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fuel filter videos
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in replacing the fuel filter on a Discovery I 1994 - 1999. Using our
fuel filter kit # 8989, it is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced every 45,000 miles on a D1. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: 8989 Replacing Fuel Filter On Discovery I, 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications, Also Range Rover Classic 1987 - 1995Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we are going to touch on one of our service and maintenance kits we have available for the Discovery 1, which will be the fuel filter. Now this is an item that normally gets neglected. A lot of people don't think about it. And a lot of your newer vehicles don't have inline filters any more. But, on these vehicles, the inline filter means a lot. And what this does is pre-filter any contaminants, dirt, whatever that may be included in the fuel that you get from the gas station. You don't know how old their tanks are. Because you don't need that material making its way up to the top of the injectors where it can plug them off and create fuel delivery issues. So you want to keep a good clean filter in there. Now they do last for a relatively long time. We recommend every 45,000 miles you should change the filters. By doing so will also help the longevity of your fuel pump because a clogged oil filter just makes the pump work harder trying to push fuel through it. Now in the kit you'll receive a new filter. You receive a new hold down bracket. 2 attachment hoses. 4 new clamps. And a new hold down bolt for the clamp. So you pretty much have everything you need to do a complete repair because you'll probably find the original connecting hoses will be dried out. Your clamps will be rusted. The hold down bolt more than likely you'll end up if it hasn't been changed in a while will probably end up snapping because of rust. At least up in our area where we see a lot of salt on the road, generally that bolt is rusted up pretty good. So this gives you pretty much everything you need. Now what we're going to do is we'll have this D1 up in the air and we'll show you where that fuel filter is located.And that's pretty much it. So when you're ready to change over the fuel filter in your D1, and this will also be the same application on the Classic, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in replacing the
fuel filter for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS Engine. Using kit # ESR4065, it is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced every 60,000 miles. Kit #: ESR4065 Replacing the Fuel Filter on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to show you the fuel filter replacement kit that is part of our repair and maintenance academy program. This is part of our program that you can go online to our website. You can download the actual maintenance program. This is all based on the intervals that Land Rover recommends for the vehicle. This will be for the 1995 to 1999 GEMS engine Full Size Range Rover. You can refer to our past video that shows you how to identify whether you have a GEMS or a BOSCH. This is the sheet that you can download off of our website that describes the entire kit. The fuel filter kit. Kit K is ESR4065. And what you do is receive a brand new fuel filter on that and you'll see that this has a fitting on both sides and in a minute we are going to show you how to install this filter.And there you go. You've changed your fuel filter. So when you're ready to change your fuel filter you can give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and any of our knowledgeable salesmen will be happy to help you. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in replacing the
fuel filter on a 1997 Defender 90. Using kit # ESR4065, it is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced every 45,000 miles on a D90. Kit #: ESR4065 Installing Fuel Filter On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video what we are going to touch base on is replacement of the fuel filter as part of your service and maintenance kits. What you will be getting in that kit is simply the fuel filter itself which is all that's needed. And this filter will be used in the Defenders, Discovery 1, P38 Range Rover and the Classic. Now what we'll do is show you how to install this filter and where to access this on the different vehicles. Now we are going to show you how to install the fuel filter. This is on a 97 D90. Your location will be pretty much the same on the one tens. Your fuel filter is your passenger side frame rail, just about between the front and rear axles. Held in place by 1 bolt and a pinch loop. And you have fittings on both sides. On the original equipment you're going to find that the fitting is going to take a thirteen sixteenth or a 21 millimeter wrench. The hose line is going to take a five eighths. Now, keep in mind, that even after you shut the vehicle down you are going to have fuel pressure in there, so you want to go up front to the Schrader valve and release it or put a pan underneath, just crack it loose, let it drip, bleed out until you no longer have any fuel dripping out, and then continue to replace your filter. Now the replacement filter, this unit here, which we've shown you in the beginning, showing what kit is included on the fuel filter. This is ESR4065. Inside the plastic protectors there is a copper ring. So when you take this out of the box, and you take these off, make sure you hold on to that ring. You could always drop this. If you don't know it's there you could drop it and lose it. You will need that to seal these up. You'll have one at both ends. Replacement of the filter is nothing more than just simply unbolting and rebolting. Now this is tapped into threads that are tapped into the frame so you can just put a wrench into this, take that loop out. I find that if you take, you're going to be turning this fitting down to loosen. So you set your wrenches like so. And with a little hand pressure you'll just crack it lose. I can see we have a little dirt and what not coming out of there. But one more turn and we'll end up. Now, take in mind, right here, this nut is designed to spin on this piece of tubing. If it doesn't, which more than likely if it has been a couple years since you've change the filter you're going to have some corrosion built up on that, what I would recommend is before you even get into changing this, get some penetrating oil, soak this down. Let it set for about 5 or 10 minutes and if it is still tight and still turning the rubber hose because you don't want to break this hose. This is part of fuel line. It goes all the way up to the engine. If you break that you're going to have to replace the line or make a makeshift replacement, which generally isn't recommended. You can give this a tap a couple of times with a hammer. Just get a small hammer, give a wrap just to break things lose. And this should eventually work lose. And if it doesn't even right away, just by working back and forth. Eventually it will crack lose and you'll be able to change it. And you're going to do the same thing on the back side. Take that nut out. You can take the whole filter out. Slide it out of the loop. Slide the new filter in. Now the original - like I said this is going to be thirteen sixteenth or 21 millimeter - the replacement filter on these fitting ends is three quarter or 19 millimeter. And you'll see at the end of the filter it tells you out. And that's indicating that's the side that's going to facing the engine. So it will be installed in that position. You don't want to get it backwards, it will reduce the efficiency of the filter. And that's pretty much a fuel filter change over. And you really should do that every 30,000 miles especially up in the northeast, with the grade of fuel we have I find that 30,000 miles is just about where you want to be when you change these, and you should do this on a regular basis. Again, helps engine performance and fuel economy. And if you want to change over the filter on your D90 you can get a hold of any of our knowledgeable salesmen. At 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using our
oil change kit # LPW100230SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers. It is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: LPW100230SKA Performing Oil Change Service On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to cover one of the maintenance kits that we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander. Which is going to be your oil change kit. Now this is part of our maintenance and repair academy, which we have listed on our website. And you can actually go to our website, download and print this sheet which gives you all of the different maintenance kits we have available for that vehicle. In this video we're going to talk about our oil change kit. This would be kit number LPW100230SKA. Now because this is the one maintenance you're going to do more often than any of the rest, and it is a very important maintenance to do, when you order the kit you're going to get enough for 2 oil changes. It's nice to be able to do the 1 oil change you're ready to do now. When you're ready to do another one just down the road, you already have all your parts and your kits. You save a little bit on the shipping. And it's nice to have everything there for you when you're ready to do it. Because, oil changes can sneak up on you. So, what you essentially get is 2 filters. 2 new drain plugs. And 2 new drain plug gaskets. Relatively easy maintenance to do. A lot of people do them as a, in the driveway, in the garage. Very easy. Very inexpensive. And a huge, huge, huge maintenance item on your vehicle. So, we have a 2002 to 2005 Freelander up in the air. We're going to show you the basics as far as access to the filter and the plug and how to drain your own oil. Okay, so, we have the vehicle up in the air. We're ready to drop this panel. You'll notice that there is a full shield or panel that covers the underside of the vehicle on this. And your choices to access the drain and the fuel filter are either to remove this entire panel, which can get a little bit involved and of course after a while the hardware underneath gets a little bit on the rusty side. Doesn't come out very easy. Or, there are 2 rivets right here that hold the panel to a bracket. And a lot of technicians, especially technicians those that do the oil changes on a regular basis on these Freelanders, will drill these rivets out and just strictly remove them. Once you've taken those out you still have this bolt and bracket holding this in place so it's not going to fall out on you. Then, you just drop this 1 bolt. And the panel just swings down and now gives you access to the oil filter and to the drain plug. But the oil filter, you can get any one of the 3 finger contracting tools, or you can get a cup tool that fits because this is a slotted filter on the end, so they make the little sockets that will fit over the top of those. Your drain plug, which you'll be getting a new drain plug and new gasket. Once you've removed the plug and drain your oil, before you reinstall, make sure you wipe it off and get a nice clean surface on that. Same thing with the oil filter. Always check to make sure that the O Ring on the oil filter didn't stay attached to the bottom side of the flange so that when you go to put the new filter on, you're going to end up with a leak. Always make sure that the old gasket came out with the filter. So it's just simply a screw off screw back in on the filter. Drain your oil. Reinstall your bolt. Now you want to check in your owners manual to see what viscosity oil works best in the region that you live in because there are some minor differences. So always refer to your owners manual, that will also give you the capacity, or how much oil you should use to refill this engine. And that's basically it. That's just an easy maintenance to do. That's very inexpensive. Something you can do in a matter of an hour. And does a world of good to your vehicle. So, when you're ready to do the oil change on your Freelander, this is for 2002 to 2005 with the 3 liter V6. Call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, demonstrate changing the air filter on a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
Kit # PHE000112, it is recommended that the Air Filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Part #: PHE000112 Replacing Air Filter on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi. My name is Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to introduce you to the air filter kit that we have for the LR3. This is with the 4.4 V-8. And this is a service that is recommended to do every 30,000 miles. If you live in a dry and dusty area it's something you want to do probably more often. The air filter is obviously filtering your intake air into your engine. You certainly don't want a build up of dirt or debris in there. The restriction can actually affect your fuel economy and your performance. And what we have here is a downloadable and printable sheet right from our website that indicates the kit. Again recommended every 30,000 miles. Our kit number is PHE000112. And with the kit you receive 1 element. And again, this is something you want to do on a regular basis. It can definitely affect both engine performance and fuel economy. Now we're going to show you how to install your air filter kit and keep you running good. You've now changed your air filter. Made an improvement on your fuel economy. You've helped the performance of your vehicle. So, when you're ready to change over the air filter in your LR3, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Jim demonstrates how to replace and install a Mann Air Filter on a Land Rover LR3. The instructions also apply to Range Rover Sport models and other brand filters that fit these vehicles. Air Filters should be replaced every 30,000 miles.
Part #: PHE000112 Replacing Air Filter on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi. My name is Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to introduce you to the air filter kit that we have for the LR3. This is with the 4.4 V-8. And this is a service that is recommended to do every 30,000 miles. If you live in a dry and dusty area it's something you want to do probably more often. The air filter is obviously filtering your intake air into your engine. You certainly don't want a build up of dirt or debris in there. The restriction can actually affect your fuel economy and your performance. And what we have here is a downloadable and printable sheet right from our website that indicates the kit. Again recommended every 30,000 miles. Our kit number is PHE000112. And with the kit you receive 1 element. And again, this is something you want to do on a regular basis. It can definitely affect both engine performance and fuel economy. Now we're going to show you how to install your air filter kit and keep you running good. You've now changed your air filter. Made an improvement on your fuel economy. You've helped the performance of your vehicle. So, when you're ready to change over the air filter in your LR3, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the simple process involved in changing the Air Filter on a LR2 2008-On. Using
Kit/Part # LR005816, it is recommended that the Air Filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part#: LR005816 Air Filter Replacement On LR2 / Freelander 2, 2008-On, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk air filters. This one in particular is for the LR2. This is with the 3.2 6 cylinder. And just like any other vehicle air filter you obviously want to keep clean. It affects fuel economy. It affects performance. It does a lot of things for a component that is relatively easy to replace. So this one in particular, which we offer on our Maintenance and Repair sheet that's available through our website. You can download this and make a copy. What this does is basically list all the maintenance items you should be doing on your LR2. What kind of product and also the intervals. So in this case the air filter we have part number LR005816. It's recommended about every 30,000 miles. Obviously if you're in a dry dusty area, probably more so because of the way it clogs up the filter. So what we're going to do too is we're going to show you how to install this. Relatively very easy and it's something you should be doing on a regular basis. All right, so essentially to take the cover off you're going to need a teak 25 bit. This is a torch drive. There's 4 that hold this down in place. I like to use a little power screw driver. A hand unit you can get, you can get the hand held or manual type anywhere. It's a pretty common tool. First thing you're going to do is pull the cover off the battery and master cylinder because that's going to get in our way. And that you just grab the 2 tabs. There's even arrows there show you what direction to pull and the whole thing pops right off. There's your battery. Then we're going to take the 4 screws out that hold the top cover in. And once we have that. All right so, here you should be able to lift this up high enough you don't even have to disconnect the mass airflow sensor. Just grab in the back corner. Lift straight up. You can see it doesn't look that bad. But when you get a build up in between all the pleated areas it can actually cause quite a restriction. So I'm just going to take the new filter. We'll slide that in place. Make sure that the orange seal is seated firmly against the base. Set the top cover back on. We give it a little wiggle so that it seats in and it will actually find its own location. And then we just run 4 screws back in. And before we put the cover back on the battery you just want to take a quick look. Any corrosion build up. Make sure the terminals are still good and tight. And then your master cylinder for your brakes is right in the back corner. Give that a little wiggle just to check your fluid level. That's all good. Just set that back in place. And we push towards the back of the vehicle. You hear it snap in. And that's it. Air filter is in. All right, so when you're ready to change the air filter in your LR2, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link that will, you can order that part direct through the website. And if you like our helpful videos, you can actually subscribe to our YouTube channel where we have a lot of other vehicles that will help you maintain your Land Rover. So we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the air filter on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Using
kit # PHE500021, it is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #: PHE500021 Replacing Air Filter On Range Rover Full Size Supercharged 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on another one of our maintenance kits that we have available. This one in particular is for a 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover. Also known as the L322. And this is applicable to both the 4.2 and the 4.4 engines that came in these. The 4.2 being the Supercharged. And this is the air filter kit that we have available. And what we do is we use the original equipment because we find this works the best in this engine. Now this is a service that is recommended once every 30,000 miles. But of course if you live in an area that is very high in dust, dirt, more urban area with heavier pollution or particulars in the air you want to change it or even check on a more often basis. Sometimes as early as 15,000 miles if you're in a very dusty area. But air filter, as simple a service as it is, makes a huge change as far as your fuel economy and performance of your engine. You want to keep a reasonably clean, or always a clean air filter in this vehicle. This is a sheet that we have available on our website. This is part of our repair and maintenance academy. And what you can do is download and print this so it gives you basically all the other maintenance items that we recommend for the same vehicle. Now this particular kit, the air filter element is part number PHE500021. It includes 1 air filter element. Showing the recommended every 30,000 miles. And now what we're going to do is show you exactly how to change over the air filter on your L322.And there you have it. So now you've changed over the air filter in your L322. You're going to improve your fuel economy. You're going to improve the performance of your engine. So, when you're ready to change the air filter over in your Full Size Range Rover, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Using
oil change kit # LR007160SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK100, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: LR007160SKAPerforming Oil Change Service On Range Rover Full Size Supercharged 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And what I want to touch base on is another one of our kits that we have available, and this one is for the 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover with the Jaguar engine. And it will apply to both the 4.2 or the 4.4. And this is the oil change kit that we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy, which you can find on our website. As well as a sheet that will be printable. You can download and print the sheet and it actually not only gives the oil change kit, but it will list all the other kits for the regular maintenance on your vehicle. You'll see the oil change kit right here - LR007160SKA. And what you'll get with that kit is 2 oil filters, 2 drain plugs. The reason being for 2, oil change is probably going to be the most frequent maintenance you do on your vehicle. And it's probably one of the most important as far as getting longevity and fuel economy out of your engine. And so what I am going to do is we have a 2006 Supercharged Range Rover and I'll just give you some of the basics. We'll show you how to perform the oil change on your vehicle.Now our oil level is little bit just below the minimum which is that hole right there. Up top will be maximum. This is not like the old dip sticks where you had add and full. Your ideal height is going to be right in between the 2 dots. And we're going to need about a quart to top this off. So this is actually going to take about 8 quarts to fill up. So we're going to add 1 more quart. That should top off our system. And we'll be all done. So, when you're ready to do the oil change on your Range Rover 2006 to 2009. The procedure will be the same for both the 4.2 and the 4.4 give any of our knowledgeable salesmen a call at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the air filter and key FOB battery on a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using
Kit # ESR4238SKA, it is recommended that the air filter and key FOB battery be replaced every 30,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #: ESR4238SKA Replacing Air Filter and Key FOB Battery On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on another one of our maintenance kits we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander. Now, this kit in particular is the kit that supplies you with the air filter and the remote key FOB battery. And you're wondering why the 2 would come together. Because they're both recommended to be done at the same time. And it's like when you change over, check your battery on your smoke detectors at daylight savings time. It's a good idea if you do one, you should do the other. When these batteries get weak it can create problems with the locking mechanisms and whatnot, so you want to keep a good, fresh battery in there all the time. Air filter - self explanatory. A good clean filter on a regular basis is going to improve your fuel economy and engine performance. If you live in dusty or a high pollen area you want to change these a little bit more often than that. So, the kit's available and you can actually download and copy this sheet on our website that lists not only this kit but all the other maintenance kits that we have available for the Freelander. So the kit is our air filter element and key FOB battery kit. Part number is ESR4238SKA. And again like I said will come with an air filter element and will come with a key FOB. Now what we have here is a 2003 Freelander that we're going to show you how to install the air filter assembly and how to change the battery over.Little squeeze just to make sure you'll feel it latch in place and pop. And youre just going to hit the buttons just to make sure this is op. As you can hear, it just went into lock and unlock. So, we've got a new battery back in place, and we're good for another 30,000 miles. So, when you're ready to change over your air filter and battery in your key FOB, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using our
oil change kit # LPW500030SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. You may also find that you need to replace the mounts on the oil filter housing with part # LYD000010OEM. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK200, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # LPW500030SKA Oil Filter Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on the oil filter change kit that we have for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also referred to as L322. Now the oil change is probably one of the most repetitive maintenance you're going to do on your vehicle. Now on the particular design it's recommended every 7,500 miles. So you're going to do it on a fairly regular basis. And it's a pain in the neck to try and order a new kit every time you're going to do an oil change. So what we do is we put the kit together so you have the proper items to do 2 oil changes. Reason being it's nice to have one up on the shelf when you're ready, because sometimes they will sneak up on you and all of a sudden you go, oh, I'm do for one and you don't want to have to wait and order one, for the time frame it takes to get it shipped to you. You already have it there, get it done. Maintain your vehicle. So what you're essentially going to get is 2 cartridge type oil filters which is what this vehicle uses. New O Rings for the cap. And de=finitely whenever you do an oil change in these always replace the O Rings. They have a tendency that if you do use the old ones they will leak. New drain plugs for the pan. And new drain plug seals. And again, this is all you really need other than the oil for 2 full oil changes. And what I'm going to do is, give me a minute, we're going to go over to this vehicle and I'm going to show you basically some of the tips that you'll need to know to change your filter.And these engines will last you quite a while. So, this is a regular maintenance you want to do on your vehicle. It's an easy one to do. It's very important to do. It makes a huge different as far as how long your engine lasts. And also with fresh oil in it you may also notice that your fuel economy is a little bit better as well. So when you're ready to do an oil change on your 2003 to 2005 L322, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the air filter on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005 (L322). Using Kit # PHE000050, it is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 45,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part # PHE000050 Replacing Air Filter On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch on one of the kits we have available for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also now as the L322. That's part of our maintenance and repair academy. What this kit is is the air filter replacement for your vehicle, this is obviously the 4.4 V8 BMW and this filter will come in this kit, part number PHE000050. And this sheet is available on our website. You can download it and print it so you have it available. This gives you all of the other repair and maintenance programs that we have available for your vehicle. Now this is something that is recommended every 45,000 miles. This is a double layer filter. You'll see you have an outer sheet along with an inner paper filter. Again, as with any air filter, it depends on what type of driving that you do, or the area that you drive in. Obviously high dust, high pollen areas you want to change these on a more regular basis. And again it's good to check them every 30,000 miles or so. So, this is the kit we have available. Now I'm going to show you how to install it in your Full Size Range Rover. Okay, so, your air filter is located in this canister right here. This will be in front corner of the passenger side of your vehicle. You'll see it's a relatively large cap. It's held down with 4 snap clips along with 2 more clips that hold the mass air flow sensor and your intake tube on. And then you also have a breather hose here on the front. Now you may find, and I found, some models, depending on the year of the vehicle, may or may not have this. But it's good this is here. We'll show you how to remove that. So, that's probably going to be the first place you want to go. What you have is a squeeze tab connector on there. And, I prefer water pumps, but you can use even a pair of slip joint pliers or whatever. And you can give that a little squeeze and what that does is raises the opposite corner so it should be easy to disconnect. And you get in behind it with a screw driver. And we slip that right off. Pop your snaps at the mass airflow sensor. Now, be careful on this because when you take this out, as you can see it's relatively tight. This always happens. There's a big O ring in there that acts as a seal. Keep tabs on this. If you have a dry silicone, or even just the oils from your fingers will help. But, make sure you hold on to this. Don't rip it. Check it for rips. Check it for cracks. If you do, and you reuse it, you could end up with an air leak that could show up later on, kicking your check engine light on for a lean run condition. So you want to make sure that's sealed. Plus you can also end up bring in dirt, ingesting dirt and whatnot in past the filter which will get on the mass airflow sensor, can also cause runability issues. So we'll push that off to the side for a little bit. And then you have your 4 clips at the halfway point, right about the middle of the canister. And definitely a long, thin screw driver like this makes it a lot easier to access. Lift that straight up and out. Now, 1st thing to do, you look at the orientation of your filter. You can see the open end is at the top. Closed end at the bottom. You simply reach in and lift. And you can see with the preliminary filter, or the cloth on the outside, how much that holds along with the paper filter on the inside. It's quite a large filter. That's why you find that the recommendations for the mileage are a little bit longer than you normally see on most vehicles. But these do need checked on a regular basis. When these get partially clogged it can just take your fuel economy and put it in the dumper. It's just not going to give you good fuel economy or performance. This is a critical part. So, you get your new component and youre going to set that right down inside. Again remember your open area was up top. And it's a bit of a tight fit but you can get that back down in there. You put your canister top down inside. Now there's some notches on there that locate it. So you want to make sure that youre fully, fully seated. And you can get to 2 of the clips without the crew driver. Both the inside and outside clips. And that at least gets it seated in place. And then you can use your long screw driver to reinstall the 2 harder clips. They are definitely harder to get at. Just a little tip. I find this front clip sometimes can be really hard to get at. Especially with this hose in the way. I have a long tool. I got this also from my local tool supplier. It's about 13 inches long with a 90 degree tip on it. No these little snap clips sort of have a hook on the top of them which you can then get to with this 90 degree end. Lift, and pop in. Definitely a time saver when it comes to installing that front seal. So if you get the opportunity this is the ideal tool for doing this job. So now we've got the canister top in place. We're going to pop that hose over in there. And again actually you can use the 90 degree tool because then you can get in behind it. And what you want to do is listen for a little click and then you know your hose is in place. Okay, so, lube up our oil ring a little bit. Like I said you can use the oil from your fingers or a nice silicone spray. You got some notches built into this air filter housing. You want to make sure you put that O ring back in place. Making sure it's fully seated. Pull that together with your fingers. Put your clips on and there you go. Your air filter has been installed. So, when you're ready to change the air filter over on your L322, 2003 to 2005 with the BMW engine, youre going to call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the air filter on a Discovery I 1994 - 1999. Using
Part # ESR1445, it is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Questions about this service? Call us toll free at 1-800-533-2210 to speak with one of our knowledgeable product specialists or contact us via the question tab. Part #: ESR1445 Replacing Air Filter On Discovery I, 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And we're going to introduce you to one of the maintenance and repair kits that we have for the Discovery 1, 1996 to 1999. This is the air filter kit which is actually a regular maintenance that you should be doing on your Land Rover. Definitely want to check the air filter on a regular basis. They can grossly affect your drivability, your fuel economy should they get dirty, plugged up. So you definitely want to keep an eye on them. So, what we have here is our kit number ESR1445. What you receive is 1 air filter that meets Land Rover specifications. Comes with the seal already built into the air filter just like the original. Now what I am going to do now is show you how to install your air filter and take care of this maintenance yourself. Alright. So, first thing - fender cover. You don't want to put any scratches or dings in your Land Rover so I always recommend put a cover down. It only takes a couple seconds. Should you not have any covers, we actually do offer these in our website catalog so you want to look at these we have them available in red and black. So, here is the air filter assembly that we showed you. And it's a simple matter of clips, 4 clips on the box cover itself and 2 that attach it to the mass airflow sensor and your air temperature sensor. The air temperature sensor has a little metal ring around where you can just wiggle and disconnect that. You can take a flat blade screw driver and grab the bottom of the clips. I recommend using a screw driver instead of your fingers because sometimes these clips can be a little on the tight side. They'll come up and snap your fingers and it doesn't feel good. Just grab the bottom loop and pull up. Same with the clips on the mass airflow sensor. You don't have to disconnect the mass airflow. Just leave it. Pull cover off. 2 things you want to notice on this air filter. One, it's obviously dirty. 2, it wasn't originally installed properly and you can see how it's pulled that down and it's drawing in dirt and whatnot down into the filter. Or actually this is going to filter from the bottom up. You can see this build up right here. This gets on this screen for the mass airflow sensor can directly affect the way that the vehicle performs. So, as you can see, we got our money's worth out of that one. Looks like we have a tenant. This is the first time I've pulled this cover off on this vehicle. So we obviously had a tenant in there as well. So, that's the other thing. You want to wipe out the box. Clean it out. Get any debris out of there. Maybe grab a shop vac, clean all that out of there. Secondly, when you put this back together and I noticed in on this one. There should be an O ring around this mass airflow sensor. So you want to make sure that the O ring is there. If you don't see it, check around, make sure it didn't drop off when you disconnected the top cover. If not, you want to get a replacement. And it's just a simple matter of when you put the new one in, set it in place. Make sure the gasket is fully set all around. And then just simply reinstall the top the way you took it off. Wiggle that around until you actually feel it seat down in place. And then it is just grab the top loop. As you can see where you have a little tab right there where the clamp grabs onto. Push straight down. Clamp straight down. And just do that all the way around. Mass airflow sensor - same thing. Clip into the hole that they have on the backside. Clamp it in. Don't forget to plug your sender back in. And that's it. You have an air filter. Now you can obviously with the way this one is plugged up, this was going to affect the way the vehicle ran. Definitely going to affect your fuel economy as well. With the price of gas these days you want to try and keep that as low as possible. So for a minimal amount of work, for a minimal amount of money, you can do a good maintenance on your vehicle. Do check your air filter on a regular basis. And again, when you're ready to change this over, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, demonstrate changing the
air filter on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using Kit # ESR4238, it is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Kit # ESR4238 Air Filter Replacement on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to introduce you to the air filter replacement for your 1999 to 2004 Discovery 2 with your BOSCH 4 liter or 4.6 engine. This is part of our repair and maintenance academy. And you will find in our downloadable and printable list that you can get from our website. This would be Kit # D. Part # ESR4238. What will be included is an air filter, equivalent to original equipment. Now just as a quick note, this is a wearable item. They are recommended to be changed every 15,000 to 30,000 miles. If you are in an area of high dust, dusty roads, you so some more off-roading, you probably want to change them more often. Changing an air filter can make a huge difference in the performance of your vehicle and your fuel economy, so it's something you will definitely want to consider. Now in a minute we'll show you how to install this. So now you've seen the kit that we offer, which is our air filter. We're going to show you how to replace this. This is on your Discovery 2 with a BOSCH engine. The air filter sits directly under this box which is on the driver's side, front corner. And there's nothing more than 4 clips. You have 2 here that connect you to your intake tube. You're going to unclip and fold back. There's another right here on top. Simply push the tab away from the box, that will release and then the bottom clip you will reach under, lift and release. Same style clip as what you have on the intakes. Just simply give a wiggle up and down. This is on an accordion so that you can actually move this back. You'll fold this up. And now you have access to your air filter. And we can see this is normal. This is after about 10,000 to 14,000 miles. You can see you have a fair amount of dirt build up and whatnot. And all that dirt and all that dust will create a restriction that will affect both your engine performance and your fuel economy. So you want to keep a clean filter in there. Definitely do this on a regular basis. And again, if you're in a dry or dusty area you definitely want to do it even more than the recommended timeframe. So again, to reinstall, we're going to save that for another vehicle. Pop the filter in. Run your finger all the way down to make sure that the gasket is seated down inside the box. Start from upright. You have 2 hook clasps right here that are going to grab underneath these 2 arms. We're going to be up, clip in. Make sure you move your plastic vent line out of the way. Now again, be very careful with this plastic vent line. If you have an older vehicle and haven't replaced this, these get very brittle and have a tendency to snap at different areas. So you want to be very careful working around that plastic line. Slide your air tube back in place. Grab your clamp. Top clamp up top. And just bring that tab forward. And then your lower clamp down here. Simply set in place. Push down. Locked in and now you've changed your air filter. So again when you're ready to do this on your Disco 2 give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. They'll be happy to help you out. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in changing the air filter on a 1995-2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) FOR VEHICLES WITH VIN FROM VA346794 (Mid-1997-On). Using
kit # LR027408, it is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 45,000 miles. Part #: LR027408 Replacing the Air Filter on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications, 1999-2002, 8-Cylinder BOSCH Gasoline, North American Specifications For Vehicles with VIN from VA346794 (Mid-1997-On)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to discuss the air filter element replacement that's part of the repair and maintenance academy. And this particular kit will be used for the P38 Range Rovers. Now this particular, which is going to be for the GEMS engine vehicle, which is 1995 to 1998. And if you look at the sheet that we have available that you can download and refer to you'll see that there are 2 different part numbers, depending on the vehicle ID number on your vehicle. There will be a difference in the air filter. So essentially you are going to have 2 numbers. The one I have on display right here is the ESR4238. Both are fairly similar in design, but there is a little difference in the fit. And in a minute we are going to show you how to install this filter in your vehicle. So changing your air filter on this is actually a relatively easy job and it's definitely going to improve your fuel economy on your vehicle, which is a great help these days. And it's simply just a matter of there are 2 snap clips on the snorkel leading into the mass airflow sensor. And 2 clips, one in the rear of the box and one to the side. And you'll lift up on this one to release. Make sure the tangs are fully out of the way. You also have a connector here. And this is for your intake air temperature. You're going to lift up on the little metal cross brace on the bottom. And give it a wiggle. And first time out these can be sometimes not so easy to remove. But fully depress and it will come out. Grab the mass airflow sensor. And separate from the cover of your air filter. You'll lift straight up and these hooks will come right out from underneath. Now this is a moderately dirty air filter. Really not too bad a shape. And this is what you would see in normal driving at about 6 to 8,000 miles. At your 15,000 mile mark they're going to look pretty dirty. Your new filter simply drops in place. Make sure your seal is inside the housing all the way around before you close it down so you end up with a good even seal. Grab your cover. Line up the hooks. Straight up position. Fold it down. There is a, just want to make sure there is no dirt or debris built up inside here. If you'll notice you see you have a screen in front of the mass airflow sensor. If you get a piece of leaf or a piece of paper or debris on that they can actually affect the way your vehicle runs. So you want to make sure no debris on that screen. Drop in place. Re hook your 2 clips. Side clip. Drop the loop over the top of the housing. Push down. Clip in the back. Lift over the bracket that it attaches to and lift up. Pops that down in place. And don't forget your sensor connector. Just push that in until you hear the click. And you're good. And now you've put a new air filter in and you don't have to worry about that for another 10 to 15,000 miles. So when you're ready to change your air filter on your P38 give any one of our knowledgeable salesmen a call at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the
air filter on a Defender 90 1997. It is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Part #: RTC4683 Replacing Air Filter Element On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to be covering the air filter replacement for your D90 as part of our service and maintenance kits. Now, this particular kit that you would be ordering for your D90 is going to be filter element kit RTC4683. As you can see by the chart recommended every 30,000 miles. So with this kit you'll be receiving this air filter. We're going to show you how to install the air filter yourself. It's a relatively easy job, only takes a few minutes. We're going to show you how to install the air filter element into the 1997 D90. Now this is going to be the filter you receive and this is kit # RTC4683. Nothing more than a paper element, rubber seal on both sides. Again, this is recommended to be done every 30,000 miles. If you do more off-roading or dusty areas, you probably want to do it less, 15 - 20 thousand. Air filter is critical as far as engine reliability and fuel economy. So what we are going to do is set the box aside. I always recommend if you are working over the fenders, especially on a D90 with the aluminum fenders you want to drape a nice fender cover over the top. This is one of our Atlantic British foam fender covers. You're going to reach in, and you have three clips that hold this intake housing on. Now the one in the back is a little on the tight side. And you can usually clip it out. Once you get the top two out you can sometimes flip these out without having any problems. Inside, looks like we have an 11 millimeter nut. Now this is a nylon locking nut so that the filter doesn't slide out from there. The nut that retains that, you can use either a seven sixteenth or an eleven millimeter socket, depending on what you have in your tool box. We're going to run that nut off. It's going to be a little tight because it is designed to be that way, so it doesn't back off on its own. Once you feel the nut loosen up, reach in and put your hand in underneath it because you don't want it dropping out of the socket and falling down back in behind the engine. You could end up spending more time chasing a nut down than changing the filter. Set your tool down. As a recommendation, do not set any tools down on the top of the Defender fender. These aluminum fenders if you put a little bit of weight on them it will actually leave an impression in them. That's why the fender cover. That's why you never lay your tools on top of them. Reach in. Pop out the cover. Pull your heater hoses up out of the way. Don't worry about bending it a little bit you're not going to reuse it anyway. Now that's a reasonably dirty filter. Most cases you see one like this, you probably want to change it. You can see where you have enough build up on the paper where it's going to restrict air intake. Just take that - we'll discard that one. One hand back, hold your hoses. It doesn't matter which way you install it. The gasket's the same on both sides. Slide it in all the way until you feel it seat. Reinstall your cap and you should feel it - it will seat right up against that rubber gasket. Reinstall your nut. Now you don't need to make your nut super tight, you just want it good and snug. Too tight and you could end up doing some damage to the air filter. Just make sure that you're tight up against the filter so we have a good tight seal. Now the snorkel, or the intake, there's no indentations. There's no anything there that's going to make this a one shot installation. In other words it isn't indexed. We can just basically put it on, slide that in there, slip the top 2 on because they're the easiest to get at. Reach in underneath, pull the clip forward, and the snap back, and we have all 3 on there nice and tight. Now you have a good air filter on there. And as I said it is recommended every 30,000 miles you should change that filter. Again if you go off-road or you're in a dusty area, maybe once every 20,000. But it's a good idea to check it every other oil change. That's an air filter installation on a D90. This is with the 4 O engine. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service using our
Kit # TRANSM600SKB on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38, with 4-speed ZF transmission; and should be performed every 30,000 miles. Kit#:TRANSM600SKB Installing Transmission Filter and Service Kit On Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004, 8 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance that a lot of people neglect on their vehicles, and that's automatic transmission service. On the Land Rover Discovery's, especially Discovery 2, your Range Rover P38, basically any vehicle across the board, over a period of time the fluid breaks down, the filter becomes restricted, and you end up losing not only shift performance, it can affect your fuel economy and it basically affects the overall drivability of the vehicle. So what we've done is put a kit together. And this is for the 4 speed ZF that was used in the Discovery 2s and the P38s. This will give you enough fluid, a new gasket, a filter, new O rings and the retainer collars for the pan and a drain plug with a new seal. And this is something you actually could do in your driveway. It's actually a relatively easy pan to drop. There's only 6 bolts. There's a drain plug. And just doing the service could do a world of good on your vehicle. So what we're going to do is show you how to install this. And basically show you how relatively easy it is to do a transmission service on this particular vehicle. We're going to do this on a 1999 Discovery 2. This will be very similar to any of the other vehicles, so follow along, I'll show you how to do it. So before we get started what I'm going to do is give you a basic layout of what you'll be getting into. We have a drain plug on the bottom. We're going to take that out first, let the system drain out. And then the only thing you have holding the pan in are 6 small bolts. You have 1 in each corner and then on each side there's 1 in the middle. Now the way they have this configured, they have a lip on the pan that goes all the way around. And on that lip is held in place by these little, I guess you could call them a block or a spacer or whatever you want to call it. But the bolt runs through it. As you can see there. Now when they've been up in place for about 17 years as in this case, they have a tendency to lock themselves in. So I would suggest is if you're a do it yourselfer, and you plan on doing this, you may want to start a week ahead of time and just shoot those bolts down about every other day with penetrating oil let the stuff work its way in. If you're a shop, definitely you still want to get in there and give them a little shock treatment, shoot them up with penetrating oil. You can take a straight punch with a small hammer and just give a wrap. Or if you have access to compressed air, with an air hammer just a quick shot right at the end of each bolt. Hopefully to break the corrosion loose. So that's essentially what you got. Be very careful, these bolts are very susceptible to breaking. It's a very small bolt that run into an aluminum housing. And when they are there for a while they will lock themselves in place. And you won't even know it. You'll spin it out and feel like the bolts turning. It just snaps right off. So if that's the case then you are going to be getting into a repair. So be very careful taking them off. Anyway, so, let's get started. We're going to take this apart. Drop this pan. And get into the filter change. So, we're at the point now, we've run it through the gears. We let our drip down to the pint where we knew we had a good level. Install the new plug. And at this point we're essentially done. We've done a transmission service. So with that new filter in place, like I said, it helps with fuel economy. It definitely adds to the life of the transmission. The fluid does break down after a while. And overall it's just going to let this transmission last a lot longer and perform better. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your D2 or your P38 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. all right so you've seen us tear this down now we're gonna go over the things that we need to do before we start assembling the heads as you can see we have everything here and let's start putting it together so now we're at the point now we want to assemble the heads before we set them up on the block so just for a breakdown this is basically what you're gonna be assembling here we'll start with the head assembly itself the things you want to check obviously are for a clean straight surface for the valve cover for the exhaust and then most importantly for the head to block connection and you can see we have this all cleaned up now what we did too is we had put a straight edge on this and we can and you can actually get them out of an any automotive center someone will even loan them to you but these straight edges are accurate to within a half a thousandth of an inch and you want to do a crisscross pattern and then a straight up pattern and you want to basically look for any spots where you could see light if you hold a flashlight behind it and what that does it tells you that at that point then the head would need to be reground this one was in good shape and the bottom line is you don't want to have to have it surfaced if you don't need to reason being is if it had already been surfaced and was with inspection you have it cut again when you cut these and you cut too much off of them it because of the V pattern on the block it draws the heads closer together so what happens then is you may be able to give all the heads down but when you put the lower intake manifold on all holes aren't going to line up they're now closer together and not where they should be in regard to the manifold so keep that in mind if you like you can actually go on some of the forms that are out there you can download a program called rave Rav II and that has the overhaul manual which will give you a lot of the specs for how far you can cut the heads your torque specs for all your bolts and some some of your assembly run down beside our video so all that information makes this a little bit easier so again in this hope we we check the surface we look there surfaces are good our bracket is on now this is the driver's side head we want to make sure your ground strap is on now one thing we want to check is the oil delivery holes that run oil up to the rockers okay the way they're mounted on top and you'll see you got basically a small hole here this is a 5/32 drill bit we're just going to run that down we want to make sure that one is nice and clear that looks good and this one we can feel some drag and sure enough we've got some sticky mung in there so we're gonna do is take some break clean and blow that out on the same token the coinciding openings in the rocker arms you have your oil delivery holes feed a small chamber on the bottom of the rocker and as you can see there we get some buildup actually quite a bit and that can also cause a lowering of the oil pressure to the rockers so we want to make sure that's open and clean so we're going to clean those out we're gonna make sure those are open and then the next step would be to get the exhaust manifold bolted on so you know which manifold it is on your left side head of the two manifolds the single bolt that single bolt will always point towards the front of the engine so when you set the manifold on place if that's up front this is the correct manifold now we're going to show you something else in regard to the exhaust manifold gaskets proper positioning would be like so nope sorry like so reason being is this cross piece here that connects the two ports is below the spark plug and the head bolt now as you can see these can be mounted upside down and should you make that mistake you are now blocking off access to the head bolt and to the spark plug so when you put these gaskets on it should look like this with that cross piece laying on the bottom and then the front would be exactly the same so from there then we're gonna put the exhaust manifold bolts on don't forget that you have spacers on these bolts I've had this in this little little tray soaking and penetrating oil just to get them lubed up so these are gonna be a 12 millimeter 12-point don't forget to make sure you put your spacer so it's going to be your gasket your manifold and your spacer and then we'll lock those down good and tight and then spark plugs now we find the champions seem to run the best in these four all four six engines especially with the Bosch so you're going to set your gap which is also in the the the rave I believe these are 35 to 42 usually some at about 35 because as they where they'll stay within the specifications now is a good time to install them because it's right here in front of you you can lock them down you don't want to make them too tight because basically you've got the aluminum heads you don't want to over tighten the plugs then you're going to take a lot of torque just want to make sure you snug them in and then last but not least and I always replace the studs you'll see on the manifold that you're missing your three studs that go down through the catalytic converters reason being for that in many cases by the time you're doing an engine job on this the threads are pretty well worn off you might have even had to heat them up taking it out now these are set so that you have two different length threads the shorter end is going to go into the manifold leaving the extended area and the barrel extended out so we're going to just replace all those and it's the same thing if you have a stud puller a lock on that'll do a good job if not you can take a pair of needle nose vise grip and grab the barrel don't grab the threads spin that on and so essentially you don't see any more threads on a short and then you know it's fully seated and that's pretty much it so that at this point now once we get everything cleaned off and together we've ready to put the head on the engine all right so here's our heads completed and put together exhaust manifold spark plugs the rockers are on but loose because they're gonna come back off again e-way what do we get the heads on but they're they're they're cysts in sending the heads in place and you'll see why in a few minutes the other thing I want to mention here's your head gasket you can see that on one side they apply some red sealer and what you're gonna look for is that word top so that means that when you set this in place this is the top side this is what's going to be facing the head and again you can also recognize that by the rent sealer you see that red sealer you should be seeing that when you place it on the floor now you also have a couple locating pins on the block so you'd be able to actually set the head gasket and it'll stay in place when we lower the head on it all right so you see what I've done basically just run to rags underneath the rockers so that when they loop them under and come back up I have a good handle and threads the bolts are in you know a good 5 or 6 threads you want them in there a little bit you want to make sure this doesn't come loose second thing you want to mention always put a fennec cover on because there's a good chance you can end up popping into this you don't want to hit the fender you don't want to cause it dead just something else to work on later down the line so we're gonna do then is just simply lift up on the head I can lower it down in set it in place I only need to move it a little bit and it should pop right on you have two locating pins on the block itself one here and one in the back and it's going to hold the head gasket in place as well so everything will be lined right up and then we can put some head bolts in and get things torqued in so we got the head in place the pins will hold that it's not going to go anywhere taking the rockers back off you just back off the four bolts set that to the side because it will eventually go back on we got to put the lifters and the push rods in so you'll notice that we if you notice when you pulled it apart you had three long head bolts in the top Center and then the rest the remaining seven are the shorter bolts and there's your difference in length so we're going to put one of the long bolts in the top on the short bolt in the bottom in the center and then we'll just think we're gonna run the bus to the bolts install them and then just run them down so they're just touching when they're just touching the head and then from that point we're gonna well torque them up according to specs now specs on these we're going to be tightening them all to 15 foot-pounds and then you're going to turn each one 90 degrees with a breaker bar and then wait about 10 15 minutes and then an additional 90 degrees now being on this case we're starting with the new blocks we've got nice clean threads in the block for the head bolts they had this should this be a youth block or and you're doing just the head gaskets you want to make sure you run a thread chaser down each one of those holes you want to get it all corrosion dirt anything out of those sometimes it's even best if you have access to compress there shoot a little solvent down in each hole and blow it out with the air holding a rag over it so obviously you don't get in your face and from that point this way you won't always want to start with clean threads it's also recommended that before you run each head bolt in what we're going to do is keep a little bit of oil then we're just going to simply dip the end in those head bolts before we install them and this way you'll end up with a much better torque rating you're not fighting against any dirt or any buildup in those threads they're gonna thread in nice and easy so once we get those to win and it's essentially same procedure for the rest of the rest of the head bolts we're just going to run them in so they just touching the head so now we get the head bolts snugged in what we're gonna do that before we torque up now I want to just run this by anytime you put a head or a manifold or or even a pan like a pan gasket or a transmission pan anytime you tighten up something like that you always start from the center so you can do either top or bottom doesn't matter but you start in the center and then you simply work across and then in a outward spiral in other words so we do the bottom Center top Center then we can go to the left do top and bottom we're gonna go over to the other side bottom and then top and then around the top to bottom bottom the top and that's the best way to torque up ahead what that does is reduces Distortion you get a better lock down on it and then believe it or not make for a better job when you've done this once I'm going to wait a minute or two and then go around one more time just to make sure they're all evenly torqued all right so should have mentioned earlier the head to these bolts are 5/8 which is basically the same thing as a spark plug socket so I've used the swivel spark plug socket to run them in especially in those back corners it works very well but now that we're going to go to the 90 degree twist you're going to be getting into a much higher torque so we're going to step up to 1/2 inch drive 24-inch break a bar with a 5/8 socket on the end so we'll start in the middle and we'll go exactly 90 degrees and you can plus or minus 10 degrees it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect there are gauges out there that are available that you can actually install before you put the bolt on or socket on and it will show you at 90 degrees but 90 degrees is pretty much just a straight angle so what we'll do see like in this case really can't get a good bite on anything where it's gonna be easy to figure out 90 there we go alright so essentially here's 0 so 90 degrees is you're gonna run into where the bar should end up actually just about perpendicular to the block and we're essentially just gonna do the same thing all the way around the same thing we're gonna figure about where ninety degrees is languages right up against the farm all right then just to make it easier because the hardest ball to get ad through this whole operation is this back head bolt because we actually have to turn it to a specific torque so we've got a five base deep 1/2 inch drive socket swivel socket so this way we can get in at an angle and we'll essentially going to set it up so that it will not only drop on but set the square in an accessible point and then we can figure out 90 degrees from there so at this stage of the game this is when it gets a little tough because now we're going to do the final 90 we've waited about 10 15 minutes we let things settle in on the first torque now with the additional 90 this is gonna bring you up to over one hundred foot-pounds of torque on an average so what you may need to do when it gets real tight and a cheater bar on to this we're going to see if we can go the full 90 without having to add it in this case I think what we're going to do is because 90 is gonna put us past the firewall we're gonna go 45 and then pull this back and reset it and do the additional 45 so that's essentially the procedure for installing ahead and torquing down on their head gaskets now we're just going to do passenger's side exact same process as we did on the driver's side so next step is gonna be to install the push rods in the rockers now what he did was we cleaned up these push rods you want to put them on a nice smooth surface you want to roll them just to make sure nothing is bent you also want to check both ends kind of run your thumb nail over it if you have a if you have an error you're gonna just catch a little step at the bottom but if it feels really rough or even sharp edge you want to replace that push rod so we have all 16 all cleaned up nice and we've got the lifters in place so we're going to go back over to that engine and set things up all right first things first and I've seen guys do this these lifters come in and out of here fairly easy look at that making sure your gonna put that in facing up and not that end I've seen it done they just got to basically wiggle it'll seat in place they're all pretty well oiled because they've been soaked and you're gonna get down through the hole and you're gonna set up all your push rods make sure you go through the guides there's little holes there in the head that guide the top of the push rod all right so we're gonna set the rocker in place now remember we're gonna make sure you've got here's your rounded area where your push rods are going to seat and of course the flatlands end up on the valves so we'll just set this gently in place you want to get the bolts lined up now you got to remember that right now you're going to have there's going to be some of these push rods or in the up position because the cam they're writing directly on the cam which is going to create spring pressure on the rocker arm so when we tighten this down we just want to go a little bit at a time until we seat the rocker down on the head and then we'll put the torque wrench on it and torque specs on these are 28 foot-pounds once we have the all these bolts seated and we're just going to use a ratchet and a socket to see them down then we'll torque up the specs so we got the rockers down in place the rocker shaft will actually the lands are seated on the head so now we don't have to worry about working against spring pressure the reason we did that was because you could possibly bend that rocker shaft if you could torque one end down and the other has spring pressure it actually creates a force that can bend them so now that they're seated we'll start in the middle we've got their torque wrench set at 28 foot-pounds do the two in the middle and then we go to the outside and we do it one more time just so that we know we have an even torque on all four bolts okay it's pretty much it so now we just do the same on the other side and we'll have our rockers and push rods in place so our next step is we're gonna put the lower intake manifold on to do so you're gonna grab the two end seals that come in your gasket set your Valley pan gasket and then of course the intake and basically what we've done is we clean this off so we get a nice smooth surface on both sides and you're gonna need a 3/8 drive torque wrench now you can use a long extension with a swivel end I just happen to have this tool just makes it a little bit easier this is essentially a 13 millimeter swivel on an already built onto the extension gasket scraper in case you need a final cleanup of course a ratchet extension on now this is a tool that's similar to what the factory calls for and it makes it a lot easier to get to the bolts once you get things in place to torque them up you're gonna put this on the torque wrench it's essentially a 13 millimeter 12 point with 3/8 drive can be referred to as a crow foot sometimes socket extension there's a number of different names for them but this does make the job a lot easier so what we do is start off is we're going to take some of the we'll take some of the high tack and we're going to put a little coating on both sides of the heads I don't recommend using RTV on the gasket surfaces but we are gonna use some to seal up where you've got a couple different components like where the head meets the block and where the front cover meets but mostly just the two areas that where the where the head meets the blocks you have four points so we've done that we're going to let that tack up a little bit and then essentially we're going to take some of the RTV now right here you can actually see a little valley right where the head meets the block what we want to do is we want to fill that with some RTV this will help prevent oil we Benji and we'll let that set up for a few minutes you might get a little tacky so you'll notice the end seals basically conformed to the block so one side is fairly straight the other has a curve to it and you'll see that in the gasket as well plus on the end here you have a little wedge that drops down into that area that we are TV so it's going to push some there now in the manual it tells you to reply just put one little beat of our TV but I usually do it twice down in that Valley and then I'll do it one more time over the top before we put the pan gasket on so we got the two end seals in place a little Dabba RTV again on the corners just to give a little extra missile BC just a little extra protection against an oil leak we're gonna set the pan in place or the bolt holes you can look straight down and we'll push that down into place the next are your to hold down plates now if you remember when we took this apart we put this aside so that the two bolts that hold these down they're a little different than the bolts that are in the rest of the bar so you want to make sure that you've put these aside so we're gonna very gently lower the intake sort of in place but just a little ahead so we can reach in the back and then you've got a fuel line I've got to go on then you want to make sure you hear that click once you got it on there now if you look at the ten bolts that go in this item are all the same length there are two long ones and they're gonna go in the front here and then once we get them all started we're going to torque them down now the factory calls for a sequence to start with seven foot-pounds then all the way around again in 13 foot-pounds and then a final tighten in a 38 most of your 3h drive torque wrenches are not going to get down to seven pounds so I usually set mine at ten and then I'll do 20 and then we do 38 all the way around and even then we'll let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and then go 38 one more time around just to make sure everything's torqued down nice and tight and the gaskets been compressed so just like we mentioned with the heads anytime you torque down a head or a manifold anything like that to reduce the amount of distortion we're going to start from the center and then work our way around into a spiraling outward pattern and so we've talked them all as I said we're gonna do in different come we'll do 10 20 and then 38 and then after the 38 we're going to wait about 10-15 minutes and then do 38 again just to make sure everything's down and tightened properly all right so before we put the valve covers on we have an actual bolt that goes up into the back of the head that runs through that bracket right there and what that does is holds the harness in place right about there so we need to attach that and then we also need to attach the ground strap and if you'll notice on this you'll see a green wire with a loop that's also going to go to that ground post all right so now is the point you definitely want to plug in this is for the crank sensor you're going to see the the tab right here that lot latches on to that little notch so essentially that's the wrong way that's the right way plugged this together you should hear a little click when that blocks in and then there's a bracket on the back that you're not going to be able to see this video that this hooks into to keep it from banging around in there this is a really bad connector to try to get to alright so next is gonna be your valve covers now first thing I do if you notice there's a rag sitting on top of the intake manifold we want to cover those holes you're going to be handling small bolts god forbid you drop one and it goes down they'll put one of those ports and fish it out you'll end up taking the intake back off to get at it so we put a rag over there as protection and then what we've done is we've prepped the valve covers we've shot high tech on the inside areas of both valve covers and on the areas of the gasket itself that will lay on the surface reason for that is that when it gets good and tacky we let it sit for about 15 minutes you put your gasket on the valve cover it's gonna stick and it's going to hold to it otherwise trying to hold on to that and keep it from falling in and unsettling is just a royal pain so this way gas gets stuck to the valve cover we run our bolts down we line it up so much easier now remember that these bolts are eight millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you pull that tool out and clean the bolts up a little bit just give him a little shoot down with some brake clean or whatever it's a little cleaner before you install alright so just as a note there's a groove cut on one side of the valve cover gasket and then one side is actually relatively flat except for one raised rib that's the area that's gonna make contact with the head so the groove the area actually seats all the way around in the valve cover make sure that all four your spacers are president they didn't drop out of the gasket and then we'll get them relatively close and then essentially put the four bolts in and remember you've got the two short on the inside part of the engine and the two long on the outside closer to the exhaust manifold so your passenger side first that has your oil fill tube now remember this is a Bosch engine where your fill tube is on the passenger side of course on a Jemez engine you're gonna find it on the driver's side no all we did was just basically hold up the wiring hard-ass sneak that in and then visually give a look at where the bolts line up and you can kind of wiggle it back and forth and you'll feel one of the little bolts kind of drop down in there what we're going to do is and we'll get them all started now the book says to torque to two and a half foot pounds you're gonna need a very small almost like a dial type quarter inch drive torque wrench if you want to torque it up it's two and a half pounds to do all four and then you go up to six pounds is the final torque on on all four bolts so one sides torqued in place and then simply we're just gonna do the exact same on the other side and before you started tightening bolts down because of all is wiring in one eye you just want to make sure you don't have a wire pinched between the valve cover and the head anywhere in the front or the back will lead the problems later on down the line so same thing with this side we've got some wires hanging around so we want to make sure that we don't get them we don't get them caught up in the valve cover and it's pretty much to it on those alright so they would have the valve covers in place we got the lower intake in place at this point we can grab the main harnesses we can kind of set them in place now in most cases when you when you first took this apart you had basically tie straps that went into these these four locations so of course they get brittle they fall apart you try to open them up they break so you can do it one of two ways you can actually wire tie it directly just loop under and wire tie it or I know a lot of automotive centers have the wire ties with what they call a little Christmas tree attached to them and that Christmas tree will pop right into those holes and wire tie the harness in place and that's what we're going to do with this but this way at least pull the harness out you'll also notice that there is one more green wire on this now if you have like a 2001 and later you probably aren't going to find these green wires this isn't this was a I think this was also this was a 2000 but you've seen this on the early disco twos don't see it so much on the later so if you don't see the green wires don't panic it's not that they're missing that just on that particularly design they're not used so don't worry about that rest of it this harness will get down the side of the bracket what we're really thinking about right now is we're going to put the main harness back in this place and then we're gonna plug in all the injectors and then this small bolt right here on the fuel rail is going to be the bolt we're gonna run out and then we're gonna attach that green wire right here for that round idle air control the one wire you want to be concerned with this wires for the knock sensor this is going to run all the way down and underneath you just want to make sure we get that down there because once we get the bracket and the alternator in place or I'm sorry the power steering pump in place we don't want to pinch that wire we want to make sure we put that in a good spot all right bingo okay that's good for now and then as we go along we'll be plugging everything else in all right so at this point now we're back underneath the vehicle we've got to get a few things connected yet now that one harness that has the lead for the starter the starter wire and for the knock sensor on the right hand side we got to sneak that through a hall that is on the upper back side of the mount so that it comes through to just above the starter so you got here's the end of your started connection this is going to go on to this nut here there's a small Spade pushing right on that right over the top of this stud and nut that's your for your s wire that'll be this lead right here and then you also have your connector that you're going to push in you're going to click into your knock sensor right here then once we've done that then we can sneak the heatshield in there and get that popped in place before we put the exhaust on so getting the shield back up in there sort of a bit of a magic trick this bracket tucked up into the all right you know we work on trying to get there's a tab on the end of this that drops into a hole which will help line up just kind of working back and forth until we find it there we go all right and that puts that in place so if you have a mirror what you can do is actually look up inside the mount the see if the holes lined up or not once we determine it isn't it or it isn't turn it the way we need to turn it to get it to line up all right so this is what the finished product should look like this clip is locked around the solenoid your wiring is protected from the heat from the heat shield and then the front bolt is in and locked in place so this is good and solid not going anywhere so now we just quickly we're gonna look through the other side and here we have the other knock sensor we've plugged that in and you'll notice that this loop lines right up with this hole right here and so what we're going to do is go find a bolt put the bolt in there and then that will lock that one piece of wire right there in place so keep it secure and then we can put the exhaust back up in place so now we're ready to put the exhaust up in place we've got to get your to hold gasket up in there and usually can push it up in place I always like to start on the driver's side and leaves me some flexibility on the passenger side we're not gonna run the nuts up tight initially we just want to get them up in place and then the front part is essentially getting up in there to get the gasket on this is actually sometimes a little easier from up top it says we're just gonna lay the gasket right over the opening we'll line up the holes all right so we're gonna hook the exhaust stop we find it's a lot easier to get to this passenger side setup then from underneath because you got the driveshaft and everything else in a way so we're just gonna sneak down in there then we're gonna slide the gasket up over the studs so we can raise that up and it's gonna take a little take a little doing but it will go and we got one two and three and then you can just raise the exhaust up you have to reach down in pull up on the exhaust and slide the studs over with one arm hold it up and the other we're gonna just put one nut on to help support it all right so we've got that side hooked up basically just got the three bolts and I just want to make note don't forget now's a good time to plug in that o2 sensor and then tuck the wire in back behind the right side head and it'll keep it out of the way the exhaust well it's just to give you a shot what we've done on the passenger's side you're going to leave the nuts loose you got allow for some slack and now we're going to pop the driver's side on all right so basically at this point now we've got the six nuts in on the exhaust we're going to run them up we got them completely tight as far as torque specs because of the long extension you need to get up there a torque wrench isn't going to be accurate anyway so you just want to essentially just get them good and tight and then don't forget to plug in your o2 sensor connector on the driver's side and we're going to tuck that back in behind the bracket so next what we're going to do is we'll get these transmission coolant lines back up in place gonna have to do a little don't be a little pushing in pollen but we essentially need to twist it get this one up into this upper clip the lower one into the lower clip and then we'll show you where the other one goes alright so we're gonna install the bracket now that supports the AC compressor and the steering pump you want to make sure if you have an oil cooler equipped vehicle you want to make sure that the one line for the oil cooler underneath is back in behind the bracket also your wire going down to your your knock sensor you want to make sure that's clear and then basically you're going to set it up on that stud that's on the front of the head and that's going to come through this hole right in top of the power steering pump and we just slide that again double-check your wire make sure it's not pinched in there and we'll put the put the top bolt on you'll feel the thread they line right up alright so we'll put the other two bolts on and then we have the nut that goes on the sword and the single bolt up top and then we're just gonna run those in tight just quickly before I run them in just to show you where the bolts out where the locations are the nut and the single bolt up top this is a ten millimeter head these are all going to be thirteen and just going to set them up good and tight okay one thing I'm going to mention about this oil cooler the one line that we snuck in behind the bracket obviously attaches down underneath and gets locked down but to put it in the right position what we're going to need to do is we've we don't want to set it up on this bracket right away we're gonna leave this off we got to get underneath we're gonna essentially put the other end of the tube up into its location by the filter leave that nut loose then get back up in here set the bolt up in this so now the hose is in its proper position there's no tension on any of the parts and then we go back down torque the the nut that secures it to the oil filter housing and then back up to tighten this one alright so what we're going to do next is we're gonna hook up the upper this is the lines for the heater hoses for your heating system I'm gonna move that out of the way and then put a little replace this whole ring and then put a little Vaseline on there so it slips in this way it won't pinch it as we go in it's kind of a tight fit alright so next I'm gonna show it's already connected but just to remind you we're gonna connect you got this you got a black connector here and that's going to go to the cam sensor don't forget it because it's kind of out of sight so underneath the water pump and you don't see it so you don't want to forget connecting that you're going to need that so you can start the vehicle then you also got your oil pressure center right here we've connected those and now what we're going to do is put the other line on for the oil cooler don't forget gotta make sure you put your you put your new o-ring on make sure that can spin all right so now I'll show you we put the lower hose in place you have the one down tube goes into the small opening the long neck is what attaches to the water pump and then the short loop this goes to the angled upward outlet of the thermostat okay just so you have a note top of the thermostat has two outlets you have one that goes up at an angle and one that comes straight up the one at an angle is what's going to get down to the lower hose this one's going to go to the upper hose we'll show you that when we get to that point so now we're just going to squeeze the clamp sign get those into place you can see we got our electrical connections in place and we have this hose in and now the upper hose this has got a short bolt that goes into the bottom and that's been installed and tightened up so then we're going to be ready to put that last bracket in alright so let's get that bracket down in place you can see we've got one two three four bolts that run through so here's the lower on the inside it's the easy one to see this way we can line that up and get that started and that'll make lining up the other three that much easier okay next is gonna be the cooling tube you can see we've got this torqued in place does this say hoses on we got some stuff here that eventually is going to get bolted to this bracket right now we just need to get these on so the tube essentially is tucked in right in the front of the intake manifold you've got an old ring on the back you want to make sure you put a new oil ring there we're going to put a little Vaseline on that and then just to get things started we'll put one bolt in there we'll need about a six or eight inch extension and a ten millimeter socket the reason we put this on after the brackets because there's a support bracket right here that bolts to the alternator support so you need that in place before you can put this tube in so now it's just a matter of we put that one bolt in there and then we're going to put one in the support bracket to support it alright so we put a bolt here in the support bracket so now this will just hold it in place and we can sneak in underneath and install these other bolts all right and now for the fun part in their infinite wisdom Land Rover puts the ignition coils buried back behind the upper plenum so in other words if we put the plan of mine you'd be almost impossible to put this on first off you can't even get to the bottom bolts once the plenum is in place and you can't really tighten them until you put the upper bolts in so what we normally do is we will lay this in place we'll put the two bottom bolts in and we're just gonna just snug them and then back them off just a little bit enough to give a little bit of movement the reason being is when we put the upper plenum on that has to slide underneath these holes so we've got to have some movement in there so that we can line them up and you were going to use the top bolts to secure this in place all right so we're gonna do we're going to drop this into place but before we go trying to put the bolts in place we have the two electrical connectors there's one and there's the other and each one of these gets plugged into each side this powers this side coil this powers this side and then basically one coil will power four cylinders and each coil pack has actually two individual coils built into it the other thing what we're gonna do is before we even grab those little bolts we're gonna put a rag over the top here because god forbid we dropped one down in the hole it will not be fun fishing it out all right so we got both the holes lined up we've got one started on one side now you can see these are hard to get at so if you put a little dab of our TV or you can even use grease and we're gonna do is put that on that socket and that's gonna hold that bolt so we can sneak it down in there location so we can get it started and then we're gonna do the same we did with the other one we'll run it down Snug it in and then just basically back it off about a half a turn just to allow enough slack so it'll wiggle so we can get those top bolts set alright so now we're gonna put the plug wires in now you'll notice most of the plug wire sets even after market for these are numbered you can see here's number one number three number five number seven so there's one three five seven two four six eight same thing on the other side so we're gonna just start plugging these in and what I do is I like to give a little shot a silicon in each one four one makes it go on easier adds a little extra protection to the boot and this way you feel the distinct set in when you put the boot on the plug you should actually kind of feel it click in just put that in your hold it right there and so that's seven threes number five it's gonna go in the middle right here I should hear that click then we'll just do the same thing to the other side alright so now we've got that all set up in the back we're gonna put the upper plenum on don't forget your steel gasket you've cleaned off the top surface of the lower manifold you have to raise dowels on here that are gonna basically give you the right location that's going to hold the gasket in place and then the manifold we self is gonna click on to those as well now if you get one it's a little stubborn we just put a socket over it now what we're gonna do is we're gonna set the manifold in place let's pull this up because we're gonna need this this will go on your idle air control motor because of the way this is set up when we put the plenum on we're gonna need to lift the front it's going to drop in we line it up with the front dowel lower it down and then lock it on to that dowel and then from there once we lock once we put the bolts in and lock down the upper plenum then we have to reach in the back and line up these two holes and run two bolts down through and this will actually bolt to the back of the upper plenum alright so now we're ready to put the upper plenum on we've taken the studs out of the sides and you can either put the studs back in after you put this in place or you can just get some six millimeter bolts three-quarters of an inch long and they'll work just as well so by doing that though it gives us a little more freedom to move this around and get it in place essentially what you're going to be doing is on the back the manifold you have these two bosses that come out these are the two bolt holes for the bolts that hold the top of the coil that goes over the top of this so what we're gonna do is go in in an angle and then drop it down and then move it so that we it drops on to the two locating dowels and once that's in place then it's just put the bolts in and lock them down and what I've done to is to save a little time you can bend this back out of the way here's the single bolt that we left in the manifold when we took this apart so we can just leave it in there and then of course it's going to go in in this position so I remember you've got a sink also a single bolt in the back and a single bolt in the front beside the three long ones that you're going to torque down so now it's just a matter of set this in place you may need a flashlight when you can see what you're doing is simply gonna walk this back slowly you can actually see how everything lines up all right so we've got our hardware right here take our three bolts drop those in and if you can't quite get your fingers in these front and back bolts what I've used is a tool and I'll show you in a second is a tool that called expanding fingers and it will grab around the head bolt and you can actually run it down spin it in and then come in with a socket extension a ratchet to torque it down all right so you can see what the tool does it'll actually hold the bolt on the end it gives you access to do a deeper area right here and you just run your finger down through the feel for the hole and by grabbing the head of the bolt you can actually use the tool to spin it in until you feel it seat down and we'll just do the rest with the socket and we'll do the same with the front bolt sleep in there yeah all right all right so we'll get a 10-millimeter socket extension ratchet and we'll torque those down all right so there is no torque spec listening and Land Rover's overhaul manual specifically for these bolts they have a general a general chart eight millimeter bolts they recommended torque to 13 foot-pounds I think that's a little bit on the loose side I don't have an exact torque spec to recommend but you see what I essentially do is run them until they're snug and then just give them just a little twist just to add some tension let them sit for a couple seconds and then go back and start from the middle and just will go around twice just to make sure everything is tight and even all right so now at this point we have this torque down now's a good time what we're gonna do is we're gonna connect the throttle body heater hoses remember we have this long one over here this is gonna go across because once you put your alternator and your AC compressor back in it's kind of tough to get them in there so I'll do those then you also have your PCV breather hose right here that's gonna go onto this spigot you want to check this black this black spigot or nipple on those because these have a tendency to loosen up so you want to make sure you snug that in you don't want any vacuum leaks there and of course plug in this is the vacuum line over to your brake booster you're gonna plug that in and then what you have right here is the one heater hose that has the hole for a bolt or where the stud was through the side you want to reattach that and then your other heater hose tube or lay up over the top we're gonna put a new bolt in there so that's essentially we're just gonna hook up all the in celery's we've also got for your emission controls you have your your control solenoid here this is going to plug into the throttle body and then your connector for your idle air motor so all that gets connected to this upper plenum and then we can go on to the next step the first one and the fun part is getting those two bolts for the coil to the manifold lined up because you're essentially going to do that by feel what you can do is you can move this big harness a little more out of the way so you can get your hand down in there and the rest is pretty much done by feel and this is why we leave the bottom bolts a little loose on that coil mount so that we can rock this back and forth and eventually get the hole lined up and get the bolt started yeah take a little patience a little time but you'll get it all right so here's a good example you find yourself having a hard time getting that ball lined up if you can get up like I have an expanding mirror that I can use in the back any mural work but what you can do that is angle it down so you can get a look at why you're not able to line up and you'll see like on this one what we've got to do is be able to move that bracket forward and we don't I didn't quite leave it loose enough on the bottom to do that so what we do is we take a little pry bar and then we just just gently move it back a little bit and now we know we can see the holes are lined up put a bolt in there get that lock down all right and then what we're gonna do next is put the throttle and the cruise control cable hook up on here because these two bolts at least one of them is sort of covered by the AC compressor so we're gonna put that off this way the whole upper plenum is all together by the time we're ready to put our two-inch hilary's on and our idler pulleys so you got two eight millimeter head bolts here I'll hook up that bracket we just sort of snug it and what you'll need to do is go to full open throttle you'll see a little slot in the top there slide the barrel in and then line up the slot to pop it fully in place just to make sure it's in there completely you know so you should be able to swivel that little barrel in there so then you know you're in properly and then the same thing with the cruise control slide that over so it lines up with the groove all right you should just have some slight tension on it should have just a little bit of free play on that not much and I will just get up millimeter socket tighten that up and we'll have everything together on the plane all right so just a quick review on the upper plenum because we want to make sure so we've tightened down the four bolts up top one in the back one one in the front for a total of six you have your connection here for your idle air motor you have your connection here for your admission control this is for the evap system this is the OP the purge valve so you have your electrical connection and then you have your hose connection right here this is just a pop in your breather hose and your throttle position sensor you've got your connector up in here so we're we're good there your two heater hoses to the throttle body heater and they're on nice and snug and they're in the back and then of course your two bolts and then we just showed you how to put the throttle cables on and we'll go around to the other side and we'll do a quick review on that all right and then on the passenger side course we have our the breather hoses connected and this clamp is on we've plugged in our vacuum line that feeds our brake vacuum booster our two heater hoses we have the Bolton on top that locks the two brackets so the hoses the metal hoses together along with the single bolt down now I'm going to make a note on this that on these engines without secondary air there's a spacer that goes between this hose bracket and the upper plenum and you would have found that when you took it off sometimes after these vehicles that they've been worked on once before somebody didn't put that spacer back in just a couple flat washers works just fine so that's in place and then of course everything else lines up here now you'll see two and this is kind of a neat trick you can actually take a razor knife and cut this rubber connector for these two hoses though you don't need to all right but just a note and then what we're gonna do then is you can see we have some exposed wire down here that I really don't like we're gonna get some plastic convolute to go over the top of that before we attach everything to this bracket and then we're ready to put the AC compressor and the alternator on alright so next step was what we're gonna do we're gonna tie in the heater hose you have there's actually a threaded hole behind this opening that's going to bolt and support this line up against the alternator mounting bracket and then you see you got two little brackets right here what you're going to want to use is this is a tie strap with what they call a Christmas tree on the end of it so you can wrap it around the wiring here and then plug the Christmas tree into that and that'll basically hold this up in here now as you just can see the old cover has starting to fall is falling off on this leaving the wire insulation exposed you see this piece right here I've installed just to cover up the wiring there we're gonna do the same with this we're gonna replace that convolute like I said you can buy that in any automotive center and then you've got your ground wire right here and that's going to be bolted right in this position from the front there's a threaded hole on the front of the bracket so then that'll get this all set so then the next step will be both the alternator and the AC compressor so just to give you a little overall look what we have is so you're our ground line is attached here our bracket that comes off of this hose is attached here we replaced convolute over the exposed wiring and then we've taken the wire ties with the Christmas trees and put them in place so that everything is essentially in its place so now we're ready to put the alternator on so alternator mounts on this bracket and what you have are these sliding shoes basically that are used to install the alternator and what they do is they actually slide within the bracket most cases once you've taken the alternator out and pried it out this one's already back in place this one you can I'll show you see how it hangs out leaves and area there you take your hammer and open up the space so the alternator will just drop in when you tighten it up it pulls those shoes in and locks everything in place and the only two wires that you need to attach are going to be your battery feed cable and then your field wire and you can see essentially just on the back of the alternator you've only got two positions so it's kind of hard to get it wrong and the alternator obviously is going to set in this position so we're gonna hook our wiring up first and then we're gonna set the alternator in there and then just as a tip there's a lot of hardware put aside on this and there's a lot of bigger bolts as we get towards the end as far as the hanging brackets the plainer why not you'll notice that the two alternator bolts have this goldish tone they're an anodized bolt so if you're not quite sure what bolts go on the alternator look for this gold-tone on the shaft and the size of the bolt and then those will be the correct ones for the alternator so next is gonna be the AC compressor and as you can see basically you just have four bolts up top there is a locating dial here which will help you to get it set up and located now as you remember we didn't have to disconnect the AC lines this is just been sitting here waiting for us to put it back together and what I normally do is before you slide the sign you got this back left-hand corner bolt always put that on first cuz what's gonna happen is when you get the compressor here in line you're not going to be able to install this bolt because the throttle linkage is going to be in a way so before you set it in grab one your alternator bolts and it'll actually help you line up a little better because that will locate in the back hole and then you've got your dowel in the front and now we'll just drop our three remaining bolts in this one will obviously have to put in tighten up with a wrench the other three if you have compressed air you can run it in with that or just do all them with a socket and a ratchet all right so now we're gonna start putting the pulleys on so we can get the belt on now one thing we did notice when we got into it this the original tensioner was binding up the to bet the two idlers one of them felt kind of rough so we actually offered this kit we can get both the idler pulleys and the tensioner if you're gonna put a new motor in you don't need any future problems for the low-cost that you can get this kit for it's well worth putting in you don't have to deal with the belt problem so what we're going to do then is we're going to install these and then we've got to put the water pump pulley on and the power steering pump which is just a matter of flying up the pulleys put your bolts in and tighten them up but just so you know you'll see that the two idlers are of different sizes the smaller pulley is going to be mounted here so you're going to want to put the tensioner on first and then the small pulley and then your large pulley is going to be located right here and then at that point we'll put the other two on alright so here's what the pulleys look like installed like I said small and on the bottom big one up top and then you want to give a little test spin just to make sure they're seated properly ok so spins got a little bit of resistance which is good that's a nice tight bearing and then the tensioner and then you always want to look in the back and make sure that the back of this is seated flat there's a locating pin that drops in so you're gonna slide that pin in to the hole in the back side of the bracket and then just move this up until your bolt drops in tighten it up and you're good alright so next is going to be water pump pulley and power steering pulley alright before you put the power steering pulley on and I've seen it done because it can be mounted in either direction so what you're going to do is basically look at the pulley and you're going to see the imprint of the I guess I would call the triangle of the pyramid which is the surface that's going to ride on the pond the pump itself you'll see the imprint on one side on the other you won't so obviously then this is the proper side to install against the power steering pump there is a difference in the offset so if you do install it backwards the belts not gonna line up right so you want to make sure you see that imprint and then on the water pump pulley you will see where there are marks on the ball holes where the original bolts went so you just want to reuse those because this way you know everything's gonna line up right so on the water pump pulley what I like to do is I'll turn this so that I've got one threaded hole straight up so I have an orientation because once I go to slide the pulley over I can't see those we'll set that bolt right in place and it's sort of lining up and you just roll it around a little bit to let bolt lines right up slight this up over the hub put the other two on now these don't require a great amount of torque and you can actually when you go to tighten these you can actually get your hand wrapped around that pulley and be able to tighten it again look for the tripod point that straight up it aligns itself right up alright so then we just put the last remaining two bolts in and then we get everything tightened up all right so now comes the fun part we're gonna put the belt on if you didn't take a picture before he took it apart to give you an idea of how its routed this is the best way to go about it we're gonna phone basically the belt like so and we've done a sag or a loop in the center and that loop is going to go around the power steering pulley okay then we're gonna go up and over the AC compressor and we're gonna go up and over the alternator around the tensioner and at this point we're not gonna worry about that little pulley and you'll see why in a minute then we're going under that made the steering too damp the crankshaft pulley up and over power steering pulley and around this larger idler yeah some things you got a slight go to get up so what that essentially does gets everything in place now of course rib side of the belt will always be on the ribs pulleys so you have alternator AC compressor power steering pump lower deeper and tension or old ribs so you should have rib sight on there now what we do is we take our wrench now this is a different size than the original with this kit they originally you'd have a 15 millimeter here but they have stepped up to a 16 millimeter put that up and won't push it down we're simply gonna just give us enough room to slide that belt up and over the little pulley and then before you take all let allow all the tension on there just a quick feel to make sure that the belt is fully seated and all the other pulleys wet up and there you are belts in place so next step then is going to be putting the fan shroud and the fan on and your upper radiator hose alright so very important we don't want to forget the dipstick now these use a very high vacuum PCV system as well as the emission control is also incorporated on there so literally any vacuum leak can create a drivability issue on these so when I put the dipstick in we're gonna actually run a bead of black RTV right around the base of this neural this is what seats down on the block where when we insert this and this way by the time we actually get to the point where we're ready to start it this will be pretty well be setup so we know we got a good seal so that's really all we're gonna do is throw a little little black RTV on that take our finger and just run around about the thickness of that raised area tick-tick-tick to and then we're just gonna basically slide it right down the hole see your hole right there now slide right in and then you have a threaded hole right here on the side of the valve cover and you flip this up this is going to line right up with it there and then once we run that screw in there let that our TV set up we'll be all set and then we can actually put our dipstick right inside the tube all right and of course you want to plug in your AC compressor and that's your great plug connector right here you push that into you hear the click and just put this down where it's really not rubbing against anything too severely and then we just have the one wire here for the mass air flow sensor we'll put that to the side all right so now what we're going to do is we're going to put the lower shroud in for the fan there are just bay there's two clips that attach on the bottom and then two Phillips screws on each side here then they're gonna hold that lock that down and then the fan and then the upper shroud and then the actually it's going to be the lower shroud the fan and we're going to do the radiator hose one thing I want to mention on these lay the thermostat if you taking a good look right here top of the thermostat has two outlets one goes off at about a forty degree angle one points straight up they're both the same size and I have seen where somebody could actually install it with this reversed which will actually cause an overheating problem so you want to make sure that the angled outlet goes to the lower hose which goes down to the water pump and the straight up is going to go to the upper radiator hose which also attaches here and here but just keep that note so the angle to the water pump straight up to the upper radiator all right so we put our Stroud we got two Phillips screws grab the bottom we pull out make sure that those tabs on the bottom if holding it in place and we just slide the fan in and we try to get it as square as possible you do I do it just the back of my hand up against the front of the fan clutch and if you just work it real slow eventually you'll hit a spot where it'll feel like the threads will catch and then from there you can just spin it on all right so I've put the upper hose in place but I want to show you basically how it looks should look when it's installed your so you have your bleeder cap right here your joined here at that front tube upper radiator and then of course down on the thermostat clamps are in place and you want to make sure you can feel that bulb that little bulge at the end of the nipples that you attach these to and they're there so that with the clamp behind it there's no chance of it coming off it's just a little security measure they built into these so you would just want to make sure the clamp is below or behind that bulge so that you know you've got it in a proper position all right so essentially we're ready at this point we've gotta just put the top cover on which is four screws that only turn the eternal 90 degrees in there in and then we'll put the air filter in the hose in and then we can put on our final colon line which is the overflow or the vent line that goes across into the expansion tank okay actually we're gonna do is we're going to put this the vent blind on now because this cover actually goes over the top of it you see these two raised areas right here actually is the channel that this is gonna rest in kind of acts as a sort of a support we just push that on there what I would suggest is if this host feels brittle at all nodes if you can't take it and flex it like that it feels like it's gonna crack and split replace it because more unlikely it's exactly what it's going to do very soon and you certainly don't want to risk your your new engine and all your work on a relatively inexpensive hose same thing were there anything else wearable on the engine if you're gonna put the time and money put a new engine on if the old hoses feel dried out put new hoses on it I've done that with every engine I've put in new hoses new belt anything basically rubber and flexible it's not worth the risk it's worth a little extra money for the security of knowing you've got a good system in there so it around a little bit so it lines up you see the cutout on the side there's for that hose you got one hop and just turn 90 degrees and you'll actually feel the screw come to a stop when it seats in there we go and just squeeze that upper hose a little bit and pop that right in place we're pretty much assembled there and now we just need to hook up the intake tube and the air filter assembly right just to make it easier now Chris the air filter you pulled it out so you get the idea it's basically a pop in I like to do is I shoot a little silicone spray on those rubber rubber sets that that goes into it just
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British in this video we're gonna touch on something that we've had a lot of requests for in the past that's a fairly common issue with some of these older 401 4 sixes and that's head gaskets we found a lot of our do-it-yourself technicians and a lot of shops have called me on different issues on these but the biggest thing basically is usually head gaskets so what we're gonna do is we're gonna give you basically a video on how to do that so first I want to talk about the kit that you're gonna need now of course you know like on the floral and the four six as of 1999 he went from gems to Bosch so you need to be able to identify which engine you have in your vehicle before you even begin and that you can get that information right off of our website so what we're going to do is we're going to show you on a Bosch which is a little bit more complicated than the gem so it might be a better one to be able to get into so what I'm going to show you first is the gaskets kit that we have available comes all in one set and gives you all the gaskets that you're going to need to be able to do the whole head gasket job now this is under our part number sa404b engine we do have one for the gems so you'll need to be able to find that in a website the other thing is and because they you normally recommend that you replace them with every head gasket job is going to be head bolts now these are torque to yield head bolts so the specification on these when you tighten them in is based on how many degrees you turn the ball and we'll get into that when we talk about reassembly but this is the head bolt kit that you'll need now if you want to go one step better we also have a stud kit available which will take the place of the head bolts I find this is a more reliable setup especially when you're dealing with aluminum engines because of the high expansion and contraction when they eat and cold so this stud kit is also available through us and we have this under a RP 4301 both of work that had the head bolts or other stud kid it all depends on how you want to put your engine together alright so before we even begin to just give you a few tips that'll make the job a little bit easier for you first off right off the bat obviously we're going to disconnect the battery disconnect the negative lead put that to the side this way you know as far as your alternator circuit and it's not gonna be live you're not gonna touch it and ground it out and cause any damage so we're gonna disconnect the battery we're gonna end up draining the coolant which I'll show you a nice little trick because on these they don't have a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator so I'll show you a nice little trick for getting that off first thing we would do then we would take off the fan shroud and the fan and I have a habit of I let the air out of the front tires which gets the nose down by about three and a half inches what makes it a lot easier to get to the hardware and whatnot towards the back of the engine the other thing you may want to do if you're not that familiar with the design this is first time taking one apart you haven't done one before it's a good idea to grab yourself if the coffee cans little plastic containers or whatever and then as you disassemble the engine you're going to put those that hardware from different segments in a container and you're going to market alternator hardware valve cover hardware and why not so when you go to reassemble it's a lot easier to identify what bolts go where and in general last but not least as I say once we've lowered the front end we disconnect the battery we're going to drain the fluid is bring your digital camera out or your smart phone when you get to an area where like say for your belt configuration or for the way the wiring is routed on one side take a picture of it before you disassemble it believe me it'll make it a lot easier when you go to reassemble so those are some tips to help get you started now I will show you how to drain the coolant alright so we're gonna start we're gonna remove the top of the fan shroud and base and all you've got is four Phillips screws and it's not even a full screw it's a turn 90 degree and release that'll pop pop this up or shroud off take the hose off and then what we'll do is get down to the the fan itself and we'll take that off so we remove the cover from the shroud now we're going to get into the fan now essentially I pre loosened this fan because with several different things you may run into one they may come off very easy where you're going to take your fan tool you're gonna run it down on the nut let it sit on there you want to do this between the blades so that you're not gonna crack a fan blade on this and just take a nice rubber mallet or something with some weight give it a I shot now 50% of the time that'll just break them loose and allow you to take the fan off but in this case we had one where we had a lot of problems and you can do several different things you can take a long straight blade screwdriver sneak it behind a tool and jam it between the water-pump hub and one of the pulley bolts there's also a tool available through Land Rover that is a long flat bar that will drop over and actually grab around all those bolts on the pulley and allow you to hold it and get some leverage if you're in the shop I know I've had to do it several times is a long air chisel extension and then just work the nut and just slowly work it off in this case we had to basically turn this off almost all the way before I finally loosened up so these can get on there pretty tight so be prepared to spend some time on this if yours is in that condition so once we've reached that point we've been able to unthread it and this is a right hand thread we just want to mark that because some of the newer land rovers have gotten left-hand thread on the Jag engines on these on the four on the four six this fan is a right hand thread so we have that off we're going to set that aside for a minute and then what we're going to do now is we're going to remove this shroud there's two 10 millimeter head bolts that'll take the shroud off remove the belt we'll show you how to do that and then at that point we'll show you how to drain the colon on this so next step is going to be removing the belt and as I said earlier what you want to do is pull you out your cell phone your camera or whatever if you're not really familiar if it's the first time you've done this to look at the routing on the belt which runs under the damper over the tensioner or over the idler around the tensioner over the alternator and then down and under the water pump pulley up and over the AC pulley behind another idler pulley and then your power steering pump so take a good picture of that and then this way later on when you go to put everything together you use know where it's supposed to go so the group of the book remove the belt you have your tensioner on the passenger side here it's a 15 millimeter head bolt you can go one of several routes you could use a long ratchet with a 15 millimeter socket you can use belt tensioner they make me sell these everywhere this is a long extended bar with various tips on to fit different vehicles and you can use that as the tensioner I prefer this and using this for years and that just pops on there and you're gonna push down which will lift the tensioner flip the belt right off the bottom idler and pop it right back off you can take the belt off and set that aside alright so the next step is gonna be to drain the coolant out of this vehicle now you notice there is no drain plug on the bottom of the radiator the factory tells you you disconnect the lower hose which means you're going to be standing under this when you let go you really don't want to do that either so what you can do you can drain about 3/4 of the cooling system out just by taking there's one bolt out of the water pump and we're going to show you where that is alright so there's the location of the bolt this is the lower of the two eleven-sixths are 11 millimeter bolts you'll know that because the rest of the bolts that hold the water pump to the front cover are 10 millimetre heads and you can see this one hoots like it had some slight leakage so it's easy to see that it actually does attach to a coolant line so I want you to take that out that's drained about 3/4 of the colon out of the block just don't forget to put a pin underneath to catch it so next step now is going to be to remove this upper hose let's get this out of our way what I did to is it gave a little pre spray of some penetrating oil on the clamps you'll notice that if you don't do that they're a little dry they come off hard shoot a little oil on them and everything comes off much easier now you have warm clamps on this particular connection but at the other ends you have the squeeze clamps before you get this hose off we're gonna take the little bypass hose off take account if you have the original hose on there these get kind of hard and brittle so you want to flex it as little as possible so I like to get this one up and out of the way because it also somewhat interferes would take in the air box and the intake tube out we'll work that off and then basically just set this down and in front of the radiator so it's out of the way less the chance of breaking it so then we're gonna take our squeeze clamp nice pair of water pumps does a great job on these so I'll take that off and then we're gonna back off the one that's here at the thermostat just lift that off there no then it's just a matter of you recently moved to wins and we'll take that clamp off and we'll get this right out of the way it's something I'll mention it of course is taking the hose off and sometimes where these hoses have been on for a long period of time they really stick on there and they don't just twist off so there's a handy tool you can get you can buy these from any tool supplier it's just nothing more than a sort of a bent pointer and you can use that to get up underneath the hose and break it loose from wherever it's attached just work it around back and forth a little bit and that separates it and once you've done that at least three-quarters of the way around you should be able to just spin that out and remove it there we go and now that hoses out now as you go through and you disassemble any engine this is a good time to be looking at different components that wear that you may look ahead of time and say okay this is Warren I'm gonna replace that as well and this way you can get your parts together before you start your assembly when you look at a hose and you look down inside which one will check out the corners on the inside if you see vertical lines in there the Nets telling you that basically the hose is starting to wear on the inside and material is breaking down that material eventually is going to end up in your reading or your heater core and to plugging it up so any sign of real way or inside these hoses you want to replace them if you see any residue or buildup on the junction that's telling you you got a leak there same thing with down on the other end of the hoses wherever you can look down in and see corners just look for lines and striations that indicate the hoses are worn this one actually internally looks pretty good I end up reusing this one now we're going to remove the top of the air box and the intake tube you have worm gear clamp here and you have what the happens these little pop Clips here and these you just get up underneath with a pick and you're gonna lift and it releases now usually recommend or I try to either put these clamps in my little plastic container or just wreak lamp them so that they stay on the hose so when I go to reassemble I can find all my clamps so then we unclip that again we kind of pretreated this clamp a little penetrating oil so it spins off much easier you just want to make sure that's good and loose and then you have two clamps here that you just pop and lift back and then your mass airflow sensor connector you're just going to squeeze the top of it you have to squeeze and tabs on both sides and most times you need a little screwdriver just to work it off a bit and move that out of the way down there twist at that off now there's an o-ring inside this air box you want to make sure one that it's there I've had vehicles come in where that was missing and also if it's expanded or if it's deteriorated and cracked because you want to make sure you have a good seal between the two so you're not pulling in debris bypassing the air filter so we'll set that aside just for a second we have a clamp here and we have a clip here and then we just lift up the back side and we lift the top of the air by ourselves now is a good time take a look at your air filter yeah I think will be replaced in that one so now if you want and very easy to do the bottom of the airbox which actually that area makes a nice shell for when we go to take the AC compressor off this is just a matter of lift until it pops it just pops into plastic grommets this would be harder in for real cold weather so keep that into account if you're working out in your driveway especially now during the winter months and then we're gonna open that up a little bit we have our cold air intake where it attaches to the fender it's just 210 millimeter nuts which I think they're even too plastic the plastic once we get them off make sure you put them in your little plastic container where you're keeping your hardware that just pops right out and we lift that out and now you see we have a nice area we can put depression when we take it out also again nice little tip you got to ground headers right here on this front firewall and these are actually rather important a lot of your sensors ground on these two points while you got the box out it would be a good idea to back them off clean them up a little bit and retighten them back up just to make sure you got a good ground hide so as we mentioned the AC compressor we're going to set it here to take the compressor off we just have a single electrical connector right here push your tab sometimes these squeeze hard there we go you can actually hear it click when it releases and then we have four ten millimeter bolts and this one in the back these you just loosen up with a wrench you really can't get a straight socket on it as you can see your throttle cable and your cruise control cable alright so we have our four bolts out we're gonna leave that back one in obviously can't get it out anyway we'll take a long bar we want to pop that loose because there are two locating dowels that will lock on on the Sun a little bit so what's great about this is we're gonna run that wire under there and you don't have to disconnect your AC so we don't have to worry about redoing it when we're done as you can see we got a nice little holding area right there and keep it out of the way now that we have the belt off now it's a good time to be checking all your pulleys we're gonna do a little spin on the alternator the tensioner so you know this one is kind of stiff and grinding we're gonna definitely replace that pulley there should essentially spin relatively free a little bit of resistance and definitely no grinding and the power steering you want to make sure you feel a little resistance there and now's a good time to grab the water pump pulley and give it a little wiggle let's see if we have any play if you feel any loose play now it's the time to replace that water pump so now what we're gonna do disconnect the battery and we're gonna remove this bracket which is the mouth of the AC compressor we'll do that by taking these three bolts out here you need to remove this pulley because there's a nut retainer nut on the backside behind this that you're going to need to remove to take this off there is a bolt on the side here holding the power steering hoses we're going to take that off we have this bolt right here you've got three long bolts that go through the bracket into the block we'll remove those and this whole aluminum assembly will come right up and out and the power steering pump is just going to be left to the side alright so as I was saying this bracket is going to be coming out and we're gonna set this down well it's a good tip to do right now find yourself a big piece of cardboard or a piece of masonite or what and you're gonna set it right down inside in front of that radiator and essentially is just to protect the radiator so as we are moving brackets and bolts and heavier objects you want to make sure that you don't slip and hit that radiator and end up now having to replace the radiator on top of your head gasket job so it's a good tip protects the radiator save you a lot of money and grief if you don't so before I take this off I just want to show you how to back them out so you can sell these are the bolts that you're going to remove there's two here which we had to remove the pulley here which is nothing more than just 13 millimeter head run the nut out in the pulley and the nut and that bulk come right out you have a bolt here and then this was the nut that Ike was mentioning earlier you take that off because that stud runs through from the head all the way through the power steering pump to the bracket and once we take these three out we can back this out now I noticed on this one normally there's a bolt right here it's more like that's what you're going to run into when you pull the AC compressor up this one in particular was missing we'll replace that when we put it back together but look for a bolt here too that you're gonna need to remove to take the bracket out take the bolts out and then we're going to just take this bracket with the power steering lines and everything and set it right down in the hall I'm right up against the cardboard protecting our radiator and that moves that out of the way without having to break open the power steering system we drain any fluid out of it so now you see the bracket out of the way you can see how much room you develop there and now we're gonna move over to the other side we're going to centrally I've been taking the long-handled 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a 13 millimeter socket on it and use that to basically break loose the bolts from there but most cases they'll come right out and you have a ground cable we're gonna disconnect this there's gonna be a 10 millimeter head bolts on this bracket right here holding the cables in place we're gonna remove that take this bolt out to remove the belt tensioner and we're gonna take this bolt out to remove this lower pulley because we're going to replace this pulley anyway just pull your shot and then once we run this bolt and this bolt out what we'll need to do is take a pry bar to get the alternator out because we have what's basically an expanding socket in here so that when we tighten these bolts it blocks everything down in place and you'll see once I get it off I'll explain a little bit further alright so now doing the passenger side bracket in the alternator and the cables and why not I started a new little container here so I control the parts in two things I'll know the alternator bolts because when we go to put this back together you want to be able to easily identify what went where and that one normally what I do is like with the tensioner and the pulley I leave the bolt right in it and I just stash that to the side so this way I know there's one two less bolts I need to identify the bolts for the alternator you'll notice have a goldish tone because these are anodized the rest of them you'll see are more of a silver color on the shaft but the two bolts that go for the alternator have a gold-tone so they're easy to identify and you want to be careful with this because when you're trying on the bottom side of this you have these fins so you don't want to put too much effort on that to break a pin get to the hardware now we disconnected the battery because otherwise if we didn't this Cable will be 12 volts hot which means you touch this to ground anywhere you're gonna get a lot of sparks so battery's disconnected we're safe there we got a 13 millimeter nut holding the cable on and then a 10 millimeter nut for your field wire we're gonna remove both of those and we have the alternator out of the way so next step is going to be the removal of this bracket the alternator mouth we've already disconnected the 10 millimeter head bolt so we've got this this mount is disconnected we have the cables disconnected at least on the heart and you'll notice now before we can remove this bracket we have another bracket off of this cooling tube right in front of it so we're going to need to remove this coin tube and that's nothing more than three 10 millimeter head bolts here here and then one underneath we'll get that out of the way and then I'll show you the four bolts you need to remove to remove this bracket just to note on the back side of this where it attaches to the intake manifold there is an o-ring we want to make sure we get the old one out of there and then you'll be getting a new one when you get your gasket set so you can discard this and I wouldn't reuse these anyway never you reuse an old o-ring so before I take them out you just want to show you the locations of the four bolts that hold this bracket in we have one two three right here and four just below it into the right we take those four bolts out and this mounting bracket comes right out now I had mentioned earlier as far as the sliding studs that hold the alternator in you can take a small hammer and tap what looks like a flat washer an inch in open the area you'll tap these in a little bit because they're mounted on rubber you might would even shoot a little penetrating oil on it before you do that and then this way when you go to put the alternator back in you'll have a little bit of free space and you won't have to try to hammer the alternator back in it'll drop right in put your bolts in and when you tighten them up it'll move this a barrel so that it locks in against the alternator all right so it's gonna take that out of the way and we'll have basically everything out of the front of the engine that we need to remove so here's the bracket removed and like we mentioned earlier so that we don't get basically lose track of what bolts go where you'll just leave the bolts sit and right in their holes and we'll set the bracket down to the side and now there won't be any back together so now that we've taken care of what's in the front of the motor and now we're gonna start looking at and disassembling the top end next we'll obviously going to be the upper intake manifold now I'm gonna go through the basics as far as the stuff that's going to be common to both the the vehicles not equipped as this is with secondary air and then we'll also touch base on some of the additional items that you need to remove off of this when you if you do have a no.3 204 with a 4 6 secondary air or even the 4 liter with California emissions they'll have secondary air so begin with we're gonna get the throttle cable out of the way where we can just lift up and that will pull up the throttle and open it will turn the will turn this barrel and there's a small opening right here that will allow you to sneak the cable out we'll just hold that open and let's make the front cable out the front and we'll snake the back cable out the back then we're gonna disconnect these two bolts right here and then we can move both cables right out of the way next is going to be removing the 2 : hoses that go to the throttle body heater now you'll notice on this this has got two regular clamps on them but they call a worm gear clamp original equipment it will be a squeeze clamp like we saw right here and like we've disconnected up top where we just put it all underneath and we lift it and pop it in this case I'll need a Phillips screwdriver we'll take these two off be careful with this plastic hose it it becomes very brittle just like we discussed on the one that runs across the top of the radiator so when you're going to move it over just be a little careful on its movement try not to twist it or catch it on anything so we're just gonna back those clamps up and we're gonna pull those two hoses off so file cable out of the way we've got a two hose is disconnected next what we're gonna do is this is the vacuum line to feed your brake booster and this has got nothing more than a quick disconnect you'll see a little holding bracket right here matter of fact you may want to take a picture of that so when you go to put this back together you know which way it goes so we'll pop that up and that'll pivot on there now we're going to push in you can take a pair of needle-nose or a regular pair of pliers you're gonna hold that red cap in against the manifold and then pull the hose out and that moves that out of the way more than likely there should be a clamp here or something to seal off this is another vacuum line there actually this is a breather hose and we'll move that out of the way and always check this little plastic nipple these loosen up on quite a few vehicles which can create a vacuum leak now is a good time before you take it off just snug it in or you can take it off put a little sealer on the thread and run it back in that would just take a 9/16 or fourteen millimeter wrench on that and that comes right out that just threads in the manifold so then by doing this it exposes this little bolt right here which holds your two heater hoses on to the intake manifold and then another down here right underneath this tube and we're gonna take that out so that we can move this hose in this line right up out of the way so we've taken the bolt out from below the heater hose line going into the intake manifold we've taken the top bolt out and we've moved that outer hose down and tucked it underneath the cruise control motor that just holds it out of the way the harness we've got sitting here we'll worry about later now at this point this tucks into an o-ring into the manifold and these usually will stick in there pretty good so what you'll essentially need to do give it a couple wraps that kind of loosen things up a little bit and then we're going to take a straight blade screwdriver and you can just get in behind that and what we're gonna do is just keep working that and you may actually Bend this bottom tab a little bit and don't worry about that you can just hammer it right back down it's not gonna do any real damage just say like I said these do stick in pretty good and we'll just keep working it a little bit what you can do if it's really got a tight one you can back it out a little bit to create an opening and we'll shoot some penetrating oil down in there let it sit about five ten minutes and then this should pull right out all right so now we're on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold and the basically the last things we need to take off of this one there's going to be this breather hose right here this will pull off the the nipple you have your throttle position sensor with your connector right here pop that connector out by just twisting this little tab and push down on the connector that takes that out then we have the vacuum line that feeds the purge valve for the evaporative control that has to squeeze buttons on this connector you're going to squeeze on both sides that will take that out we can basically pop that out of its holder right here and then we're going to disconnect that electrical connector and this way we then can take this part of the harness and work it around through the other side of the vehicle now I'm taking their vacuum line off of the purge for the purge valve as they said there's a button on each side of this connector and they're a little difficult to get at this is a tool that's made actually for removing trim plastic trim buttons and whatnot on trim and fender wells and why not and I find by simply by design this grabs right around both sides and you can push both buttons in then work that right off it makes that job a lot easier and you can actually use the same tool when we go to disconnect the fuel line off the back of the lower intake and we'll get to that later now next step is to remove the upper intake manifold now on this vehicle it's not equipped with secondary air but you'll find like on California models with secondary air and with o3 2:03 and o4 4.6 that they also have secondary air so what you'll be dealing with they'll be actually a valve sitting on a a white tube sitting here and here and it will be held in place by two studs with two ten millimeter nuts on the side of the upper intake now I found it to make it easier on the removal have taken removed the nuts and then remove the studs that are left and then what this will do is allow you to raise the upper intake without having to completely disassemble the the diverter valves now the valve sit on two corrugated pipes that are attached to two tubes that are threaded into the heads and I found the best way on those is if you take a long punch and give the big nut at the base of that y tube where it attaches to the adapter to the head you give that a couple good sharp wraps and generally they will just come right loose and come right out then you can take the vowels out out of the way there'll also be a large vacuum harness that runs across the front and over to a control valve that would sit right about here and then you also would have a sort of oval egg-shaped black plastic container here that would also have two vacuum lines to it and you would just disconnect that at this point because now your alternator and your AC compressor out and you can move that and I just wanted to give you a brief rundown on that I'm sorry we don't have one here to show you but the explanation I just gave should give you a pretty good idea what you need to do now in this vehicle and then also with the type with the secondary air once you've gotten that the tubes and the valves out you're just going to remove for ten millimeter head bolts in the center and there's another ten millimeter down in the back and another ten millimeter Center front there are also two small eight millimeter if they're the original bolts two small eight millimeter bolts that attach the top of the coil bracket to the upper intake and you're just going to sneak down in there with an extension what you can do is pop out the throttle cable to move that over and then there are spring clips that hold this wiring harness in rolling this forward we can get straight in with an extension to get to those two back bolts so that's what we're going to do now and we're gonna lift this upper intake out so we have everything unbolted so we're just gonna pop this up we're gonna lift up a little bit so it clears the there's actually a locating dowel about 3/4 of the way in under here you also gonna have an electrical connector on the backside of the idle air control motor you just squeeze there's a little bar that runs across you squeeze that and pull that connector off and then shoot for you I'll pull the upper intake off so what you have remaining is the lower intake we have the 8 electrical connectors to the all the injectors and then the ignition coil we're gonna remove and then we can access the fuel line down below now the this coil has got a small 8 millimeter head bolt here and then one here once you disconnect those you can lift this up a little bit and there's also an electrical connector on each side which also has a little spring bar that you can press and release it from the coil so that's the next thing we're going to do is we're going to pull we're gonna disconnect it all the spark plug wires off the spark plugs on both sides disconnect and remove the two bolts lift this up take the two connectors out and then we can take the ignition coil and a wires out one assembly now on this particular vehicle and actually on some of the original equipment there gray wires the number of the cylinders numbered right on the wires before you start pulling these off make sure yours are numbered if they are and tag them so that when you go to put this back together you do n don't you would end up putting them back in the right sequence alright then what I've done in this trick works really nice your two air conditioning lines in the back this is very bendable very mobile metal it's generally a high-tensile aluminum so we're just gonna actually pop them back just a little bit you can use a piece of wood what this does essentially it gives us just enough clearance to sneak that coil out of there because it is pretty tight pretty tight fit the other way you can do is to unbolt the on lower intake and slide it forward a little bit and slide this out but I'm just used to doing it this way and it works and we disconnected the two wires off the side and we're just gonna lift that right up and out of there let's pull the wires through if you've tagged your wires just be careful not to pull your tags off so just to show you here here's our electrical connector on one side you see the little metal bar across the top you're just gonna press down on that till you hear it click and that pops right off and we'll do the same to the other and we lift the coil right up and out of there what we're gonna do now is then we're gonna disconnect the electrical connections to the injectors and we should be able to move this engine harness right up and out of the way so now we're down to the lower intake which is going to be nothing more than 13 millimeter head bolts all the way down the line we've got two four six and then six on the other side we've popped off the injector wire and you just kind of moved everything out of the way which really opens up the work area gives you plenty of room to work we're going to take all those bolts out break the lower intake loose because they get they stick on pretty well and move it forward maybe about an inch or so so we can reach down in the back and we're going to disconnect the fuel line and we can have that lower intake out we're at the point now we wonder we've got this all unbolted and as I say these stick and they stick pretty good so what we're gonna do is going to take a flat blade screwdriver you can use a hard scraper or whatnot we're going to get down at an angle from here and the reason we don't want to start here or hit into this because we have a water jacket right here on the intake manifold and we definitely don't want to do any cut any gouges or create any depressions where the gaskets gonna have a hard time sealing so we're just going to run this straight down let's do stick a little bit so now we're gonna reach in the back and all we need to do now is just disconnect that fuel line in the back and we can pull this right up and out alright so down the back behind the lower intake you can see the fuel line comes up and then goes to this connector right here and this is going to be similar to that solenoid that we disconnected earlier you get a little push button right here and then there's one identical to it on the other side just reach down squeeze those two tabs and usually works better if you grab the connector push into the tube squeeze the two buttons and it should come right out next step is going to be removing the valve covers now on the valve covers you've got four bolts and they are eight millimeter 12-point so you're gonna need an eight millimeter or a 5/16 12 point socket preferably quarter-inch drive so that'll fit down that little well that they put the bolts into and that's I sort of have a long swivel which works really well and you're gonna just remove the four bolts and give it a tap now on the driver's side you have a small Phillips head screw that holds the dipstick onto the valve cover now once you take the screw out I found that if you use a carburetor cleaner or a varnish remover and just squirt some down on the bottom of this you're gonna let it sit for a minute and you should be able to work that right up and out of the blocks and get it out of your way so we're gonna take the driver's side off first and once we take the two bolts out on the inner and then we're going to take a short stubby Phillips so we'll take that little screw out that's right on the side here and then we'll take the two bottom bolts out and lift this valve cover right out so we'll move the harness out of the way we've taken the four bolts out we took the screw out of the dipstick and we're just gonna lift this up and away throw the old gasket away and you can see in here we've definitely have had some coal and oil mix in there that's what that milky color is so we're on the right track working our way down to the heads and we're gonna see what those gaskets look like we get them apart another good thing to do take a quick look up top see the condition of the rockers see if anything is odd or out of place looks good just needs to be cleaned off and that's the other thing too is if you have the opportunity I don't know what facilities you have but if you have a local engine shop or whatnot it would be good idea even if you don't have the parts rework at least have them hot tanked cleaned off this way all the gasket surfaces are clean the upper surfaces are clean and just generally won't look a lot better - when you get it done so we're gonna move this out of the way and I can say with the dipstick there fortunately this one nice and loose you just grab the little bracket and just work that back and forth and pull that right up and out on the block and we'll move that out of the way next step is now we're going to take the rocker arms off now remember that you're going to have spring pressure on some of these because of the valve and the camp positioning so when you back these four bolts off you have one two three and four you're gonna back them off just a little bit at a time start from the middle and work your way outward and then just back it out if you end up taking one out completely and then the other can cause a twist and I've even seen it where it snapped the rocker shaft and because it created too much tension so we're gonna take these out a little bit at a time we're going to do both sides take the pushrods out now usually it's recommended that you're going to want to put the push rod back in the same position it was in when you go to put the engine back together because not the the way the push rod seats in the rocker they're not going to be identical all the way down the line it's going to be a little bit different wear on it sometimes that can create a little noise in the engine so when you take the push rods out number on my mark them with a piece of tape or whatever so when you're going to put it back together they go back in the same way so we've taken our rockers off we've pulled the push rods mark your oil your push rods you'll probably feel that when you pull them up you yanked a couple of lifters out which is fine because the next step is going to be pulling the intake gasket out and it's just a matter of this bolt right here and then one identical in the back half-inch socket zip those out we're going to take these two top block downs off and then with a scraper we can just work our way around and lift the whole paint assembly right up and out and then at that point we'll be ready to take the heads off so we're just going to zip this off all right so let me just gonna take a scraper and whip this up now a note the two bolts that you took out of this the one in the front in the back has a different thread than any of the other bolts in this engine they went with a 5/16 coarse thread bolt so you want to make sure that you either mark them or keep them separate or just that you understand by looking at them that you're going to have to use those two same bolts in this position you can't use them anywhere else in the edge so just on that note get this scraped up pull this out of here and you'll see a couple of lifters popped out which is fine because we're actually gonna we'll set them back in place if you're going to continue on after removing the heads to strip the block down probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the lifters in which case you want to take the new ones and soak them in a tub oil before you put them back in just to get them filled with oil okay so everything back there and we take our intake and we get rid of this and reuse it so the next step is to remove the heads now you had two approaches that we can do on this you can either disconnect the catalytic converters from the exhaust manifolds and once you take the head bolts out take the head and the manifold out one Paul or you could take the bolts out that attach the manifold to the head remove the head leaving the exhaust manifolds in place probably a matter what's more convenient for you as far as how to access it me and I have a lift I can get to the six bolts underneath is relatively easy if you're doing this on the floor then you may want to remove the exhaust manifold bolts now the exhaust manifold bolts are a twelve millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you have that style socket before you go taking this off now two things to look at before you take the heads off or before we even begin with the head bolts is there's a 13 millimeter head bolt in the back that in some cases early early Bosch will have no ground wire there but they will have the harness you can see that loop right there there was a bolt went through that into the head to hold the harness in place and then straight down in the back of the left side head is the connector for the cranks crank shaft speed sensor and that is going to be kind of inaccessible you're gonna have to take a long screwdriver you need to pop it out of a bracket that just simply a fork a bracket that holds that connector and you get in with a long screwdriver and what I just pop that out of there sometimes you can even be gonna pull just ahead and leave the exhaust you can break it loose move it forward just a little bit will give you a little bit better access but it's in a crazy place it's hard to get at but just so you know it's there so what we're gonna do is now we're gonna grab a breaker bar and five-eighths you 5/8 or 16 millimeter socket and we're gonna break all these head bolts loose and then I'm gonna put this up in the air and take the six bolts off the exhaust manifolds alright so as I said what we're gonna do is we're gonna disconnect there's three nuts on each side that will disconnect the exhaust manifold from the catalytic converters this is the way I prefer to take it off like I said you can do it from up top it's a little bit harder but if you don't have easy access underneath the vehicle then yes it'll be easier for you so what we're gonna do is they're half-inch you got three nuts on each side these actually look relatively clean we're gonna take those three off drop the vehicle back down and then we'll get the bolts out of the heads and then lift the heads right off the engine alright so as I mentioned before we've taken the six bolts out from underneath now just a note a lot of times because they've been down there and a number of these vehicles have been around for a while they will rust in place you may try to heat them up to take them out some of them we snap the stud in the manifold which it did in this case in a couple places if you're in a shop that's fine because when you pull the heads the manifolds are coming with it you'll have easy access to either drilling or blowing out with a torch if you don't have those facilities you can always just take the manifold off the head take it to a shop having new studs in it the studs are available on these so the next step is going to be now that we've got the bolt out of the back the connector for the crank position sensor out of the back now it's just a matter of there's ten head bolts now when you take them out you're going to notice the top three Center are going to be longer than the rest take that in note so when you go to put the new ones in and once we get the bolts out I'll show you a little trick on how to lift that up and out of there alright so when you're taking the head off one thing I wanted to mention there also that there's a braided ground strap right here this runs down in both to the back of the head you have a ten millimeter nut here you only need to take that nut out and you'll take the strap out with the head also this is the time when you're going to use that five ace Universal socket this is the one that you're going to need to get to that back bolt in this back corner otherwise this is really tough to get at and it's nice because the universal design limits the twist on it so you're not fighting against yourself trying to get it out of there so this is the point where you're going to use this tool and you really only need it just for that one bolt the rest of them will come out with it with a straight bolt with a straight socket now we've got all the head bolts out we've got the lower three bolts out we're going to show you a little trick I'm pulling the head because you're probably wondering okay now we've got the manifold in the head together have a fair amount of weight they're really not that bad so what we're going to do is we're going to reinstall the rocker shaft without the push rods because then we don't have to deal against any spring pressure why not and you don't even really even need to put the bolts in all the way just just about half way you have to support the weight without want any damage to any of the threads and I would suggest do all four don't just do the inner to the outer so this way all this should be the weight a little bit better all right so the trick is we're gonna take two shop rags now that we put the rocker back in place we put the bolts in about half way and we'll talk a couple shop rags just underneath the rail all right so we're ready to pull this out and what we've done is we're thinking to shop rags and tuck them underneath the rail so that you have a handle you say we've run these bolts in about half way it doesn't take it's not a lot of weight but it just makes it easier and then what we're gonna do is just lift straight up take the head right now all right so at this point we've got the head out just to show you here was that connector for the crank position sensor that you can see it's kind of in a very hidden spot and you'll notice that prior to that we've got all the wiring up out of the way so now is a good time they give the gasket an inspection to see if this was your culprit you can slowly peel this off you can see we've had a little bit of blow-by between the cylinders this may be the possibility of a cracked piston we'll have to clean that all off before we can make a determination it could just be water stain so we'll move our gasket up and out of the way and then now we're going to do the same thing with the head on the other side get both heads off and then we're going to do an inspection to see if we have a slip sleeve which these engines are notorious for it's an aluminum block with a steel sleeve that is not pinned or fastened down in any way shape or form from the manufacturer so there are times where they can get hot and the sleeves will move a little bit or the block can crack underneath the sleeve which you'll see traces of coolant so we're gonna go through a basic inspection on that and we'll show you how to do that so at the point now we want to do our clean up before reassembly and this is actually as critical as doing prep work for a good paint job you want to make sure you got everything clean you've done your inspection to see exactly what your cause was why you pulled the heads to begin with and what we found was of course the the back of by number eight cylinder the head gasket in this area between this coolant galley and the cylinder was drawn in : you can see how basically it's steam cleans the solder as opposed to the buildup and whatnot you have any other combustion chambers so what we're gonna do is we'll give you a few tips on how to clean this up usually if they're like really loaded up with grease and oil and whatnot and get some engine degreaser and a pressure washer you get it cleaned off you can see this is reach the level where that's acceptable to put back on we've taken the spark plugs out we have all the gasket surfaces out and essentially at this point all you really need to do is get the OL the gasket surface is clean and dry so that the new gaskets have a good surface to adhere to so what I normally like to do is I'll take a small scraper why not now this is aluminum so we're not going to dig we're just gonna basically write the the scraper over the top and just get the heavy stuff off and we'll do that all the way around until we get it all out we're going to keep this at a good low angle so that we're not digging into the aluminum at any point and then you'll do the same thing on your intake gasket area here now remember you have usually your intake port so these are : you definitely don't want to dig into the aluminum there and then on your exhaust side same thing you're gonna scrape off the heavy area and Buzz that off again it's good to have this the spark plugs out because we're gonna clean those holes out as well and then the next step would be you can take a small brass and I recommend brass not steel especially in the aluminum head and we'll just work our way around in the combustion chamber clean off the top of the valve you see it takes it off pretty easily and we'll get around up in there and then what I can do is you can do one of two things if you don't have air power which where I use a little angle head die grinder with the 3m what we referred to as a cookie and we'll end up buzzing all this off now this is basically example but on an aluminum head you would use a blue cookie they actually are made in several different coarseness and the blue is the very fine which is all you need to just basically take the surface down nice and clean you don't have the air power you can actually go out and buy a pair of scotch-brite again you know this is a very fine so this is what you want to use on aluminum and we'll use that to clean up the surface and then we do is if you don't have the the tool you can take it to a small machine shop or why not this is essentially an engine straight edge and this is actually an edge that is accurate to a half a thousandths of an inch and what you'll do is you're gonna place it in different angles on the head and then with a flashlight on the backside you're gonna look to see if any light is visible through the backside this is going to tell you have some warpage and you can tell how much by just sliding a feeler gauge in there until it's nice and snug but this is what we're going to use to basically test all the surfaces on both the head and the block and the preparation for the top of the block is going to be the same as this we're just gonna lightly scrape off the heavy stuff and then take the rest down at a 3m and the other thing you want to watch and the cylinder heads here and here these are your oil galleys that feed oil up to the rocker assemblies so you want to take a pipe cleaner or a small drill bit or whatever and just run it through there and you're going to find is usually gunk built up in there you want to make sure these are clean the same on the block you have these two galleys lined up in the same area same thing you can run a small drill down through it or a pipe cleaner just to get the gunk cleaned out of it dipped in mineral spirits does a really nice job cleaning it out and the mineral spirits do no harm when you eventually start the vehicle up this so little in there mix right in with the oil it doesn't cause a problem okay so essentially that's the rundown on cleaning up the head and I'll show you a finished product just to give you idea how you should look before you put it back together that's right so there you are you see you're basically your combustion chambers we've got all the heavy stuff cleaned out your gasket surface is nice and cleaned there's your intake surface again nice and clean we've put the straightedge on all of this and we determine that the heads are in good shape same thing on the exhaust and we have a nice clean glass you'll notice when you took the exhaust manifolds off some of the areas you're gonna find a double gasket it from the factory so take note of that where those double gaskets were because on some cases you may need to do that because the heads are nice and straight but the exhaust manifolds they're not built to the thousandths of an inch so sometimes one area is a little less pressure here to create a seal so they double gasket to make up for that so just keep that in mind other than that you just head and once we get that one done these heads will be ready to put back on the engine you
Watch, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, discuss the replacement of the fuel filler door latch, Kit # DA1114 (Formerly Kit # FFFLR), for LR3 and Range Rover Sport. These door latches commonly fail with age, so Doug will show you the 2-part installation, to get your fuel filler door working like new again. In the kit, you will receive all the components needed to make the repair.
Replacing the Fuel Filler Latch on the Range Rover Sport or LR3, Repair Kit # DA1114 (Formerly Kit # FFFLR)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative from Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to talk about the fuel cap, the fuel door replacement kit that Land Rover makes available. As most of you know either this little retainer here likes to break, or the little what they call the flapper in between, likes to break, and then you can't close your fuel door, or actually it won't stay shut. So they have a, we have a kit that consists of 5 pieces which will be the 3 parts that replace this segment or this assembly and then the 2 pieces that replace the catch on the door. And you'll be getting these 5 pieces when you order the kit, the kit number is FFFLR, and it's available through our catalog. Very easy to install but I do get some calls on it so we're just going to go through this quickly and show you what needs to be done.So when you're ready to do this repair on your LR3 or even the Sport, which has the same fuel door design, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Atlantic British Ltd. Repair & Maintenance Academy How-To Video: Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the two air filters on a Range Rover Sport 2014. He demonstrates the service using
kit # LR011593K, which includes both air filters. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. hi I'm Gareth the technical support rep at Atlantic British. today we're going to be showing and demonstrating replacement of air filters in late model year 2014 Range Rover Sport. They are original equipment air filters made in Europe. These air filters are also used in LR4, Discovery 5, Full Size Range Rover and of course Range Rover Sport. The model were working on today. First step of removal of the harmonic cover from the top of the engine will take a little bit of a tug it's kind of snugly held down on pulls. Gently pull up and out from the back of the engine, which is for removal. Next step my advice is to remove this small yellow clip here from the mass airflow meter sensor so it makes for easier removal of the plug like so. Next step loosen the hose clamp that holds the pipe intake pipe to the intake manifold. Little wiggle to loosen off and then unscrew all six screws that hold the cover down on top of the air box itself. The intake cover for the air filter can be a little awkward it might need a little bit of a wiggle to remove but once removed easy access to the air filter assembly as you can see. This one appears to be pretty clean and has been replaced recently. This one could be reused with a bit of a clean or a blow-off with compressed air if you have access to it. It's always a good idea to remove any debris from the bottom of the air box assembly just to make sure it doesn't get onto the opposite side of the air filter. Again if you have access to compressed air it's worth blowing out the air box to ensure full cleanliness. Easily new air filter installed just place into the air box assembly making sure fully seated on sides in all corners and then reinstall of the cover and the air induction pipe. As we can see, a little bit of a wiggle pushes it back on. As we can see install is reverse of removal. Very straightforward. Once the covers back on and reattach to the intake plenum re screw tight the hose clamp that holds it to the intake plenum. Firmly. Not over tightened.And then re screw all six retaining screws down that hold the cover back on to the air box assembly. Reinstalling the electrical connector back to the mass air flow meter is pretty straightforward. Push straight on and make sure that the yellow clip is pushed in firmly to lock it into place so it won't fall off. Here on the passenger side removal at the airbox and the air filter is exactly the same as what it is on the driver side. Six screws, the yellow clip, disconnect and pull off, unscrewing of the hose clamp at the air intake plenum pipe, removal of the air filter, replacement and reinstalling. Same process as the opposite side. For service maintenance replacement on the air filters refer to your owners handbook and when you're ready to replace it order online at Roverparts.com or give us a call and talk to one of our sales reps at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, change the pollen / cabin filter on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using our
pollen / cabin filter kit # JMO000010, which includes a new pollen filter, it is recommended that these filters be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # JMO000010 Pollen/Cabin Filter Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on one of the kits we have available for the 2003 to 2005 Range Rover, also referred to as the L322. And this is the pollen and or cabin filter that you use to help purify the air that comes into the interior of the vehicle through the heating and the air conditioning system. Now this filter is the pollen filter element kit. And this is our Part number JMO000010. And you receive 1 pollen cabin filter. And you can tell by the size of the filter that this will actually filter out quite a high volume of air because you do have a rather large system on there. And it looks like a relatively large filter and you would think it would last forever. But depending on what conditions you drive in, it is recommended to be changed over every 15,000 miles. Should you live in a high dust or pollen area, you might want to change it over every 10,000 miles. It all depends on what area you drive in. It's good to check it every 10,000 miles anyway. So, this is the filter that we offer. It's a good filter. And in a minute I'm going to show you how to install it in your Range Rover. Alright, so, the cabin filter slash pollen filter on this vehicle, pretty accessible and easy to do. I still find my favorite tool is the long extension with the 90 degree end on it. And you'll see why in just a minute. That filter is located behind this black panel right here at the top of the cowel. You have 3 press down tabs that you need to move so that you can flip up this little plastic door. And then the filter lies right in between there. So, we'll hit these down and they'll pretty much stay down. You can start lifting up on 1 corner. Push them all down. You'll see it just simply pops up. There's the filter right in front of you. Again with this great little tool just sneak in, turn a little bit. And we're going to pull that filter right out of there. You'll see it's a pretty good sized filter. As I mentioned, should be changed on a pretty regular basis especially if you live in a dusty or high pollen area. So this filter is in pretty good shape. We're going to reinstall it. If you look on the front there's a notation on there, you'll see it says air flow down. In this design the air flow on this vehicle runs in through here, down through the filter and then into the climate control assembly. So, you're going to mount this so it says air flow with the arrow pointing down. Flip up your door. Little wiggle so that we go straight in. And you'll find sometimes as these vehicles get a little older that not all of these plastic tabs pop up. And you can get underneath with the tool a little bit and just give it a little lift to get it back up into position again. And you'll see all the others are in place. And that's pretty much it. That's changing over your pollen and cabin filter on your L322, 2003 to 2005. And when you're ready to change that filter over on your vehicle just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug as he takes you through an ACE Filter and Fluid Service for a Range Rover Sport. Procedure works for vehicle models from 2006 through 2013.
ACE Filter (Item # RVJ100010) and ACE Fluid (Item # STC50519G) are needed for the service. ACE Filter and Fluid Service for Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2013 Equipped with Directional Stability ControlHi I'm Doug, your tech representative for Atlantic British, and we're going to do a video on how to replace your filter for your ACE system on 2006 to 2013 Range Rover Sports. Now we did an earlier video to describe how you can identify whether your Sport is equipped with that or not simply by the additional reservoir on the right hand side of the radiator. In this video we are going to show you how easy it is to change the filter. Now the filter looks like this. The kit comes with a filter and with the O ring and is easily replaced, simply from underneath the vehicle. Now, Land Rover recommends in their maintenance schedule that this filter be replaced every 75 thousand miles, and in the same time you can also drain off a fair amount of fluid which with the fresh fluid and fresh filter, bring your system back up to full operating specs. Now again, the filter does come with a new O ring, which is good, and we're going to show you the simple and easy procedure to change this. Now you're also going to need a couple quarts of ACE fluid which we also stock. This is also your power steering fluid, so it's also good to have a little bit around the house any way just to top of fluids when you need to. And as you can see, this is made specifically for the ACE system. There are substitute fluids that you can use that some people will recommend, power steering fluid and what not, but we recommend that you do not use that. Land Rover says definitely use the ACE fluid for that system and for power steering, it is the most compatible fluid for that system. Now I'm going to show you where the location is for this filter. I'm going to bring this over. With the vehicle raised in the air, and on the passenger side of the vehicle, is the valve block for the ACE system. Now the system is also described in the Sports as Directional Stability Control, so if you hear that referred to they're also talking about this same block. This large nut right here, which is an inch and a half, is removed, and the filter simply slides out and the new one slides back in. You replace the O ring back on the nut, and then replace the cap back in nice and tight and snug. Now you can allow the system to drain off with this plug out. There won't be any pressure in the plug when you take this out with the engine not running and the pumpnot operating there will be no pressure, so you don't have to worry about that. You may, however, get splattered a little bit so you want to stand back. Let the fluid drain. You may need to grab the filter with a pair of pliers. Sometimes they do get a little snug, especially on first time changeover. Reinstall the new one in the same position as you took the old one out in. Reinstall your cap. Drop the vehicle down. Top off the tank. Start the vehicle. Let it run for a minute or so. Shut it down and then set your level in your reservoir. And again, the reservoir for the ACE is on the right hand side of the radiator and does use ACE fluid. And that's pretty much it. This is a fairly simple maintenance item. Again recommended every 75 thousand. A lot of people forget to do that. It is advisable and it will obviously help keep the ACE system operating properly. That's about it, and we'll see you in the next video. Again. if you should decide to do this on your vehicle, we do stock the parts here at Atlantic British, and you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks again.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the transmission service (using
kit # TRANSM200SKA) on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: TRANSM200SKA Performing Transmission Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on the transmission fluid and filter change kit that we have available through our maintenance and repair academy for the 2003 to 2005 ZF 5 speed used in the L322 Full Size Range Rover. Now this is only for 2003 to 2005, which was a 5 speed, and it does require a regular change of fluid. Now we have recommended 75,000 miles change the fluid over. If you put your vehicle through harder service, do a lot of towing, or if you live in an excessively hilly area, where you're constantly either climbing or descending, you might want to do on a more regular basis. Maybe closer to 60,000. But the kit which you'll see here, which is on a sheet that is downloadable and printable from our website online, is the transmission service kit TRANSM200SKA. And you'll see that it comes with 5 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, which is the best fluid to use in these transmissions. A new filter. New pan gasket. Transmission filter retaining screws which are these 2 small screws here. A new oil pan gasket and a drain plug. You'll see you have everything shown here. Now this is your, here's your new O ring for your filter. And the 5 quarts should be more than enough to top the system back off and get it to the proper level, along with a new plug, because you'll see a seal built into the back of the plug. So when you take the original one out, you want to check around the hole, make sure that that seal didn't stick in place, it will interfere with this one. And you always want a new seal when you put the plugs on. So, this is our transmission kit we have available. And in a minute we're going to raise this vehicle and we'll give you some tips on how you can do the filter and fluid changeover on your Full Size Range Rover. So now you've seen the kit. And we're going to give you a basic rundown on how to do a transmission service on your L322. Essentially your pan is very easy access. There's no shields. There's no cross bars. It's right out in the open. What you have is approximately 21 small bolts that hold this pan in all the way around. You're going to need a 25 torx drive to remove them. I usually recommend your best bet is to do it on, especially on these, do these with a 3/8ths drive which will give you a little bit more torque and be able to crack them loose easier. You'll find some of them might be kind of snug and you almost feel like you're going to break it. If it is really tight because you basically have a steel bolt in the aluminum hosing which is the case of the transmission, you take a small punch and put it right on the face of the bolt and wrap it a few times with a hammer and normally that will break them loose enough where you can get them to back out. Now before you even take those bolts out, you have a drain plug right here on the transmission pan. You'll need a number, an 8 millimeter allen or a 5 / 16th. Either one will work. Pull the plug. Drain it out. This way you won't end up with a large mess once you do take the other 21 bolts out to drop the pan. Once the pan is out, you'll simply be looking at the bottom of the filter. And as you saw with the initial picture with the kit, you have 2 small bolts that hold the filter in place. They sit at an angle, if you take the 2 bolts out make sure you have a good size pan because even when you drop that filter some fluid is going to splash out and you really don't need to make a mess on the driveway floor. So, once you have that down, you're going to take the new filter, make sure you put the new O ring on the inlet. Take the 2 new bolts. Set it right back up in place. Snug the bolts in. They don't have to be super tight. Probably generally not more than about 15 foot pounds of torque. You get a new gasket. You clean the old gasket off the pan and off the surface of the transmission. And if it makes it a little bit easier, there's a number of different sprays and adhesives out there, like called a Hi Tack or a Permatex, which you can spray on the surface of the gasket. Let it get tacky and then you can apply it to the pan. This way it will hold it in place as your setting the pan up. Run a couple bolts in to get things started. Run the rest of your bolts in. Snug them up nice and tight. Reinstall your drain plug. And then, right here, just above my finger, is going to be your refill. That's also an 8 millimeter. Now it's going to be really tight the 1st time you go to crack it loose. So I would probably recommend use breaker bar with a little bit of length and a good short socket so you don't snap the socket apart. Then, using a suction gun, or even now they have some small 12 volt motorizes pumps that you can run the fluid in, top this off until you have fluid running out of the hole. Then you're going to start your vehicle. You're going to leave it in park. Let it run until it warms up. And then you are going to take that plug back out and then fill it until you get a basically a drip about once every second. And that's your fluid level. So, it's basically all you need to do a transmission service on your L322. Now this is the 5 speed that was used from 2003 to 2005. And give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, change the pollen / cabin filter on a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using
pollen / cabin filter Part # JKR100280, which includes a new pollen filter, it is recommended that these filters be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: JKR100280 Pollen / Cabin Filter Service On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on another one of our maintenance items for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander which is a pollen filter replacement. Some people refer to these as cabin filters. Now this can be found on our maintenance and repair academy which you'll see on our website. You can also find a downloadable and printable sheet which gives you a lot of the recommended services for your Freelander at the recommended intervals. And you'll find here the pollen / cabin filter. Kit is JKR100280, pollen filter element. It is recommended every 15,000 miles. And that's based on general service. If you live in an area with a high pollen count or a lot of dust, you want to change them on a more often basis. Now again, this is your pollen filter. And again, this is a good maintenance item to keep track of because it does filter out pollens. If you have allergies this definitely can help reduce the amount of allergens in your vehicle. And along with dust and dirt. So, this is what you'll get with the kit. And we're going to show you now where it's located and how to replace it in your 2002 to 2005 Freelander. Okay, so, now we're going to show you how to install the pollen filter. The location is underneath the air box on the passenger side of the vehicle. And we've already taken the floor mat out of the way, and I'll explain why in just a few minutes. Okay, so, using a mirror we'll show you the location of the 4 screws that hold the bottom of the filter in place. It's 4 Phillips screws, 2 in the front, 2 in the back. And then I suggest using a shorty Phillips, or what they call a stubby Phillips screw driver, especially to remove the back righthand corner screw because it is tight up against the floor. And a full size screw driver usually won't fit. So we're going to take the 4 screws out now and then we'll show you how to remove this filter. Okay, so now we have the 4 screws out. We're going to lower the filter. Now the filter is designed to articulate or bend, because they obviously realize the straight cut filter or straight frame filter would not be able to be removed or installed. And you can see what happens. Not only does the filter itself get pretty bad, but the foam designed to help seal the outside edge of it does break down after a while. So, this filter is pretty much done. Very black. Filter basically dirty all the way to the very core, the base of it. But you can see how much dirt these actually filter out. You would normally be breathing this without a filter on this system. So, these cabin filters do come in very handy. So, we're going to discard this filter. Now look at the, observe the way it articulates because if you try to put this in the other direction it's not going to go in. We'll move this filter out of the way. We'll take the new filter. As you notice it does bend in the same direction. We get the one end set up in there. Now be gentle with it. Take your time. It's sort of a tight fit and you want to make sure you get this installed properly. There we go. Now, we'll just put our 4 Phillips screws back on. Now, the reason I took the mat out because you'll find that even just that slight difference in thickness from the front floor mat will make it harder to take the filter out. So I always remove the may first. Now after you get the filter back in place get your screws in. You are going to end up as you can see here with some residue and whatnot from the original foam around the filter. Just brush that up and whatnot. Put your mat back in place and you'll be good to go. So that's essentially replacement of the pollen filter. And as you see they do filter out quite a bit of dirt that would normally enter into the cabin area. So, when you're ready to change the filter over, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Sport, 2014. Using
oil filter kit # LR011279SKA, which includes 2 new oil filters and O-rings, and 2 new drain plugs, it is recommended that an oil change be performed every 15,000 miles. This service applies to 2010-On Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Sport Supercharged. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK150, which includes oil, oil filter, and o-ring, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Be sure to use the correct oil to refill your vehicle. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: LR011279SKA Oil Filter Service On 2014 Range Rover Sport 5.0L V8, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to introduce you to one of our maintenance and repair kits for the 2010 to 2014 Sport. And even though the 2014 is a completely revamped vehicle, it still uses the same 5 liter engine, with some slight modifications but in this regard it's the same from 2010 right up to 2014. So what essentially we have is for the oil change on your vehicle, it's the most, it's probably the one maintenance that you are going to do more often that any and it can be easily done in a driveway. And we're going to show you when we're done how to do that. But in the meantime, the kit itself is available through our website. The part number is LR011279SKA. And what you get is 2 oil filters. 2 drain fill plugs. And 2 new O rings for the cap over the filter. Now, you'll notice it's a cartridge style filter. You're probably going to need to get yourself a different oil wrench than what you had on previous vehicles to take the cap off. But we give you enough for 2 oil changes, mostly because it is a maintenance that you are going to do often. And it's good to have them around when you're ready for the next time around. And you'll save yourself a little bit on shipping too by having 2 instead of 1. Now this is a maintenance that the factory recommends every 15,000 miles because you're using a fully synthetic. Depending on the use of the vehicle, if you tow, live in hilly areas, excessively hot areas, you do want to do the oil changes more often. The oil does break down. So, again, you get 2 filters, plugs, O rings. Enough for 2 oil changes. As I said you're going to do this maintenance on a pretty regular basis. And now we'll put the vehicle in the air and show you how to change the oil.So, now we're going to top it off with oil. This particular engine you want to use either a 5W20 or actually there is a 0W20 which is specifically formulated for Jaguar and Land Rover by Castrol. Generally found dealer only. But you definitely want to use the oil that is specified for this particular engine. These newer engines are very tight tolerance. New materials. You want to make sure you use the right oil when you top it off. The whole idea of why we're doing this is for the longevity of the engines and to maintain performance. Definitely want to use the right oil. So, you don't need to watch me fill it with oil. So I'm going to tell you call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the process involved in replacing the transmission filter for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
money-saving kit # TRANSM100SKA, which comes with 6 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, transmission filter with gasket and pan, filter plug,and an automatic transmission valve sleeve, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Please Note: While part number LR007474, is used on Range Rover Full Size models, the process for this service differs from LR3 to Range Rover Full Size. Please note that there are parts mentioned in the video not included in the kit that you may want to replace for the service, those part #s are exhaust gasket #WCM100460L and # TYP500050 pan bolts (21 required). Kit # TRANSM100SKA: Performing Transmission Service On LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to touch base on the transmission service and filter kit in our repair and maintenance academy program. And on that program you can go on our website and you can download this sheet which will also give you all the other recommended services, but in this case we're looking at the transmission filter service kit, part number TRANSM100SKA. This is a service that we recommend every 90,000 miles. Now if you tow or if you live in an area with a lot of hills or a lot of climbing then I would suggest you do this on a more often basis. But for normal driving conditions every 90,000 is the recommended. And what you are going to get with the kit is a new pan assembly with the gasket, because on these ZF transmission the pan is integral with the filter, so to change the filter you need to change the whole pan. Comes with a new gaskets, comes with new magnets to maintain and hold any material that might be floating around in there. You have a new fill plug which we will show you further on how to do the service on this and where your fill plug is located. And 6 quarts of recommended fluid for the ZF. Do not mix Dexron or any other transmission fluid with these transmissions. They require a specific transmission fluid, you really need to use that so you don't give yourself problems down the line. So you're going to be using anywhere from 5 to 6 quarts, so we give you 6 quarts for your refill. And in a minute what we'll do is show the basics on how to do your transmission service.And that basically is the full procedure for refilling. Cap it off once it reaches the drip. Take it for a ride. Make sure it is shifting properly. Make sure any air has been worked out of the system. And you should be good to go. So when you're ready to do your transmission service, or have it done, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
oil change kit # LR007160SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK100, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Kit #: LR007160SKA Performing Oil Change Service on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to do is touch base on the oil filter kit that we have available on the LR3s. This kits available through out repair and maintenance academy which you can go online, go to our website. You can print and download the whole schedule that we have available. You'll see first on the list for the oil change is LR007160SKA. This service is recommended every 7,500 miles, and it is probably the most common service that you're going to do on your vehicle. And you're going to do it on a pretty regular basis. So what we do is include 2 filters so that when you're ready for the next oil change your not constantly, you save yourself some money on the shipping. You'll have the part all ready there for when you're ready for your next oil change. And believe me, they sneak up on you fast. So what you're going to get is 2 oil filters that meet Land Rover specifications for the LR3. This is for the 4.0 V8. And then you'll also receive 2 new drain plugs which have the gasket, the O ring built into them. So you'll end up with a good seal on the pan. It's always good to replace the plugs. And then what we're going to do now is get this up in the air and we're going to show you the location of your filter, how to access it and location of your drain plug. Top it off. Get your level set and you're done. So when you're ready to do your oil change, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll set you up with our kit. And you can reach us at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, change the pollen / cabin filters for a 1995-2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS or Bosch Engine. Using
pollen / cabin filter kit # BTR8037SKA, which includes two pollen / cabin filters, it is recommended that these filters be replaced every 15,000 miles. Part #: BTR8037SKA Replacing the Pollen / Cabin Filter on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications, 1999-2002, 8-Cylinder BOSCH Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and as part of our repair and maintenance academy I want to show you the pollen filter kit that we have for P38 Range Rovers manufactured between 1995 and 2002. Now I know some items that we have separate the GEMS engine P38 from the BOSCH engine, but this particular kit will fit both. It goes through the entire range for that model. Now you will get 2 filter kits, boxed, because this particular vehicle uses a pollen filter for both right and left hand side on the vehicle. Now the kit number, which we'll show you on the sheet that you can download, BTR8037SKA, and listed as pollen and cabin filter. Now this is a service that's recommended every 15,000 miles. If you live in a rather dusty area then I would suggest you want to check them, probably change them earlier than that, maybe every 10,000 miles. They're very easy to install, and we're going to show you how to put them in in just a minute. OK. So this is a relatively easy repair. This isn't going to take you very long. Just a few minutes, really. Now essentially on both sides of your upper cal you have these oval black covers. And this is what your pollen filter mount is inside of, simply held in with 2 Phillips head screws. And again, changing these pollen filters is a very good idea. It actually allows, this will filter your intake air for your heater and air conditioning, give you cleaner air to breathe inside. Simply just remove the 2 Phillips screws. Place them in a spot where they're not going to roll away or disappear. You see basically the cover pops right off. And you'll even see on top of the filter we actually have leaves and debris that would have been drawn down into your intake system had that filter not been there. Now, when you pull it out, just notice the way it's mounted in the vehicle. You have these black tabs. And these are in the upper position, facing up. And you can see how much these filters stop the amount of garbage that can drop down inside your AC and heating air conditioning system. These are a really good idea to change on a regular basis. Take any debris that's laying up inside, what you can fish out. If you have access to a shop vacuum, that does a really nice job. Just simply vacuum the stuff out of here. Then you have less of a chance of anything getting caught down inside the AC system. So now you see we have a nice clean opening on that. And your simply going to take the new filter and you'll need to wiggle a little bit, work it down inside because it has to center up on its guides. Two hands. And just wiggle back and forth. Set that down in place. Put your cover back over. Line up your screw holes. And reinstall your 2 Phillips screws. They don't have to be super tight. Just bring it in until you feel it come to a stop. And then snug it in. And then same with the other. Now the operation for the other side will be exactly the same. So we don't need to do that again. But that will show you how to change over the pollen filter. And again, you don't want this being drawn into your AC system. So when you're ready to change over your pollen filter you can give a call at 1-800-533-2210 and any of our knowledgeable salesmen will be happy to help you.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, change the pollen / cabin filter on a Range Rover Sport 2014. Using our
Pollen / Cabin Filter Part # LR036369, it is recommended that these filters be replaced at least one a year. Part #: LR036369 Pollen/Cabin Filter Service On 2014 Range Rover Sport, 5.0L, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specification. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about cabin filters. Specifically now we have the cabin filter for the new L494 Range Rover Sports. This is the new body that started in 2014. And the installation is similar to the earlier Sports but there are some differences you need to know before you put one in. And you should change these on a pretty regular basis. At least once a year. Just because of the debris and whatnot that they keep from getting into the climate control. It keeps the air fresher. It gets rid of that moldy smell. There's a lot of reasons why you should replace this on a regular basis. So we're going to show you how. Alright. Before we begin and actually if you look in the factory manual it does tell you that before you can replace the pollen filter on this you need to have the ignition on. Now the vehicle not running, but just the ignition on and the air conditioning climate control on AC manual and recirculated. So before we even start we're just going to key, make sure all the lights are on on the dash. That's going to indicate that your key is on. Ac control being right here. We want to make sure we have AC on. We're going to turn off max AC. And turn the fan off. OK. Key on. Fan off. Now the next step is, and if you look right here, you have an arm that runs up. This has a tab on the end of it that is what locks the glove box door in place. We're going to push down on there and then on its equivalent on the other end. And we have to push down. Now this one is on the inside. It's a little tight space so you really need to get your finger in there, push hard to get these to release. So just come up just a little bit. Push down. And then that lowers the glove box. Obviously take everything out of the glove box before you do that. And so what that's going to do is open up that area so that we can change the filter. Alright so by following the instructions what that does is it lowers this chamber down and there is access to your filter. So we're going to pull that up and right out. Now you'll notice on the one we pulled out of there where the air flow direction is. Because on the earlier Sports it was from the top down. On this particular design it is from the bottom up. So we want to make sure arrow pointing up. So we'll take the dirty filter out. There's our nice new filter. We're going to check our air flow. This shows down. We want to make sure it's up. And then slide that back into the chamber we just took the other one out of. Now we have these little retainer tabs right here in the middle so we have to push down. We want to get underneath that because that holds that filter in place. And that's essentially it. So what we're going to do at this point now, all you need to do for the glove box is to flip it up, those tabs will lock back into place. Put all your gear back in the glove box. And turn your ignition key off. But that's pretty much it. A very simple replacement. Only takes a few minutes. And it's really good maintenance to change on a regular basis. Alright, so when you're ready to change over the pollen filter on your new Range Rover Sport, you can just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can click on this link and order online. And if you like our how-to videos and would like to know moreabout them, or be able to view them, you can actually subscribe to our YouTube channel and view all our different videos that we've done for any of the Land Rover vehicles. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Here is the step-by-step process in the removal and installation of the transmission filter conversion kit on a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
kit # ATFCK, this is an easy change filter conversion kit for all Rovers using ZF 6HP Automatic Transmission. This includes the LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover L322 models. Installing the original factory filter change kit is a very lengthy process. The original sump and filter are normally one piece and fitting involves jacking the engine up and unbolting the mounts, plus, the removal of the exhaust. This new kit has a two-part filter and pan design, which makes installation much easier. Doug will also address replacement of the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve part number TZV500010G which has a tendency to leak. It is recommended that this sleeve be replaced while you have the pan down. This service is recommended to be performed every 50,000 to 70,000 miles to ensure optimum performance. Kit #: ATFCK Install the Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion Kit on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a new and innovative product, definitely a labor saving item. This is a transmission kit for the Sports and the LR3s with the 4.4 V8. And what they've done is they've gotten away from the 1 piece pan and filter set up which up to this point, when you went to change over the filter in your transmission you had to remove one of the catalytic converters, the crossmember. You had to support the transfer case. And in some cases we had to take one bolt out of the right side motor mount and we had to jack the engine up to get that out of there. So because of input from alot of Land Rover owners, what they've done is come up with a kit so we have a separate filter and pan so that we can actually install this without taking all this extra out of the vehicle. And what it essentially does is, and those of you who aren't familiar with the original design you have a plastic pan similar to this with a filter in it. The filter is part of the pan with this stem. This stem is what the killer is because you have a cross member. It's only about an inch underneath this pan. So to get these out, you've got to be able to jack the whole drive line up at one point to clear this piece out of here. But now you can just drop the original pan. Cut the old tube off with a hacksaw. Pull that out once we get the pan out of the way. You take the new filter. You pop the filter up in place. And then the pan slides in. And with the kit you get the new filter. The new O ring. New set of bolts. And a metal pan instead of plastic. It's overall going to be a better situation. It also makes it alot easier for do it yourselfers, as opposed to having to bring it to a shop because of all the extra assembly and disassembly. This has been a long time coming. This is a great product. What I'm going to do then is we're going to show you initially how to install it and how we're going to drain it and how we're going to change this over without having to take all that extra pieces out of the vehicle.There we are. So we've reached the point where we've filled this up. We've got 1 drip per second. We capped, put the plug back in. Be very careful because that catalytic converter is going to be very hot. You may want to invest in a set of what they call, actually they are available, kevlar gloves. Just something to keep you from burning your hand on that catalytic converter. Tighten the plug down. Next step is obviously let it run. Let it sit for a minute. You want to check for any leaks around the gasket. Once you're confident that you have no leaks then basically we're done. So at this point now we're going to let it cool down just a little bit. And then we can reinstall the bracket. That supports the heat shield. Put the heat shield back on. And reinstall the front dash plates. So all that we did in the beginning you're just going to reinstall just the way you took it off. Very easy. So, when you're ready to do the transmission service on your LR3 or your Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, or you can click on this link or if you wish to subscribe to our YouTube channel you can click on this link and that will take you to that. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service (
using kit # TRANSM300SKA) on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and pan, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in the service kit, along with a replacement automatic transmission valve sleeve, which is prone to leaking. This service should be performed every 60,000 miles. Please Note: While this Transmission Service Kit (TRANSM300SKA) is the same for Range Rover Sport models, the process for this service differs from Range Rover Full SIze. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: TRANSM300SKA Performing Transmission Service On Range Rover Full Size Supercharged 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on another one of our maintenance kits that we have available. This one in particular is for a 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover. Known as the L322. And this will apply to both the Supercharged 4.2 and the 4.4 naturally aspirated. And this is the transmission service kit that we have available. And this is all part of our maintenance and repair academy that you can find on our website. Not only that, but you can copy and download our sheet that gives you all the maintenance items that we recommend for that vehicle. Now, on the transmission kit, which is listed down here in the bottom left corner, is TRANSM300SKA. It's recommended every 60,000 miles or every 10 years. Just like any other petroleum based fluid, transmission fluid will break down over a period of time. So it's definitely a good idea to change them over on a regular basis. And what you'll get with the kit is the ZF Lifeguard transmission. This is the fluid, this is the recommended fluid for this vehicle. You really dont want to use many substitutes. The ZFs are very particular about what type of fluid they use and how well they perform. You'll also get a new pan. And the reason for that is because the pan incorporates the filter. You'll see the filter built right into the base of the pan. Your pick up tube. And it will also give you the 2 new magnets that you'll find in the original when you drop it down. Now these magnets are here to pick up any composite or any wear material that you're going to get from the transmission just simply due to normal wear. And it's a good idea not to have it floating through the system. The magnets will pick that up and hold that until you're ready to do your changeover. Now, this pan comes in a large bag in the box. And you'll find in the bag the new O ring for the pick up tube. Now I just want to make sure I make note on that because you may pull this out initially. This is kind of small, you don't really see it right off that bat. So make sure you look in your bag to get your O ring. So, that's essentially the kit that you're going to get. Definitely a highly recommended maintenance item to do on your vehicle. Not that hard to do. Matter of fact what we're going to do now is we have a 2008 Supercharged Range Rover right here and we're going to run through the process of how to change over the transmission fluid and filter in your vehicle.Once you've reached that point, put your plug back in, make sure it's fully seated. Wipe off any excess that you got on the exhaust or on the frame. You don't need any dripping in the driveway. And then you're done. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your L322 Full Size, this is 2006 to 2009. And the same procedure applies to whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug present an overview of what is under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size L322, 2006 - 2009, with a 4.2 Supercharged engine. He'll also show you the locations of most of your fluid fill points and other items of interest. This is the same as the 4.4 naturally-aspirated engine. Doug shows you how to reposition the hood in the full upright position in order to gain better access to the systems under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Under Hood Tour Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationAlright, so what we have here is a 2006 Full Size Range Rover. The L322. This has got the 4.2 Supercharged engine. The locations of most of your fluids and your items of interest under the hood are going to be basically the same whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated. So essentially what we're going to do is start in the back passenger corner. You have the battery box. And you'll find the battery is tucked in there pretty good. And these are a good size battery. And we'll show you a little trick in a little while on how you can reposition the hood so you can have easier access to items in the back. Next is going to be your cool box. In here is going to be most of your major modules. Your PCM, transmission control module, transfer case module. And this actually has a cooling fan similar to what you have on your PC to keep your box down at a certain temperature. This is actually in a way climate controlled to keep the moisture level and condensation and all that down from inside the box. Then you have your coolant overflow reservoir with the bleeder cap. This is where you're going to watch your coolant levels. On the side, on this side where I am looking down there is actually a level stripe on the tank so that you can watch and maintain your coolant level. This is just a crossover tube for your air conditioning. This is your power steering fluid. And you essentially have the same thing. You have a level marker towards the front, but with a flashlight you can actually get a better idea. Always check this with a flashlight and check your level. And it also gives you a better idea on the condition of your fluid. Should the fluid turn a dark color, a dark black or whatever, this can be flushed and refreshed with fresh fluid. And you should do it. Just like any petroleum based fluid it should be done on a regular basis. Your washer fluid with the vent. Your air filter box. Your oil level dip stick. Now you'll notice an O ring on here. These systems have a negative pressure system inside the crank case to keep the crank case ventilated. So it's actually important on these O rings on both the filler cap and the dip stick stay maintained. This is your ABS control module, both the hydraulic and electronic. Your lines. You'll see these 2 large caps on both sides which are just simply covers on for the top of your air suspension struts. And then in the rear compartment is going to be your brake master cylinder, which also has a level marker on it. So these are all your points that you'll want to check on a regular basis. You always want to check your fluids so in case you pick up a leak or something you have an idea of what youre losing. Now, what we'll do is we'll show you how to access and remove this engine cover. You'll notice that the back quarter of it disappears underneath this panel, and so do the 2 rear screws that hold it down. This upper plenum, which is part of the heating system and also contains the pollen filter, which on another video we'll show you how to replace. You can remove this with just simply removing 2 bolts and this upper weather strip. And we're going to show you how. This simply pulls up and removes right off of a pinch well.Now we just bring this straight up. And you'll see this thin tab right here. I'll swing it out of the way so you get a better view of that. Just a slight tab with a hole in it. You're just going to swing that down. The hole lines up with this pin that's built into the hinge. And then just let it relax. Now the hood is almost in a full straight up vertical. Your cover and your plenum is out of the way. And this gives you very easy access to the top of the engine. So, that's basically our tour. We're going to show you in other videos how to change the different filters and other maintenance items on this. So, feel free to look through the other videos for any ideas or any information you need to work on your Full Size Range Rover.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, discuss the recommended oil change frequency on late model Land Rovers or Range Rovers. Land Rover’s recommended interval of 12K-15K oil changes on late model Rovers with synthetic engine oil is an often-discussed topic in the forum community. Many are saying, and We agree, that the frequency of changes should be half that (every 7,500 miles) or you risk causing long-term wear and damage to the engine. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Hi I'm Gareth, the tech support rep here at Atlantic British. Today in this video we're going to discuss oil change frequencies for Land Rover Range Rover models from 2003 to present day, whether it be Range Rover Sport, LR3 or LR4. A lot of people have been reading online about Land Rovers and talking about Rover oil change frequencies. People are saying that it's a long time between 12,000 and 16,000 miles to get there oil changes done. We agree with that. It's an awful long time to wait for an oil change. The extended oil change service frequencies on Range Rovers and Land Rovers these days are a little bit too extended. We feel they can unfortunately cause, you know, detrimental wear to engine components for things like timing chains, timing chain guides, etc, which can also lead to more severe failures possibly because of those extended service life. We feel like good oil change every sort of 7,500 miles is probably the best course of action and keep the engine and other components running to the best service capabilities. So when you're ready to do your oil change we have a number of kits for all the model Range Rovers which include enough oil to do the oil change, the relevant oil filter, O ring if needed, a new drain plug, and of course an oil change service reminder that sticks to the windshield. This kit is for the 5.0 v8 engine which is in the LR4 Full-Size Range Rover and Range Rover Sport. And when you're ready to order it please visit us online at Roverparts.com or there's a link you can go to on the screen. Or you can always call one of our friendly sales reps and talk to them about what model vehicle you have and what oil service kit you're going to need. The phone number is 800-533-2210.
Is the exterior moulding or cowl that sits just under the windshield of your D2 cracking and distorting? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates the removal and replacement of the Center Air Intake Moulding (
part # JAK000010PMAG) on our Discovery Series II. This part is also referred to as the Windshield Cowl or Windshield Finisher. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #: JAK000010PMAG Center Air Intake Moulding Replacement On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative hear at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to replace the lower intake cowl for the windshield on your Discovery 2. This is part number JAK000010PMAG. Yeah, it's a bit of a long number. But this is the replacement for the bottom cowl. And it actually includes the filter, which this is actually your cabin filter, in essence. This is what filters your air before it goes into your climate control system. You'll also notice you got four large holes where as you're only going to have 2 openings for the windshield wipers. And that's because this is actually designed after the original equipment to be able to be used on both the right hand or left drive vehicle. And then there are plugs that we're going to take out of the old one that will be installed on this so that it looks just like the original design. Now one thing I do want to mention. Well first off, these are also, there are several different names for these. Some call them a windshield cowl, windshield finisher. We refer to it on our website as a center air intake moulding. So in case you don't remember the number, you haven't written it down, you can use that to look it up on the website. Now as a note, just quickly before we begin installation, when these things come through, sometimes from the delivery, this seal can be pulled back a little bit and there's a little groove in the seal and it sits over a lip right on the edge of the cowl. This is what seats against the windshield. So you just want to check to make sure that this is on and fully seated all the way down its length. It will make a big difference on how it looks when you put it all together. Okay, so what we're going to do now is we're going to show you the installation process. It's not that bad to do. Just need a few tools to do it. And let's get started. First thing we're going to do is we're going to pop the hood on this. The way these are designed, this cowl is very tough to get out without moving the hood out of the way. And it's not all that bad to do this. It's not a lot of un-bolting. What you're going to do is set your hood up. And all you've got is 4 bolts that hold the hood to the hinges. 2 on each side. We're going to take these bolts out and then actually lower the hood and slide it forward, only about 3 or 4 inches. That's all we need. And that will give us enough room for the cowl and still prevent you from having to take the hood all the way off the vehicle.They will spin fairly easy. Just get them snug. Double check and verify. Just to make sure you're still lined up. And once you get them snug, and the hoods not going anywhere, tighten them up from that point. And again, they don't have to be real tight. Bring them in until you feel the bolt seat and then about a quarter of a turn. And we're there. We're just going to do the same to the other side. Once we've done that we know that the hood is going to close exactly like it did before we took it apart. So now you see our hood is on. Our lines are straight. She's on exactly the way it was. Our cowl is in place. Our wipers are there. You want to double check just to make sure the wipers are fully operational. And they park where they're supposed to. And then we're good. Your cowl is in. The other thing I'll mention too is in the process of doing that, if you see you've got problems with these corner finishers, or they look like they could use replacing, this would be a good time to do that. We do offer these also on our website. And we have a video on how to install these as well. So, that would set you up for all the way around the windshield. So, when you're ready to replace your lower intake moulding, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the transmission service (using
service kit # TRANSM800SKA) on a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. In this video, Doug will show you how to access drain and fill points, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service should be performed every 60,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: TRANSM800SKA Performing Transmission Service On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specification Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on one of our maintenance kits that we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander, part of our maintenance and repair academy that you'll find on our website. And on our website you can also download and print this sheet which gives you all the other maintenance functions for your vehicle. In this case we're going to talk about the transmission service kit. Now, in the case of the Freelander, there is no filter or replaceable filter in that transmission. And we're just simply going to do a drain and fill, which can still do wonders for these systems. Just like any petroleum based fluid, transmission fluid can break down. It's designed to also hold any contaminants and whatnot that get into the system. You will have condensation, you'll have some dust and a little bit of debris from wear parts from the transmission usage. So you want to change this on a regular basis. Now, in this case, it's recommended every 60,000 miles. It's a very good idea to do. And it's very easy to do. And what you'll be getting with the kit is enough transmission fluid to refill the system. Specifications calls for 4 liters. We're going to give you 5 bottles because these bottles are based on quarts. And a quart is .946 liters so you will come up, if we just give you 4 bottles, you'll come up a little short. So we give you 5 so you get the recommended amount. You're also going to get a new drain plug and a new gasket. This also has the magnet built into it. And a new fill plug up top. So, very easy to do. Very easy to access. And what we're going to do now is we're going to go through this vehicle and we're to show you the basics and some tips on how to change your transmission fluid. All right, so, we have a Freelander up in the air. As you can see, the drain plug has easy access. It's a 15/16th plug. And what I would suggest is use a half inch ratchet on it which will give you a little bit more leverage. It will come out easier. Don't have to worry about saving the plug - you get a new one with the kit. And it's just a matter of drain and refill. There is no filter to change on these. As you can see there's no belly pan like the majority of your other transmissions. And the front - back pans are rather difficult to change, which you really dont need to do any way. So essentially this is just a drain and refill. So you're going to completely drain the transmission. Put your plug back in. And the next step is we lower it down and we show you how to do the refill. All right, so, now that we've drained this completely we're going to access our fill plug, which is down below these hoses, you'll see a little black plug right next to your wiring harness. Grab underneath and pull. You'll see that's what it looks like. And you've seen one similar. You'll be getting a new one with the kit. A little more softer and flexible than this one. And, you're going to notice that the hole is relatively small. You may need to either modify your funnel. Now you're going to find that probably at about the 2 and a half to 3 quart it will seem like the transmissions is full. Hop in the vehicle. Start it up. Put your plug on first. And then go from drive to reverse. Back up to drive. Put it back in park. Let it run for a minute. What that will do is circulate some of the new fluid back into the system. Shut it down. Put in the remainder. Specifications call for 4 liters after a drain. So 4 liters on a refill. The system actually holds about 8 and a half. But, when draining it you don't get everything out of the torque converter. So, that's basically all it takes to do a transmission service on your Freelander. Relatively easy. Can be done out in the driveway. Fairly inexpensive. No nuts and bolts to deal with because there's no filter. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your Freelander, just contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
As a Land Rover owner, are you confused over terms like "ACE", "DSC" or "Vehicle Dynamic Suspension"? In many ways, these terms all refer to the same basic system, even though Land Rover has decided to change the terminology by vehicle model and year. Listen to our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug, as he explains the various terms and what they mean in relation to Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009 and Range Rover Sport, 2010 - 2013.
Is There A Difference Between The Directional Stability Control (DSC) System, The ACE System or The Dynamic Response System?Hi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. I want to do a short video simply explaining what is ACE. There's been some confusion in the past, and we've had some customers call and wanted to know so we've actually done some previous videos on how to identify whether your vehicle has ACE and exactly what is the system. Now if you have a Discovery 2 and it has ACE, which we did show in the video how to identify that. Essentially all they used was a 2 way hydraulic ram on a split sway bar to help control the vehicle on cornering, to help force a leveling. Uses ACE fluid. Uses a valve block on the passenger side underneath the vehicle. And if you actually look on a previous video we've actually shown you how to do some basic maintenance on that system by replacing the filter and the fluid. Now later on they came out with a similar system in the Range Rover Sports. And that was essentially called Active Stabilization System, or we've even seen it described as Directional Stability Control and even some analyzers have called it Active Roll Control. Essentially they are all the same thing. And what they did was they got away from the 2 way split ram and got into an integral hydraulic motor built into the sway bars, but essentially control the same way. And that's all that ACE is. It's hydraulically controlled sway bars that help level your vehicle on cornering. Again the procedure for the maintenance on the Sport will be the same as the Discovery which is simply filter replacement and some fluid. I hope that clarifies what ACE is. If you have any further questions you can contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to point you in the right direction on what you need to do the maintenance on your ACE system. Just a footnote we wanted to put in. You may have also heard the term Vehicle Dynamic Suspension. Doesn't apply to the Land Rover Sport. It is another system used in the full size Land Rover and it utilizes the air suspension to help reduce body roll. There is no hydraulic roll bar as there is in the Sport and D2. So we just wanted to make sure we had that clear, that you may have heard that term, but it does not apply to the Sport, nor does it apply to the D2. That should just about wrap that up. Wait a minute, wasn't this a Defender?
Doug gives an overview look of the front engine cover on a 4.0 / 4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid-1999 to 2004 with Bosch Systems. Common failures / issues and how to identify and resolve.
An Overview Look at the Front Engine Cover on 4.0/4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid - 1999 to 2004 with Bosch SystemsCommon Failures / Issues and How to Identify and ResolveHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video I think what we're going to do is take an overview look of the front engine cover on 4.0 and 4.6 Land Rover engines. Used primarily from mid 1999 - 2004 and this engine is the type with the Bosch system. There's several things that you can look for on front covers. They actually hold a very important part in regards to engine design and control. And so we're going to touch base on a few things just to give you an idea of what you are dealing with. Now this is a nice fresh front cover, right out of an engine. All cleaned up. Now the first thing you'll notice in the front of course, is your mount for your water pump. You have a gasket between the water pump and the front cover and you can at different points have these gaskets fail where you can develop a coolant leak. This opening right here is for your cam position sensor. Which, when you do some work on the front of the motor you will see two wires actually, enter at this point. One will be to the cam sensor and the other sensor you have is your oil pressure sensor. Now, this has the newer design on it, with the rectangular opening for the connector instead of the single spade. If you are converting from an earlier Bosch engine with the single spade sensor, and of course when you order a new one you will get this design. There is also a jumper wire you will need to get to attach the two together. It's just a small jumper. Down below that is your oil filter housing. Your oil filter would screw on to the bottom here. And these two white plugs would be your connections for your oil cooler if your vehicle is equipped with an engine oil cooler. Some do, some don't. If you don't, you'll find two brass plugs in there that look similar to this one. If you do, of course they would be open and at the end of those two lines are two small O rings where you can also develop oil leaks so it is a good area to look into. Now if you come around to the back you get into the guts of the front cover. Here lies a gasket all the way around. And they are known to create failure on the driver side top corner, the gasket likes to pop out. You can see you have a relatively thin area for it to seal. And you will get some times and I've run into this before on diagnosing some of these, the coolant leak that you can't find because it is essentially in a very hidden area and it starts off as a very slow leak. So this would be an area to look at if you feel you are losing coolant, you know you have a leak but you just can't find it, this is a good place to look. Then you have your oil pump. The oil pump is mounted internally in the cover, and the cover itself is actually the outer machined area of the oil pump. In the oil pump you have your central drive gear. This is driven by the crankshaft, and then it turns this rotor, which in turn, turns this rotor, and they're designed to run in an eccentric design so as the gearing crushes together it creates pressure, and at the very bottom, built into this you will see the oil pressure bypass valve, that little spring down inside the housing and that is the exiting point of your oil, from that point to your filter and into the rest of your engine. So that pretty much covers the front cover. Now, something just a quick mention: on the Bosch design, with the oil pump, this is your connection for your oil pick up tube. Which means to remove this front cover you also need to remove the oil pan. So if you should be replacing this gasket and you're ordering your parts be sure to get an oil pan gasket. You're going to need it because you're going to remove the oil pan to access it. Other than that, this is pretty much a basic design. This is the same front cover you'll see on all the 4.0 and 4.6 with a Bosch design. Clear cut, aluminum, light weight and now that you have an idea of what problems may occur on this, you know where to look. Again, I'm Doug, tech support representative for Atlantic British. Any of the parts we stock for this you can order through any of our knowledgeable salesmen, and you can reach us at 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part One (Extra)
Now that we have added a raised suspension for off-road use, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the standard brake hose on our project D2. Doug then upgrades with and installs our exclusive performance braided stainless steel brake hose (
Part # ABP218L) for Discovery Series II with raised suspension. Doug will also demonstrate how to bleed the brake system using the Hawkeye Diagnostic Tool "Power Bleed" Function. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on. Part One (Extra):Installing Performance Stainless Steel Brake Hose (For Raised Suspension) Part # ABP218LHi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And what we're going to do is our next step in Project D2 is add on our extended steel braided brake hoses. The reason being for that is if you're actually going to take your D2 out on the deep woods and what you have to avoid now that you have a lift kit in there, is if the suspension should go to full extension, you have to make sure that the brake hoses are long enough to be able to take that. The one thing you don't need is a broken brake hose out in the woods. So what we do is we actually manufacture steel braided lines. You'll actually see the hose itself actually looks considerably smaller than the originals, which are nothing more than just the rubbers. You have heftier fittings on the end, and they're actually a couple inches longer than the original design so that you can avoid over-stretching the hoses should you go to full extension. Now the other advantage to braided steel hoses is that they're definitely more resistant to abrasion and should you be rubbing them up against rocks and sticks and whatnot that get up under the wheel wells as you're going through the woods, there's less of a chance of them getting cut or being sliced. So what we're going to do is I'm going to show you how to install them. This kit is ABP218L. This is both the front and rear hoses. And the 2 little joiner hoses to the rear brakes that are behind the rear well and now we're going to show you how to install them.Close the bleeder down. Now this wheel is done. Then we just continue on and we do the other 3. And we'll be all set. Again remember after say every other wheel, make sure you check your fluid level. You don't want to run the master cylinder dry. And you're going to use the good clean DOT 4 fluid. So, now you've seen how to properly bleed the brakes. We're all done. And you're going to find the master cylinder is down a little bit. We're going to fill it to just below the max line. On the side of the reservoir right here you have a max with a line, and down below minimum with a line. We're going to fill this to just below the max because what's going to happen is after you put your filter back in, and let that run into, that's going to displace some fluid. Then your cap with your sending unit is also going to displace some. So by the time you're done, it's going to bring that level right up to the max line. Now again what I would recommend at this point. Every thing has bled out, which means no air, no loss of pressure. You're going to have somebody basically start the vehicle, step on the brake pedal and hold it. Do a final inspection. Make sure you have no leaks coming out of your hose connections, either at the calipers or on the lines. You want to make sure all that's good and tight. Any excess fluid you want to wash off. The brake fluid over a period of time will affect paint. So you want to rinse it off. Warm water is a great way to rinse it off. Get your wheels back on. And road test your vehicle. So you've seen how easy it is to do. There's a little time involved with it but well worth it on the end. So when you're ready to upgrade the brake hoses in your Discovery, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to access and replace the power steering pump on a 1999 - 2004 Discovery Series II. The
power steering pump is a common replacement item, and it is recommended that the hoses related to this installation be replaced too. Kit # 9397D2 includes the pump to box, reservoir to pump, and low pressure hoses. Doug will also touch base on the power steering reservoir discussing issues that develop over time with this part. You will also need the ACE and power steering fluid to complete this service. Kit # QVB500080OE Installing Power Steering Pump & Hoses and Fluid on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on another very common repair, mostly on the Discovery 2s, Discovery 1s, P38s, any of the 4.0 or 4.6 engines, is power steering pump. You'll find that over a period of time there's several reasons why these pumps can fail. You may develop a bad power steering leak which is a wearout of the seal. Could be bearing failure, or an actual internal failure of the impeller or the drive unit internally. All right, so this is the pump that's going to be used on your vehicle. And essentially what you have here is most of your hydraulic system which is the pump, this is the gravity feed line that would run from the reservoir down to the pump, from the pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the power steering box, and then from the box back up to the reservoir. Now what happens is these can fail internally, you could have a leaky seal, or you can have a bearing failure. If it's an internal or a bearing failure I would generally recommend not only do you replace the hoses, you're going to take a good look at them when you take the system apart, but inside the reservoir, and I don't know how well you're going to see it on the video, but straight down inside you actually have a filter built into these reservoirs. If you have a pump failure or a hose failure, and these hoses can wear internally, they're just strictly rubber hoses. That material will build up on that filter. And that's basically there to keep those contaminants from going through the system. Eventually that filter can get plugged up to the point where you won't get sufficient flow from the reservoir down to the pump and create a whining, or an erratic steering. So if you've got 100,000 miles on it and you're replacing the pump due to a failure, or you've had a hose collapse internally, you want to get that reservoir as well. Make sure you have a good clean filter in there and it will help the system operate. And also importantly is the fluid that's used in the system. This is fluid supplied and made by Land Rover called Active Corner Enhancement Power Steering Fluid, or short ACE Fluid. And what will happen is if you use regular power steering fluid or Dexron 3 in these pumps, over a period of time it will cause internal damage. They're not made to be used with that fluid. This is the fluid that is specially formulated for the system, that can make a world of difference on how long it last you after you do a replacement. So what we're going to do now is going to show you how access and replace the pump, how to access the hoses and then do some visual inspections to give you an idea if you should be replacing other components as well. You'll see some bubbling in the top fluid, because we know we definitely pushed some air through there. Now we're just going to let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes, let that air bleed out of the system, And then you can cap it off. And you should be ready to go. What I suggest is take it for a test drive. When you get home shut it off. Let it sit for a few minutes. And then double check your height. You may use a little bit more fluid. You may need to add just a little bit to get it to the full line. As of that, you've replaced your power steering pump, saved yourself a lot of money and ready to go for another 100,000 miles. So, when you're ready to change over your power steering pump or any of your hoses, just call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Tech, remove and replace the engine in our 2000 Discovery Series II with one of our exclusive remanufactured engines. Doug goes in-depth in this engine installation, which in real-time should clock in as a 10 hour service. We recorded the process starting in January 2017 and finishing in November 2017, working on it when time allowed. It actually sat for months, as we had other things on our schedule to work on.
Engine Item # 9257DRK / 9257BRK Replace &Install Short Block Engine Demonstrated on 2000 Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on what unfortunately becomes a pretty common item. As these Discovery's are getting older what's happening is we're running into head gaskets, slip sleeves, damaged cylinders due to burning coolant, a number of different things where you would end up requiring to replace the block before you;d be able to do a proper rebuild. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to remove the engine out of a Discovery. This is a 2000. Essentially 1999 to 2004 are all going to be pretty much the same other than the 2003 and 2004 some have the secondary air that's just a little bit more involved there. But what we have here is a 2000 Discovery. The heads are already off the engine. We made a determination we have a bad cylinder sleeve. And we're going to have to rebuild and replace the block. So, we're going to show you basically what you're going to need if you want to change the engine over on your Discovery. So essentially we're going to start from underneath the vehicle. And there's a lot to unbolt when you get underneath. Main thing is going to be you have 4 bolts that attach the transmission torque converter to the flex plate. We're going to access those from an opening that's just above the starter. We're also going to be taking this little bottom plate off so we have access so we can move the torque converter. This bottom panel that sits underneath the front pulley of the engine, we'll take this out so we can put a ratchet and a socket on the lower crack pulley so we can turn the crank. That makes that easier. Starter wiring. Knock sensor wiring. We've already removed the heads off this engine so we already disconnected at the exhaust so the exhaust is floating free. You've got your 2 cooling lines that run from the transmission up front to the transmission cooler. We're going to unbolt some of that. There are some brackets on that that attach it to the engine. And the of course the bottom bolts for the back of the oil pan. And the 2 on each side above where the transmission bolts to the block. And then the other 2 we'll get to from up top. We're also going to unbolt the, probably unbolt the mounts. You've got 2 nuts on the bottom here. Some of this like the mount bolts you'll want to pre-soaking in penetrating oil before you get into to the rest. Give that a chance to work it's way in. So there's a bit to do. But it's all got to get done. It's not all that bad. It's just a little time consuming but it's nothing but nuts and bolts. All right, so, first things first. We'll start with the heat shield that surrounds the starter. And that will give us access to the 2 wires that attach to the front of the starter. The S wire and the battery cable. And what holds that on, the back of it is a snap clip, but in the front there's a little hidden bolt right up on the engine mount. Just over that plate on the inside. You're going to have to do it by feel. A 10 millimeter head bolt. And that's what attaches to the front of the heat shield to the motor mount. You need to remove that to get the heat shield out of there. So we're going to sneak up in there with a ratchet and short extension, a 10 millimeter socket, take that bolt out. so we've taken the bolt out of that shield on the round the starter as they said there's just a snap clip on there so we push outward and then come back a little bit now like I said earlier you have the battery disconnected so you don't have to worry about shorting out or touching that wire and this is gonna just sneak right out the front steering that comes right out there's the snap clip I'm talking about so you can see this just basically grabs right around the starter solenoid take that out alright so our next step is going to be to disconnect the cables off of the starter and you have one 13 millimeter nut for the battery cable and then a little what they call the S wire which is your wire which engages our solenoid just simply plugs in we can grab that with a pair of needle nose pliers and pop that out once we clear that out of the way and we've also got on the same harness the wire for the knock sensor which we're going to disconnect there and then then we can just take this part of the harness and swing that right up out of the way and then we're going to look at the couple different ways we can get at the four bolts that both the torque converter to the flex point alright so there's an access to those four bolts that hold the torque converter there's a rubber plug on the passenger side right above or right here underneath the starter and just above the offhand it's part of the back of the off pan you pull that rubber plug and you'll be able to get a direct shot at the bolts now there is a recessed in the oil pan so I usually find the best way to get at it is to use a long extension about 11 inch with a 13 millimeter side get enough ratchet and then just get in there and turn it to break it loose now to get each one to spin this I find the easiest way you take a 15 16 socket and a rat long ratchet and you get on the front pulley ball then you can just turn the engine you can turn it in either direction and if you have a little foley mirror that makes it even easier because then you can actually see up in there to be determined where the bolt is so bit of a pain but that's the way it's designed that's the best way to deal with it the only other way would be to make it any easier would be maybe to drop the front drive shaft to get that out of the way so you can get your hand up in there or even just drop the oil pan what you're gonna have to drain the oil anyway before you pull the motor out so this there's alternative ways of going about it so we're gonna take those four bolts out and then we'll go to our next step which will be accessing and getting to the bottom bolts locking the block to the transmission alright just quickly so we got the four bolts out this is what they're gonna look like is four all the way around thirteen millimeter head like I said they're not all that easy to get at but you can get at them so the next step is now we're gonna be unbolting back in the block from the transmission will do the lowers first and then we've also got a disconnect the transmission coil whines because they are held by brackets that bolt up to the oil pan we'll get that out of the way and at that point well actually be pretty close to ready to take this out the last step will be taking the nuts running the nuts out of the bottom of the motor mounts and then we'll set this down and we'll start disconnecting from up top so we'll start with the transmission cooler lines because the brackets that lock them in place there's one area where the coil lines are right in front of two of the bolts that we need to take out for the transmission to block so you have a clamp here and then another one up front that's got ten millimeter nuts we're going to take those out and then that will allow these to float around nice and loose and get them out of the way we're gonna leave them in place we're not going to disconnect them from the cooler we're not going to disconnect them from the transmission this way you don't lose any fluid you won't have to worry about doing that after you do your reassembly all right so now we've removed and disconnected the three clamps on the transmission Coll line so they're a little more flexible now it gets a movement so this way we can move these out of the way push them out the way when we get to there are two bolts facing the front of the engine on the back of the oil pan and two on this side we need to take those out and then you have two on the bottom and then one on this side and one on this side and the rest we'll be able to do from the top will show you a little trick on how to get to that so from now we're gonna take those bolts out and then we're also going to remove the nuts that face down on the motor mounts once we've done that we're pretty much free and clear underneath and then we can get back up on top and get the rest of the bolts out and get this engine out all right so now before we throw these bolts in the trace we're gonna do is I want you to show you take note you got different length bolts that come out of each location you got these four bolts or what's going to come out of the back of the oil pan into the transmission these are the two that are up higher at about three o'clock and nine o'clock and then these two are the ones that run through the bottom of the pan into the actually the bottom of the transmission bell housing and into the pants so just take note of the links so that when you go to put it back together you put the right bolt and right hole so we're going to throw those in one of our trays and we'll put that aside and now we'll get to the two nuts for the motor mounts alright so now that we've got the transfer the transmission to block bolts out on the bottom we're gonna take the two nuts out of the motor mounts you have an 18 millimeter nut one here facing straight down and another on the other side pointing straight down so you can get at these with a long extension and a good size ratchet a breaker bar or an impact gun once as it goes out we actually have a little hidden bolt right up here which holds this knock sensor harness up against the block instead of being a plastic clip it's actually bolted on so we're gonna get a half-inch socket on that and zip that out and that should pretty much clear us from underneath after this pretty much clear sailing we do need to drain the oil and remove the oil filter before we put it up before we put it down on the ground so that's pretty much that's pretty much it from underneath so let's get that done and we can set this vehicle down on the ground so now we've got this set down and we're ready to finish off the top end disconnect so that we can pull this motor out so what we're going to do at this point is we have the lower the upper : hose right here that runs from the thermostat over to the water pump and then over to the heater hose we're gonna remove that so we can move that out of the way you have an electrical connector right here for the oil pressure sensor and then there's another underneath for the camshaft sensor there's a plastic connector in there with a squeeze tab on it and you squeeze that down we'll disconnect that by doing that this harness here will be fully disconnected and we can swing that up and out of the way and get that out at that point we should be able to easier easily get at the oil engine oil cooler which some vehicles are equipped with some are not and you'll be able to tell this is one of the lines right here for the engine oil cooler then there's another that comes in up below a 7/8 open end wrench will crack that loose and we'll take those out we've already drained the oil and we've removed the filter so when we take that line off we're gonna drip a little bit of oil but not too bad so maybe you want to put a rag or some speedy dry or something underneath just to catch that a little bit so let's get this apart so we can get the engine hooked up and get it out of here alright so before I pull the hose off on just a few things the clamps that are gonna hold that hose on are nothing more than just a squeeze type so you're going to grab your trusty pair of water pump pliers squeeze down and on and lift them up now what will happen is these are probably been attached for quite some time they're not going to come off easy initially and just take the water pumps set it up for about the right size of the hose and if you grab around the end of the hose and twist back and forth all of a sudden they're just going to crack loose and then you grab just to the outside of the pipe so as you squeeze it rolls the hose off now before I pull this off there's going to be some residual coal in there and probably sitting in the pump so I'll throw a pant or catch pan or something underneath so that's gonna catch that so now we'll just roll that out so we'll do this and this the same way this holes will be out of the way alright so here's your two connectors removed this is the one for the oil pressure switch there's a little metal spring top you're gonna depress that and then this will pull right off this one is a little more difficult because it's in an area you really can't see but this is the tab I was talking about it runs across the back you just reach in underneath with your fingers and just give that a really good squeeze sometimes it helps to push it into the connector squeeze it and you'll actually in most cases you might even feel or hear a little click and then you'll pull that right out so now we need that harness up out of the way and that opens up your view now to the two lines for the oil cooler you have one right here and there will be a 7/8 open end wrench it'll crack that loose and then the other one underneath again it's just it's a no see but you can feel it you feel the pipe run up and there's a nut the same size as this one right up underneath we're going to be able to sneak a wrench in and probably have to tap it with a hammer just to get enough leverage to be able to swing that wrench and this is the transmission coil line you can just push this down out of the way it's flexible now because we've unbolted it from underneath and once we get those two out then what we're gonna do is we're get-- the engine crane hooked up and the trick to getting the back bolts and we're at least getting better access to them has been that with the lift we're gonna pick the engine up we're gonna unbolt these brackets on both sides take the motor mounts out completely lower the engine back down and it will now lower three to four inches lower than it would be with the mounts which exposes the pop bumps in the back and makes it a lot easier to get at them once we've got those bolts out this is ready to come out alright so we've got we're at the point we're ready to start pulling the motor we want four bolts up top that we've got to take out plus the motor mounts but before we do what we want to do is put some support under here under the bell housing of the transmission as you can see there's no mount and so when we pull this engine this is going to want to drop and it's going to want to drop down this is a woman housing so we don't want to bang it on a crossmember we don't want to bang it against the driveshaft we'd kind of like to hold it about where it is so that when we go to put the new engine in that we were able to line up the bolt holes a little easier so what I'm going to do is you simply use a regular pull strap these little straps are very strong and what I can do is I'm going to sneak it over the frame over the catalytic converters - under the bell housing back up to the other side and then come down to the frame and we have these convenient pull hooks that are on the discovery tools that they use done when they ship them over from Europe that they could lock them down in place in the container so these come in very handy right now so that's all we're gonna do right now is we're gonna run this up route it up and over under the bell housing back over the frame and we've got enough room between the frame in the in the body speak this through all right so in this case because of this strap the the turnbuckle or lock buckle right here was going to go up over the frame so you can also hook on the radius arm did the same thing basically over the frame under the bell housing back over the frame and hooked up there get a little bit more slack than I'd like so we can just take a little wooden block and throw that in there that's not going to go anywhere and so now we're basically ready underneath we've drop this back down and we're going to raise the motor enough to take the motor mounts out then lower the engine which will actually be now lower than it would be sitting on the motor mounts so you get better access to the four bolts on the top once those are out this engine is out alright and last but not least before we get into doing this though we realize we gotta take the hood off because we're going to need clearance we're gonna have to come up quite high you really don't want to put this hood will fall back but it'll only go so far before it starts digging into the plastic cow and possibly bending the back corners of the hood so relatively easy to take off one thing you definitely don't want to forget is to disconnect the washer hose pull off this nipple right here and then we have 4 13 millimeter head bolts we'll take those out and it actually will stay in place even with the bolts out while it's on the prop rod and then it's just a matter we'll take the prop rod we'll slide it down a little bit before you do call your neighbor a friend because this is definitely a much easier job for two people once you've got this out of the way and we'll get to work taking those top bolts out of the engine so you see now we have the hood off and what's very easy to take off like we shown and it's very light it's an aluminum hood now we have that out of the way now this opens up the entire area to make this much easier you'll also notice what I have hooked up to the top is what they call a load level or for a portable you can rent them you can buy them they're not that expensive and they just make the job so much easier essentially what happens is you'll be hooking this to the engine hoist and you can turn this handle so change the position of this Center bracket and then that will actually change the tilt of the engine so that as we come up and out it'll make it much easier and it also makes the installation 10 times easier so something you want to consider before you go pulling it out so what we're going to do now then is we're going to unbolt the motor mounts where they bolt to the engine block we've already got the two bottom pins done so we're gonna hook this up pull this up a couple inches access these inside bolts is to there's actually three bolts that hold them out to the block once that's out of the way we lower it back down we're gonna be only get to those back bolts all right so now as you can see with the motor mounts and the brackets removed in the engine load we've got very good access to these four top bolts on the top of the bell housing now we're gonna at this point all we need to do to move out of the way is the O2 sensor connectors for upstream you'll see one here and there's one on the other side they just slide over a metal tab that has an indent in it and you'll see a little push button right there on the top of the connector and you're gonna slide that to push that in towards the center of the connector to release it that connector will come out and then you're going to basically grab the back side of it with a push tab to separate the two halves of the connector to get that out of the way and then right here we have our crankshaft sensor connector and we're going to squeeze this top tab pull that apart that gets the wiring out of the way so now we have good access because the one bolt on this side and the other side at the lowest points are holding the bracket that holds those O2 sensors in place so the right in the way those connectors so we're going to remove those and then we're gonna take those four bolts out you can use if you have a flex head ratchet and a socket will work good they're gonna be half-inch heads I might prefer using I use a box socket wrench which basically has a flexible socket on one end and an open end on the other and that seems to work pretty well or even an offset wrench they're gonna be a little tight initially but once you break them loose they usually spin out fairly easy so we're gonna go ahead pull these apart take those four bolts out and then we'll be ready to pull this motor out all right so I'm going to show you a neat little trick being that the bolts on this are half-inch so we have a half-inch wrench we got a box socket down on that lower bolt I really don't have a lot of leverage so if you take a 3/8 break a bar and put a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter on it of course that adapters gonna fit right on the wrench and now you've got leverage to break this bolt so we got the four bolts out of the back we showed you how to take them out and at this point danger was ready to come out literally all I we did was put a little tension on the chain grab the front train back and forth and the engine just come right off the transmission in most cases that's how I've had them come off once in a while you're going to get one that's going to be a little tight you can take a long straight blade screwdriver and get in between the transmission there's and the engine is a couple areas that race the areas that are just for that purpose sometimes they just need a little gentle persuasion but for the most part they actually come right off so now we've got this away from the transmission we've centered up you're gonna check underneath you've got a couple cooling lines or whatnot that may grab a hold of something under the bottom so you just want to come up a couple inches at a time check your lines check your hoses a little couple inches at a time and eventually we'll get it right up and out of there now we have the adjustable adjustable top piece so that we can change our angle as we come up and as we come down by putting that in angle like this you sort of shorten the length of the block the other thing on the exhaust so going back to that piece of cardboard that we put in front of the radiator is also going to protect it in case this suddenly swings forward this suddenly swings forward and touches the radiator and we're gonna punch a hole in it we can square this off it's a snug fit but it does come out try to hold it square we don't catch the wiring harness in the back and you come up now remember to as your arm comes up it shortens the distance so that this engine is actually going to move forward a little bit as you're coming up so take that into account you just want to hold it back just a little bit we're gonna have to go up quite a way because we still have the oil paint underneath there forward where the adjustable comes in real handy we can pick up the back end a little bit and clear the oil pan and there we go she's out now it's just a matter of getting things prepped on the new engine that's going to go in and we'll reverse the process alright so we have the engine sitting here and then what we have to do now is we have ancillary parts that got to come off this engine that are going to go on the new one because they don't come with the new short block and you're looking at flywheel Assembly your starter front cover front pulleys and then we still have the crankshaft position sensor and in some engine designs your replacements not going to come with an oil pan either so we're going to remove the oil pan and that basically is stripped a block down to its bare essentials you know you would be getting new lifters and some other pieces on there but for the most part we're gonna need the majority of their loose outside parts on this to transfer over so first we're gonna start with the flywheel are actually flex plate and then a torque wheel because this is for automatic transmission this is the flex plate that bolts to the torque converter there's your gear sets right there for your starter starter on the other side and the course front cover an oil pan so let's start at the back and we'll work our way forward alright so starter first you have two bolts on the starter one top one bottom eight millimeter hex drive and I'll run that there and we'll get those two bolts out I'm sure we save our hardware we're gonna need those bolts to put it back in and now we're going to take flexplate and torque wheel off now something you want to do when you take this flex plate off these are notorious for a hairline cracking where the bolts go so you want to give it a really good inspection to make sure no cracks no stress fractures nothing on that so we this one looks clean put that aside then we have our large spacer and then the flex plate is basically held on by a hub and we've got six bolts right here that have eight millimeter hex drive in them and we're gonna take those off now these are in these are in really tight plus when they go install from the factory they're also held in by lock tight so I find sometimes even an impact done isn't good enough to break them loose now you can either put like I said a large screwdriver through here to kind of hold it in place I have a tool that's been around for a long time and is used specifically for holding a flywheel or attorney so we're gonna use that to hold it and I'm going to put a breaker bar on this with a reducer adapter so that essentially we're going to reduce down from half inch drive to 3/8 drive meter then we're gonna break these loose by hand and take them out okay we have that off make sure again save the hardware put it in a spot where you're not going to lose it so we're gonna do now is the last item in the back is going to be crankshaft position sensor which is on the left-hand side of the engine alright so the next thing we're going to take off is the crank position sensor and we've got basically an insulating cover over the top of it so we've got two bolts here that are seven millimeter we're gonna take those out take the shield off and then under that is two nuts on too long studs and those are eight millimeter and once we take those off the sensors out alright so we got the two nuts out we've got the shield off and then you have the spaces here that lock it in place again put them in a safe place don't want to lose them and then you just slide that crank sensor right off those studs don't worry about the rest of this this will come on the new short block so now at the front of the engine we've got water pump pulley lower pulley and front cover so we're gonna do is zip off these three bolts take that pulley off 15:16 so take the main crank pulley off and then from there the damper just slides right off to things you want to look at when you get to that point you want to look for heavy cracking and splitting essentially a vibration damper or this lower pulley is a center hub with a rubber ring and then the outside pulley I've seen a number of these come apart this rubber dries out and the whole outer outer area the pulley area can actually slide right off and cause damage so if you see any dry cracking and whatnot I would suggest replacing this and then on the water pump I would suggest if you're going to put a new engine in you're gonna take the water pump out replace the water pump put a new one in you really don't want to take any chances on overheating or have the thing go a couple months down the road after putting a new motor so just a suggestion so we're going to zip this off and get this out of the way so we can take the front cover off all right so at this point now we're at the water pump and what you have is four bolts here here here in here are 7/16 or 11 millimeter and these go all the way through into the block and then the shorter ones the 10 millimeter are the perimeter bolts and once we zip those out we can take the water pump right off and then from that point we're just going to take all the perimeter bolts off of the front cover and the front cover will come out as well so here's the water-pump like you said once we took the bolts out of tap straight off definitely want to replace the at least do the gasket on this now right underneath it is your camp position sensor we're gonna zip this off there's an 8 10 millimeter bolt and that's going to come right out and then we're gonna do our perimeter bolts on the front cover all right so two things to note you'll notice that when you're taking the perimeter bolts out the bolt that's in this position has a little bracket on it you want to make sure you make note of that so when you go to reassemble the bracket ends up in the same place that's the basically the hole down for the connector for the camp position sensor we want to make sure about that now you've got the perimeter bolts in there are also three nuts underneath there are studs that come down through the front cover and go through the coil pan and you need to take those three nuts out as well now the studs that are fairly long so you can do this one at two ways you can either take a little stud puller and pull those three studs out in which case then you can just take the front cover and pull it right off or what we need to do now is we need to unbolt the oil pan so that we can get the oil pan down out of the way so that we can then pull the front cover so we're gonna take care of that oil pan right now now what I'm gonna do is this is kind of a neat little trick you got a little bit of a stub that sticks out of the back from the crankshaft so you really can't lay this right up on end without some kind of a spacer so what I do is use that point there and we got some coolant left in there so now that we've got this leaned up you can see you've got a row of bolts on both sides basically we've already got the back bolts out and when we pull the engine you got a bracket right here that we want to make sure we note when we take that off and then there you can see where your stud is this one came out with the nut but again there's your there's your three studs so we're gonna zip these two premier lines of bolts out that's going to move the oil pan they'll be the oil pickup tube we zip that out and then from there we can just take the front cover off all right so we've taken this line of bolts out now just the note you have two more down in these wells these are at the very back of the oil pan and up inside so a lot of people forget about those I've zipped those out so now we should have all the bolts out so we can tap off the prefer to use a rubber mallet as opposed to a steel hammer obviously because it's aluminum you don't want to you really don't want to crack it you just can see somebody RTV the heck out of this but you really shouldn't do something I'll suggest to afterwards once you get all this off before you go to assemble it may get some engine degreasers or cleanup or take these to your local machine shop and have them hot tank this what it'll do is it'll clean off all the oil and grease get all the money out of it you really don't want to put a new short block in and have something like this in the bottom of it so here we have the oil pickup - we got a 13 millimeter nut here we've got two eight millimeter bolts here that will take the oil pickup tube out and then from there we can then remove the stock in there and we can remove the front cover so something also make know enough here's the yeah here's your I'll pick up two removes you have an o-ring here at the end and definitely want to replace that before you put a new one back in always put a new o-ring and then take a note that you had a stud a nut and then this spacer that went on the back of that bracket then the bolt would run through and then bolt to the block and that put this in the proper position so now you've got basically you've got everything unbolted and then we can just take a rubber mallet on this Center should break it right loose again whoever somebody's been into this engine before and obviously really likes our TV which is sort of a no-no plus they've got washers now between the oil pan and the block which is also no no and we'll lift the front cover right up and out now I'm gonna make a note we've actually touch base on another video about these front covers but essentially what you have here you can take these six Phillips screws out or actually I think they're posi drives now these are Phillips and inspect your oil pump alright you have an inner gear and an outer gear the outer gear basically is the rides against or sits in this housing the front cover so you want to make sure there's no scratches deep marks or whatnot they can affect oil pressure any marks at oil at all any scratching you want to replace the front cover and these oil pump bolts so just a note so that's pretty much it you've picked off what you need to strip off the rest is going to be on the new short block you put in and again would be a really good idea as far as the auto-pay in the front cover if you can get them cleaned off as well as possible would also be a good idea to do two valve covers at the same time and just get those items cleaned up so not only will you eliminate the fact that you could have somedirt or contamination so inside of them when you put them on the new short block but also they've making a cleaner approach to make it much nicer when you sort and put it back together and the engine itself will have a nicer appearance so we're ready to start putting this together we're gonna start at the back and essentially show you is that how to reinstall the the flywheel the flex plate and the starter that basically is going to kompis the back and then of course your crankshaft position sensor so we'll start with the flywheel and if you notice you have a pin to stick the back of the crank and that pin is gonna go to your locating hole and you'll see this sort of toothbrush all the way around that's an indication that's got to go towards the block because that's where the pin from your crankshaft position sensor is gonna ride so I usually just take one bolt and we get that locating pin lined up we can rack this back and forth until it drops in just take one of the bolts and we're gonna start we're gonna leave that half hanging out reason being is now we're going to put the other five in we're gonna put a little drop a thread lock on it and then we'll take that one back out put the drop a thread lock in and put that in all right so we've got a little thread lock you can pick this up in any automotive center and we're just gonna basically put just a little stripe right there it doesn't take much just need a little bit go in and we're gonna do that the remainder three bolts so we're gonna take this one back out actually even at this point we can do so now you got two bolts in there to keep the flywheel and dropping out squeeze a little bit on there and then put that back in alright so we're gonna do the other three the same way and then we've gone to the book and refer to your torque specs and these six bolts get torqued down to 58 foot-pounds handy little tool sort of old-school not many guys have got them anymore but this is basically for holding if it's a flywheel holding tool and they are still available so we're just gonna go around we're going to torque them all up to 58 and then we're gonna go back around and just recheck them all so you'll notice on the first torque I do it and diagonally I go across sort of in a star pattern and then just to make sure that you've got them all what you do is start at one point and then just recheck them all the way around in a circular motion so you know you've got all six and all all more torque to the right spec alright so the next thing we're gonna put on is the flex plate now you can see these are relatively thin you see these markings on here so you can see that this this originally was bolted to this side would have been to the transmission and the one with the full circular pattern would fit what you've got here so they would go on in this direction it really doesn't matter if it's the same both ways this is the plate that connects the engine to the transmission the full load of the engine basically goes through this plate to get to the transmission so what happens is on these and I've seen it happen many times they get a hairline cracking them something usually right in this area from the bull hole out to the outside and they give you a noise when they operate so you want to make sure that you inspect it really good put a good light on it go over it make sure you see no cracks in there whatsoever before you put this on so we're going to set this in place put a dab of Loctite on there just to make sure and then these get torqued to 33 foot-pounds alright so next what we're going to do is we're going to put the crank position sensor in that's going to run right here now this is a Bosch engine on the GEMs it'll be a little different but the positioning is the same and what we have then is essentially the sensor goes on then there's a pair of spacer barrels the nuts and that locks the sensor in place and then there is a heat shield cover that goes over the top of that with two long bolts the nuts that hold the sensor in are 8 millimeter the two bolts that hold the shield on are going to be seven millimeter so get your tools accordingly alright so just something I wanted to mention that should have mentioned earlier you had that groove cut in the back of the flywheel as I mentioned the the crank sensor rides inside that groove there's a little pin off the front of the crank sensor I've seen in many cases where when the process of taking the old engine out and that we're reusing the old crank sensor that sometimes that pin can get bent in the process so you want to make sure that you look at that pin it's nice and straight and you can actually look down in the opening here between the back of the flywheel and the block and you can see the pin of the crank sensor sticking out and it should ride right in the middle of that groove if that's the way it's set up then you're perfect you're fine but you just want to double-check that all right so put on the back is your starter and this is definitely a lot easier to do it now than after you drop the engine in place because this top bolt can be a bear so they're essentially the same style bolt is what you had on the flywheel 8 millimeter there allen head one on top one on the bottom we're gonna slide the starter in start the two bolts torquing down to 32 foot pounds and we'll be in and that will basically be it what we need to do with the back then we're going to show you how to put the front cover on in that area alright so just a quick review crank sensor crank sensor cover flex plate flywheel starter so now we get everything on in the back and then what we're gonna do next is front cover alright so now we're into the front of the engine and the first thing we're gonna do is put the front cover on the front cover includes your oil pump and it's actually a fairly large component and the reason we're replacing it on this because we've checked it out and we've looked at the old oil pump there's a little bit of scoring and there's some where you certainly don't want to put an old oil pump that may not be able to bring oil pressure up to where it's supposed to be on a brand new engine you want everything nice and tight so we're going to put a new front cover on it so the first thing I like to do we're going to do two things to get this prepped we're gonna take some sealant that I call it what it's called high-tech and we're gonna spray some sealant on this surface right here where that front cover makes contact and even before I do that going to pour some motor oil I like to get the chain nice and wet before I put that in this way and when I get to the point where I'm ready to start the engine I know I've got a well lubricated chain so I'll just grab any one it doesn't matter because it's mostly gonna drip off so the replacement gasket you'll notice has a black bead on one side and not on the other and this is actually going to sit in this position and you notice when I sprayed I also sprayed around the coolant portals on both sides because we want to get a good seal there and then what we'll do to now is we'll spray the back of the gasket and we're going to wait about five minutes late get a little tacky this is gonna do two things one it's gonna help seal better two it's gonna hold the gasket in place when put the front cover on we don't have to worry about pinching the gasket or having it seen out of place when we go to install it all right so gaskets in place you can see this does a really nice job holding it's got nice and tacky and we'll just a little fingertip tap there now if you don't like the the red that shows up around the seal or don't worry about that after you put the cover on you can shoot a little brake cleaner on every why not washes it right off so you won't even see it so everything's sitting in place now when you put the front cover on as they mentioned earlier the oil pump is part of the front cover if you wanted to get more information on this we actually have another video that basically is a overlook of how this is put together so here's your oil pump drive and you have a key weight on the crankshaft what we're gonna do is we want to kind of get an idea what angle that pin is that we kind of want to set this inner gear and about the same angle and it'll just make the installation easier you know we need to do really is to just line that up and slide it on so once you push it in place you'll notice now you have two locating dowsers pins here and here once you get this up in place you're gonna line those up and this will just set right in place so now it's nice and square so we're gonna do at this point is we're gonna replace install the lower bolts and we're just gonna set them in snug I'll you'll notice that some of these pass through into the block so it's recommended by Landro we're gonna put a little black RTV on the threads just so that it seals all the holes because there's a couple in particularly that paths actually go through into a water jacket in the block we certainly don't want that leaking so we'll take the bolts we'll put a little sealer on there we'll set them in place and then we're going to torque them in so we put a dam up black sealer black art any of each one of these right you got the one long bolt here and then the others are all the same length and then just take note you have a bracket right here on this particular bolt this is the bracket that's going to support the connector for the cam position sensor which is going to go right here so all you want to make sure you put that on so factory specs your recommends torque specs of 16 foot-pounds you start in the middle and then we work our way around in a circular pattern all right so we're all torqued up on the bottom bolts because we're gonna have actually two more right here and another here and then these also pass through into the block and then we've got the water-pump bolts we're gonna do that in a few minutes but on the original front cover there's an adapter right here that does a 45 degree for the oil filter and we're gonna have to take that off the other cover to install it here now it's nothing's it's sealed with an o-ring so I just wanted to explain that and we're gonna show you this is three bolts you take that off and then we're just going to transfer it onto here so this is the elbow that we're talking about and you got four bolts that hold it and I pull the bolts out they're usually on there pretty stiff so you have a little bit of a land that sticks out right here and over here so you can tap on that with a hammer because you will have to knock it off so we've shown you the piece that's got to come off now in the old cover you're also gonna find this adapter and this is what that elbow would seal on and it does nothing but just thread over the existing threaded shaft you're gonna just run that up in there and it's because it's a one inch socket we'll put a deep socket on it we got to Snug that in and now what will happen is when we put the elbow up it's going to seal around that o-ring so put a little Vaseline on there just to make the ease of the installation we'll tighten it up and then we'll put the elbow on all right so water pump is gonna go on next and same thing we did with the front we're gonna basically look at the let's look at the configuration and looks like gasket goes on like so so we're going to spray the greenside we're gonna spray a little bit on that will they get tacky for about five minutes and then we'll be able to put the water pump on all right so actually the book gives you a torque spec where it's the same as what we did on the front cover below it's going to be 16 foot pounds and you have the three bolts this one here here and here which have a six 7/16 or 11 millimeter head on them and you're gonna torque those to 16 foot-pounds the rest of them they're ten millimeter heads and they just go directly into the top and you can see they're open holes they don't go into any water jackets and those are just gonna grab a ratchet and Saki and you're just going to Snug them in all right so last two I am is last but not least we don't want to forget we definitely got to put the cam sensor back in and that essentially is going to now you before you put it in make sure there's an o-ring that sits at the bottom you want to make sure that's there so that that goes there and then of course there's our bracket now what happens on a lot of these the two little arms that act as guides to slide over this you'll see in this case coming apart they broke a little arm breaks so you can tuck one sight in and we're just gonna wrap a little wire tie around there and lock that in place so I'll just to show you what the finished product is we got a wire tie locking this in your wire your hole that's in the camp sensor for the bolt the bolts got through it the clamp in place so everything's all locked down nice and tight now we're just going to put the front pulley on and lock that down and we'll be all done basically with the front alright so same as with our pump did you have that key weight and it extends out through the oil pump so that it also locks onto the front pulley you can see the front pulley has a cutaway for the key so we get them pretty close to about the same position we'll wiggle the Sun and then we'll just wiggle this till we feel it drop in put our bolt on now if you have access to an air compressor and a half-inch hammer air hammer I would suggest use that this bolt calls for a torque spec of two hundred foot-pounds which is real hard to try to hold by hand if you can get somebody to run a tool around the flywheel to hold it in the back while you apply pressure on here or run it in with an impact because that may get you close to the 200 I've had great success over the years I just run them in with a half inch impact that usually tightens up to a little over 150 foot pounds and they never come off so now at this point we're ready to drop this in place so we're going to set this up so that we can lower it in place get it bolted up to the transmission and then just as we did when we took it out where we're going to attach it to the transmission and set it down lower than it normally would sit to gain access to these top four or five bolts and then once those are in we're pretty much bolted up up top we can lift it put the mouth side settle it down the engine action at that point will be in place and ready for assembly so at this stage of the game where we where we're at is they got the vehicle set up on the Left we've raised the lift up up a bit so that we have room for the legs for the for the crane with the air out of the front tires got to get the nose down so we can work our way over without having to climb into it so basically what we're going to do at this point is just simply Jack it up set it over the top and drop it down you notice the oil pans not on the reason for that is your sump is about five and a half to six inches deep which is that much higher you're going to have to Jack the engine to get up and over the radiator support so leave the pan off you can bolt it in once this is in the vehicle and on the mounts it's still very easy to install a pan from underneath so what we've also done is at this point I have a jack stand set up underneath the transmission with a wooden block on it to protect the pan and we can raise and lower the lift a little bit to sort of raise and lower the transmission position so that we can easily get into those top bolts and bolt up the top on on the motor now the other thing I was going to suggest or that I always suggest is you want to set one of the bolt holes for the trim for the torque converter that on the flywheel at about a seven o'clock position and then do the same thing for the torque converter so this way the two bolts are relatively close to each other so once you get the engine in and locked in it doesn't take much just to move one or the other to get it lined up so you can put that first bolt in and then after that it's just spin it and bolt it up and we'll cover that as we go along so that's where we're at right now so if you're doing this on your garage on jack stands then you can always do the height change on the transmission with a floor jack now as of right now you know we've got the strap underneath and that's basically just to keep the transmission from falling out from underneath so so we'll put a wooden block on the and of the floor jack just to protect the pan of the transmission and slide it underneath and you can raise and lower it that way so here we go let's put this engine in so you'll see something that you may notice the strap that I have on here essentially what has happened is a lot of these wealth the lot of these cranes the bar will not come out far enough to actually get the motor to reach against the transmission so using this tool and raising the lower in the vehicle on the jack I can get the angle or the transmission and the engine lined up and then once we got the engine down in its proper height we basically put a ratchet strap on here on on this pipe that's basically as I pull the ratchet strap it's pulling the pipe forward pushing the engine back up into the transmission so we're able to get the right angle so right now we're in we're all lined up so we're gonna get the top four bolts in and then torque those up and then we can lower this down and start getting things ready to put the mouse on it and get that in place all right so you see the engine in this position we've got the four bolts in on the back we've talked them in now like I said you're not going to get a torque wrench you need just gonna have to set them in really tight because obviously they torque them up before they put the engine and transmission assembly and when they first built the vehicle so now what we're going to do now is we're going to pick this all the way up so that we have enough room to attach the mounts on each side we're going to show you that and then from there we just set it down and that's going to essentially put the motor in place and then from here we can lower the vehicle on the lift and actually start assembling the top end and bottom end of the engine alright pick this all the way up we want to watch to where the bellhousing of the transmission just barely touches the bulkhead and then what happens is when this raises this shorten is essentially the arm off the front of the vehicle so the other beauty behind this tool is we can crank this in and as we do that it's also going to move the crane back a little bit from the vehicle so it's not up against the front fender all right so we're all the way up in the air now I'll show you what we have to do with the mounts so what we've got in a used driver's side and you'll see this is a new mount of course you know when you first took the engine out you're gonna inspect the mouse if you see a major cracking or even a separation of the mount from the plate then you know you got to replace it so we've put a new mount in but usually the original bracket it's nothing more than an 18 millimeter nut with a stud just change that pick the nut off that'll remove the original amount put the new one in lock it down and then tighten it good and tight so essentially the mounts it's like so down underneath now it's kind of awkward because you have one bolt on top and two on the bottom and of course one of the lower bolts is sort of hidden behind the bracket all right so we're gonna lower the mount down in there and just line up the top bolt and we'll run that bolt in not tight but we're just gonna run it in till you feel snug and then back it off just a few turns so that we have a little slack so we can line up and install the two lower bolts you know we only need to get the lower bolts in by four or five threads the rest we'll do from underneath and then we can when you come back up top to assemble the upper area then we'll tighten the upper it's all in sequence so we got that in place so just to show you what it looks like in place this is the driver's side mount and we're essentially just gonna do the same on the other side put the top bolt in put the two bottom bolts in as far as we can by hand and then we'll set the engine down because obviously it can't go anywhere once it's done that and we can tighten up the ball and bottom bolts properly from underneath all right so just a note don't be afraid if the stud under of the mount doesn't Blayne right up with the one on the frame everything is built in tolerance and that's why they use rubber mounts you'll notice the stud here we've got slack on the chain so the motor is just sitting there the stud doesn't quite line up with the frame but that's why they make flexible mounts one tap and it's in will do the same on the other side we can disconnect the from this and then set this down all right so just so you get an idea say here's how your passenger-side mouth should look now on this one instead of being behind the hole as little to the outside just nothing more than just take a little screwdriver and give her a little push and it should drop right in so now the engines sitting nice and square on both mounts take the head bolts out and then we're gonna put the vehicle up in the air and we'll start assembling underneath all right so from underneath the vehicle now you can see you got a lot better access to the two lower bolts on the mount same width on the other side so at this point with a 15 millimeter race we're going to tighten those down good and tight and then we have the 18 millimeter nut and we're gonna do the same thing we've got to basically block down the mounts you can get up into these with a long extension an 18 millimeter socket well tighten those down good and tight and that will lock the motor down all right so the other good reason for leaving the pan off when you put this in is to access the four bolts that lock the torque converter to the flex plate as you can see when we explained earlier we want to get them fairly close in position and of course they never line up but you can't blow the torque converter very easily you can slide a long screwdriver just under the flywheel and then just move that torque converter up so you can see the bolt holes so there we are we're all lined up and we can put the new bolts and put one in leave that a little loose so that we can get the other three and easily and then we'll go back around and torque them up now to spend this the easiest way I found we've got the front pulley on so you're going to take a fifteen sixteenths socket and a ratchet put it on the center front pulley bolt and then we can just turn the whole engine around to access the other two bolts all right just a note when you get this top you're gonna see this open porthole right here with the two threaded bolts the essentially Land Rover head reused the same casting from the old GEMS engines where the oil pickup would attach here and come down would feed up through a galley that's up in the block well when they went over to the Bosch system they changed the design where you pick up tube now attaches all the way up here in the front cover so don't worry about leaving that open because that galley becomes blocked off when you install the front cover so don't worry about that when in case you're wondering what that is or if anything needs to be attached there with the Bosch engines you do not worry about that just leave it the way it is all right generally the procedure for doing the torque converter bolts because we're going to put lock tight on this but we don't want to put it on the first ball because we're gonna leave that a little loose and we don't want the stuff setting up with the bolt in that position so essentially what you're gonna do is you're gonna put the first bolt in you're gonna let it snug in back it off about a turn or so so it's loose the next three when you put those in you're gonna put a little dab of Loctite on those like we showed earlier with the flexplate bolts and then run them in take this one back out put the dab on it run it in and then we're going to torque them up all the way around so our next step is going to be to add the four bolts at the middle of the bell housing what I've done is I've started the bolt just so you can see the location one here one up above and then you're going to have two on the opposite side pretty tight to get at and again they're a half-inch head what I've used to get at these has been like a very long 3/8 drive extension with a half-inch deep swivel on the end and then a regular 8 inch 3/8 drive ratchet and with that we can run those in and get them pretty good and tight it's gonna be really hard to actually torque them so all I can suggest is at that point once you snug them in just give it a good hard twist lock them in and you're done on the bolt above because the right midsection are in a very tight spot I found it the best way to get to those is a half-inch shallow socket with a three inch extension and 3/8 drive and then a universal to your long extension in your 3/8 drive ratchet yeah they're kind of tough to get at but you can do it so our next step now is we're going to put the oil pickup back in now you look on the end of it and you'll see that there's an o-ring on the end and then your gasket set will come with a replacement actually it says right on the packet hole rings strainer and pipe we'll just take a small screwdriver and usually these are still fairly flexible we'll just peel that right out of there put the new one on and I always keep a little tub of vaseline or even a little motor oil or work whatever you happen to have around we're going to lube it up just a little bit so that when we install the strainer it's not gonna twist up the o-ring.
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