Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the primary serpentine and timing belt for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using
kit # PQS101271LSKA, which includes the parts to complete this service, it is recommended that both belts be replaced every 60,000 miles. In this video, Doug refers to pdf instructions which can be found here:
Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the primary serpentine and secondary tensioner belts for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using
kit # PQS000100SKA, which includes both belts needed, it is recommended that the belts be replaced every 90,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the serpentine belt for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using
part # ERR6896 ( if ACE-equipped ) or part # ERR6898 ( if not ACE-equipped ), it is recommended that the serpentine belt be replaced every 45,000 miles. Kit # ERR6896 / ERR6898 Belt Replacement on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications for Vehicles with or without ACE SystemHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to show you the belt replacement for the 1999 to 2004Discovery 2 with the BOSCH 4 liter or 4.6 engine. This kit is part of our repair and maintenance academy. And is a recommended service for your vehicle. Belt replacement is actually recommended by Land Rover every 45,000 miles. Now there are differences in the kit based on whether or not your Discovery is equipped with ACE. Now we do have a previous video which you can check back on which will show you the difference between ACE and non-ACE on your Discovery. There's a very easy way to find out. Now you'll see the 2 different belts. With ACE because there's an additional pump, there will be a longer belt. Without ACE, a shorter belt. Both with 6 ribs. And you'll find that the kit is on a downloadable and printable sheet available on our website. It's kit J. And then depending on which kit you get will vary the part number. Part numbers will be shown right on the sheet. Now what we'll do is in a minute we'll show you how to change the belt over on your Discovery 2 and so you can do this service yourself. and you've installed a new belt. When you're ready to change the belt over on your Disco 2 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the Serpentine Belt for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS Engine. Using
part # ERR4460, it is recommended that the serpentine belt be replaced every 60,000 miles. Kit #: ERR4460 Replacing the Primary Serpentine Belt on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to talk about the belt replacement kit as part of our repair and maintenance academy program. This is the belt for the 1995 to 1999 GEMS engine P38 Full Size Range Rover which I have behind me. On our sheet you'll see it as kit J, ERR4460. It comes with the primary belt, proper number for this vehicle. This is something that gets neglected every once in a while. No sense being stranded on the road with a broken belt. It is recommended being done every 60,000 miles by Land Rover. And what we are going to do is show you how to install this belt yourself. And again, should you want to change the belt on your P38, you can refer to our repair and maintenance log and you'll be able to pull the sheet up to give you your kit number and give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, replace the serpentine belt (using item #
ERR5579) on a 1997 land Rover Defender 90 (also applicable to Discovery I models 1996 - 1999 with 4.0L engines.) Doug will show you how to access and remove the belt, and then replace and install a new belt. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles. Part #: ERR5579 Belt Change On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on belt replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. And in this kit you simply will be getting the replacement serpentine belt. Now this particular belt is used on both the 97 Defenders and the Discovery 1 4 liters. Now you'll see a part number ERR5579D and what we are going to do is show you the basics on belt replacement. Now I'm going to show you how easy it is to change the serpentine belt on your D90. This is a 97 with the serpentine, not with the multiple V belts. This is the belt you are going to receive in your kit. Your part number ERR5579D. Set that right there. First step is we're going to take this upper coolant hose; that will just slide up out of the way very nicely. You have 2 bolts that run down through the brackets that support the fan shroud. Normally, 10 millimeter heads on the 2. And the center section of this upper shroud is just held in place with 2 clips. One here - just going to lift up. Release that clip. Down on the other side you have the same style clip. You are going to roll this forward so that it clears so you can lift straight up and out. And this gives you pretty nice access to this. We've got enough clearance in there. Your belt tensioner, which is right here, has a 15 millimeter head on the nut right there and that's what we are going to turn to take the tension of the belt. Now it's a 15 millimeter, I use a long 15 wrench, gear wrench. There are a number of fan wrenches available out there. You just need something fairly long that will give you the leverage you need. You're going to push down which you see releases the tension on the belt. Slip it off of the top of the alternator. As a note, before you take the belt off completely, take a note of the way it is routed. Under the water pump. Under the lower pulley. Over the top of the power steering pump. Top of the alternator. And around the compressor. Once you loosen the belt up the fan is in the way. So you can loop the belt around the fan. Turn the fan until that area of the belt comes around. The fan will actually assist in that, help you out with that. Take this side off the power steering pump. Push it down to give it some slack. Then simply slide your belt out. Now this belt is in pretty good position. We're just doing this as demonstrative so you would essentially just take your belt out. And what I recommend, just a habit I got into all the years is take the 2 belts, end to end, stretch them out. You just want to verify you have the right size belt before you go try and install it and find out it might be off an inch. And this one is a good fit. You can see it is exactly the same as the original that came out. Set that aside. Drop this down so you can actually slip the bottom of the belt right underneath the fan. Which will then put us right around the bottom of the lower pulley which is where we should be. We'll start off there with the installation. Lift up a little bit and set the belt in the grooves. We remembered we went over the top of the power steering pump. We're going to take this piece on the right side and just run it here around the AC compressor, because that's where eventually it is going to go. And we went under the water pump, which means we have to go around the fan again. Fortunately with this upper shroud off you really have some room to work where you can put your hand down inside and push that belt down below the fan blades. It's a tight fit between the water pump and the lower pulley, which means you can feed in from one side and pull out the other. There we go. You want to check and see that we didn't slip off the bottom pulley. And as I say, we can get our hand down in there. Very good. Now make sure the belt is centered. You want to give it a good look because it could feel like it is on but you could be 1 rib over, which means after you put it on you'll have to take it all back apart again and readjust it. Okay, centered on both sides of the lower. Centered on the underside of the water pump pulley. Over the top of the power steering pulley. We're going to be between the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley. Top of the alternator. Now when we go around the AC compressor you can unloop the belt from around the alternator because that's where you're going to end up putting it back on. And you hold up on that section of the belt to retain tension so that you don't slip off down below and have to do that again. We'll double check. We're still centered on the bottom pulley. Look good here. Look good here. Center the belt on the idler pulley. Again you're going to maintain tension, take your long 15 millimeter, push down to relieve the tension on the belt. Slide that on. Check for tension - that looks good. Again always double check and triple check to make sure your ribs are lined up where they should be, that your belt is centered on the pulleys and we look good. Essentially our belt is now on. All we need to do at this point is reinstall the upper shroud cover. Put your clips on. Your 2 bolts. And you have changed your serpentine belt. Now when you put this upper shroud in there's actually sort of a slot that it sits in. You want to make sure it is fully seated. And you will know if it isn't because you'll have a real hard time trying to clamp this clip. If it pops on that easy you know you're in place. Same thing with the lower. You'll feel it pop in. Clamp it. Put your 2 bolts back in to hold on the upper shroud. These are essentially just sheet metal screws that thread into the plastic itself. Put your hose back on. Make sure that when you put the hose back on that you don't create any tight bends, that you have a good looping bend on there so that it doesn't restrict the coolant. And there you are. You have a brand new belt on there. So when you you're ready to change the belt on your D90, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes you through the steps involved in replacing the primary serpentine and secondary tensioner belts for a 2005-2009 LR3 V8 4.4L or Range Rover Sport '06-'09 (non-supercharged V8 models without roll stability control.). Using
kit # PQR500330SKA, it is recommended that the belts be replaced every 105,000 miles. Kit # PQR500330SKA Belt Replacement On LR3 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specification or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British and in this video we want to introduce you to the belt replacement kit that's part of our repair and maintenance academy for the LR3. This is the V8 4.4. Now when you go on our website you can access this sheet which you can even download and make copies of. You'll see a recommendation of every 105,000 miles for the belt change kit, belt change kit part number PQR500300SKA. And what you're going to receive in that kit is both the primary belt and the secondary belt for the serpentines. Now, over a period of time, these belts can dry out, dry crack, and lose their ability to grab onto a pulley, as well as they can when they are new. All of this can affect performance. This can also create a breakdown should the belt decide to snap or lose a chunk out of the belt. So, again it is something you do. It's considered regular maintenance. It's a wearable item and you definitely want to do them every 105,000 miles. And we're going to show you how to install these belts on your vehicle.Okay, so we've shown you how to access and remove the belt. Once the belt is out, check the pulleys, put your new belt back in. As I've said, you basically make a reference so that you know which, how the routing goes. And then simply reassemble it - just the opposite of how we've taken this apart. It's relatively easy, it just all bolts back on. We're going to rebolt the bracket. You're going to put your tensioner on, your front belt, the shroud goes right back into place, pops in, and you're set and ready to go. So when you're ready to change the belts over on your 4.4 AJ engine LR3, and as I say this covers from 2005 all the way up to 2009, give our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
ARB talks about the new ARB601 Digital Tire Inflator. ARB manufactures Bull Bars, winch compatible replacement front bumpers, ARB rear bumpers with tire carriers, ARB roof racks, ARB Air Locker locking differentials and covers, ARB Rock Sliders, side rails and steps, ARB Freezer Fridges, ARB Air Compressors, ARB Snatch Blocks, ARB Snatch Straps / tow straps, ARB Tree Savers, ARB rooftop tents and awnings. ARB is also the manufacturer of Old Man Emu (OME) Customized Suspension Systems and is the exclusive distributor for IPF Lighting Products and Safari Snorkels in North, Central and South America. For more information, please visit
ARB601. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. This is a new ARB 601 tire inflator. A lot of features and benefits you might miss at first glance. It's actually a year of R&D; went into this to make it as good as it could be. I would say it's probably the leader in the category. Looking at the gauge it uses two triple A batteries. Give you about 200 hours of use out of there. It has several indicators, bar and PSI being a couple we'd use here, battery indicator on the front. It's backlit so at night you can see it. One of the features I really like is the long braided hose. This is really useful when you hook on to your valve stem you actually stand up to pressurize your tires or to let tire pressure down. You don't actually have to stay crouched. There's a button on the side here you can use for letting air out of the tire. All cast features, robust paddle here and on the end a very aggressive Chuck to hang on to that belt. If you like to learn more about this unique tire inflator please click on the link below.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to access and replace the water pump on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. A common replacement item,
water pump part # STC4378OE includes a new gasket. Please note: This How-To Video applies to and is also valid for a 1997 Defender 90, 1995 - 2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995 Range Rover Classic, vehicles with 4.0 / 4.6 Bosch or GEMS engine. Kit # STC4378OE Replacing the Water Pump on 1999-2004 Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on a common item that's replaced on the 4.0 and 4.6 engines, both BOSCH and GEMS. It would be the water pump. They can fail in several different ways, one being either an outer seal leak, bearing wear out, or an impeller wear out. So we're going to touch base on replacement of the water pump and show you this is something that you can do yourself and in your driveway. This is a relatively easy repair. Now we offer several different water pumps, each at different levels. All are proper fit to your vehicle. You want to check with your salesman and find out what would best suit your purposes and suit your needs on your vehicle. So what we are going to do is we're going to basically show you how to access the water pump and then I'm going to use this front cover to give you a closer bird's eye view of what you're going to be dealing with when you do the changeover. for the Discovery 2, 1999 to 2004. Then it's just a matter of re-install your lower hose, put your fan and your belt back on, put your shroud on, and you're good to go. So again, when you're ready to change over the water pump on your vehicle, and I said this will work on any of the 4.0 or 4.6, both GEMS and BOSCH, which would be your P38 Range Rover, Discovery 1, Discovery 2, late Classic and your Defender 90 as well. So give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the
alternator for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009. This replacement is also similar on the LR3 V8 4.4L and the Range Rover Full Size with the Jag engine. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #: YLE500390 Replace / Install Alternator Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport SuperchargedHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about alternators. Now something that I've seen come up on a pretty regular basis lately on some of the Sports and the LR3s is a failure of the alternator. Actually a failure of the diode in the alternator. And some of the most common systems of what I'm getting on the phone calls is an intermittent lighting of the battery warning light on the dashboard, and a sudden increase in the noise from the cooling fan. And essentially what happens is when the diode goes it induces an AC current into the system that the body control module basically interprets as energize the front fan. And so it will sound louder than you will normally hear it. So those are 2 of the symptoms that are starting to show up on a pretty regular basis. A lot of these vehicles are getting older. They're hitting the high miles. These alternators have seen 130 150 some of them 190,000 miles and it's starting to affect them. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install an alternator on this from underneath. I know in the service manual the installation is a little more involved. We have some tricks to show you that will help you speed that up. And there's something else to look for while you're working in that general area. So let's get started. All right, so, right off the bat the first thing we want to do is disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Before I do that, and before you even get started, I did want to show you a tool that you're going to need to be able to release the belt tension you got to take off in order to be able to access to alternator. And this is similar, there are other models out there, but it's similar design, basically just a long thin bar with a 12 point cut out on the end of it. They'll come with different sockets for the sizes. You'll need a 15 mm on this. This particular application is going to basically apply to both the Sport and the LR3. Same design as the 4.4 engine. And then on some vehicles, and we may find we need to do it on this, there's essentially a plate that adapts to different angles on this and then is held in place by a bolt. That will give you an access angle that will get up to the tensioner to slip the belt off. We're not going to take the belt off completely. All we need to do is get it off the alternator. All right, we're going to start with disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. You have 2 tabs in the front that hold this cover down. Pop that out of the way. Simply pull that out. Negative lead is going to be the one closest to the back of the vehicle. It's a 13 mm. You can do it with a pair of pliers if you want. You just need to loosen that a turn or 2.As you can see you have 1 up there. You have the idler in the back. And on the power steering pump. And on the AC compressor. That all looks really good. So, we release the tension. Pop all this out. Make sure you get your tool out of that tensioner. Most times as I say I pop it out and sure enough it leaves that little extension in there. Always check that. Make sure you don't leave any under the hood. So essentially at this point your alternator is in. And all we're going to do now is put back the side cover that has the 4 plastic rivets, the front panel here. And the splash pan. And what I probably suggest you do at this point before you go putting all that back on, drop it down and start it up and make sure everything is working right and also make sure, put a volt meter across the battery. Make sure that unit is charging. But you should be good at this point. And this should take care of both that intermittent battery light and that noisy front fan. So when you're ready to install the alternator on your Sport or LR3, and I will say that the LR3 and Sport without the Supercharger is a little bit easier because there isn't so much plumbing in the way, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit #
LR097165GK, which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1997 Defender 90. Using our
Coolant Hose and Thermostat Kit, which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Kit #: 9373SKB Replacing Coolant Hose & Thermostat On Defender 90, 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in the video we're going to touch base on the coolant system service for your 1997 Defender 90 as part of your maintenance and service program. Now I want to show you the kit first. And the kit will include your upper and lower radiator hose. Your heater hoses. Your short stub hose off the front of the engine. Your bleeder screw for your one hose to bleed the system out when you're done. New O ring. Thermostat and thermostat gasket. Now the coolant doesn't come with this. We generally don't supply coolant. It's hard to ship so you can get that through your local supplier, any automotive center will have the proper coolant for this. You do want to use the orange oats technology coolant in this vehicle. It's what's recommended for use by Land Rover. Do not use the green ethyl glycol. Now what we're going to do is give you the basics and show you the locations of these hoses, and some tech tips on how to install. So, essentially what will do now is at this point is we're going to top it off with coolant, we're going to let it bleed down, we're going to start the vehicle. And we can start it without the fan. Just going to run it for about a minute. All we want to do is essentially run it for a minute, shut it down, check for any leaks because now is the time to do it, while you have easy access to your connections. If everything looks good, put your fan, your belt and your shroud back in place, which is just the opposite of your removal and you're ready to go on down the road. So, when you're ready to change over the hoses on your Defender, Discovery or any other Land Rover, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the Curt Manufacturing Bolt-On Trailer Hitch Receiver
LH13243 on a 2014 Range Rover Sport. Doug will show you torque specs for this Class 3, 8,000 Pound Rated Bolt-On Hitch Receiver. He will also direct a focus on customizing the lower cover panel to make room for the hitch receiver. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # LH13243 Installing Bolt-On Towing/Trailer Hitch Receiver by Curt Manufacturing On 2014 Range Rover Sport SuperchargedHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to show you a trailer hitch that we are now carrying for the new Land Rover Sports. This is the body style that they changed over from the old L320, 2014 and up. And this is nice because this is basically custom built for that particular body style. So it's an easy bolt in application. And what you're going to get is the hitch itself. You can see this is a good heavy frame. Built very well. Good paint job. Good coverage on it. You've got hardware kit. You can see that hardware also very heavy duty. And it's got quite a good capacity to it. This is actually rated for up to an 8,000 pound trailer with 800 pound tongue weight. And it is a class 3 so it's got the 2 inch opening on it. So, now that we've shown you this and as I've said it's an easy application, we're going to show you how to install it. Now, before we begin, what I'm going to do is show you the instructions that come with this. And mostly because in the very beginning they do give you a little breakdown on the tools that you're going to need to install it. So we've pulled them out here. And essentially what we've got is a 3/8th drive torque wrench with a 10 millimeter socket. Half inch drive torque wrench. 15/16th socket. 15/16th open end combination wrench. Ratchet. Philips screw driver. And a small straight blade screw driver. And this is basically what you're going to need. And there's also a, there's a little trimming that we'll be done on one of the lower panels. And we have a dremel tool, we're going to use that, and that's actually shown in the instructions but of course you can use basically anything else that's going to cut plastic. So first step is going to be to remove this panel, which really isn't all that much. You're going to use the straight blade screw driver we were talking about. Or, if you don't have one handy, a quarter works just as well. And you can just insert it in that. Going to turn that 90 degrees to the left. And it will just pop down and pop out. And you can see the lower panel we're going to need to remove.And then all we need to do is put the upper panel on and we're ready to go. So, we've put our upper panel back in. Just remember you need to slide it up and then there's a center tab right here that's going to pop into the lower panel. And that actually will hold it all up in place. Just put your 2 screws in again. 90 degrees locks them in. And that's it. You're done. You can see very little of the hitch in the back. The majority of it being hidden up. Looks nice and clean. Still has plenty of ground clearance. So, when you're ready to install a good quality hitch on your 2014 and up Land Rover Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, discuss the installation of the bolt-on trailer hitch receiver, Part # LR019990ABP, for all late-model Land Rovers including LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Doug will give the correct torque specs that are important for the proper installation of this hitch receiver.
Part # LR019990ABP Tips for Installing the Bolt-On Trailer Hitch Receiver For All Late-Model Rovers Including LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport, Range Rover Supercharged. New - includes torque specs. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to talk about an alternative we have to the factory trailer hitch receiver. What you'll see here is this heavy bracket that's a simple bolt on operation. Will meet the same towing specs. It's not going to reduce the specifications on what you're vehicle can tow. It's a simple bolt on operation. And then once you have this, and then of course your trailer wiring harness in place you'll be ready to tow with your LR3 or your Sport. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to install it, what the proper way to install this is. And how it's going to look once it's mounted on your vehicle. All right, so before we begin we're just going to give a quick rundown on the tools you're going to need to install this. Which isn't really a whole heck of a lot. Now you'll see an impact gun. If you have access to compressed air that's great, if not you can use a long handle half inch drive ratchet. You have a 7/8ths deep socket, 3/4 inch combination wrench, 7/8th combination, a little hard blade scraper, wire brush, straight blade screw driver, and then this would be the most important tool you're going to have out of the bunch. This is a torque wrench, click type. You're going to need this to install because we have a specific torque that needs to be applied on these bolts to make sure that this is locked down properly. So if you don't have a torque wrench, I would suggest either buy one, or you could go to one of these automotive centers where they'll rent or sometimes even let you borrow a tool to do a specific job. So you want to keep that in mind because we are going to be talking about that when we bolt that up: what those specific torques are and how to set them up. So first thing we're going to do, well the first thing you'll notice, we've lowered the spare tire and that's going to give us better access to the bolt in the back here. So we'll take a straight blade screw driver. And you can actually pop these off by using a side of a quarter. Just pull that down. And that comes down out of the way. Now you'll see we all ready have the trailer harness installed, so now we're just going to be adding the hitch.You got 4 clips on top. And they just run up in those slots. I'm going to run the...Take the 2 retainers, you should see basically the slot is going to be straight up and down. And that will pop right into the, into the nuts. We'll close that down and this way you only really need to take this off, is to plug in your trailer wiring connection. And that's it. We're all set. Ready to go. We'll drop it down. Spare tire back up in place, ready to go. So when you're ready to order your bolt on trailer hitch receiver you can contact anyone of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and do your order online. And if you like our how to videos, I would suggest click on this link and you can subscribe to our YouTube site and watch all our videos. So for now we thank you, and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install
ARP Engine Head Bolts using Kit ARP4301 on a 4.0/4.6 Engine. ARP Head Stud Kits Replacing Standard Engine Head Bolts with The ARP Engine Head Stud Set On 4.0/4.6 EnginesHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on an option you have if you're building your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6. And essentially what it is is a replacement set of studs instead of head bolts. Now you know a lot of the newer engines have the torque to yield head bolts, which you see a lot on now aluminum block, aluminum head engines. You're dealing with a high expansion and contraction rate which is why you need that style. But you find if you look, is you see a racing engine torn down, a lot of them will have studs. And studs are a little bit more secure. They cost a little bit more, but they definitely do a better job. So we're just going to give you a brief run down on what you would need to do to install the kit. Now we do stock for these. That's the ARP4301. Great kit. Comes with the studs. Comes with the nuts. And comes with the washers. So, we're going to demonstrate this on a nice new block. But you would normally do your prep work. Of course, clean out each hole, make sure your threads are clean. Run a chaser down there. Make sure they're all cleaned and lubed. With the studs though, what you're going to do is instead of putting a dab of oil on that you would normally do on the head bolts, because the studs are inserted and they're going to be stationary, you're going to take just a dab of thread lock. You can buy these at any parts center. And it just takes 1 or 2 drops. And you just want it so it locks the stud in place. Now you'll notice the nut is designed to be a 12 point. You would use a 5/8ths or a 16 millimeter 12 point socket. You want one in half inch drive so that you can torque these down once you get it together. And you'll also notice that you have a coarse thread on one side, fine thread on the other. The coarse thread obvious goes into the block. The fine thread remains up top for the nut. Now you'll also have 6 studs that will be longer than these and they are going to be in the top 3 center holes. You'll notice that when you take it apart, your head bolts. You're going to have 3 larger than the rest of them on each side. So, make sure you keep note of that when you go to put this together. So essentially all you're really going to need to do, you can do this one of two ways as far as installing it. You can run a nut down on one of the studs. We'll take a little bit of the. And just say you'll only need like a little drop. That's all it takes. We'll run the stud into the whole. And we're just going to bottom it out until it comes to the shaft of the stud so that it will stop at the point. And you'll notice that I don't even need a driver. In some cases you may. You don't need to have them real tight. You just need to snug them. And you can do that with either a stud puller or stud remover which will slide down over the stud and look like a socket. Or just use the socket itself on the nut. And that's all you really need to do. Just lock that in. We'll run the nut out. Let me get a ratchet and we'll put that on there.Reason I do that because most of your larger half inch won't go down or are not accurate at a 35 foot pound reading, where the smaller 3/8ths drive is. So we'll do the same thing as we did on the head. Basically we're going to start here. Go to this. Go to this. And go to this. And then one more time down the row just to make sure everything's squarely torqued. Alright. So here's the finished product. You can see studs in place. Nice neat appearance. Plus the fact is it's definitely a more secure set up than the torque to yield head bolts. So, this is something you might want to recommend, I would recommend that you do if you're doing a head gasket change over. Or you're doing an engine rebuild. You want to hold onto the vehicle for a while. This is the route to go. It's really worth the extra money. So when you're ready to do this to your 4.0 or 4.6 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
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Learn the differences between BOSCH and GEMS V8 engines found in Land Rover Discovery I, Discovery II and Range Rover models. Jim shows how to determine whether your Land Rover is equipped with an ACE suspension. The video also shows how to change a pollen filter on a Range Rover and highlights key vehicle components.
Watch Jim explain the differences between two popular fuel pumps (with or without pressure sensor) for Land Rover Discovery Series 2, 1999 - 2004 models.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the difference between front brakes installed on a Range Rover Sport Supercharged, 2006-2009 that is equipped with the Brembo brake calipers, as opposed to those front brakes on a Non-Supercharged Sport or LR3. Doug will then show you the steps involved in removing and replacing with new brake pads and rotors (and new brake pad sensor).
Ever wonder which vehicle your favorite Land Rover Expert calls his own? Watch Jim as he introduces you to his beloved 1971 Land Rover Series IIA. Stay tuned at the end of the video for a peek at our Land Rover Series chassis, in stock and ready to ship to your home or shop!
How to remove the side mirror on your Discovery II. Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to remove the side mirror on a Discovery Series II vehicle. Jim also provides some tips on how to best replace the glass mirror.
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential and transfer case service ( using
complete kit # DTCM100A ) on a 2005-2009 LR3. For non-electronic (open) differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100A and for electronic differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100B. In this video, Doug explains the difference between electronic and open (non-electronic) differentials, and will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential and transfer case, and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 75,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Kit #: DTCM100A / DTCM100B Performing Differential & Transfer Case Service on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to do is touch base on the transfer case and differential drain and refill kit we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy program. Now what you'll be receiving is enough fluids to change the fluid in your front and rear differential and your transfer case. Now in the LR3, that came with both a open or standard differential or it came with an electronic locking differential. And you should be able to get the information off the original window sticker or you can even tell by looking underneath the vehicle. You'll see the difference with the differential has a motor, an electronic motor attached to it. You'll see some wiring. You'll see a harness going to the rear diff. If it does not have that harness you have whats called the open differential. So vehicles equipped with open differential you're going to get 3 bottles of gear oil for the differentials, you're going to get 2 bottles of transfer case fluid and new drain plugs and fill plugs with seals so that when you are done and you put the new plugs in there you'll see that they are teflon coated and sealer coated, you'll end up so you don't get any leaks out of the system. If you have the electronic, then you're going to use the second kit which will have 2 bottles of differential gear oil, 2 bottles of transfer case gear oil and 2 bottles of electronic locking rear diff fluid. And be careful you want to make sure that you've checked and you know which rear differential you have so you use the proper fluid. Now this is a maintenance that even Land Rover recommends. You should do this every 75,000 miles. This is a sheet that you can go on our website and you can copy and download for your own information. You'll see everything listed on both kits. And you'll also see the listing on it which will tell you whether it is for the open diff or for the electronic rear. So we're going to take a minute and we're going to put an LR3 up in the air and we're going to show you the location of your drain and your fill plugs. Alright, so now we're ready to change our fluid in our front and rear differentials and our transfer case. Now we've already removed the steel pan underneath the engine oil pan. It's just 10 bolts, 13 millimeter heads, all the way around. Drop the pan and we move that out of the way. And what that does is exposes the drain plug right here for the front differential. Now this will basically be between frame rails, and at the very bottom, a good size plug. And when you're done draining - and that's all you're basically going to do. You're going to take your plug out. Let it drain. Give it a little bit of time because it is relatively thick fluid. So bring it down to a point when you just get a drip every now and then. You know you've gotten as much as you can out of there. Now the fill plug is a little awkward to get at. You've got your support plate on the outside, or driver side of the differential. And then you have your 2 attaching bolts here at the bottom. Above the bolt, in the front of the 2, and just above the bracket, there's a small allen head plug that's threaded into the case, that's going to be your fill plug. Probably the best way to get up into that is if you have a suction gun and put a smaller hose on the end of that or attach a smaller hose because it's a relatively small hole. It's only maybe 9 to 10 millimeters. So that's the best way to refill it. So that will take care of the front diff. Again that's just a drain and refill. Now as we move down to the transfer case, you'll find your drain plug directly on the bottom. Again this is an allen. I think this is, I believe this is an 8 millimeter allen. Take this out, let it drain, let it get down to the last drop. Then when you're ready to refill, you put that plug back in, and then there's your fill plug right there. Now again I'm going to recommend - you have listed capacities for all these fluids. Don't assume that the bottom of that fill is going to be the proper height. Always check in your book, look at your capacities. Fill it to that amount and that amount only. Now we're going to move back to the rear axle. We're at the rear axle now. Now this is what they call an open diff. It's just a standard rear differential. If this was the electronic locking there would be an additional motor on the side. You would see a small wiring harness going to it. That's the easiest way to identify whether you have the locking or non locking rear axle. Now regardless of which one it is you still have just drain plug on the bottom. We're going to let as much fluid drain out of there as possible. And then your fill plug will be up higher. It's a smaller plug, towards the back of the differential case on the passenger side. And again, fill to the capacity recommended in the book. Don't just assume that the bottom line is going to be the proper fill height. And that's pretty much it. It's going to change over those fluids. Now it is a recommended service because over a period of time. Now the differentials and the transfer case are all vented. And because they are vented you can get condensation build up in the system. They're not sealed from humidity. So water in those systems, eventually if they should build up can absolutely damage bearings and definitely the performance of those components. Do the regular maintenance now, save yourself a lot of money in the long run. So, when you're ready to change over your differential fluid and your transfer case, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen, they'll be happy to help you, at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he walks you through the intuitive iCarSoft LR II system. This video showcase the V.1.0 model tool. The latest version is the
V.2.0 Diagnostic Tool and is very similar in form and function to V.1.0 (with a few more functions, bells and whistles!) iCarsoft Multi-system Scanners support full system diagnosis for Land Rover vehicles. They enable technicians and Do-It-Yourselfers to accurately diagnose complex problems. Multi-system Scanner supports full system diagnosis. It’s a powerful diagnostic tool. An Overview Using The LR II Multi-System Diagnostic Tool by iCarsoft (LR-II) For Land Rover & Jaguar Vehicles (2nd Generation)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going to do is touch base on a diagnostic tool that we carry in our line. The iCarSoft LR II. Now this is a tool that's come out that's specifically designed to access Land Rover modules, and not just your OBD II, but can also get into ABS, your air suspension if you have the later models that are equipped with that, actually a number of modules depending on which vehicle or which Land Rover you're working on. So just to give you basics, we've got this unit plugged in. This is the screen that's going to come up. And this is with the ignition key on. You're going to let the vehicle go through its self test. Most of the newer Land Rover vehicles go through an initial self test. Only takes a few seconds. We're plugged in, and we have power. Now before we get into the modules, I just want to give you an idea of some of the other capabilities of this. If we scroll over to settings, you have an up down side to side arrows. We'll hit okay. And with this you can change the language, the unit of measure, and even turn the beeper on and off. So say we go to unit of measure, and hit okay. You can either go to metric or imperial. We can back out of that. As far as language you can see it actually will translate to a number of different languages. So we're going to leave it up in English. And we hit escape to back out. And we do that again. Now on the help side, this gives you a lot of information. First line is going to tell you initially give you the location of your diagnostic link connector is located. Then below it we have the DTC library, which you can type in the codes that you're getting and it will give you the definition. It will look that unit up. We'll hit escape. What it will also do is explain abbreviations. So when you get into some of the live data, you're going to see explanations or abbreviations. So say we go to ECT, we want to find out what that is. It will tell you it's a coolant temperature sensor. It will tell you how it's normally displayed. Here it will run from minus 40 to 215 degrees Celsius. Or minus 40 to 419 degrees Fahrenheit. And again it will tell you many of the diesel engines, they don't include this sensor. So, again it gives you good information on what you're looking at. So we'll hit escape and back out of that. And we'll hit that again. Tool information is simply going to tell you what software you have in here. Serial Number of the unit. Registration Code which you may need later on if you're going to do updates. Which you can do on these without having to send these in.Heating and ventilation. Basically run on down the line. So when you just get to the one that you're looking for. Let's look at transfer box. Again we'll look at, okay. And essentially this is going to give you versions. We'll scroll down to data stream. And basically just on that particular transfer case there's 4 different functions you can view. So this gives you an idea essentially of what this is capable of doing. This does not do any programming. But it will help you keep you from chasing your tail trying to figure out what's going on with your Land Rover without having to spend a lot of money on parts that maybe you don't really need. This tool will at least help you work your way in and pinpoint what the problem is, or at least give you the fault codes which, based on the technology on today's vehicles you need to, otherwise you'll just be chasing your tail trying to figure out what's wrong with them. So, when you're in the market for a reader, and you'll find that this is very reasonably priced compared to what it will do, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to set you up with one of these. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the Differential and Transfer Case Service (using our complete
Kit # DTCM100A) on a 2006-2009 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. For non-electronic (open) differential vehicles use Kit # DTCM300A and for electronic differential vehicles use Kit # DTCM300B.
In this video, Doug explains the difference between electronic and open (non-electronic) differentials and will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential, transfer case and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 60,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Questions about these kits or service? Call us toll free 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug present an overview of what is under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size L322, 2006 - 2009, with a 4.2 Supercharged engine. He'll also show you the locations of most of your fluid fill points and other items of interest. This is the same as the 4.4 naturally-aspirated engine. Doug shows you how to reposition the hood in the full upright position in order to gain better access to the systems under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, introduce the Lynx Diagnostic System for Land Rovers and Range Rovers. In this video overview, Doug highlights the capabilities of this comprehensive tool, which provides a number of programming and specialty functions specific to Land Rover models that you won't find with less comprehensive OBDII code readers. To repair and maintain late model Land Rovers, you need a powerful diagnostic system that communicates with modern vehicle chip-based systems. Lynx offers the best comprehensive solution at a value price! The base Lynx model is our part # DA6430 and the Lynx Pro model is # DA6431.
Introducing LYNX Diagnostics Interface: An Overview - Using The Diagnostic System with RoversHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to introduce to you a new diagnostic tool that we're adding to our line called the Lynx. Lynx is a diagnostic tool that can be made available to read just about any Land Rover across the board, or a single model. Watch you get with the Lynx is the interface component that will connect your vehicle through this interface to a PC / Windows computer. You can use a laptop, regular PC desktop or even any of the newer tablets, as long as they're Windows based. You get a carry case, so you can keep all your components safe. You get a zip drive where you would download the software so that you can put Lynx on your computer. And also your connecting cable that will connect the interface to your PC. Now essentially what this will do is, this can be set up for either a single model, which comes with the unit when you purchase it online. But you can also add other models on should you have more than 1 Land Rover or are looking to upgrade in the near future you can add that vehicle to the Lynx. We also have a Pro model which will encompass all the Land Rover models going all the way back to the Classic and the Discover 1s. So this will give you good access to them. Now some of the advantages to this as opposed to a small handheld is one, obviously is you can put this on a bigger screen. By doing so you can put multiple readings up on that screen and be able to view them all at once. And we're going to show you very shortly how you can do that. Now you can also use the PC to store this data if you wanted to save it and go back at a later time and be able to review it, you can do so both on the Lynx or even right on your PC. So there's a lot of advantages to this as well. Plus the fact that with the Lynx it's much easier if you need to take a vehicle out on a road test and you're looking at your live data, you have a rider with you that can monitor all this. And with the bigger screen it's much easier to read, especially when the vehicle's in motion. So all that has its advantages over the handheld.Now you can either get the Lynx unlocked for just the particular vehicle that you own, say a Discovery 2 or an L322, or if you want to look at the Pro version, if you're a shop and you're looking for a tool that will basically cover the whole line, you can go with the Pro version on this. So, this is the Lynx. This is something fairly new. I've had a chance to work with this and I find that this tool will get into just about everything you will need to properly diagnose any of these Land Rovers. So when you're ready for a Lynx, or you're ready for a diagnostic tool so that you can do your own repairs, or if you're a shop looking to be able to have better access to the functions of a Land Rover, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen, 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
As a Land Rover owner, are you confused over terms like "ACE", "DSC" or "Vehicle Dynamic Suspension"? In many ways, these terms all refer to the same basic system, even though Land Rover has decided to change the terminology by vehicle model and year. Listen to our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug, as he explains the various terms and what they mean in relation to Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009 and Range Rover Sport, 2010 - 2013.
Is There A Difference Between The Directional Stability Control (DSC) System, The ACE System or The Dynamic Response System?Hi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. I want to do a short video simply explaining what is ACE. There's been some confusion in the past, and we've had some customers call and wanted to know so we've actually done some previous videos on how to identify whether your vehicle has ACE and exactly what is the system. Now if you have a Discovery 2 and it has ACE, which we did show in the video how to identify that. Essentially all they used was a 2 way hydraulic ram on a split sway bar to help control the vehicle on cornering, to help force a leveling. Uses ACE fluid. Uses a valve block on the passenger side underneath the vehicle. And if you actually look on a previous video we've actually shown you how to do some basic maintenance on that system by replacing the filter and the fluid. Now later on they came out with a similar system in the Range Rover Sports. And that was essentially called Active Stabilization System, or we've even seen it described as Directional Stability Control and even some analyzers have called it Active Roll Control. Essentially they are all the same thing. And what they did was they got away from the 2 way split ram and got into an integral hydraulic motor built into the sway bars, but essentially control the same way. And that's all that ACE is. It's hydraulically controlled sway bars that help level your vehicle on cornering. Again the procedure for the maintenance on the Sport will be the same as the Discovery which is simply filter replacement and some fluid. I hope that clarifies what ACE is. If you have any further questions you can contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to point you in the right direction on what you need to do the maintenance on your ACE system. Just a footnote we wanted to put in. You may have also heard the term Vehicle Dynamic Suspension. Doesn't apply to the Land Rover Sport. It is another system used in the full size Land Rover and it utilizes the air suspension to help reduce body roll. There is no hydraulic roll bar as there is in the Sport and D2. So we just wanted to make sure we had that clear, that you may have heard that term, but it does not apply to the Sport, nor does it apply to the D2. That should just about wrap that up. Wait a minute, wasn't this a Defender?
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains a second step in approaching getting rid of the 3 Amigos on your Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will remove and replace the
ABS Modulator Valve Kit part # SWO500040. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # SWO500040 Install ABS Modulator Valve Kit On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about maybe the second step, or a better step in approaching getting rid of the 3 amigos on your vehicle. Now again we've stated any ABS fault is going to activate the 3 amigos which is essentially your ABS, your hill descend and your traction control lights on your dash. But, you use the fault codes to find out that in fact it is shuttle valve circuits that are creating the problem. Now everybody refers to this as shuttle valves which in essence it's not the shuttle valve itself but it is the shuttle valve actuator. And this is the 2 actuators that plunge and operate the 2 valves. In addition to that though, you have this intermediate block which also has all the solenoids that activate and pull the valves open on the system. Now what happens is should we get a little brake fluid in there, or just due to exposure, the 2 pin connectors inside that block which plugs into the shuttle valve actuator can get some corrosion on it, as well as the connectors here. So after inspection and you find you see some corrosion in there or you've pulled the shuttle valves apart and I know there are some test out there you can test these to determine if they are good or bad, that you may want to do the 2 piece set which we have as a kit. So you might want to look into that. What we're going to do is going to show you we've already shown you how to install the shuttle valve itself without disconnecting the brake lines. You can refer back to our video on that. But what we're going to do now is show you how to install this intermediate block. This also doesn't include removing the brake lines which you basically can get around. I'm going to show you how to do that. So right away you'll notice that the solenoid block doesn't have any hydraulic lines going to it. So we actually should be able to replace this without having to disconnect any of the lines. Before we do that though we need to lift this block so that we can unbolt the shuttle valve actuator underneath because that actually attaches electrically to the bottom side of this solenoid block. So first what we do is start off with push that tab and we pull the 2 electrical connectors. There's a little squeeze tab on the backside of this lower one. And that pulls that out. And get that out of the way. And even though it's really not necessary we'll take the brake fluid level connector off just to move that out of the way just so we know we're not going to damage the wiring. It's good to move that and get that clear. So you have 3 10 millimeter nuts. The back ones you'll need to remove. The front one is in a slotted hole so all we need to so with that is essentially just loosen it. And probably about 4 or 5 turns and that should give us enough slack to remove that.You can determine basically how hard they were to get out will help determine how much torque to put on them putting them back in. And generally I did it by hand and it works fine for me. But you may want to gauge how tight they are by how tight they were coming off. Alright just to finish things off you're going to make sure top put your 2 electrical connectors back on. Plug in your brake fluid level connector. And at that point you're done. You didn't brake the lines open so we don't have to bleed the system. You may want to clear the codes out of the ABS module. If you don't have that capability actually what it will do is, it won't necessarily clear the code, but it will keep the light off if it sees that the system is functioning properly at this point. If you should still end up with issues with the 3 amigos and they still come up as shuttle valve codes, then more than likely you're going to need the hydraulic unit. But we find for the majority of vehicles out there, this repair takes care of it. So when you're ready to take care of your shuttle valve issue, and you find you need the extra component that this kit will help fix it for you, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, install the cylinder head used on a 5.0 Liter 2012 Land Rover LR4. Gareth also covers the 4 stages of torque specs for installation. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today we're going to be doing a reinstall of a cylinder head on a five liter LR4 vehicle. The vehicle's age is a 2012. This is the cylinder head we took and removed off of the engine due to severe mechanical damage due to the timing jumping. It bent all the valves in this cylinder head. It's been to the machine shop now returned to us and my job is to reinstall it back on the engine and ensure we get the timing correct and up and running again. We're just showing you the head on the bench right now. The exhaust manifold has been refitted. I'm gonna be reinstalling it. You'll see it probably next when it's actually installed on the engine as it's quite a heavy unit. Sometimes it can take two people to actually put the head back on the car with the exhaust manifold on because it's kind of hefty as it were. As you see the cams are removed at this time. That is because the cylinder head bolts go through the cam carriers and the bearings go on top once the cams re-installed. Of course we can't put the head on and turn it down with the cams in it. We'll do all of that and I'll go through the process of tightening sequence and the two different types of cylinder head bolts that you may possibly have on your engine. Okay so we have the cylinder head mounted to the engine at this point. It's mounted with the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head otherwise you'll never get to get the manifold mounted with the head already mounted on it. There's ten cylinder head bolts. It's an M10 cylinder head bolt. It's a stretch bolt. There is two different types of cylinder head bolts - there's an M11. There is difference in length of about two or three millimeters and different in shape also. I've actually already tightened three, well, just run three bolts down. I'm gonna run the rest down until they're all mated to the cylinder head surface and then we're going to start with the cylinder head tightening sequence. As you can see I've printed out the sheet here. Starting in the middle of the cylinder head one, two, three, four, working around the clock. The first stage of tightening is at 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meter. Third-stage 90 degrees, the last stage, stage four 120 degrees. Right so now I'm gonna start off the first round of torque tightening. The torque wrench is set, I believe it was 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters. I'm going to start at the middle - number one and then literally two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten and we'll let it settle for a minute and then start the second round at 35 Newton meters and then we'll start the torque angle procedure. So I'm at the stage where we're gonna torque to 90 degrees. My degree wheel on the tool locked in place, started, zero it out every time. I'm going to turn to 90 degrees. It's pretty straightforward job. Run it down to the first 90. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then I'm gonna run it down to the second, final stage of stretch which is 120 degrees and we'll take off again when we get to the 120. Start with the 90 right now. Now we have 90 degrees. Take the tool out, start on the next bolt and keep going round in the clockwise manner that it requests in the workshop manual. Okay, so the first stage of the stretch bolts was 90. I've covered all ten. I'm gonna start the last and second stage of 120 degrees and video a couple. I'll go through the rest and we'll start off again when we're about to mount the camshafts. There's the first one at 120 I'm gonna take it out and move it to the next stop, step. So all 10 cylinder head bolts have been tightened down to torque spec. We have the tool for the cylinder head bolts. It's kind of got a long shank on it. It is not quite a Torx bit. It's a special order. We carry them in stock here. It comes with the nylon sheath to stop any damage to the cylinder head especially when you're cranking on it. Literally sits like that. Okay so now the cylinder head bolts are tightened. We can install the camshafts. They're quite definable from side to side intake and exhaust and exhaust here intake here. As you can see it's got the extra hurt lobes on it for the variable, the high lift on the intakes. I'm just going to mount them in loosely for now. Get the cam caps and tighten them down. Of course you can't talk the head until the cams are out as you can see them install through underneath the carriers for the bearings of the camshafts. So I'll install these loosely, put the caps on and we'll torque them down to spec. So I'm gonna run the bolts all the way down till they seat. Just initial contact and then I'm gonna start to tighten them down evenly right the way across the camshaft so we don't have any issues of a tight cam or anything and take a quick break. I've got to get the specs for torquing of these screws and we'll be back. Okay so both the cams are installed. They are pinched, not torque tightened yet. They're just pinched down into place. I loaded the cams in the head so that they were as close as they could be to being timed up. After I torque them I'm gonna turn the cams manually, put the cam locks in and then I'm gonna start on the install of all the timing chains, tensioners and guides. We've been through that before but we can go over it again. The main thing was to show install of the cylinder head, torquing the head bolts, torquing in the new cam well, the reinstalling of the cams and the cam caps. I'll go ahead and run up to the office area and pick up the torque specs for these and then we'll be back and do a quick torque sequence of the camshafts. Okay so the torque spec settings for these bearing cap screws are 11 Newton meters which is 8 pounds feet, and about 97 pounds inches. The sequence one, two, three, four, five. Same on the exhaust caps, same torque specs. So I'm gonna torque those down and then turn the cam so I can put the cam timing lock tools into position and then start building up the timing gears, put the variators on, put the chains on and time up the engine. [inaudible] The back ones are a little bit awkward to see and get to. The front ones are easier to see and get to. 11. 11. A fraction over 12. A little bit more difficult to see these back ones. 11. All set. So camshafts are all torque tightened to spec. Next thing I'm going to do is turn them, put the cam locks in, and again, like I say, start on timing up the cams. That's pretty good. This is gonna be the awkward one to get to. A little bit horizontal. Okay so we just wanted to give you an idea of torquing with cylinder heads, with the engine installed. That cylinder head I mounted a little bit prior of course. You didn't actually see that. It's a little awkward, especially with the extra weight of the exhaust manifold on it but it can be done. The torque specs again 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters, 90 degrees, 120 degrees. Pretty straightforward. The cams are in and mounted, torqued to 11 Newton meters starting with the front bearing caps working your way back. I've actually already put in the cam lock so the cams are timed, ready for the timing chains and variators to be installed. That's about all we have - mounting and installing the cylinder head. Pretty straightforward.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the rear shocks on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Hi I'm Gareth your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on a 2005 L322. It's in need of new rear shock absorbers. We're going to be installing these new Bilstein replacement shock absorbers here that we sell. The mount, the top mount, is held on by three studs and three nuts up underneath the carpet which will show you momentarily. The rear, sorry, the lower mount is bolted with a big long bolt through the lower control arm of the vehicle. So like I said a short while ago we're replacing the shock absorbers because the lower bushing in the shock absorber itself is blown out on this side. Literally totally, the rubber casing is separated from the steel sleeve. If you want to get the closer look you can see here how it's almost off of the bolt at this point here. So the first job is to pull out the load space area cover. Ss you can see I'm kneeling on the spare tire here. These shocks do look like they've been replaced once before. This car does have a few miles on it. The carpet has already been removed once. But if you can lift the carpet up without too much damage or take off a few of the brackets that would be a good start. The nuts that hold the top of the shock on are a 16 millimeter nut. They are pretty tight so do expect to have to work them a little bit with a breaker bar. I've loosened them off already and I'll be doing, working from both sides of the lower face and the top face in here but we just wanted to show you where the shock mount came through the floor of the car so you can access it easier. Of course the front, sorry, the rear seats the base has to be folded all the way forward to access. So I've set the car up. I've got a jack stand underneath the lower control supporting all the suspension and any, you know, the main suspension components so that will relieve the tension on the shock absorber. I'm going to do it from the inside first so it can move a little freely. I think because the shock absorber is so, the lower bushing is so blown out I'll be able to just pull it off and remove it. Okay so we have the vehicle supported at the lower control arm by the jack stand which relieves the tension on the shock absorber. We're going to undo this nut, I'm going to wire brush it and put some WD-40 on it so we can slacken it off and drive out the bolt that holds the shock absorber to the lower control arm. So I've removed the hardware from inside the vehicle, the three 16 millimeter nuts from the top mount of the billstein, well the old strut. We're going to be putting a new Bilstein strut in there, shock absorber I should say. Because the old bushing is so blown out this thing is just going to literally fall off, off of the lower mount, and I did. And I'm pulling it out gently now, not to hit anything. So this is the old strut. As you can see the bushings totally blown out of it. You can see the old steel shell of the old bushing. We're going to be replacing it as a whole new assembly. The next job for me is to remove the nut, pull the main bolt out that supports everything, install the new one and then remount it at the top. Here we have the bolt removed from the vehicle off the lower control arm. As you can see this is the bushing which is actually part of the shock absorber which totally blew out and as you can see it's all worn away. This is going to be removed and thrown away because it comes with the new shock absorber. This is the bolt that holds everything together. As you can see it's a little bit rusty. I'm actually going to clean it up on the wire wheel here that we're lucky enough to have. Clean up the threads. I'm gonna put some anti-seize compound on the bolt so we don't have to worry about it being serviceable in the future. Everything should come apart it needs to and I'm gonna start reinstalling the new shock absorber. So this is the new shock absorber as I explained before. I'm going to put it down into the suspension assembly first, slide it up into place, hold it on by the three nuts initially loosely, and then mount the lower bolt, and then re secure everything nice and tightly using a bit of anti-seize on the bottom bolt, just so like I say it can be quite easily serviced in the future and then tighten everything up accordingly. This is the awkward part. Okay so we've got the new shock absorber installed, top and bottom, the bolt all cleaned up. I don't know whether you can see it, but it's there, the new bolt, well, old bolt cleaned up, wire brushed, anti-seize the nut on this side right here at the back. As you can see it bit of anti-seize on there. I swung on it with a big breaker bar to make sure it's nice tight and secure. We've wrapped up this side pretty much. The other side exactly the same way. It could be a little work out for you. You might break a sweat from time to time. And after that I'm ready to put the wheels back on and make sure we road test the car, make sure we've got no knocks, rattles, bangs, squeaks. And we should all be good.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will install Clearview Towing Mirrors (part # CV-LR-D34-EB) on our Land Rover LR3.
Kit#:CV-LR-D34-EB Clearview Installing Clearview Towing Mirrors For LR3. Hi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to cover our new Clearview mirrors for the LR3. We want to show you the installation. It's a little bit different from LR4 and from the Sport so we're going to show you in a little more detail. These are really nice mirrors that extend out. Great for trailering. Even if you want to replace the original mirrors for better viewing behind the vehicle, they're a great addition to the vehicle. Let's show you how to put them on, and show you what they look like. So just a quick rundown on the tools you're going to need to make the changeover. One you're going to need a number 2 phillips, or for us lazy guys we like to use a little power tool. You have a 10 millimeter and a 7 millimeter quarter inch drive socket. Quarter inch drive ratchet. Quarter inch drive extension. And a little pry tool. And I prefer the vinyl tool so that you don't harm any paint or any vinyl just from popping the door panel off. So let's begin. We're going to start with the 1 tool I forgot to mention a little pocket screw driver. What we're going to do is the Land Rover emblem that's here has to be popped out. That's going to expose a screw behind it. Pop that out. And then behind the door handle, if you raise out, you see a little round piece, we're just basically just going to sneak in underneath it, and that pops out exposing a screw. And we'll take that right out. So then we take our phillips, and we're going to run those 2 screws out. Now even though it looks like a solid piece, This cover right here on the handle needs to come up. Now these are on here pretty tight, so you take your small little screw driver, and just underneath you can get a finger nail in there. Just enough to raise that out.And you can see them. You can actually feel it wiggle back and forth. It will drop right in. That will also line up pretty much all the door pins all the way around and hold this on. So pop it all on. All the way around. Double check that before we put the screws in. So we know the inner door handle works. So now it's just reverse the process of reinstalling the 2 bottom screws, the 4 screws in the handle, the screw in the back behind the Land Rover emblem, and also the screw right behind the door release and then we're going to pop the 2 pieces of trim on. And then when you go to put the handle back on, you have 2 tabs on the top, they drop in first, and then you just pop in the bottom. And that's essentially it. You're done putting you're mirror back on. Now the driver side will be an identical procedure. You should be able to change both mirrors within less than an hour. So it's a really nice change over. And a really nice addition to your LR3. So when you're ready to add your Clearview mirrors onto your 2006 to 2009 LR3, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you'd like you can click on this link and order online. And if you happen to like our video and would like to see more about your Land Rover you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and watch more videos. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform an engine & transmission adaption reset on a 1999-2004 Land Rover Discovery Series II, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed.
iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. How To Use the iLAND App Engine and Transmission Adaption Reset Demonstrated on the Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about adaptions. Or better yet, clearing adaptions. What adaptions are is the control module for the engine and the control module for the transmission. As you drive the vehicle, will adapt to changes in the sensors, changes in your driving habits and essentially adapts to keep the vehicle within a certain efficiency level. So what happens is, should you develop a fault, like a mass airflow sensor or a transmission shift fault or anything else that will affect the drivability of the vehicle. After you've done the repair you need to clear the adaptions. Now I'll just quickly explain in the case of a mass airflow sensor, mass airflow sensor has deteriorated, so what happens is the system has adapted and constantly adapted until it's reached a certain limit it can no longer adapt. And you basically get your fault code. And you have to do a repair. You put the new airflow sensor in it, and what happens now is that's reading correctly, but your still running off the old adaptions and the cars going to run worse than it did before you did the repair, and you're going to think that's not the problem. What you need to do, any time you change O2 sensors, throttle body, throttle position, mass airflow sensor, you should always clear adaptions. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to do that with the new iLAND and how easy it is to do. And it's also very important so keep watching. Alright, so you now the basics. You're going to plug your iLAND in. You have your dongle that you plug into the diagnostic. You go through the basics and then you're going to go to this screen. Now on this screen you'll notice all the vehicles, all the blocks, are in the red. This is because this is the Pro series and we have access to all these different vehicles. If you've purchased an iLAND, you can get for just 1 design vehicle, like in this case say Discovery, it will be just red block on Discovery, the rest will be in white. So we're going to pick our Discovery, We'll go through what the call garage disclaimers. It's telling me we're in the current version, otherwise it would list another version underneath and we would load that in just so we know that we have the latest and the greatest. We'll hit confirm. And it's going to connect with the Bluetooth. And just give it a few minutes or a few seconds actually. It doesn't take that long. Here's our choices. We can go to any one of these Discovery versions. We're in a 1999 Discovery 2. And we'll go to engine. Now essentially all the Discovery 2s are going to be BOSCH motronic. No other system. That's basically the only petrol system they used on these with the 4.0 and later on the 4.6. So we now the ignition is on. The keys on, we can see our lights. Now you've got this listing of all the capabilities. But we're going to go down to vehicle maintenance. Gives you a little warning as far as looking at who should be working on the vehicle. Now here we have reset adaptions. This is very easy where we're going to hit that. It's going to sort of explain what adaptions are. And under what conditions you should be doing this under. Like say basically fuel injector. Lambda sensor, which is essentially O2 sensor. Fuel pump, mass airflow sensor, intake manifold leak or air leak repair. All that can affect adaptions. So then it's going to ask you at the bottom, basically confirm do you wish to reset ECM adaptions. So we're just going to do that. And they've been reset. Just that quickly, just that easy. But now what it has done it has reset all of the initial setting for the ECM back to original factory settings. So we hit OK. And we're all done with that. Then we can back up. And it's usually best that if you do one you should always do the other. It's reasonably easy to do. Just get this to back up here. Maybe it just doesn't like that finger. There we go. So we're back to part of our menu. We're going to go back one more. Ok. So now these are all the different modules we have access to. So we're going to go to auto gear box. Essentially transmission. Ignition is still on. It's going to reconnect. Ok. So now we've connected with the transmission control module. We'll go to vehicle maintenance. We hit Ok. And there right on top is reset adaptions. And we'll hit that. Then again it's going to go through and explain why you would do this and under what conditions. And then at the bottom of course there's your confirmation do you wish to reset ECU adaptions. We'll hit yes. And there you go. Adaptions have been reset successfully. So now we've done both engine and transmission, it didn't even take 5 minutes. So now we'll back up. We'll get back to the main menu. And then of course when you go to do this it will say really quit. We're going to back out of that. And at this point it is a reminder make sure you don't leave the dongle plugged into the diagnostic plug. And we'll hit Ok because we pulled it out. And that's it. That's basically a very easy thing to do. Especially with the iLAND and it's very important to do as you can see under certain repair conditions so that you know when you're done and you restart your vehicle it's going to run right. So, if you're going to get into repairs on your Discovery 2, again that's 1999 to 2004, and you find you need a tool that's going to be able to do the reset for adaptions just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can order your iLAND online at this link. And if you liked our how to video, and would like to see more you can go to our YouTube channel and subscribe and view all our different videos that we've done to help you keep your Land Rover in good order. So thank you for watching. And Rover on.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will go over the installation of the re-flash module to remove dashboard codes after installation of our
coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This same install process also applies to the Land Rover LR3. Part #:7980 EAS Reflash Module Installation Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works On LR3) So when you're done converting your Sport or LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you're going to need to do what's referred to as a reflash, or inline filter. Basically to fool the system so that it will turn off all the warning lights, and the bells and whistles and everything. And everything else will operate. What it also does is it also maintains Terrain Response so you don't lose that. Which is nice. The only thing you do lose is the ability to raise and lower the vehicle at will. So, essentially what you'll be receiving is an EAS reflash unit. Refer to this. it's the 7980. It comes with the box. You'll also have a plug in pigtail. It's got 6 wires off of it that will need to be wired in. We're going to show you how to do that in a few minutes. And that's essentially it. And then through a small process you'll be able to reflash this unit so that you'll be able to drive away without having all the warning lights on. So we're going to start off with showing you how to access and where the location of the right lower control module is because the wiring going into that module is where we're going to be cutting into, and splicing into to make this work. All right, so we have the vehicle started. And you can see the warning lights you have on. Red brake light. The ABS light. The steering angle sensor. The suspension light. And all those are related, especially on these newer vehicles with these networks. They all talk to each other. So, now you've seen the lights. Now we're going to show you the Terrain Response, which the lights are out because it also sees a fault there. All right, so, here's your Terrain Response selector on the center console. And you'll see I'm going to move this bright light away just for a second, and you can see there are no indicator lights on that. So you've essentially lost Terrain Response. And we're going to go through the reflash and get that back. So to get started we're going to need a few basic tools. A straight blade screw driver. Phillips screw driver. I would prefer you use a nylon trim tool as opposed to metal. And then a quarter inch drive ratchet extension. This is a 10 millimeter deep swivel head. You can go with a regular deep with a shorter extension. This is just the set up I like to use. And an 8 millimeter deep quarter inch drive socket. So you start off with taking a straight blade and we're just going to stick that underneath that. This is your foot rest. This pops right off. Now, what that does is that exposes to 10 millimeter nuts that are going to hold this foot pad in place. So we grab our quarter ratchet. And the reason I go with the deep is because you've got probably about 3/4 of an inch of stud past the nut, so a regular socket will be a little to shallow to get all the way on the nut to get it off. So we've got one. Also, 1 more tool you're going to need is going to be a T25 torx driver. There's a torx head bolt that holds the hood release level on.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the process involved in replacing the transmission filter for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
money-saving kit # TRANSM100SKA, which comes with 6 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, transmission filter with gasket and pan, filter plug,and an automatic transmission valve sleeve, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Please Note: While part number LR007474, is used on Range Rover Full Size models, the process for this service differs from LR3 to Range Rover Full Size. Please note that there are parts mentioned in the video not included in the kit that you may want to replace for the service, those part #s are exhaust gasket #WCM100460L and # TYP500050 pan bolts (21 required).
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will explain and resolve the dongle to iPhone (or iPad, iOS) connectivity issue, using the
iLAND Diagnostic App. LAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Hi I'm Doug, I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're gonna touch base on something that's been showing up on our iLAND diagnostic tool specifically with the iOS system if you're trying to hook up with your iPhone or your iPad there has been an issue with some connectivity every once in a while there seems to be a little confliction in the software between the diagnostic part of the dongle and the connection part of the dongle so what we're going to do is we're just going to go through a basic procedure to help you out and essentially what's going to happen is if you get on your your iLAND and you've hooked up to your vehicle and you've gone through the basic the initial startup windows and then you're going to get to the window that actually wants to apply to the vehicle to diagnose or enter into one of the modules and what will happen is you'll get a screen alright so what you end up with is this window it's going to tell you to enter system and then it's going to give you a checklist of reasons why you didn't to get in and essentially what this becomes as a connectivity issue so we're going to show you how to back out of it so you're gonna hit OK and then we're actually going to go back to now you want to make sure also that you have no running apps while you're doing this so we're gonna hit the home button twice and what comes up basically is all your running apps we're going to get rid of let's get rid of everything there and then pull the home screen back up and you're going to go into your iLAND diag app not the normal app that you use to get into your vehicle access so we're going to hit that once you've logged in it's going to go back to this screen and ask you again you're gonna hit dongle again alright so by hitting dongle now there's a serial number from our dongle our dongle is plugged in we got our blue light on so we know that this connected and we're gonna do the firmware upgrade now obviously you want to do this in an area where you have a fairly strong Wi-Fi signal that would work best and then just follow the directions so once it has completed the upgrade now you're going to see box version will actually be filled in so you'll have your active time and your box version and so now what it'll tell you to do so we're gonna get off this we're gonna double click to clear that out and now go back into our diag and here we got so we're in a Discovery II so we're just going to go through our garage confirmations here let it go through the checklist showing we have the we are hooked up dongles connected and we've got the latest firmware so now we'll find out if we can connect to the vehicle let's go through the PCM alright key is on the vehicle dongles in place and so now we have connectivity we can now read fault codes we can get into the modules so that's gonna be the procedure you're gonna follow to get your iPhone reconnected so that you can know so basically the connectivity function that's why you have two icons on your iPhone it's the communication between those two levels of software that creates this problem and now we know how to clear it out so should you run into that issue on your iLAND you can give me a call at 1-800-533-2210 and what I can do is either email you that information or just follow the video and we'll get you back up and running.
A brief overview of the Air-to-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits available for many Range Rover models. If this is something you have been thinking of installing on your Rover, watch this video to learn how to get started. Includes information on part
9520LBHDWB. Air-To-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits For Range Rover VehiclesHi. I'm Chip French. I'm a salesman here at Atlantic British. And if you own a Range Rover you know the expense of maintaining your air suspension system. We've come up with a couple different coil spring conversions for all Range Rovers from 1993 up to the 2006 model. This one here is for the P38, for the vehicle that was built from 1995 to 2002. We use custom made springs, where other companies may use a spring from a different vehicle to fit the Rover, ours are custom bent. We also have machined perches where the springs go on, where other companies use a stamp steel product. We add new bump stops and also the override harness, which will bypass the error messages on your computer. It is very simple to plug in, instead of having to rewire the ECM, which could be expensive if not done correctly. We also have these available in a heavy duty set-up for some vehicles. Check us out on the website or just give us a call.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install a BajaRack Expedition Roof Rack
BAJALR34EXP on an LR3 (can be installed on most vehicles with factory roof rails). BajaRack roof racks were created as rugged storage solutions for the adventurer that likes to go beyond the trail. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to live chat. Part # BAJALR34EXP Install BajaRack For Vehicles With Factory Roof Rails Demonstrated on LR3Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we want to show you one of the three BajaRacks that we have available for the LR3. And they say three because there is actually a couple different versions based on what options are on top of vehicles. Whether it was equipped with side rails or just the trim and the rain gutter. And we'll explain that a little better as we get into the video. So for now what I want to do is show you the hardware kit that comes with this rack. Now the difference between this rack and a standard rack is that this one has the side rails omitted from the backside so that later on you can also add the optional tent and the ladder so that you can take it out camping. With the design with the side rails they won't accept the tent. And we're going to get into that as we get into the video. So for now we're going to show you basically this is the bracket or the hardware set that you're going to have with this unit. This particular rack I'm showing you in this video is part number BAJALR34EXP. Essentially you can do it with just simple tools. About the hardest part of the whole thing is picking it up and putting it on the roof. And one thing I'm going to quickly mention is on the LR3, you go to remember on the roof you have the back half of that roof is a large glass panel. So you want to make sure you put a blanket or coverage on there somehow so that in case you drop a ratchet, you drop a tool or a part, you're not going to end up damaging that glass. So, just something to keep in note. So what we're going to do is we're essentially show you, using these tools, how to mount this rack up in a reasonably quick amount of time. Alright, so this is how you're going to receive this. This is how this unit is packaged. You can see it basically assembled other than the basic hardware. You have a nice heavy duty black finish on it. There's an air deflector in the front to minimize your air noise. And you can see the side rails are omitted off this particular design so that you can add the tent.Total overall height with the vehicle sitting at its normal right height is about 80 inches, which is 6 foot, 8 inch. So it will easily fit underneath even a 7 foot door as opposed to most garage doors being 9 foot. So plenty of clearance there. As you can see, you have a nice grade steel. It's a good heavy duty piece. The paint on this is done in, is a powder coat so it gets into every pore. It also adds protection. And again, you have the air deflector in the front to help minimize the amount of noise going down the road. You have yourself a nice addition to your vehicle and it definitely adds to the look. Okay, just to show you this is how your rack will come in when it's shipped to you. This will come freight truck obviously due to the size. It is basically all pre assembled. All you have to do is mount the brackets and your done in less than an hour, you can have one of these mounted properly on top of your vehicle. So, when you're ready to order your rack for your LR3 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series II. Using
our money-saving kit, with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Kit # ABP218SKA Installing the Brake Hose &Fluid Kit on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to introduce you to the brake fluid and hose kit that we make as part of our repair and maintenance academy. The hose kit will cover both front and rear hoses for your Discovery 2, 1999 to 2002. And what's included is your 2 front hoses, 2 rear hoses from body to axle and then axle to rear caliper. You get new bolts for the caliper banjo fittings with new copper washers and seals, and enough brake fluid to properly flush out and bleed the whole system. Now the advantage behind our brake hoses as opposed to original equipment design, we manufacture them here. They are manufactured of a braided stainless steel, it makes them lighter, stronger and much more longer lasting. If your vehicle has 100,000 miles, 105,000, which Land Rover actual recommends replacement of those hoses at 105,000 miles. This is Kit I, Part #ABP218SKA and this will get you everything that you have here. These hoses will be considerably stronger and will last longer than the original equipment which is going that safer. And in the long run it is going to make your brakes perform better. And in a few minutes we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Once you have your brakes bled out, put your wheels back on. Make sure they're torqued to proper specs. Take your jack stands out. And you're ready to go. So again, when you're ready to change over your brake hoses, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, discuss the recommended oil change frequency on late model Land Rovers or Range Rovers. Land Rover’s recommended interval of 12K-15K oil changes on late model Rovers with synthetic engine oil is an often-discussed topic in the forum community. Many are saying, and We agree, that the frequency of changes should be half that (every 7,500 miles) or you risk causing long-term wear and damage to the engine. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Hi I'm Gareth, the tech support rep here at Atlantic British. Today in this video we're going to discuss oil change frequencies for Land Rover Range Rover models from 2003 to present day, whether it be Range Rover Sport, LR3 or LR4. A lot of people have been reading online about Land Rovers and talking about Rover oil change frequencies. People are saying that it's a long time between 12,000 and 16,000 miles to get there oil changes done. We agree with that. It's an awful long time to wait for an oil change. The extended oil change service frequencies on Range Rovers and Land Rovers these days are a little bit too extended. We feel they can unfortunately cause, you know, detrimental wear to engine components for things like timing chains, timing chain guides, etc, which can also lead to more severe failures possibly because of those extended service life. We feel like good oil change every sort of 7,500 miles is probably the best course of action and keep the engine and other components running to the best service capabilities. So when you're ready to do your oil change we have a number of kits for all the model Range Rovers which include enough oil to do the oil change, the relevant oil filter, O ring if needed, a new drain plug, and of course an oil change service reminder that sticks to the windshield. This kit is for the 5.0 v8 engine which is in the LR4 Full-Size Range Rover and Range Rover Sport. And when you're ready to order it please visit us online at Roverparts.com or there's a link you can go to on the screen. Or you can always call one of our friendly sales reps and talk to them about what model vehicle you have and what oil service kit you're going to need. The phone number is 800-533-2210.
Watch our Land Rover Technician Doug replace the front seat covers and cushions on a Defender 90 using the
Exmoor Seat Retrim Kit. In this how-to video, Doug presents a very thorough explanation in the step-by-step process of the recovering these seats. This retrim kit will also fit Defender 110, 1993. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Installing New Exmoor Seat Re-Trim Kit on Defender 90Hi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to re-cover the seats on your Defender 90. With the seat covers that we have in stock you can re-cover both front seats including the head rests. So we're going to give you kind of a step by step, and it's really not that bad a job. A little time involved. What we have is a drivers seat already removed from a Defender. It's essentially an easy job. It's 4 bolts. 2 in the front. 2 in the back. They bolt into nutserts which are locked into the body of the vehicle. So you can essentially just take it out with a ratchet and a socket. You take your 2 out of your front. You slide the seat forward. Bring the back in the full forward position. 2 bolts in the back are very easy to access. Pick the whole seat up. Pull it out.And there, is your fully re-covered seat. Looks good. And there we have it. Would make a nice weekend project. Re-cover the seats on your Defender. Look how much better it will be when you are done. Now, you wish to order these seat covers, you can get them through any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. They'll be happy to help you at any time.
Atlantic British Ltd. Do-It-Yourself-How-To Video: In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the
iLAND Diagnostic App to perform parking brake setting and unjamming procedures on a 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. How To Use the iLAND App Parking Brake Setting & Unjamming Procedures For All Late Model Rover Vehicles - Demonstrated on the Range Rover Sport. Hi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to touch base on one of the functions on the iLAND Diagnostic Tool that we now carry. And that's for servicing the rear brakes and the rear parking brakes. Now on this, this is a 2006 Supercharged Sport, this would actually apply to the Sport and the LR3, and I believe even the early LR4s, until they converted over to the motorized rear calipers later on. So what we're going to show you is basically how to access that function and what that function does for you. So the first thing we've done is we've plugged in our dongle. We see the blue LED. We know our dongle is powered up. Now this is, we're going to use the iphone, where you can do either iphone or ipad if you have it programmed to your unit. And on the iOS systems you're going to find 2 icons for iLAND. You're going to see one here and you're also going to see another with a blue dot on your second page. This is strictly for the software for the diagnostic procedures. You're not going to use that to access and diagnose your vehicle. You're going to use this one. So we're going to hit that. That's going to light up all the vehicles. Now in this case this is the Pro version, so its lit up all the vehicle models. If you have yours programmed for only one vehicle model, like a Discovery or a Sport or whatever, just that box is going to be lit in red. So we go to Range Rover Sport. We go through our garage disclaimers. And now we're going to wait a second and let this go through. Now it's telling us Diag file downloaded. Dongles connected. We want to make sure ignition switch is on. Now we're just going to turn this so that all of the lights come on the dash. We're not going to start and run the vehicle. And it confirms that the firmware version that we have on here is the latest. So we hit continue and we let the Bluetooth do its job. This model is a 2006. It's a Supercharged V8 Petrol. And again just making sure we have the key on so we can talk to all the different modules. And we're going to go to system selection. And then we're going to go to parking brake control module. So first it's going to do a set-up communication. Now you'll see the module in the parking brake is actually tied in with the high speed can, in other words it talks to all the modules that control the vehicle. The power train, transmission, transfer case, whatever. So it's actually an important module to this system. Now you'll see you can read fault codes. You can clear them. You can actually get in and read some of the live data. It will tell you what version information in case you need to know that. Special functions is what we're looking for though. And what this does is several things. One, it will allow you to get in and do the accelerometer calibration. Which sometimes needs to be done after you've replaced the module. You can also drive the parking brake to mounting position. And this comes in handy if you're replacing the rear brake shoes. And they have been an issue with these vehicles over the years. That you would use this to put the shoes, or actually would put the park brake module in a position where it makes it easier to remove and install the parking brakes. And you also have latching position, which is also used in some of the installations. Now this is the important one, as what happens on occasion is these modules will jam up, whether it will be an over torque or whatever the case. This will allow you to unjam it.Essentially going to hit that. And what this will do is you'll read through and it kind of explains why that this application will drive the park brake in an unjammed in the release direction and then drive it into a mount position which is fully retracted. Now you want to make sure battery is fully charged up. Anything you do with any monitor on these vehicles you want to make sure the battery is fully charged up. Low battery voltage can end up creating problems for you, because voltage is very important in the operation of all these modules. So essentially once you read through it explains what to do we're going to hit okay. Tells you again make sure ignition switch is on. Now it's going to tell you. You're going to start the motor. And just give it a second to come down on its idle. Got that settled. And there it is. You're unjammed. Actually we're already working with a vehicle with a fully operational parking brake. So it's already set, it's in an unjammed position so you can drive the vehicle. So now it's just telling me turn this off. We hit okay. Ignition switch on. And what it's doing is it's clearing any faults out of the module that may have occurred due to the jamming. Again we'll switch off. And switch back on, and it may seem redundant but this is the steps that it needs to see to actually go through and fully succeed in their functions. So control module procedure completed successfully. So we're good. Set the ignition switch to off. And it's just going back telling me, here you can just go back to home page if you want. So, this shows you the function on the iLAND that will allow you to do parking brake repairs and do them properly and much easier instead of trying to do it without. So if you're ready to step up to the iLAND to do this procedure and more on your Land Rover and help you maintain it you can just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 or you can go on this link and you can order it online. And if you like our how to videos, and would like to see more, you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and that will give you access to all our how to videos we have for your vehicle and more. So appreciate you watching. We thank you. And Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain removal and installation of 5.0L fuel injectors for all 5.0L V8 from 2010 to 2013 or 2014 depending on your model Land Rover or Range Rover. Doug uses a bare head in our demonstration to show removal and replacement of the fuel injector (
part # LR079542). Questions about this video? Call 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British in this video we're gonna touch base on fuel injector replacement on the five liter v8 from 2010 to 102 thousand thirteen fourteen depending on what model and what we're gonna do is show you how to remove and replace the injector on a bare head because there are a lot of variations to the different model and Rovers out there that use this engine so what we're gonna do is just get you take it to the point where you've done the disassembly as far as the valve covers and the and the installation covers and again the differences between supercharged and non supercharged too many differences to list here so essentially just a matter of replacing the injector so what we have here basically is a high-pressure injector now if you're not familiar with the five liters they essentially use a low pressure pump normally it's gonna run about fifty five sixty pounds of pressure to a set of high-pressure pumps that are mounted underneath the engine and they in turn are gonna raise your fuel pressure to twenty one hundred foot-pounds of pressure which means at this point right here you have over two thousand psi of pressure so this is a system you want to be careful with now in the beginning Land Rover says of course the first thing you're going to do is you want to depressurize the system before you even start any disassembly whatsoever and that's relatively easy you go to your owner's manual you can identify the fuel pump fuse you're gonna remove that fuse and then just run the vehicle until it basically quits once it quits you're going to still leave the fuse out you're going to crank the engine another five or ten seconds just to make sure you've completely depressurize the system and then from that point you can take the lines off the fuel rail that's information you can look up and get online or talk to people on the forums you're even just invest in a service manual if you're gonna do your own work so at that point then you're going to take it down to this where we're ready to remove the fuel injector now two things I want to mention is there is a teflon seal mounted on the bottom of these that if you're going to reuse the old injector you're going to actually remove the the nylon seal and we're going to show you that in a minute and the other thing that land rover recommends again is these retainers that hold them in place once the fuel rail is in and from there they say you want to keep the same retainer with the injector if you were reusing the old injectors in this case we're actually going to be looking at replacement most cases you're going to replace them you're not going to reuse them so we remove the retainer and then we have the special tool and I do strongly recommend using this as its opposed to trying to get underneath and remove this as simply pushed in place but you really don't want to try to pry on it or you might end up doing damage below so you're going to use this puller which is essentially just a small slide hammer and these jaws at the bottom will spread and you're gonna seat the tool against the top which will get you lined up in that groove and then push this collar down to lock it in so the top essentially just acts as a small slight hammer now of course if you pullin up I use the injector and you've got varnish buildup on the bottom you're gonna need a little bit more force to take it off but it will come then you're gonna just simply raise that collar split the jaws and remove that now this is the nylon ring that I was talking about way in rover States if you're gonna just replace that ring you actually have an installation tool and a resizer the installation tool just seats over the end of the injector and you're gonna slide the new ring over that of course will spread the ring so once the ring is in place you have a sizing tool now this tool is labeled number one and number two so number one will slide over the end and bring the size of the of the o-ring down to a certain point well then you flip it around number two being just a little bit smaller and then that's going to run over the top of that and now your size the reinstallation again just that easy and really just the next step is to install the new injector and put your vehicle back together so now we're ready to install this injector now when you get a new fuel injector it's already gonna come with the teflon seal already on the end and it should already be sized we're gonna take the protective ends off and then now Land Rover recommends if you're reusing the old injectors if you're just taking them out to do with new seals and whatnot make sure that you use the retainer that was on that particular injector they should stay together there's basically stating that there may be up a mated or just the fact that it's sized to fit that injector you want to reuse the old one in the case of the new ones usually recommend get the new retainers they install very easily they essentially just slide over the top of the injector you can push that down spread them a little bit and so that's what your installed retainer is gonna look like now the other thing I like to do and I've been doing this with fuel injectors over the years and the fuel rails take some clean Vaseline nothing that you dirty that you've used for engine working one up just a very very light coating and you're gonna rub your fingers on the o-ring on the top and then just a little bit on the teflon seal on the bottom and that sort of gives you a little bit more protection from ripping that teflon seal when you install now in regard to installing the tool there is a ridge right there on the injector itself we're gonna take that retainer back off and just wanted to show you how they go on because we're actually going to really install it once it's installed in the head and then of course the removal tool will also act as an installation tool so we want to wrap that around that essentially so that the little tangs inside the tool are gonna grab around the top of the injector and then slide that down to lock it in place so then what you're going to do - you have to remember your orientation when you remove the injector from off the head as far as where your your connector is now in this case we have a brand new head I really don't have the orientation here in front of me but as far as the installation I'm just gonna seat that very gently and then just tap in place lift and separate double-check just to make sure no damage to the o-ring again we just got a nice light coating on there so then at this point then you can slide your new retainer on drop that in place and now you're ready to reassemble so that's essentially all that's necessary and we have been running into a lot of calls on these injectors I'm either due to electrical or just basically getting restricted on top from from varnish build-up and whatnot and because of all the differences on the 5 liters as far as super charging non super charged you just basically gonna follow your procedure the way you took it apart just reverse everything okay so that's essentially yet very easy to do when you have the right tools this being the most important because one you could try to pry that injector out of there with another tool you probably end up doing some damage that are very fragile and you got to remember dealing with the pressures that are being applied it at these that you want to make sure everything's together and clean and seated exactly right so when you're ready to change over the injectors on your 5 liter Land Rover you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at one eight hundred five three three two two one zero or you can click on this link and order them online and if you liked our how-to video would like to see more you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and see more so we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install a BajaRack
BAJALR34 on an LR3. This particular roof rack in for vehicles with factory roof rails demonstrated. This BajaRack has side-rails. BajaRack roof racks were created as rugged storage solutions for the adventurer that likes to go beyond the trail. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # BAJALR34 Install BajaRack For Vehicles With Factory Roof Rails Demonstrated on LR3Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to introduce you to one of the roof racks that we offer for the LR3 which is the BAJALR34. Now this is the roof rack with the side rails. And this would be for the LR3s that came equipped with the rear side racks, or side rails, up on the roof. Now what I'm going to show you here is the hardware kit that comes with this. As you can see it's very simple. it's just got 4 brackets that slide onto that rear rack and then you've got 2 adjustable brackets for the front. Everything is a bolt on procedure. It all comes with stainless steel hardware. So they give you a little bit of grease to dab on the threads. That's what's recommended on stainless steel. And pretty much that's it. It's a very basic set. So what we're going to do then is we're going to give you a little walk around on the rack and then we're going to show you how to mount on your vehicle. Alright, so before we put the rack on top of the vehicle I just wanted to give you a quick walk around to give you an idea on this. It is a high grade steel all welded assembly. There's nothing to put together on this. It has all the flats and everything on there. We've got side rails. You have a front guard. There's a windshield, or wind deflector in the front which will help reduce the amount of noise because some of the roof racks at highway speeds will make some noise. In the back, you'll notice you have a cross guard and an opening, and this is for LR3s that came with the navigation system where the antennae would be in the back area of the roof. So it would actually protects that as well. So, a well made piece. It's a powder coat paint, so it means, you know, the covering, the paint, is going to get into all the pores. Going to give you much better protection against rust, corrosion and of course dings and dents. So this is a really nice piece to put on top of your vehicle. Now we're going to show you how to mount it on there. Now you may notice in the next segment that the rack that we are going to be working with does not have the side rails. There are 2 versions to this rack - with and without - and we have all ready done a rack installation on the non. So if you see a difference in the rack, don't worry about it. The installation is exactly the same.All right. So we're going to show you this is the rack mounted on the vehicle. You can see how it adds to the looks. It has a nice low profile. Heavy steel construction. Air deflector in the front to reduce noise. And of course just the additional storage space is nice. Now keep in mind, even with the low profile, this is going to add an overall 8 inches to the height of your vehicle. So just keep that in mind when you pull into your garage. Now 8 inches really isn't all that bad. And again, nice and solid. 1 piece. All steel, high grade steel with powder coat paint. So it is a very nice option to put on your vehicle. All right, so when you order your new rack, this is how it's going to come shipped. All assembled in 1 box. Foam protection all around the outside, hardware and everything latched down. So it will come to you in a very good condition ready to be mounted on your vehicle. So, when you're ready to order your rack for your LR3 just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will install
Glohh Dynamic LED Tail Lights (GL-3) on our Range Rover Sport. Please refer any questions or comments regarding the GL-3 LED lights to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: GL-3 Install GLOHH Dynamic LED Tail Lights Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to show you how to install our new LED tail lights for 2006 to 2009 Sport. Now these have sequential tail lights each side so it's going to add quite an upgrade to the back of the vehicle. And it's very easy to install. So let's show you how. First step - we're going to open the tail gate. That's going to give us access to the 2 Phillips screws that hold the inside of that tail light assembly in. Just give a little push and spin out. We'll take those 2 out and then we'll show you where you need to pry to pop this out. So with a nice wide plastic trim tool, and I recommend using plastic because you don't want to use metal, you dont want to be damaging the paint. You're actually going to place it between the tail light and the body and just work it in until that pops out. If you'd like, you can put a rag or a piece of paper towel here or whatnot when you sneak the light out so you're not again scratching the paint. So once we have the tail light out you have a little tab right here you're going to press that in with your thumb. Press hard. Sometimes you need to push in first to release. Pop that out. And that's all there really is involved with removing the tail light. The new tail light assembly has bulbs and everything internal so you just take all of this and place this aside. And before we peel the protective covering off, just so you know. It's going to tell you we're only ever going to replace these as a pair. So in other words we're never going to put just one in and leave the other old one on the other side for whatever reason. Always put them in as a pair. And then make sure power is off when you install them. So we take our harness connector, you can see you have the little bump up up top. That's going to line up with our release tab on that. So we're just going to push that in til we hear it click. So know you know you got a good solid link. If it does pop out you can see you have a sliding rail in there, this is just going to install right back on. Now, you'll find on some models that there is a connector right here. Actually it may even be this one right here. This would normally be sitting right here. Now what happens is the end of this connector lines right up with it and you may not be able to install it. I recommend popping this out. You can tuck it down into this chamber, just below and that gives you plenty of room to install the new light. So we simply pop the 2 pins back in. Put our 2 Phillips screws in. We're done with this side. We're going to do the same procedure on the other. So this is your finished product. You've got LED tail lights. You have sequential turn signals and 4 ways. LED side markers. And with a look that is quite different from the original equipment. So here is our new GLOHH light installed. And you can see you have a nice bright tail light. All LED. You have a sequential turn signal which will also do this when you run the 4 ways. And you have LED side markers. A very nice upgrade. Very visible. And also very easy to install. So when you're ready to do the upgrade on your 2006 to 2009 Sport, just call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you'd like you can click on this link and you can go to our website and order them directly through that. And if you like our how to videos you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and look at the many videos we have all ready done. So we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Watch our Land Rover Technician, Doug, give an in-depth and step-by-step demonstration of the replacement of the coolant hoses and thermostat on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005. The
proper hose kit includes all the coolant hoses and thermostat necessary for a full service replacement. This procedure is recommended every 90,000 miles. Kit #: 9370LSKA Replacing Coolant Hoses & Thermostat On Range Rover Full Size 2003 - 2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch on the cooling hose kit for the 2003 to 2005 Range Rover Full Size, the HSE. And what we're going to do is actually show you how to install this kit. Now what comes with the kit is essentially every cooling hose under the hood. Your heater hoses. Upper and lower radiator hoses. Bypass and vent hoses. We also include the thermostat, which is a known unit for these to create problems, so it's good to put a new thermostat in while you have the system broken down. It includes the O rings to seal the unit. And factory plug. And the kit number which is part of our maintenance and service program is 9370LSKA. Includes all these hoses, thermostat and basically everything you need to replace the hoses under the hood. Okay, so if you have access to one it is always best when you're done doing anything in the cooling system. You've put some anti freeze in it and you're now going to do a pressure test. And essentially what you're going to do by pumping it up you're going to apply a fair amount of pressure to this system. And then give it a little bit of time so if there is a leak, or if there is a slow leak, it will show up. And you're simply just going to go around and check all the points where you've put a connection on and see if there is any wetness. Upper and lower hose. Bypass hoses. Back to your heater hoses. Your 2 connections at the back of the engine. Your connections upfront by the access auxiliary pump and to the control valves. And it looks like we're all nice and dry at all out points. And actually it's usually best some times to leave this for about half an hour. Walk away from it. Come back. See if your pressure reading has dropped. If it's right about where you had it at, where you left it, you're good to go. Now it's just a matter of take this back off. We'll top the system off. Put it back together and do a road test just to make sure everything is on good and tight. Okay so now we've tested our system, we've buttoned it up. We're going to put the covers and the plenum chamber back in which we showed you how to take that out in the beginning. Very simple installation. And that pretty much wraps up the installation of the hose kit. Now again the part number of this hose kit is 9370LSKA. We'll give you all the hoses that you need. You follow these directions you should have no problem installing them. To order this kit you can call our number at 1-800-533-2210 and any our knowledgeable salesmen will be happy to help you out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, change the pollen / cabin filters for a 1995-2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS or Bosch Engine. Using
pollen / cabin filter kit # BTR8037SKA, which includes two pollen / cabin filters, it is recommended that these filters be replaced every 15,000 miles. Part #: BTR8037SKA Replacing the Pollen / Cabin Filter on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications, 1999-2002, 8-Cylinder BOSCH Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and as part of our repair and maintenance academy I want to show you the pollen filter kit that we have for P38 Range Rovers manufactured between 1995 and 2002. Now I know some items that we have separate the GEMS engine P38 from the BOSCH engine, but this particular kit will fit both. It goes through the entire range for that model. Now you will get 2 filter kits, boxed, because this particular vehicle uses a pollen filter for both right and left hand side on the vehicle. Now the kit number, which we'll show you on the sheet that you can download, BTR8037SKA, and listed as pollen and cabin filter. Now this is a service that's recommended every 15,000 miles. If you live in a rather dusty area then I would suggest you want to check them, probably change them earlier than that, maybe every 10,000 miles. They're very easy to install, and we're going to show you how to put them in in just a minute. OK. So this is a relatively easy repair. This isn't going to take you very long. Just a few minutes, really. Now essentially on both sides of your upper cal you have these oval black covers. And this is what your pollen filter mount is inside of, simply held in with 2 Phillips head screws. And again, changing these pollen filters is a very good idea. It actually allows, this will filter your intake air for your heater and air conditioning, give you cleaner air to breathe inside. Simply just remove the 2 Phillips screws. Place them in a spot where they're not going to roll away or disappear. You see basically the cover pops right off. And you'll even see on top of the filter we actually have leaves and debris that would have been drawn down into your intake system had that filter not been there. Now, when you pull it out, just notice the way it's mounted in the vehicle. You have these black tabs. And these are in the upper position, facing up. And you can see how much these filters stop the amount of garbage that can drop down inside your AC and heating air conditioning system. These are a really good idea to change on a regular basis. Take any debris that's laying up inside, what you can fish out. If you have access to a shop vacuum, that does a really nice job. Just simply vacuum the stuff out of here. Then you have less of a chance of anything getting caught down inside the AC system. So now you see we have a nice clean opening on that. And your simply going to take the new filter and you'll need to wiggle a little bit, work it down inside because it has to center up on its guides. Two hands. And just wiggle back and forth. Set that down in place. Put your cover back over. Line up your screw holes. And reinstall your 2 Phillips screws. They don't have to be super tight. Just bring it in until you feel it come to a stop. And then snug it in. And then same with the other. Now the operation for the other side will be exactly the same. So we don't need to do that again. But that will show you how to change over the pollen filter. And again, you don't want this being drawn into your AC system. So when you're ready to change over your pollen filter you can give a call at 1-800-533-2210 and any of our knowledgeable salesmen will be happy to help you.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the spark plugs and ignition wires for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using
Spark Plug Kit # NLP100320SKA, which includes 8 spark plugs and a set of ignition wires, it is recommended that this service be performed every 60,000 miles. Kit # NLP100320SKA Replacing Spark Plug & Ignition Wires on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to show you the spark plug and spark plug wire replacement kit for your 1999 to 2004 Land Rover Discovery 2. This is all part of our repair and maintenance academy program. This will help you keep the maintenance up your vehicle for maximum performance, better fuel economy. Now these are wearable items, and in the sheet that you can download and copy right off of our website, you'll see Spark Plug Kit Number NLP100320SKA. And what that will include is a full set of 8 spark plug wires, the Magnacors, and a set of double platinum Champion spark plugs. You get 8 plugs, 8 wires. And again, this is something that is recommended every 60,000 miles. These are wearable items that they can wear to a point to where it will affect your fuel economy and your engine performance. So it's a good thing to stay on top of. Now in a minute we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Generally how this works is the spark plug furthest from the back will be on top and then progressively works its way down, even on the back. Keep these in the looms so they're not rubbing against anything metallic or sharp, so you won't have any problems further down the line. So again, that's pretty much it for replacement of spark plug wires and spark plugs. Again, make sure you check your gap. Again this is a good maintenance item to do. It will improve both your fuel economy and engine performance. When you're ready to so you can give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the front and rear ride height sensors on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322). Applicable Part #s LR020627G (front right) / LR020626G (front left) / LR032106G (rear). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Hi I'm Gareth, tech support here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on an L322. It's actually a 2005 model. We're going to be replacing rear and front height sensors. The reason we're replacing the high sensors on this vehicle is that we were getting corrupt data from the height sensors through to the ride height control module and the car wasn't making any height adjustments. These, it's not uncommon to not have fault codes for this issue as data does get through but it has difficulty adjusting. A lot of the time it's due to the old sensor. This is a front, this is an original one. The the actual pivot point gets seized and tight. I can barely move this one so it won't flex with the sensor and ends up giving wrong information to the right height control module. This is the new replacement here as you can see, totally updated with a rubber bushing. You can see how easy that moves. It comes in a kit form with new retaining screws and a new replacement bracket. This is a 2005 model like I said with the BMW engine in it, which was built between 03 and 05. Part number for this particular model without active headlights is LR020627 for a front, and LR020626 I believe for the left front. The rears that we're going to replace first, this one I don't know if you can see clearly enough, but it's split here. There's a small crack in the body which allows water to ingress into the sensor and give corrupt data back to the ride height control module. And as you can see when I removed it from the other side it just tore apart unfortunately, so yeah definitely time to replace. This side was also starting to crack even though the screw came out. The new one for the left and right rear uses the same part number LR032106 genuine part that we sell. And this is the sensor itself. Again all rubber bushed, nicely. A little bit more updated. Not as big as cumbersome. And this also comes with a little tiny repair kit of new retaining screws. So we're gonna start here on the right rear of the vehicle for replacement to the rear sensor. It's a little bit of a tighter fit.It's located all the way back here against the rear subframe. It bolts the lower arm down on the lower control arm. There's a 13 mil headed bolt and nut that hold it in place here. There is one electrical connector right here there has to be cleaned. I generally spray with a bit of WD-40 or PB Blaster just to sort of loosen any dirt up or anything and I normally blow it with compressed air to loosen up any dirt that might have been caught in there. And then once the connectors off, we undo the two retaining screws, one here and one down at the back underneath, in the corner here. However I don't hold out much for the screws coming out that easily because they've been in there a long time and it's all heavily corroded. So I'll start on the nut here and bolt, then the electrical connector and then I'll work from underneath the vehicle and remove the two screws. Okay so here is the right rear height sensor removed. Lucky this time it came apart quite easily. Some, a lot of the time the hardware, these two screws that hold the sensor to the bracket rot out and you end up having to get vice grips out and start moving it bit by bit. But this one came out quite easily. This one is split down the side of the bracket and on this side you can see the split here, which was allowing water to get into the sensor and give corrupt information to the right height control module. So we're going to be putting the new, new one on momentarily and mounting it like so into the vehicle. 2 new screws, connector, with a dielectric grease in the connector to help waterproof it, stop any corrosion, and then we're going to move on to the front sensor. So the sensor is installed. Just a quick check to make sure that the arm moves nice and freely and doesn't obstruct the screws that we put in to hold it in place. And that's good. The arm goes back through the bracket hole somewhere here. There we'll put the original nut back on. There's nothing wrong with it. We'll hold it with a small 10 millimeter wrench down at the bottom. We'll zip it up make it nice and tight. We'll put the electrical connector back on with a little dab of dielectric grease and we're all set to move on to the front. So the new sensors all installed. It's solidly mounted to the lower control arm here. It's free and clear of the containing screws. The clips back on, dielectric grease on the inside of it. It's clipped on in place. That's all done we're gonna move on to the front section okay so here we are at the right front. This is the height sensor we're going to be replacing. I can already see at the top of the sensor it's split open. Plus I totally suspect this heim joint to be seized. I can't even wiggle it sideways, so I'm already assuming that it's bad and seized up. Gonna start off removing the electrical connector here. We squeeze the sides, the tabs, push it down, remove the connector. I'm going to disconnect the lower heim joint here at the lower control arm, and then we're gonna actually remove the whole bracket with the sensor from here and here. Obviously going to have to cut the cable tie that holds the wiring on for it right there and then we're gonna put a new bracket on. It'll go mount exactly the same place as the old one was but the new one has the plastic arms with the rubber bushings so they don't corrode and seize up. So this right front sensor, as I suspected with the left front, is seized solid. The arm moves at the sensor but won't pivot here at the arm and I'm pushing, there, I mean I'm forcing that quite badly and that would not it would, would not give good correct information to the right height control module. It would be corrupted. It's just totally rotted out, seized and needs replacing. Okay so the height sensor is off the car and I'm forcing it to move obviously, that would not work properly on the car. I mean it's freeing up now because I've moved it a couple of times but it's still way too tight for good correct data input to the right height control module. So with this we're going to be replacing, with the sensor, which comes with the new plastic arm with the rubber bushings, it's gonna get a new bracket, new screws and hardware that hold it all together and it has definitely been getting water in it off of the crack that is right at the top there where the hardware goes through. So the nice thing about the new sensors they come with the new bracket. We get to install the bracket first to the height sensor before we install it onto the car. So what I'm going to do is orient this in the right direction and of course we have the old one here to make sure I get it right. And we can screw it on using the two new screws. Screw the bracket on and then just use the old screws that hold the bracket to the subframe of the vehicle. Goes that way, like that. And for any beginners out there who want to try this it's always a good idea to take a photograph of it with your digital phone, cellular phone. Just pinched up a little bit. Don't have to go swinging on them they're small screws that's going into a small plastic housing. You don't want to strip the plastic housing out. You'll feel it bottomed out when it's tight. Check the other side. And there we go. Same as the old one. There, there, ready to install. I'm gonna get a cable tie for this so we can hold it on there nice and firmly. It's not flailing around. I'll go grab one. Okay so now we have the new right front high sensor installed. The clip, the wiring harness clip for the height sensor is on nice and firmly. The link rod is attached securely, as is the new bracket. I just zip-tied the wiring harness on nice and firmly just to stop it from blowing around and any possible catching of anything. We can put the wheel back on and we could lower the vehicle. We'll probably do a test first to see if we need to calibrate the suspension. You don't always have to calibrate the suspension, it depends on if there are any faults arise due to height sensor replacement. A lot of the time, or, most of the time all the height information is stored in the ride height control module. The sensor just tells the height control module what it's seeing. So not always calibration is needed but we won't see, know until we actually test the system. If we do then yeah we'll do a calibration procedure. If not luckily, hopefully, we have just replaced the sensors and the system will come back online and work properly. Okay so here we have the car off the left now, wheels back on. I've actually tested the vehicle a couple of times since we had the car on the ground. The air suspension is working back in operation normally now. There is no need to recalibrate every time you replace height sensors. The information is always stored in the right height control module on most of the Land Rover models. We did do all 4 sensors on this vehicle. I observed it with the diagnostic tool we had. The readings were with, well within parameters of one another. I did not calibrate it. I've tested the system in access mode normal ride height and in extended height mode and it is working perfectly fine. The vehicle drives excellent. I've no concerns over having any issues over to wanting to recalibrate. I've left it well alone. It doesn't need it. I'd be happy if this car came back to me from any repair facility in this condition.
Is your ignition key difficult to turn, and then, getting stuck on removal from the ignition barrel of your Discovery Series II? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, remove and replace the ignition barrel on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug explains that the original part for this replacement has become hard to find and purchase, and if you can find the part it is also expensive. With our
retrofit kit # QRF000080ABP, you will find a suitable, cost-effective replacement to the original part. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. For more how-to videos on the Discovery Series II and other Rover vehicles visit Rover Resources video section. Part # QRF000080ABP Ignition Key and Tumbler Retrofit Kit Replace and Install Ignition Key Barrel On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support rep here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about a product that we've developed for the Discovery II. We're finding as these vehicles are getting older, a lot of customers are having problems with the ignition key. Mostly getting the key in or out of the ignition switch. So we have found that, and we carried the original design, we're finding out they're getting harder and harder to come by. So what we have found is a retrofit key barrel for the ignition on the Discovery II. Now what you'll be receiving is the barrel itself, with the new pair of keys, and the brakoid bolts for installing. And this is a relatively easy part to install. There are slight differences in the operation of this unit. The only real difference is, if you're familiar with the Discovery II, before you remove the key you need to push it in and turn and remove. With this you'll never have to do that again. You just bring the key back, pull it out of the barrel. It's a good fit, and you can use your original ignition switch which will attach right to the backside of this. And we're going to show you in a few minutes actually how to do that. So, the big difference is the price. These are considerably less money than the original equipment replacements. And yet it will still do the job and make life a lot easier for you. And the only thing you'll need to do is, obviously the key is going to be different than what's on your door locks, so you'll need to make sure you keep 1 key for the ignition and 1 key for the door lock on your key ring. And that still leaves you a spare key to hide somewhere in case you forget it. So, hang in with me and then I'm going to show you how to install this. Alright, so to begin with we have to take the shroud off the back of the steering column. At the top you have an adjustment here for your height. You want to drop that down. That will give you a little more room to work. That top half just pops right off. You can get your fingers inside. Separate both sides like that.What we'll do is slide that down in so that the, that section will sit in the groove that's in that round piece of trim. We'll set that right there. And it does fit around that. And then we'll drop in the top half, get that in position. Check both sides, make sure your tabs are going to line up before you go to put the whole thing together. Okay. That side is done. This side you're going to just very gently pop that together. So it actually looks pretty good. So there's your finished product. You'll now be able to turn your key easier, and it's going to operate better for you. And everything is fully functional on here. So, when you're ready to change over, when you're key starts sticking on your D2 and you can't get the barrel anymore for that, or that the old one is much too expensive, you can go with this retrofit item. It works perfectly in this vehicle. Just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen, 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
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