wiper videos
Watch our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using wiper blade kit # 7501F , which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or use our live chat.
Kit #: 7501F Installing Wiper Blades On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we were going to just touch base on one of the kits that we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander for the windshield Wiper blade replacement. Now this is mentioned under our maintenance and repair academy that we have listed on our website. You can go on the website and you can actual access and download this sheet. And this gives you not only the wiper blades, but all the other recommended services for your Freelander. Now this one in particular, this is the wiper blade kit. Our number is 7501F. Gives you a pair of front wiper blades. And gives you the rear wiper blade. Now you'll notice you'll see a difference on the 2 blades. 1 having this wing that helps add pressure on the blade down on the windshield. This is for the driver side. And you'll get the passenger side wiper and a rear wiper as well. And this rear wiper is one that is often neglected. A lot of people will just change the fronts and never change the rears. I've actually seen them come in to my shop where they were literally missing the entire blade they were so worn out. When it comes down to you really need to be able to see out the back, you want that wiper working in good order. So, that's our kit. That's what we have available on our website. And I will now show you how to install one of the front wipers and the rear wiper. Alright, so as I showed you earlier in the introduction, the blade with the wing on it is for the driver side. And this wing essentially uses wind pressure, so as it climbs on the windshield, especially into the more curved area it applies a little bit more pressure so that it clears the windshield better. Now to replace this - and I, you'll see this in some of our other videos as well. Whenever we're doing these windshield wiper blades, always bring a mat, a cover a blanket. Anything to protect that windshield because you can pull these up. But should bump into it or move it out of place, once we take the blade off you've got a solid metal arm on the end of this. And this just can just snap down and you'll end up with a crack right up the middle of the windshield. So, just to cover yourself. And this is one of our fender cover that we have available actually on our website. You can get these in either red or black. These make a great cover, and as you can see I do use these quite a bit. They work very well. To take the blade off, underneath the base of the hook you'll feel a very small tab. You can see my finger pushing on it right there. You're simply going to depress that tab. And you need to pull in a downward motion to unhook the blade. Swing the blade out. Seated adaptor fell out. You're going to take your new blade. Make sure you orient the blade in the front. You're going to make sure that the clip is in place. And on the back side of that clip you'll see that tab right there. That's what this hook is going to lock on to so that this blade does not come off. We're going to place that like so. Slide this up. You'll actually hear it click into place. Take your cover off. And there you go. The operation is identical for the passenger side. You simply depress the tab. Snap the blade off. Slide the new blade on. Make sure it's locked in place. Again, when the blade is off the arm, make sure you have a cover protecting that windshield. Now we're going to move to the back and we'll show you how to replace the rear wiper blade. Alright, so, here's the rear blade. You can see, a little restrictive as far as how far you can pull that away from the back window. But actually, this is relatively easy. Now what I usually recommend on this case, and this one lines up with the rubber. But again, like I mentioned with the front, you never want to have the glass exposed when you're changing the wiper blade. You just don't need this arm to snap back. In this case, you can just lower the rear window. Fully opened it's down in the tailgate. Completely out of the way. You don't have to worry about the arm hitting it. Now these are simply just a pop out wiper blade. They snap in pretty tight. I usually find it's best to take a screw driver, place it right between the blade and the arm and the push on the forward part. They pop right out. And as you can see, there's no loop. There's no adaptor. There's just 2 small pins and they pop right into the arm itself. Now in the replacement kit, I believe you get the, you can get the insert that pops in there to hold this in case it breaks. So in most cases you don't need it. You can use the original, they hold very well. So just to reinstall it, you going to just simply look at the way this is configured. You can see how this bumps down. And this is going to be outward of the arm. And we'll just line up the pins with the slot. Fingers on both sides. And just press in. You can hear that pops in. It's a nice solid lock. So, that's your rear wiper. So again, this is recommended to do on a pretty regular basis. Wiper blades are a safety item. I know a lot of times they get neglected, but in a hard rain or snow you'll be glad you changed them over. So when you're ready to do so on your 2002 to 2005 Freelander, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using wiper blade kit # 7503TSKA , which includes two front wiper blades, two front wiper retainers and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Kit #: 7503TSKA Installing Wiper Blades On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on the replacement of the wiper blades on your 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also known as the L322. We have a kit available through our maintenance and repair program, which is a full program on all the maintenance items you need on your vehicle. And what we have is basically a downloadable and printable sheet that lists all the maintenance items, and basically the recommended mileages when it should be done. Now, this particular kit, which is our wiper blade kit, which is part number 7503TSKA and you'll you have here 2 front wiper blades. 1 rear blade and then 2 retainer clips to attach the blades to your vehicle. Now, you'll see that you have all 3 blades. Because in many cases a lot of people will changeover just the fronts and they neglect the rear. And it takes just as much wear and tear as the fronts do. So you want change them on the same regular basis. And again it's recommended every 15,000 miles. A lot of people neglect the wiper blades, and then don't realize how badly they need them until the first heavy rainfall and then you either have worn blades, or dirt built up underneath. They haven't been maintained. And not being able to see where you are driving is definitely a safety hazard. So you want to definitely do these on a regular basis. So this is the kit, and now I'm going to show you how to install them on your Range Rover.You've now changed your wiper blades. And again, there's a huge safety factor when it comes to wiper blades. And you'll know it the first time you get caught in a heavy rain and you've got worn out wiper blades. So, when you're ready to change them over on your 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen, 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a Discovery I, 1994 - 1999. Using our wiper blade kit # 7503 , which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Kit #: 7503 Installing Wiper Blades On Discovery I, 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support rep here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to introduce you to one of our service and maintenance kits that we have available for the D1, which is the wiper blades, front and rear. They're recommended to be changed every 15,000 miles. Nothing worse than getting caught in a rain storm with a pair of worn wiper blades. I mean this is probably one of the cheapest safety items that you can use on your vehicle. Now in the kit you'll get both the front blades and the rear blade. All are very easy to change on these and we're going to show you how do so in just a minute. When you want to look these up, we actually have a full maintenance schedule available for the Discovery 1. This is accessible and printable from our website online. And you'll see here wiper blade kit number 7503, it's the number C. With the recommended mileage on when you should do an exchange. Again, this is something that you want to do on a regular basis. Having worn out wiper blades can be very unsafe. So what we're going to do now is we're going to show you how to install these blades on your vehicle.So, changing the blades over is just that simple, just that easy. So when you're ready to change the wiper blades over on your Land Rover, and Land Rover, including the D1, give any of our knowledgeable salesmen a call at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a front & rear wiper blade replacement for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using wiper blade kit # 7507, which includes two front wiper blades and 1 rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. This kit and same process and approach can be used for all the vehicles listed.
Kit #: 7507 Installing Wiper Blades on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to introduce you to the windshield wiper kit that we have available for the LR3 as part of our repair and maintenance academy. And you'll find that right from Land Rover's recommended services. Now this is a sheet that you can download and print right from our website, that the wipers are recommended every 15,000 miles. If you're in an area with harsh weather or whatnot it may want to be done a little more often. And the kit number which is 7507 is going to include the 2 front wiper blades. These are the silicon based, with the proper attachment already built on them. And then the often neglected rear window wiper. Unfortunately I see a lot of these come in with literally the wiper completely worn out all the way down to the rubber base. A lot of people kind of neglect this rear wiper, but it does come in very handy when you want to see what's going on behind you. What we're going to do now is show you how to install these on your LR3 so you can see clearly where you're going. So unless you have nice free movement like this, replace the arm. Now that's pretty much it for wiper blades. So when you're ready to change them over on your LR3 you can just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a wiper blade replacement on a LR2 2008-On. Using wiper blade kit # 7503LR2 , which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit #: 7503LR2 Install Wiper Blade Kit on LR2 / Freelander 2 2008 - On, 6-cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And as part of our repair and maintenance academy we wanted to show you the windshield wiper kit for the LR2. This will fit the 2008 on LR2, or Freelander 2 as it's known in the rest of the world. And this kit, based on our maintenance sheet that you can copy and download off your computer. This is based on the recommended service intervals from Land Rover. And every 15,000 miles you should change the wiper blades on this vehicle. Now if you live in a dusty area or in an area other than mild climate, you want to change these more often. And again this is a maintenance item that alot of people overlook, but realize that they need them come the first big snow or bad rain that they drive through. So it's best to beat that and do your maintenance when it's scheduled. Now what you will get in the kit is the 2 front wiper blades. And there is a small difference between the right and the left. You'll notice that the left hand side is a longer wiper blade than the right, and your rear blade. Now in a minute we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Here's your wiper blade kit. We're going to start with the driver side wiper. Now you can take the arm, which is on a pivot, and bring it back to the point where it is a little easier to get at. On this blade, and we'll show you on the new one, you have 2 squeeze tabs. And these are going to depress to remove the blade from the arm. And it's just a matter of depressing those two, lifting away from the arm and then up and out. Just that easy. Now the new blades come with a protective sheath on them, to keep them from any damage during shipping or during storage, so make sure you remove that sheath. You're going to lock this small curve tab into the slot of the blade, swing down, squeeze the 2 tabs again. And you're on. And that's our driver side. Now again, notice, fender cover on the hood. This way you can lay your wipers down in front of you. You're not going to do any damage to the paint. Now passenger side you are going to do similar to the driver side. Simply squeeze the tabs, we're going to pull away, unhook, take our new blade, slide your protective edge off, hook into slot, squeeze the tabs. You want to make sure that - there you go - when we hear that click we know we're in. And there's your front blades. Now we'll go around and show you the back because the back is done a little bit differently. Now the back is done a little bit differently, it's actually more the traditional hook design. Now first thing you do before you decide to change your rear wiper, especially ifyou're noticing that the wiper blade really isn't cleaning the back window very much. For some reason, because of where they are located, rear wiper arms have a tendency to get more corrosion build up in them and what not than the fronts. You'll notice here is a perfect example. I can pull this away and it stays in its position. This should pop right back on the window, and it should hold some tension. This pretty much sets wherever I put it. If your wiper arm does that, you need a new arm. We tried cleaning them up with penetrating oil and what not which is just a temporary fix and it will freeze right up - you need to replace the wiper arm as well as the blade. In the case of the blade, there's a small tab right here. Right there. Squeeze in, and that's going to release the lock. Take your wiper blade and push towards the door until you unhook. Now you'll notice you have an insert in the wiper. On one side it's smooth. On the other side has a small lifted tab. That small lifted tab needs to be on the bottom so that it locks into the slot on the wiper arm. So you're going to line that up. Simply slide that in place. You can hear a nice solid click when it's in. You know your tab is in. Push your wiper back in place. And your done. Now you've replaced the wiper blades on your LR2. And again, this is a very important service. This could become a safety item with worn out wiper blades. So when you're ready to change them over on your LR2, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a front & rear wiper blade replacement for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using wiper blade kit # 7503D2SKA , which includes two front wiper blades, 2 retainers for the front wipers and 1 rear wiper blade, it is recommended that they be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit # 7503D2SKA Wiper Blade Replacement on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to show you the front and rear wiper replacement kit for 1999 to 2002 Discovery 2 as part of our repair and maintenance academy. Now this is a service that is recommended, even by Land Rover, every 15,000 miles. If you live in an area with extreme climates you may want to do it sooner. Having clean wiper blades, and a clean windshield, can make a huge difference in your travelling. Now what will be included with the kit are the 2 front wiper blades. And you'll notice that both blades are the same length. The adapter clips that you'll need for the special set up that they put on the Discovery's with the lock clip. And then the rear wiper blade which is simply just a pop in design. What we'll do is we'll show you how to install these wipers so you can get maximum visibility out of your vehicle at all times. You'll hear a pop and your blades on. And that's it. You changed your windshield wiper blades and made life a lot safer on the road when it rains or snows. When you're ready to change them over call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a front & rear wiper blade replacement for a 1995-2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS or Bosch engine. Using wiper blade kit # 7501 , which includes two front wiper blades and 1 rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit #: 7501 Replacing the Front/Rear Wiper Blades on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications OR 1999-2002, 8-Cylinder BOSCH Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to introduce you to the windshield wiper kit that we make available in our repair and maintenance academy program for your 1999 to 2002 P38 Full Size Range Rover. Now the kit will include the rear and the two front wipers. The front wipers will have different adapters for different model vehicles. On the P38 you'll be using the adapter that looks like so. You have a lock pin, or an attachment pin, on the front wiper. And you're just going to drop that in. Snap that in place. And in a minute we're going to show you how to mount that on your vehicle. Now just as a note, the wiper blade kit, which you can pull up on this downloadable copy off of our website, is kit 7501. And you'll see it includes the 2 front blades and a rear blade. This is recommended every 15,000 miles. This is something that is generally neglected until you really need them. How many of you have turned on your wipers on a rainy day and found out how bad they really were. Change them every 15,000 miles and you shouldn't have that problem. Now we're going to show you how to mount these on your vehicle. So when you're ready for your wipers just give a call to one of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a 1997 Defender 90. Using our Wiper Blade Kit # DKC100980K which includes two front wiper blades, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit #: DKC100980K Install Wiper Blades On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to cover wiper blade replacement on a Defender 90. This is based on the maintenance kit that we've come up with for Defender 90. If you've checked with our earlier video you'll find how to use these to know when to change wiper blades and any other maintenance service on your vehicle. Essentially in the kit for the Defender 90, this wiper blade kit is DKC100980K. Should be done about every 15,000 miles. And when you order that kit you'll be receiving both front wiper blades for the Defender 90. And later in this video we'll show you how to mount them on your vehicle. So now we're going to show you how to change the wiper blades. We've pulled our kit. We have our 2 items. And what I like to do normally is always put protection over the paint, even if you're working over it and you feel you're not going to do any damage, it's always best to have some protection down. Now this is one of our Atlantic British fender covers. Nice soft foam, a little on the sticky side it won't fall off on you. It's always good to have that just in case you drop something. Now on the driver side wiper the arm comes out, straight out and gives you easy access from the side. And all you're going to do is turn the wiper blade 90 degrees to the arm. And when you run your finger on the back you'll feel a small button. You push that button and that's going to unlock the blade from the arm. Slide back. Turn forward. And you'll unlatch it. And then simply slip it off. Now the other thing to keep in mind is you want to hold onto this arm. Should this get away from you, this is spring loaded, and it's going to slap right against the windshield. So keep your hand on there at all times. By this time you would have had the new blade out. And the new blade is going to go back on exactly like you took the old one off. 90 degrees. Until you get past the adapter to get it on there. Slip it over. Back out. Listen for the click. Nowyou're good. Turn the blade flat. Again, keep your hand behind there. Set it back in place. And you're going to change the passenger side exactly the same way. And again, as a reminder, this kit is also listed on our Maintenance and Service academy program. It's kit number DKC100980K You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to hook you up with this. You can reach us at 1-800-533-2210.
How to remove old wipers and install new ones on a Land Rover Discovery Series 2. Watch Jim as he explains how to change out your wiper blades on a Land Rover Discovery Series 2.
Summer and WinterWiper Blade ReplacementGood morning. This is Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of technical support here. This morning we are going to put wiper blades on this Discovery II. Our salesmen seem to get a lot of calls about people get confused on how to do this simple job. I'm going to start with the right side of the car. What you need to look at - there's a clip here that says lock on it. Just take a small screw driver, pull it towards you and it unlocks the blade. Just kind of falls out of there. Take your new blade, it fits right in, and you just re-lock it again. What you're playing with here, on the bottom of this clip you'll see a little u-shaped piece, and all it does is grips this round piece and when you click it over it just clicks over that. This is a replaceable part if you mess it we do stock it. What else I'm going to show you is the wiper blades for Winter, which are unique. What you'll notice about these is that there's 2 lengths on them. The longer one goes on the drivers side. And again I'll start with the passenger side. Just remove your Summer blade. You'll notice there's a tab on this right here. Just line the tab up with the end of the wiper blade. Just kind of slide it in like that and you push the lock over. That's it. We'll move over to the driver side now. Just unlock the lock. The blade will come out. This has a longer arm on it, slide it in place, and just flip the lock on it and it's in place. That's about it for the wiper blades on a Discovery II. You can get all your wiper blade needs here at Atlantic British. Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 or visit us on RoverParts.com.
Make replacing the wipers on your LR3 or Range Rover Sport easier. Watch Jim as he explains how to change out your wiper blades, both taking off the old ones and installing the new ones. The same process works for both the LR3 and the Range Rover Sport. Recommended service every 15,000 miles.
Front & Rear Wiper Blade Replacement On LR3Hi. It's Jim from Atlantic British. This morning while driving in with my LR3 I noticed the wiper blades just weren't cleaning as well as they used to. I think they've been on there about 6 months. Usually 6 to 12 months is about time to take them off and put the new ones on. We're going to show you how to do that this morning. First thing you need to know is you need to look at your wiper blade. There's a little door you pop open and then you have to have magic fingers with eyes at the end of them. There's a little lever you're going to have to push to get it out of the wiper arm. You can't see this. You have to do it blindly. It's really quite easy though. The old one we just pop that open. And this is the blind part. You got to reach in here. Release that little lever - it comes off. And then just snap them on and shut the little door. And we're done on that side. Just repeat it on the other side. The right side is much easier. Same thing you have to get your finger in there. Release it and then push the blade away from you. Same thing. Just snap it in and youre done. Atlantic British carries a full range of wiper blades for your car. At an added note - if you're driving a Range Rover Sport, the method is the same. Okay, we're done with the front. Let's go around to the rear. With the rear blade it's the same problem. You have to have the eyes in your fingers to see this little lever to push it to release it. Just pull it out, kind of just fish around for that little catch and give it a push back. Pull that one out. Just pull it until you hear the click. Another thing you might want to be looking at while you're doing this is the spring tension in your arm, both front and rear. If it gets a little bound up a little penetrating oil will free them up and you'll get a much cleaner wipe. To order your parts just contact us at RoverParts.com, or you can give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Contact our sales department, order the blades you need. You can also ask them any questions about the installation.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to replace the headlamp wiper blade, or if necessary, the entire headlamp wiper arm on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Applicable Part #s DKB000240G (wiper arm RH) , DKB000250G (wiper arm LH) and DKC000070G (wiper blade only) . Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Part #s: DKB000240 / DKB000250 & DKC000070 Headlamp Wiper and Wiper Arm Replacement on a Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug. I'm the tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance item that is usually neglected. And this is on the Full Size L322 Range Rovers. And assembly procedure is essentially the same from 2003 all the way up to 2009. And what I'm talking about are the little windshield wiper blades for the headlights. Now you have washers and wipers for these which will help you gain and hold your visibility in foul weather. So they could be just as important as your regular wiper blades. So we have 2 different offerings here at Atlantic British. You can get either the wiper blade by itself, DKC000070. Or you can get the wiper with the blade and arm complete because sometimes over a period of time, especially if you live in an area where they deal with a lot of salt or alot of foul weather you can get corrosion build up in the pivot. And you'll know that the arm needs to be replaced if you can pull it out at about a 45 degree angle. And if you let go, and it doesn't return on its own it needs to be replaced. So then you would do the full assembly. In this case, we have a good arm, we have good retraction. Good pressure against the headlight. So we're going to show you how to remove and reinstall the wiper blade, and then I'll show you how to install the arm. Now the blade itself, the blade pivots, and it's just held in place by a little push pin right here. In which case you can just take a pair of needle nose pliers, and push down on the top of that pin. You'll feel the bottom retract out. Simply pull that out. And lift the blade up and out of the arm. And take your new blade out of your bag. Reinstall the same way you took it out. And you just simply push in until you see that pin hole line up. You can install the pin from the top. Being the little slot, or the D tent that holds it in place is dead center, you don't have to worry about which end you are going to install first. Just simply push down in place. Center the pin. Check your pivot. And you're good. Now should you need to replace the arm, it's a reasonably easy replacement. This cover cap, just simply pull back and pull out of place. You'll see the holes are slotted, so it just simply pulls off. You have a nut, which is a 10 millimeter, you take that nut off. Put it somewhere where you're going to find it when you're looking for it. Then you can take the same pair of needle nose pliers and in that little opening where the shaft and the boss off the bottom of the headlight, you can just put that in there and give it a little wiggle and it will pop that out. Slide the arm off. Take your new assembly out of the bag. And you're going to reinstall it the same way you took it off. And this is going to sit pretty well parallel with the top of the bumper. And you just want to get an idea, let's see, okay, we're looking good. We're level with the bumper. We put our nut back on. Take your 10 millimeter. And it doesn't have to be super tight. Bring it in until you feel it snug up. And then just give it a little push to lock in. We'll take our cover plate. Slide that back in. Push in place. And there. You've replaced your wiper. Now assembly and everything is exactly the same for the other side. And it's always best you do one always do the other. So again, this is something that a lot of people neglect. They don't really think about it. But it really should be replaced on a regular basis. So when you're ready to change over the wiper blades or wiper arm assemblys on the headlights on your L322 Full Size Ranger, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen, 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
How to replace the rear wiper blade on a Land Rover Discovery Series 2, 1999 - 2004 model vehicle. Watch Jim as he reviews the steps necessary to install a new rear wiper blade on a Discovery II.
Tips on Installing Rear Wiper Blade On Discovery Series IIHi it's Jim here at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support. We've had a couple questions on Disco 2 owners about how to get the rear wiper blade off. There's no way getting around. You have to get the spare off. So get the spare out of the way, then you can get at the wiper arm. I have one here in my hand because there is not one on this car. It's a pretty simple deal. It snaps off. If you look in here, there's just a little catch that snaps it on there. What you're going to have to do is lift this off the glass. Snap it off. And then just snap it back in place. Just like that. And you're about done. And you're about done. You can get all your wiper needs here at Atlantic British. Either on www.RoverParts.com or give us a call 1-800-533-2210. We have kits that include all the wiper blades for your cars. And we stock wiper blades for the full line of wiper products. And don't forget, follow us on Facebook.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install Wiper Blades on a LR2 2008-On. It is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles and this video will help you install the front right and front left blades with the aftermarket design. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Kit # 7503LR2 Install Front Wiper Blades (with Alternate Wiper Blade Fixture Design) On LR2 / Freelander 2 2008 - On, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And we're going to do this little video because we've been getting some word back - some of the aftermarket wiper blades for the LR2 are coming with a completely different design on them than the original equipment. They do fit, and they lock on good and tight, but the way apply is totally different and I know it has confused some people. So, we're just going to do this short little video to show you how to do the current aftermarket blades that we carry. There's the Lucas for the driver's side. And then the AllMakes for the passenger side. Now the original equipment design, which we have a video on, is very simple and easy. It's just 2 squeeze tabs in the back. You squeeze those. You lift away and you pull away. You'll see this little angled tab on there. Now on the clear vision Lucas, you can see that there is a huge difference in the application itself and how it's mounted on the wiper arm. Again, it does mount, and as you can see this is actually a much heftier design. And it's a simple slide on. You simply put this in line so that the tab grabs underneath this outer area and just simply slide it down the rail, and you're going to pull down until you hear that click. And should you want to take it back off, there's a button right here and you push this button down. And then that releases the tab, in which case then you can lift these off. And these are actually on pretty tight. These are good and solid. So you can see that's not going to come off. On the other side, we have a slightly different design, so we're going to go to the passenger side and show you how to put those on. Ok. So, on passenger side original equipment same application, squeeze the tabs, pull away, lift and out. Then on the replacement, it's going to be just the opposite. These little notched arms on the back of the wiper arm are going to drop down into slots that are built into the bottom of the blade. Now with these, you're going to have to push up a little hard, and then you're going to pull towards yourself until this front shoulder of the arm clears this raised area of the blade. Pull forward, sit that in. Then there's 2 little grab tabs right there that are going to grab that curved notch or tab that's on the front of the arm. You lock that in good and solid. And that's how you're going to install that blade. Now, this is just simply an instructional. We have had calls on this. They are considerably different than the original design. But they actually lock in very well and work very well. So, when you're ready to change the blades over, or if you've all ready received a set of these blades, this video's going to help you greatly.
How to fit Discovery I wiper blade arms on a Discovery II vehicle. Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to install the wiper blades from a Discovery Series I on a Discovery Series II. By switching wiper blade arms, owners will have an easier time replacing their wiper blades in the future.
Retrofit InstallationDiscovery I Wiper Arm on Discovery Series IIHi it's Jim. I take care of the technical support here at Atlantic British. We've had a couple customers call and ask if you can change the wiper arms on a Discovery II and kind of retro it backwards to a Disco 1 wiper arm. You may wonder why would you want to do that. This arm and the Disco 1 wiper blade is a much easier installation if you're replacing the blade, you just kind of slip it in here, it's a Shepard hook, and that's all there is to it. Also, if you are stuck in an emergency some place, this is a very common blade you can buy most anywhere. So I will run you through taking the arm off and installing these blades. What you need is an 8 millimeter socket. Just loosen up the nuts here. I all ready have these loose. Take the nut off. And sometimes you have to wiggle these and get them off. Just simply remove that. Take your new one, put it in place like that. You will also have to get a smaller nut. Same size, but it is a skinnier nut than what you took off. A good thing to remember when you are doing this, once you get this in place where you want it, make sure you tighten it securely because anybody that has a Rover knows that these wiper pivot nuts come loose. It's a very common thing. All of a sudden they come loose and one wiper blade doesn't work. We have the arms, the blades. There is also a nice plastic cover that makes it a nice finished look. It literally just snaps in place like that. Get one side done. Go over and repeat it on the right side, install it. Another good feature with this style wiper blade is that you can get a Winter blade that fits a lot better than the actual Winter wiper blade that fits the Disco 2 from original. We sell them both. I like this set up because it is simpler to replace the blade. You can get your arms, blades, covers and nuts on our website RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Ask our sales staff about it. They've all heard about it. It's an easy upgrade to do. And keep following us on Facebook, we'll do little simple upgrades to keep your car running fine.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the rear wiper arm replacement for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using wiper arm part # DKB500310PMD , which includes new spray hose and finishing cover, it is recommended that the wiper arm be replaced when corrosion develops on the pivot and will no longer hold tension of blade against rear window. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Part # DKB500310PMD Rear Wiper Arm Replacement On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on how to replace the rear wiper arm your Discovery 2. This will cover essentially your 1999 to 2004 Land Rover Discoverys. Now on these, usually, there are several reasons why you're going to replace the arms. Some of them, after a while they develop some corrosion on the pivot and they no longer will hold tension against the blade. You'll notice, you'll see the blade going back and forth but yet it's not cleaning the back window. A lot of cases it is because of the frozen pivot. Other times they simply break. You turn the wipers on when your rear window is all iced up. And there's snow or build up on that and it can actually break the arm off. So, for whatever reason, we're going to touch base on replacing it. Now, when you get the aftermarket unit that we supply, which is nice because it comes with the cover. It comes with the washer hose. It comes with the nozzle. It's essentially a complete unit. So, what's nice about that is, is because when you initially remove that arm you're going to take the cover and you're going to twist it and pull it off. Sometimes it breaks. Sometimes it doesn't. But it doesn't matter. You have a new one with your replacement piece. So that's fine. So we're going to move you in a little closer just to show you the location of this wiper arm. Take a good look at it. You can get to it behind the spare. Some of you may feel more comfortable taking the spare off and putting it right out in front of you. That's your choice. But we're going to do this demonstration without removing the spare tire.Pull all the broken pins out. You can use that with a pair of diags. Set the good ones in the corners and the center. Pop your panel back on. We'll put your bezel back on. And then we'll do a final sweep and then check for a final adjustment. All right, so what we did was we hopped in. We turned the key on. Pushed the washer button. Let it run through its sweeps. This way we make sure both the washer is working and the wiper runs into its final setting. And we got lucky. Dead center and parallel with the bottom molding of the rear window. So now we're just going to make sure that that nut is nice and snug. We're going to slide our cover right over the top. And it's just a matter of popping it in place. And where the 2 pins are just give it a little squeeze to lock it in. And you're done. So, when you're ready to change over the rear wiper arm on your Disco 2 from 1999 to 2004, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install mud flaps on a Land Rover LR4 2011-2012. Using Mud Flaps Part # VPLAP0017G , you will find the addition of the rear mud flaps helpful in diminishing road spray and grime on the rear window. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us at http://www.roverparts.com
Part#: VPLAP0017G Installing Rear Mud Flaps On LR4Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about rear mud flaps for the LR4s. The reason being is we're hearing more and more from LR4 owners that without the mud flaps, and especially in the wintertime, you get a lot of road salt and debris and whatnot kicks up from under the vehicle and it coats the rear window to the point where even the rear wiper won't clean it completely off. So we found with the installation of rear mud flaps it seems to knock that down quite a bit. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install mud flaps. It's very easy. And by doing so you can reduce a lot of that build up on the back window. So now what we're going to do before we install the kit, just give you an idea of what you get when you order your rear flaps. And essentially you get pre molded, factory flaps. These are designed to meet the contours of the body of the vehicle. The hardware you need to install. And of course instructions which you're going to find the first thing is when you read the instructions is the only tool you need to replace these is a Phillips screw driver. This is going to be a very easy job. We have this up on the lift, but you can sort of do the same just by starting your vehicle, putting it up on access, your high mode, your off road more for your air suspension which will give you plenty clearance and you can get a screw driver in there to change these over. So let's begin. We'll show you how to get them in. All right, so, you have one screw here directly on the bottom. And one screw right there. We're going to just simply take those two off. And then we have to get up underneath. We're going to show you there is one area where one of those blue plastic, I guess you could call it a nut, is going to get popped in. And from that point then you can just attach your bracket. So let's get this apart. All right, so just to give you an idea of where we're working next, you have the back muffler right here. Behind that we have the heat shield. What we're going to do is show you then we're going to move the heat shield back a little bit, show you and basically expose this square opening right here, which is where we're going to pop that little blue nut in place. One thing so we'll mention. The two small brackets that come with this kit are actually labelled left and right. And it makes a difference on how they go on. And these essentially will end up being attached to where we just put that blue nut on the part of the frame behind the heat shield. So the next step is we're going to take another one of these blue nuts. Going to pop that on there. Grab a screw. And essentially attach this now to that area and that will put this blue nut on the center right here for this third hole. So it's a little bit of a tight fit but you're going to hold that bracket so that it runs up against the back side of this inner arch. You can just fit a screw driver in there and we're just going to run that screw in and lock it down. All right so this is what your bracket is going to look like installed. Now what I'll probably suggest is back that screw off about half a turn and just enough to make this loose. Because you may not be lined up exactly in the hole right here on the facing. So what we're going to do is essentially leave that a little bit loose so we can maneuver it and then we'll put the fender flap on and once that's on we can come back, lock that down and push the heat shield back in place. Okay, so, now we're just simply going to take our mud flap, set it up in place there. And you'll probably put the top screw in place first. What we're going to do is we're going to reuse the two screws that we took out initially and put them back in the same areas that they came from. One up top. And one down below. And we're going to leave them loose. So that we can line up that center screw. Those two are in. And now we go to our last but not least. If you're doing this with the tire on this one screw, you may want to grab a little stubby screw driver so you can get in here. And run that in. All right, so here's our mud flap installed. Like I said we're just reusing the top screw, bottom screw and then just the one add on bracket with the center screw. Easy install. And we'll just do the same to the other side. And really within a short period of time we have mud flaps. Which will actually as I said earlier, greatly reduce the amount of dirt build up on your back windows on your LR4. So, when youre ready to put back mud flaps on your LR4, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order them online. And if you like our videos, and you find them helpful, you can also go to our YouTube site and subscribe to that, and end up getting more helpful videos to help you maintain your Land Rover. So thanks we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Is the exterior moulding or cowl that sits just under the windshield of your D2 cracking and distorting? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates the removal and replacement of the Center Air Intake Moulding (part # JAK000010PMAG ) on our Discovery Series II. This part is also referred to as the Windshield Cowl or Windshield Finisher. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Part #: JAK000010PMAG Center Air Intake Moulding Replacement On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative hear at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to replace the lower intake cowl for the windshield on your Discovery 2. This is part number JAK000010PMAG. Yeah, it's a bit of a long number. But this is the replacement for the bottom cowl. And it actually includes the filter, which this is actually your cabin filter, in essence. This is what filters your air before it goes into your climate control system. You'll also notice you got four large holes where as you're only going to have 2 openings for the windshield wipers. And that's because this is actually designed after the original equipment to be able to be used on both the right hand or left drive vehicle. And then there are plugs that we're going to take out of the old one that will be installed on this so that it looks just like the original design. Now one thing I do want to mention. Well first off, these are also, there are several different names for these. Some call them a windshield cowl, windshield finisher. We refer to it on our website as a center air intake moulding. So in case you don't remember the number, you haven't written it down, you can use that to look it up on the website. Now as a note, just quickly before we begin installation, when these things come through, sometimes from the delivery, this seal can be pulled back a little bit and there's a little groove in the seal and it sits over a lip right on the edge of the cowl. This is what seats against the windshield. So you just want to check to make sure that this is on and fully seated all the way down its length. It will make a big difference on how it looks when you put it all together. Okay, so what we're going to do now is we're going to show you the installation process. It's not that bad to do. Just need a few tools to do it. And let's get started. First thing we're going to do is we're going to pop the hood on this. The way these are designed, this cowl is very tough to get out without moving the hood out of the way. And it's not all that bad to do this. It's not a lot of un-bolting. What you're going to do is set your hood up. And all you've got is 4 bolts that hold the hood to the hinges. 2 on each side. We're going to take these bolts out and then actually lower the hood and slide it forward, only about 3 or 4 inches. That's all we need. And that will give us enough room for the cowl and still prevent you from having to take the hood all the way off the vehicle.They will spin fairly easy. Just get them snug. Double check and verify. Just to make sure you're still lined up. And once you get them snug, and the hoods not going anywhere, tighten them up from that point. And again, they don't have to be real tight. Bring them in until you feel the bolt seat and then about a quarter of a turn. And we're there. We're just going to do the same to the other side. Once we've done that we know that the hood is going to close exactly like it did before we took it apart. So now you see our hood is on. Our lines are straight. She's on exactly the way it was. Our cowl is in place. Our wipers are there. You want to double check just to make sure the wipers are fully operational. And they park where they're supposed to. And then we're good. Your cowl is in. The other thing I'll mention too is in the process of doing that, if you see you've got problems with these corner finishers, or they look like they could use replacing, this would be a good time to do that. We do offer these also on our website. And we have a video on how to install these as well. So, that would set you up for all the way around the windshield. So, when you're ready to replace your lower intake moulding, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in replacing the old, warn “RANGE ROVER” front and rear decals on a Range Rover Sport 2014.
Today we're working on a 2014 Range Rover Sport that's owned here by Atlantic British. We're actually going to be replacing the front decals. The extruded decals from the hood and from the trunk lid. As you can see they are, they don't actually delaminate, they actually lose their color. They are bonded on by a double-sided sticky tape. I have, everybody has their own kind of removal practices for these in the auto industry. Mine is with a heat gun gently heating up the letters as you go. I already removed one, the letter R from here. It does tend to leave a bit of glue on there so afterwards I use a bit of goo gone, or just gently rub it with a bit of warm water or even your thumb and the glue does come off. After removing all the decals I'm gonna wipe it down and make sure it's nice and clean, probably even wax, sorry, polish the front of the hood area so we get a nice clean surface to bond on the new decals to the body of the vehicle. We have here, this is my own tool, blue in color. Once I've heated I will gently push underneath, you can actually see the 'e' is actually almost loose at this point. When it's heated up it'll just peel right off with the dull plastic edge of the spatula tool. We sell the tool kit here at Atlantic British. Comes in different sizes. It is for removing mouldings and fasteners. This one here is exactly the same as what I have. These are great for removing door panels. Another one here - this is good to work against glass windows and generally a good hook tool. These are the decals were putting on the vehicle. This one, this set is for the front, this set is for the rear. Don't ask me why, they look just the same to me but I'm sure there's a reason. So I'm going to start by heating up the hood. You can use a hairdryer if you need to. It's probably less invasive, does the same job. It's always good to do it on a hot day. Unfortunately we don't have a hot day here in New England. We've got snow on the ground, but a nice warm warehouse. So gentle heat, not too close to the car. Just enough to warm up the body. I like to keep the heat gun moving and not direct the heat in one place too long so not to burn the paint or any, cause any other damage. I'm actually gonna try and push it off now. Ah, there it's coming, there it goes. Just carry on the whole procedure for the same. As you can see it leaves a gluey residue behind but not the end of the world. It can be removed quite easily. You see the paint starting to bubble you're using too much heat. Keep a safe distance. I keep checking it with my hand just to make sure. It doesn't get any cleaner than that. Okay so as you can see we've got the front of the hood look clean. I polished it once I got the glue off with a medium coarse polish. I felt it was probably just a little aggressive so I went over it with that sheer color sensitive to green polish, made by Turtle Wax, and that actually brought the color back somewhat in line with the rest of the car and got rid of the swirls. So now we're gonna try and apply the decal, the RANGE to the front of the vehicle. There is a piece of paper you pull off the back. I actually pulled it off of this piece. You pull it off and then hopefully we can line it up. Oh it's on now. And it does have a wave to it. It's meant to. They come on the card. As you can see the ROVER sways up a bit at the end to take the body line of the car. I think looks alright. I'm quite happy with that. So I'm quite happy without hold the Range Rover emblem came out on the vehicle. It looks good. It's the same procedure exactly for the rear of the vehicle. The hardest bit of the work is definitely removing of the glue. It takes some time. A nice solvent for that which won't harm the paint and a good polish before you apply the new letters. The lettering whether the decal being Range Rover, Land Rover, Discovery 1, 2, 3, LR4, LR3 of course, a new discovery, you can order right here through us if you like and talk to any of our professional salesman out front. If we don't have it in stock we can get it in stock and available for you. Again the tool makes it even easier. We have this kit in stock. Not too sure what the pricing is but I know we always keep it in stock and a good strong hairdryer or if you're a shop of course you may have access to a heat gun. There's not much else to it. So feel free to call any of our sales team 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you the steps involved in changing over the rear brake pads and rear rotors on your Range Rover Sport or Land Rover LR3. Doug will also explain how to adjust the parking brake, which sits behind the rear rotor, as well as other helpful tips to get the replacement brakes installed, and to get your Rover back on the road.
Rear Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement on LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on your LR3 and or Sport. It's the same application on both vehicles, same procedure, basically the same parts. So it will be the right procedure for both vehicles. So essentially the big issue is not so much the replacement of the pads, which is relatively easy, but removal of the rotor because of the parking brake assembly built inside. No I get a lot of calls on that so we're going to touch base on that, on how to back them off, how to readjust them on reassembly, just to make it a lot easier in the long run so you can see how it's done. So just like any other basic brake system in the back, we're going to compress the caliper piston in place. If you fully compress it now it will make it much easier for reassembly when you have those new pads in place and the thicknesses are much wider. So there it is, it's your rear brakes on your 2006 Sport. Now the application on this Sport it will be exactly the same on a 2006 to 2009 LR3 or even an LR4 and the 2010 to 2012 Sport. So the process will be all the same. Including how the pad sensor is. So that's pretty much it. When you're ready to do the rear brakes on your Sport or LR3 just call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you. Thanks for watching.
Have the headlight lenses on your Land Rover or Range Rover taken on a clouded and yellowed appearance? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, apply the Sonax Headlight Restoration Kit , to the lenses of our Range Rover Sport Supercharged to bring the headlights back to their original transparency for a more attractive appearance and safer driving. This Headlight Restorer will work on any type vehicle's plastic headlight lens, including plastic taillight lenses. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210. For more how-to videos on any Rover vehicle, visit Resources video section .
Kit # SON405941 Headlight Restorer Kit Applying Sonax Headlight Restorer On Any Land Rover Plastic Headlight LensHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about a product that we carry now to help you with an issue that's been starting to show up now on some of the older Sports and basically any vehicle that has the plastic headlight lenses. Something a lot of people don't take into consideration, that they are plastic. They are a very heavy duty plastic but as you're going down the road at 50, 60, 70 miles per hour, and just the normal dirt and debris, it's essentially like sandblasting them. So over a period of time they get very fogged, they get discolored. So of course the lighting level of your vehicle diminishes as they fog up. Which is not a safe condition. you want those lenses as clear as possible. So, what we have here is a product that will help you eliminate, or at least greatly reduce the amount of damage that has been done to those lenses. Because replacement on a lot of these assemblies are very, very expensive. So essentially what you get in the kit is 2 sanding pads. One of them, with the white side, actually they both have white. And the white is a coarse, and I'm going to say coarse, but yet it just feels like a cotton pad. And then you have a fine on the other side, and we're going to show you why in a few minutes. I'm going to show you basically how to apply this. You have a polishing compound which you're going to use because essentially what that fogging is, is not only chemical, but it is also the fact that you've now developed a rough surface on the lexan. So essentially we're going to polish it out. You've also got sealer that when we're all said and done with the cleaning, you're going to put the sealer on there to help protect it, along with several other polishing, or buffing pads to help wipe it all clean. So, this is a German made product. It's very good quality. Definitely works. And what we have behind me here is a 2006 Sport that's starting to do the same thing. And we're going to show you how to use it. So before I begin what we're going to do is show you this is what we're dealing with. You have areas that are fogged around the perimeter of the lenses. The most important area is right in front of the headlights.And then essentially what you'll do is come back with the polishing pad and then you're going to wipe that down. And that's going to look nice and clean. So, there are several different things this will do for you. One, obviously it's going to improve you're night vision. Two, and it's amazing how much better it makes the vehicle look when the headlights are clean and shiny as opposed to all fogged out. That fogging actually just makes the vehicle start to show its age. So, by polishing out the headlights it actually will improve the looks of the vehicle as well. So this will essentially work on any of these plastic lenses you're going to see on Land Rover, Range Rover, but any other vehicles that have these plastic lenses. And it will work just as well on fogged out taillights as well. It's the same material, the same plastic so you can use it on the taillights. So when you're ready to improve your night vision and you want to make your vehicle look better, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Are your Land Rover Grille Emblems worn and dingy? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the grille emblems on a Land Rover Sport Supercharged. This video shows the process that will work for grille emblem/badge replacement on most Land Rovers or Range Rovers.
Remove and Replace the Land Rover Grille Emblem/Badge On Most Land Rover and Range RoversHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going talk about badges. And that's essentially how they reference this. This is the little tag, the little oval you'll see on the front and back of your Land Rover. You'll notice that on this one this one has a black background. You can see the difference, as the ones up front especially because they get sand blasted and whatnot over the years while you're driving. So, you may look at that and go eh, it's looking a little dingy, might want to do a nice upgrade. Make my truck look fairly like new again. So, in this case, because this is a Supercharged model, this is going to have the black background. On the vehicles equipped with the 4.4, non Supercharged, you're going to use the green background. And we do list both in our catalog. Unless you want to fool your neighbor and make them think you have a Supercharged, you can put the black emblems on your 4.4. So, to change them over is relatively easy. There's just a light adhesive on the back that holds them in place. The only things you're going to need to change it is probably just a small straight tipped screw driver, and then I recommend you go in and raid your first aid kit and find an alcohol pad because what we're going to do is clean the back of this out with the alcohol so there's no grease and that the adhesive on the back of that badge is going to stick good and solid, it's not going to fly off on you. So, to start with, we're just going to take a nice small screw driver and we're going to work in behind there. We don't need to pry hard. We just keep working at it a little bit at a time. We don't want to do any damage to the grille. And you'll see that just very gently, we can peel this out of here. Adhesive is pretty strong, but definitely removable. All right, so we're just going to keep working that a little bit at a time. We don't need to go crazy. And there we are. All right. So the old one's out. Take our little alcohol pad. Now just as I say, this doesn't come with the badge, so you may want to grab one of these. Like I say you can find them in most first aid kits or even just if you have any rubbing alcohol around the house, put that in a clean rag. And we just want to rub the back out just so we have no grease. All right so we took that little straight blade screw driver and we basically ended up with some little chunks here and there and we scraped that out. We wiped this really good with some rubbing alcohol. And give it a couple minutes. We're going to let it dry out. And then all you simply need to do is just peel off the back. Hold on to this. Don't drop it. Sort of set that in place. And just feel it into the spot. And just give it a good squeeze to get it in there. Once that locks on that's not going to go anywhere. And don't be afraid to spend a few extra minutes to do that. You want to get that area cleaned out as well as possible. And there we are. That looks much better. Now we're going to do the same in the back and the vehicle is going to look so much better for it. So when you're ready to either replace the badges, or do a little upgrade on your 4.4, just get a hold of any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential, transfer case and axle oil service ( using our complete kit # DTCM600A ) on a Discovery I, 1994 - 1999. In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differentials and transfer case. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 30,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Kit #: DTCM600A Performing Differential, Axle & Transfer Case Service On Discovery I 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to introduce you to another one of our maintenance kits as part of our maintenance and repair academy. This kit is for the 1994 to 1998 Discovery I. And it is for changing the fluids in the front and rear differentials, the transfer case and the front swivel balls. Now we have the kit laid out for you here. Where you have all your fluids that you need to change on all 4 items. Along with new drain plugs, fills plugs, washers. Right across the board. Gives you everything you need. Now it's always best to replace the old plugs with the new ones, only because in cases like where you have a female receptacle. You get this full of rust and whatnot it's hard to get the tool in. Plus it will just end up making the job look better when youre done. Now, this is a copy of the sheet that you can download and make copies of right from our website. And this is all part of our maintenance and repair academy. And you'll see differential, axle and transfer case maintenance kit. Recommended every 30,000 miles. And then it gives you a list a breakdown of all the components that come with the kit. That Kit number is DTCM600A. And again they do recommend every 30,000 miles, but if you put your vehicle through rough service, do a lot of off roading and whatnot. Especially in wet damp areas, it's usually best to change that a little more regularly. You definitely don't want moisture or condensation building up in any of these components because it can cause bearing damage along with other internal components. So, this is a good maintenance to do. And it can be done easily. It's just a matter of drain and refill. And what we're going to do now is we're going to show you the points where you're going to do your drain and refill for all 4 components. Alright. So. To change over the fluids on the differentials and the transfer case on this we're going to start on the front. And it's just a simple matter of a drain and refill. You have a drain plug down on the bottom. You're going to use a half inch either breaker bar or long handled ratchet because initially, especially if they've been in there for a while they're going to come out a little tight. So to break them loose you need some leverage. So you want something with about an 18 to 24 inch handle. You're going to remove that plug. Let her drain. Wipe off the inside. If you have a little bit of solvent that would be good because you are going to find material stuck to the backside of this plug. When you go to refill, reinstall your bottom plug. Take your fill plug back out. And you're going to top this off using the specifications that you receive for this differential. Don't use the bottom of the hole as your level. Land Rover does even states it in some of the manuals that this is not necessarily the level for this differential. So you're going to look up the specifications and put that amount of fluid in there. No more, no less. Reinstall your plug. Again, half inch drive. You're done with the front axle. Now we'll move to the transfer case. Alright for the transfer case you have a drain plug down at the very bottom. You're going to take this out. Again you're going to find material probably stuck to the backside of it. Clean it all off. Clean your surface back off before you reinstall it so you don't end up with any leaks. You don't want to have to drain that new fluid back out. When you're done draining reinstall your plug. And then up top and right here - and it does look hard to get at - but with a 4 inch half inch drive extension and a ratchet which will end up sitting right in this slot, you'll be able to take that plug out. Again, before you take it out you want to wipe that area down. Get any loose material and whatnot off. You don't need that dropping inside your transfer case. Take that plug out. Again you're going to fill it to the specified amount. Not using the bottom of the hole as the drain. Now you may come very close. In some cases you may find it to be that's where you go when you fill it with the proper amount. Butt, use the specified amount. No more, no less. Reinstall your plug and youre done with the transfer case. And now we're going to move on to the rear axle. Now, changing the rear axle - going to be the same format as the front. Drain plug on the bottom. Half inch drive. Clean the material off before you take off the plugs. Make sure you don't want to get any junk built up in there. Clean the backside of the plug. Reinstall the plug after the axle drains. Your fill plug. Again you're going to put in the specified amount. You're going to wipe off any loose material or dirt built up around that plug before you take it out. Maybe even a small wire brush. In the case of something like this where you have a lot of crud built up. Take a little wire brush. Clean that area off. Take the plug out. Fill it to the specified amount. Put your plug back in. You're all done. When you're ready to change over the fluids on your differentials and on the transfer case and it's always best to do them all at once. Order your kit through any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the air filter on a Discovery I 1994 - 1999. Using Part # ESR1445 , it is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Questions about this service? Call us toll free at 1-800-533-2210 to speak with one of our knowledgeable product specialists or contact us via live chat.
Part #: ESR1445 Replacing Air Filter On Discovery I, 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And we're going to introduce you to one of the maintenance and repair kits that we have for the Discovery 1, 1996 to 1999. This is the air filter kit which is actually a regular maintenance that you should be doing on your Land Rover. Definitely want to check the air filter on a regular basis. They can grossly affect your drivability, your fuel economy should they get dirty, plugged up. So you definitely want to keep an eye on them. So, what we have here is our kit number ESR1445. What you receive is 1 air filter that meets Land Rover specifications. Comes with the seal already built into the air filter just like the original. Now what I am going to do now is show you how to install your air filter and take care of this maintenance yourself. Alright. So, first thing - fender cover. You don't want to put any scratches or dings in your Land Rover so I always recommend put a cover down. It only takes a couple seconds. Should you not have any covers, we actually do offer these in our website catalog so you want to look at these we have them available in red and black. So, here is the air filter assembly that we showed you. And it's a simple matter of clips, 4 clips on the box cover itself and 2 that attach it to the mass airflow sensor and your air temperature sensor. The air temperature sensor has a little metal ring around where you can just wiggle and disconnect that. You can take a flat blade screw driver and grab the bottom of the clips. I recommend using a screw driver instead of your fingers because sometimes these clips can be a little on the tight side. They'll come up and snap your fingers and it doesn't feel good. Just grab the bottom loop and pull up. Same with the clips on the mass airflow sensor. You don't have to disconnect the mass airflow. Just leave it. Pull cover off. 2 things you want to notice on this air filter. One, it's obviously dirty. 2, it wasn't originally installed properly and you can see how it's pulled that down and it's drawing in dirt and whatnot down into the filter. Or actually this is going to filter from the bottom up. You can see this build up right here. This gets on this screen for the mass airflow sensor can directly affect the way that the vehicle performs. So, as you can see, we got our money's worth out of that one. Looks like we have a tenant. This is the first time I've pulled this cover off on this vehicle. So we obviously had a tenant in there as well. So, that's the other thing. You want to wipe out the box. Clean it out. Get any debris out of there. Maybe grab a shop vac, clean all that out of there. Secondly, when you put this back together and I noticed in on this one. There should be an O ring around this mass airflow sensor. So you want to make sure that the O ring is there. If you don't see it, check around, make sure it didn't drop off when you disconnected the top cover. If not, you want to get a replacement. And it's just a simple matter of when you put the new one in, set it in place. Make sure the gasket is fully set all around. And then just simply reinstall the top the way you took it off. Wiggle that around until you actually feel it seat down in place. And then it is just grab the top loop. As you can see where you have a little tab right there where the clamp grabs onto. Push straight down. Clamp straight down. And just do that all the way around. Mass airflow sensor - same thing. Clip into the hole that they have on the backside. Clamp it in. Don't forget to plug your sender back in. And that's it. You have an air filter. Now you can obviously with the way this one is plugged up, this was going to affect the way the vehicle ran. Definitely going to affect your fuel economy as well. With the price of gas these days you want to try and keep that as low as possible. So for a minimal amount of work, for a minimal amount of money, you can do a good maintenance on your vehicle. Do check your air filter on a regular basis. And again, when you're ready to change this over, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential & transfer case oil service ( using complete kit # DTCM200A ) on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005 (L322). In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differentials and transfer case. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 60,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Part # DTCM200A Performing Differential & Transfer Case Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we want to touch base on a maintenance kit that we have available through our maintenance and repair academy for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also referred to as L322. Now this kit will set you up so that you can do a fluid changeover in both front and rear differential and in the transfer case. Now you'll see here I have a sheet that's accessible, downloadable and printable off of our website and we're looking at our differential and transfer case service kit number DTCM200A. And what's included is is our transfer case kit which you'll see numbered here and our differential service kit you'll see numbered here. And what it will do is give you the proper fluids to be able to change over the fluid in both front and rear diff, and in the transfer case. With the proper fluid. New drain plugs. New fill plugs. And new gaskets. This is something that's recommended should be done really every 60,000 miles. Just like any petroleum based fluid, they do break down over a period of time. You will get condensation build up in the differentials and the transfer case. You definitely don't want water in either one of those. So it is an important service that should be done on a regular basis. So, this is the kit we have available for you. And in a minute we're going to raise this vehicle up and we're going to show you basically the locations of your drain and fill plugs so that you can do your service efficiently. Alright so we're going to start with the front differential. We got our L322 up in the air. And in the front diff on these. The front differential is actually attached to the side of the oil pan. You're going to see a large drain plug right here at the very bottom of the diff. To access it you will probably need to remove this splash pan, which is nothing more than 4 bolts. You'll need a 16 millimeter socket and ratchet, or if you're fortunate enough, impact gun. But these will run right out. Once you get this out of the way you're able to get a short extension on there. Now these plugs use a large allen head, which in this case is either you can use a 16 millimeter or, I'm sorry, A 9 16th or 14 millimeter will fit those. This is a socket that I got off my tool man. You can probably get one through any one of the automotive repair centers or one that carries a good line of tools. This one has a removable end so that you can replace it with other sizes. Which comes in very handy. But this is a tool you are going to need to remove those plugs. The fill plug has the same thing. It's 14 millimeter hex, and that sets way up here, which you can access through the side over the frame with a short extension and a ratchet. And you're just going to top that off right with the level of the bottom of the plug. Make sure when you go to reinstall your bottom plug when you fill it, is to wipe it off. You're going to have some build up on there. You want to take a clean rag. Wipe that area off. With the kit you are going to get new plugs anyway which is a good idea. Clean, wipe the threads off inside. Make sure that, in some cases the dirt can jam up in the threads. You think it's tight and it's not. You end up with a leak. So, make sure your threads are good and clean before you put it back together. So now we're going to move down to the transfer case. And like the front diff, the differential is pretty accessible. You have your drain plug here. This is also going to have a sealing washer in the back. Which you are going to get with the kit. And up here is your refill. Now in the case of the transfer case you want to check what the specifications are as far how much fluid to put in. Don't necessarily use the bottom of the hole as your fill point. You're going fill this up with the specified amount and the specified amount only. Reinstall your plug. Same thing you're going to get new plugs, wipe the threads out. Make sure they're good and clean. Make sure the surfaces where the seals run against has been good and clean. You're doing this as a maintenance item, you really don't need to create any more leaks. So we're going to work our way back to the rear differential. Now we're here at the rear diff. And again, pretty accessible. Your drain plug right here. And that's going to be the same as the front differential where you can use a 9 16th or a 14 millimeter hex allen wrench drive. Plug is in here. Again clean the threads out. You need to take the plug out. You're going to get a new plug with the kit. So you don't have to worry about wiping this one off. And then to refill. Here's your fill plug right here. Again, easily accessible from the back. wipe the threads off. Make sure your threads are clean before you put your plug back in. Fill to the specified amount. Not necessarily using the bottom of the hole as your level point. Always fill with the specified amount. And that's pretty much it. And as much as, It's a relatively easy job. Do it out in the driveway. Just make sure you have pans big enough. You're going to catch all the fluids. You don't need to make a mess. But it does wonders for the longevity for any of these components. Because you will get condensation build up in there. You will get some moisture. You will get some wear. You will get some fluid breakdown. It's a petroleum based fluid. It will break down over a period time. So, nice little weekend project or Saturday afternoon. It wont take you all that long to do. Drain and refill. Works very good. If you're not really sure how to fill these. Trying to find an easy way - I use a suction gun. Suction gun you can draw the fluid out of the bottle, insert into the hole and fill. And that's pretty much it. When you're ready to change over the fluids on your differential and transfer case in your L322, now this is 2003 to 2005 with the BMW engine and driveline. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service (using kit # TRANSM300SKA ) on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and pan, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in the service kit, along with a replacement automatic transmission valve sleeve, which is prone to leaking. This service should be performed every 60,000 miles. Please Note: While this Transmission Service Kit (TRANSM300SKA) is the same for Range Rover Sport models, the process for this service differs from Range Rover Full SIze. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to our live chat.
Kit #: TRANSM300SKA Performing Transmission Service On Range Rover Full Size Supercharged 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on another one of our maintenance kits that we have available. This one in particular is for a 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover. Known as the L322. And this will apply to both the Supercharged 4.2 and the 4.4 naturally aspirated. And this is the transmission service kit that we have available. And this is all part of our maintenance and repair academy that you can find on our website. Not only that, but you can copy and download our sheet that gives you all the maintenance items that we recommend for that vehicle. Now, on the transmission kit, which is listed down here in the bottom left corner, is TRANSM300SKA. It's recommended every 60,000 miles or every 10 years. Just like any other petroleum based fluid, transmission fluid will break down over a period of time. So it's definitely a good idea to change them over on a regular basis. And what you'll get with the kit is the ZF Lifeguard transmission. This is the fluid, this is the recommended fluid for this vehicle. You really dont want to use many substitutes. The ZFs are very particular about what type of fluid they use and how well they perform. You'll also get a new pan. And the reason for that is because the pan incorporates the filter. You'll see the filter built right into the base of the pan. Your pick up tube. And it will also give you the 2 new magnets that you'll find in the original when you drop it down. Now these magnets are here to pick up any composite or any wear material that you're going to get from the transmission just simply due to normal wear. And it's a good idea not to have it floating through the system. The magnets will pick that up and hold that until you're ready to do your changeover. Now, this pan comes in a large bag in the box. And you'll find in the bag the new O ring for the pick up tube. Now I just want to make sure I make note on that because you may pull this out initially. This is kind of small, you don't really see it right off that bat. So make sure you look in your bag to get your O ring. So, that's essentially the kit that you're going to get. Definitely a highly recommended maintenance item to do on your vehicle. Not that hard to do. Matter of fact what we're going to do now is we have a 2008 Supercharged Range Rover right here and we're going to run through the process of how to change over the transmission fluid and filter in your vehicle.Once you've reached that point, put your plug back in, make sure it's fully seated. Wipe off any excess that you got on the exhaust or on the frame. You don't need any dripping in the driveway. And then you're done. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your L322 Full Size, this is 2006 to 2009. And the same procedure applies to whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using our oil change kit # LPW100230SKA , which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers. It is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Kit #: LPW100230SKA Performing Oil Change Service On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to cover one of the maintenance kits that we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander. Which is going to be your oil change kit. Now this is part of our maintenance and repair academy, which we have listed on our website. And you can actually go to our website, download and print this sheet which gives you all of the different maintenance kits we have available for that vehicle. In this video we're going to talk about our oil change kit. This would be kit number LPW100230SKA. Now because this is the one maintenance you're going to do more often than any of the rest, and it is a very important maintenance to do, when you order the kit you're going to get enough for 2 oil changes. It's nice to be able to do the 1 oil change you're ready to do now. When you're ready to do another one just down the road, you already have all your parts and your kits. You save a little bit on the shipping. And it's nice to have everything there for you when you're ready to do it. Because, oil changes can sneak up on you. So, what you essentially get is 2 filters. 2 new drain plugs. And 2 new drain plug gaskets. Relatively easy maintenance to do. A lot of people do them as a, in the driveway, in the garage. Very easy. Very inexpensive. And a huge, huge, huge maintenance item on your vehicle. So, we have a 2002 to 2005 Freelander up in the air. We're going to show you the basics as far as access to the filter and the plug and how to drain your own oil. Okay, so, we have the vehicle up in the air. We're ready to drop this panel. You'll notice that there is a full shield or panel that covers the underside of the vehicle on this. And your choices to access the drain and the fuel filter are either to remove this entire panel, which can get a little bit involved and of course after a while the hardware underneath gets a little bit on the rusty side. Doesn't come out very easy. Or, there are 2 rivets right here that hold the panel to a bracket. And a lot of technicians, especially technicians those that do the oil changes on a regular basis on these Freelanders, will drill these rivets out and just strictly remove them. Once you've taken those out you still have this bolt and bracket holding this in place so it's not going to fall out on you. Then, you just drop this 1 bolt. And the panel just swings down and now gives you access to the oil filter and to the drain plug. But the oil filter, you can get any one of the 3 finger contracting tools, or you can get a cup tool that fits because this is a slotted filter on the end, so they make the little sockets that will fit over the top of those. Your drain plug, which you'll be getting a new drain plug and new gasket. Once you've removed the plug and drain your oil, before you reinstall, make sure you wipe it off and get a nice clean surface on that. Same thing with the oil filter. Always check to make sure that the O Ring on the oil filter didn't stay attached to the bottom side of the flange so that when you go to put the new filter on, you're going to end up with a leak. Always make sure that the old gasket came out with the filter. So it's just simply a screw off screw back in on the filter. Drain your oil. Reinstall your bolt. Now you want to check in your owners manual to see what viscosity oil works best in the region that you live in because there are some minor differences. So always refer to your owners manual, that will also give you the capacity, or how much oil you should use to refill this engine. And that's basically it. That's just an easy maintenance to do. That's very inexpensive. Something you can do in a matter of an hour. And does a world of good to your vehicle. So, when you're ready to do the oil change on your Freelander, this is for 2002 to 2005 with the 3 liter V6. Call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
When the rear brake backing plate starts to rot where the pins for the parking brake shoes are retained, it is important to replace this item to avoid further damage to your braking system. With our NEW Split Shell Design, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explains the process involved in replacing the rear brake backing plates for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged, LR3 or LR4. Our money-saving kit # PARKBRAKIT02 includes the left and right brake backing plates and connecting hardware, and parking brake shoes. What makes this rear brake backing plate kit special from the original is the new split shell two-piece design we use. With the original design, to access to replace you must disassemble part of the rear suspension, etc., which could involve damaging some components (through removal). You will avoid this with our kit at installation, since we work around those components. In this video, you will also see Doug remove and re-install the parking brake shoes and connect cable.
tech support rep here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about backing plates and specifically backing plates for the 2006 to 09 Sport. Both the naturally aspirated and the supercharged. 2010 to 2013 naturally aspirated 5 liter LR3 and LR4. And you probably most people might recognize these. These backing plates sit just ahead of the and behind the rotor, your disc brake rotor, designed to keep rocks and splash and whatnot from getting all over the brakes. Again they're not water tight but they're there to serve a purpose. So what can happen is in areas that use a lot of salt on the roads or if you're on a shore area by salt water over a period of time these backing plates can deteriorate and this is a perfect example. This is off of an 06 Sport. Now not only are these there as a splash shield but they're also the support and the mounting area for the parking brakes. So it's critical that we maintain these to keep the parking brakes working properly. So I'll get you rid of that. So the issue is that when you go to change these that most of these vehicles are designed so that you can't get the backing plate off unless you pull the rear hub, which in most cases you're going to destroy the bearing and if you destroy the bearing you got to press that on and off which means taking the knuckle assembly off the back of the vehicle which means trying to get those two bolts for the upper and lower ball joint out which are usually frozen in place and it just turns it into a huge job. So what we've done to get around that is we've come up with a two-piece backing plate. You have metal brackets here that line up that you can install these without having to take the hub off and then set these in place. You'll have the three bolts that hold the plate naturally as it is as designed plus the two additional plates to hold everything together and keep it aligned. You'll end up with a good solid setup. And you can apply the parking brakes on these. So this is essentially what you would receive is the two rear backing plates both left and right hand side, the hardware needed to bolt the plates to that. Eerything else you're going to use the old hardware on. So stay tuned. We're gonna show you how to install them. All right. In addition to rotted backing plates a real known issue on this parking brake assembly is for the shoes to come apart or one of the springs to rot out and let go and you're probably going to find once you get the rotors off and you get a good look at it more than likely you're gonna need a replacement of those shoes. So just wanted to show you the kit that we've put together where we have the four parking brake shoes. You have two on each side. One on each side has the lever that it connects to the parking brake cable and then you also have your adjustment mechanism. And then essentially your replacement springs this would be the spring around the parking brake cable. We'll show you how to install that and then the upper and lower spring for the shoes. So reasonably a pretty basic setup and then of course you're gonna reuse the old adjustment knob for the bottom. In case that got damaged that's available as a separate part as well as long as well as the crossbar that goes from shoe to shoe. And generally those aren't damaged. They're usually in pretty good shape and you can reuse those. Should you need them though they are available. So to show you what happens we actually take one of our, this is one of our vehicles, this is an 06 Sport and the driver had noticed the loud grinding noise from the back and when we got into inspecting it to find what the noise or the source of the noise was it turns out our back end plates are all rotted out to the point where they've moved in, they're rubbing against the rust ridge on the outside of the rotor. You've got literally holes right through there so as a splash shield they become basically useless. And on the other side it became so weak that the front half of it actually folded in and created an opening. So this is how bad they can get and like I say we're in the New York area. You're gonna see this basically in any state that lays heavy salt in the wintertime, calcium chloride or if you live along a shore anywhere along the east or west shorelines, you're gonna have the salt air and it's going to do the same thing. So that's some pretty bad shape. So let's show you how to get those replaced. Alright so first to start this what I usually like to do is I want to compress the piston in the caliper so that I can take the caliper off easily and that we do by just inserting this onto the backside of the rotor and up against the caliper body. Not against the mount. And then we're just go to very easily and you can see it's starting to move we're just gonna bring back pressure until that seats the piston. And once you get about half way you can knock this in, get in behind that inboard pad and you feel it move it a little bit easier. And you'll feel it seek better too. And we'll just keep coming back can we get some room there. Before we start taking the caliper apart we're going to shoot a little penetrating oil in there because we have the, we're doing the right side, the pad sensor is right here so you pull off the cover for the bleeder screw. And lift that wire out of there. What we're gonna simply do is grab the 90 degree Bend on there very gently with a pair of pliers. We're just gonna work that back and forth. We're just gonna wobble that. And then start to pull as we wobble and you'll see you get a little bit more play, a little bit more play. And then we finally get it out of it. We don't want to break this because then you got to replace the sensor all the way up in it. Now there's a little brass loop that goes around the bottom of the sensor. You want to make sure you got that out of there because you don't want to lose that. That's what holds it. Now in this case it stayed in the sensor so we're good there. So now we can take the two bolts on top and bottom of the caliper. We're going to unbolt the caliper set it on top of the control arm and then we can get to the actual caliper mount which we need to move out of the way so we can get the rotor off. All right so this is a note - the bolts are a 13 millimeter head so I like to use a ratcheting box wrench but to keep that inner post from spinning so you can take the nut out that uses a 15 millimeter. You're gonna need a thin wrench. I use this style but you can if you have a an aftermarket wrench it's a little thinner than this, then the heavier Mac or the snap-on's you might be able to sneak that in there but the skinny wrenches work really well. This one in particular is a snap-on and it sneaks in there and it's able to take the torque pretty darn well. Alright so just as a note those bolts that we took out of the back of the caliper the 13 millimeter head you need a 15 millimeter opening wrench to hold these back posts. Once you got the caliper off you're good idea to check to make sure that the two posts are free that they spin they move in and out and then what we're going to now to do is take the caliper mount off and that uses a 15 millimeter 12-point. It's got a 12-point headed bolt on it. You're not going to be able to get a six-point on it. So I like using the proper size socket and then half inch drive so you get more leverage. You might have a hard time trying to get these off with a 3/8 drive. You want the extra length. You want the happiness. There we go. All right so with the caliper out of the way the next step is going to be we're going to get the rotor off. First thing we'll do is we'll spin this around until we can actually see the little neural adjuster. They'll be on opposite sides so like on the right side you'll find it on the bottom left side of vehicle you'll find it up top. You have a little opening here that you can use to get a screwdriver in and adjust it back and then normally there'll be a little plastic plug right here. In this case the plug fell out. You can just take a small straight blade screwdriver, a little penknife or something that just pops right out of there. So once you've adjusted it down and you'll be able to tell if obviously if you turn it the wrong direction it will reach a point where you can't turn the rotor so you're going to go in the opposite direction until it's fully seated and backed off and then we've got to take the locating bolt out of there. Now that's a number 45 Torx which you could probably try to remove with just a three-eighths breaker bar in a socket. But in this case I like using the little handheld impact because it knocks them loose. Especially when they've been in there for a long period of time. If you have access to one it's a tool that's been around for as long as I can remember. We used to use it a lot on motorcycles but comes in very handy on these as well. All right and now we take the rotor off. In this case you're gonna find it's locked right onto the hub so we just take that hammer. Right in the hub area. Isn't so sharp. And you'll hear when it breaks loose. All of a sudden the sound isn't so sharp. It becomes a dull thud. And we'll just work that out. So, we have the shoes exposed now we're down to the parking brake assembly. First thing we're going to do is we're gonna take these springs out now what this is is basically a fold over spring so that it's outward tension is going to hold up against the head of this pin. This pin just floats in there. So the easiest way is just to insert a screwdriver. You want to push in to compress that spring a little bit and then keep working it back and forth until that pin pops out. Okay so that's essentially what your spring looks like. They're a lot easier getting out than they are going in. So there's one, a little bit, do the same with this - push in and twist. We'll push those pins in a little bit. Get them out of the way. It's essentially the retainer pin and we'll probably want to replace that. If they're really badly corroded you're going to take alot of this out anyway. Might as well replace it, get some new springs in there. Then what you have at the bottom is the adjuster knurled this is what we turned to be able to compress the shoes to make room so we could get the rotor off. So now we'll just take the same screwdriver and spread the shoes. Okay so that's your, and that's your adjuster and you can see you got slots on both sides. That's where the shoe actually seats in. Then we remove the bottom spring. Just grab a pair of pliers. Pull the spring out of there. If you pull a spring out and the feels really crusty and crunches when you twist it back and forth it's a good chance, might as well replace that as well we have kits available where you can get all the retainer springs. So at this point what we're going to try to do then is we're going to spread the bottom of these shoes out wider than the hub and then turn them to the side and we should be able to remove that out of there. You'll see on the backside there's the end of your parking brake cable. This is the cable that's going to run into your electronic parking brake module which is up over the rear axle. Now this essentially has a little lock out on it so what we're going to do is we can push in and then we can flip that down so that we can sneak the cable out of there. Let's give it a little persuasion with a pair of pliers. And the spring hooks on that. So essentially there's your shoes. This is all gonna come off one assembly. So now we got the parking brakes, the shoes out of the way the parking brake assembly, we'll sneaked in here. We want to get our spreader out of the way. And again you can see springs kind of in rough shape. Yeah we definitely would want to put a new kit in this before we put it back together. So then we have the cable to deal with and the spring hooks into the backing plate here which we can remove with that. When we take the cable off this cable will just sneak right down through the middle. On the backside of this there is a large plastic nut that holds the cable in place. Normally you can take the same pair of pliers. They usually don't prefer to put a wrench on it because half the time the wrench just rounds it out. So in this case we're gonna just work it back and forth. This one's a little tight. The thing we're gonna do is we'll put a little penetrating oil on this. Let it sit for about 10 or 15 minutes and then we'll get back to it. All right. Just so you can get a visual on this here's the end of the parking brake cable and this is basically the retainer nut that you're going to take off. This is plastic so you want to be a little careful and work it slowly. You don't want to break it if you break the plastic now you got to replace the cable. So just quickly before we show you the installation of the backing plates. What you'll see here is you'll notice the old backing plate is gone. To remove it is relatively simple. There is one, two and three bolts that hold that backing plate to the knuckle assembly and they have a 30, a number 30 Torx drive head on them. The top one very easy to get at. The two you'll notice they're actually behind the hub but if you get an extended driver you can actually put it right through the one hole in the hub and it lines right up with a bolt so you can take the bolt out. And they come out relatively easy give it a little tap if they're a little snug and they'll come right out. And then essentially you're gonna cut the old backing plate. Being it's rotted most times you can just break them out of there but if they're still solid piece left you can take a torch, cut off saw, hacksaw, whatever you have available and you're going to basically just cut that in two pieces so you can take it out. Now I will show you how the replacement goes in. Again we have our three bolts in hand. These are the three that we took out to take the old one out. You'll notice that here's your entry area for your parking brake cable. That kind of gives you a sort of an orientation point. When this closed up behind there. just kind of wiggle around a little bit until you get some openings and that goes up in place there. And the short piece up top. And what we're gonna do is we're gonna put the three bolts back in and you wanna make sure you get this set up - and one tab goes over the top. Then what we're going to do is we're going to put the three bolts in but we're gonna leave them a little bit loose and then we'll give us just a little bit of movement so that the bolts for the two retainer tabs that we added to these backing plates we're gonna line up well enough so you can put a bolt through and tighten that down. So we're gonna get that installed. Okay, so, just as described - we ran the three bolts in, we've installed the two small retainer bolts that go through the tabs, we've got the the locking style nuts on the backside so they won't back off and as you can see you got a good solid setup here. Now don't be concerned you have a gap here and that was from the cutting tool that basically separates these two. This is not a waterproof system, neither is the original okay. There are no seals or gaskets on this. The rotor just simply rides around a little baffle and literally when you're driving in the rain it gets all wet anyway so don't be concerned with this. This isn't going to mean a thing. So now we just need to install the parking brake cable and the park brake system and we're ready to put the back brakes on and we're basically got the worst part of it over and done with which is the installation of the backing plate. Alright so the next step is gonna be, we're gonna install the spring. We've got the cable slid through and the plastic nut on the back installed on there. I don't really need to show you how to do that. The spring itself you can see the last coil on the spring is slightly raised which is going to make it a little easy to install. The area that you're gonna install this on when you slide this over has a slight lip right on the edge of this open area here and we're gonna do is just you can take your thumbnail or a small straight bite screwdriver and just slide that first ring over the top and then just essentially spin the spring and it'll thread itself on. You just run it in there until you got about three or four of those coils mounted on that and that's pretty good. And then from this point we're ready to put the shoes on. What I wanted to do is just give you an idea orientation of the shoes when you go to install them. In the case of the lefthand side of course the cable comes in the bottom. The cable gets hooked to this arm. Essentially all it does is that, the end of the cable is inserted through here. There's a little sliding notch on the end there so that once you install the cable the end of that knob at the end of the cable itself passes through the knotch, pull it and it pulls this up and it's going to lock it in place and then of course you have that one little segment of that spring we just installed. It's going to loop around that hold that in place. So the arm goes on the backside of the shoe. Your larger spring is going to run across the top. Your adjustment bolt right there is going to face you and then for the orientation of the crossbar because you have a round hub here in the center, this hump in the crossbar obviously is going to face up and you have a double notch on one side. This will be on the side of the arm. So that this basically slides in like so and then this side with the spring sits in this notch right here. And that we're gonna do once we get the shoes over the hub, but I wanted to give you an idea of how you're gonna preassemble this before you go to put it together. Normally what you'll do at this point is we'll have the spring out. We're gonna hook the this shoe to the cable, then we hit the spring and then the other shoe we just take the whole thing and back right around the hub and install it. All right so just quickly before I go any further we've got the arm, the parking brake arm in place, I wanted to show you the orientation of the spring that basically comes up from underneath and you'll see that it makes a little 90-degree bend on the end and that sits right in a little notch that's cut in that retainer fork right behind the end of the cable. So just so you get an idea how that's supposed to sit when you're done. Alright so I've got the shoe in place. Basically all we did was just take the two shoes and spread them and put them right up over the, over the hub so and again look at your spring orientation. You see the crossbar or the cross piece here on the spring is down underneath this block. You don't want it rubbing up against the block. That's proper way for it to sit. So what I'm going to do now is I'm just going to sit this one shoe - I'm going to put the pin through and put the spring in and I would probably suggest as if this is your first time doing this wear safety glasses because these do have a tendency to pop off several times until you sort of get the knack on how to install them. So the pin goes in through the backing plate, goes through this slotted hole right here. There we go. All right. So this is the fun part. This is actually where a third pair of hands we definitely come in handy because you can't really compress the spring with your hands. It's just too much tension there. Alright at this point now what we've got there you got your crossbar. Now remember their orientation - the loop is basically going to be in conjunction with the hump of the hub. You want to probably do this with safety glasses. Generally I don't have a problem with these springs but now and then one may pop off and this is as I said. So let's do it this way. We're gonna slide this in here first. So that locks in. Let's put the spring back on there. And we need to lift that crossbar so it falls into that slot in the shoe. Okay here I heard everything snap into place and we're gonna line up with that hole in the back for the lockdown pin. Now the spring wants to pull the shoe away from the backing plate so we'll just install a, put a big screwdriver right here. Lock it, lock it it. That will sort of hold that from springing out while we're getting the rest of our parts. We're going to slide our pin in and that's going to go through this slotted hole right here. You want to set this up so that we've got this shoe as tight as possible up against the backing plate. There we go. Get the spring in underneath. You get some room and what you do is you put your fingers in the back and you're going to lift that, that pin so then as we compress the spring drop the pin in there to hold that and seat the head of the pin in the spring. Okay so now we got a crossbar in, we got our spring in place, now we're gonna do now at this point is install the bottom spring and the adjuster. Alright I showed you how to lock the springs in. We got the top spring in, the two clips. What we need to do now is we're going to spread the bottom. We're gonna install the small spring and the adjuster. Now just to give you a breakdown you've got one barrel on one side has the notch that's going to sit into the tab at the bottom of the shoe. The other side has the same thing. But I should be able to turn this piece here in here. So obviously this one is locked up so I'm gonna have a hard time adjusting it. So we're gonna soak this, we're going to clean it up, soak it down with penetrating oil. If yours is damaged or locked up to the point you can't turn it, again these parts are also available separately from the kit but they are available. So we're gonna free this up first before we install it. Alright so we're going to install the lower spring and see the two holes on each side on the bottom. Hold that up in there. Put this screwdriver, small pry bar, whatever you want to use, and we're gonna go up against the bottom of the shoe and we'll spread that out some so that we can install the adjuster and it doesn't matter which side you put this adjuster on. So you want to get that slot up in there, and then there and then we'll just turn this until it lines up and drops in. Just to double check. Okay and we're in. Just wanted before I put the rotor back on I want to show you a finished product of how the how these parking brake shoes should look when they're done. With your spring in place it's not over the front of this block its underneath. Crossbar. Spring is in place. The pins and then of course your adjuster and your retainer spring on the bottom. So adjusters should be all the way in so that the shoes are close together. I've got the shoes fairly well centered so now at this point we can put the rotor, on the retainer bolt and then do the adjustment on the parking brake. All right so we're gonna spin the rotor around so that your inspection hole lines up with the adjusting knob that we installed earlier, sits at the bottom of the shoes on this, and we're gonna turn this until it locks the rotor right up. Until we can't turn it and this just spins and you'll feel it start to tension up and you want to really give it, you really want to lock it in there. Take the same screwdriver and then we're gonna put it here. You can see we can't turn the wheel. So then we're now going to go back - now you can do this one of two ways. You can take a small little bit of chalk or some little paint or whatever and you can mark that knurl, that knob that we're spinning, and you're gonna go one full turn or what we'll do is we back it down 8th clicks. One. two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Which is the equivalent of one full turn. So we should be able to spin the rotor. You're gonna hear a very slight drag and then the other step to this is we're gonna line up with that little adjustment bolt that we talked about earlier. We can see that right in there and it's going to be a number five allen head. We're gonna install. We're gonna loosen that nut a little bit and they tell you just basically just tap on the rotor - it centers everything up. We'll lock it back down and then our adjustment will be done. So we've done our adjustment and then last but not least don't forget your little inspection plug. That just keeps the excess and like I said earlier this is not a waterproof system. This little plug isn't gonna keep all the water and dirt out but it is there just to keep out major debris. So now we have our shoes installed, the rotor is on. Now is just a matter of get our brakes back together and we're ready to go. All right so at this point we're gonna put the brakes on and you may or may not be replacing your brakes when you take it apart so what we're gonna do is we're actually going to replace the rear brakes on this while we have this going. So first thing you want to do before you put your caliper mount back on make sure that the pins that you support the caliper bolt to you want to make sure those are nice and free and that they move in and out. The pads do come with the zinc sliders so we've got those popped in place. Now the pads I'll do a quick explanation. You're going to find that two pads have this paper backing, two pads do not. Normally we've always found that this one which has sort of an adhesive on it is going to be on the outside resting up against the two flat areas of the caliper. So just so you know when you pull it apart you know which pad to put. So without the adhesive on the inside, with the adhesive pad you're gonna peel that off before you install the caliper itself and that one gets run on the outside. So I'm just going to set this down in, run the two bolts in the back. Alright and last but not least we have the caliper itself. Now remember when we first pulled it out we had completely collapsed the piston so now we should be able to just install this over the the new pads and in the course of the doing the rather repairs and whatnot it may work its way out just a little bit so you can always squeeze that back in with a large pair of pliers. So here we have the outer pad with the paper removed so we have the sticky adhesive and it's not even really a strong adhesive and they just put it there to try to help eliminate squealing. So we'll slide our caliper over. We'll have to push our back pins in. I usually start with the top one because that's the easiest to get at and once you get that started it'll sort of line you up for the bottom one. And there'll be a little spring tension on. Pop that in. And you may need to wiggle it around a little bit to get the bolt seated in the threads. Give a few turns. Okay we're in place so all we need now is just our two wrenches and tighten those two bolts up. Alright so you've seen how to assemble the backing plates the parking brakes we've done the parking brake adjustment. We've got our pads in place, calipers back in place. All we need at this point is we put our wheel back on, take the vehicle for a drive. We'll get the brakes worn in just a little bit. But for the most part that's how you're gonna do an assembly and replace those rotted old backing plates. So when you're ready to do so just contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 And thanks for watching.
For the Winter ski season, have you been looking for a Ski and Roof Rack solution for Your Range Rover Full Size L322? We have what you are in search of by Thule Racks! We include everything you need to install this Thule Ski Rack Kit : the Thule Traverse Roof Rack Fitting Kit; the Thule Traverse Foot Pack; the Thule - Ski Rack Carrier - Fixed - 6-Pair Capacity; and Thule - Load Bars - 58" (Pair). Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install this Thule Ski and Roof Rack on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2009 (L322). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210.
hi I'm Doug your tech support rep here at Atlantic British and in this video we're going to touch base on the ski and assembly for our full-size L 322 missile 50 years from O 3 all the way up 209 and what it is is a combination of the crossbar setup and the roof rack adapters for the skis made by thule and we actually carry it under a complete kit it gives you everything that you need under the part number th810 to show you a little easier way to install it it's a quick fit system that can be taken off easily when it's done with it even comes with labels so that when you go to reinstall it everything shows you exactly where you need to be and everything's already pre-measured so let's show you how to go about it alright so just so if you if you're looking into the instructions of reading through them you're going to notice our procedure varies a little bit I found some ways that I felt was a little bit easier and right off the bat you have these basically these pads that are to be installed on the bottom of the feet for both sides of the crossbar and you'll see how that matches the pattern and I found it would seem to be easier if you work on the front essentially there's just a little lip all the way around this rubber pad that grabs around the base of the foot so you want to push in so that you actually feel it roll over the edge and click it you just work your way all the way around and keep doing that and when you look at it you'll see or should see basically a nice clean line between the rubber and the foot that you attached it to so you know it's nice and flat and then we'll do the same to the other side so next is going to be installing the feet onto the crossbar now you notice the crossbars rectangular not square so to install the foot on there there is a lever in the back that we're gonna use and it will release and allow that to move around some that well essentially just slide right over the top of this and it takes a little fussing around because the end of the rubber and the coating that they have on a crossbar sticks up a little bit and we'll just slide that on and leave a couple inches on each end because that's gonna get you fairly close to where you need to be when you mount it on the roof we'll slide this on now in the instructions they give you specific measurements from the inside and actually you should measure cross from edge to edge and even then I found to be a little bit off so what we essentially are going to do is we're going to set this up on the roof set our distance on our pads and lock them down immediately and then from there we can install the grips that will lock this on to the top of the top of the roof alright so by leaving a couple inches old hanging over on each end we came actually very close once we set it up on the roof we're just gonna sort of Center the bar we'll go back and forth a couple times if you need to slide this up and down to even it up essentially though what you should have ideally is on both sides this little curl to the bottom of the rubber pad we installed should just conform right with the body of the vehicle so we know we got a nice firm footing so once you've done that reach in the back and you have your lever that you pulled up and you're gonna click that down that's gonna lock the foot to the crossbar do the same to the other side all right and now that we have the levers lock down we're gonna fall up the face plate in the front and then you'll see here this is what that attaching leg that's gonna wrap around the edge of the door here and then we're gonna lock that down now they tell you in the instructions to back this off until you're almost to the point where it stops turning which will be full loosening well you really don't need to go that far now I'm going to show you two on this little tool on this tool you have on the green part aligned through the center on the gray part you have a little indicator not just above that in the instructions and they tell you how to do this when we go to tighten everything down you're gonna turn this until this green arrow actually turns to the point that that center line lines up with the indicator on the gray section essentially a torque inch so this is going to tell you exactly how much to tighten that down so what we'll do now is we back this off a little bit we're gonna raise that up and sneak this up inside clip that around the body and you may need to click on this case we're going to open the door so that we get that seated when we close the door it's gonna hold that in place so we had that now being we're just doing the one side and when you start you're just going to turn this until it just starts to give you some resistance and that will give us some play and now you get two of these little tools with this kit so I've got the second one in my pocket now I'm gonna go to the other side and I'm going to tighten that down alright so we'll do the same to this we're gonna back this off now you've probably noted or you might even be thinking where am I going to put the crossbar what I've done is you can see it's sort of lines up in centers with the top of the little vent window on the back of the rear door and then you'll see the front which is already mounted just ahead of the upright of the front door so this way that eliminates all that measuring and why not so remember on the other side we've got locked now so now we can slide this in let's make sure we got a nice even grip all the way around with the pads sitting just where it needs to be on the body we walk down the back and then we can lift up slide that in and again open up the door we just need to back that off a little bit more and close the door to hold it and now this side because we've got the other side snug we can torque this one end and then we're going to go back around to the other side to finish it off so I'll turn this you can see how the green part actually sweeps over a little bit and you got an indicator on both sides so it shouldn't matter at what point you can always see it and you'll feel it get pretty tight and just about there we're lined up so we'll pull that out and then we'll go around to the other side do the exact same thing and then essentially at that point our crossbars are set up so now we can put on our ski holders so now we're ready for the ski holders now you'll see you've got a whole bunch of different adapters on this the reason for that is that these can be purchased separately and they can be used with some of the other styles that Thule makes as far as the crossbars like the AeroBlade and the other models that they're currently making so this way if you already have Thule crossbars for another accessory or whatnot these can be adapted to work with those so because we're working with the rectangular bar the square bar we're going to be installing these four adapters there's two that goes on to each cross piece and this is how they're going to mount on there now to install them you have to actually remove or lift off this bottom rubber piece all right now there is a high area and a low area and I recommend you try to peel this off of the high area because the lower side actually has a deeper groove in it that holds it in place instructions tell you to take it right off but you really don't need to you can get your fingers underneath there and I found if you spray a little dry silicone spray on there this all becomes a lot easier to do now you see once I left it and the Reese for that was it exposes the holes that you're going to need to mount these adapters and that is essentially just going to go like that with the stud up and then you have these lock tabs and this has a nut on the end that swivels so we'll swivel that in place and we want to screw that right on and lock it just basically Snug it tighten it right down and again because you because you have a metal nut in a plastic housing go crazy with the torque so your spin this thing until it's good and snug you want to try to keep this foot that you're attaching to the cross piece and it's perpendicular 90 degrees as possible if you're a little off don't worry about it it'll work just fine so we're gonna spin that in so we feel it get snug try to go at least a full turn then this way that will lead down there and then we'll do the same and you can essentially mount you'll see these are the screws that you're going to turn that tighten this strap that grabs around the bar and you can face them to the front of the back wherever it's easiest for you to get at it now it's a little tighter back here but you can actually hold the crossbar up pull the rubber back and then the same thing will start this nut and run it down till we tighten it okay so now we have the bases in now I found that with the silicone you can pop this piece right back in it pops in there real nice and then the silicone will eventually dry or you can simply wipe it when you're done but there you go it pops right in so now your piece is assembled now I want to touch base on one thing and they'll show you in the instructions when you wrap this strap around in place there's a keyway right here and as you'll see that it's an open key way now the reason for this is once you have these mounted you can install the key way on this which is set up just like this you're going to get four tumblers they're all keyed alike same numbers and they simply install you'll turn it until it pops in all right so to install first off like I said the knobs that we tighten on the feet for this ski mount we want to make sure we have access to it and then of course your release so you get your skis in and out you obviously want on the outside of the vehicle so just set that there that'll pop up and the reason I did it this way is it's a lot easier for me to reach it right here and then we can just click this as well there now we just a matter of making sure that we got a nice flat made here and then we'll turn these gray knobs in until we're good and tight just something I want to make note of in this kit you get a little sticker that notes front left front right right rear left rear and this is for installing on the rack after you've done all your measuring and you put your thing on there you actually have a little spot right there and you can put the location on and the reason for that is because you have this all measured out that once you if you do decide for the to install the key you still have the tool to remove these just will pop off you can just back off on the adjustments they come off when you go to use it the next time you just think so you already know what locations it goes into you lock it down you're done you don't have to go through the whole re-installation process so just something I wanted to make note of all right so last but not least you've got you can see you still have a key insert on this and you can use the same keys that we have for the lowers there's a little plug right here you can pop out and insert the key way in there so you can set this all up as locking all I'm based on one key number so the other aspect is you're gonna set your push that lift to put your key in your ski in place of course obviously we have to put another one the other one on the back bar will assemble that and then lay your skis in and then that'll just click in and hold them in place now that's it this way you got a good double lock on here and it's gonna hold them good and firm and again you can put the key way in there and then also in your kit for the crossbars you'll have a little plastic caps you're gonna cert them on both ends and that's going to add to a little bit of more weather proofing so that's basically all it is to it this is a good setup for your skis it's good it's a nice tight fit it is designed to fit your L 322 right from 2003 all the way up to 2009. alright so when you're ready to do so you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 or you can click on this link and you can order this part of dent directly online or if you like our video we'd like to see more you can go to our YouTube channel subscribe to that so we thank you for watching and we're over on.
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