belt videos
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the primary serpentine and timing belt for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using kit # PQS101271LSKA , which includes the parts to complete this service, it is recommended that both belts be replaced every 60,000 miles. In this video, Doug refers to pdf instructions which can be found here:
Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or use our live chat.
Kit #: PQS101271LSKA Belt Replacement On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on one of our maintenance kits we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander. Part of our maintenance and repair academy that you can find on our website. And on our website you can also find a sheet that's downloadable and printable that will also list all the other maintenance items that we have available for this vehicle. And what we're going to talk about right now is going to be the belt change kit PQS101271LSKA. And this is essentially a kit that is going to allow you to change both the primary serpentine belt and the timing belts. Now there are 3 timing belts on this vehicle. And it is recommended every 60,000 miles. More so for the timing belt because these are critical. They take a lot of wear. And I've seen very many of them at 70,000 miles these are pretty well done. It's a zero clearance engine so you don't want to break a belt at say 65 miles an hour because it will end up causing more internal damage. It's better to do the maintenance. In the long run you'll get a lot better performance out of your vehicle. So, what comes with the kit is your front main timing belt. Your 2 rear timing belts. Serpentine belt. Hold down hardware. 2 new cam caps because you're going to be popping out the old ones in the process of changing over the timing belts. A new tensioner. New tensioner pulley. And a new idler pulley. And this is pretty much everything you're going to need. Now, the process for changing the timing belt out on these is a little extensive. And what we're going to do is raise the hood on this. Show you basic location. And then give you some tips on changing this over.You snap a timing belt at highway speed you're going to cause internal engine damage so it's best to have the timing belts done when they're supposed to be done. Very important on these. So, now that you've read through it and you have a good idea whether this is something you want to tackle or not. Or if you are a repair shop and you need the information to be able to do this repair for your customers, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the primary serpentine and secondary tensioner belts for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using kit # PQS000100SKA , which includes both belts needed, it is recommended that the belts be replaced every 90,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Kit #: PQS000100SKA Belt Replacement On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on serpentine belt replacement as part of our maintenance and repair academy for your 2003 to 2005 BMW engine Land Rover, Full Size, usually also referred to as the L322. Now in the kit you're going to receive both a primary and a secondary belt. Both are designed for your vehicle. And you'll find in this sheet that we have available on our website through the maintenance and repair academy, this is downloadable and printable. This is Kit J, belt change kit, part number is PQS000100SKA. And you'll see listed both you'll receive both a primary and a secondary belt. This is recommended very 90,000 miles. Remember belts are a rubber based component. And in fact over time they'll dry up, they crack, they shrink. You definitely don't want to be stuck on the side of the road with a broken belt. This is something that is definitely should be done on a regular basis. And then depending on the type of driving that you do sometimes you may even want to check them on a more regular basis. They may need to be changed maybe a little earlier than that. Under the normal conditions it is usually recommended every 90,000 miles. So, these are the belts you receive with the kits. And in a minute we'll give you a rundown on how to replace those belts.And we've got our 5 millimeter swivel head allen. Just need to turn about 90 degrees and you'll feel them lock down. Okay. And there you go. You've successfully installed both belts and you're ready for another 105,000 miles. So, when you're ready to change the belts over on your 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also known as the L322, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the serpentine belt for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using part # ERR6896 ( if ACE-equipped ) or part # ERR6898 ( if not ACE-equipped ) , it is recommended that the serpentine belt be replaced every 45,000 miles.
Kit # ERR6896 / ERR6898 Belt Replacement on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications for Vehicles with or without ACE SystemHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to show you the belt replacement for the 1999 to 2004Discovery 2 with the BOSCH 4 liter or 4.6 engine. This kit is part of our repair and maintenance academy. And is a recommended service for your vehicle. Belt replacement is actually recommended by Land Rover every 45,000 miles. Now there are differences in the kit based on whether or not your Discovery is equipped with ACE. Now we do have a previous video which you can check back on which will show you the difference between ACE and non-ACE on your Discovery. There's a very easy way to find out. Now you'll see the 2 different belts. With ACE because there's an additional pump, there will be a longer belt. Without ACE, a shorter belt. Both with 6 ribs. And you'll find that the kit is on a downloadable and printable sheet available on our website. It's kit J. And then depending on which kit you get will vary the part number. Part numbers will be shown right on the sheet. Now what we'll do is in a minute we'll show you how to change the belt over on your Discovery 2 and so you can do this service yourself. and you've installed a new belt. When you're ready to change the belt over on your Disco 2 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the Serpentine Belt for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS Engine. Using part # ERR4460 , it is recommended that the serpentine belt be replaced every 60,000 miles.
Kit #: ERR4460 Replacing the Primary Serpentine Belt on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to talk about the belt replacement kit as part of our repair and maintenance academy program. This is the belt for the 1995 to 1999 GEMS engine P38 Full Size Range Rover which I have behind me. On our sheet you'll see it as kit J, ERR4460. It comes with the primary belt, proper number for this vehicle. This is something that gets neglected every once in a while. No sense being stranded on the road with a broken belt. It is recommended being done every 60,000 miles by Land Rover. And what we are going to do is show you how to install this belt yourself. And again, should you want to change the belt on your P38, you can refer to our repair and maintenance log and you'll be able to pull the sheet up to give you your kit number and give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, replace the serpentine belt (using Kit # ERR5579 ) on a 1997 Defender 90. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and remove the belt, and then replace and install a new belt. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles.
Part #: ERR5579 Belt Change On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on belt replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. And in this kit you simply will be getting the replacement serpentine belt. Now this particular belt is used on both the 97 Defenders and the Discovery 1 4 liters. Now you'll see a part number ERR5579D and what we are going to do is show you the basics on belt replacement. Now I'm going to show you how easy it is to change the serpentine belt on your D90. This is a 97 with the serpentine, not with the multiple V belts. This is the belt you are going to receive in your kit. Your part number ERR5579D. Set that right there. First step is we're going to take this upper coolant hose; that will just slide up out of the way very nicely. You have 2 bolts that run down through the brackets that support the fan shroud. Normally, 10 millimeter heads on the 2. And the center section of this upper shroud is just held in place with 2 clips. One here - just going to lift up. Release that clip. Down on the other side you have the same style clip. You are going to roll this forward so that it clears so you can lift straight up and out. And this gives you pretty nice access to this. We've got enough clearance in there. Your belt tensioner, which is right here, has a 15 millimeter head on the nut right there and that's what we are going to turn to take the tension of the belt. Now it's a 15 millimeter, I use a long 15 wrench, gear wrench. There are a number of fan wrenches available out there. You just need something fairly long that will give you the leverage you need. You're going to push down which you see releases the tension on the belt. Slip it off of the top of the alternator. As a note, before you take the belt off completely, take a note of the way it is routed. Under the water pump. Under the lower pulley. Over the top of the power steering pump. Top of the alternator. And around the compressor. Once you loosen the belt up the fan is in the way. So you can loop the belt around the fan. Turn the fan until that area of the belt comes around. The fan will actually assist in that, help you out with that. Take this side off the power steering pump. Push it down to give it some slack. Then simply slide your belt out. Now this belt is in pretty good position. We're just doing this as demonstrative so you would essentially just take your belt out. And what I recommend, just a habit I got into all the years is take the 2 belts, end to end, stretch them out. You just want to verify you have the right size belt before you go try and install it and find out it might be off an inch. And this one is a good fit. You can see it is exactly the same as the original that came out. Set that aside. Drop this down so you can actually slip the bottom of the belt right underneath the fan. Which will then put us right around the bottom of the lower pulley which is where we should be. We'll start off there with the installation. Lift up a little bit and set the belt in the grooves. We remembered we went over the top of the power steering pump. We're going to take this piece on the right side and just run it here around the AC compressor, because that's where eventually it is going to go. And we went under the water pump, which means we have to go around the fan again. Fortunately with this upper shroud off you really have some room to work where you can put your hand down inside and push that belt down below the fan blades. It's a tight fit between the water pump and the lower pulley, which means you can feed in from one side and pull out the other. There we go. You want to check and see that we didn't slip off the bottom pulley. And as I say, we can get our hand down in there. Very good. Now make sure the belt is centered. You want to give it a good look because it could feel like it is on but you could be 1 rib over, which means after you put it on you'll have to take it all back apart again and readjust it. Okay, centered on both sides of the lower. Centered on the underside of the water pump pulley. Over the top of the power steering pulley. We're going to be between the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley. Top of the alternator. Now when we go around the AC compressor you can unloop the belt from around the alternator because that's where you're going to end up putting it back on. And you hold up on that section of the belt to retain tension so that you don't slip off down below and have to do that again. We'll double check. We're still centered on the bottom pulley. Look good here. Look good here. Center the belt on the idler pulley. Again you're going to maintain tension, take your long 15 millimeter, push down to relieve the tension on the belt. Slide that on. Check for tension - that looks good. Again always double check and triple check to make sure your ribs are lined up where they should be, that your belt is centered on the pulleys and we look good. Essentially our belt is now on. All we need to do at this point is reinstall the upper shroud cover. Put your clips on. Your 2 bolts. And you have changed your serpentine belt. Now when you put this upper shroud in there's actually sort of a slot that it sits in. You want to make sure it is fully seated. And you will know if it isn't because you'll have a real hard time trying to clamp this clip. If it pops on that easy you know you're in place. Same thing with the lower. You'll feel it pop in. Clamp it. Put your 2 bolts back in to hold on the upper shroud. These are essentially just sheet metal screws that thread into the plastic itself. Put your hose back on. Make sure that when you put the hose back on that you don't create any tight bends, that you have a good looping bend on there so that it doesn't restrict the coolant. And there you are. You have a brand new belt on there. So when you you're ready to change the belt on your D90, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the primary serpentine and secondary tensioner belts for a 2005-2009 LR3 V8 4.4L. Using kit # PQR500330SKA , it is recommended that the belts be replaced every 105,000 miles. This service is also valid on the Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009.
Kit # PQR500330SKA Belt Replacement On LR3 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specification or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British and in this video we want to introduce you to the belt replacement kit that's part of our repair and maintenance academy for the LR3. This is the V8 4.4. Now when you go on our website you can access this sheet which you can even download and make copies of. You'll see a recommendation of every 105,000 miles for the belt change kit, belt change kit part number PQR500300SKA. And what you're going to receive in that kit is both the primary belt and the secondary belt for the serpentines. Now, over a period of time, these belts can dry out, dry crack, and lose their ability to grab onto a pulley, as well as they can when they are new. All of this can affect performance. This can also create a breakdown should the belt decide to snap or lose a chunk out of the belt. So, again it is something you do. It's considered regular maintenance. It's a wearable item and you definitely want to do them every 105,000 miles. And we're going to show you how to install these belts on your vehicle.Okay, so we've shown you how to access and remove the belt. Once the belt is out, check the pulleys, put your new belt back in. As I've said, you basically make a reference so that you know which, how the routing goes. And then simply reassemble it - just the opposite of how we've taken this apart. It's relatively easy, it just all bolts back on. We're going to rebolt the bracket. You're going to put your tensioner on, your front belt, the shroud goes right back into place, pops in, and you're set and ready to go. So when you're ready to change the belts over on your 4.4 AJ engine LR3, and as I say this covers from 2005 all the way up to 2009, give our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug as he explains how to identify whether your Land Rover Discovery Series II has ACE or not. ACE is a vehicle assist system that helps to improve the handling of your Discovery when taking hard corners.
Is Your Discovery Series II ACE-Equipped?Hi, I am Doug, your tech representative for Atlantic British. And with this video we are just going to briefly discuss how you can identify whether your Disco 2 has ACE or not. Now ACE is a hydraulic assist system that works with your anti-sway bars to help keep your vehicle level on hard corners. Again, to improve the handling on your vehicles. And essentially because it is hydraulic you have an additional tank in the pump to operate the system. Now the easiest way to tell, if you should need to know, is simply look under the hood. This is your power steering reservoir. If you do not have ACE it will look like this, with a single cap, single opening. Now if you do have ACE, your tank will look like this. Essentially separated into 2 different tanks. The rear one feeding the ACE system, the front one feeding your regular power steering. You would also have an additional hydraulic pump that will look similar to your power steering pump mounted right here on the vehicle. Now the big reason to know whether or not your ACE equipped vehicle has that system is should you need a serpentine belt replacement, there is a different belt for ACE vs non-ACE. Now here at Atlantic British we stock the parts, so you can do both service and repair and maintenance on your ACE system, just contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you. Thanks for watching.
Jim demonstrates how to change the ignition wires on a Land Rover Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004. Watch Jim as he reviews the steps necessary to change out the old ignition wires on your Disco. Jim also explains some of the costs and benefits of using Magnecor Ignition wires instead of Genuine ignition wires.
Discussion and Installation Tips: Ignition Cables For Discovery Series II and Range Rover P38 (Bosch engine)Hi it's Jim at Atlantic British. I do the technical support here. We've had a few questions about doing ignition cables on a Discovery 2, which we have here, or a P38 with the Bosch style engine. It's a bear of a job. I'm just going to go through it pretty lightly today. Maybe you will be able to understand why your shop is charging you a lot of money to do this, or why you may not want to do it yourself. We're going to step over here, and the 1st thing you'll notice is these spark plug wires are buried down in here. And then they go back to the coil, which is buried down behind the engine. The only real way to do this job is to get this upper manifold out of here. It's not that difficult. Basically you are going to take the plumbing going to it off this way. There's like 4 bolts up here. There's a couple of water hoses that have to get out of the way. It might be a good idea to get the AC compressor out. Actually, if you're going to do that, it might be a good time to replace the belt, too. Once you get this out, you'll find the coil buried down in back. I have one on my old Rover over here I'll give you a look at so you can see what some of the problems are. If we go around to the other side, you can see the wires here, they go in the loom, buried down into Never Never Land. When you're doing this job, there's a couple things you probably should get. Underneath the manifold there's this gasket. It's a crush gasket. If you take it out. You should put a new one in. Obviously we stock this part. What I wanted to point out with the ignition coil when you get down in there, it's facing you like this. One of the hardest things to get done is getting the spark plug wires in place. I have a genuine wire here. It has a little spacer. It will slide right down in there very nicely. Main thing you want to make sure with this job is this is secured in there. This is the genuine wire. These are $30 apiece. Kind of expensive just to get this little spacer. Here at Atlantic British we like to give you alternatives. Actually we do these coils here - that's an alternative. We sell the Magnacor spark plug wire set. It's a very good set. A lot of hot rod guys use this company. The thing you have to notice on these wires, it doesn't have that little spacer so when you're installing it you have to make sure that this piece gets centered on that little pin on there. Otherwise you'll have a misfire and you won't fix what you're trying to fix to begin with. The Magnecor set of wires here available at Atlantic British, it's $140 for the whole set of 8, compared to $30, like I said earlier, for the genuine ones, are $30 each. Get this all apart and you get confused. I would recommend doing 1 wire at a time. I get phone calls of people got everything apart and they can't seem to figure out where to put the wires. On our website, you can go to Rovers Resources under Discovery and you can find this diagram. Another little picture here I have. This is looking down in the back. That's what you're going to see once you get the manifolding off, where the ignition coil is. There's another picture here that we can send you. It's a little more self explanatory. You have to notice that this is viewed from the back if you were like sitting in the drivers seat looking at your ignition coils. As I said we have everything you need to do this job here at Atlantic British. Check us out at RoverParts.com. Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Check out our sales guys. They know all about this job. What you need to get to do the job. As another thought, thinking about doing this job. If you take the manifold off, that's the perfect time to do your valve cover gaskets, too. They're right there. And I've had a couple of guys tell me it's actually easier to get the valve cover out to feed the wires around the back. So, it's a bear of a job. It's doable. If you have long, skinny, micro fingers you may be able to do it without taking them out. I can't do it. Follow us on Facebook and we'll get you through fixing your Rovers.
ARB talks about the new ARB601 Digital Tire Inflator. ARB manufactures Bull Bars, winch compatible replacement front bumpers, ARB rear bumpers with tire carriers, ARB roof racks, ARB Air Locker locking differentials and covers, ARB Rock Sliders, side rails and steps, ARB Freezer Fridges, ARB Air Compressors, ARB Snatch Blocks, ARB Snatch Straps / tow straps, ARB Tree Savers, ARB rooftop tents and awnings. ARB is also the manufacturer of Old Man Emu (OME) Customized Suspension Systems and is the exclusive distributor for IPF Lighting Products and Safari Snorkels in North, Central and South America. For more information, please visit www.roverparts.com/parts/ARB601 .
This is a new ARB 601 tire inflator. A lot of features and benefits you might miss at first glance. It's actually a year of R&D; went into this to make it as good as it could be. I would say it's probably the leader in the category. Looking at the gauge it uses two triple A batteries. Give you about 200 hours of use out of there. It has several indicators, bar and PSI being a couple we'd use here, battery indicator on the front. It's backlit so at night you can see it. One of the features I really like is the long braided hose. This is really useful when you hook on to your valve stem you actually stand up to pressurize your tires or to let tire pressure down. You don't actually have to stay crouched. There's a button on the side here you can use for letting air out of the tire. All cast features, robust paddle here and on the end a very aggressive Chuck to hang on to that belt. If you like to learn more about this unique tire inflator please click on the link below.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a Discovery I, 1994 - 1999. Using our money-saving brake kit # ABP214SKA , with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Kit #: ABP214SKA Replacing Brake Hose & Brake Fluid on Discovery I, 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch on one of our service and maintenance kits we have available for the Discovery 1, which is going to be replacement brake hoses for front and rear. And this is something that is recommended be done on your vehicle every 105,000 miles. And this is going to be our kit ABP214SKA. And what you get in this kit are the 4 hoses: 2 front and 2 rear. These would be your front. These 2 would be your rears. Along with 2 new sealing washers and 2 new nuts to hold it in place. Now, it is recommended you change these over every 105,000 miles because the original hoses are rubber. Just like belts and your coolant hoses, they do wear. After a while they get brittle. They crack. The replacements that you'll notice are considerably smaller in diameter outside than the original equipment. Original equipment being a rubber hose. Here you have a steel braided hose which is much more resistant to the abrasives that they are subject to underneath that vehicle. You figure that every time you drive in the rain or a dirt road or whatever, those hoses are exposed to all of those elements. So you'll find that the braided steel is a much more reliable design. These are manufactured here by us and are designed to fit that vehicle perfectly. You also get 2 bottles of brake fluid which you may think is a little bit much, but we recommend that if you're going to do the hoses, do a brake flush at the same time. You're going to be basically have to bleed the system anyway. Run the extra fluid through there. Get nice clean brake fluid. You'll be amazed at how much better your brake feel is when you have fresh fluid in there. So what we're going to do is have a D1 up in the air. We're going to have the wheels pulled off. We're going to show you the location of these hoses.And it will also give you a better brake feel on the pedal. You'd be amazed of what just the changing of the brake fluid can do for the brake system. So, when you're ready to change over the hoses and give your vehicle a good brake fluid flush you can contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen a call at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to access and replace the water pump on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. A common replacement item, water pump part # STC4378OE includes a new gasket. Please note: This How-To Video applies to and is also valid for a 1997 Defender 90, 1995 - 2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995 Range Rover Classic, vehicles with 4.0 / 4.6 Bosch or GEMS engine.
Kit # STC4378OE Replacing the Water Pump on 1999-2004 Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on a common item that's replaced on the 4.0 and 4.6 engines, both BOSCH and GEMS. It would be the water pump. They can fail in several different ways, one being either an outer seal leak, bearing wear out, or an impeller wear out. So we're going to touch base on replacement of the water pump and show you this is something that you can do yourself and in your driveway. This is a relatively easy repair. Now we offer several different water pumps, each at different levels. All are proper fit to your vehicle. You want to check with your salesman and find out what would best suit your purposes and suit your needs on your vehicle. So what we are going to do is we're going to basically show you how to access the water pump and then I'm going to use this front cover to give you a closer bird's eye view of what you're going to be dealing with when you do the changeover. for the Discovery 2, 1999 to 2004. Then it's just a matter of re-install your lower hose, put your fan and your belt back on, put your shroud on, and you're good to go. So again, when you're ready to change over the water pump on your vehicle, and I said this will work on any of the 4.0 or 4.6, both GEMS and BOSCH, which would be your P38 Range Rover, Discovery 1, Discovery 2, late Classic and your Defender 90 as well. So give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the alternator for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009. This replacement is also similar on the LR3 V8 4.4L and the Range Rover Full Size with the Jag engine. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210.
Part #: YLE500390 Replace / Install Alternator Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport SuperchargedHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about alternators. Now something that I've seen come up on a pretty regular basis lately on some of the Sports and the LR3s is a failure of the alternator. Actually a failure of the diode in the alternator. And some of the most common systems of what I'm getting on the phone calls is an intermittent lighting of the battery warning light on the dashboard, and a sudden increase in the noise from the cooling fan. And essentially what happens is when the diode goes it induces an AC current into the system that the body control module basically interprets as energize the front fan. And so it will sound louder than you will normally hear it. So those are 2 of the symptoms that are starting to show up on a pretty regular basis. A lot of these vehicles are getting older. They're hitting the high miles. These alternators have seen 130 150 some of them 190,000 miles and it's starting to affect them. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install an alternator on this from underneath. I know in the service manual the installation is a little more involved. We have some tricks to show you that will help you speed that up. And there's something else to look for while you're working in that general area. So let's get started. All right, so, right off the bat the first thing we want to do is disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Before I do that, and before you even get started, I did want to show you a tool that you're going to need to be able to release the belt tension you got to take off in order to be able to access to alternator. And this is similar, there are other models out there, but it's similar design, basically just a long thin bar with a 12 point cut out on the end of it. They'll come with different sockets for the sizes. You'll need a 15 mm on this. This particular application is going to basically apply to both the Sport and the LR3. Same design as the 4.4 engine. And then on some vehicles, and we may find we need to do it on this, there's essentially a plate that adapts to different angles on this and then is held in place by a bolt. That will give you an access angle that will get up to the tensioner to slip the belt off. We're not going to take the belt off completely. All we need to do is get it off the alternator. All right, we're going to start with disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. You have 2 tabs in the front that hold this cover down. Pop that out of the way. Simply pull that out. Negative lead is going to be the one closest to the back of the vehicle. It's a 13 mm. You can do it with a pair of pliers if you want. You just need to loosen that a turn or 2.As you can see you have 1 up there. You have the idler in the back. And on the power steering pump. And on the AC compressor. That all looks really good. So, we release the tension. Pop all this out. Make sure you get your tool out of that tensioner. Most times as I say I pop it out and sure enough it leaves that little extension in there. Always check that. Make sure you don't leave any under the hood. So essentially at this point your alternator is in. And all we're going to do now is put back the side cover that has the 4 plastic rivets, the front panel here. And the splash pan. And what I probably suggest you do at this point before you go putting all that back on, drop it down and start it up and make sure everything is working right and also make sure, put a volt meter across the battery. Make sure that unit is charging. But you should be good at this point. And this should take care of both that intermittent battery light and that noisy front fan. So when you're ready to install the alternator on your Sport or LR3, and I will say that the LR3 and Sport without the Supercharger is a little bit easier because there isn't so much plumbing in the way, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1997 Defender 90. Using our Coolant Hose and Thermostat Kit , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles.
Kit #: 9373SKB Replacing Coolant Hose & Thermostat On Defender 90, 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in the video we're going to touch base on the coolant system service for your 1997 Defender 90 as part of your maintenance and service program. Now I want to show you the kit first. And the kit will include your upper and lower radiator hose. Your heater hoses. Your short stub hose off the front of the engine. Your bleeder screw for your one hose to bleed the system out when you're done. New O ring. Thermostat and thermostat gasket. Now the coolant doesn't come with this. We generally don't supply coolant. It's hard to ship so you can get that through your local supplier, any automotive center will have the proper coolant for this. You do want to use the orange oats technology coolant in this vehicle. It's what's recommended for use by Land Rover. Do not use the green ethyl glycol. Now what we're going to do is give you the basics and show you the locations of these hoses, and some tech tips on how to install. So, essentially what will do now is at this point is we're going to top it off with coolant, we're going to let it bleed down, we're going to start the vehicle. And we can start it without the fan. Just going to run it for about a minute. All we want to do is essentially run it for a minute, shut it down, check for any leaks because now is the time to do it, while you have easy access to your connections. If everything looks good, put your fan, your belt and your shroud back in place, which is just the opposite of your removal and you're ready to go on down the road. So, when you're ready to change over the hoses on your Defender, Discovery or any other Land Rover, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, strip down the front engine compartment and complete the timing chain and related components on a Range Rover Sport 2011 (non-supercharged). This service is not recommended for the do-it-yourselfer, and will give you a new appreciation for your Land Rover tech. The job requires special tools (covered in the video) and in-depth knowledge of the Range Rover. The genuine Timing Chain Kit # TCK5030 provides all the components you need for a complete timing chain and timing component overhaul on an LR4, Range Rover Full Size or Range Rover Sport (see years for exact fitment.) Includes 3 chains, guides, shoes and related parts for a complete replacement and overhaul. The specialty tools needed for this job are available as related items with kit # TCK5030 on our website. Gareth will also address changing out the water pump and thermostat, and camshaft sprockets, which is part of tearing down to access timing chain and /or recommended wear replacements. Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210.
Hi I'm Gareth here's the timing chain kit that we used on the engine the table you see here is the basic procedure to do the job anyway a lot of the components on the table here are not part of the kit the main part of the kit is the timing chains shoes guides right here in the center section of the table a few of the other components of serviceable components that I decided a good replacements while are you doing the job they're all where components are the components more serious wear out and have issues are the v BTS here and here exhaust and intake the other tools are necessity components you have to use to remove parts or tighten or secure components on the engine rather than the word so saying before these are some of the basic tools you absolutely have to have to do the job with this tool is for holding the front dampener the crankshaft dampener and removing the crank pulley bolt these go together as part of a kit it's a 24 millimeter socket it's actually a 3/4 Drive so be prepared for that so that's for holding the crank pulley bolt this tool kit part of the kit is for removing the damper on the front of the engine the front pulley effectively this is the timing toolkit which is have it calls the cam locks the camshaft or turning tool the crankshaft flywheel locking tool and another locking tool for the flywheel over here we have the slide hammer for removing the fuel injectors are very needed tool you're not gonna get the injectors out without this this tool is the fuel injector seal calibration tool and the install at all four is sizing and installing the nylon seals here that hold the injectors well the seals on the tools this job is should only really be covered and carried out by a professional auto technician like this today we're gonna do a replacement timing chain kit on this 2011 Range Rover Sport non supercharged the timing chain kit is a TCK 50 30 we're gonna start off with the basics of taking off the engine covers the radiator shroud the radiator fan all the air intake pipes first we're gonna start with taking off the engine harmonic cover basic just a nice quick tug to pull it off the bass stops and slide out which removes the cover next we're gonna remove the air intakes here and left and right so we can access the front to remove the cooling system shroud from the fan and the radiator remove the pipes the intake pipes gentle tug takes it off the airbox off of the main intake and we're gonna loosen the hose clamp that holds the main air intake from the intake plenum removal of the main engine breather here from removal of the clamp that holds it onto the intake plenum and the breather pipe here by squeezing the two sides and pulling firmly to remove it off the front then a small wiggle should pull the whole assembly out giving full access to the front next is removal at the top fan shroud so we can access the fan for removal there is a clip on both sides tucked underneath here the tilt to the side freeze it and on this side on driver side the press to the side again be careful holding full access to the fan next we want to disconnect the fan electrical connector gentle tug right out it slides right out on these slots a press on the clip and a nut foam tug hold the connector apart next is to loosen off the main nut that holds the fan to the front of the engine so once the fan has been loosened it can be spun off non supercharged cars have a right-hand thread to loosen supercharged cars left-hand thread to loosen this is non supercharged so we're doing it unloosen in the clockwise direction which would normally be tightening so once it's loose it's just nice from the radiator shroud which of course then gives us more access to everything we need to get to at the front of the engine next job is to remove the two belts from the front of the engine the first belt is driving is driving the viscous fan pulley from the crankshaft the second one is the primary belt which drives all the ancillaries which has the tensioner here which will put a tool in here to remove this one we'll undo the three bolts and then remove the pulley off bringing the belt with it so to remove this pulley I undid the three bolts and gave it a gentle tap with a copper hammer right on the edge to shock it loose and that will bring the pulley off of the hub and that will give us the room to remove the belt and the pulley in one next job is to remove the tension off the main tensioner from the primary belt by putting a ratchet or a breaker bar into this slot here relieve the tension off of the belt take the belt off of the tough pulley here relieve the tension back off of the tensioner then we're going to remove this main assembly here this bracket as it's got a roller behind it attached to it which holds the primary belt on also so the tension is quite tight we're going to need a good bit of leverage and a nice good strong hole to remove the tension and then to remove the belt I'm gonna try and pull it off at the top pulley and let the tension go all the way back the belt is actually loose but trapped behind the police next job is to remove this bracket here which is the support bearing area for the viscous fan unit now we can remove the bracket with the pulley on it that also rolls the belt around next I'm going to remove the tensioner bolt here and pull the tensioner off so it should give us more clear access to remove the whole belt from the front of the engine one main bolt that's the whole tensioner off and gives us full access to remove the belt at this point now we have it the belt is now free and can be removed from the front of the car as we're doing this job which is going to be timing chain replacement and the guides and timing chain tensioners and shoes I've also noticed that the vehicle has a little bit of a coolant leak we can see the coolant down here and it appears to be coming from the manifold area where the water pump mounts to the front of the engine so while we're in there we're going to replace the water pump at the same time the next job in the procedure is to drain some coolant out so we can remove the radiator top hose the thermostat assembly and the lower hose so we can gain access to the right side cover that covers the timing gears so to remove the thermostat we have to access the retaining screw down on the side of the cylinder had to do that I'm going to pull out the airbox will give me a straighter more direct access removal of the push plug that holds the wiring harness to the airbox and then a quick squeeze of the connector pulls the connector clean off and took it out the way over there a gentle tug that has now given me clear visibility and access to the retaining screw right there to undo so we can free off the thermostat assembly I'm going to undo the clamp here here and here and then remove the thermostat from the vehicle so I can then get access to the main timing cover at the front of the engine so after removing the screw it's left the thermostat free and loose I'm gonna pull the thermostat off the main water pipe manifold at the top here and off of the water pump housing I'm gonna disconnect this quick connector so we can pull the whole assembly out and gives us more access in room so for removal of the thermostat assembly normally we've been pulling this clip and pulling it clean out of the slot of the lower section of the hose however it seemed a little bit tight and seized and I didn't want to damage it so actually undid the main clamp off the lower radiator hose and the bypass hose here so I could access it a little easier and pull it out as an assembly and separate it afterwards at this point we're making a conscious decision to replace the thermostat assembly as a service component we already know that the water pumps leaking it would be good practice to replace the thermostat also at this time so I've removed this little bypass hose from the water pump so not to break it no one do the smaller hose here I'm gonna take it off at the top of the reservoir and the radiator so it gives us good play room nothing gets broken and everything stays intact so I've removed the pipes from the fittings on the right on the engine from the reservoir and on the radiator we'll pop it to one side so it doesn't get damaged and we can reinstall it afterwards I'm going to remove this other hose here from the water pump area which will open up a lot more and then we're gonna start on doing electrical connectors from the front of the engine so we can access all the timing covers properly then we're going to start and access the crank pulley and remove the front crank pulley from the front of the engine and probably the water pump as well so we remove the serpentine belts from the engine the tensioner we move the power steering pump pulley off of the power steering pump these can be a little bit tight there are gets to be rust corrosion build up on the edge of the flange here I took it off I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight and scraped away a lot of the loose rust and then pried it off it did come off quite clearly and easily the next job was to remove the timing covers from the front of the engine to inspect and test the timing very ATIS to see if they turn smoothly or not this one I took off already as you can see they literally have several screws that hold them on and then a gentle pry against the Tang here and here will pull it off and it will literally pop right off same on the other side I took the screws off of this side already this is just a little bit of a wiggle to pull off and take out those will be refitted with fresh new sealant on them the next job we've established is we are actually going to replace the timing gear variators here here and over on the passenger side here and here however to do that job we need to remove the valve covers which includes of course removing the fuel injectors spark plugs and coils so I'm going to spend some time on removing the valve covers injectors and we'll be taking more video of that at the time when I get further into that part of the job okay we're gonna remove the breather pipe what looks like the purge line disconnect it here I'm going to undo the wiring harness for the ignition coils and then gain access to the injector rail fuel ignition coils off next a little bit of a tight fit here and here but these two are quite straightforward and easy injector rail out unfortunately the injectors are stuck in and we've got to pull them out there is a special tool for that job a slight hammer saw for the injector removal after the cylinder heads and of course after removing them from the saw and adds when they're reinstalled they have to be put back in with you tap on rings and seals and clips these are the injectors the 5.0 litre engine uses it's a direct injection they seat directly into the sense of the cylinder head and they have to be removed with a slide hammer this is the slide hammer here there are two cuts at the end of the slide hammer that go over the injector somewhat like this to set up a little bit color goes down that's in the cylinder head and some good good long swipes to try and pull it out of the cylinder head they are in there pretty tight because of carbon buildup on the end of the injector and the teflon rings I've also soaked mmm the injectors down with a little PB Blaster you can use wd-40 it does help loosen up and soften up any carbon that might be down there and I've got two more to take out on this side I've already removed the two from ones which were easier to access so that's the next step very dirty but as you can see they're extremely tight in there and you quite a bit of work to pull out appears to be a bit cleaner but still need to clean him all right the next part of the job is to undo the bolts ten millimeter headed ones that go around the valve cover and on the inside section remove those and then pull off this side valve cover we're going to do exactly the same procedure for the right hand side left hand depending on how you're looking at the vehicle taking injectors out coils out and then the valve cover there we go looks easy enough but in there tight okay so now we have the valve cover off the left-hand side driver-side we have had full access to the cams so we can lock the cam if we need to with the new cam locks in the specialty tools we have full access to the timing chain and the variator x' that we're going to be replacing we're gonna time it up lock everything up pull the timing chains off but first I will be starting on the other side valve cover again that's the same removal process little time-consuming but same process pull everything out coils injectors ejector rail valve cover off so next step is to remove the radiator and the AC condenser so we can gain good access and vision to the front of the motor the lower section when we get the front pulley off and for when we time up and put on the new variators and timing chain with the radiator and condenser removed the next step is what I would like to do is remove the front pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the lower timing cover there cams are timed up in the safe position there is a couple of timing marks to note on the front there's a little notch right here on the variator but most importantly at the back of the cylinder head on the cams I don't know whether we can get this in but the slots are normally horizontal and you can perhaps just make out a little painted square section at the lower edge of the cam shaft that is to be at the bottom this is all of course in the workshop manual as well this one's a little bit fainter but you can see just at the bottom of the cam a little couple of numbers and a little painted yellow square box they go to the lower edge when timing it up it's the same on all four cams so the cams are timed up in the safe position to remove the chains the next job is I'm gonna send the car up put the crank lock into position so I can break free the front crank pulley and do pulley removal so here we are under the vehicle I'm going to lock up the crankshaft with the timing plug tool which goes in where the crank sensor goes here on the left side of the engine driver's side you take the crank sensor out and put in the timing tool it's already in there located it can be a bit fussy to get into the right place a little bit of wiggling of the crank backwards and forwards but it does go in nice and firmly the next thing is I'm gonna remove the starter motor out of the engine and I'm gonna install this lock tool into the flywheel which holds everything nice and tight so when we put on all the pressure on the front crank pulley bolt we can actually remove it without turning any of the crank and messing up any of the timing so that's the next step I'm going to start pulling the starter motor out so I can pop this in its in its place and hold the flywheel solid so I like to crank up with the locating pin into the reluctor ring I also put in the special tool that comes in the kit that we sell that goes in where the starter motor goes and it locks into the toothed flywheel you have to find a couple of new pieces of hardware some new nuts and bolts to through bolt it into place and make sure it is locked in between the teeth when I put it in initially I noticed that I hadn't locked it in between the teeth after I used a mirror to inspect had to realign it there is a bit of free play in the plate and the locking pin that goes into the teeth so you do have to make sure you get it between the teeth and not next to the teeth it's all locked up get the cams can't turn the engine can't turn I've put on the special tool on the front pulley you do have to use a jack stand to lock the actual arm of the holding tool I've actually used a piece of 2x4 underneath there as well because I don't have enough room or length on the actual jack stand to hold the locking tool the holding tool in place now the engine can't turn or anything there's a special socket that goes in to hold and undo the bolt it's actually a three-quarter drive I actually bought an adapter a free quarter to half-inch and you will definitely need a nice long breaker bar to actually break the ball loose it's extremely tight I actually broke it loose a few minutes ago but it goes in nicely locks on the bolt like I said I broke it loose a short while ago and it's probably gonna take two good strong pulse to break it loose this is a left-hand thread to loosen it's worth looking into if it has like 12.2 marker on it it's a left-hand thread if it's a 10.6 it's a right thread to undo but definitely worth checking and taking the time to clean the head of the bolt and inspect with the mirror to see which thread it is so now I'm going to undo the holding tool and take it off the pulley and assemble the tool that actually pulls pulley off and the hub assembly from the crankshaft it's got a flanged washer on it that's why it won't come out any further here's the bolt you can see clearly it's a left-handed thread bolt and on the end it says 12 which denotes left-hand thread and recollect from the workshop manual if it's got a 10 it's a right hand thread to undo so now that's out I can take out the other four bolts and screw in the adapter for the power so we can actually take off the hub assemblies on it so the four bolts that left holding the police to the remain to the hub assembly are actually locked on you can see the three I've already taken out this blue loctite on them they're exceptionally tight so when you do come to take them off because there are talks had there h ly a 50 I'm making sure that right now I'm using a 3/8 drive extended ratchet we do come loose so the next procedure is to move the crankshaft pulley dampener assembly it's only really possible with the actual factory tool I have heard of people using an aftermarket tool but you have to be careful not to damage the threads inside the crankshaft these have a left hand thread so we actually went out and purchased the tool specific for the job we will be carrying the kit in the future which will have the hub the bearing and the bar that screws into the crankshaft with the left hand thread I have it assembled right now there are two different length bolts one for removal of the pulley and one for reinstallation so there will be two sets of bolts the kit will also be comprised of the holding tool which is a separate item from the removal tool of the pulley this literally just holds the pulley and the engine still while you undo the crankshaft bolt okay so here we have the crankshaft dampener assembly puller an installer it does both there are people I have heard who bought aftermarket generic pullers say they can get them up with that however this just eliminates any possibility of any damage happening to the pulley or to the engine or the crankshaft the kit comprises of the main shaft assembly which is all separated in the care to bear in mind it comes one end is of left hand thread that goes into the crankshaft and the other is the threaded bar the actual puller installer sits on as you can see there's two bearing assemblies two different sizes one for each side to remove the pulley from the crankshaft the shaft is screwed in first into the crank then you install the hub assembly the bearing assembly which goes I always put the bearing in first it goes into the damper and recesses all the way as far in as you can get it then the other bearing goes on and put in for removal the hub goes this way around over the top and is screwed in the hub with four bolts no four corners screwed down tight and then removing hold the main center butter shaft with one wrench and undo with the other one that pulls the whole assembly off to reinstall the bearings come out to reinstall the hub is actually screwed directly to the front flange of the damper in the second set of bolts which are shorter screwed in all the way down the bearing seats screwed in and then the shaft screwed into the crank and then screwed the opposite way to push it back on to the crank until it's fully home so with the pulley assembly the extractor assembly installed hold the bar with one wrench and undo with the other you may see it's slowly pulling off a little bit time-consuming but the right way to do the job it is on quite tight I can feel it it is coming away okay so the pulley is now loose on the shaft the main shaft that screws into the crank I will probably try and unscrew the whole assembly so we can take it off in one piece bearing in mind is the left hand thread to undo and it's quite a long threaded bar so now we have the whole assembly off it is a tight fit on the crankshaft I've heard of them being extremely tight I believe this one probably came off quite easily and then the next job is to remove the front timing cover from the engine to gain full access to the lower timing area now we have it front cover off pretty straightforward may want to suggest a toil crank seal replacement this one looks to be distorted it's flat around the bottom edge here and up on the top it probably is just the outer dust seal however I don't want to take any risks and half in to go back in there so it'll probably get replaced I already test fitted the cam lock tool to this side that we're going to take the chains off of and the variators and the guides I did the other side the passenger side already the cam tools locked in holding the cams in time the variator Zaroff one thing I did note is that the screws in the intake camshaft were very sludgy and dirty so I'm gonna make sure I clean everything out nice and clean the guides are off the chains are off the tension is off I'm gonna follow that same procedure for this side here this side seems to be locked in place pretty well this is the cam lock tool the exhaust side the intake side it the timings spot-on and this should actually locate in the slots at the back of the camshaft so the camera is back in and locked the cams are locked in the time to position the cam locked all at the back there can be a little awkward of fiddly to fiddle around with because of the bulkhead firewall here you have to get the twist wingnut close to be lined up so it's nice and locked in there next job is I'm going to loosen off the variator screws and pull the variators off place them out of the way they are getting replaced so we will side with a new chain guides and tensioner tensioner is off this is the old style it's gonna get the new style put on the change and that's it the change tensioners role guides off we're now ready to clean up a little bit and start putting the new very acres back on the change back in the guides etc and try and get this thing back together solid so here we are I've built up the driver side of the timing chains bolted in first the first static chain guide the plastic nylon one then I put in the unbolted in the metal one that has the tensioner running against it which is right here the pen is still in it we don't remove the pen until we're ready to set the timing as you can see the exhaust variator is has a little notch at the top here where the timing chain of the mark on the timing chain has to align with the intake has a mark notch on the backside of it here where the paint mark on the chain is meant to align with there should be a little bit of free play in each variator there's a fraction less in this one so when we actually preload the variator x' and set pull the pin on the timing chain tensioner everything the chain tension is set properly also in the kit comes a new oil feed tube pipe here I already replace that but you have to do it beforehand as you can see it feeds the bat gear drive I put our new thrust washers on the crankshaft gear front and rear and I'm gonna build up this side on the left side on the dry passenger side I already check the timing on the balance shaft which is correct so we have both sides built up now the timing variators are on on the left side on the passenger side the timing marks being here I don't know whether we can get that one in there right here but below there's a yellow mark on the chain which lines up and again down here which lines up with an a' marker on the guide on the plastic guide right here now timing up the engine you do have to make sure that the chain actually locate on the crank gear I noticed when I was putting the variator Zahn it had slept off and it seems like it's very easy for it to slip off without noticing and of course note after that I had to take the variators off again relocate it re time it then I put on the tensioner tells you to apply a pressure to the back of the chain guide and then pull the pen and when you pull the pin you do hear a positive loud click of the actual piston coming out and extending and hitting the guide and the tension going on the chain same on both sides of course right and left after that procedure we use this tool here to tension the variators a bit of a strange shape however driver-side you take the screw out of the oil suction tube and pull it forward slightly you roll the tool in behind the gear you locate the pen into the timing gear T which locks it into place we have a torque wrench set to 23 foot pounds which is 32 Newton meters you pull and hold and keep the tension on and tighten up the three screws on the variator on both very ATIS which pre-load the variator x' to there set this side comes out and on the driver side you only tension from the intake and then on the passenger side you tension from the exhaust tool goes in you lock it in I locked it in as far forward as I could because as you can see there's not much room between here and the body of the vehicle the workshop manual does tell you to let undo the engine mounts and Jack the engine up if you're doing it in the car I found that I moved it far enough and kept the pressure on just at this point but that's not that that might not be the norm for all car engines so all the timing gear is Sat bass valve timing your set tension on the variator is set so the next job is to put the crank pulley bolt in the end of the crank rotate the engine over to rotations and recheck the timing however before that I have to remove the cam locks from the back of each cylinder head one two and remove the crank locking tool from the flywheel and from the reluctor wheel so that's going to take me a few minutes to do I'll sort that out and rotate the engine over twice and recheck my timing okay so all the timing is all set up and I have taken the crank locks out and the cam locks are out at this time we're going to rotate the crankshaft two turns for one turn of the cam and recheck the timing and we should be close to putting back in the cam locks and there we go two turns there's one coming up on two okay so we're putting the car the engine back together the timing has all been set I did actually get it off by a fraction so I had to reset it again I found that actually putting in the cam locks back in they come with these wing nuts but because the bulkhead here on the firewall interferes with the wing nut I actually used a 8 125 bolt about two and a half inches long and it does the same job everything is all perfectly turned up now using these cam locks but like I say it's a tight fit on this driver side so I put a bolt in works just as well to continue on we're gonna put the front timing cover back on back into place it has a neoprene seal on it right the way around and then we'll put the crank pulley back on which has to be pressed back on using the tool that we use to remove it with at that point we're gonna build up the front put the valve covers back on front covers back on and put all the answer is back on we'll be doing a step-by-step probably on refit on a few of the components a lot of it is just reverse of removal of course and we'll be putting a new water pump back on the engine as well so the tool is now bottomed out the pulleys on as far as it can go with me just swing it on the pulley sorry on the pressed or I'm gonna remove the press tool from it remembering clockwise to unscrew I'm gonna check with a mirror just to make sure it is fully home and I can even see the key and whether you can see that there key all the way at the bottom at the six o'clock position we still have the crank locked with the locking pin in the flywheel which is gonna stay there until I actually tighten up the front pulley bolt which will add a bit of extra locking we also have to put on the new hub lock for the front dampener put it to the opposite side as we did to undo so we can actually swing on it it takes 200 Newton metres of torque and then 3/4 of a turn it is a stretch bolt so we're reinstalling the front upper timing covers they can be installed with the solenoids in I'm gonna put a thin bead of sealant around this surface here I already put the driver side on they go on very easily but you do have to make sure the mating surfaces are nice and clean and free from the old RTV sealant I've scraped it all off trying not to damage the mating surface the sealant will take up a certain amount of scratches but you can't go Jim of course after that we're gonna install the valve covers I've already put on new seals new gaskets and the bolts back in to help locate the gasket and hold it in place while we try and reinstall it without losing the gasket nice thin bead of sealant okay that's the front cam covers on next job is to put the valve covers on just a couple to hold it in place just checking to make sure the Halfmoon seal at the back on that valve cover is seated in its right place so the harmonic dampener pulley from crank pulley is back installed I pressed it on ivory mounted the dampener holding tool that just holds everything static while you talk tighten it the torque setting initially it's 200 Newton meters and then a 3/4 turn - which is for the torture yield stretch bolt so now I pre turned it but we can feel it there's the 200 Newton meters remove the torque wrench then they want a 3/4 of a turn on the talk to yield balls I've fortunately already tightened it but of course you need a good length break a bar to get that leverage it is quite tight at that point not that I needed two people but I had an assistant help me just makes life a little easier after that stun all that holding tool can be removed the lock pin out of the flywheel can be removed and then I'm gonna start on putting the rest of the motor back together putting fuel injectors in coils back in reconnecting fuel lines etc etc radiator back in of course and then at the end I will reiterate and go over everything again there's no real need to get into any detail of really installing all the components because basic knowledge is that all the components go back on as they were removed I mean I'm sure most of the shops that are going to be continuing to do this sort of job no matter the water pump and replace the thermostat so we focus mainly on the timing chain care and the components that were associated to it so when you're ready for a challenge after replacing this timing chain kit on a 5.0 engine give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our knowledgeable sales reps and they will say well pretty much with all the tooling and all components they need to the job or you can visit our website at roverparts.com.
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation . We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British in this video we're gonna touch on something that we've had a lot of requests for in the past that's a fairly common issue with some of these older 401 4 sixes and that's head gaskets we found a lot of our do-it-yourself technicians and a lot of shops have called me on different issues on these but the biggest thing basically is usually head gaskets so what we're gonna do is we're gonna give you basically a video on how to do that so first I want to talk about the kit that you're gonna need now of course you know like on the floral and the four six as of 1999 he went from gems to Bosch so you need to be able to identify which engine you have in your vehicle before you even begin and that you can get that information right off of our website so what we're going to do is we're going to show you on a Bosch which is a little bit more complicated than the gem so it might be a better one to be able to get into so what I'm going to show you first is the gaskets kit that we have available comes all in one set and gives you all the gaskets that you're going to need to be able to do the whole head gasket job now this is under our part number sa404b engine we do have one for the gems so you'll need to be able to find that in a website the other thing is and because they you normally recommend that you replace them with every head gasket job is going to be head bolts now these are torque to yield head bolts so the specification on these when you tighten them in is based on how many degrees you turn the ball and we'll get into that when we talk about reassembly but this is the head bolt kit that you'll need now if you want to go one step better we also have a stud kit available which will take the place of the head bolts I find this is a more reliable setup especially when you're dealing with aluminum engines because of the high expansion and contraction when they eat and cold so this stud kit is also available through us and we have this under a RP 4301 both of work that had the head bolts or other stud kid it all depends on how you want to put your engine together alright so before we even begin to just give you a few tips that'll make the job a little bit easier for you first off right off the bat obviously we're going to disconnect the battery disconnect the negative lead put that to the side this way you know as far as your alternator circuit and it's not gonna be live you're not gonna touch it and ground it out and cause any damage so we're gonna disconnect the battery we're gonna end up draining the coolant which I'll show you a nice little trick because on these they don't have a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator so I'll show you a nice little trick for getting that off first thing we would do then we would take off the fan shroud and the fan and I have a habit of I let the air out of the front tires which gets the nose down by about three and a half inches what makes it a lot easier to get to the hardware and whatnot towards the back of the engine the other thing you may want to do if you're not that familiar with the design this is first time taking one apart you haven't done one before it's a good idea to grab yourself if the coffee cans little plastic containers or whatever and then as you disassemble the engine you're going to put those that hardware from different segments in a container and you're going to market alternator hardware valve cover hardware and why not so when you go to reassemble it's a lot easier to identify what bolts go where and in general last but not least as I say once we've lowered the front end we disconnect the battery we're going to drain the fluid is bring your digital camera out or your smart phone when you get to an area where like say for your belt configuration or for the way the wiring is routed on one side take a picture of it before you disassemble it believe me it'll make it a lot easier when you go to reassemble so those are some tips to help get you started now I will show you how to drain the coolant alright so we're gonna start we're gonna remove the top of the fan shroud and base and all you've got is four Phillips screws and it's not even a full screw it's a turn 90 degree and release that'll pop pop this up or shroud off take the hose off and then what we'll do is get down to the the fan itself and we'll take that off so we remove the cover from the shroud now we're going to get into the fan now essentially I pre loosened this fan because with several different things you may run into one they may come off very easy where you're going to take your fan tool you're gonna run it down on the nut let it sit on there you want to do this between the blades so that you're not gonna crack a fan blade on this and just take a nice rubber mallet or something with some weight give it a I shot now 50% of the time that'll just break them loose and allow you to take the fan off but in this case we had one where we had a lot of problems and you can do several different things you can take a long straight blade screwdriver sneak it behind a tool and jam it between the water-pump hub and one of the pulley bolts there's also a tool available through Land Rover that is a long flat bar that will drop over and actually grab around all those bolts on the pulley and allow you to hold it and get some leverage if you're in the shop I know I've had to do it several times is a long air chisel extension and then just work the nut and just slowly work it off in this case we had to basically turn this off almost all the way before I finally loosened up so these can get on there pretty tight so be prepared to spend some time on this if yours is in that condition so once we've reached that point we've been able to unthread it and this is a right hand thread we just want to mark that because some of the newer land rovers have gotten left-hand thread on the Jag engines on these on the four on the four six this fan is a right hand thread so we have that off we're going to set that aside for a minute and then what we're going to do now is we're going to remove this shroud there's two 10 millimeter head bolts that'll take the shroud off remove the belt we'll show you how to do that and then at that point we'll show you how to drain the colon on this so next step is going to be removing the belt and as I said earlier what you want to do is pull you out your cell phone your camera or whatever if you're not really familiar if it's the first time you've done this to look at the routing on the belt which runs under the damper over the tensioner or over the idler around the tensioner over the alternator and then down and under the water pump pulley up and over the AC pulley behind another idler pulley and then your power steering pump so take a good picture of that and then this way later on when you go to put everything together you use know where it's supposed to go so the group of the book remove the belt you have your tensioner on the passenger side here it's a 15 millimeter head bolt you can go one of several routes you could use a long ratchet with a 15 millimeter socket you can use belt tensioner they make me sell these everywhere this is a long extended bar with various tips on to fit different vehicles and you can use that as the tensioner I prefer this and using this for years and that just pops on there and you're gonna push down which will lift the tensioner flip the belt right off the bottom idler and pop it right back off you can take the belt off and set that aside alright so the next step is gonna be to drain the coolant out of this vehicle now you notice there is no drain plug on the bottom of the radiator the factory tells you you disconnect the lower hose which means you're going to be standing under this when you let go you really don't want to do that either so what you can do you can drain about 3/4 of the cooling system out just by taking there's one bolt out of the water pump and we're going to show you where that is alright so there's the location of the bolt this is the lower of the two eleven-sixths are 11 millimeter bolts you'll know that because the rest of the bolts that hold the water pump to the front cover are 10 millimetre heads and you can see this one hoots like it had some slight leakage so it's easy to see that it actually does attach to a coolant line so I want you to take that out that's drained about 3/4 of the colon out of the block just don't forget to put a pin underneath to catch it so next step now is going to be to remove this upper hose let's get this out of our way what I did to is it gave a little pre spray of some penetrating oil on the clamps you'll notice that if you don't do that they're a little dry they come off hard shoot a little oil on them and everything comes off much easier now you have warm clamps on this particular connection but at the other ends you have the squeeze clamps before you get this hose off we're gonna take the little bypass hose off take account if you have the original hose on there these get kind of hard and brittle so you want to flex it as little as possible so I like to get this one up and out of the way because it also somewhat interferes would take in the air box and the intake tube out we'll work that off and then basically just set this down and in front of the radiator so it's out of the way less the chance of breaking it so then we're gonna take our squeeze clamp nice pair of water pumps does a great job on these so I'll take that off and then we're gonna back off the one that's here at the thermostat just lift that off there no then it's just a matter of you recently moved to wins and we'll take that clamp off and we'll get this right out of the way it's something I'll mention it of course is taking the hose off and sometimes where these hoses have been on for a long period of time they really stick on there and they don't just twist off so there's a handy tool you can get you can buy these from any tool supplier it's just nothing more than a sort of a bent pointer and you can use that to get up underneath the hose and break it loose from wherever it's attached just work it around back and forth a little bit and that separates it and once you've done that at least three-quarters of the way around you should be able to just spin that out and remove it there we go and now that hoses out now as you go through and you disassemble any engine this is a good time to be looking at different components that wear that you may look ahead of time and say okay this is Warren I'm gonna replace that as well and this way you can get your parts together before you start your assembly when you look at a hose and you look down inside which one will check out the corners on the inside if you see vertical lines in there the Nets telling you that basically the hose is starting to wear on the inside and material is breaking down that material eventually is going to end up in your reading or your heater core and to plugging it up so any sign of real way or inside these hoses you want to replace them if you see any residue or buildup on the junction that's telling you you got a leak there same thing with down on the other end of the hoses wherever you can look down in and see corners just look for lines and striations that indicate the hoses are worn this one actually internally looks pretty good I end up reusing this one now we're going to remove the top of the air box and the intake tube you have worm gear clamp here and you have what the happens these little pop Clips here and these you just get up underneath with a pick and you're gonna lift and it releases now usually recommend or I try to either put these clamps in my little plastic container or just wreak lamp them so that they stay on the hose so when I go to reassemble I can find all my clamps so then we unclip that again we kind of pretreated this clamp a little penetrating oil so it spins off much easier you just want to make sure that's good and loose and then you have two clamps here that you just pop and lift back and then your mass airflow sensor connector you're just going to squeeze the top of it you have to squeeze and tabs on both sides and most times you need a little screwdriver just to work it off a bit and move that out of the way down there twist at that off now there's an o-ring inside this air box you want to make sure one that it's there I've had vehicles come in where that was missing and also if it's expanded or if it's deteriorated and cracked because you want to make sure you have a good seal between the two so you're not pulling in debris bypassing the air filter so we'll set that aside just for a second we have a clamp here and we have a clip here and then we just lift up the back side and we lift the top of the air by ourselves now is a good time take a look at your air filter yeah I think will be replaced in that one so now if you want and very easy to do the bottom of the airbox which actually that area makes a nice shell for when we go to take the AC compressor off this is just a matter of lift until it pops it just pops into plastic grommets this would be harder in for real cold weather so keep that into account if you're working out in your driveway especially now during the winter months and then we're gonna open that up a little bit we have our cold air intake where it attaches to the fender it's just 210 millimeter nuts which I think they're even too plastic the plastic once we get them off make sure you put them in your little plastic container where you're keeping your hardware that just pops right out and we lift that out and now you see we have a nice area we can put depression when we take it out also again nice little tip you got to ground headers right here on this front firewall and these are actually rather important a lot of your sensors ground on these two points while you got the box out it would be a good idea to back them off clean them up a little bit and retighten them back up just to make sure you got a good ground hide so as we mentioned the AC compressor we're going to set it here to take the compressor off we just have a single electrical connector right here push your tab sometimes these squeeze hard there we go you can actually hear it click when it releases and then we have four ten millimeter bolts and this one in the back these you just loosen up with a wrench you really can't get a straight socket on it as you can see your throttle cable and your cruise control cable alright so we have our four bolts out we're gonna leave that back one in obviously can't get it out anyway we'll take a long bar we want to pop that loose because there are two locating dowels that will lock on on the Sun a little bit so what's great about this is we're gonna run that wire under there and you don't have to disconnect your AC so we don't have to worry about redoing it when we're done as you can see we got a nice little holding area right there and keep it out of the way now that we have the belt off now it's a good time to be checking all your pulleys we're gonna do a little spin on the alternator the tensioner so you know this one is kind of stiff and grinding we're gonna definitely replace that pulley there should essentially spin relatively free a little bit of resistance and definitely no grinding and the power steering you want to make sure you feel a little resistance there and now's a good time to grab the water pump pulley and give it a little wiggle let's see if we have any play if you feel any loose play now it's the time to replace that water pump so now what we're gonna do disconnect the battery and we're gonna remove this bracket which is the mouth of the AC compressor we'll do that by taking these three bolts out here you need to remove this pulley because there's a nut retainer nut on the backside behind this that you're going to need to remove to take this off there is a bolt on the side here holding the power steering hoses we're going to take that off we have this bolt right here you've got three long bolts that go through the bracket into the block we'll remove those and this whole aluminum assembly will come right up and out and the power steering pump is just going to be left to the side alright so as I was saying this bracket is going to be coming out and we're gonna set this down well it's a good tip to do right now find yourself a big piece of cardboard or a piece of masonite or what and you're gonna set it right down inside in front of that radiator and essentially is just to protect the radiator so as we are moving brackets and bolts and heavier objects you want to make sure that you don't slip and hit that radiator and end up now having to replace the radiator on top of your head gasket job so it's a good tip protects the radiator save you a lot of money and grief if you don't so before I take this off I just want to show you how to back them out so you can sell these are the bolts that you're going to remove there's two here which we had to remove the pulley here which is nothing more than just 13 millimeter head run the nut out in the pulley and the nut and that bulk come right out you have a bolt here and then this was the nut that Ike was mentioning earlier you take that off because that stud runs through from the head all the way through the power steering pump to the bracket and once we take these three out we can back this out now I noticed on this one normally there's a bolt right here it's more like that's what you're going to run into when you pull the AC compressor up this one in particular was missing we'll replace that when we put it back together but look for a bolt here too that you're gonna need to remove to take the bracket out take the bolts out and then we're going to just take this bracket with the power steering lines and everything and set it right down in the hall I'm right up against the cardboard protecting our radiator and that moves that out of the way without having to break open the power steering system we drain any fluid out of it so now you see the bracket out of the way you can see how much room you develop there and now we're gonna move over to the other side we're going to centrally I've been taking the long-handled 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a 13 millimeter socket on it and use that to basically break loose the bolts from there but most cases they'll come right out and you have a ground cable we're gonna disconnect this there's gonna be a 10 millimeter head bolts on this bracket right here holding the cables in place we're gonna remove that take this bolt out to remove the belt tensioner and we're gonna take this bolt out to remove this lower pulley because we're going to replace this pulley anyway just pull your shot and then once we run this bolt and this bolt out what we'll need to do is take a pry bar to get the alternator out because we have what's basically an expanding socket in here so that when we tighten these bolts it blocks everything down in place and you'll see once I get it off I'll explain a little bit further alright so now doing the passenger side bracket in the alternator and the cables and why not I started a new little container here so I control the parts in two things I'll know the alternator bolts because when we go to put this back together you want to be able to easily identify what went where and that one normally what I do is like with the tensioner and the pulley I leave the bolt right in it and I just stash that to the side so this way I know there's one two less bolts I need to identify the bolts for the alternator you'll notice have a goldish tone because these are anodized the rest of them you'll see are more of a silver color on the shaft but the two bolts that go for the alternator have a gold-tone so they're easy to identify and you want to be careful with this because when you're trying on the bottom side of this you have these fins so you don't want to put too much effort on that to break a pin get to the hardware now we disconnected the battery because otherwise if we didn't this Cable will be 12 volts hot which means you touch this to ground anywhere you're gonna get a lot of sparks so battery's disconnected we're safe there we got a 13 millimeter nut holding the cable on and then a 10 millimeter nut for your field wire we're gonna remove both of those and we have the alternator out of the way so next step is going to be the removal of this bracket the alternator mouth we've already disconnected the 10 millimeter head bolt so we've got this this mount is disconnected we have the cables disconnected at least on the heart and you'll notice now before we can remove this bracket we have another bracket off of this cooling tube right in front of it so we're going to need to remove this coin tube and that's nothing more than three 10 millimeter head bolts here here and then one underneath we'll get that out of the way and then I'll show you the four bolts you need to remove to remove this bracket just to note on the back side of this where it attaches to the intake manifold there is an o-ring we want to make sure we get the old one out of there and then you'll be getting a new one when you get your gasket set so you can discard this and I wouldn't reuse these anyway never you reuse an old o-ring so before I take them out you just want to show you the locations of the four bolts that hold this bracket in we have one two three right here and four just below it into the right we take those four bolts out and this mounting bracket comes right out now I had mentioned earlier as far as the sliding studs that hold the alternator in you can take a small hammer and tap what looks like a flat washer an inch in open the area you'll tap these in a little bit because they're mounted on rubber you might would even shoot a little penetrating oil on it before you do that and then this way when you go to put the alternator back in you'll have a little bit of free space and you won't have to try to hammer the alternator back in it'll drop right in put your bolts in and when you tighten them up it'll move this a barrel so that it locks in against the alternator all right so it's gonna take that out of the way and we'll have basically everything out of the front of the engine that we need to remove so here's the bracket removed and like we mentioned earlier so that we don't get basically lose track of what bolts go where you'll just leave the bolts sit and right in their holes and we'll set the bracket down to the side and now there won't be any back together so now that we've taken care of what's in the front of the motor and now we're gonna start looking at and disassembling the top end next we'll obviously going to be the upper intake manifold now I'm gonna go through the basics as far as the stuff that's going to be common to both the the vehicles not equipped as this is with secondary air and then we'll also touch base on some of the additional items that you need to remove off of this when you if you do have a no.3 204 with a 4 6 secondary air or even the 4 liter with California emissions they'll have secondary air so begin with we're gonna get the throttle cable out of the way where we can just lift up and that will pull up the throttle and open it will turn the will turn this barrel and there's a small opening right here that will allow you to sneak the cable out we'll just hold that open and let's make the front cable out the front and we'll snake the back cable out the back then we're gonna disconnect these two bolts right here and then we can move both cables right out of the way next is going to be removing the 2 : hoses that go to the throttle body heater now you'll notice on this this has got two regular clamps on them but they call a worm gear clamp original equipment it will be a squeeze clamp like we saw right here and like we've disconnected up top where we just put it all underneath and we lift it and pop it in this case I'll need a Phillips screwdriver we'll take these two off be careful with this plastic hose it it becomes very brittle just like we discussed on the one that runs across the top of the radiator so when you're going to move it over just be a little careful on its movement try not to twist it or catch it on anything so we're just gonna back those clamps up and we're gonna pull those two hoses off so file cable out of the way we've got a two hose is disconnected next what we're gonna do is this is the vacuum line to feed your brake booster and this has got nothing more than a quick disconnect you'll see a little holding bracket right here matter of fact you may want to take a picture of that so when you go to put this back together you know which way it goes so we'll pop that up and that'll pivot on there now we're going to push in you can take a pair of needle-nose or a regular pair of pliers you're gonna hold that red cap in against the manifold and then pull the hose out and that moves that out of the way more than likely there should be a clamp here or something to seal off this is another vacuum line there actually this is a breather hose and we'll move that out of the way and always check this little plastic nipple these loosen up on quite a few vehicles which can create a vacuum leak now is a good time before you take it off just snug it in or you can take it off put a little sealer on the thread and run it back in that would just take a 9/16 or fourteen millimeter wrench on that and that comes right out that just threads in the manifold so then by doing this it exposes this little bolt right here which holds your two heater hoses on to the intake manifold and then another down here right underneath this tube and we're gonna take that out so that we can move this hose in this line right up out of the way so we've taken the bolt out from below the heater hose line going into the intake manifold we've taken the top bolt out and we've moved that outer hose down and tucked it underneath the cruise control motor that just holds it out of the way the harness we've got sitting here we'll worry about later now at this point this tucks into an o-ring into the manifold and these usually will stick in there pretty good so what you'll essentially need to do give it a couple wraps that kind of loosen things up a little bit and then we're going to take a straight blade screwdriver and you can just get in behind that and what we're gonna do is just keep working that and you may actually Bend this bottom tab a little bit and don't worry about that you can just hammer it right back down it's not gonna do any real damage just say like I said these do stick in pretty good and we'll just keep working it a little bit what you can do if it's really got a tight one you can back it out a little bit to create an opening and we'll shoot some penetrating oil down in there let it sit about five ten minutes and then this should pull right out all right so now we're on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold and the basically the last things we need to take off of this one there's going to be this breather hose right here this will pull off the the nipple you have your throttle position sensor with your connector right here pop that connector out by just twisting this little tab and push down on the connector that takes that out then we have the vacuum line that feeds the purge valve for the evaporative control that has to squeeze buttons on this connector you're going to squeeze on both sides that will take that out we can basically pop that out of its holder right here and then we're going to disconnect that electrical connector and this way we then can take this part of the harness and work it around through the other side of the vehicle now I'm taking their vacuum line off of the purge for the purge valve as they said there's a button on each side of this connector and they're a little difficult to get at this is a tool that's made actually for removing trim plastic trim buttons and whatnot on trim and fender wells and why not and I find by simply by design this grabs right around both sides and you can push both buttons in then work that right off it makes that job a lot easier and you can actually use the same tool when we go to disconnect the fuel line off the back of the lower intake and we'll get to that later now next step is to remove the upper intake manifold now on this vehicle it's not equipped with secondary air but you'll find like on California models with secondary air and with o3 2:03 and o4 4.6 that they also have secondary air so what you'll be dealing with they'll be actually a valve sitting on a a white tube sitting here and here and it will be held in place by two studs with two ten millimeter nuts on the side of the upper intake now I found it to make it easier on the removal have taken removed the nuts and then remove the studs that are left and then what this will do is allow you to raise the upper intake without having to completely disassemble the the diverter valves now the valve sit on two corrugated pipes that are attached to two tubes that are threaded into the heads and I found the best way on those is if you take a long punch and give the big nut at the base of that y tube where it attaches to the adapter to the head you give that a couple good sharp wraps and generally they will just come right loose and come right out then you can take the vowels out out of the way there'll also be a large vacuum harness that runs across the front and over to a control valve that would sit right about here and then you also would have a sort of oval egg-shaped black plastic container here that would also have two vacuum lines to it and you would just disconnect that at this point because now your alternator and your AC compressor out and you can move that and I just wanted to give you a brief rundown on that I'm sorry we don't have one here to show you but the explanation I just gave should give you a pretty good idea what you need to do now in this vehicle and then also with the type with the secondary air once you've gotten that the tubes and the valves out you're just going to remove for ten millimeter head bolts in the center and there's another ten millimeter down in the back and another ten millimeter Center front there are also two small eight millimeter if they're the original bolts two small eight millimeter bolts that attach the top of the coil bracket to the upper intake and you're just going to sneak down in there with an extension what you can do is pop out the throttle cable to move that over and then there are spring clips that hold this wiring harness in rolling this forward we can get straight in with an extension to get to those two back bolts so that's what we're going to do now and we're gonna lift this upper intake out so we have everything unbolted so we're just gonna pop this up we're gonna lift up a little bit so it clears the there's actually a locating dowel about 3/4 of the way in under here you also gonna have an electrical connector on the backside of the idle air control motor you just squeeze there's a little bar that runs across you squeeze that and pull that connector off and then shoot for you I'll pull the upper intake off so what you have remaining is the lower intake we have the 8 electrical connectors to the all the injectors and then the ignition coil we're gonna remove and then we can access the fuel line down below now the this coil has got a small 8 millimeter head bolt here and then one here once you disconnect those you can lift this up a little bit and there's also an electrical connector on each side which also has a little spring bar that you can press and release it from the coil so that's the next thing we're going to do is we're going to pull we're gonna disconnect it all the spark plug wires off the spark plugs on both sides disconnect and remove the two bolts lift this up take the two connectors out and then we can take the ignition coil and a wires out one assembly now on this particular vehicle and actually on some of the original equipment there gray wires the number of the cylinders numbered right on the wires before you start pulling these off make sure yours are numbered if they are and tag them so that when you go to put this back together you do n don't you would end up putting them back in the right sequence alright then what I've done in this trick works really nice your two air conditioning lines in the back this is very bendable very mobile metal it's generally a high-tensile aluminum so we're just gonna actually pop them back just a little bit you can use a piece of wood what this does essentially it gives us just enough clearance to sneak that coil out of there because it is pretty tight pretty tight fit the other way you can do is to unbolt the on lower intake and slide it forward a little bit and slide this out but I'm just used to doing it this way and it works and we disconnected the two wires off the side and we're just gonna lift that right up and out of there let's pull the wires through if you've tagged your wires just be careful not to pull your tags off so just to show you here here's our electrical connector on one side you see the little metal bar across the top you're just gonna press down on that till you hear it click and that pops right off and we'll do the same to the other and we lift the coil right up and out of there what we're gonna do now is then we're gonna disconnect the electrical connections to the injectors and we should be able to move this engine harness right up and out of the way so now we're down to the lower intake which is going to be nothing more than 13 millimeter head bolts all the way down the line we've got two four six and then six on the other side we've popped off the injector wire and you just kind of moved everything out of the way which really opens up the work area gives you plenty of room to work we're going to take all those bolts out break the lower intake loose because they get they stick on pretty well and move it forward maybe about an inch or so so we can reach down in the back and we're going to disconnect the fuel line and we can have that lower intake out we're at the point now we wonder we've got this all unbolted and as I say these stick and they stick pretty good so what we're gonna do is going to take a flat blade screwdriver you can use a hard scraper or whatnot we're going to get down at an angle from here and the reason we don't want to start here or hit into this because we have a water jacket right here on the intake manifold and we definitely don't want to do any cut any gouges or create any depressions where the gaskets gonna have a hard time sealing so we're just going to run this straight down let's do stick a little bit so now we're gonna reach in the back and all we need to do now is just disconnect that fuel line in the back and we can pull this right up and out alright so down the back behind the lower intake you can see the fuel line comes up and then goes to this connector right here and this is going to be similar to that solenoid that we disconnected earlier you get a little push button right here and then there's one identical to it on the other side just reach down squeeze those two tabs and usually works better if you grab the connector push into the tube squeeze the two buttons and it should come right out next step is going to be removing the valve covers now on the valve covers you've got four bolts and they are eight millimeter 12-point so you're gonna need an eight millimeter or a 5/16 12 point socket preferably quarter-inch drive so that'll fit down that little well that they put the bolts into and that's I sort of have a long swivel which works really well and you're gonna just remove the four bolts and give it a tap now on the driver's side you have a small Phillips head screw that holds the dipstick onto the valve cover now once you take the screw out I found that if you use a carburetor cleaner or a varnish remover and just squirt some down on the bottom of this you're gonna let it sit for a minute and you should be able to work that right up and out of the blocks and get it out of your way so we're gonna take the driver's side off first and once we take the two bolts out on the inner and then we're going to take a short stubby Phillips so we'll take that little screw out that's right on the side here and then we'll take the two bottom bolts out and lift this valve cover right out so we'll move the harness out of the way we've taken the four bolts out we took the screw out of the dipstick and we're just gonna lift this up and away throw the old gasket away and you can see in here we've definitely have had some coal and oil mix in there that's what that milky color is so we're on the right track working our way down to the heads and we're gonna see what those gaskets look like we get them apart another good thing to do take a quick look up top see the condition of the rockers see if anything is odd or out of place looks good just needs to be cleaned off and that's the other thing too is if you have the opportunity I don't know what facilities you have but if you have a local engine shop or whatnot it would be good idea even if you don't have the parts rework at least have them hot tanked cleaned off this way all the gasket surfaces are clean the upper surfaces are clean and just generally won't look a lot better - when you get it done so we're gonna move this out of the way and I can say with the dipstick there fortunately this one nice and loose you just grab the little bracket and just work that back and forth and pull that right up and out on the block and we'll move that out of the way next step is now we're going to take the rocker arms off now remember that you're going to have spring pressure on some of these because of the valve and the camp positioning so when you back these four bolts off you have one two three and four you're gonna back them off just a little bit at a time start from the middle and work your way outward and then just back it out if you end up taking one out completely and then the other can cause a twist and I've even seen it where it snapped the rocker shaft and because it created too much tension so we're gonna take these out a little bit at a time we're going to do both sides take the pushrods out now usually it's recommended that you're going to want to put the push rod back in the same position it was in when you go to put the engine back together because not the the way the push rod seats in the rocker they're not going to be identical all the way down the line it's going to be a little bit different wear on it sometimes that can create a little noise in the engine so when you take the push rods out number on my mark them with a piece of tape or whatever so when you're going to put it back together they go back in the same way so we've taken our rockers off we've pulled the push rods mark your oil your push rods you'll probably feel that when you pull them up you yanked a couple of lifters out which is fine because the next step is going to be pulling the intake gasket out and it's just a matter of this bolt right here and then one identical in the back half-inch socket zip those out we're going to take these two top block downs off and then with a scraper we can just work our way around and lift the whole paint assembly right up and out and then at that point we'll be ready to take the heads off so we're just going to zip this off all right so let me just gonna take a scraper and whip this up now a note the two bolts that you took out of this the one in the front in the back has a different thread than any of the other bolts in this engine they went with a 5/16 coarse thread bolt so you want to make sure that you either mark them or keep them separate or just that you understand by looking at them that you're going to have to use those two same bolts in this position you can't use them anywhere else in the edge so just on that note get this scraped up pull this out of here and you'll see a couple of lifters popped out which is fine because we're actually gonna we'll set them back in place if you're going to continue on after removing the heads to strip the block down probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the lifters in which case you want to take the new ones and soak them in a tub oil before you put them back in just to get them filled with oil okay so everything back there and we take our intake and we get rid of this and reuse it so the next step is to remove the heads now you had two approaches that we can do on this you can either disconnect the catalytic converters from the exhaust manifolds and once you take the head bolts out take the head and the manifold out one Paul or you could take the bolts out that attach the manifold to the head remove the head leaving the exhaust manifolds in place probably a matter what's more convenient for you as far as how to access it me and I have a lift I can get to the six bolts underneath is relatively easy if you're doing this on the floor then you may want to remove the exhaust manifold bolts now the exhaust manifold bolts are a twelve millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you have that style socket before you go taking this off now two things to look at before you take the heads off or before we even begin with the head bolts is there's a 13 millimeter head bolt in the back that in some cases early early Bosch will have no ground wire there but they will have the harness you can see that loop right there there was a bolt went through that into the head to hold the harness in place and then straight down in the back of the left side head is the connector for the cranks crank shaft speed sensor and that is going to be kind of inaccessible you're gonna have to take a long screwdriver you need to pop it out of a bracket that just simply a fork a bracket that holds that connector and you get in with a long screwdriver and what I just pop that out of there sometimes you can even be gonna pull just ahead and leave the exhaust you can break it loose move it forward just a little bit will give you a little bit better access but it's in a crazy place it's hard to get at but just so you know it's there so what we're gonna do is now we're gonna grab a breaker bar and five-eighths you 5/8 or 16 millimeter socket and we're gonna break all these head bolts loose and then I'm gonna put this up in the air and take the six bolts off the exhaust manifolds alright so as I said what we're gonna do is we're gonna disconnect there's three nuts on each side that will disconnect the exhaust manifold from the catalytic converters this is the way I prefer to take it off like I said you can do it from up top it's a little bit harder but if you don't have easy access underneath the vehicle then yes it'll be easier for you so what we're gonna do is they're half-inch you got three nuts on each side these actually look relatively clean we're gonna take those three off drop the vehicle back down and then we'll get the bolts out of the heads and then lift the heads right off the engine alright so as I mentioned before we've taken the six bolts out from underneath now just a note a lot of times because they've been down there and a number of these vehicles have been around for a while they will rust in place you may try to heat them up to take them out some of them we snap the stud in the manifold which it did in this case in a couple places if you're in a shop that's fine because when you pull the heads the manifolds are coming with it you'll have easy access to either drilling or blowing out with a torch if you don't have those facilities you can always just take the manifold off the head take it to a shop having new studs in it the studs are available on these so the next step is going to be now that we've got the bolt out of the back the connector for the crank position sensor out of the back now it's just a matter of there's ten head bolts now when you take them out you're going to notice the top three Center are going to be longer than the rest take that in note so when you go to put the new ones in and once we get the bolts out I'll show you a little trick on how to lift that up and out of there alright so when you're taking the head off one thing I wanted to mention there also that there's a braided ground strap right here this runs down in both to the back of the head you have a ten millimeter nut here you only need to take that nut out and you'll take the strap out with the head also this is the time when you're going to use that five ace Universal socket this is the one that you're going to need to get to that back bolt in this back corner otherwise this is really tough to get at and it's nice because the universal design limits the twist on it so you're not fighting against yourself trying to get it out of there so this is the point where you're going to use this tool and you really only need it just for that one bolt the rest of them will come out with it with a straight bolt with a straight socket now we've got all the head bolts out we've got the lower three bolts out we're going to show you a little trick I'm pulling the head because you're probably wondering okay now we've got the manifold in the head together have a fair amount of weight they're really not that bad so what we're going to do is we're going to reinstall the rocker shaft without the push rods because then we don't have to deal against any spring pressure why not and you don't even really even need to put the bolts in all the way just just about half way you have to support the weight without want any damage to any of the threads and I would suggest do all four don't just do the inner to the outer so this way all this should be the weight a little bit better all right so the trick is we're gonna take two shop rags now that we put the rocker back in place we put the bolts in about half way and we'll talk a couple shop rags just underneath the rail all right so we're ready to pull this out and what we've done is we're thinking to shop rags and tuck them underneath the rail so that you have a handle you say we've run these bolts in about half way it doesn't take it's not a lot of weight but it just makes it easier and then what we're gonna do is just lift straight up take the head right now all right so at this point we've got the head out just to show you here was that connector for the crank position sensor that you can see it's kind of in a very hidden spot and you'll notice that prior to that we've got all the wiring up out of the way so now is a good time they give the gasket an inspection to see if this was your culprit you can slowly peel this off you can see we've had a little bit of blow-by between the cylinders this may be the possibility of a cracked piston we'll have to clean that all off before we can make a determination it could just be water stain so we'll move our gasket up and out of the way and then now we're going to do the same thing with the head on the other side get both heads off and then we're going to do an inspection to see if we have a slip sleeve which these engines are notorious for it's an aluminum block with a steel sleeve that is not pinned or fastened down in any way shape or form from the manufacturer so there are times where they can get hot and the sleeves will move a little bit or the block can crack underneath the sleeve which you'll see traces of coolant so we're gonna go through a basic inspection on that and we'll show you how to do that so at the point now we want to do our clean up before reassembly and this is actually as critical as doing prep work for a good paint job you want to make sure you got everything clean you've done your inspection to see exactly what your cause was why you pulled the heads to begin with and what we found was of course the the back of by number eight cylinder the head gasket in this area between this coolant galley and the cylinder was drawn in : you can see how basically it's steam cleans the solder as opposed to the buildup and whatnot you have any other combustion chambers so what we're gonna do is we'll give you a few tips on how to clean this up usually if they're like really loaded up with grease and oil and whatnot and get some engine degreaser and a pressure washer you get it cleaned off you can see this is reach the level where that's acceptable to put back on we've taken the spark plugs out we have all the gasket surfaces out and essentially at this point all you really need to do is get the OL the gasket surface is clean and dry so that the new gaskets have a good surface to adhere to so what I normally like to do is I'll take a small scraper why not now this is aluminum so we're not going to dig we're just gonna basically write the the scraper over the top and just get the heavy stuff off and we'll do that all the way around until we get it all out we're going to keep this at a good low angle so that we're not digging into the aluminum at any point and then you'll do the same thing on your intake gasket area here now remember you have usually your intake port so these are : you definitely don't want to dig into the aluminum there and then on your exhaust side same thing you're gonna scrape off the heavy area and Buzz that off again it's good to have this the spark plugs out because we're gonna clean those holes out as well and then the next step would be you can take a small brass and I recommend brass not steel especially in the aluminum head and we'll just work our way around in the combustion chamber clean off the top of the valve you see it takes it off pretty easily and we'll get around up in there and then what I can do is you can do one of two things if you don't have air power which where I use a little angle head die grinder with the 3m what we referred to as a cookie and we'll end up buzzing all this off now this is basically example but on an aluminum head you would use a blue cookie they actually are made in several different coarseness and the blue is the very fine which is all you need to just basically take the surface down nice and clean you don't have the air power you can actually go out and buy a pair of scotch-brite again you know this is a very fine so this is what you want to use on aluminum and we'll use that to clean up the surface and then we do is if you don't have the the tool you can take it to a small machine shop or why not this is essentially an engine straight edge and this is actually an edge that is accurate to a half a thousandths of an inch and what you'll do is you're gonna place it in different angles on the head and then with a flashlight on the backside you're gonna look to see if any light is visible through the backside this is going to tell you have some warpage and you can tell how much by just sliding a feeler gauge in there until it's nice and snug but this is what we're going to use to basically test all the surfaces on both the head and the block and the preparation for the top of the block is going to be the same as this we're just gonna lightly scrape off the heavy stuff and then take the rest down at a 3m and the other thing you want to watch and the cylinder heads here and here these are your oil galleys that feed oil up to the rocker assemblies so you want to take a pipe cleaner or a small drill bit or whatever and just run it through there and you're going to find is usually gunk built up in there you want to make sure these are clean the same on the block you have these two galleys lined up in the same area same thing you can run a small drill down through it or a pipe cleaner just to get the gunk cleaned out of it dipped in mineral spirits does a really nice job cleaning it out and the mineral spirits do no harm when you eventually start the vehicle up this so little in there mix right in with the oil it doesn't cause a problem okay so essentially that's the rundown on cleaning up the head and I'll show you a finished product just to give you idea how you should look before you put it back together that's right so there you are you see you're basically your combustion chambers we've got all the heavy stuff cleaned out your gasket surface is nice and cleaned there's your intake surface again nice and clean we've put the straightedge on all of this and we determine that the heads are in good shape same thing on the exhaust and we have a nice clean glass you'll notice when you took the exhaust manifolds off some of the areas you're gonna find a double gasket it from the factory so take note of that where those double gaskets were because on some cases you may need to do that because the heads are nice and straight but the exhaust manifolds they're not built to the thousandths of an inch so sometimes one area is a little less pressure here to create a seal so they double gasket to make up for that so just keep that in mind other than that you just head and once we get that one done these heads will be ready to put back on the engine you
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
all right so you've seen us tear this down now we're gonna go over the things that we need to do before we start assembling the heads as you can see we have everything here and let's start putting it together so now we're at the point now we want to assemble the heads before we set them up on the block so just for a breakdown this is basically what you're gonna be assembling here we'll start with the head assembly itself the things you want to check obviously are for a clean straight surface for the valve cover for the exhaust and then most importantly for the head to block connection and you can see we have this all cleaned up now what we did too is we had put a straight edge on this and we can and you can actually get them out of an any automotive center someone will even loan them to you but these straight edges are accurate to within a half a thousandth of an inch and you want to do a crisscross pattern and then a straight up pattern and you want to basically look for any spots where you could see light if you hold a flashlight behind it and what that does it tells you that at that point then the head would need to be reground this one was in good shape and the bottom line is you don't want to have to have it surfaced if you don't need to reason being is if it had already been surfaced and was with inspection you have it cut again when you cut these and you cut too much off of them it because of the V pattern on the block it draws the heads closer together so what happens then is you may be able to give all the heads down but when you put the lower intake manifold on all holes aren't going to line up they're now closer together and not where they should be in regard to the manifold so keep that in mind if you like you can actually go on some of the forms that are out there you can download a program called rave Rav II and that has the overhaul manual which will give you a lot of the specs for how far you can cut the heads your torque specs for all your bolts and some some of your assembly run down beside our video so all that information makes this a little bit easier so again in this hope we we check the surface we look there surfaces are good our bracket is on now this is the driver's side head we want to make sure your ground strap is on now one thing we want to check is the oil delivery holes that run oil up to the rockers okay the way they're mounted on top and you'll see you got basically a small hole here this is a 5/32 drill bit we're just going to run that down we want to make sure that one is nice and clear that looks good and this one we can feel some drag and sure enough we've got some sticky mung in there so we're gonna do is take some break clean and blow that out on the same token the coinciding openings in the rocker arms you have your oil delivery holes feed a small chamber on the bottom of the rocker and as you can see there we get some buildup actually quite a bit and that can also cause a lowering of the oil pressure to the rockers so we want to make sure that's open and clean so we're going to clean those out we're gonna make sure those are open and then the next step would be to get the exhaust manifold bolted on so you know which manifold it is on your left side head of the two manifolds the single bolt that single bolt will always point towards the front of the engine so when you set the manifold on place if that's up front this is the correct manifold now we're going to show you something else in regard to the exhaust manifold gaskets proper positioning would be like so nope sorry like so reason being is this cross piece here that connects the two ports is below the spark plug and the head bolt now as you can see these can be mounted upside down and should you make that mistake you are now blocking off access to the head bolt and to the spark plug so when you put these gaskets on it should look like this with that cross piece laying on the bottom and then the front would be exactly the same so from there then we're gonna put the exhaust manifold bolts on don't forget that you have spacers on these bolts I've had this in this little little tray soaking and penetrating oil just to get them lubed up so these are gonna be a 12 millimeter 12-point don't forget to make sure you put your spacer so it's going to be your gasket your manifold and your spacer and then we'll lock those down good and tight and then spark plugs now we find the champions seem to run the best in these four all four six engines especially with the Bosch so you're going to set your gap which is also in the the the rave I believe these are 35 to 42 usually some at about 35 because as they where they'll stay within the specifications now is a good time to install them because it's right here in front of you you can lock them down you don't want to make them too tight because basically you've got the aluminum heads you don't want to over tighten the plugs then you're going to take a lot of torque just want to make sure you snug them in and then last but not least and I always replace the studs you'll see on the manifold that you're missing your three studs that go down through the catalytic converters reason being for that in many cases by the time you're doing an engine job on this the threads are pretty well worn off you might have even had to heat them up taking it out now these are set so that you have two different length threads the shorter end is going to go into the manifold leaving the extended area and the barrel extended out so we're going to just replace all those and it's the same thing if you have a stud puller a lock on that'll do a good job if not you can take a pair of needle nose vise grip and grab the barrel don't grab the threads spin that on and so essentially you don't see any more threads on a short and then you know it's fully seated and that's pretty much it so that at this point now once we get everything cleaned off and together we've ready to put the head on the engine all right so here's our heads completed and put together exhaust manifold spark plugs the rockers are on but loose because they're gonna come back off again e-way what do we get the heads on but they're they're they're cysts in sending the heads in place and you'll see why in a few minutes the other thing I want to mention here's your head gasket you can see that on one side they apply some red sealer and what you're gonna look for is that word top so that means that when you set this in place this is the top side this is what's going to be facing the head and again you can also recognize that by the rent sealer you see that red sealer you should be seeing that when you place it on the floor now you also have a couple locating pins on the block so you'd be able to actually set the head gasket and it'll stay in place when we lower the head on it all right so you see what I've done basically just run to rags underneath the rockers so that when they loop them under and come back up I have a good handle and threads the bolts are in you know a good 5 or 6 threads you want them in there a little bit you want to make sure this doesn't come loose second thing you want to mention always put a fennec cover on because there's a good chance you can end up popping into this you don't want to hit the fender you don't want to cause it dead just something else to work on later down the line so we're gonna do then is just simply lift up on the head I can lower it down in set it in place I only need to move it a little bit and it should pop right on you have two locating pins on the block itself one here and one in the back and it's going to hold the head gasket in place as well so everything will be lined right up and then we can put some head bolts in and get things torqued in so we got the head in place the pins will hold that it's not going to go anywhere taking the rockers back off you just back off the four bolts set that to the side because it will eventually go back on we got to put the lifters and the push rods in so you'll notice that we if you notice when you pulled it apart you had three long head bolts in the top Center and then the rest the remaining seven are the shorter bolts and there's your difference in length so we're going to put one of the long bolts in the top on the short bolt in the bottom in the center and then we'll just think we're gonna run the bus to the bolts install them and then just run them down so they're just touching when they're just touching the head and then from that point we're gonna well torque them up according to specs now specs on these we're going to be tightening them all to 15 foot-pounds and then you're going to turn each one 90 degrees with a breaker bar and then wait about 10 15 minutes and then an additional 90 degrees now being on this case we're starting with the new blocks we've got nice clean threads in the block for the head bolts they had this should this be a youth block or and you're doing just the head gaskets you want to make sure you run a thread chaser down each one of those holes you want to get it all corrosion dirt anything out of those sometimes it's even best if you have access to compress there shoot a little solvent down in each hole and blow it out with the air holding a rag over it so obviously you don't get in your face and from that point this way you won't always want to start with clean threads it's also recommended that before you run each head bolt in what we're going to do is keep a little bit of oil then we're just going to simply dip the end in those head bolts before we install them and this way you'll end up with a much better torque rating you're not fighting against any dirt or any buildup in those threads they're gonna thread in nice and easy so once we get those to win and it's essentially same procedure for the rest of the rest of the head bolts we're just going to run them in so they just touching the head so now we get the head bolts snugged in what we're gonna do that before we torque up now I want to just run this by anytime you put a head or a manifold or or even a pan like a pan gasket or a transmission pan anytime you tighten up something like that you always start from the center so you can do either top or bottom doesn't matter but you start in the center and then you simply work across and then in a outward spiral in other words so we do the bottom Center top Center then we can go to the left do top and bottom we're gonna go over to the other side bottom and then top and then around the top to bottom bottom the top and that's the best way to torque up ahead what that does is reduces Distortion you get a better lock down on it and then believe it or not make for a better job when you've done this once I'm going to wait a minute or two and then go around one more time just to make sure they're all evenly torqued all right so should have mentioned earlier the head to these bolts are 5/8 which is basically the same thing as a spark plug socket so I've used the swivel spark plug socket to run them in especially in those back corners it works very well but now that we're going to go to the 90 degree twist you're going to be getting into a much higher torque so we're going to step up to 1/2 inch drive 24-inch break a bar with a 5/8 socket on the end so we'll start in the middle and we'll go exactly 90 degrees and you can plus or minus 10 degrees it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect there are gauges out there that are available that you can actually install before you put the bolt on or socket on and it will show you at 90 degrees but 90 degrees is pretty much just a straight angle so what we'll do see like in this case really can't get a good bite on anything where it's gonna be easy to figure out 90 there we go alright so essentially here's 0 so 90 degrees is you're gonna run into where the bar should end up actually just about perpendicular to the block and we're essentially just gonna do the same thing all the way around the same thing we're gonna figure about where ninety degrees is languages right up against the farm all right then just to make it easier because the hardest ball to get ad through this whole operation is this back head bolt because we actually have to turn it to a specific torque so we've got a five base deep 1/2 inch drive socket swivel socket so this way we can get in at an angle and we'll essentially going to set it up so that it will not only drop on but set the square in an accessible point and then we can figure out 90 degrees from there so at this stage of the game this is when it gets a little tough because now we're going to do the final 90 we've waited about 10 15 minutes we let things settle in on the first torque now with the additional 90 this is gonna bring you up to over one hundred foot-pounds of torque on an average so what you may need to do when it gets real tight and a cheater bar on to this we're going to see if we can go the full 90 without having to add it in this case I think what we're going to do is because 90 is gonna put us past the firewall we're gonna go 45 and then pull this back and reset it and do the additional 45 so that's essentially the procedure for installing ahead and torquing down on their head gaskets now we're just going to do passenger's side exact same process as we did on the driver's side so next step is gonna be to install the push rods in the rockers now what he did was we cleaned up these push rods you want to put them on a nice smooth surface you want to roll them just to make sure nothing is bent you also want to check both ends kind of run your thumb nail over it if you have a if you have an error you're gonna just catch a little step at the bottom but if it feels really rough or even sharp edge you want to replace that push rod so we have all 16 all cleaned up nice and we've got the lifters in place so we're going to go back over to that engine and set things up all right first things first and I've seen guys do this these lifters come in and out of here fairly easy look at that making sure your gonna put that in facing up and not that end I've seen it done they just got to basically wiggle it'll seat in place they're all pretty well oiled because they've been soaked and you're gonna get down through the hole and you're gonna set up all your push rods make sure you go through the guides there's little holes there in the head that guide the top of the push rod all right so we're gonna set the rocker in place now remember we're gonna make sure you've got here's your rounded area where your push rods are going to seat and of course the flatlands end up on the valves so we'll just set this gently in place you want to get the bolts lined up now you got to remember that right now you're going to have there's going to be some of these push rods or in the up position because the cam they're writing directly on the cam which is going to create spring pressure on the rocker arm so when we tighten this down we just want to go a little bit at a time until we seat the rocker down on the head and then we'll put the torque wrench on it and torque specs on these are 28 foot-pounds once we have the all these bolts seated and we're just going to use a ratchet and a socket to see them down then we'll torque up the specs so we got the rockers down in place the rocker shaft will actually the lands are seated on the head so now we don't have to worry about working against spring pressure the reason we did that was because you could possibly bend that rocker shaft if you could torque one end down and the other has spring pressure it actually creates a force that can bend them so now that they're seated we'll start in the middle we've got their torque wrench set at 28 foot-pounds do the two in the middle and then we go to the outside and we do it one more time just so that we know we have an even torque on all four bolts okay it's pretty much it so now we just do the same on the other side and we'll have our rockers and push rods in place so our next step is we're gonna put the lower intake manifold on to do so you're gonna grab the two end seals that come in your gasket set your Valley pan gasket and then of course the intake and basically what we've done is we clean this off so we get a nice smooth surface on both sides and you're gonna need a 3/8 drive torque wrench now you can use a long extension with a swivel end I just happen to have this tool just makes it a little bit easier this is essentially a 13 millimeter swivel on an already built onto the extension gasket scraper in case you need a final cleanup of course a ratchet extension on now this is a tool that's similar to what the factory calls for and it makes it a lot easier to get to the bolts once you get things in place to torque them up you're gonna put this on the torque wrench it's essentially a 13 millimeter 12 point with 3/8 drive can be referred to as a crow foot sometimes socket extension there's a number of different names for them but this does make the job a lot easier so what we do is start off is we're going to take some of the we'll take some of the high tack and we're going to put a little coating on both sides of the heads I don't recommend using RTV on the gasket surfaces but we are gonna use some to seal up where you've got a couple different components like where the head meets the block and where the front cover meets but mostly just the two areas that where the where the head meets the blocks you have four points so we've done that we're going to let that tack up a little bit and then essentially we're going to take some of the RTV now right here you can actually see a little valley right where the head meets the block what we want to do is we want to fill that with some RTV this will help prevent oil we Benji and we'll let that set up for a few minutes you might get a little tacky so you'll notice the end seals basically conformed to the block so one side is fairly straight the other has a curve to it and you'll see that in the gasket as well plus on the end here you have a little wedge that drops down into that area that we are TV so it's going to push some there now in the manual it tells you to reply just put one little beat of our TV but I usually do it twice down in that Valley and then I'll do it one more time over the top before we put the pan gasket on so we got the two end seals in place a little Dabba RTV again on the corners just to give a little extra missile BC just a little extra protection against an oil leak we're gonna set the pan in place or the bolt holes you can look straight down and we'll push that down into place the next are your to hold down plates now if you remember when we took this apart we put this aside so that the two bolts that hold these down they're a little different than the bolts that are in the rest of the bar so you want to make sure that you've put these aside so we're gonna very gently lower the intake sort of in place but just a little ahead so we can reach in the back and then you've got a fuel line I've got to go on then you want to make sure you hear that click once you got it on there now if you look at the ten bolts that go in this item are all the same length there are two long ones and they're gonna go in the front here and then once we get them all started we're going to torque them down now the factory calls for a sequence to start with seven foot-pounds then all the way around again in 13 foot-pounds and then a final tighten in a 38 most of your 3h drive torque wrenches are not going to get down to seven pounds so I usually set mine at ten and then I'll do 20 and then we do 38 all the way around and even then we'll let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and then go 38 one more time around just to make sure everything's torqued down nice and tight and the gaskets been compressed so just like we mentioned with the heads anytime you torque down a head or a manifold anything like that to reduce the amount of distortion we're going to start from the center and then work our way around into a spiraling outward pattern and so we've talked them all as I said we're gonna do in different come we'll do 10 20 and then 38 and then after the 38 we're going to wait about 10-15 minutes and then do 38 again just to make sure everything's down and tightened properly all right so before we put the valve covers on we have an actual bolt that goes up into the back of the head that runs through that bracket right there and what that does is holds the harness in place right about there so we need to attach that and then we also need to attach the ground strap and if you'll notice on this you'll see a green wire with a loop that's also going to go to that ground post all right so now is the point you definitely want to plug in this is for the crank sensor you're going to see the the tab right here that lot latches on to that little notch so essentially that's the wrong way that's the right way plugged this together you should hear a little click when that blocks in and then there's a bracket on the back that you're not going to be able to see this video that this hooks into to keep it from banging around in there this is a really bad connector to try to get to alright so next is gonna be your valve covers now first thing I do if you notice there's a rag sitting on top of the intake manifold we want to cover those holes you're going to be handling small bolts god forbid you drop one and it goes down they'll put one of those ports and fish it out you'll end up taking the intake back off to get at it so we put a rag over there as protection and then what we've done is we've prepped the valve covers we've shot high tech on the inside areas of both valve covers and on the areas of the gasket itself that will lay on the surface reason for that is that when it gets good and tacky we let it sit for about 15 minutes you put your gasket on the valve cover it's gonna stick and it's going to hold to it otherwise trying to hold on to that and keep it from falling in and unsettling is just a royal pain so this way gas gets stuck to the valve cover we run our bolts down we line it up so much easier now remember that these bolts are eight millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you pull that tool out and clean the bolts up a little bit just give him a little shoot down with some brake clean or whatever it's a little cleaner before you install alright so just as a note there's a groove cut on one side of the valve cover gasket and then one side is actually relatively flat except for one raised rib that's the area that's gonna make contact with the head so the groove the area actually seats all the way around in the valve cover make sure that all four your spacers are president they didn't drop out of the gasket and then we'll get them relatively close and then essentially put the four bolts in and remember you've got the two short on the inside part of the engine and the two long on the outside closer to the exhaust manifold so your passenger side first that has your oil fill tube now remember this is a Bosch engine where your fill tube is on the passenger side of course on a Jemez engine you're gonna find it on the driver's side no all we did was just basically hold up the wiring hard-ass sneak that in and then visually give a look at where the bolts line up and you can kind of wiggle it back and forth and you'll feel one of the little bolts kind of drop down in there what we're going to do is and we'll get them all started now the book says to torque to two and a half foot pounds you're gonna need a very small almost like a dial type quarter inch drive torque wrench if you want to torque it up it's two and a half pounds to do all four and then you go up to six pounds is the final torque on on all four bolts so one sides torqued in place and then simply we're just gonna do the exact same on the other side and before you started tightening bolts down because of all is wiring in one eye you just want to make sure you don't have a wire pinched between the valve cover and the head anywhere in the front or the back will lead the problems later on down the line so same thing with this side we've got some wires hanging around so we want to make sure that we don't get them we don't get them caught up in the valve cover and it's pretty much to it on those alright so they would have the valve covers in place we got the lower intake in place at this point we can grab the main harnesses we can kind of set them in place now in most cases when you when you first took this apart you had basically tie straps that went into these these four locations so of course they get brittle they fall apart you try to open them up they break so you can do it one of two ways you can actually wire tie it directly just loop under and wire tie it or I know a lot of automotive centers have the wire ties with what they call a little Christmas tree attached to them and that Christmas tree will pop right into those holes and wire tie the harness in place and that's what we're going to do with this but this way at least pull the harness out you'll also notice that there is one more green wire on this now if you have like a 2001 and later you probably aren't going to find these green wires this isn't this was a I think this was also this was a 2000 but you've seen this on the early disco twos don't see it so much on the later so if you don't see the green wires don't panic it's not that they're missing that just on that particularly design they're not used so don't worry about that rest of it this harness will get down the side of the bracket what we're really thinking about right now is we're going to put the main harness back in this place and then we're gonna plug in all the injectors and then this small bolt right here on the fuel rail is going to be the bolt we're gonna run out and then we're gonna attach that green wire right here for that round idle air control the one wire you want to be concerned with this wires for the knock sensor this is going to run all the way down and underneath you just want to make sure we get that down there because once we get the bracket and the alternator in place or I'm sorry the power steering pump in place we don't want to pinch that wire we want to make sure we put that in a good spot all right bingo okay that's good for now and then as we go along we'll be plugging everything else in all right so at this point now we're back underneath the vehicle we've got to get a few things connected yet now that one harness that has the lead for the starter the starter wire and for the knock sensor on the right hand side we got to sneak that through a hall that is on the upper back side of the mount so that it comes through to just above the starter so you got here's the end of your started connection this is going to go on to this nut here there's a small Spade pushing right on that right over the top of this stud and nut that's your for your s wire that'll be this lead right here and then you also have your connector that you're going to push in you're going to click into your knock sensor right here then once we've done that then we can sneak the heatshield in there and get that popped in place before we put the exhaust on so getting the shield back up in there sort of a bit of a magic trick this bracket tucked up into the all right you know we work on trying to get there's a tab on the end of this that drops into a hole which will help line up just kind of working back and forth until we find it there we go all right and that puts that in place so if you have a mirror what you can do is actually look up inside the mount the see if the holes lined up or not once we determine it isn't it or it isn't turn it the way we need to turn it to get it to line up all right so this is what the finished product should look like this clip is locked around the solenoid your wiring is protected from the heat from the heat shield and then the front bolt is in and locked in place so this is good and solid not going anywhere so now we just quickly we're gonna look through the other side and here we have the other knock sensor we've plugged that in and you'll notice that this loop lines right up with this hole right here and so what we're going to do is go find a bolt put the bolt in there and then that will lock that one piece of wire right there in place so keep it secure and then we can put the exhaust back up in place so now we're ready to put the exhaust up in place we've got to get your to hold gasket up in there and usually can push it up in place I always like to start on the driver's side and leaves me some flexibility on the passenger side we're not gonna run the nuts up tight initially we just want to get them up in place and then the front part is essentially getting up in there to get the gasket on this is actually sometimes a little easier from up top it says we're just gonna lay the gasket right over the opening we'll line up the holes all right so we're gonna hook the exhaust stop we find it's a lot easier to get to this passenger side setup then from underneath because you got the driveshaft and everything else in a way so we're just gonna sneak down in there then we're gonna slide the gasket up over the studs so we can raise that up and it's gonna take a little take a little doing but it will go and we got one two and three and then you can just raise the exhaust up you have to reach down in pull up on the exhaust and slide the studs over with one arm hold it up and the other we're gonna just put one nut on to help support it all right so we've got that side hooked up basically just got the three bolts and I just want to make note don't forget now's a good time to plug in that o2 sensor and then tuck the wire in back behind the right side head and it'll keep it out of the way the exhaust well it's just to give you a shot what we've done on the passenger's side you're going to leave the nuts loose you got allow for some slack and now we're going to pop the driver's side on all right so basically at this point now we've got the six nuts in on the exhaust we're going to run them up we got them completely tight as far as torque specs because of the long extension you need to get up there a torque wrench isn't going to be accurate anyway so you just want to essentially just get them good and tight and then don't forget to plug in your o2 sensor connector on the driver's side and we're going to tuck that back in behind the bracket so next what we're going to do is we'll get these transmission coolant lines back up in place gonna have to do a little don't be a little pushing in pollen but we essentially need to twist it get this one up into this upper clip the lower one into the lower clip and then we'll show you where the other one goes alright so we're gonna install the bracket now that supports the AC compressor and the steering pump you want to make sure if you have an oil cooler equipped vehicle you want to make sure that the one line for the oil cooler underneath is back in behind the bracket also your wire going down to your your knock sensor you want to make sure that's clear and then basically you're going to set it up on that stud that's on the front of the head and that's going to come through this hole right in top of the power steering pump and we just slide that again double-check your wire make sure it's not pinched in there and we'll put the put the top bolt on you'll feel the thread they line right up alright so we'll put the other two bolts on and then we have the nut that goes on the sword and the single bolt up top and then we're just gonna run those in tight just quickly before I run them in just to show you where the bolts out where the locations are the nut and the single bolt up top this is a ten millimeter head these are all going to be thirteen and just going to set them up good and tight okay one thing I'm going to mention about this oil cooler the one line that we snuck in behind the bracket obviously attaches down underneath and gets locked down but to put it in the right position what we're going to need to do is we've we don't want to set it up on this bracket right away we're gonna leave this off we got to get underneath we're gonna essentially put the other end of the tube up into its location by the filter leave that nut loose then get back up in here set the bolt up in this so now the hose is in its proper position there's no tension on any of the parts and then we go back down torque the the nut that secures it to the oil filter housing and then back up to tighten this one alright so what we're going to do next is we're gonna hook up the upper this is the lines for the heater hoses for your heating system I'm gonna move that out of the way and then put a little replace this whole ring and then put a little Vaseline on there so it slips in this way it won't pinch it as we go in it's kind of a tight fit alright so next I'm gonna show it's already connected but just to remind you we're gonna connect you got this you got a black connector here and that's going to go to the cam sensor don't forget it because it's kind of out of sight so underneath the water pump and you don't see it so you don't want to forget connecting that you're going to need that so you can start the vehicle then you also got your oil pressure center right here we've connected those and now what we're going to do is put the other line on for the oil cooler don't forget gotta make sure you put your you put your new o-ring on make sure that can spin all right so now I'll show you we put the lower hose in place you have the one down tube goes into the small opening the long neck is what attaches to the water pump and then the short loop this goes to the angled upward outlet of the thermostat okay just so you have a note top of the thermostat has two outlets you have one that goes up at an angle and one that comes straight up the one at an angle is what's going to get down to the lower hose this one's going to go to the upper hose we'll show you that when we get to that point so now we're just going to squeeze the clamp sign get those into place you can see we got our electrical connections in place and we have this hose in and now the upper hose this has got a short bolt that goes into the bottom and that's been installed and tightened up so then we're going to be ready to put that last bracket in alright so let's get that bracket down in place you can see we've got one two three four bolts that run through so here's the lower on the inside it's the easy one to see this way we can line that up and get that started and that'll make lining up the other three that much easier okay next is gonna be the cooling tube you can see we've got this torqued in place does this say hoses on we got some stuff here that eventually is going to get bolted to this bracket right now we just need to get these on so the tube essentially is tucked in right in the front of the intake manifold you've got an old ring on the back you want to make sure you put a new oil ring there we're going to put a little Vaseline on that and then just to get things started we'll put one bolt in there we'll need about a six or eight inch extension and a ten millimeter socket the reason we put this on after the brackets because there's a support bracket right here that bolts to the alternator support so you need that in place before you can put this tube in so now it's just a matter of we put that one bolt in there and then we're going to put one in the support bracket to support it alright so we put a bolt here in the support bracket so now this will just hold it in place and we can sneak in underneath and install these other bolts all right and now for the fun part in their infinite wisdom Land Rover puts the ignition coils buried back behind the upper plenum so in other words if we put the plan of mine you'd be almost impossible to put this on first off you can't even get to the bottom bolts once the plenum is in place and you can't really tighten them until you put the upper bolts in so what we normally do is we will lay this in place we'll put the two bottom bolts in and we're just gonna just snug them and then back them off just a little bit enough to give a little bit of movement the reason being is when we put the upper plenum on that has to slide underneath these holes so we've got to have some movement in there so that we can line them up and you were going to use the top bolts to secure this in place all right so we're gonna do we're going to drop this into place but before we go trying to put the bolts in place we have the two electrical connectors there's one and there's the other and each one of these gets plugged into each side this powers this side coil this powers this side and then basically one coil will power four cylinders and each coil pack has actually two individual coils built into it the other thing what we're gonna do is before we even grab those little bolts we're gonna put a rag over the top here because god forbid we dropped one down in the hole it will not be fun fishing it out all right so we got both the holes lined up we've got one started on one side now you can see these are hard to get at so if you put a little dab of our TV or you can even use grease and we're gonna do is put that on that socket and that's gonna hold that bolt so we can sneak it down in there location so we can get it started and then we're gonna do the same we did with the other one we'll run it down Snug it in and then just basically back it off about a half a turn just to allow enough slack so it'll wiggle so we can get those top bolts set alright so now we're gonna put the plug wires in now you'll notice most of the plug wire sets even after market for these are numbered you can see here's number one number three number five number seven so there's one three five seven two four six eight same thing on the other side so we're gonna just start plugging these in and what I do is I like to give a little shot a silicon in each one four one makes it go on easier adds a little extra protection to the boot and this way you feel the distinct set in when you put the boot on the plug you should actually kind of feel it click in just put that in your hold it right there and so that's seven threes number five it's gonna go in the middle right here I should hear that click then we'll just do the same thing to the other side alright so now we've got that all set up in the back we're gonna put the upper plenum on don't forget your steel gasket you've cleaned off the top surface of the lower manifold you have to raise dowels on here that are gonna basically give you the right location that's going to hold the gasket in place and then the manifold we self is gonna click on to those as well now if you get one it's a little stubborn we just put a socket over it now what we're gonna do is we're gonna set the manifold in place let's pull this up because we're gonna need this this will go on your idle air control motor because of the way this is set up when we put the plenum on we're gonna need to lift the front it's going to drop in we line it up with the front dowel lower it down and then lock it on to that dowel and then from there once we lock once we put the bolts in and lock down the upper plenum then we have to reach in the back and line up these two holes and run two bolts down through and this will actually bolt to the back of the upper plenum alright so now we're ready to put the upper plenum on we've taken the studs out of the sides and you can either put the studs back in after you put this in place or you can just get some six millimeter bolts three-quarters of an inch long and they'll work just as well so by doing that though it gives us a little more freedom to move this around and get it in place essentially what you're going to be doing is on the back the manifold you have these two bosses that come out these are the two bolt holes for the bolts that hold the top of the coil that goes over the top of this so what we're gonna do is go in in an angle and then drop it down and then move it so that we it drops on to the two locating dowels and once that's in place then it's just put the bolts in and lock them down and what I've done to is to save a little time you can bend this back out of the way here's the single bolt that we left in the manifold when we took this apart so we can just leave it in there and then of course it's going to go in in this position so I remember you've got a sink also a single bolt in the back and a single bolt in the front beside the three long ones that you're going to torque down so now it's just a matter of set this in place you may need a flashlight when you can see what you're doing is simply gonna walk this back slowly you can actually see how everything lines up all right so we've got our hardware right here take our three bolts drop those in and if you can't quite get your fingers in these front and back bolts what I've used is a tool and I'll show you in a second is a tool that called expanding fingers and it will grab around the head bolt and you can actually run it down spin it in and then come in with a socket extension a ratchet to torque it down all right so you can see what the tool does it'll actually hold the bolt on the end it gives you access to do a deeper area right here and you just run your finger down through the feel for the hole and by grabbing the head of the bolt you can actually use the tool to spin it in until you feel it seat down and we'll just do the rest with the socket and we'll do the same with the front bolt sleep in there yeah all right all right so we'll get a 10-millimeter socket extension ratchet and we'll torque those down all right so there is no torque spec listening and Land Rover's overhaul manual specifically for these bolts they have a general a general chart eight millimeter bolts they recommended torque to 13 foot-pounds I think that's a little bit on the loose side I don't have an exact torque spec to recommend but you see what I essentially do is run them until they're snug and then just give them just a little twist just to add some tension let them sit for a couple seconds and then go back and start from the middle and just will go around twice just to make sure everything is tight and even all right so now at this point we have this torque down now's a good time what we're gonna do is we're gonna connect the throttle body heater hoses remember we have this long one over here this is gonna go across because once you put your alternator and your AC compressor back in it's kind of tough to get them in there so I'll do those then you also have your PCV breather hose right here that's gonna go onto this spigot you want to check this black this black spigot or nipple on those because these have a tendency to loosen up so you want to make sure you snug that in you don't want any vacuum leaks there and of course plug in this is the vacuum line over to your brake booster you're gonna plug that in and then what you have right here is the one heater hose that has the hole for a bolt or where the stud was through the side you want to reattach that and then your other heater hose tube or lay up over the top we're gonna put a new bolt in there so that's essentially we're just gonna hook up all the in celery's we've also got for your emission controls you have your your control solenoid here this is going to plug into the throttle body and then your connector for your idle air motor so all that gets connected to this upper plenum and then we can go on to the next step the first one and the fun part is getting those two bolts for the coil to the manifold lined up because you're essentially going to do that by feel what you can do is you can move this big harness a little more out of the way so you can get your hand down in there and the rest is pretty much done by feel and this is why we leave the bottom bolts a little loose on that coil mount so that we can rock this back and forth and eventually get the hole lined up and get the bolt started yeah take a little patience a little time but you'll get it all right so here's a good example you find yourself having a hard time getting that ball lined up if you can get up like I have an expanding mirror that I can use in the back any mural work but what you can do that is angle it down so you can get a look at why you're not able to line up and you'll see like on this one what we've got to do is be able to move that bracket forward and we don't I didn't quite leave it loose enough on the bottom to do that so what we do is we take a little pry bar and then we just just gently move it back a little bit and now we know we can see the holes are lined up put a bolt in there get that lock down all right and then what we're gonna do next is put the throttle and the cruise control cable hook up on here because these two bolts at least one of them is sort of covered by the AC compressor so we're gonna put that off this way the whole upper plenum is all together by the time we're ready to put our two-inch hilary's on and our idler pulleys so you got two eight millimeter head bolts here I'll hook up that bracket we just sort of snug it and what you'll need to do is go to full open throttle you'll see a little slot in the top there slide the barrel in and then line up the slot to pop it fully in place just to make sure it's in there completely you know so you should be able to swivel that little barrel in there so then you know you're in properly and then the same thing with the cruise control slide that over so it lines up with the groove all right you should just have some slight tension on it should have just a little bit of free play on that not much and I will just get up millimeter socket tighten that up and we'll have everything together on the plane all right so just a quick review on the upper plenum because we want to make sure so we've tightened down the four bolts up top one in the back one one in the front for a total of six you have your connection here for your idle air motor you have your connection here for your admission control this is for the evap system this is the OP the purge valve so you have your electrical connection and then you have your hose connection right here this is just a pop in your breather hose and your throttle position sensor you've got your connector up in here so we're we're good there your two heater hoses to the throttle body heater and they're on nice and snug and they're in the back and then of course your two bolts and then we just showed you how to put the throttle cables on and we'll go around to the other side and we'll do a quick review on that all right and then on the passenger side course we have our the breather hoses connected and this clamp is on we've plugged in our vacuum line that feeds our brake vacuum booster our two heater hoses we have the Bolton on top that locks the two brackets so the hoses the metal hoses together along with the single bolt down now I'm going to make a note on this that on these engines without secondary air there's a spacer that goes between this hose bracket and the upper plenum and you would have found that when you took it off sometimes after these vehicles that they've been worked on once before somebody didn't put that spacer back in just a couple flat washers works just fine so that's in place and then of course everything else lines up here now you'll see two and this is kind of a neat trick you can actually take a razor knife and cut this rubber connector for these two hoses though you don't need to all right but just a note and then what we're gonna do then is you can see we have some exposed wire down here that I really don't like we're gonna get some plastic convolute to go over the top of that before we attach everything to this bracket and then we're ready to put the AC compressor and the alternator on alright so next step was what we're gonna do we're gonna tie in the heater hose you have there's actually a threaded hole behind this opening that's going to bolt and support this line up against the alternator mounting bracket and then you see you got two little brackets right here what you're going to want to use is this is a tie strap with what they call a Christmas tree on the end of it so you can wrap it around the wiring here and then plug the Christmas tree into that and that'll basically hold this up in here now as you just can see the old cover has starting to fall is falling off on this leaving the wire insulation exposed you see this piece right here I've installed just to cover up the wiring there we're gonna do the same with this we're gonna replace that convolute like I said you can buy that in any automotive center and then you've got your ground wire right here and that's going to be bolted right in this position from the front there's a threaded hole on the front of the bracket so then that'll get this all set so then the next step will be both the alternator and the AC compressor so just to give you a little overall look what we have is so you're our ground line is attached here our bracket that comes off of this hose is attached here we replaced convolute over the exposed wiring and then we've taken the wire ties with the Christmas trees and put them in place so that everything is essentially in its place so now we're ready to put the alternator on so alternator mounts on this bracket and what you have are these sliding shoes basically that are used to install the alternator and what they do is they actually slide within the bracket most cases once you've taken the alternator out and pried it out this one's already back in place this one you can I'll show you see how it hangs out leaves and area there you take your hammer and open up the space so the alternator will just drop in when you tighten it up it pulls those shoes in and locks everything in place and the only two wires that you need to attach are going to be your battery feed cable and then your field wire and you can see essentially just on the back of the alternator you've only got two positions so it's kind of hard to get it wrong and the alternator obviously is going to set in this position so we're gonna hook our wiring up first and then we're gonna set the alternator in there and then just as a tip there's a lot of hardware put aside on this and there's a lot of bigger bolts as we get towards the end as far as the hanging brackets the plainer why not you'll notice that the two alternator bolts have this goldish tone they're an anodized bolt so if you're not quite sure what bolts go on the alternator look for this gold-tone on the shaft and the size of the bolt and then those will be the correct ones for the alternator so next is gonna be the AC compressor and as you can see basically you just have four bolts up top there is a locating dial here which will help you to get it set up and located now as you remember we didn't have to disconnect the AC lines this is just been sitting here waiting for us to put it back together and what I normally do is before you slide the sign you got this back left-hand corner bolt always put that on first cuz what's gonna happen is when you get the compressor here in line you're not going to be able to install this bolt because the throttle linkage is going to be in a way so before you set it in grab one your alternator bolts and it'll actually help you line up a little better because that will locate in the back hole and then you've got your dowel in the front and now we'll just drop our three remaining bolts in this one will obviously have to put in tighten up with a wrench the other three if you have compressed air you can run it in with that or just do all them with a socket and a ratchet all right so now we're gonna start putting the pulleys on so we can get the belt on now one thing we did notice when we got into it this the original tensioner was binding up the to bet the two idlers one of them felt kind of rough so we actually offered this kit we can get both the idler pulleys and the tensioner if you're gonna put a new motor in you don't need any future problems for the low-cost that you can get this kit for it's well worth putting in you don't have to deal with the belt problem so what we're going to do then is we're going to install these and then we've got to put the water pump pulley on and the power steering pump which is just a matter of flying up the pulleys put your bolts in and tighten them up but just so you know you'll see that the two idlers are of different sizes the smaller pulley is going to be mounted here so you're going to want to put the tensioner on first and then the small pulley and then your large pulley is going to be located right here and then at that point we'll put the other two on alright so here's what the pulleys look like installed like I said small and on the bottom big one up top and then you want to give a little test spin just to make sure they're seated properly ok so spins got a little bit of resistance which is good that's a nice tight bearing and then the tensioner and then you always want to look in the back and make sure that the back of this is seated flat there's a locating pin that drops in so you're gonna slide that pin in to the hole in the back side of the bracket and then just move this up until your bolt drops in tighten it up and you're good alright so next is going to be water pump pulley and power steering pulley alright before you put the power steering pulley on and I've seen it done because it can be mounted in either direction so what you're going to do is basically look at the pulley and you're going to see the imprint of the I guess I would call the triangle of the pyramid which is the surface that's going to ride on the pond the pump itself you'll see the imprint on one side on the other you won't so obviously then this is the proper side to install against the power steering pump there is a difference in the offset so if you do install it backwards the belts not gonna line up right so you want to make sure you see that imprint and then on the water pump pulley you will see where there are marks on the ball holes where the original bolts went so you just want to reuse those because this way you know everything's gonna line up right so on the water pump pulley what I like to do is I'll turn this so that I've got one threaded hole straight up so I have an orientation because once I go to slide the pulley over I can't see those we'll set that bolt right in place and it's sort of lining up and you just roll it around a little bit to let bolt lines right up slight this up over the hub put the other two on now these don't require a great amount of torque and you can actually when you go to tighten these you can actually get your hand wrapped around that pulley and be able to tighten it again look for the tripod point that straight up it aligns itself right up alright so then we just put the last remaining two bolts in and then we get everything tightened up all right so now comes the fun part we're gonna put the belt on if you didn't take a picture before he took it apart to give you an idea of how its routed this is the best way to go about it we're gonna phone basically the belt like so and we've done a sag or a loop in the center and that loop is going to go around the power steering pulley okay then we're gonna go up and over the AC compressor and we're gonna go up and over the alternator around the tensioner and at this point we're not gonna worry about that little pulley and you'll see why in a minute then we're going under that made the steering too damp the crankshaft pulley up and over power steering pulley and around this larger idler yeah some things you got a slight go to get up so what that essentially does gets everything in place now of course rib side of the belt will always be on the ribs pulleys so you have alternator AC compressor power steering pump lower deeper and tension or old ribs so you should have rib sight on there now what we do is we take our wrench now this is a different size than the original with this kit they originally you'd have a 15 millimeter here but they have stepped up to a 16 millimeter put that up and won't push it down we're simply gonna just give us enough room to slide that belt up and over the little pulley and then before you take all let allow all the tension on there just a quick feel to make sure that the belt is fully seated and all the other pulleys wet up and there you are belts in place so next step then is going to be putting the fan shroud and the fan on and your upper radiator hose alright so very important we don't want to forget the dipstick now these use a very high vacuum PCV system as well as the emission control is also incorporated on there so literally any vacuum leak can create a drivability issue on these so when I put the dipstick in we're gonna actually run a bead of black RTV right around the base of this neural this is what seats down on the block where when we insert this and this way by the time we actually get to the point where we're ready to start it this will be pretty well be setup so we know we got a good seal so that's really all we're gonna do is throw a little little black RTV on that take our finger and just run around about the thickness of that raised area tick-tick-tick to and then we're just gonna basically slide it right down the hole see your hole right there now slide right in and then you have a threaded hole right here on the side of the valve cover and you flip this up this is going to line right up with it there and then once we run that screw in there let that our TV set up we'll be all set and then we can actually put our dipstick right inside the tube all right and of course you want to plug in your AC compressor and that's your great plug connector right here you push that into you hear the click and just put this down where it's really not rubbing against anything too severely and then we just have the one wire here for the mass air flow sensor we'll put that to the side all right so now what we're going to do is we're going to put the lower shroud in for the fan there are just bay there's two clips that attach on the bottom and then two Phillips screws on each side here then they're gonna hold that lock that down and then the fan and then the upper shroud and then the actually it's going to be the lower shroud the fan and we're going to do the radiator hose one thing I want to mention on these lay the thermostat if you taking a good look right here top of the thermostat has two outlets one goes off at about a forty degree angle one points straight up they're both the same size and I have seen where somebody could actually install it with this reversed which will actually cause an overheating problem so you want to make sure that the angled outlet goes to the lower hose which goes down to the water pump and the straight up is going to go to the upper radiator hose which also attaches here and here but just keep that note so the angle to the water pump straight up to the upper radiator all right so we put our Stroud we got two Phillips screws grab the bottom we pull out make sure that those tabs on the bottom if holding it in place and we just slide the fan in and we try to get it as square as possible you do I do it just the back of my hand up against the front of the fan clutch and if you just work it real slow eventually you'll hit a spot where it'll feel like the threads will catch and then from there you can just spin it on all right so I've put the upper hose in place but I want to show you basically how it looks should look when it's installed your so you have your bleeder cap right here your joined here at that front tube upper radiator and then of course down on the thermostat clamps are in place and you want to make sure you can feel that bulb that little bulge at the end of the nipples that you attach these to and they're there so that with the clamp behind it there's no chance of it coming off it's just a little security measure they built into these so you would just want to make sure the clamp is below or behind that bulge so that you know you've got it in a proper position all right so essentially we're ready at this point we've gotta just put the top cover on which is four screws that only turn the eternal 90 degrees in there in and then we'll put the air filter in the hose in and then we can put on our final colon line which is the overflow or the vent line that goes across into the expansion tank okay actually we're gonna do is we're going to put this the vent blind on now because this cover actually goes over the top of it you see these two raised areas right here actually is the channel that this is gonna rest in kind of acts as a sort of a support we just push that on there what I would suggest is if this host feels brittle at all nodes if you can't take it and flex it like that it feels like it's gonna crack and split replace it because more unlikely it's exactly what it's going to do very soon and you certainly don't want to risk your your new engine and all your work on a relatively inexpensive hose same thing were there anything else wearable on the engine if you're gonna put the time and money put a new engine on if the old hoses feel dried out put new hoses on it I've done that with every engine I've put in new hoses new belt anything basically rubber and flexible it's not worth the risk it's worth a little extra money for the security of knowing you've got a good system in there so it around a little bit so it lines up you see the cutout on the side there's for that hose you got one hop and just turn 90 degrees and you'll actually feel the screw come to a stop when it seats in there we go and just squeeze that upper hose a little bit and pop that right in place we're pretty much assembled there and now we just need to hook up the intake tube and the air filter assembly right just to make it easier now Chris the air filter you pulled it out so you get the idea it's basically a pop in I like to do is I shoot a little silicone spray on those rubber rubber sets that that goes into it just
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the Curt Manufacturing Bolt-On Trailer Hitch Receiver LH13243 on a 2014 Range Rover Sport. Doug will show you torque specs for this Class 3, 8,000 Pound Rated Bolt-On Hitch Receiver. He will also direct a focus on customizing the lower cover panel to make room for the hitch receiver. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210.
Part # LH13243 Installing Bolt-On Towing/Trailer Hitch Receiver by Curt Manufacturing On 2014 Range Rover Sport SuperchargedHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to show you a trailer hitch that we are now carrying for the new Land Rover Sports. This is the body style that they changed over from the old L320, 2014 and up. And this is nice because this is basically custom built for that particular body style. So it's an easy bolt in application. And what you're going to get is the hitch itself. You can see this is a good heavy frame. Built very well. Good paint job. Good coverage on it. You've got hardware kit. You can see that hardware also very heavy duty. And it's got quite a good capacity to it. This is actually rated for up to an 8,000 pound trailer with 800 pound tongue weight. And it is a class 3 so it's got the 2 inch opening on it. So, now that we've shown you this and as I've said it's an easy application, we're going to show you how to install it. Now, before we begin, what I'm going to do is show you the instructions that come with this. And mostly because in the very beginning they do give you a little breakdown on the tools that you're going to need to install it. So we've pulled them out here. And essentially what we've got is a 3/8th drive torque wrench with a 10 millimeter socket. Half inch drive torque wrench. 15/16th socket. 15/16th open end combination wrench. Ratchet. Philips screw driver. And a small straight blade screw driver. And this is basically what you're going to need. And there's also a, there's a little trimming that we'll be done on one of the lower panels. And we have a dremel tool, we're going to use that, and that's actually shown in the instructions but of course you can use basically anything else that's going to cut plastic. So first step is going to be to remove this panel, which really isn't all that much. You're going to use the straight blade screw driver we were talking about. Or, if you don't have one handy, a quarter works just as well. And you can just insert it in that. Going to turn that 90 degrees to the left. And it will just pop down and pop out. And you can see the lower panel we're going to need to remove.And then all we need to do is put the upper panel on and we're ready to go. So, we've put our upper panel back in. Just remember you need to slide it up and then there's a center tab right here that's going to pop into the lower panel. And that actually will hold it all up in place. Just put your 2 screws in again. 90 degrees locks them in. And that's it. You're done. You can see very little of the hitch in the back. The majority of it being hidden up. Looks nice and clean. Still has plenty of ground clearance. So, when you're ready to install a good quality hitch on your 2014 and up Land Rover Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, discuss the installation of the bolt-on trailer hitch receiver, Part # LR019990ABP, for all late-model Land Rovers including LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Doug will give the correct torque specs that are important for the proper installation of this hitch receiver.
Part # LR019990ABP Tips for Installing the Bolt-On Trailer Hitch Receiver For All Late-Model Rovers Including LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport, Range Rover Supercharged. New - includes torque specs. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to talk about an alternative we have to the factory trailer hitch receiver. What you'll see here is this heavy bracket that's a simple bolt on operation. Will meet the same towing specs. It's not going to reduce the specifications on what you're vehicle can tow. It's a simple bolt on operation. And then once you have this, and then of course your trailer wiring harness in place you'll be ready to tow with your LR3 or your Sport. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to install it, what the proper way to install this is. And how it's going to look once it's mounted on your vehicle. All right, so before we begin we're just going to give a quick rundown on the tools you're going to need to install this. Which isn't really a whole heck of a lot. Now you'll see an impact gun. If you have access to compressed air that's great, if not you can use a long handle half inch drive ratchet. You have a 7/8ths deep socket, 3/4 inch combination wrench, 7/8th combination, a little hard blade scraper, wire brush, straight blade screw driver, and then this would be the most important tool you're going to have out of the bunch. This is a torque wrench, click type. You're going to need this to install because we have a specific torque that needs to be applied on these bolts to make sure that this is locked down properly. So if you don't have a torque wrench, I would suggest either buy one, or you could go to one of these automotive centers where they'll rent or sometimes even let you borrow a tool to do a specific job. So you want to keep that in mind because we are going to be talking about that when we bolt that up: what those specific torques are and how to set them up. So first thing we're going to do, well the first thing you'll notice, we've lowered the spare tire and that's going to give us better access to the bolt in the back here. So we'll take a straight blade screw driver. And you can actually pop these off by using a side of a quarter. Just pull that down. And that comes down out of the way. Now you'll see we all ready have the trailer harness installed, so now we're just going to be adding the hitch.You got 4 clips on top. And they just run up in those slots. I'm going to run the...Take the 2 retainers, you should see basically the slot is going to be straight up and down. And that will pop right into the, into the nuts. We'll close that down and this way you only really need to take this off, is to plug in your trailer wiring connection. And that's it. We're all set. Ready to go. We'll drop it down. Spare tire back up in place, ready to go. So when you're ready to order your bolt on trailer hitch receiver you can contact anyone of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and do your order online. And if you like our how to videos, I would suggest click on this link and you can subscribe to our YouTube site and watch all our videos. So for now we thank you, and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install ARP Engine Head Bolts using Kit ARP4301 on a 4.0/4.6 Engine.
ARP Head Stud Kits Replacing Standard Engine Head Bolts with The ARP Engine Head Stud Set On 4.0/4.6 EnginesHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on an option you have if you're building your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6. And essentially what it is is a replacement set of studs instead of head bolts. Now you know a lot of the newer engines have the torque to yield head bolts, which you see a lot on now aluminum block, aluminum head engines. You're dealing with a high expansion and contraction rate which is why you need that style. But you find if you look, is you see a racing engine torn down, a lot of them will have studs. And studs are a little bit more secure. They cost a little bit more, but they definitely do a better job. So we're just going to give you a brief run down on what you would need to do to install the kit. Now we do stock for these. That's the ARP4301. Great kit. Comes with the studs. Comes with the nuts. And comes with the washers. So, we're going to demonstrate this on a nice new block. But you would normally do your prep work. Of course, clean out each hole, make sure your threads are clean. Run a chaser down there. Make sure they're all cleaned and lubed. With the studs though, what you're going to do is instead of putting a dab of oil on that you would normally do on the head bolts, because the studs are inserted and they're going to be stationary, you're going to take just a dab of thread lock. You can buy these at any parts center. And it just takes 1 or 2 drops. And you just want it so it locks the stud in place. Now you'll notice the nut is designed to be a 12 point. You would use a 5/8ths or a 16 millimeter 12 point socket. You want one in half inch drive so that you can torque these down once you get it together. And you'll also notice that you have a coarse thread on one side, fine thread on the other. The coarse thread obvious goes into the block. The fine thread remains up top for the nut. Now you'll also have 6 studs that will be longer than these and they are going to be in the top 3 center holes. You'll notice that when you take it apart, your head bolts. You're going to have 3 larger than the rest of them on each side. So, make sure you keep note of that when you go to put this together. So essentially all you're really going to need to do, you can do this one of two ways as far as installing it. You can run a nut down on one of the studs. We'll take a little bit of the. And just say you'll only need like a little drop. That's all it takes. We'll run the stud into the whole. And we're just going to bottom it out until it comes to the shaft of the stud so that it will stop at the point. And you'll notice that I don't even need a driver. In some cases you may. You don't need to have them real tight. You just need to snug them. And you can do that with either a stud puller or stud remover which will slide down over the stud and look like a socket. Or just use the socket itself on the nut. And that's all you really need to do. Just lock that in. We'll run the nut out. Let me get a ratchet and we'll put that on there.Reason I do that because most of your larger half inch won't go down or are not accurate at a 35 foot pound reading, where the smaller 3/8ths drive is. So we'll do the same thing as we did on the head. Basically we're going to start here. Go to this. Go to this. And go to this. And then one more time down the row just to make sure everything's squarely torqued. Alright. So here's the finished product. You can see studs in place. Nice neat appearance. Plus the fact is it's definitely a more secure set up than the torque to yield head bolts. So, this is something you might want to recommend, I would recommend that you do if you're doing a head gasket change over. Or you're doing an engine rebuild. You want to hold onto the vehicle for a while. This is the route to go. It's really worth the extra money. So when you're ready to do this to your 4.0 or 4.6 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Learn the differences between BOSCH and GEMS V8 engines found in Land Rover Discovery I, Discovery II and Range Rover models. Jim shows how to determine whether your Land Rover is equipped with an ACE suspension. The video also shows how to change a pollen filter on a Range Rover and highlights key vehicle components.
Bosch Engine vs. GEMS Engine: An Under-Hood Tour of the Discovery Series II and Range Rover P38Good morning. It's Jim from Atlantic British again. I take care of the technical support here. We have a little motto around here if you've got questions, we've got answers. Today we're going to explain the difference between a GEMS engine in your Range Rover and a Bosch engine. We get people wondering about this all the time. We're going to start with 1998 Range Rover here. This engine is the GEMS engine. The easiest thing to figure out is you'll see this center plenum. It'll say either 4.0 or 4.6 on them. That's the easiest way to tell. Now over next to us here, we've got a Discovery 2. If you look under the hood of this one you can see it's marketable different. It's commonly called what I call the plumber's nightmare. And that's basically the easiest way to tell the difference between the 2 engines, is they really look difference now that you see a picture. While we're here at the Discovery 2 another question we always get is 'Does my car have the ACE suspension in it?' Again, the easiest way to tell, now this car does not have it. Find your power steering reservoir which is right here. It has one cap. If this truck did have ACE, the reservoir would look like this one, with 2 caps on it. It's the simplest way. There's also a picture on our website showing the actually hydraulic rams underneath the front end. While we're here we can give you a quick tour of under the hood. Over here would be your brake master cylinder. This is the fabulous unit where you get the 3 Amigos from. This is the server for the ABS unit. If we pan over to the other side of the truck, this would be your reservoir for the coolant. And right here is the underhood fuse box. Which comes off. Right there. And find all your fuses in there. We've got both cars together. We'll go back over to the 4.0. Another question we normally get is about pollen filters, which you should do I would say maybe every 15,00 miles. They're located in these compartments just at the base of the windshield. They have these covers on them held with 2 screws. You remove the screws. Get that out of the way. And it just pulls out. As you can see Nancy here has nice clean ones. When you're all done just slide it back in, put the cover back on and replace the screws. While we're at this truck, same thing. Here's your coolant tank. Next to that is the fuse box. These trucks have problems with these fuse boxes. As you can see these relays get discolored from overheating. Especially these 2 fronts ones that go with the air conditioner. And a little hint: If these relays get hot, take a look at your pollen filters because usually it overworks the blower motors. This would be your windshield washer solvent. And moving over here this is power steering fluid. Under here is your air filter. And back here is the reservoir for the brake cylinder. Contained in this box here is the air compressor for the air suspension. This car has the air suspension removed so I don't think it's in there anymore. Here at Atlantic British we carry lot's of parts for both of these cars. You can contact us on either RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Contact our sales department. They're very knowledgeable on both of these cars. And another good idea - you can probably follow us on YouTube. Go to our website and you can sign up for the YouTube videos. You'll get notifications when a new one comes out.
Watch Jim explain the differences between two popular fuel pumps (with or without pressure sensor) for Land Rover Discovery Series 2, 1999 - 2004 models.
Which Fuel Pump Does My Discovery Series II Have? With Or Without Pressure SensorHi it's Jim here at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. We've had a few people call in with a Discovery 2 needing a fuel pump. There's no way from the serial number you can tell which style pump you have in your truck. There's only 2. The easiest way to find out, in the back off your truck, below the carpeting, there's an access panel. There's like 6 screws. Just take it out and you can see the top of your pump. When you call to order your pump here at Atlantic British, 1-800-533-2210, your sales person is going to ask you if you have secondary air or a pressure sensor. The easiest way to differentiate is the pressure sensor. I have the 1 pump here. When you look down you're going to see 2 connections. This one here and this black one. It will have a rubber hose going to it. This is the pump with the pressure sensor. Down here I have the other pump. When you look in you'll see it does not have the pressure sensor. So they're going ask you if you have the pressure sensor or not. That's the easiest way to tell. Can't really do it by the serial number. Can check us out at RoverParts.com. Actually you look up the fuel pumps. There's pretty good pictures there. Not quite as explicit as we're being here. But give us a call 1-800-533-2210. Ask the sales staff that you're looking for a fuel pump for your Disco 2. And he's going to ask you if you have the pressure sensor or not. It's the only clear way to get you the right part. And at Atlantic British we strive to get you the right part.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the difference between front brakes installed on a Range Rover Sport Supercharged, 2006-2009 that is equipped with the Brembo brake calipers, as opposed to those front brakes on a Non-Supercharged Sport or LR3. Doug will then show you the steps involved in removing and replacing with new brake pads and rotors (and new brake pad sensor).
Installing Front Brake Pads & Rotors on Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009 equipped with Brembo BrakesHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to change the front brakes on your 2006 to 2009 Sport with Supercharged, which will be equipped with the Brembo Brakes. Now there are some differences obviously between the Brembos and the regular front brakes you find on the non Supercharged or on the LR3. And first and most obvious is the size of the caliper. This is twice the size of the front caliper that you're going to find on the normal vehicle. Or a non Supercharged. One of the other differences is that this caliper is mounted directly to the knuckle in the back, there is no separate mounting bracket. This is a fixed caliper. It uses 4 pistons in there to compress these pads to make contact with the rotor. You'll see the rotor is a little bigger than what you find on the standard size Sport and LR3. Also take into account, and in most cases with the Brembos, you'll probably be replacing these a little more often or sooner than you would with the regular brakes. They have a very high friction capability, and because of that you give up a little bit of the wear factor. So especially if you have the Supercharged, and more than likely you like to play with it a little bit, so you're going to wear them out a little faster. So you want to check them on a regular basis. So essentially we're going to start off with, we're going to remove these 2 pins.Grommets in place. You just take a small ballpeen and just simply tap that outer tab right into place. So now you're back in. You're all set. So we replaced the brake pads, rotors. We've installed our pad sensor. We've shown you how to route it up in through here. So when you're ready to do this on your Sport or LR3 just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Ever wonder which vehicle your favorite Land Rover Expert calls his own? Watch Jim as he introduces you to his beloved 1971 Land Rover Series IIA. Stay tuned at the end of the video for a peek at our Land Rover Series chassis, in stock and ready to ship to your home or shop!
What does that guy drive? Jim's 1971 Series IIA Land Rover Frame Over Kits for Series and DefendersHi it's Jim at Atlantic British. By now you've probably seen me in a quite a few videos. As you know, I do the technical support here. You may be sitting there going What the heck does that guy drive? Here it is. I got a 1971 IIA Series Land Rover. It's a cool car. You drive around, people give you a thumbs up. It's easy to work on. I just know a place where I can get parts. Ooh, that's here. You can see, it's very basic car, I mean it's doctari, tires on the hood. It's just like really cool to tool around in. I'll be honest, I don't drive around in it every day. It's not that comfortable, but it's a really cool car. We carry almost everything for this truck. This truck actually has a replaced frame, a galvanized frame in it. It's a big thing we sell here. Made in the UK by Rover chassis specialists, Richards. Hot-dipped galvanized for long-lasting durability and rust resistance. Can be used for right or left-hand drive vehicles. We offer a complete frame-over kit for 88" Series. "Restorer's Discount" program. Get 10% off all build-out related parts for 1 year from purchase.
How to remove the side mirror on your Discovery II. Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to remove the side mirror on a Discovery Series II vehicle. Jim also provides some tips on how to best replace the glass mirror.
Outside Rearview Mirror Replacement For Discovery Series IIGood morning it's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support, sometimes humor around here. This morning we're going to take the left front mirror of this Discovery 2. It's fairly simple. The first tool you need is like an interior panel removal. You can actually buy them though us. Carefully remove - they call this a cheater place - with your panel tool. Comes right off. It's held by 1 pin. 2 little notches on the bottom. You find some insulation. Then you want to release this electrical connector. You'll see there's a pin back here. You would push it back with a small screw driver. And unplug it. And take another socket - I believe this one is 7 millimeters. Loosen up the 3 screws. When you get to the 3rd one, it's a good idea probably to grab that mirror on the outside, because we all know what's going to happen. And just pull it off. The reason you're probably taking this off is either you clipped it off on your garage door or the glass has gotten clipped or broken. We sell replacement glass here. My recommendation is take the mirror off. Take the new glass and the mirror to a glass shop and let them do the installation because it gets a little tricky. I have a tough time with it, I'll admit it. Once you get your new mirror or your new glass in there. Just get your bracket in hand. Push the electrical piece through. They'll be some fumbling involved here. Just get that started with your fingers. Get your couple threads so you can let go of it and line it up. Get the other bolts. And you'll snap this together. Slide it back down on the little lock. Put your insulation piece back in there. This is important because if it is not there you're going to get a wind noise. And this just kind of snaps back into place. Just like that. This basically is how most Land Rovers are. Some of the later models you do have to pull the doors panel off. Gets a little more involved. You can get your replacement mirror or replacement glass here at Atlantic British either by going on the website at RoverParts.com or give us a call 1-800-533-2210. Get a hold of our sales staff. They'll get the correct mirror for your car or the replacement glass. Another thing on the replacement glass. There is a little clip mechanism behind there. I would get that also. And don't forget to follow us on YouTube.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential and transfer case service ( using complete kit # DTCM100A ) on a 2005-2009 LR3. For non-electronic (open) differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100A and for electronic differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100B. In this video, Doug explains the difference between electronic and open (non-electronic) differentials, and will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential and transfer case, and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 75,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs.
Kit #: DTCM100A / DTCM100B Performing Differential & Transfer Case Service on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to do is touch base on the transfer case and differential drain and refill kit we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy program. Now what you'll be receiving is enough fluids to change the fluid in your front and rear differential and your transfer case. Now in the LR3, that came with both a open or standard differential or it came with an electronic locking differential. And you should be able to get the information off the original window sticker or you can even tell by looking underneath the vehicle. You'll see the difference with the differential has a motor, an electronic motor attached to it. You'll see some wiring. You'll see a harness going to the rear diff. If it does not have that harness you have whats called the open differential. So vehicles equipped with open differential you're going to get 3 bottles of gear oil for the differentials, you're going to get 2 bottles of transfer case fluid and new drain plugs and fill plugs with seals so that when you are done and you put the new plugs in there you'll see that they are teflon coated and sealer coated, you'll end up so you don't get any leaks out of the system. If you have the electronic, then you're going to use the second kit which will have 2 bottles of differential gear oil, 2 bottles of transfer case gear oil and 2 bottles of electronic locking rear diff fluid. And be careful you want to make sure that you've checked and you know which rear differential you have so you use the proper fluid. Now this is a maintenance that even Land Rover recommends. You should do this every 75,000 miles. This is a sheet that you can go on our website and you can copy and download for your own information. You'll see everything listed on both kits. And you'll also see the listing on it which will tell you whether it is for the open diff or for the electronic rear. So we're going to take a minute and we're going to put an LR3 up in the air and we're going to show you the location of your drain and your fill plugs. Alright, so now we're ready to change our fluid in our front and rear differentials and our transfer case. Now we've already removed the steel pan underneath the engine oil pan. It's just 10 bolts, 13 millimeter heads, all the way around. Drop the pan and we move that out of the way. And what that does is exposes the drain plug right here for the front differential. Now this will basically be between frame rails, and at the very bottom, a good size plug. And when you're done draining - and that's all you're basically going to do. You're going to take your plug out. Let it drain. Give it a little bit of time because it is relatively thick fluid. So bring it down to a point when you just get a drip every now and then. You know you've gotten as much as you can out of there. Now the fill plug is a little awkward to get at. You've got your support plate on the outside, or driver side of the differential. And then you have your 2 attaching bolts here at the bottom. Above the bolt, in the front of the 2, and just above the bracket, there's a small allen head plug that's threaded into the case, that's going to be your fill plug. Probably the best way to get up into that is if you have a suction gun and put a smaller hose on the end of that or attach a smaller hose because it's a relatively small hole. It's only maybe 9 to 10 millimeters. So that's the best way to refill it. So that will take care of the front diff. Again that's just a drain and refill. Now as we move down to the transfer case, you'll find your drain plug directly on the bottom. Again this is an allen. I think this is, I believe this is an 8 millimeter allen. Take this out, let it drain, let it get down to the last drop. Then when you're ready to refill, you put that plug back in, and then there's your fill plug right there. Now again I'm going to recommend - you have listed capacities for all these fluids. Don't assume that the bottom of that fill is going to be the proper height. Always check in your book, look at your capacities. Fill it to that amount and that amount only. Now we're going to move back to the rear axle. We're at the rear axle now. Now this is what they call an open diff. It's just a standard rear differential. If this was the electronic locking there would be an additional motor on the side. You would see a small wiring harness going to it. That's the easiest way to identify whether you have the locking or non locking rear axle. Now regardless of which one it is you still have just drain plug on the bottom. We're going to let as much fluid drain out of there as possible. And then your fill plug will be up higher. It's a smaller plug, towards the back of the differential case on the passenger side. And again, fill to the capacity recommended in the book. Don't just assume that the bottom line is going to be the proper fill height. And that's pretty much it. It's going to change over those fluids. Now it is a recommended service because over a period of time. Now the differentials and the transfer case are all vented. And because they are vented you can get condensation build up in the system. They're not sealed from humidity. So water in those systems, eventually if they should build up can absolutely damage bearings and definitely the performance of those components. Do the regular maintenance now, save yourself a lot of money in the long run. So, when you're ready to change over your differential fluid and your transfer case, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen, they'll be happy to help you, at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he walks you through the intuitive iCarSoft LR II system. This video showcase the V.1.0 model tool. The latest version is the V.2.0 Diagnostic Tool and is very similar in form and function to V.1.0 (with a few more functions, bells and whistles!) iCarsoft Multi-system Scanners support full system diagnosis for Land Rover vehicles. They enable technicians and Do-It-Yourselfers to accurately diagnose complex problems. Multi-system Scanner supports full system diagnosis. It’s a powerful diagnostic tool.
An Overview Using The LR II Multi-System Diagnostic Tool by iCarsoft (LR-II) For Land Rover & Jaguar Vehicles (2nd Generation)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going to do is touch base on a diagnostic tool that we carry in our line. The iCarSoft LR II. Now this is a tool that's come out that's specifically designed to access Land Rover modules, and not just your OBD II, but can also get into ABS, your air suspension if you have the later models that are equipped with that, actually a number of modules depending on which vehicle or which Land Rover you're working on. So just to give you basics, we've got this unit plugged in. This is the screen that's going to come up. And this is with the ignition key on. You're going to let the vehicle go through its self test. Most of the newer Land Rover vehicles go through an initial self test. Only takes a few seconds. We're plugged in, and we have power. Now before we get into the modules, I just want to give you an idea of some of the other capabilities of this. If we scroll over to settings, you have an up down side to side arrows. We'll hit okay. And with this you can change the language, the unit of measure, and even turn the beeper on and off. So say we go to unit of measure, and hit okay. You can either go to metric or imperial. We can back out of that. As far as language you can see it actually will translate to a number of different languages. So we're going to leave it up in English. And we hit escape to back out. And we do that again. Now on the help side, this gives you a lot of information. First line is going to tell you initially give you the location of your diagnostic link connector is located. Then below it we have the DTC library, which you can type in the codes that you're getting and it will give you the definition. It will look that unit up. We'll hit escape. What it will also do is explain abbreviations. So when you get into some of the live data, you're going to see explanations or abbreviations. So say we go to ECT, we want to find out what that is. It will tell you it's a coolant temperature sensor. It will tell you how it's normally displayed. Here it will run from minus 40 to 215 degrees Celsius. Or minus 40 to 419 degrees Fahrenheit. And again it will tell you many of the diesel engines, they don't include this sensor. So, again it gives you good information on what you're looking at. So we'll hit escape and back out of that. And we'll hit that again. Tool information is simply going to tell you what software you have in here. Serial Number of the unit. Registration Code which you may need later on if you're going to do updates. Which you can do on these without having to send these in.Heating and ventilation. Basically run on down the line. So when you just get to the one that you're looking for. Let's look at transfer box. Again we'll look at, okay. And essentially this is going to give you versions. We'll scroll down to data stream. And basically just on that particular transfer case there's 4 different functions you can view. So this gives you an idea essentially of what this is capable of doing. This does not do any programming. But it will help you keep you from chasing your tail trying to figure out what's going on with your Land Rover without having to spend a lot of money on parts that maybe you don't really need. This tool will at least help you work your way in and pinpoint what the problem is, or at least give you the fault codes which, based on the technology on today's vehicles you need to, otherwise you'll just be chasing your tail trying to figure out what's wrong with them. So, when you're in the market for a reader, and you'll find that this is very reasonably priced compared to what it will do, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to set you up with one of these. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the Differential and Transfer Case Service (using our complete Kit # DTCM100A ) on a 2006-2009 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. For non-electronic (open) differential vehicles use Kit # DTCM300A and for electronic differential vehicles use Kit # DTCM300B .
In this video, Doug explains the difference between electronic and open (non-electronic) differentials and will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential, transfer case and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 60,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Questions about these kits or service? Call us toll free 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Kit #: DTCM300A / DTCM300B Performing Differential and Transfer Case Service on Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And for this video we're going to introduce you to the transfer case and differential fluid change kit that we have available through our maintenance and repair system. Now, what we have available, and we have 2 different kits available depending on whether your vehicle, actually your 2006 Sport, either Supercharged or non Supercharged whether you have the electronic or the non electronic rear differential. And we will be posting a video that will show you how to identify whether or not your vehicle is equipped. Generally if you have the Supercharged, most likely you also have the electronic differential. If you have a non Supercharged you'll need to actually get under the vehicle and look. Refer to our video that will show you how to identify it. Now this is a service recommended every 60,000 miles. Just like any other petroleum based fluid they do break down over a period of time. They will also hold moisture from condensation and dirt so you want to get that out of there on a regular basis and have it changed over. Now the 2 kits that we have available. We're showing the kit right here for the non electric differential. The only difference between the 2 is you will be getting a different set of plugs as that differential has different size plugs for the changeover. Other than that the kits will remain the same. Now in a minute we'll have this vehicle in the air and we're going to show you the location of both the drain plugs and the fill plugs for the transfer case and both differentials.You should do this change on a regular basis. So again, we thank you for watching. And when you're ready to change over the fluids on your Land Rover or Range Rover call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
Jim makes it easy for you to tell if you have a Range Rover Sport or a Full Size Range Rover.
Identifying the Range Rover Sport or Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Model Year 2006 - 2009Hi it's Jim. I take care of the technical support here at Atlantic British. Here we are in sunny Upstate New York. Hard to believe. Today we are just going to do a quick walk around on a Range Rover Sport. A lot of times people call in they say to our sales staff 'I've got a Range Rover.' They're not quite sure if it is a full size or a Sport. This is a Range Rover Sport. You can tell by the different grill. You can see it says Range Rover here. There is no Sport on it at all. Telltale thing is the headlights, over here the way this grill is is totally different than the car. I'm going to raise the hood and we'll look under the hood. Sport comes with 2 engines. This one here happens to be the Supercharged, the loaded one, nice truck. Or you can get it with just the 4.4 engine, the same engine that is in the LR3. We're going to walk down the side now. As you can see it is about the same size as an LR3. While I'm here I'm going to open the door and I'll point out where the OBD II plug is if you have faults. It's right up under the dash, you can feel it right there at the end of my finger. Very easy to find and plug in to get your fault codes and whatever you want to do. Walking down the side of the truck, like I said, it's about the same size as an LR3. In the back, I think we went over the tail gate once. The 2 piece thing, it's very unique. Here's where it says Sport, if you're not sure what you have. Range Rover Sport. That's about it. It's the easiest way to tell this car from the full size Range Rover. Here at Atlantic British we stock most parts for this car if not all. Or for Any Land Rover as a matter of fact. Check us out at RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Talk to the sales staff, they'll hook you up with any part you need for your Land Rover.
Watch Jim as he gives an overview of the Land Rover head gasket components. Jim explains how to know if you have blown a head gasket on your Land Rover, and also provides useful tips on how to repair a leaky head gasket to get your engine back running efficiently.
Did you blow a head gasket?Overview of Head Gasket Kits and Head Bolt Kits for Land Rover and Range RoversHi, it's Jim. I do the technical support here at Atlantic British. This morning we thought we'd have a little discussion on head gaskets. What can go wrong with them. Where they fail. Sitting here on our bench I've got a head that came off a Land Rover V8 engine. This pertains to 1987 up to about 2004. Usually when head gaskets go, they fail in this area here, which is the water jacket. I've also seen them fail right here on combustion chamber, it actually leaks exhaust out the sides. Sounds like a leaky exhaust pipe, but it is usually a failed head gasket. Early on, up to about 1994, the head gasket was just a shim type metal gasket. Around 1994 Land Rover decided that the better seal was this new style composite head gasket. With this gasket, it takes special head bolts. They're what they call a stretch or angle torque head bolt. They have to be replaced every time you do the gasket, because they get torqued special. First you just tighten them up to about 15 pounds, and then you twist them 90 degrees and then another 90 degrees. The bolt actually acts like a little spring when the engine expands and contracts. The composite head gasket, if you get a good quality like we sell here at Atlantic British, I believe the brand is Elring, they're always marked with the word top, so you know where to put it on the car. If you can't find the top, usually this red sealer is facing you, and you put the head down on top of it. To find out if you have a head gasket problem, the obvious thing is you're going to see water dripping underneath your truck. What you need to do is get somebody to pressure test it, see where it is coming out. Like I said, the usually area are the ends of the head. Another way they can fail is you'll get combustion getting into the cooling system and it builds too much pressure. You need special test equipment - there is a dye you can put in a sample of the cooling that will actually change colors. If you have all that problem going on, it's a pretty complicated repair. You have to be a very good do-it-yourselfer with a lot of tools, or it may be better just to take it to someone who has done it before. At Atlantic British we carry all the parts you need to do a head gasket job. Shown here on the bench is one of our complete engine kits. In the kit you get the head gaskets, which come in a sealed envelope, a lot of miscellaneous seals for the intake manifold, this is the valley gasket, these are the valve cover gaskets. Also don't forget you need to buy the bolts. I believe we stock a complete kit with the gaskets and the bolts. Also included with the gasket, you get this little piece of paper that shows you the correct procedure to tighten up the head. If you don't follow this procedure it won't seal right, or you can actually warp the head and the gasket will fail in short order. You can order your parts here at Atlantic British either on RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Our sales staff has handled this situation many times. They know exactly what you need, they know exactly what's going on. Another point, I don't know is other companies do this, when you do order online your order actually gets checked by a real person. They'll look and see what you're ordering, what you've ordered and what you need, and if there is a question about it we'll actually call you and say, We saw you order this. You may need something else besides what you're doing. That's just part of the full service we do here at Atlantic British. Check out your head gasket, and maybe take it to a pro and get it fixed.
Watch Doug present an overview of what is under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size L322, 2006 - 2009, with a 4.2 Supercharged engine. He'll also show you the locations of most of your fluid fill points and other items of interest. This is the same as the 4.4 naturally-aspirated engine. Doug shows you how to reposition the hood in the full upright position in order to gain better access to the systems under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us using our live chat.
Under Hood Tour Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationAlright, so what we have here is a 2006 Full Size Range Rover. The L322. This has got the 4.2 Supercharged engine. The locations of most of your fluids and your items of interest under the hood are going to be basically the same whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated. So essentially what we're going to do is start in the back passenger corner. You have the battery box. And you'll find the battery is tucked in there pretty good. And these are a good size battery. And we'll show you a little trick in a little while on how you can reposition the hood so you can have easier access to items in the back. Next is going to be your cool box. In here is going to be most of your major modules. Your PCM, transmission control module, transfer case module. And this actually has a cooling fan similar to what you have on your PC to keep your box down at a certain temperature. This is actually in a way climate controlled to keep the moisture level and condensation and all that down from inside the box. Then you have your coolant overflow reservoir with the bleeder cap. This is where you're going to watch your coolant levels. On the side, on this side where I am looking down there is actually a level stripe on the tank so that you can watch and maintain your coolant level. This is just a crossover tube for your air conditioning. This is your power steering fluid. And you essentially have the same thing. You have a level marker towards the front, but with a flashlight you can actually get a better idea. Always check this with a flashlight and check your level. And it also gives you a better idea on the condition of your fluid. Should the fluid turn a dark color, a dark black or whatever, this can be flushed and refreshed with fresh fluid. And you should do it. Just like any petroleum based fluid it should be done on a regular basis. Your washer fluid with the vent. Your air filter box. Your oil level dip stick. Now you'll notice an O ring on here. These systems have a negative pressure system inside the crank case to keep the crank case ventilated. So it's actually important on these O rings on both the filler cap and the dip stick stay maintained. This is your ABS control module, both the hydraulic and electronic. Your lines. You'll see these 2 large caps on both sides which are just simply covers on for the top of your air suspension struts. And then in the rear compartment is going to be your brake master cylinder, which also has a level marker on it. So these are all your points that you'll want to check on a regular basis. You always want to check your fluids so in case you pick up a leak or something you have an idea of what youre losing. Now, what we'll do is we'll show you how to access and remove this engine cover. You'll notice that the back quarter of it disappears underneath this panel, and so do the 2 rear screws that hold it down. This upper plenum, which is part of the heating system and also contains the pollen filter, which on another video we'll show you how to replace. You can remove this with just simply removing 2 bolts and this upper weather strip. And we're going to show you how. This simply pulls up and removes right off of a pinch well.Now we just bring this straight up. And you'll see this thin tab right here. I'll swing it out of the way so you get a better view of that. Just a slight tab with a hole in it. You're just going to swing that down. The hole lines up with this pin that's built into the hinge. And then just let it relax. Now the hood is almost in a full straight up vertical. Your cover and your plenum is out of the way. And this gives you very easy access to the top of the engine. So, that's basically our tour. We're going to show you in other videos how to change the different filters and other maintenance items on this. So, feel free to look through the other videos for any ideas or any information you need to work on your Full Size Range Rover.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, install the cylinder head used on a 5.0 Liter 2012 Land Rover LR4. Gareth also covers the 4 stages of torque specs for installation.
Today we're going to be doing a reinstall of a cylinder head on a five liter LR4 vehicle. The vehicle's age is a 2012. This is the cylinder head we took and removed off of the engine due to severe mechanical damage due to the timing jumping. It bent all the valves in this cylinder head. It's been to the machine shop now returned to us and my job is to reinstall it back on the engine and ensure we get the timing correct and up and running again. We're just showing you the head on the bench right now. The exhaust manifold has been refitted. I'm gonna be reinstalling it. You'll see it probably next when it's actually installed on the engine as it's quite a heavy unit. Sometimes it can take two people to actually put the head back on the car with the exhaust manifold on because it's kind of hefty as it were. As you see the cams are removed at this time. That is because the cylinder head bolts go through the cam carriers and the bearings go on top once the cams re-installed. Of course we can't put the head on and turn it down with the cams in it. We'll do all of that and I'll go through the process of tightening sequence and the two different types of cylinder head bolts that you may possibly have on your engine. Okay so we have the cylinder head mounted to the engine at this point. It's mounted with the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head otherwise you'll never get to get the manifold mounted with the head already mounted on it. There's ten cylinder head bolts. It's an M10 cylinder head bolt. It's a stretch bolt. There is two different types of cylinder head bolts - there's an M11. There is difference in length of about two or three millimeters and different in shape also. I've actually already tightened three, well, just run three bolts down. I'm gonna run the rest down until they're all mated to the cylinder head surface and then we're going to start with the cylinder head tightening sequence. As you can see I've printed out the sheet here. Starting in the middle of the cylinder head one, two, three, four, working around the clock. The first stage of tightening is at 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meter. Third-stage 90 degrees, the last stage, stage four 120 degrees. Right so now I'm gonna start off the first round of torque tightening. The torque wrench is set, I believe it was 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters. I'm going to start at the middle - number one and then literally two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten and we'll let it settle for a minute and then start the second round at 35 Newton meters and then we'll start the torque angle procedure. So I'm at the stage where we're gonna torque to 90 degrees. My degree wheel on the tool locked in place, started, zero it out every time. I'm going to turn to 90 degrees. It's pretty straightforward job. Run it down to the first 90. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then I'm gonna run it down to the second, final stage of stretch which is 120 degrees and we'll take off again when we get to the 120. Start with the 90 right now. Now we have 90 degrees. Take the tool out, start on the next bolt and keep going round in the clockwise manner that it requests in the workshop manual. Okay, so the first stage of the stretch bolts was 90. I've covered all ten. I'm gonna start the last and second stage of 120 degrees and video a couple. I'll go through the rest and we'll start off again when we're about to mount the camshafts. There's the first one at 120 I'm gonna take it out and move it to the next stop, step. So all 10 cylinder head bolts have been tightened down to torque spec. We have the tool for the cylinder head bolts. It's kind of got a long shank on it. It is not quite a Torx bit. It's a special order. We carry them in stock here. It comes with the nylon sheath to stop any damage to the cylinder head especially when you're cranking on it. Literally sits like that. Okay so now the cylinder head bolts are tightened. We can install the camshafts. They're quite definable from side to side intake and exhaust and exhaust here intake here. As you can see it's got the extra hurt lobes on it for the variable, the high lift on the intakes. I'm just going to mount them in loosely for now. Get the cam caps and tighten them down. Of course you can't talk the head until the cams are out as you can see them install through underneath the carriers for the bearings of the camshafts. So I'll install these loosely, put the caps on and we'll torque them down to spec. So I'm gonna run the bolts all the way down till they seat. Just initial contact and then I'm gonna start to tighten them down evenly right the way across the camshaft so we don't have any issues of a tight cam or anything and take a quick break. I've got to get the specs for torquing of these screws and we'll be back. Okay so both the cams are installed. They are pinched, not torque tightened yet. They're just pinched down into place. I loaded the cams in the head so that they were as close as they could be to being timed up. After I torque them I'm gonna turn the cams manually, put the cam locks in and then I'm gonna start on the install of all the timing chains, tensioners and guides. We've been through that before but we can go over it again. The main thing was to show install of the cylinder head, torquing the head bolts, torquing in the new cam well, the reinstalling of the cams and the cam caps. I'll go ahead and run up to the office area and pick up the torque specs for these and then we'll be back and do a quick torque sequence of the camshafts. Okay so the torque spec settings for these bearing cap screws are 11 Newton meters which is 8 pounds feet, and about 97 pounds inches. The sequence one, two, three, four, five. Same on the exhaust caps, same torque specs. So I'm gonna torque those down and then turn the cam so I can put the cam timing lock tools into position and then start building up the timing gears, put the variators on, put the chains on and time up the engine. [inaudible] The back ones are a little bit awkward to see and get to. The front ones are easier to see and get to. 11. 11. A fraction over 12. A little bit more difficult to see these back ones. 11. All set. So camshafts are all torque tightened to spec. Next thing I'm going to do is turn them, put the cam locks in, and again, like I say, start on timing up the cams. That's pretty good. This is gonna be the awkward one to get to. A little bit horizontal. Okay so we just wanted to give you an idea of torquing with cylinder heads, with the engine installed. That cylinder head I mounted a little bit prior of course. You didn't actually see that. It's a little awkward, especially with the extra weight of the exhaust manifold on it but it can be done. The torque specs again 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters, 90 degrees, 120 degrees. Pretty straightforward. The cams are in and mounted, torqued to 11 Newton meters starting with the front bearing caps working your way back. I've actually already put in the cam lock so the cams are timed, ready for the timing chains and variators to be installed. That's about all we have - mounting and installing the cylinder head. Pretty straightforward.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, introduce the Lynx Diagnostic System for Land Rovers and Range Rovers. In this video overview, Doug highlights the capabilities of this comprehensive tool, which provides a number of programming and specialty functions specific to Land Rover models that you won't find with less comprehensive OBDII code readers. To repair and maintain late model Land Rovers, you need a powerful diagnostic system that communicates with modern vehicle chip-based systems. Lynx offers the best comprehensive solution at a value price! The base Lynx model is our part # DA6430 and the Lynx Pro model is # DA6431 .
Introducing LYNX Diagnostics Interface: An Overview - Using The Diagnostic System with RoversHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to introduce to you a new diagnostic tool that we're adding to our line called the Lynx. Lynx is a diagnostic tool that can be made available to read just about any Land Rover across the board, or a single model. Watch you get with the Lynx is the interface component that will connect your vehicle through this interface to a PC / Windows computer. You can use a laptop, regular PC desktop or even any of the newer tablets, as long as they're Windows based. You get a carry case, so you can keep all your components safe. You get a zip drive where you would download the software so that you can put Lynx on your computer. And also your connecting cable that will connect the interface to your PC. Now essentially what this will do is, this can be set up for either a single model, which comes with the unit when you purchase it online. But you can also add other models on should you have more than 1 Land Rover or are looking to upgrade in the near future you can add that vehicle to the Lynx. We also have a Pro model which will encompass all the Land Rover models going all the way back to the Classic and the Discover 1s. So this will give you good access to them. Now some of the advantages to this as opposed to a small handheld is one, obviously is you can put this on a bigger screen. By doing so you can put multiple readings up on that screen and be able to view them all at once. And we're going to show you very shortly how you can do that. Now you can also use the PC to store this data if you wanted to save it and go back at a later time and be able to review it, you can do so both on the Lynx or even right on your PC. So there's a lot of advantages to this as well. Plus the fact that with the Lynx it's much easier if you need to take a vehicle out on a road test and you're looking at your live data, you have a rider with you that can monitor all this. And with the bigger screen it's much easier to read, especially when the vehicle's in motion. So all that has its advantages over the handheld.Now you can either get the Lynx unlocked for just the particular vehicle that you own, say a Discovery 2 or an L322, or if you want to look at the Pro version, if you're a shop and you're looking for a tool that will basically cover the whole line, you can go with the Pro version on this. So, this is the Lynx. This is something fairly new. I've had a chance to work with this and I find that this tool will get into just about everything you will need to properly diagnose any of these Land Rovers. So when you're ready for a Lynx, or you're ready for a diagnostic tool so that you can do your own repairs, or if you're a shop looking to be able to have better access to the functions of a Land Rover, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen, 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
As a Land Rover owner, are you confused over terms like "ACE", "DSC" or "Vehicle Dynamic Suspension"? In many ways, these terms all refer to the same basic system, even though Land Rover has decided to change the terminology by vehicle model and year. Listen to our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug, as he explains the various terms and what they mean in relation to Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009 and Range Rover Sport, 2010 - 2013.
Is There A Difference Between The Directional Stability Control (DSC) System, The ACE System or The Dynamic Response System?Hi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. I want to do a short video simply explaining what is ACE. There's been some confusion in the past, and we've had some customers call and wanted to know so we've actually done some previous videos on how to identify whether your vehicle has ACE and exactly what is the system. Now if you have a Discovery 2 and it has ACE, which we did show in the video how to identify that. Essentially all they used was a 2 way hydraulic ram on a split sway bar to help control the vehicle on cornering, to help force a leveling. Uses ACE fluid. Uses a valve block on the passenger side underneath the vehicle. And if you actually look on a previous video we've actually shown you how to do some basic maintenance on that system by replacing the filter and the fluid. Now later on they came out with a similar system in the Range Rover Sports. And that was essentially called Active Stabilization System, or we've even seen it described as Directional Stability Control and even some analyzers have called it Active Roll Control. Essentially they are all the same thing. And what they did was they got away from the 2 way split ram and got into an integral hydraulic motor built into the sway bars, but essentially control the same way. And that's all that ACE is. It's hydraulically controlled sway bars that help level your vehicle on cornering. Again the procedure for the maintenance on the Sport will be the same as the Discovery which is simply filter replacement and some fluid. I hope that clarifies what ACE is. If you have any further questions you can contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to point you in the right direction on what you need to do the maintenance on your ACE system. Just a footnote we wanted to put in. You may have also heard the term Vehicle Dynamic Suspension. Doesn't apply to the Land Rover Sport. It is another system used in the full size Land Rover and it utilizes the air suspension to help reduce body roll. There is no hydraulic roll bar as there is in the Sport and D2. So we just wanted to make sure we had that clear, that you may have heard that term, but it does not apply to the Sport, nor does it apply to the D2. That should just about wrap that up. Wait a minute, wasn't this a Defender?
Atlantic British Ltd. Repair & Maintenance Academy How-To Video: Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain front wheel bearing failure on a LR3, 2005-2009. He goes on to discuss how to resolve this common issue with replacement of the front hub bearing assembly. This replacement of the hub bearing assembly is also valid on a Range Rover Sport, 2006-2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
NOTE: We offer two versions of the hub assembly: Best quality is part # LR014147 (Axle Retainer Nut is additional - see related items on the part page.) Value quality is part # LR014147A (includes an Axle Retainer Nut but part is manufactured for a shorter lifespan / durability.)
Front Wheel Bearing Failure and How To Install a New Hub Bearing Assembly on LR3 2005 - 2009 or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009 Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in the video we're going to address something that shows up quite a bit, that I find any way, on the LR3s and Range Rover Sports and that's front wheel bearing failure. Now, you can replace the front wheel bearings on these by themselves. I know there are some areas that you can get them, but generally when you try to press the old bearings out and press the new ones in, some damage is done to the new ones. It's always better to just replace the hub assembly. It also makes it a much easier installation. Now the first way to find out if I actually have a bad wheel bearing or not is you hear growling noises from the front end, you can hear a loud brake squeal on corners and what that is from is from excessive movement. Now you want to verify that - you jack your vehicle up. You can either jack up by the frame, or if you're dealing with a floor jack slide that under the lower control arm, get the front wheel off the ground. Okay, so caliper is mounted. Brackets back in place. Make sure your hoses are back in their little retainers. You have a small yellow retainer, usually on the brake hose to hold one of the cables in place. Your pad sensor is in place. Caliper is tight. Nut is tight. Nut has been crimped. Retainer screw for the rotor in place. Now you're just going to put the wheel on. One last thing to take note because you have pushed the pads in to remove them off of the rotor, when you first get in your pedal is going to be rather low. Before you move the vehicle, start it up, pump the pedal a few times, get your brake pedal back up, and then you're good to go. So again, this is how you're going to replace the hub assembly on the front of your LR3 or your Sport. When you're ready to do so give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the rear shocks on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322).
Hi I'm Gareth your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on a 2005 L322. It's in need of new rear shock absorbers. We're going to be installing these new Bilstein replacement shock absorbers here that we sell. The mount, the top mount, is held on by three studs and three nuts up underneath the carpet which will show you momentarily. The rear, sorry, the lower mount is bolted with a big long bolt through the lower control arm of the vehicle. So like I said a short while ago we're replacing the shock absorbers because the lower bushing in the shock absorber itself is blown out on this side. Literally totally, the rubber casing is separated from the steel sleeve. If you want to get the closer look you can see here how it's almost off of the bolt at this point here. So the first job is to pull out the load space area cover. Ss you can see I'm kneeling on the spare tire here. These shocks do look like they've been replaced once before. This car does have a few miles on it. The carpet has already been removed once. But if you can lift the carpet up without too much damage or take off a few of the brackets that would be a good start. The nuts that hold the top of the shock on are a 16 millimeter nut. They are pretty tight so do expect to have to work them a little bit with a breaker bar. I've loosened them off already and I'll be doing, working from both sides of the lower face and the top face in here but we just wanted to show you where the shock mount came through the floor of the car so you can access it easier. Of course the front, sorry, the rear seats the base has to be folded all the way forward to access. So I've set the car up. I've got a jack stand underneath the lower control supporting all the suspension and any, you know, the main suspension components so that will relieve the tension on the shock absorber. I'm going to do it from the inside first so it can move a little freely. I think because the shock absorber is so, the lower bushing is so blown out I'll be able to just pull it off and remove it. Okay so we have the vehicle supported at the lower control arm by the jack stand which relieves the tension on the shock absorber. We're going to undo this nut, I'm going to wire brush it and put some WD-40 on it so we can slacken it off and drive out the bolt that holds the shock absorber to the lower control arm. So I've removed the hardware from inside the vehicle, the three 16 millimeter nuts from the top mount of the billstein, well the old strut. We're going to be putting a new Bilstein strut in there, shock absorber I should say. Because the old bushing is so blown out this thing is just going to literally fall off, off of the lower mount, and I did. And I'm pulling it out gently now, not to hit anything. So this is the old strut. As you can see the bushings totally blown out of it. You can see the old steel shell of the old bushing. We're going to be replacing it as a whole new assembly. The next job for me is to remove the nut, pull the main bolt out that supports everything, install the new one and then remount it at the top. Here we have the bolt removed from the vehicle off the lower control arm. As you can see this is the bushing which is actually part of the shock absorber which totally blew out and as you can see it's all worn away. This is going to be removed and thrown away because it comes with the new shock absorber. This is the bolt that holds everything together. As you can see it's a little bit rusty. I'm actually going to clean it up on the wire wheel here that we're lucky enough to have. Clean up the threads. I'm gonna put some anti-seize compound on the bolt so we don't have to worry about it being serviceable in the future. Everything should come apart it needs to and I'm gonna start reinstalling the new shock absorber. So this is the new shock absorber as I explained before. I'm going to put it down into the suspension assembly first, slide it up into place, hold it on by the three nuts initially loosely, and then mount the lower bolt, and then re secure everything nice and tightly using a bit of anti-seize on the bottom bolt, just so like I say it can be quite easily serviced in the future and then tighten everything up accordingly. This is the awkward part. Okay so we've got the new shock absorber installed, top and bottom, the bolt all cleaned up. I don't know whether you can see it, but it's there, the new bolt, well, old bolt cleaned up, wire brushed, anti-seize the nut on this side right here at the back. As you can see it bit of anti-seize on there. I swung on it with a big breaker bar to make sure it's nice tight and secure. We've wrapped up this side pretty much. The other side exactly the same way. It could be a little work out for you. You might break a sweat from time to time. And after that I'm ready to put the wheels back on and make sure we road test the car, make sure we've got no knocks, rattles, bangs, squeaks. And we should all be good.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains a second step in approaching getting rid of the 3 Amigos on your Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will remove and replace the ABS Modulator Valve Kit part # SWO500040 . Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Part # SWO500040 Install ABS Modulator Valve Kit On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about maybe the second step, or a better step in approaching getting rid of the 3 amigos on your vehicle. Now again we've stated any ABS fault is going to activate the 3 amigos which is essentially your ABS, your hill descend and your traction control lights on your dash. But, you use the fault codes to find out that in fact it is shuttle valve circuits that are creating the problem. Now everybody refers to this as shuttle valves which in essence it's not the shuttle valve itself but it is the shuttle valve actuator. And this is the 2 actuators that plunge and operate the 2 valves. In addition to that though, you have this intermediate block which also has all the solenoids that activate and pull the valves open on the system. Now what happens is should we get a little brake fluid in there, or just due to exposure, the 2 pin connectors inside that block which plugs into the shuttle valve actuator can get some corrosion on it, as well as the connectors here. So after inspection and you find you see some corrosion in there or you've pulled the shuttle valves apart and I know there are some test out there you can test these to determine if they are good or bad, that you may want to do the 2 piece set which we have as a kit. So you might want to look into that. What we're going to do is going to show you we've already shown you how to install the shuttle valve itself without disconnecting the brake lines. You can refer back to our video on that. But what we're going to do now is show you how to install this intermediate block. This also doesn't include removing the brake lines which you basically can get around. I'm going to show you how to do that. So right away you'll notice that the solenoid block doesn't have any hydraulic lines going to it. So we actually should be able to replace this without having to disconnect any of the lines. Before we do that though we need to lift this block so that we can unbolt the shuttle valve actuator underneath because that actually attaches electrically to the bottom side of this solenoid block. So first what we do is start off with push that tab and we pull the 2 electrical connectors. There's a little squeeze tab on the backside of this lower one. And that pulls that out. And get that out of the way. And even though it's really not necessary we'll take the brake fluid level connector off just to move that out of the way just so we know we're not going to damage the wiring. It's good to move that and get that clear. So you have 3 10 millimeter nuts. The back ones you'll need to remove. The front one is in a slotted hole so all we need to so with that is essentially just loosen it. And probably about 4 or 5 turns and that should give us enough slack to remove that.You can determine basically how hard they were to get out will help determine how much torque to put on them putting them back in. And generally I did it by hand and it works fine for me. But you may want to gauge how tight they are by how tight they were coming off. Alright just to finish things off you're going to make sure top put your 2 electrical connectors back on. Plug in your brake fluid level connector. And at that point you're done. You didn't brake the lines open so we don't have to bleed the system. You may want to clear the codes out of the ABS module. If you don't have that capability actually what it will do is, it won't necessarily clear the code, but it will keep the light off if it sees that the system is functioning properly at this point. If you should still end up with issues with the 3 amigos and they still come up as shuttle valve codes, then more than likely you're going to need the hydraulic unit. But we find for the majority of vehicles out there, this repair takes care of it. So when you're ready to take care of your shuttle valve issue, and you find you need the extra component that this kit will help fix it for you, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will install Clearview Towing Mirrors (part # CV-LR-D34-EB) on our Land Rover LR3.
Kit#:CV-LR-D34-EB Clearview Installing Clearview Towing Mirrors For LR3. Hi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to cover our new Clearview mirrors for the LR3. We want to show you the installation. It's a little bit different from LR4 and from the Sport so we're going to show you in a little more detail. These are really nice mirrors that extend out. Great for trailering. Even if you want to replace the original mirrors for better viewing behind the vehicle, they're a great addition to the vehicle. Let's show you how to put them on, and show you what they look like. So just a quick rundown on the tools you're going to need to make the changeover. One you're going to need a number 2 phillips, or for us lazy guys we like to use a little power tool. You have a 10 millimeter and a 7 millimeter quarter inch drive socket. Quarter inch drive ratchet. Quarter inch drive extension. And a little pry tool. And I prefer the vinyl tool so that you don't harm any paint or any vinyl just from popping the door panel off. So let's begin. We're going to start with the 1 tool I forgot to mention a little pocket screw driver. What we're going to do is the Land Rover emblem that's here has to be popped out. That's going to expose a screw behind it. Pop that out. And then behind the door handle, if you raise out, you see a little round piece, we're just basically just going to sneak in underneath it, and that pops out exposing a screw. And we'll take that right out. So then we take our phillips, and we're going to run those 2 screws out. Now even though it looks like a solid piece, This cover right here on the handle needs to come up. Now these are on here pretty tight, so you take your small little screw driver, and just underneath you can get a finger nail in there. Just enough to raise that out.And you can see them. You can actually feel it wiggle back and forth. It will drop right in. That will also line up pretty much all the door pins all the way around and hold this on. So pop it all on. All the way around. Double check that before we put the screws in. So we know the inner door handle works. So now it's just reverse the process of reinstalling the 2 bottom screws, the 4 screws in the handle, the screw in the back behind the Land Rover emblem, and also the screw right behind the door release and then we're going to pop the 2 pieces of trim on. And then when you go to put the handle back on, you have 2 tabs on the top, they drop in first, and then you just pop in the bottom. And that's essentially it. You're done putting you're mirror back on. Now the driver side will be an identical procedure. You should be able to change both mirrors within less than an hour. So it's a really nice change over. And a really nice addition to your LR3. So when you're ready to add your Clearview mirrors onto your 2006 to 2009 LR3, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you'd like you can click on this link and order online. And if you happen to like our video and would like to see more about your Land Rover you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and watch more videos. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Learn how you can install a trailer wiring kit on your Range Rover HSE, 2010 - 2012. With an exclusive trailer wiring kit that is specially-developed for Range Rover vehicles, getting more out of your Range Rover has never been easier. These kits seamlessly connect Rover wiring harness and supply to your vehicle. Click here for complete product installation instructions, with color photos.
Installation Process VPLMT0008ABP Trailer Wiring Kit For Range Rover HSE (L322) 2010 - OnLocate the wiring access opening underneath and behind the rear bumper and remove the rubber grommet. Locate the Bracket Mounting location. Mount the bracket to the vehicle using the M8 x 1.25 mm by 20mm long bolts. Feed the harness connector through the opening created by removing the grommet in step #1. Pull it through to the inside of the trunk well. Secure the harness grommet in the opening. Using the M5 x 0.8 mm Phillips head machine screws secure the Trailer Connector to the bracket. Your Trailer Connector should look like this. Locate the vehicles trailer connector inside the well in the trunk. Plug the harness connector into the vehicles connector. Using a diagnostic computer, set the vehicle to "Trailer Capable".
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will explain and resolve the dongle to iPhone (or iPad, iOS) connectivity issue, using the iLAND Diagnostic App . LAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers!
Hi I'm Doug, I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're gonna touch base on something that's been showing up on our iLAND diagnostic tool specifically with the iOS system if you're trying to hook up with your iPhone or your iPad there has been an issue with some connectivity every once in a while there seems to be a little confliction in the software between the diagnostic part of the dongle and the connection part of the dongle so what we're going to do is we're just going to go through a basic procedure to help you out and essentially what's going to happen is if you get on your your iLAND and you've hooked up to your vehicle and you've gone through the basic the initial startup windows and then you're going to get to the window that actually wants to apply to the vehicle to diagnose or enter into one of the modules and what will happen is you'll get a screen alright so what you end up with is this window it's going to tell you to enter system and then it's going to give you a checklist of reasons why you didn't to get in and essentially what this becomes as a connectivity issue so we're going to show you how to back out of it so you're gonna hit OK and then we're actually going to go back to now you want to make sure also that you have no running apps while you're doing this so we're gonna hit the home button twice and what comes up basically is all your running apps we're going to get rid of let's get rid of everything there and then pull the home screen back up and you're going to go into your iLAND diag app not the normal app that you use to get into your vehicle access so we're going to hit that once you've logged in it's going to go back to this screen and ask you again you're gonna hit dongle again alright so by hitting dongle now there's a serial number from our dongle our dongle is plugged in we got our blue light on so we know that this connected and we're gonna do the firmware upgrade now obviously you want to do this in an area where you have a fairly strong Wi-Fi signal that would work best and then just follow the directions so once it has completed the upgrade now you're going to see box version will actually be filled in so you'll have your active time and your box version and so now what it'll tell you to do so we're gonna get off this we're gonna double click to clear that out and now go back into our diag and here we got so we're in a Discovery II so we're just going to go through our garage confirmations here let it go through the checklist showing we have the we are hooked up dongles connected and we've got the latest firmware so now we'll find out if we can connect to the vehicle let's go through the PCM alright key is on the vehicle dongles in place and so now we have connectivity we can now read fault codes we can get into the modules so that's gonna be the procedure you're gonna follow to get your iPhone reconnected so that you can know so basically the connectivity function that's why you have two icons on your iPhone it's the communication between those two levels of software that creates this problem and now we know how to clear it out so should you run into that issue on your iLAND you can give me a call at 1-800-533-2210 and what I can do is either email you that information or just follow the video and we'll get you back up and running.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform an engine & transmission adaption reset on a 1999-2004 Land Rover Discovery Series II, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone , is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us through this form .
How To Use the iLAND App Engine and Transmission Adaption Reset Demonstrated on the Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about adaptions. Or better yet, clearing adaptions. What adaptions are is the control module for the engine and the control module for the transmission. As you drive the vehicle, will adapt to changes in the sensors, changes in your driving habits and essentially adapts to keep the vehicle within a certain efficiency level. So what happens is, should you develop a fault, like a mass airflow sensor or a transmission shift fault or anything else that will affect the drivability of the vehicle. After you've done the repair you need to clear the adaptions. Now I'll just quickly explain in the case of a mass airflow sensor, mass airflow sensor has deteriorated, so what happens is the system has adapted and constantly adapted until it's reached a certain limit it can no longer adapt. And you basically get your fault code. And you have to do a repair. You put the new airflow sensor in it, and what happens now is that's reading correctly, but your still running off the old adaptions and the cars going to run worse than it did before you did the repair, and you're going to think that's not the problem. What you need to do, any time you change O2 sensors, throttle body, throttle position, mass airflow sensor, you should always clear adaptions. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to do that with the new iLAND and how easy it is to do. And it's also very important so keep watching. Alright, so you now the basics. You're going to plug your iLAND in. You have your dongle that you plug into the diagnostic. You go through the basics and then you're going to go to this screen. Now on this screen you'll notice all the vehicles, all the blocks, are in the red. This is because this is the Pro series and we have access to all these different vehicles. If you've purchased an iLAND, you can get for just 1 design vehicle, like in this case say Discovery, it will be just red block on Discovery, the rest will be in white. So we're going to pick our Discovery, We'll go through what the call garage disclaimers. It's telling me we're in the current version, otherwise it would list another version underneath and we would load that in just so we know that we have the latest and the greatest. We'll hit confirm. And it's going to connect with the Bluetooth. And just give it a few minutes or a few seconds actually. It doesn't take that long. Here's our choices. We can go to any one of these Discovery versions. We're in a 1999 Discovery 2. And we'll go to engine. Now essentially all the Discovery 2s are going to be BOSCH motronic. No other system. That's basically the only petrol system they used on these with the 4.0 and later on the 4.6. So we now the ignition is on. The keys on, we can see our lights. Now you've got this listing of all the capabilities. But we're going to go down to vehicle maintenance. Gives you a little warning as far as looking at who should be working on the vehicle. Now here we have reset adaptions. This is very easy where we're going to hit that. It's going to sort of explain what adaptions are. And under what conditions you should be doing this under. Like say basically fuel injector. Lambda sensor, which is essentially O2 sensor. Fuel pump, mass airflow sensor, intake manifold leak or air leak repair. All that can affect adaptions. So then it's going to ask you at the bottom, basically confirm do you wish to reset ECM adaptions. So we're just going to do that. And they've been reset. Just that quickly, just that easy. But now what it has done it has reset all of the initial setting for the ECM back to original factory settings. So we hit OK. And we're all done with that. Then we can back up. And it's usually best that if you do one you should always do the other. It's reasonably easy to do. Just get this to back up here. Maybe it just doesn't like that finger. There we go. So we're back to part of our menu. We're going to go back one more. Ok. So now these are all the different modules we have access to. So we're going to go to auto gear box. Essentially transmission. Ignition is still on. It's going to reconnect. Ok. So now we've connected with the transmission control module. We'll go to vehicle maintenance. We hit Ok. And there right on top is reset adaptions. And we'll hit that. Then again it's going to go through and explain why you would do this and under what conditions. And then at the bottom of course there's your confirmation do you wish to reset ECU adaptions. We'll hit yes. And there you go. Adaptions have been reset successfully. So now we've done both engine and transmission, it didn't even take 5 minutes. So now we'll back up. We'll get back to the main menu. And then of course when you go to do this it will say really quit. We're going to back out of that. And at this point it is a reminder make sure you don't leave the dongle plugged into the diagnostic plug. And we'll hit Ok because we pulled it out. And that's it. That's basically a very easy thing to do. Especially with the iLAND and it's very important to do as you can see under certain repair conditions so that you know when you're done and you restart your vehicle it's going to run right. So, if you're going to get into repairs on your Discovery 2, again that's 1999 to 2004, and you find you need a tool that's going to be able to do the reset for adaptions just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can order your iLAND online at this link. And if you liked our how to video, and would like to see more you can go to our YouTube channel and subscribe and view all our different videos that we've done to help you keep your Land Rover in good order. So thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the process involved in replacing the transmission filter for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using money-saving kit # TRANSM100SKA , which comes with 6 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, transmission filter with gasket and pan, filter plug,and an automatic transmission valve sleeve, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Please Note: While part number LR007474, is used on Range Rover Full Size models, the process for this service differs from LR3 to Range Rover Full Size. Please note that there are parts mentioned in the video not included in the kit that you may want to replace for the service, those part #s are exhaust gasket #WCM100460L and # TYP500050 pan bolts (21 required).
Kit # TRANSM100SKA: Performing Transmission Service On LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to touch base on the transmission service and filter kit in our repair and maintenance academy program. And on that program you can go on our website and you can download this sheet which will also give you all the other recommended services, but in this case we're looking at the transmission filter service kit, part number TRANSM100SKA. This is a service that we recommend every 90,000 miles. Now if you tow or if you live in an area with a lot of hills or a lot of climbing then I would suggest you do this on a more often basis. But for normal driving conditions every 90,000 is the recommended. And what you are going to get with the kit is a new pan assembly with the gasket, because on these ZF transmission the pan is integral with the filter, so to change the filter you need to change the whole pan. Comes with a new gaskets, comes with new magnets to maintain and hold any material that might be floating around in there. You have a new fill plug which we will show you further on how to do the service on this and where your fill plug is located. And 6 quarts of recommended fluid for the ZF. Do not mix Dexron or any other transmission fluid with these transmissions. They require a specific transmission fluid, you really need to use that so you don't give yourself problems down the line. So you're going to be using anywhere from 5 to 6 quarts, so we give you 6 quarts for your refill. And in a minute what we'll do is show the basics on how to do your transmission service.And that basically is the full procedure for refilling. Cap it off once it reaches the drip. Take it for a ride. Make sure it is shifting properly. Make sure any air has been worked out of the system. And you should be good to go. So when you're ready to do your transmission service, or have it done, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, discuss the replacement of the fuel filler door latch, Kit # DA1114 (Formerly Kit # FFFLR), for LR3 and Range Rover Sport. These door latches commonly fail with age, so Doug will show you the 2-part installation, to get your fuel filler door working like new again. In the kit, you will receive all the components needed to make the repair.
Replacing the Fuel Filler Latch on the Range Rover Sport or LR3, Repair Kit # DA1114 (Formerly Kit # FFFLR)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative from Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to talk about the fuel cap, the fuel door replacement kit that Land Rover makes available. As most of you know either this little retainer here likes to break, or the little what they call the flapper in between, likes to break, and then you can't close your fuel door, or actually it won't stay shut. So they have a, we have a kit that consists of 5 pieces which will be the 3 parts that replace this segment or this assembly and then the 2 pieces that replace the catch on the door. And you'll be getting these 5 pieces when you order the kit, the kit number is FFFLR, and it's available through our catalog. Very easy to install but I do get some calls on it so we're just going to go through this quickly and show you what needs to be done.So when you're ready to do this repair on your LR3 or even the Sport, which has the same fuel door design, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains what to listen for when the rear sway bar bushings on a 2006 - 2009 Range Rover Sport go bad. Doug then shows you how to replace of these bushings using part # RVU000022 . This replacement service is also valid on the Range Rover Sport Supercharged and Full Size, 2006 - 2009, along with the LR3, 2005 - 2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to our live chat.
Part #:RVU000022 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement Demonstrated on 2008 Range Rover Sport with Directional Stability ControlHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a component that frequently fails on the Sports and the LR3s from 2006 to 2009. And that's the sway bar bushings. Believe it or not they do take a lot of stress and over a period of time they'll dry out, they'll shrink and if you're in an area where it is heavily salted in the winter time, it's going to dry them out even faster. And one of the symptoms is usually either a bumping or a knocking from the back of the vehicle on slow speed bumps. And you'll hear it vibrate all up and down through the frame. What happens is a lot of guys will automatically go to the sway bar links there at the end of the sway bars, and they really don't give much consideration to the bushings, that are sort of hidden in here. And essentially this is what they look like. It's nothing more than wraps around the sway bar. Now, the vehicle that we have here is a 2008 Sport, with directional stability control, which is essentially power assisted sway bars. They have a hydraulic ram in them, which creates even more stress on the bushings, so don't be surprised, maybe at only 4 or 5 years old that these bushings are all ready creating noise, need to be replaced. Now the repair is relatively easy. It's only 4 bolts. But it's just where they are hidden they can be hard to get at. So it usually will require some out of the ordinary tools to get to, but with those tools, it makes this job very, very easy. And we're going to show you how to do that. I'm going to talk about the 2 wrenches that I find are probably handiest at trying to do this. And one they call an offset box wrench. 12 point works better than 6, only because with a 12 point you don't have to go as far a swing to be able to grab onto the bolt for the next turn. So 12 point works pretty well. Plus with the offset it gets you clear of some of the minor obstructions in there. And you can use this to break it loose. Once you've got the bolt loose, then usually switch over to a ratcheting box wrench. And I like the length because of the leverage. A shorter one will work fine after you've broken the bolt loose, but I like the additional leverage. Plus in this particular model, on the other end of it I do have a box wrench that does have a slight offset which will grab onto the bolt. The only thing you need to be concerned with, is that when the bolts get very close to the frame, because there is no reversing lever, you want to make sure that you can get that wrench out between the top of the bolt and the body of the vehicle so that you can finish taking the bolt out. So always keep that in mind, make sure you leave yourself a space, and then once you reach that point you can either get in there with a regular open end wrench or whatever and take it out the last several threads and the bolt will be out. So that's essential it. So we're just going to take those 2 bolts out using these 2 wrenches and then we'll show you the actual installation of the bushing. All right. So before we take this apart, I want to give you a little more detailed idea of what we are dealing with. And essentially what we have is you see this round object right here, this is the bushing or the bracket that actually holds the bushing down. You have a bolt towards the rear right here. And then you have another bolt in the front right there. 13 millimeter heads and they're somewhat long because this is designed to hold this down. This takes a lot of stress. Now again as I've mentioned, this has the directional stability control, so this is essentially power assisted sway bars, so they can create a lot of stress, so the bolts are a good inch long. So again, you want to make sure that you take your wrench out of there before you bring that bolt up too high so that you can get the wrench out and then get the remainder of the volt out. So we're going to take these 2 off and then we'll show you how to lift the bracket up and out of there and remove the bushing. All right, so, we worked the 2 bolts out, and you can see that we've got the sway bar loose now. And we have our gentle persuader. And we just get up underneath the ears of the bracket, front and back, and we're going to lift it right up and off of that bushing. Angle that towards the back so we can clear that. And it will just squeeze off between the body and the bracket. And there's your mounting bracket right there. Now the bushing has a split in it so you can remove it without having to disassemble the sway bar. Normally the split is going to face towards the back of the vehicle. Now this gets a little touchy because this bushing is old and dried out so they don't come off easy and you need the pry bar to get inside that split. And try and lift that out of there. Here's the old bushing as it is. You can see the wear and tear on the outside edges as opposed to the new one. And if you look very closely you can see you have a little bit smaller diameter on the new one versus the old one. So as I said, here's your split and what we're going to do is reinstall this sitting in this direction with the split facing the back of the vehicle, just the way it was as original equipment. Then we slide that bracket back over the top of it. And run the 2 bolts back in, and we're essentially installed. Got it installed. Now when you go to put the 2 bolts back in, you do have a little bit of play on that bushing and the bracket. You can move it in and out about half an inch. So the easiest I have found is just to put the bracket on partially over the bushing, leaving a small gap so you can see where your threaded hole is for your bolt. Run the bolt through. Line them up, then you can thread them in by hand. Yeah, you can get your hand in there, but it takes a little patience. And then you'll feel the bracket seat over the top of the bushing. Now if you look at the old bushing, you'll see that there is an indentation here, and there's a matching indentation on the bracket so that it centers the bracket on the bushing. And you'll feel it, it won't really go on until it centers itself. So you can move that bushing and bracket in and out just a little to get those bolt holes lined up. And then again once you get started, run them in with a wrench, tighten them up good, and then go to the other side and do the exact same thing on the other side and you've got your new bushings in place. So when you're ready to changeover the rear sway bar bushings on any of the Land Rover vehicles, in this case the Sport, you can just call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
A brief overview of the Air-to-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits available for many Range Rover models. If this is something you have been thinking of installing on your Rover, watch this video to learn how to get started. Includes information on part 9520LBHDWB .
Air-To-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits For Range Rover VehiclesHi. I'm Chip French. I'm a salesman here at Atlantic British. And if you own a Range Rover you know the expense of maintaining your air suspension system. We've come up with a couple different coil spring conversions for all Range Rovers from 1993 up to the 2006 model. This one here is for the P38, for the vehicle that was built from 1995 to 2002. We use custom made springs, where other companies may use a spring from a different vehicle to fit the Rover, ours are custom bent. We also have machined perches where the springs go on, where other companies use a stamp steel product. We add new bump stops and also the override harness, which will bypass the error messages on your computer. It is very simple to plug in, instead of having to rewire the ECM, which could be expensive if not done correctly. We also have these available in a heavy duty set-up for some vehicles. Check us out on the website or just give us a call.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, discuss the recommended oil change frequency on late model Land Rovers or Range Rovers. Land Rover’s recommended interval of 12K-15K oil changes on late model Rovers with synthetic engine oil is an often-discussed topic in the forum community. Many are saying, and We agree, that the frequency of changes should be half that (every 7,500 miles) or you risk causing long-term wear and damage to the engine.
Hi I'm Gareth, the tech support rep here at Atlantic British. Today in this video we're going to discuss oil change frequencies for Land Rover Range Rover models from 2003 to present day, whether it be Range Rover Sport, LR3 or LR4. A lot of people have been reading online about Land Rovers and talking about Rover oil change frequencies. People are saying that it's a long time between 12,000 and 16,000 miles to get there oil changes done. We agree with that. It's an awful long time to wait for an oil change. The extended oil change service frequencies on Range Rovers and Land Rovers these days are a little bit too extended. We feel they can unfortunately cause, you know, detrimental wear to engine components for things like timing chains, timing chain guides, etc, which can also lead to more severe failures possibly because of those extended service life. We feel like good oil change every sort of 7,500 miles is probably the best course of action and keep the engine and other components running to the best service capabilities. So when you're ready to do your oil change we have a number of kits for all the model Range Rovers which include enough oil to do the oil change, the relevant oil filter, O ring if needed, a new drain plug, and of course an oil change service reminder that sticks to the windshield. This kit is for the 5.0 v8 engine which is in the LR4 Full-Size Range Rover and Range Rover Sport. And when you're ready to order it please visit us online at Roverparts.com or there's a link you can go to on the screen. Or you can always call one of our friendly sales reps and talk to them about what model vehicle you have and what oil service kit you're going to need. The phone number is 800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install a BajaRack Expedition Roof Rack BAJALR34EXP on an LR3 (can be installed on most vehicles with factory roof rails). BajaRack roof racks were created as rugged storage solutions for the adventurer that likes to go beyond the trail. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to live chat.
Part # BAJALR34EXP Install BajaRack For Vehicles With Factory Roof Rails Demonstrated on LR3Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we want to show you one of the three BajaRacks that we have available for the LR3. And they say three because there is actually a couple different versions based on what options are on top of vehicles. Whether it was equipped with side rails or just the trim and the rain gutter. And we'll explain that a little better as we get into the video. So for now what I want to do is show you the hardware kit that comes with this rack. Now the difference between this rack and a standard rack is that this one has the side rails omitted from the backside so that later on you can also add the optional tent and the ladder so that you can take it out camping. With the design with the side rails they won't accept the tent. And we're going to get into that as we get into the video. So for now we're going to show you basically this is the bracket or the hardware set that you're going to have with this unit. This particular rack I'm showing you in this video is part number BAJALR34EXP. Essentially you can do it with just simple tools. About the hardest part of the whole thing is picking it up and putting it on the roof. And one thing I'm going to quickly mention is on the LR3, you go to remember on the roof you have the back half of that roof is a large glass panel. So you want to make sure you put a blanket or coverage on there somehow so that in case you drop a ratchet, you drop a tool or a part, you're not going to end up damaging that glass. So, just something to keep in note. So what we're going to do is we're essentially show you, using these tools, how to mount this rack up in a reasonably quick amount of time. Alright, so this is how you're going to receive this. This is how this unit is packaged. You can see it basically assembled other than the basic hardware. You have a nice heavy duty black finish on it. There's an air deflector in the front to minimize your air noise. And you can see the side rails are omitted off this particular design so that you can add the tent.Total overall height with the vehicle sitting at its normal right height is about 80 inches, which is 6 foot, 8 inch. So it will easily fit underneath even a 7 foot door as opposed to most garage doors being 9 foot. So plenty of clearance there. As you can see, you have a nice grade steel. It's a good heavy duty piece. The paint on this is done in, is a powder coat so it gets into every pore. It also adds protection. And again, you have the air deflector in the front to help minimize the amount of noise going down the road. You have yourself a nice addition to your vehicle and it definitely adds to the look. Okay, just to show you this is how your rack will come in when it's shipped to you. This will come freight truck obviously due to the size. It is basically all pre assembled. All you have to do is mount the brackets and your done in less than an hour, you can have one of these mounted properly on top of your vehicle. So, when you're ready to order your rack for your LR3 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series II. Using our money-saving kit, with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need , it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles.
Kit # ABP218SKA Installing the Brake Hose &Fluid Kit on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to introduce you to the brake fluid and hose kit that we make as part of our repair and maintenance academy. The hose kit will cover both front and rear hoses for your Discovery 2, 1999 to 2002. And what's included is your 2 front hoses, 2 rear hoses from body to axle and then axle to rear caliper. You get new bolts for the caliper banjo fittings with new copper washers and seals, and enough brake fluid to properly flush out and bleed the whole system. Now the advantage behind our brake hoses as opposed to original equipment design, we manufacture them here. They are manufactured of a braided stainless steel, it makes them lighter, stronger and much more longer lasting. If your vehicle has 100,000 miles, 105,000, which Land Rover actual recommends replacement of those hoses at 105,000 miles. This is Kit I, Part #ABP218SKA and this will get you everything that you have here. These hoses will be considerably stronger and will last longer than the original equipment which is going that safer. And in the long run it is going to make your brakes perform better. And in a few minutes we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Once you have your brakes bled out, put your wheels back on. Make sure they're torqued to proper specs. Take your jack stands out. And you're ready to go. So again, when you're ready to change over your brake hoses, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
How to remove an old hood strut and install a new one on a Range Rover P38 (1995-2002). Watch Jim as he explains the steps needed to do in order to change out your hood struts on a Range Rover.
Installation Instructions Hood Struts On Range Rover P38Hi. It's Jim from Atlantic British. I do the technical support here. One of our employees owns this Range Rover, and the other day she said it was a little hard to get the hood open. So I told Nancy, it must be time for new hood struts. Get some kind of prop rod that will hold your hood in place when you remove the strut. Pry the little clip out on the bottom of the strut. That way you can release it from the ball. On this particular model you have to take the bracket off the hood. 2 simple bolts. Once you get that off you'll find another clip similar to the bottom one. Raise it up. That will release it from the ball. And get your new strut - you may have to lift your clip up on the new part. Slip the ball in. Clip it in place. Then put the bracket back on the car. The next thing to do is just snap the strut on to the ball. You may have to lift the hood slightly and hang on to your hood prop. Release the prop, the hood should stay in place. Usually it is a good idea to replace the struts in pairs. If one is worn, certainly the other is worn also. You can order your struts, and we carry a full line for all Land Rover products here at Atlantic British, Roverparts.com, or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Our sales staff is pretty knowledgeable in the parts they sell. They'll certainly be happy to help you.
The LR3 and Range Rover Sport are showing their age. When the bushings on the lower control arms become worn, you will find the car does not handle well, and also, evidence of advanced tire wear will occur. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he discusses options you have for replacement of the lower control arms and the bushings installed in this arms, based on the tools/equipment you have or your how-to ability level. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210.
Polybush vs. Regular Bushing Overview: Replacement vs. Buying Whole Control Arms and Parts On LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we are going to talk about lower control arm bushings, especially for the LR3s and the Sports. They're starting to show their age. We found a lot of vehicles where they've gotten so lose where they're starting to bang. bang. They are actually creating so much movement that the car doesn't feel like it handles the same way anymore. Advance tire wear. And then again a banging noise from the lower end when you step on the brake or when you accelerate. So, anyway. What we have are several options. And these options mostly are going to depend on your mechanical ability and the equipment that you have. You can start the easy way, and a lot of guys will go this option, is to replace the entire control arm. These are the 2 bushings in questions. Plus you end up with a new ball joint and a new control arm. Now you have a hardware kit in case the old hardware is in bad shape. We actually offer you all the hardware to install the control arm with the alignment cams, the nut and the bolts. If you opt to have just the bushings replaced, you want to rebuild the existing control arm, you can install the factory designed bushings and ball joint. Things is you will need a press to install these. So keep that in mind. Or if you have a friend with a press or a shop that will press them in for you that will be fine. The control arm itself isn't all that bad to remove, and if you refer to our video that we have in the How To videos, you'll see exactly how to remove this. And it will actually show you a way where you can cut out the bushings without having to use a press. The third option is going to be the polybush which we actually show you how to install in one of our How To videos. Because once you've cut out the original bushings, these actually just slide in place. You install the metal insert and then bolt back in the vehicle. So it's relatively easy. So then again it's all a matter of the shop equipment that you have, your mechanical ability, basically what option that you decide to do. What's nice about it is that we do have the hardware kit separate so that if you do opt for the polybush kit, you can use the factory designed hardware to install it. And then that will set you up so that you can bring it to your local shop. You get your vehicle aligned and then you're all set and ready to go. The polybush are nice because they are easy to install. They do change the ride a little bit. Mostly favorable. It might give you a little nicer ride on the road. The original bushings again, this will set the vehicle back to its original specifications. Or you can do the same with just replacing the whole control arm. And again refer to our How To videos and there's a lot of good information in there on how to change them over. So, when you're ready to do that repair on your LR3 or your Sport just refer to our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
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