. So we'll hit that. So now we're going to go through registration process. Looks like a log in screen, but you'll see here in the lower left sign up. Hit that. And now you're going to feed the information. Of course it will say USA if you're in the United States. And then essentially what you're going to do at this point, you're going to enter your email address and then it's going to ask you to do it twice to confirm the correct email.All right, so we're essentially ready to do the next step will obviously the pairing. So we're going to pair up the phone now with the dongle so that once the two are connected, you'll have full use of your iLAND. So what essentially you're going to go to your Bluetooth settings. All right, go to settings, pull up Bluetooth, make sure Bluetooth is on. And then when you do a scan, the serial number for your unit is going to appear on your screen. Simply connect to it. Once you've done that, you're all set. So we'll get out of settings. We'll go back to our main screen. Let's hit iLAND. And now immediately all our vehicles come up. So if you're using an individual, you're just going to hit that, say you set yours up for a Range Rover, hit Range Rover and that's going to put you on the screen that's going to allow you to do all your diagnostics. And that we'll cover further in other vehicles. For now we want to show you how to do your initial set ups so you can get started using the iLAND. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in performing the oxygen sensor (or O2 sensor) service on a 1997 Defender 90. Using our
money-saving kit # AMR6244SKA, with all the parts you need to do this service, it is recommended that the O2 sensors be replaced every 90,000 miles. Kit #: AMR6244SKA Replacing Oxygen Sensors On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on the O 2 Sensor Replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. Now it's recommended on the high mileage vehicles, as actually in Land Rover's programs, your usually recommended at 90,000 miles. So if you have a high mileage Land Rover, the Defender 90, Discovery 1 and the P38 Range Rover will use this kit. It will give you all 4 sensors. Your 2 upstream and your 2 downstream, which actually are the same O 2 sensors. And what we're going to do later in this vehicle is we're going to give you basics and tips on how to replace those O twos. Now we're going to show you the location and give you a couple tips on changing the O 2 sensors in a 1997 D90. Since the advent of OBD 2, most of your vehicles 96 and up are going to have 4 O 2 sensors. You're going to have 2 upstream ahead of the catalytic converters. And 2 downstream, behind the catalytic converters. Now on the case on this one, these are all the same size. These are going to be a seventeen millimeter wrench you're going to use to take these off. And you'll see the locations on all 4. Access is pretty reasonable on these. The only thing you might find a little bit is on the routing for the wiring to get to your connectors you should be able to get to all 4 quite easily. But always check the routing of the wiring before you take it apart. Before you take it off. So that when you install it, you're going to put your wiring in the same place. Most notably, when you look at the rears, where they run the wiring through the transmission mount so they don't get hung up down below. You really want them up in a protected area, but yet not high enough to any of the supports or any moving linkage under there. Now, essentially, and we're going to show you on this O 2 sensor right here which is the downstream on the number 2 bank or passenger side of the vehicle. They've been in there for a while. And you usually find a flare wrench is usually the best application to atleast crack it loose. It has a better fit on the O 2 sensor itself. It will cause less distortion. That's why they use these on brake lines as well. You're just going to slide that over. And it's angled, so it will actually give you some access to the other end. And you just take a medium sized ball peen hammer. And you can usually tap it loose. Some of these it will be. It is loose but not quite loose enough to turn with the fingers. So you can just grab a regular open end wrench. Spin it off rest of the way. Trace your wiring to the connector, which in this case is just up and over the transfer case but still relatively easy to get at. Just right up in here where my finger is. And the other side will be the same. When you do the fronts, probably your best bet is to remove the O 2 sensor and then lower the vehicle, or if you're on a creeper go back up top. Your connectors are actually fairly easy to get at. Behind each cylinder head up top. And we're going to tighten this back up. You don't need to tighten it with a hammer like you did to take it off. You'll feel it seat just like a spark plug. Give it a little push. Eighth of a turn. Now she's seated in. Again you don't want to over torque it and do any damage to the threads. That's pretty much your O 2 sensors. As we recommended early, it's recommended to change them every 90,000 miles. After a period of time they do get coated. They're not as efficient as they were when they were new. That affects your fuel mixture in your engine which again can affect performance and fuel economy. When you want to do your O 2 sensors and you're ready for the kit you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Atlantic British Ltd. Do-It-Yourself-How-To Video: In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the
iLAND Diagnostic App to perform parking brake setting and unjamming procedures on a 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. How To Use the iLAND App Parking Brake Setting & Unjamming Procedures For All Late Model Rover Vehicles - Demonstrated on the Range Rover Sport. Hi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to touch base on one of the functions on the iLAND Diagnostic Tool that we now carry. And that's for servicing the rear brakes and the rear parking brakes. Now on this, this is a 2006 Supercharged Sport, this would actually apply to the Sport and the LR3, and I believe even the early LR4s, until they converted over to the motorized rear calipers later on. So what we're going to show you is basically how to access that function and what that function does for you. So the first thing we've done is we've plugged in our dongle. We see the blue LED. We know our dongle is powered up. Now this is, we're going to use the iphone, where you can do either iphone or ipad if you have it programmed to your unit. And on the iOS systems you're going to find 2 icons for iLAND. You're going to see one here and you're also going to see another with a blue dot on your second page. This is strictly for the software for the diagnostic procedures. You're not going to use that to access and diagnose your vehicle. You're going to use this one. So we're going to hit that. That's going to light up all the vehicles. Now in this case this is the Pro version, so its lit up all the vehicle models. If you have yours programmed for only one vehicle model, like a Discovery or a Sport or whatever, just that box is going to be lit in red. So we go to Range Rover Sport. We go through our garage disclaimers. And now we're going to wait a second and let this go through. Now it's telling us Diag file downloaded. Dongles connected. We want to make sure ignition switch is on. Now we're just going to turn this so that all of the lights come on the dash. We're not going to start and run the vehicle. And it confirms that the firmware version that we have on here is the latest. So we hit continue and we let the Bluetooth do its job. This model is a 2006. It's a Supercharged V8 Petrol. And again just making sure we have the key on so we can talk to all the different modules. And we're going to go to system selection. And then we're going to go to parking brake control module. So first it's going to do a set-up communication. Now you'll see the module in the parking brake is actually tied in with the high speed can, in other words it talks to all the modules that control the vehicle. The power train, transmission, transfer case, whatever. So it's actually an important module to this system. Now you'll see you can read fault codes. You can clear them. You can actually get in and read some of the live data. It will tell you what version information in case you need to know that. Special functions is what we're looking for though. And what this does is several things. One, it will allow you to get in and do the accelerometer calibration. Which sometimes needs to be done after you've replaced the module. You can also drive the parking brake to mounting position. And this comes in handy if you're replacing the rear brake shoes. And they have been an issue with these vehicles over the years. That you would use this to put the shoes, or actually would put the park brake module in a position where it makes it easier to remove and install the parking brakes. And you also have latching position, which is also used in some of the installations. Now this is the important one, as what happens on occasion is these modules will jam up, whether it will be an over torque or whatever the case. This will allow you to unjam it.Essentially going to hit that. And what this will do is you'll read through and it kind of explains why that this application will drive the park brake in an unjammed in the release direction and then drive it into a mount position which is fully retracted. Now you want to make sure battery is fully charged up. Anything you do with any monitor on these vehicles you want to make sure the battery is fully charged up. Low battery voltage can end up creating problems for you, because voltage is very important in the operation of all these modules. So essentially once you read through it explains what to do we're going to hit okay. Tells you again make sure ignition switch is on. Now it's going to tell you. You're going to start the motor. And just give it a second to come down on its idle. Got that settled. And there it is. You're unjammed. Actually we're already working with a vehicle with a fully operational parking brake. So it's already set, it's in an unjammed position so you can drive the vehicle. So now it's just telling me turn this off. We hit okay. Ignition switch on. And what it's doing is it's clearing any faults out of the module that may have occurred due to the jamming. Again we'll switch off. And switch back on, and it may seem redundant but this is the steps that it needs to see to actually go through and fully succeed in their functions. So control module procedure completed successfully. So we're good. Set the ignition switch to off. And it's just going back telling me, here you can just go back to home page if you want. So, this shows you the function on the iLAND that will allow you to do parking brake repairs and do them properly and much easier instead of trying to do it without. So if you're ready to step up to the iLAND to do this procedure and more on your Land Rover and help you maintain it you can just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 or you can go on this link and you can order it online. And if you like our how to videos, and would like to see more, you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and that will give you access to all our how to videos we have for your vehicle and more. So appreciate you watching. We thank you. And Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in performing the oxygen sensor service for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS Engine. Using money-saving kits # AMR6244SKA or ERR1834SKA (depending on VIN #), with 2 oxygen sensors each for front (upstream) and rear (downstream) installation, it is recommended that the O2 sensors be replaced every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: AMR6244SKA / ERR1834SKA Installing the Oxygen Sensor Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications, For vehicles with VIN up to 350101 (1995-1997): ERR1834SKA; For vehicles with VIN from 350102 (1997-On): AMR6244SKA Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to talk about the repair and maintenance academy kit that we ave for the replacement of your O 2 sensors on your 96 to 99 P38 with a GEMS engine. We have the kit. As you know you can go online and you can access and download this sheet. And what this does is give you a list of maintenance items are recommended by Land Rover in the maintenance schedule sheet for that vehicle. In this case we are going to discuss the kit for the O 2 sensors. They're recommending replacing the O 2 sensors every 90,000 miles. Over a period of time they do get coated. They get oil. They get road debris on them. And that will affect their performance which directly affects engine performance and fuel economy. What we have here is 2 different sets. And the reason for that is there is what they call a VIN split, or a change of design during that model. And what we have here is which stocks they - I'm going to pull this up so you can read that - these are the AMR6244SKA. These are for the P38 Range Rovers from vehicle number 350102. And that will be the last 6 digits of your VIN number that is on your windshield and on your door panel. The other kit is ERR1834SKA and those are for vehicles that were built up to 350101. So keep that in mind and before you order this kit you will need to know the last 6 digits of your vehicle I D number. And you can get that directly from the windshield on the driver's side or on the door jam on the driver side. Both will have your VIN number posted. Or even your vehicle registration will have it. So, there isn't much of a difference between them, but you will see that on the early version you have a black 4 pin connector. They use the same O 2 sensors. And on the new version, or the A's, uses a grey connector. That will help you discern whether or not you have either or. Again, I'll just reiterate that changing the O 2 sensors every 90,000 miles can make a huge difference in the performance of your engine. They do directly affect the fuel mixture, so they do directly affect your fuel economy. So now we're going to show you where the location of those O 2 sensors are and show you how to take them off. Here we are underneath a 99 P38 GEMS engine and we're going to show you the locations of the O 2 sensors. On these they're fairly open, they're very easy to get at. This is going to be the upstream O 2 sensor, and we're looking at the passenger side of the vehicle, or right side if you were in the vehicle facing forward. This is your downstream right here. Following your wiring will take you right to your connectors, which are relatively easy to access. Generally the 2 for the downstream are going to be right up on the backside of the transmission transfer case connection. And with these you are just simply going to use a five eighths wrench. And I usually start with a flair wrench because that creates less flex on the line. They become a little bit easier to disconnect. These are fairly clean, so you can see this one just broke loose. So you break it loose with a flair wrench, and then you can go to an open end. And you can even do it while it's still connected. You can spin these out. And then what you're going to do, once you have it laid down you can reach right up, disconnect it nothing more than just squeeze the tab and release it. And you're going to do just the opposite putting it back in. And once you set it in place, again, you use your open end to set it, and then you go back to your flair wrench. And you just need to give it a snug. You don't need to over torque it because you definitely don't want to strip the threads out on that and then that becomes a big job. That's in nice and snug. That's not going anywhere. There's the rear. Now you'll notice on some of these, right here. You'll see the heat shield actually touching the wiring. You want to put that heat shield back up in place because eventually what it will do is rub through those wires and then you're going to end up with an O 2 fault code. So always keep that in mind. Once you get these out you can see what's missing is a little washer and nut that belongs right there that will pull the heat shield off of the O 2 sensor. So keep that in mind you want to make sure there's nothing is rubbing on the wiring. Now just to show you where they are on the driver's side. Now on these the drive shaft seems like it might be in the way but you can still get a wrench up under the upstream. You're going to remove it the same way. Follow the wiring. It will take you to the connector. Squeeze the tab and release. The rear, actually relatively easy to get at. And what you may do when you go to take these off and sometimes you're going to run into something that's a little on the snug side, you can take a hammer and you can tap on the end of the wrench and slowly work it around. You'll feel if it's going to loosen up or not. Once you break it loose, I found sometimes you are going to get a lot of carbon build up, on the bottom side or exposed areas of the threads that are inside the cap. Just simply try to loosen it a half a turn or a quarter of a turn and then come back, and then go forward again. And it's a little tedious, but you'll do less damage to the threads which will make installing the new ones that much easier. And that's pretty much it for changing the O 2 sensors. Again, every 90,000 miles. You want to keep your vehicle running well. Keep your fuel economy down. And when you're ready to change them over you can give a call any of our knowledgeable salesmen - 1-800-533-2210.
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. all right so you've seen us tear this down now we're gonna go over the things that we need to do before we start assembling the heads as you can see we have everything here and let's start putting it together so now we're at the point now we want to assemble the heads before we set them up on the block so just for a breakdown this is basically what you're gonna be assembling here we'll start with the head assembly itself the things you want to check obviously are for a clean straight surface for the valve cover for the exhaust and then most importantly for the head to block connection and you can see we have this all cleaned up now what we did too is we had put a straight edge on this and we can and you can actually get them out of an any automotive center someone will even loan them to you but these straight edges are accurate to within a half a thousandth of an inch and you want to do a crisscross pattern and then a straight up pattern and you want to basically look for any spots where you could see light if you hold a flashlight behind it and what that does it tells you that at that point then the head would need to be reground this one was in good shape and the bottom line is you don't want to have to have it surfaced if you don't need to reason being is if it had already been surfaced and was with inspection you have it cut again when you cut these and you cut too much off of them it because of the V pattern on the block it draws the heads closer together so what happens then is you may be able to give all the heads down but when you put the lower intake manifold on all holes aren't going to line up they're now closer together and not where they should be in regard to the manifold so keep that in mind if you like you can actually go on some of the forms that are out there you can download a program called rave Rav II and that has the overhaul manual which will give you a lot of the specs for how far you can cut the heads your torque specs for all your bolts and some some of your assembly run down beside our video so all that information makes this a little bit easier so again in this hope we we check the surface we look there surfaces are good our bracket is on now this is the driver's side head we want to make sure your ground strap is on now one thing we want to check is the oil delivery holes that run oil up to the rockers okay the way they're mounted on top and you'll see you got basically a small hole here this is a 5/32 drill bit we're just going to run that down we want to make sure that one is nice and clear that looks good and this one we can feel some drag and sure enough we've got some sticky mung in there so we're gonna do is take some break clean and blow that out on the same token the coinciding openings in the rocker arms you have your oil delivery holes feed a small chamber on the bottom of the rocker and as you can see there we get some buildup actually quite a bit and that can also cause a lowering of the oil pressure to the rockers so we want to make sure that's open and clean so we're going to clean those out we're gonna make sure those are open and then the next step would be to get the exhaust manifold bolted on so you know which manifold it is on your left side head of the two manifolds the single bolt that single bolt will always point towards the front of the engine so when you set the manifold on place if that's up front this is the correct manifold now we're going to show you something else in regard to the exhaust manifold gaskets proper positioning would be like so nope sorry like so reason being is this cross piece here that connects the two ports is below the spark plug and the head bolt now as you can see these can be mounted upside down and should you make that mistake you are now blocking off access to the head bolt and to the spark plug so when you put these gaskets on it should look like this with that cross piece laying on the bottom and then the front would be exactly the same so from there then we're gonna put the exhaust manifold bolts on don't forget that you have spacers on these bolts I've had this in this little little tray soaking and penetrating oil just to get them lubed up so these are gonna be a 12 millimeter 12-point don't forget to make sure you put your spacer so it's going to be your gasket your manifold and your spacer and then we'll lock those down good and tight and then spark plugs now we find the champions seem to run the best in these four all four six engines especially with the Bosch so you're going to set your gap which is also in the the the rave I believe these are 35 to 42 usually some at about 35 because as they where they'll stay within the specifications now is a good time to install them because it's right here in front of you you can lock them down you don't want to make them too tight because basically you've got the aluminum heads you don't want to over tighten the plugs then you're going to take a lot of torque just want to make sure you snug them in and then last but not least and I always replace the studs you'll see on the manifold that you're missing your three studs that go down through the catalytic converters reason being for that in many cases by the time you're doing an engine job on this the threads are pretty well worn off you might have even had to heat them up taking it out now these are set so that you have two different length threads the shorter end is going to go into the manifold leaving the extended area and the barrel extended out so we're going to just replace all those and it's the same thing if you have a stud puller a lock on that'll do a good job if not you can take a pair of needle nose vise grip and grab the barrel don't grab the threads spin that on and so essentially you don't see any more threads on a short and then you know it's fully seated and that's pretty much it so that at this point now once we get everything cleaned off and together we've ready to put the head on the engine all right so here's our heads completed and put together exhaust manifold spark plugs the rockers are on but loose because they're gonna come back off again e-way what do we get the heads on but they're they're they're cysts in sending the heads in place and you'll see why in a few minutes the other thing I want to mention here's your head gasket you can see that on one side they apply some red sealer and what you're gonna look for is that word top so that means that when you set this in place this is the top side this is what's going to be facing the head and again you can also recognize that by the rent sealer you see that red sealer you should be seeing that when you place it on the floor now you also have a couple locating pins on the block so you'd be able to actually set the head gasket and it'll stay in place when we lower the head on it all right so you see what I've done basically just run to rags underneath the rockers so that when they loop them under and come back up I have a good handle and threads the bolts are in you know a good 5 or 6 threads you want them in there a little bit you want to make sure this doesn't come loose second thing you want to mention always put a fennec cover on because there's a good chance you can end up popping into this you don't want to hit the fender you don't want to cause it dead just something else to work on later down the line so we're gonna do then is just simply lift up on the head I can lower it down in set it in place I only need to move it a little bit and it should pop right on you have two locating pins on the block itself one here and one in the back and it's going to hold the head gasket in place as well so everything will be lined right up and then we can put some head bolts in and get things torqued in so we got the head in place the pins will hold that it's not going to go anywhere taking the rockers back off you just back off the four bolts set that to the side because it will eventually go back on we got to put the lifters and the push rods in so you'll notice that we if you notice when you pulled it apart you had three long head bolts in the top Center and then the rest the remaining seven are the shorter bolts and there's your difference in length so we're going to put one of the long bolts in the top on the short bolt in the bottom in the center and then we'll just think we're gonna run the bus to the bolts install them and then just run them down so they're just touching when they're just touching the head and then from that point we're gonna well torque them up according to specs now specs on these we're going to be tightening them all to 15 foot-pounds and then you're going to turn each one 90 degrees with a breaker bar and then wait about 10 15 minutes and then an additional 90 degrees now being on this case we're starting with the new blocks we've got nice clean threads in the block for the head bolts they had this should this be a youth block or and you're doing just the head gaskets you want to make sure you run a thread chaser down each one of those holes you want to get it all corrosion dirt anything out of those sometimes it's even best if you have access to compress there shoot a little solvent down in each hole and blow it out with the air holding a rag over it so obviously you don't get in your face and from that point this way you won't always want to start with clean threads it's also recommended that before you run each head bolt in what we're going to do is keep a little bit of oil then we're just going to simply dip the end in those head bolts before we install them and this way you'll end up with a much better torque rating you're not fighting against any dirt or any buildup in those threads they're gonna thread in nice and easy so once we get those to win and it's essentially same procedure for the rest of the rest of the head bolts we're just going to run them in so they just touching the head so now we get the head bolts snugged in what we're gonna do that before we torque up now I want to just run this by anytime you put a head or a manifold or or even a pan like a pan gasket or a transmission pan anytime you tighten up something like that you always start from the center so you can do either top or bottom doesn't matter but you start in the center and then you simply work across and then in a outward spiral in other words so we do the bottom Center top Center then we can go to the left do top and bottom we're gonna go over to the other side bottom and then top and then around the top to bottom bottom the top and that's the best way to torque up ahead what that does is reduces Distortion you get a better lock down on it and then believe it or not make for a better job when you've done this once I'm going to wait a minute or two and then go around one more time just to make sure they're all evenly torqued all right so should have mentioned earlier the head to these bolts are 5/8 which is basically the same thing as a spark plug socket so I've used the swivel spark plug socket to run them in especially in those back corners it works very well but now that we're going to go to the 90 degree twist you're going to be getting into a much higher torque so we're going to step up to 1/2 inch drive 24-inch break a bar with a 5/8 socket on the end so we'll start in the middle and we'll go exactly 90 degrees and you can plus or minus 10 degrees it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect there are gauges out there that are available that you can actually install before you put the bolt on or socket on and it will show you at 90 degrees but 90 degrees is pretty much just a straight angle so what we'll do see like in this case really can't get a good bite on anything where it's gonna be easy to figure out 90 there we go alright so essentially here's 0 so 90 degrees is you're gonna run into where the bar should end up actually just about perpendicular to the block and we're essentially just gonna do the same thing all the way around the same thing we're gonna figure about where ninety degrees is languages right up against the farm all right then just to make it easier because the hardest ball to get ad through this whole operation is this back head bolt because we actually have to turn it to a specific torque so we've got a five base deep 1/2 inch drive socket swivel socket so this way we can get in at an angle and we'll essentially going to set it up so that it will not only drop on but set the square in an accessible point and then we can figure out 90 degrees from there so at this stage of the game this is when it gets a little tough because now we're going to do the final 90 we've waited about 10 15 minutes we let things settle in on the first torque now with the additional 90 this is gonna bring you up to over one hundred foot-pounds of torque on an average so what you may need to do when it gets real tight and a cheater bar on to this we're going to see if we can go the full 90 without having to add it in this case I think what we're going to do is because 90 is gonna put us past the firewall we're gonna go 45 and then pull this back and reset it and do the additional 45 so that's essentially the procedure for installing ahead and torquing down on their head gaskets now we're just going to do passenger's side exact same process as we did on the driver's side so next step is gonna be to install the push rods in the rockers now what he did was we cleaned up these push rods you want to put them on a nice smooth surface you want to roll them just to make sure nothing is bent you also want to check both ends kind of run your thumb nail over it if you have a if you have an error you're gonna just catch a little step at the bottom but if it feels really rough or even sharp edge you want to replace that push rod so we have all 16 all cleaned up nice and we've got the lifters in place so we're going to go back over to that engine and set things up all right first things first and I've seen guys do this these lifters come in and out of here fairly easy look at that making sure your gonna put that in facing up and not that end I've seen it done they just got to basically wiggle it'll seat in place they're all pretty well oiled because they've been soaked and you're gonna get down through the hole and you're gonna set up all your push rods make sure you go through the guides there's little holes there in the head that guide the top of the push rod all right so we're gonna set the rocker in place now remember we're gonna make sure you've got here's your rounded area where your push rods are going to seat and of course the flatlands end up on the valves so we'll just set this gently in place you want to get the bolts lined up now you got to remember that right now you're going to have there's going to be some of these push rods or in the up position because the cam they're writing directly on the cam which is going to create spring pressure on the rocker arm so when we tighten this down we just want to go a little bit at a time until we seat the rocker down on the head and then we'll put the torque wrench on it and torque specs on these are 28 foot-pounds once we have the all these bolts seated and we're just going to use a ratchet and a socket to see them down then we'll torque up the specs so we got the rockers down in place the rocker shaft will actually the lands are seated on the head so now we don't have to worry about working against spring pressure the reason we did that was because you could possibly bend that rocker shaft if you could torque one end down and the other has spring pressure it actually creates a force that can bend them so now that they're seated we'll start in the middle we've got their torque wrench set at 28 foot-pounds do the two in the middle and then we go to the outside and we do it one more time just so that we know we have an even torque on all four bolts okay it's pretty much it so now we just do the same on the other side and we'll have our rockers and push rods in place so our next step is we're gonna put the lower intake manifold on to do so you're gonna grab the two end seals that come in your gasket set your Valley pan gasket and then of course the intake and basically what we've done is we clean this off so we get a nice smooth surface on both sides and you're gonna need a 3/8 drive torque wrench now you can use a long extension with a swivel end I just happen to have this tool just makes it a little bit easier this is essentially a 13 millimeter swivel on an already built onto the extension gasket scraper in case you need a final cleanup of course a ratchet extension on now this is a tool that's similar to what the factory calls for and it makes it a lot easier to get to the bolts once you get things in place to torque them up you're gonna put this on the torque wrench it's essentially a 13 millimeter 12 point with 3/8 drive can be referred to as a crow foot sometimes socket extension there's a number of different names for them but this does make the job a lot easier so what we do is start off is we're going to take some of the we'll take some of the high tack and we're going to put a little coating on both sides of the heads I don't recommend using RTV on the gasket surfaces but we are gonna use some to seal up where you've got a couple different components like where the head meets the block and where the front cover meets but mostly just the two areas that where the where the head meets the blocks you have four points so we've done that we're going to let that tack up a little bit and then essentially we're going to take some of the RTV now right here you can actually see a little valley right where the head meets the block what we want to do is we want to fill that with some RTV this will help prevent oil we Benji and we'll let that set up for a few minutes you might get a little tacky so you'll notice the end seals basically conformed to the block so one side is fairly straight the other has a curve to it and you'll see that in the gasket as well plus on the end here you have a little wedge that drops down into that area that we are TV so it's going to push some there now in the manual it tells you to reply just put one little beat of our TV but I usually do it twice down in that Valley and then I'll do it one more time over the top before we put the pan gasket on so we got the two end seals in place a little Dabba RTV again on the corners just to give a little extra missile BC just a little extra protection against an oil leak we're gonna set the pan in place or the bolt holes you can look straight down and we'll push that down into place the next are your to hold down plates now if you remember when we took this apart we put this aside so that the two bolts that hold these down they're a little different than the bolts that are in the rest of the bar so you want to make sure that you've put these aside so we're gonna very gently lower the intake sort of in place but just a little ahead so we can reach in the back and then you've got a fuel line I've got to go on then you want to make sure you hear that click once you got it on there now if you look at the ten bolts that go in this item are all the same length there are two long ones and they're gonna go in the front here and then once we get them all started we're going to torque them down now the factory calls for a sequence to start with seven foot-pounds then all the way around again in 13 foot-pounds and then a final tighten in a 38 most of your 3h drive torque wrenches are not going to get down to seven pounds so I usually set mine at ten and then I'll do 20 and then we do 38 all the way around and even then we'll let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and then go 38 one more time around just to make sure everything's torqued down nice and tight and the gaskets been compressed so just like we mentioned with the heads anytime you torque down a head or a manifold anything like that to reduce the amount of distortion we're going to start from the center and then work our way around into a spiraling outward pattern and so we've talked them all as I said we're gonna do in different come we'll do 10 20 and then 38 and then after the 38 we're going to wait about 10-15 minutes and then do 38 again just to make sure everything's down and tightened properly all right so before we put the valve covers on we have an actual bolt that goes up into the back of the head that runs through that bracket right there and what that does is holds the harness in place right about there so we need to attach that and then we also need to attach the ground strap and if you'll notice on this you'll see a green wire with a loop that's also going to go to that ground post all right so now is the point you definitely want to plug in this is for the crank sensor you're going to see the the tab right here that lot latches on to that little notch so essentially that's the wrong way that's the right way plugged this together you should hear a little click when that blocks in and then there's a bracket on the back that you're not going to be able to see this video that this hooks into to keep it from banging around in there this is a really bad connector to try to get to alright so next is gonna be your valve covers now first thing I do if you notice there's a rag sitting on top of the intake manifold we want to cover those holes you're going to be handling small bolts god forbid you drop one and it goes down they'll put one of those ports and fish it out you'll end up taking the intake back off to get at it so we put a rag over there as protection and then what we've done is we've prepped the valve covers we've shot high tech on the inside areas of both valve covers and on the areas of the gasket itself that will lay on the surface reason for that is that when it gets good and tacky we let it sit for about 15 minutes you put your gasket on the valve cover it's gonna stick and it's going to hold to it otherwise trying to hold on to that and keep it from falling in and unsettling is just a royal pain so this way gas gets stuck to the valve cover we run our bolts down we line it up so much easier now remember that these bolts are eight millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you pull that tool out and clean the bolts up a little bit just give him a little shoot down with some brake clean or whatever it's a little cleaner before you install alright so just as a note there's a groove cut on one side of the valve cover gasket and then one side is actually relatively flat except for one raised rib that's the area that's gonna make contact with the head so the groove the area actually seats all the way around in the valve cover make sure that all four your spacers are president they didn't drop out of the gasket and then we'll get them relatively close and then essentially put the four bolts in and remember you've got the two short on the inside part of the engine and the two long on the outside closer to the exhaust manifold so your passenger side first that has your oil fill tube now remember this is a Bosch engine where your fill tube is on the passenger side of course on a Jemez engine you're gonna find it on the driver's side no all we did was just basically hold up the wiring hard-ass sneak that in and then visually give a look at where the bolts line up and you can kind of wiggle it back and forth and you'll feel one of the little bolts kind of drop down in there what we're going to do is and we'll get them all started now the book says to torque to two and a half foot pounds you're gonna need a very small almost like a dial type quarter inch drive torque wrench if you want to torque it up it's two and a half pounds to do all four and then you go up to six pounds is the final torque on on all four bolts so one sides torqued in place and then simply we're just gonna do the exact same on the other side and before you started tightening bolts down because of all is wiring in one eye you just want to make sure you don't have a wire pinched between the valve cover and the head anywhere in the front or the back will lead the problems later on down the line so same thing with this side we've got some wires hanging around so we want to make sure that we don't get them we don't get them caught up in the valve cover and it's pretty much to it on those alright so they would have the valve covers in place we got the lower intake in place at this point we can grab the main harnesses we can kind of set them in place now in most cases when you when you first took this apart you had basically tie straps that went into these these four locations so of course they get brittle they fall apart you try to open them up they break so you can do it one of two ways you can actually wire tie it directly just loop under and wire tie it or I know a lot of automotive centers have the wire ties with what they call a little Christmas tree attached to them and that Christmas tree will pop right into those holes and wire tie the harness in place and that's what we're going to do with this but this way at least pull the harness out you'll also notice that there is one more green wire on this now if you have like a 2001 and later you probably aren't going to find these green wires this isn't this was a I think this was also this was a 2000 but you've seen this on the early disco twos don't see it so much on the later so if you don't see the green wires don't panic it's not that they're missing that just on that particularly design they're not used so don't worry about that rest of it this harness will get down the side of the bracket what we're really thinking about right now is we're going to put the main harness back in this place and then we're gonna plug in all the injectors and then this small bolt right here on the fuel rail is going to be the bolt we're gonna run out and then we're gonna attach that green wire right here for that round idle air control the one wire you want to be concerned with this wires for the knock sensor this is going to run all the way down and underneath you just want to make sure we get that down there because once we get the bracket and the alternator in place or I'm sorry the power steering pump in place we don't want to pinch that wire we want to make sure we put that in a good spot all right bingo okay that's good for now and then as we go along we'll be plugging everything else in all right so at this point now we're back underneath the vehicle we've got to get a few things connected yet now that one harness that has the lead for the starter the starter wire and for the knock sensor on the right hand side we got to sneak that through a hall that is on the upper back side of the mount so that it comes through to just above the starter so you got here's the end of your started connection this is going to go on to this nut here there's a small Spade pushing right on that right over the top of this stud and nut that's your for your s wire that'll be this lead right here and then you also have your connector that you're going to push in you're going to click into your knock sensor right here then once we've done that then we can sneak the heatshield in there and get that popped in place before we put the exhaust on so getting the shield back up in there sort of a bit of a magic trick this bracket tucked up into the all right you know we work on trying to get there's a tab on the end of this that drops into a hole which will help line up just kind of working back and forth until we find it there we go all right and that puts that in place so if you have a mirror what you can do is actually look up inside the mount the see if the holes lined up or not once we determine it isn't it or it isn't turn it the way we need to turn it to get it to line up all right so this is what the finished product should look like this clip is locked around the solenoid your wiring is protected from the heat from the heat shield and then the front bolt is in and locked in place so this is good and solid not going anywhere so now we just quickly we're gonna look through the other side and here we have the other knock sensor we've plugged that in and you'll notice that this loop lines right up with this hole right here and so what we're going to do is go find a bolt put the bolt in there and then that will lock that one piece of wire right there in place so keep it secure and then we can put the exhaust back up in place so now we're ready to put the exhaust up in place we've got to get your to hold gasket up in there and usually can push it up in place I always like to start on the driver's side and leaves me some flexibility on the passenger side we're not gonna run the nuts up tight initially we just want to get them up in place and then the front part is essentially getting up in there to get the gasket on this is actually sometimes a little easier from up top it says we're just gonna lay the gasket right over the opening we'll line up the holes all right so we're gonna hook the exhaust stop we find it's a lot easier to get to this passenger side setup then from underneath because you got the driveshaft and everything else in a way so we're just gonna sneak down in there then we're gonna slide the gasket up over the studs so we can raise that up and it's gonna take a little take a little doing but it will go and we got one two and three and then you can just raise the exhaust up you have to reach down in pull up on the exhaust and slide the studs over with one arm hold it up and the other we're gonna just put one nut on to help support it all right so we've got that side hooked up basically just got the three bolts and I just want to make note don't forget now's a good time to plug in that o2 sensor and then tuck the wire in back behind the right side head and it'll keep it out of the way the exhaust well it's just to give you a shot what we've done on the passenger's side you're going to leave the nuts loose you got allow for some slack and now we're going to pop the driver's side on all right so basically at this point now we've got the six nuts in on the exhaust we're going to run them up we got them completely tight as far as torque specs because of the long extension you need to get up there a torque wrench isn't going to be accurate anyway so you just want to essentially just get them good and tight and then don't forget to plug in your o2 sensor connector on the driver's side and we're going to tuck that back in behind the bracket so next what we're going to do is we'll get these transmission coolant lines back up in place gonna have to do a little don't be a little pushing in pollen but we essentially need to twist it get this one up into this upper clip the lower one into the lower clip and then we'll show you where the other one goes alright so we're gonna install the bracket now that supports the AC compressor and the steering pump you want to make sure if you have an oil cooler equipped vehicle you want to make sure that the one line for the oil cooler underneath is back in behind the bracket also your wire going down to your your knock sensor you want to make sure that's clear and then basically you're going to set it up on that stud that's on the front of the head and that's going to come through this hole right in top of the power steering pump and we just slide that again double-check your wire make sure it's not pinched in there and we'll put the put the top bolt on you'll feel the thread they line right up alright so we'll put the other two bolts on and then we have the nut that goes on the sword and the single bolt up top and then we're just gonna run those in tight just quickly before I run them in just to show you where the bolts out where the locations are the nut and the single bolt up top this is a ten millimeter head these are all going to be thirteen and just going to set them up good and tight okay one thing I'm going to mention about this oil cooler the one line that we snuck in behind the bracket obviously attaches down underneath and gets locked down but to put it in the right position what we're going to need to do is we've we don't want to set it up on this bracket right away we're gonna leave this off we got to get underneath we're gonna essentially put the other end of the tube up into its location by the filter leave that nut loose then get back up in here set the bolt up in this so now the hose is in its proper position there's no tension on any of the parts and then we go back down torque the the nut that secures it to the oil filter housing and then back up to tighten this one alright so what we're going to do next is we're gonna hook up the upper this is the lines for the heater hoses for your heating system I'm gonna move that out of the way and then put a little replace this whole ring and then put a little Vaseline on there so it slips in this way it won't pinch it as we go in it's kind of a tight fit alright so next I'm gonna show it's already connected but just to remind you we're gonna connect you got this you got a black connector here and that's going to go to the cam sensor don't forget it because it's kind of out of sight so underneath the water pump and you don't see it so you don't want to forget connecting that you're going to need that so you can start the vehicle then you also got your oil pressure center right here we've connected those and now what we're going to do is put the other line on for the oil cooler don't forget gotta make sure you put your you put your new o-ring on make sure that can spin all right so now I'll show you we put the lower hose in place you have the one down tube goes into the small opening the long neck is what attaches to the water pump and then the short loop this goes to the angled upward outlet of the thermostat okay just so you have a note top of the thermostat has two outlets you have one that goes up at an angle and one that comes straight up the one at an angle is what's going to get down to the lower hose this one's going to go to the upper hose we'll show you that when we get to that point so now we're just going to squeeze the clamp sign get those into place you can see we got our electrical connections in place and we have this hose in and now the upper hose this has got a short bolt that goes into the bottom and that's been installed and tightened up so then we're going to be ready to put that last bracket in alright so let's get that bracket down in place you can see we've got one two three four bolts that run through so here's the lower on the inside it's the easy one to see this way we can line that up and get that started and that'll make lining up the other three that much easier okay next is gonna be the cooling tube you can see we've got this torqued in place does this say hoses on we got some stuff here that eventually is going to get bolted to this bracket right now we just need to get these on so the tube essentially is tucked in right in the front of the intake manifold you've got an old ring on the back you want to make sure you put a new oil ring there we're going to put a little Vaseline on that and then just to get things started we'll put one bolt in there we'll need about a six or eight inch extension and a ten millimeter socket the reason we put this on after the brackets because there's a support bracket right here that bolts to the alternator support so you need that in place before you can put this tube in so now it's just a matter of we put that one bolt in there and then we're going to put one in the support bracket to support it alright so we put a bolt here in the support bracket so now this will just hold it in place and we can sneak in underneath and install these other bolts all right and now for the fun part in their infinite wisdom Land Rover puts the ignition coils buried back behind the upper plenum so in other words if we put the plan of mine you'd be almost impossible to put this on first off you can't even get to the bottom bolts once the plenum is in place and you can't really tighten them until you put the upper bolts in so what we normally do is we will lay this in place we'll put the two bottom bolts in and we're just gonna just snug them and then back them off just a little bit enough to give a little bit of movement the reason being is when we put the upper plenum on that has to slide underneath these holes so we've got to have some movement in there so that we can line them up and you were going to use the top bolts to secure this in place all right so we're gonna do we're going to drop this into place but before we go trying to put the bolts in place we have the two electrical connectors there's one and there's the other and each one of these gets plugged into each side this powers this side coil this powers this side and then basically one coil will power four cylinders and each coil pack has actually two individual coils built into it the other thing what we're gonna do is before we even grab those little bolts we're gonna put a rag over the top here because god forbid we dropped one down in the hole it will not be fun fishing it out all right so we got both the holes lined up we've got one started on one side now you can see these are hard to get at so if you put a little dab of our TV or you can even use grease and we're gonna do is put that on that socket and that's gonna hold that bolt so we can sneak it down in there location so we can get it started and then we're gonna do the same we did with the other one we'll run it down Snug it in and then just basically back it off about a half a turn just to allow enough slack so it'll wiggle so we can get those top bolts set alright so now we're gonna put the plug wires in now you'll notice most of the plug wire sets even after market for these are numbered you can see here's number one number three number five number seven so there's one three five seven two four six eight same thing on the other side so we're gonna just start plugging these in and what I do is I like to give a little shot a silicon in each one four one makes it go on easier adds a little extra protection to the boot and this way you feel the distinct set in when you put the boot on the plug you should actually kind of feel it click in just put that in your hold it right there and so that's seven threes number five it's gonna go in the middle right here I should hear that click then we'll just do the same thing to the other side alright so now we've got that all set up in the back we're gonna put the upper plenum on don't forget your steel gasket you've cleaned off the top surface of the lower manifold you have to raise dowels on here that are gonna basically give you the right location that's going to hold the gasket in place and then the manifold we self is gonna click on to those as well now if you get one it's a little stubborn we just put a socket over it now what we're gonna do is we're gonna set the manifold in place let's pull this up because we're gonna need this this will go on your idle air control motor because of the way this is set up when we put the plenum on we're gonna need to lift the front it's going to drop in we line it up with the front dowel lower it down and then lock it on to that dowel and then from there once we lock once we put the bolts in and lock down the upper plenum then we have to reach in the back and line up these two holes and run two bolts down through and this will actually bolt to the back of the upper plenum alright so now we're ready to put the upper plenum on we've taken the studs out of the sides and you can either put the studs back in after you put this in place or you can just get some six millimeter bolts three-quarters of an inch long and they'll work just as well so by doing that though it gives us a little more freedom to move this around and get it in place essentially what you're going to be doing is on the back the manifold you have these two bosses that come out these are the two bolt holes for the bolts that hold the top of the coil that goes over the top of this so what we're gonna do is go in in an angle and then drop it down and then move it so that we it drops on to the two locating dowels and once that's in place then it's just put the bolts in and lock them down and what I've done to is to save a little time you can bend this back out of the way here's the single bolt that we left in the manifold when we took this apart so we can just leave it in there and then of course it's going to go in in this position so I remember you've got a sink also a single bolt in the back and a single bolt in the front beside the three long ones that you're going to torque down so now it's just a matter of set this in place you may need a flashlight when you can see what you're doing is simply gonna walk this back slowly you can actually see how everything lines up all right so we've got our hardware right here take our three bolts drop those in and if you can't quite get your fingers in these front and back bolts what I've used is a tool and I'll show you in a second is a tool that called expanding fingers and it will grab around the head bolt and you can actually run it down spin it in and then come in with a socket extension a ratchet to torque it down all right so you can see what the tool does it'll actually hold the bolt on the end it gives you access to do a deeper area right here and you just run your finger down through the feel for the hole and by grabbing the head of the bolt you can actually use the tool to spin it in until you feel it seat down and we'll just do the rest with the socket and we'll do the same with the front bolt sleep in there yeah all right all right so we'll get a 10-millimeter socket extension ratchet and we'll torque those down all right so there is no torque spec listening and Land Rover's overhaul manual specifically for these bolts they have a general a general chart eight millimeter bolts they recommended torque to 13 foot-pounds I think that's a little bit on the loose side I don't have an exact torque spec to recommend but you see what I essentially do is run them until they're snug and then just give them just a little twist just to add some tension let them sit for a couple seconds and then go back and start from the middle and just will go around twice just to make sure everything is tight and even all right so now at this point we have this torque down now's a good time what we're gonna do is we're gonna connect the throttle body heater hoses remember we have this long one over here this is gonna go across because once you put your alternator and your AC compressor back in it's kind of tough to get them in there so I'll do those then you also have your PCV breather hose right here that's gonna go onto this spigot you want to check this black this black spigot or nipple on those because these have a tendency to loosen up so you want to make sure you snug that in you don't want any vacuum leaks there and of course plug in this is the vacuum line over to your brake booster you're gonna plug that in and then what you have right here is the one heater hose that has the hole for a bolt or where the stud was through the side you want to reattach that and then your other heater hose tube or lay up over the top we're gonna put a new bolt in there so that's essentially we're just gonna hook up all the in celery's we've also got for your emission controls you have your your control solenoid here this is going to plug into the throttle body and then your connector for your idle air motor so all that gets connected to this upper plenum and then we can go on to the next step the first one and the fun part is getting those two bolts for the coil to the manifold lined up because you're essentially going to do that by feel what you can do is you can move this big harness a little more out of the way so you can get your hand down in there and the rest is pretty much done by feel and this is why we leave the bottom bolts a little loose on that coil mount so that we can rock this back and forth and eventually get the hole lined up and get the bolt started yeah take a little patience a little time but you'll get it all right so here's a good example you find yourself having a hard time getting that ball lined up if you can get up like I have an expanding mirror that I can use in the back any mural work but what you can do that is angle it down so you can get a look at why you're not able to line up and you'll see like on this one what we've got to do is be able to move that bracket forward and we don't I didn't quite leave it loose enough on the bottom to do that so what we do is we take a little pry bar and then we just just gently move it back a little bit and now we know we can see the holes are lined up put a bolt in there get that lock down all right and then what we're gonna do next is put the throttle and the cruise control cable hook up on here because these two bolts at least one of them is sort of covered by the AC compressor so we're gonna put that off this way the whole upper plenum is all together by the time we're ready to put our two-inch hilary's on and our idler pulleys so you got two eight millimeter head bolts here I'll hook up that bracket we just sort of snug it and what you'll need to do is go to full open throttle you'll see a little slot in the top there slide the barrel in and then line up the slot to pop it fully in place just to make sure it's in there completely you know so you should be able to swivel that little barrel in there so then you know you're in properly and then the same thing with the cruise control slide that over so it lines up with the groove all right you should just have some slight tension on it should have just a little bit of free play on that not much and I will just get up millimeter socket tighten that up and we'll have everything together on the plane all right so just a quick review on the upper plenum because we want to make sure so we've tightened down the four bolts up top one in the back one one in the front for a total of six you have your connection here for your idle air motor you have your connection here for your admission control this is for the evap system this is the OP the purge valve so you have your electrical connection and then you have your hose connection right here this is just a pop in your breather hose and your throttle position sensor you've got your connector up in here so we're we're good there your two heater hoses to the throttle body heater and they're on nice and snug and they're in the back and then of course your two bolts and then we just showed you how to put the throttle cables on and we'll go around to the other side and we'll do a quick review on that all right and then on the passenger side course we have our the breather hoses connected and this clamp is on we've plugged in our vacuum line that feeds our brake vacuum booster our two heater hoses we have the Bolton on top that locks the two brackets so the hoses the metal hoses together along with the single bolt down now I'm going to make a note on this that on these engines without secondary air there's a spacer that goes between this hose bracket and the upper plenum and you would have found that when you took it off sometimes after these vehicles that they've been worked on once before somebody didn't put that spacer back in just a couple flat washers works just fine so that's in place and then of course everything else lines up here now you'll see two and this is kind of a neat trick you can actually take a razor knife and cut this rubber connector for these two hoses though you don't need to all right but just a note and then what we're gonna do then is you can see we have some exposed wire down here that I really don't like we're gonna get some plastic convolute to go over the top of that before we attach everything to this bracket and then we're ready to put the AC compressor and the alternator on alright so next step was what we're gonna do we're gonna tie in the heater hose you have there's actually a threaded hole behind this opening that's going to bolt and support this line up against the alternator mounting bracket and then you see you got two little brackets right here what you're going to want to use is this is a tie strap with what they call a Christmas tree on the end of it so you can wrap it around the wiring here and then plug the Christmas tree into that and that'll basically hold this up in here now as you just can see the old cover has starting to fall is falling off on this leaving the wire insulation exposed you see this piece right here I've installed just to cover up the wiring there we're gonna do the same with this we're gonna replace that convolute like I said you can buy that in any automotive center and then you've got your ground wire right here and that's going to be bolted right in this position from the front there's a threaded hole on the front of the bracket so then that'll get this all set so then the next step will be both the alternator and the AC compressor so just to give you a little overall look what we have is so you're our ground line is attached here our bracket that comes off of this hose is attached here we replaced convolute over the exposed wiring and then we've taken the wire ties with the Christmas trees and put them in place so that everything is essentially in its place so now we're ready to put the alternator on so alternator mounts on this bracket and what you have are these sliding shoes basically that are used to install the alternator and what they do is they actually slide within the bracket most cases once you've taken the alternator out and pried it out this one's already back in place this one you can I'll show you see how it hangs out leaves and area there you take your hammer and open up the space so the alternator will just drop in when you tighten it up it pulls those shoes in and locks everything in place and the only two wires that you need to attach are going to be your battery feed cable and then your field wire and you can see essentially just on the back of the alternator you've only got two positions so it's kind of hard to get it wrong and the alternator obviously is going to set in this position so we're gonna hook our wiring up first and then we're gonna set the alternator in there and then just as a tip there's a lot of hardware put aside on this and there's a lot of bigger bolts as we get towards the end as far as the hanging brackets the plainer why not you'll notice that the two alternator bolts have this goldish tone they're an anodized bolt so if you're not quite sure what bolts go on the alternator look for this gold-tone on the shaft and the size of the bolt and then those will be the correct ones for the alternator so next is gonna be the AC compressor and as you can see basically you just have four bolts up top there is a locating dial here which will help you to get it set up and located now as you remember we didn't have to disconnect the AC lines this is just been sitting here waiting for us to put it back together and what I normally do is before you slide the sign you got this back left-hand corner bolt always put that on first cuz what's gonna happen is when you get the compressor here in line you're not going to be able to install this bolt because the throttle linkage is going to be in a way so before you set it in grab one your alternator bolts and it'll actually help you line up a little better because that will locate in the back hole and then you've got your dowel in the front and now we'll just drop our three remaining bolts in this one will obviously have to put in tighten up with a wrench the other three if you have compressed air you can run it in with that or just do all them with a socket and a ratchet all right so now we're gonna start putting the pulleys on so we can get the belt on now one thing we did notice when we got into it this the original tensioner was binding up the to bet the two idlers one of them felt kind of rough so we actually offered this kit we can get both the idler pulleys and the tensioner if you're gonna put a new motor in you don't need any future problems for the low-cost that you can get this kit for it's well worth putting in you don't have to deal with the belt problem so what we're going to do then is we're going to install these and then we've got to put the water pump pulley on and the power steering pump which is just a matter of flying up the pulleys put your bolts in and tighten them up but just so you know you'll see that the two idlers are of different sizes the smaller pulley is going to be mounted here so you're going to want to put the tensioner on first and then the small pulley and then your large pulley is going to be located right here and then at that point we'll put the other two on alright so here's what the pulleys look like installed like I said small and on the bottom big one up top and then you want to give a little test spin just to make sure they're seated properly ok so spins got a little bit of resistance which is good that's a nice tight bearing and then the tensioner and then you always want to look in the back and make sure that the back of this is seated flat there's a locating pin that drops in so you're gonna slide that pin in to the hole in the back side of the bracket and then just move this up until your bolt drops in tighten it up and you're good alright so next is going to be water pump pulley and power steering pulley alright before you put the power steering pulley on and I've seen it done because it can be mounted in either direction so what you're going to do is basically look at the pulley and you're going to see the imprint of the I guess I would call the triangle of the pyramid which is the surface that's going to ride on the pond the pump itself you'll see the imprint on one side on the other you won't so obviously then this is the proper side to install against the power steering pump there is a difference in the offset so if you do install it backwards the belts not gonna line up right so you want to make sure you see that imprint and then on the water pump pulley you will see where there are marks on the ball holes where the original bolts went so you just want to reuse those because this way you know everything's gonna line up right so on the water pump pulley what I like to do is I'll turn this so that I've got one threaded hole straight up so I have an orientation because once I go to slide the pulley over I can't see those we'll set that bolt right in place and it's sort of lining up and you just roll it around a little bit to let bolt lines right up slight this up over the hub put the other two on now these don't require a great amount of torque and you can actually when you go to tighten these you can actually get your hand wrapped around that pulley and be able to tighten it again look for the tripod point that straight up it aligns itself right up alright so then we just put the last remaining two bolts in and then we get everything tightened up all right so now comes the fun part we're gonna put the belt on if you didn't take a picture before he took it apart to give you an idea of how its routed this is the best way to go about it we're gonna phone basically the belt like so and we've done a sag or a loop in the center and that loop is going to go around the power steering pulley okay then we're gonna go up and over the AC compressor and we're gonna go up and over the alternator around the tensioner and at this point we're not gonna worry about that little pulley and you'll see why in a minute then we're going under that made the steering too damp the crankshaft pulley up and over power steering pulley and around this larger idler yeah some things you got a slight go to get up so what that essentially does gets everything in place now of course rib side of the belt will always be on the ribs pulleys so you have alternator AC compressor power steering pump lower deeper and tension or old ribs so you should have rib sight on there now what we do is we take our wrench now this is a different size than the original with this kit they originally you'd have a 15 millimeter here but they have stepped up to a 16 millimeter put that up and won't push it down we're simply gonna just give us enough room to slide that belt up and over the little pulley and then before you take all let allow all the tension on there just a quick feel to make sure that the belt is fully seated and all the other pulleys wet up and there you are belts in place so next step then is going to be putting the fan shroud and the fan on and your upper radiator hose alright so very important we don't want to forget the dipstick now these use a very high vacuum PCV system as well as the emission control is also incorporated on there so literally any vacuum leak can create a drivability issue on these so when I put the dipstick in we're gonna actually run a bead of black RTV right around the base of this neural this is what seats down on the block where when we insert this and this way by the time we actually get to the point where we're ready to start it this will be pretty well be setup so we know we got a good seal so that's really all we're gonna do is throw a little little black RTV on that take our finger and just run around about the thickness of that raised area tick-tick-tick to and then we're just gonna basically slide it right down the hole see your hole right there now slide right in and then you have a threaded hole right here on the side of the valve cover and you flip this up this is going to line right up with it there and then once we run that screw in there let that our TV set up we'll be all set and then we can actually put our dipstick right inside the tube all right and of course you want to plug in your AC compressor and that's your great plug connector right here you push that into you hear the click and just put this down where it's really not rubbing against anything too severely and then we just have the one wire here for the mass air flow sensor we'll put that to the side all right so now what we're going to do is we're going to put the lower shroud in for the fan there are just bay there's two clips that attach on the bottom and then two Phillips screws on each side here then they're gonna hold that lock that down and then the fan and then the upper shroud and then the actually it's going to be the lower shroud the fan and we're going to do the radiator hose one thing I want to mention on these lay the thermostat if you taking a good look right here top of the thermostat has two outlets one goes off at about a forty degree angle one points straight up they're both the same size and I have seen where somebody could actually install it with this reversed which will actually cause an overheating problem so you want to make sure that the angled outlet goes to the lower hose which goes down to the water pump and the straight up is going to go to the upper radiator hose which also attaches here and here but just keep that note so the angle to the water pump straight up to the upper radiator all right so we put our Stroud we got two Phillips screws grab the bottom we pull out make sure that those tabs on the bottom if holding it in place and we just slide the fan in and we try to get it as square as possible you do I do it just the back of my hand up against the front of the fan clutch and if you just work it real slow eventually you'll hit a spot where it'll feel like the threads will catch and then from there you can just spin it on all right so I've put the upper hose in place but I want to show you basically how it looks should look when it's installed your so you have your bleeder cap right here your joined here at that front tube upper radiator and then of course down on the thermostat clamps are in place and you want to make sure you can feel that bulb that little bulge at the end of the nipples that you attach these to and they're there so that with the clamp behind it there's no chance of it coming off it's just a little security measure they built into these so you would just want to make sure the clamp is below or behind that bulge so that you know you've got it in a proper position all right so essentially we're ready at this point we've gotta just put the top cover on which is four screws that only turn the eternal 90 degrees in there in and then we'll put the air filter in the hose in and then we can put on our final colon line which is the overflow or the vent line that goes across into the expansion tank okay actually we're gonna do is we're going to put this the vent blind on now because this cover actually goes over the top of it you see these two raised areas right here actually is the channel that this is gonna rest in kind of acts as a sort of a support we just push that on there what I would suggest is if this host feels brittle at all nodes if you can't take it and flex it like that it feels like it's gonna crack and split replace it because more unlikely it's exactly what it's going to do very soon and you certainly don't want to risk your your new engine and all your work on a relatively inexpensive hose same thing were there anything else wearable on the engine if you're gonna put the time and money put a new engine on if the old hoses feel dried out put new hoses on it I've done that with every engine I've put in new hoses new belt anything basically rubber and flexible it's not worth the risk it's worth a little extra money for the security of knowing you've got a good system in there so it around a little bit so it lines up you see the cutout on the side there's for that hose you got one hop and just turn 90 degrees and you'll actually feel the screw come to a stop when it seats in there we go and just squeeze that upper hose a little bit and pop that right in place we're pretty much assembled there and now we just need to hook up the intake tube and the air filter assembly right just to make it easier now Chris the air filter you pulled it out so you get the idea it's basically a pop in I like to do is I shoot a little silicone spray on those rubber rubber sets that that goes into it just
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Customer service was great, helpful and very knowledgeable. This is my go to website when I need parts for my LR3 2006.
10 days ago
Your wide range of parts, easy to use web site and the ability to contact you directly for information and assistance.
11 days ago
Always knowledgeable when i need some direction. Parts are fantastic.
13 days ago
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Reviews from our Customers...
FAST Shipping! Call these Folks they have all the answers to your part installation.
-Bill M. (Boydton,VA)
Great customer service, very knowledgeable staff. Everyone I have worked with are Land Rover owners- which is a big help for knowing the vehicles.
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
FAST Shipping! Call these Folks they have all the answers to your part installation.
-Bill M. (Boydton,VA)
Great customer service, very knowledgeable staff. Everyone I have worked with are Land Rover owners- which is a big help for knowing the vehicles.
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
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