wiper videos
Watch our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a 1997 Defender 90. Using our Wiper Blade Kit # DKC100980K which includes two front wiper blades, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit #: DKC100980K Install Wiper Blades On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to cover wiper blade replacement on a Defender 90. This is based on the maintenance kit that we've come up with for Defender 90. If you've checked with our earlier video you'll find how to use these to know when to change wiper blades and any other maintenance service on your vehicle. Essentially in the kit for the Defender 90, this wiper blade kit is DKC100980K. Should be done about every 15,000 miles. And when you order that kit you'll be receiving both front wiper blades for the Defender 90. And later in this video we'll show you how to mount them on your vehicle. So now we're going to show you how to change the wiper blades. We've pulled our kit. We have our 2 items. And what I like to do normally is always put protection over the paint, even if you're working over it and you feel you're not going to do any damage, it's always best to have some protection down. Now this is one of our Atlantic British fender covers. Nice soft foam, a little on the sticky side it won't fall off on you. It's always good to have that just in case you drop something. Now on the driver side wiper the arm comes out, straight out and gives you easy access from the side. And all you're going to do is turn the wiper blade 90 degrees to the arm. And when you run your finger on the back you'll feel a small button. You push that button and that's going to unlock the blade from the arm. Slide back. Turn forward. And you'll unlatch it. And then simply slip it off. Now the other thing to keep in mind is you want to hold onto this arm. Should this get away from you, this is spring loaded, and it's going to slap right against the windshield. So keep your hand on there at all times. By this time you would have had the new blade out. And the new blade is going to go back on exactly like you took the old one off. 90 degrees. Until you get past the adapter to get it on there. Slip it over. Back out. Listen for the click. Nowyou're good. Turn the blade flat. Again, keep your hand behind there. Set it back in place. And you're going to change the passenger side exactly the same way. And again, as a reminder, this kit is also listed on our Maintenance and Service academy program. It's kit number DKC100980K You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to hook you up with this. You can reach us at 1-800-533-2210.
How to remove old wipers and install new ones on a Land Rover Discovery Series 2. Watch Jim as he explains how to change out your wiper blades on a Land Rover Discovery Series 2.
Watch our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using wiper blade kit # 7501F , which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using wiper blade kit # 7503TSKA , which includes two front wiper blades, two front wiper retainers and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug perform a wiper blade replacement on a Discovery I, 1994 - 1999. Using our wiper blade kit # 7503 , which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Make replacing the wipers on your LR3 or Range Rover Sport easier. Watch Jim as he explains how to change out your wiper blades, both taking off the old ones and installing the new ones. The same process works for both the LR3 and the Range Rover Sport. Recommended service every 15,000 miles.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a front & rear wiper blade replacement for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using wiper blade kit # 7507, which includes two front wiper blades and 1 rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. This kit and same process and approach can be used for all the vehicles listed.
Kit #: 7507 Installing Wiper Blades on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to introduce you to the windshield wiper kit that we have available for the LR3 as part of our repair and maintenance academy. And you'll find that right from Land Rover's recommended services. Now this is a sheet that you can download and print right from our website, that the wipers are recommended every 15,000 miles. If you're in an area with harsh weather or whatnot it may want to be done a little more often. And the kit number which is 7507 is going to include the 2 front wiper blades. These are the silicon based, with the proper attachment already built on them. And then the often neglected rear window wiper. Unfortunately I see a lot of these come in with literally the wiper completely worn out all the way down to the rubber base. A lot of people kind of neglect this rear wiper, but it does come in very handy when you want to see what's going on behind you. What we're going to do now is show you how to install these on your LR3 so you can see clearly where you're going. So unless you have nice free movement like this, replace the arm. Now that's pretty much it for wiper blades. So when you're ready to change them over on your LR3 you can just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a wiper blade replacement on a LR2 2008-On. Using wiper blade kit # 7503LR2 , which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit #: 7503LR2 Install Wiper Blade Kit on LR2 / Freelander 2 2008 - On, 6-cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And as part of our repair and maintenance academy we wanted to show you the windshield wiper kit for the LR2. This will fit the 2008 on LR2, or Freelander 2 as it's known in the rest of the world. And this kit, based on our maintenance sheet that you can copy and download off your computer. This is based on the recommended service intervals from Land Rover. And every 15,000 miles you should change the wiper blades on this vehicle. Now if you live in a dusty area or in an area other than mild climate, you want to change these more often. And again this is a maintenance item that alot of people overlook, but realize that they need them come the first big snow or bad rain that they drive through. So it's best to beat that and do your maintenance when it's scheduled. Now what you will get in the kit is the 2 front wiper blades. And there is a small difference between the right and the left. You'll notice that the left hand side is a longer wiper blade than the right, and your rear blade. Now in a minute we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Here's your wiper blade kit. We're going to start with the driver side wiper. Now you can take the arm, which is on a pivot, and bring it back to the point where it is a little easier to get at. On this blade, and we'll show you on the new one, you have 2 squeeze tabs. And these are going to depress to remove the blade from the arm. And it's just a matter of depressing those two, lifting away from the arm and then up and out. Just that easy. Now the new blades come with a protective sheath on them, to keep them from any damage during shipping or during storage, so make sure you remove that sheath. You're going to lock this small curve tab into the slot of the blade, swing down, squeeze the 2 tabs again. And you're on. And that's our driver side. Now again, notice, fender cover on the hood. This way you can lay your wipers down in front of you. You're not going to do any damage to the paint. Now passenger side you are going to do similar to the driver side. Simply squeeze the tabs, we're going to pull away, unhook, take our new blade, slide your protective edge off, hook into slot, squeeze the tabs. You want to make sure that - there you go - when we hear that click we know we're in. And there's your front blades. Now we'll go around and show you the back because the back is done a little bit differently. Now the back is done a little bit differently, it's actually more the traditional hook design. Now first thing you do before you decide to change your rear wiper, especially ifyou're noticing that the wiper blade really isn't cleaning the back window very much. For some reason, because of where they are located, rear wiper arms have a tendency to get more corrosion build up in them and what not than the fronts. You'll notice here is a perfect example. I can pull this away and it stays in its position. This should pop right back on the window, and it should hold some tension. This pretty much sets wherever I put it. If your wiper arm does that, you need a new arm. We tried cleaning them up with penetrating oil and what not which is just a temporary fix and it will freeze right up - you need to replace the wiper arm as well as the blade. In the case of the blade, there's a small tab right here. Right there. Squeeze in, and that's going to release the lock. Take your wiper blade and push towards the door until you unhook. Now you'll notice you have an insert in the wiper. On one side it's smooth. On the other side has a small lifted tab. That small lifted tab needs to be on the bottom so that it locks into the slot on the wiper arm. So you're going to line that up. Simply slide that in place. You can hear a nice solid click when it's in. You know your tab is in. Push your wiper back in place. And your done. Now you've replaced the wiper blades on your LR2. And again, this is a very important service. This could become a safety item with worn out wiper blades. So when you're ready to change them over on your LR2, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a front & rear wiper blade replacement for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using wiper blade kit # 7503D2SKA , which includes two front wiper blades, 2 retainers for the front wipers and 1 rear wiper blade, it is recommended that they be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit # 7503D2SKA Wiper Blade Replacement on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to show you the front and rear wiper replacement kit for 1999 to 2002 Discovery 2 as part of our repair and maintenance academy. Now this is a service that is recommended, even by Land Rover, every 15,000 miles. If you live in an area with extreme climates you may want to do it sooner. Having clean wiper blades, and a clean windshield, can make a huge difference in your travelling. Now what will be included with the kit are the 2 front wiper blades. And you'll notice that both blades are the same length. The adapter clips that you'll need for the special set up that they put on the Discovery's with the lock clip. And then the rear wiper blade which is simply just a pop in design. What we'll do is we'll show you how to install these wipers so you can get maximum visibility out of your vehicle at all times. You'll hear a pop and your blades on. And that's it. You changed your windshield wiper blades and made life a lot safer on the road when it rains or snows. When you're ready to change them over call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a front & rear wiper blade replacement for a 1995-2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS or Bosch engine. Using wiper blade kit # 7501 , which includes two front wiper blades and 1 rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit #: 7501 Replacing the Front/Rear Wiper Blades on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications OR 1999-2002, 8-Cylinder BOSCH Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to introduce you to the windshield wiper kit that we make available in our repair and maintenance academy program for your 1999 to 2002 P38 Full Size Range Rover. Now the kit will include the rear and the two front wipers. The front wipers will have different adapters for different model vehicles. On the P38 you'll be using the adapter that looks like so. You have a lock pin, or an attachment pin, on the front wiper. And you're just going to drop that in. Snap that in place. And in a minute we're going to show you how to mount that on your vehicle. Now just as a note, the wiper blade kit, which you can pull up on this downloadable copy off of our website, is kit 7501. And you'll see it includes the 2 front blades and a rear blade. This is recommended every 15,000 miles. This is something that is generally neglected until you really need them. How many of you have turned on your wipers on a rainy day and found out how bad they really were. Change them every 15,000 miles and you shouldn't have that problem. Now we're going to show you how to mount these on your vehicle. So when you're ready for your wipers just give a call to one of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
How to replace the rear wiper blade on a Land Rover Discovery Series 2, 1999 - 2004 model vehicle. Watch Jim as he reviews the steps necessary to install a new rear wiper blade on a Discovery II.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to replace the headlamp wiper blade, or if necessary, the entire headlamp wiper arm on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Applicable Part #s DKB000240G (wiper arm RH), DKB000250G (wiper arm LH) and DKC000070G (wiper blade only). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install Wiper Blades on a LR2 2008-On. It is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles and this video will help you install the front right and front left blades with the aftermarket design. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Kit # 7503LR2 Install Front Wiper Blades (with Alternate Wiper Blade Fixture Design) On LR2 / Freelander 2 2008 - On, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And we're going to do this little video because we've been getting some word back - some of the aftermarket wiper blades for the LR2 are coming with a completely different design on them than the original equipment. They do fit, and they lock on good and tight, but the way apply is totally different and I know it has confused some people. So, we're just going to do this short little video to show you how to do the current aftermarket blades that we carry. There's the Lucas for the driver's side. And then the AllMakes for the passenger side. Now the original equipment design, which we have a video on, is very simple and easy. It's just 2 squeeze tabs in the back. You squeeze those. You lift away and you pull away. You'll see this little angled tab on there. Now on the clear vision Lucas, you can see that there is a huge difference in the application itself and how it's mounted on the wiper arm. Again, it does mount, and as you can see this is actually a much heftier design. And it's a simple slide on. You simply put this in line so that the tab grabs underneath this outer area and just simply slide it down the rail, and you're going to pull down until you hear that click. And should you want to take it back off, there's a button right here and you push this button down. And then that releases the tab, in which case then you can lift these off. And these are actually on pretty tight. These are good and solid. So you can see that's not going to come off. On the other side, we have a slightly different design, so we're going to go to the passenger side and show you how to put those on. Ok. So, on passenger side original equipment same application, squeeze the tabs, pull away, lift and out. Then on the replacement, it's going to be just the opposite. These little notched arms on the back of the wiper arm are going to drop down into slots that are built into the bottom of the blade. Now with these, you're going to have to push up a little hard, and then you're going to pull towards yourself until this front shoulder of the arm clears this raised area of the blade. Pull forward, sit that in. Then there's 2 little grab tabs right there that are going to grab that curved notch or tab that's on the front of the arm. You lock that in good and solid. And that's how you're going to install that blade. Now, this is just simply an instructional. We have had calls on this. They are considerably different than the original design. But they actually lock in very well and work very well. So, when you're ready to change the blades over, or if you've all ready received a set of these blades, this video's going to help you greatly.
How to fit Discovery I wiper blade arms on a Discovery II vehicle. Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to install the wiper blades from a Discovery Series I on a Discovery Series II. By switching wiper blade arms, owners will have an easier time replacing their wiper blades in the future.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the rear wiper arm replacement for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using wiper arm part # DKB500310PMD , which includes new spray hose and finishing cover, it is recommended that the wiper arm be replaced when corrosion develops on the pivot and will no longer hold tension of blade against rear window. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install mud flaps on a Land Rover LR4 2011-2012. Using Mud Flaps Part # VPLAP0017G , you will find the addition of the rear mud flaps helpful in diminishing road spray and grime on the rear window. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part#: VPLAP0017G Installing Rear Mud Flaps On LR4Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about rear mud flaps for the LR4s. The reason being is we're hearing more and more from LR4 owners that without the mud flaps, and especially in the wintertime, you get a lot of road salt and debris and whatnot kicks up from under the vehicle and it coats the rear window to the point where even the rear wiper won't clean it completely off. So we found with the installation of rear mud flaps it seems to knock that down quite a bit. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install mud flaps. It's very easy. And by doing so you can reduce a lot of that build up on the back window. So now what we're going to do before we install the kit, just give you an idea of what you get when you order your rear flaps. And essentially you get pre molded, factory flaps. These are designed to meet the contours of the body of the vehicle. The hardware you need to install. And of course instructions which you're going to find the first thing is when you read the instructions is the only tool you need to replace these is a Phillips screw driver. This is going to be a very easy job. We have this up on the lift, but you can sort of do the same just by starting your vehicle, putting it up on access, your high mode, your off road more for your air suspension which will give you plenty clearance and you can get a screw driver in there to change these over. So let's begin. We'll show you how to get them in. All right, so, you have one screw here directly on the bottom. And one screw right there. We're going to just simply take those two off. And then we have to get up underneath. We're going to show you there is one area where one of those blue plastic, I guess you could call it a nut, is going to get popped in. And from that point then you can just attach your bracket. So let's get this apart. All right, so just to give you an idea of where we're working next, you have the back muffler right here. Behind that we have the heat shield. What we're going to do is show you then we're going to move the heat shield back a little bit, show you and basically expose this square opening right here, which is where we're going to pop that little blue nut in place. One thing so we'll mention. The two small brackets that come with this kit are actually labelled left and right. And it makes a difference on how they go on. And these essentially will end up being attached to where we just put that blue nut on the part of the frame behind the heat shield. So the next step is we're going to take another one of these blue nuts. Going to pop that on there. Grab a screw. And essentially attach this now to that area and that will put this blue nut on the center right here for this third hole. So it's a little bit of a tight fit but you're going to hold that bracket so that it runs up against the back side of this inner arch. You can just fit a screw driver in there and we're just going to run that screw in and lock it down. All right so this is what your bracket is going to look like installed. Now what I'll probably suggest is back that screw off about half a turn and just enough to make this loose. Because you may not be lined up exactly in the hole right here on the facing. So what we're going to do is essentially leave that a little bit loose so we can maneuver it and then we'll put the fender flap on and once that's on we can come back, lock that down and push the heat shield back in place. Okay, so, now we're just simply going to take our mud flap, set it up in place there. And you'll probably put the top screw in place first. What we're going to do is we're going to reuse the two screws that we took out initially and put them back in the same areas that they came from. One up top. And one down below. And we're going to leave them loose. So that we can line up that center screw. Those two are in. And now we go to our last but not least. If you're doing this with the tire on this one screw, you may want to grab a little stubby screw driver so you can get in here. And run that in. All right, so here's our mud flap installed. Like I said we're just reusing the top screw, bottom screw and then just the one add on bracket with the center screw. Easy install. And we'll just do the same to the other side. And really within a short period of time we have mud flaps. Which will actually as I said earlier, greatly reduce the amount of dirt build up on your back windows on your LR4. So, when youre ready to put back mud flaps on your LR4, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order them online. And if you like our videos, and you find them helpful, you can also go to our YouTube site and subscribe to that, and end up getting more helpful videos to help you maintain your Land Rover. So thanks we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Is the exterior moulding or cowl that sits just under the windshield of your D2 cracking and distorting? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates the removal and replacement of the Center Air Intake Moulding (part # JAK000010PMAG ) on our Discovery Series II. This part is also referred to as the Windshield Cowl or Windshield Finisher. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part #: JAK000010PMAG Center Air Intake Moulding Replacement On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative hear at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to replace the lower intake cowl for the windshield on your Discovery 2. This is part number JAK000010PMAG. Yeah, it's a bit of a long number. But this is the replacement for the bottom cowl. And it actually includes the filter, which this is actually your cabin filter, in essence. This is what filters your air before it goes into your climate control system. You'll also notice you got four large holes where as you're only going to have 2 openings for the windshield wipers. And that's because this is actually designed after the original equipment to be able to be used on both the right hand or left drive vehicle. And then there are plugs that we're going to take out of the old one that will be installed on this so that it looks just like the original design. Now one thing I do want to mention. Well first off, these are also, there are several different names for these. Some call them a windshield cowl, windshield finisher. We refer to it on our website as a center air intake moulding. So in case you don't remember the number, you haven't written it down, you can use that to look it up on the website. Now as a note, just quickly before we begin installation, when these things come through, sometimes from the delivery, this seal can be pulled back a little bit and there's a little groove in the seal and it sits over a lip right on the edge of the cowl. This is what seats against the windshield. So you just want to check to make sure that this is on and fully seated all the way down its length. It will make a big difference on how it looks when you put it all together. Okay, so what we're going to do now is we're going to show you the installation process. It's not that bad to do. Just need a few tools to do it. And let's get started. First thing we're going to do is we're going to pop the hood on this. The way these are designed, this cowl is very tough to get out without moving the hood out of the way. And it's not all that bad to do this. It's not a lot of un-bolting. What you're going to do is set your hood up. And all you've got is 4 bolts that hold the hood to the hinges. 2 on each side. We're going to take these bolts out and then actually lower the hood and slide it forward, only about 3 or 4 inches. That's all we need. And that will give us enough room for the cowl and still prevent you from having to take the hood all the way off the vehicle.They will spin fairly easy. Just get them snug. Double check and verify. Just to make sure you're still lined up. And once you get them snug, and the hoods not going anywhere, tighten them up from that point. And again, they don't have to be real tight. Bring them in until you feel the bolt seat and then about a quarter of a turn. And we're there. We're just going to do the same to the other side. Once we've done that we know that the hood is going to close exactly like it did before we took it apart. So now you see our hood is on. Our lines are straight. She's on exactly the way it was. Our cowl is in place. Our wipers are there. You want to double check just to make sure the wipers are fully operational. And they park where they're supposed to. And then we're good. Your cowl is in. The other thing I'll mention too is in the process of doing that, if you see you've got problems with these corner finishers, or they look like they could use replacing, this would be a good time to do that. We do offer these also on our website. And we have a video on how to install these as well. So, that would set you up for all the way around the windshield. So, when you're ready to replace your lower intake moulding, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in replacing the old, warn “RANGE ROVER” front and rear decals on a Range Rover Sport 2014. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today we're working on a 2014 Range Rover Sport that's owned here by Atlantic British. We're actually going to be replacing the front decals. The extruded decals from the hood and from the trunk lid. As you can see they are, they don't actually delaminate, they actually lose their color. They are bonded on by a double-sided sticky tape. I have, everybody has their own kind of removal practices for these in the auto industry. Mine is with a heat gun gently heating up the letters as you go. I already removed one, the letter R from here. It does tend to leave a bit of glue on there so afterwards I use a bit of goo gone, or just gently rub it with a bit of warm water or even your thumb and the glue does come off. After removing all the decals I'm gonna wipe it down and make sure it's nice and clean, probably even wax, sorry, polish the front of the hood area so we get a nice clean surface to bond on the new decals to the body of the vehicle. We have here, this is my own tool, blue in color. Once I've heated I will gently push underneath, you can actually see the 'e' is actually almost loose at this point. When it's heated up it'll just peel right off with the dull plastic edge of the spatula tool. We sell the tool kit here at Atlantic British. Comes in different sizes. It is for removing mouldings and fasteners. This one here is exactly the same as what I have. These are great for removing door panels. Another one here - this is good to work against glass windows and generally a good hook tool. These are the decals were putting on the vehicle. This one, this set is for the front, this set is for the rear. Don't ask me why, they look just the same to me but I'm sure there's a reason. So I'm going to start by heating up the hood. You can use a hairdryer if you need to. It's probably less invasive, does the same job. It's always good to do it on a hot day. Unfortunately we don't have a hot day here in New England. We've got snow on the ground, but a nice warm warehouse. So gentle heat, not too close to the car. Just enough to warm up the body. I like to keep the heat gun moving and not direct the heat in one place too long so not to burn the paint or any, cause any other damage. I'm actually gonna try and push it off now. Ah, there it's coming, there it goes. Just carry on the whole procedure for the same. As you can see it leaves a gluey residue behind but not the end of the world. It can be removed quite easily. You see the paint starting to bubble you're using too much heat. Keep a safe distance. I keep checking it with my hand just to make sure. It doesn't get any cleaner than that. Okay so as you can see we've got the front of the hood look clean. I polished it once I got the glue off with a medium coarse polish. I felt it was probably just a little aggressive so I went over it with that sheer color sensitive to green polish, made by Turtle Wax, and that actually brought the color back somewhat in line with the rest of the car and got rid of the swirls. So now we're gonna try and apply the decal, the RANGE to the front of the vehicle. There is a piece of paper you pull off the back. I actually pulled it off of this piece. You pull it off and then hopefully we can line it up. Oh it's on now. And it does have a wave to it. It's meant to. They come on the card. As you can see the ROVER sways up a bit at the end to take the body line of the car. I think looks alright. I'm quite happy with that. So I'm quite happy without hold the Range Rover emblem came out on the vehicle. It looks good. It's the same procedure exactly for the rear of the vehicle. The hardest bit of the work is definitely removing of the glue. It takes some time. A nice solvent for that which won't harm the paint and a good polish before you apply the new letters. The lettering whether the decal being Range Rover, Land Rover, Discovery 1, 2, 3, LR4, LR3 of course, a new discovery, you can order right here through us if you like and talk to any of our professional salesman out front. If we don't have it in stock we can get it in stock and available for you. Again the tool makes it even easier. We have this kit in stock. Not too sure what the pricing is but I know we always keep it in stock and a good strong hairdryer or if you're a shop of course you may have access to a heat gun. There's not much else to it. So feel free to call any of our sales team 1-800-533-2210.
Have the headlight lenses on your Land Rover or Range Rover taken on a clouded and yellowed appearance? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, apply the Sonax Headlight Restoration Kit , to the lenses of our Range Rover Sport Supercharged to bring the headlights back to their original transparency for a more attractive appearance and safer driving. This Headlight Restorer will work on any type vehicle's plastic headlight lens, including plastic taillight lenses. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. For more how-to videos on any Rover vehicle, visit Resources video section .
Kit # SON405941 Headlight Restorer Kit Applying Sonax Headlight Restorer On Any Land Rover Plastic Headlight LensHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about a product that we carry now to help you with an issue that's been starting to show up now on some of the older Sports and basically any vehicle that has the plastic headlight lenses. Something a lot of people don't take into consideration, that they are plastic. They are a very heavy duty plastic but as you're going down the road at 50, 60, 70 miles per hour, and just the normal dirt and debris, it's essentially like sandblasting them. So over a period of time they get very fogged, they get discolored. So of course the lighting level of your vehicle diminishes as they fog up. Which is not a safe condition. you want those lenses as clear as possible. So, what we have here is a product that will help you eliminate, or at least greatly reduce the amount of damage that has been done to those lenses. Because replacement on a lot of these assemblies are very, very expensive. So essentially what you get in the kit is 2 sanding pads. One of them, with the white side, actually they both have white. And the white is a coarse, and I'm going to say coarse, but yet it just feels like a cotton pad. And then you have a fine on the other side, and we're going to show you why in a few minutes. I'm going to show you basically how to apply this. You have a polishing compound which you're going to use because essentially what that fogging is, is not only chemical, but it is also the fact that you've now developed a rough surface on the lexan. So essentially we're going to polish it out. You've also got sealer that when we're all said and done with the cleaning, you're going to put the sealer on there to help protect it, along with several other polishing, or buffing pads to help wipe it all clean. So, this is a German made product. It's very good quality. Definitely works. And what we have behind me here is a 2006 Sport that's starting to do the same thing. And we're going to show you how to use it. So before I begin what we're going to do is show you this is what we're dealing with. You have areas that are fogged around the perimeter of the lenses. The most important area is right in front of the headlights.And then essentially what you'll do is come back with the polishing pad and then you're going to wipe that down. And that's going to look nice and clean. So, there are several different things this will do for you. One, obviously it's going to improve you're night vision. Two, and it's amazing how much better it makes the vehicle look when the headlights are clean and shiny as opposed to all fogged out. That fogging actually just makes the vehicle start to show its age. So, by polishing out the headlights it actually will improve the looks of the vehicle as well. So this will essentially work on any of these plastic lenses you're going to see on Land Rover, Range Rover, but any other vehicles that have these plastic lenses. And it will work just as well on fogged out taillights as well. It's the same material, the same plastic so you can use it on the taillights. So when you're ready to improve your night vision and you want to make your vehicle look better, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Are your Land Rover Grille Emblems worn and dingy? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the grille emblems on a Land Rover Sport Supercharged. This video shows the process that will work for grille emblem/badge replacement on most Land Rovers or Range Rovers.
Remove and Replace the Land Rover Grille Emblem/Badge On Most Land Rover and Range RoversHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going talk about badges. And that's essentially how they reference this. This is the little tag, the little oval you'll see on the front and back of your Land Rover. You'll notice that on this one this one has a black background. You can see the difference, as the ones up front especially because they get sand blasted and whatnot over the years while you're driving. So, you may look at that and go eh, it's looking a little dingy, might want to do a nice upgrade. Make my truck look fairly like new again. So, in this case, because this is a Supercharged model, this is going to have the black background. On the vehicles equipped with the 4.4, non Supercharged, you're going to use the green background. And we do list both in our catalog. Unless you want to fool your neighbor and make them think you have a Supercharged, you can put the black emblems on your 4.4. So, to change them over is relatively easy. There's just a light adhesive on the back that holds them in place. The only things you're going to need to change it is probably just a small straight tipped screw driver, and then I recommend you go in and raid your first aid kit and find an alcohol pad because what we're going to do is clean the back of this out with the alcohol so there's no grease and that the adhesive on the back of that badge is going to stick good and solid, it's not going to fly off on you. So, to start with, we're just going to take a nice small screw driver and we're going to work in behind there. We don't need to pry hard. We just keep working at it a little bit at a time. We don't want to do any damage to the grille. And you'll see that just very gently, we can peel this out of here. Adhesive is pretty strong, but definitely removable. All right, so we're just going to keep working that a little bit at a time. We don't need to go crazy. And there we are. All right. So the old one's out. Take our little alcohol pad. Now just as I say, this doesn't come with the badge, so you may want to grab one of these. Like I say you can find them in most first aid kits or even just if you have any rubbing alcohol around the house, put that in a clean rag. And we just want to rub the back out just so we have no grease. All right so we took that little straight blade screw driver and we basically ended up with some little chunks here and there and we scraped that out. We wiped this really good with some rubbing alcohol. And give it a couple minutes. We're going to let it dry out. And then all you simply need to do is just peel off the back. Hold on to this. Don't drop it. Sort of set that in place. And just feel it into the spot. And just give it a good squeeze to get it in there. Once that locks on that's not going to go anywhere. And don't be afraid to spend a few extra minutes to do that. You want to get that area cleaned out as well as possible. And there we are. That looks much better. Now we're going to do the same in the back and the vehicle is going to look so much better for it. So when you're ready to either replace the badges, or do a little upgrade on your 4.4, just get a hold of any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
For the Winter ski season, have you been looking for a Ski and Roof Rack solution for Your Range Rover Full Size L322? We have what you are in search of by Thule Racks! We include everything you need to install this Thule Ski Rack Kit: the Thule Traverse Roof Rack Fitting Kit; the Thule Traverse Foot Pack; the Thule - Ski Rack Carrier - Fixed - 6-Pair Capacity; and Thule - Load Bars - 58" (Pair). Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install this Thule Ski and Roof Rack on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2009 (L322). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
hi I'm Doug your tech support rep here at Atlantic British and in this video we're going to touch base on the ski and assembly for our full-size L 322 missile 50 years from O 3 all the way up 209 and what it is is a combination of the crossbar setup and the roof rack adapters for the skis made by thule and we actually carry it under a complete kit it gives you everything that you need under the part number th810 to show you a little easier way to install it it's a quick fit system that can be taken off easily when it's done with it even comes with labels so that when you go to reinstall it everything shows you exactly where you need to be and everything's already pre-measured so let's show you how to go about it alright so just so if you if you're looking into the instructions of reading through them you're going to notice our procedure varies a little bit I found some ways that I felt was a little bit easier and right off the bat you have these basically these pads that are to be installed on the bottom of the feet for both sides of the crossbar and you'll see how that matches the pattern and I found it would seem to be easier if you work on the front essentially there's just a little lip all the way around this rubber pad that grabs around the base of the foot so you want to push in so that you actually feel it roll over the edge and click it you just work your way all the way around and keep doing that and when you look at it you'll see or should see basically a nice clean line between the rubber and the foot that you attached it to so you know it's nice and flat and then we'll do the same to the other side so next is going to be installing the feet onto the crossbar now you notice the crossbars rectangular not square so to install the foot on there there is a lever in the back that we're gonna use and it will release and allow that to move around some that well essentially just slide right over the top of this and it takes a little fussing around because the end of the rubber and the coating that they have on a crossbar sticks up a little bit and we'll just slide that on and leave a couple inches on each end because that's gonna get you fairly close to where you need to be when you mount it on the roof we'll slide this on now in the instructions they give you specific measurements from the inside and actually you should measure cross from edge to edge and even then I found to be a little bit off so what we essentially are going to do is we're going to set this up on the roof set our distance on our pads and lock them down immediately and then from there we can install the grips that will lock this on to the top of the top of the roof alright so by leaving a couple inches old hanging over on each end we came actually very close once we set it up on the roof we're just gonna sort of Center the bar we'll go back and forth a couple times if you need to slide this up and down to even it up essentially though what you should have ideally is on both sides this little curl to the bottom of the rubber pad we installed should just conform right with the body of the vehicle so we know we got a nice firm footing so once you've done that reach in the back and you have your lever that you pulled up and you're gonna click that down that's gonna lock the foot to the crossbar do the same to the other side all right and now that we have the levers lock down we're gonna fall up the face plate in the front and then you'll see here this is what that attaching leg that's gonna wrap around the edge of the door here and then we're gonna lock that down now they tell you in the instructions to back this off until you're almost to the point where it stops turning which will be full loosening well you really don't need to go that far now I'm going to show you two on this little tool on this tool you have on the green part aligned through the center on the gray part you have a little indicator not just above that in the instructions and they tell you how to do this when we go to tighten everything down you're gonna turn this until this green arrow actually turns to the point that that center line lines up with the indicator on the gray section essentially a torque inch so this is going to tell you exactly how much to tighten that down so what we'll do now is we back this off a little bit we're gonna raise that up and sneak this up inside clip that around the body and you may need to click on this case we're going to open the door so that we get that seated when we close the door it's gonna hold that in place so we had that now being we're just doing the one side and when you start you're just going to turn this until it just starts to give you some resistance and that will give us some play and now you get two of these little tools with this kit so I've got the second one in my pocket now I'm gonna go to the other side and I'm going to tighten that down alright so we'll do the same to this we're gonna back this off now you've probably noted or you might even be thinking where am I going to put the crossbar what I've done is you can see it's sort of lines up in centers with the top of the little vent window on the back of the rear door and then you'll see the front which is already mounted just ahead of the upright of the front door so this way that eliminates all that measuring and why not so remember on the other side we've got locked now so now we can slide this in let's make sure we got a nice even grip all the way around with the pads sitting just where it needs to be on the body we walk down the back and then we can lift up slide that in and again open up the door we just need to back that off a little bit more and close the door to hold it and now this side because we've got the other side snug we can torque this one end and then we're going to go back around to the other side to finish it off so I'll turn this you can see how the green part actually sweeps over a little bit and you got an indicator on both sides so it shouldn't matter at what point you can always see it and you'll feel it get pretty tight and just about there we're lined up so we'll pull that out and then we'll go around to the other side do the exact same thing and then essentially at that point our crossbars are set up so now we can put on our ski holders so now we're ready for the ski holders now you'll see you've got a whole bunch of different adapters on this the reason for that is that these can be purchased separately and they can be used with some of the other styles that Thule makes as far as the crossbars like the AeroBlade and the other models that they're currently making so this way if you already have Thule crossbars for another accessory or whatnot these can be adapted to work with those so because we're working with the rectangular bar the square bar we're going to be installing these four adapters there's two that goes on to each cross piece and this is how they're going to mount on there now to install them you have to actually remove or lift off this bottom rubber piece all right now there is a high area and a low area and I recommend you try to peel this off of the high area because the lower side actually has a deeper groove in it that holds it in place instructions tell you to take it right off but you really don't need to you can get your fingers underneath there and I found if you spray a little dry silicone spray on there this all becomes a lot easier to do now you see once I left it and the Reese for that was it exposes the holes that you're going to need to mount these adapters and that is essentially just going to go like that with the stud up and then you have these lock tabs and this has a nut on the end that swivels so we'll swivel that in place and we want to screw that right on and lock it just basically Snug it tighten it right down and again because you because you have a metal nut in a plastic housing go crazy with the torque so your spin this thing until it's good and snug you want to try to keep this foot that you're attaching to the cross piece and it's perpendicular 90 degrees as possible if you're a little off don't worry about it it'll work just fine so we're gonna spin that in so we feel it get snug try to go at least a full turn then this way that will lead down there and then we'll do the same and you can essentially mount you'll see these are the screws that you're going to turn that tighten this strap that grabs around the bar and you can face them to the front of the back wherever it's easiest for you to get at it now it's a little tighter back here but you can actually hold the crossbar up pull the rubber back and then the same thing will start this nut and run it down till we tighten it okay so now we have the bases in now I found that with the silicone you can pop this piece right back in it pops in there real nice and then the silicone will eventually dry or you can simply wipe it when you're done but there you go it pops right in so now your piece is assembled now I want to touch base on one thing and they'll show you in the instructions when you wrap this strap around in place there's a keyway right here and as you'll see that it's an open key way now the reason for this is once you have these mounted you can install the key way on this which is set up just like this you're going to get four tumblers they're all keyed alike same numbers and they simply install you'll turn it until it pops in all right so to install first off like I said the knobs that we tighten on the feet for this ski mount we want to make sure we have access to it and then of course your release so you get your skis in and out you obviously want on the outside of the vehicle so just set that there that'll pop up and the reason I did it this way is it's a lot easier for me to reach it right here and then we can just click this as well there now we just a matter of making sure that we got a nice flat made here and then we'll turn these gray knobs in until we're good and tight just something I want to make note of in this kit you get a little sticker that notes front left front right right rear left rear and this is for installing on the rack after you've done all your measuring and you put your thing on there you actually have a little spot right there and you can put the location on and the reason for that is because you have this all measured out that once you if you do decide for the to install the key you still have the tool to remove these just will pop off you can just back off on the adjustments they come off when you go to use it the next time you just think so you already know what locations it goes into you lock it down you're done you don't have to go through the whole re-installation process so just something I wanted to make note of all right so last but not least you've got you can see you still have a key insert on this and you can use the same keys that we have for the lowers there's a little plug right here you can pop out and insert the key way in there so you can set this all up as locking all I'm based on one key number so the other aspect is you're gonna set your push that lift to put your key in your ski in place of course obviously we have to put another one the other one on the back bar will assemble that and then lay your skis in and then that'll just click in and hold them in place now that's it this way you got a good double lock on here and it's gonna hold them good and firm and again you can put the key way in there and then also in your kit for the crossbars you'll have a little plastic caps you're gonna cert them on both ends and that's going to add to a little bit of more weather proofing so that's basically all it is to it this is a good setup for your skis it's good it's a nice tight fit it is designed to fit your L 322 right from 2003 all the way up to 2009. alright so when you're ready to do so you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 or you can click on this link and you can order this part of dent directly online or if you like our video we'd like to see more you can go to our YouTube channel subscribe to that so we thank you for watching and we're over on.
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