COVID-19 - We're in this together. UPDATE: We're open and taking orders. New curbside pickup available. Read More
×
water pump videos
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to access and replace the water pump on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. A common replacement item, water pump part # STC4378OE includes a new gasket. Please note: This How-To Video applies to and is also valid for a 1997 Defender 90, 1995 - 2002 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995 Range Rover Classic, vehicles with 4.0 / 4.6 Bosch or GEMS engine.
Kit # STC4378OE Replacing the Water Pump on 1999-2004 Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on a common item that's replaced on the 4.0 and 4.6 engines, both BOSCH and GEMS. It would be the water pump. They can fail in several different ways, one being either an outer seal leak, bearing wear out, or an impeller wear out. So we're going to touch base on replacement of the water pump and show you this is something that you can do yourself and in your driveway. This is a relatively easy repair. Now we offer several different water pumps, each at different levels. All are proper fit to your vehicle. You want to check with your salesman and find out what would best suit your purposes and suit your needs on your vehicle. So what we are going to do is we're going to basically show you how to access the water pump and then I'm going to use this front cover to give you a closer bird's eye view of what you're going to be dealing with when you do the changeover. for the Discovery 2, 1999 to 2004. Then it's just a matter of re-install your lower hose, put your fan and your belt back on, put your shroud on, and you're good to go. So again, when you're ready to change over the water pump on your vehicle, and I said this will work on any of the 4.0 or 4.6, both GEMS and BOSCH, which would be your P38 Range Rover, Discovery 1, Discovery 2, late Classic and your Defender 90 as well. So give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, strip down the front engine compartment and complete the timing chain and related components on a Range Rover Sport 2011 (non-supercharged). This service is not recommended for the do-it-yourselfer, and will give you a new appreciation for your Land Rover tech. The job requires special tools (covered in the video) and in-depth knowledge of the Range Rover. The genuine Timing Chain Kit # TCK5030 provides all the components you need for a complete timing chain and timing component overhaul on an LR4, Range Rover Full Size or Range Rover Sport (see years for exact fitment.) Includes 3 chains, guides, shoes and related parts for a complete replacement and overhaul. The specialty tools needed for this job are available as related items with kit # TCK5030 on our website. Gareth will also address changing out the water pump and thermostat, and camshaft sprockets, which is part of tearing down to access timing chain and /or recommended wear replacements. Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Finding quality replacement engines for the Land Rover Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic and Range Rover models has not always been an easy task. Our Engine Rebuild Program offers high-quality 4.0 and 4.6-liter remanufactured BOSCH and GEMS engines - all with improved design and function over the Original Equipment engines! Watch as we walk through the lengths we go to in order to rebuild the highest quality engines. Questions about this video? Check out our engines section , call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Quality Replacement Engines for Land Rover Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic and P38 Range Rover vehicles. Hi. My name is Steve Springer, I'm with Atlantic British, and today we are going to talk about the 9257 engines that Atlantic British remanufactures. This is an example of the long block. It includes both the water pump and the timing cover in addition to the heads here. We install brand new rocker arm assemblies, new push rods, new tappet assemblies. The head is fitted with new valves, both intake and exhaust. And it is also fitted with new valve springs. The only parts that we reuse are the keepers here on the top. In addition to the heads we only use new rod bolts and head bolts. They are all stretchable one use bolts. So we ensure we get proper torque specs by using brand new bolts when we reassemble the engines. In addition we replace the freeze plugs on the side of the engine here and the cam seal here in the back. One thing that makes our rebuilds different than the original engines is that we use a specially designed cylinder flange. When we receive a block back we cut the original cylinder sleeve out of the engine and we reinstall these. Now these have a flange. What this prevents, first of all, is the sleeve sliding down into the cylinder. The other thing that happens is that this then seals against the head in the head gasket. This prevents any exhaust gases from escaping over the edge and down between the cylinder sleeve and the inside of the block. Another thing that makes our engines different is that we have also had manufactured for us special cam bearings and these cam bearings have additional oil ports that allow for a better lubrication on the front of the engine here, where all of the timing components put a little more strain on the cam shaft so this help ensure the camshaft is properly lubricated. When Atlantic British machines these blocks is what we do is we deck the blocks here (imagine the head removed), and what we do is ensure that the top of the block is then parallel saddles on the crank shaft. What that does is ensure the cylinders have the same volume. In other words your engine will run alot smoother, especially at idle, and will keep the stresses even on the inside of the engine. Often times when we receive these blocks back there will be 7 to 9 thousandths of runout between the front of the engine there and the rear of the engine there. And through our machining process we ensure that all of the surfaces are absolutely parallel. In addition, we polish the crank shafts. We do reuse the pistons and the connecting rods after they've been carefully measured, cleaned and we're positive they meet original equipment specifications. We use new pistons rings. We also use a brand new camshaft, and as I mentioned before new camshaft bearings to ensure that the engine operates better than new. 3 different options on these engines. We sell a short engine, which is just this portion of the engine with no heads, no valve components, no water pump and no timing cover. We also sell a version of the engine that has this block as you see it plus the heads and all the valve train components. One thing we need to be careful on these engines is that a Land Rover engine runs on particularly low oil pressure so you have to be sure you have proper oil pressure before you install a new engine. And the oil pump is located here in the lower part of the timing cover. There is a relief valve in the timing cover which allows excess pressure to be put back into the oil pan. However, those are not rebuildable. Often that is the failure of the oil pump. The oil will become a little bit gritty. The overflow piston will stick. The oil pressure will drop and you will end up with an overheating problem in your engine. You don't want that to reoccur in a brand new engine block. That will also void your warranty. This 9257 engine fits the early Range Rovers, the Discovery 1s, the Discovery 2s and the later Range Rovers, the P38s. For more information on these and other high quality products from Atlantic British please check out our website at www.roverparts.com or feel free to call our sales people at 800-533-2210. You can also find us on YouTube and Facebook. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give a demonstration of the process involved in installing new front and rear brake rotors and brake pads on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series II. Our money-saving kit includes brake rotors and brake pads for a front and rear service. Please note: This How-To video applies to all our brake rebuild kits for Discovery Series II.
Kit # 9542AG Rebuilding Brake Rotors and Pads on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on probably one of the most common do it yourself jobs that our customers do and that's brakes. You can save yourself a lot of money by doing the brakes yourself. If you have even the most basic of mechanical ability, and follow the instructions you can do these brakes yourself. Now what we're going to do is, I'll give you a quick rundown on the kit that we have available, which is kit 9542AG, and what that will include is rotors, front and back, brake pads, front and back, new bolts for your caliper mounts, and new retainer screws for the rotors. Now what I'll do is give you a rundown, Starting off you're going to need some basic tools, and you're going to need some tools that you may not necessarily have in your kit. You're going to need probably a good 32 ounce hammer. You're going to use this for both the hand impact and to knock the rotors off the hub. A pair of slip joint or water pump pliers. A nice wire brush. A 12 millimeter socket on a short extension and three eighths drive. A screw driver that you're mostly going to use for prying and for moving. A three eighths drive ratchet. A three quarter inch 12 point socket. And these will be for the 2 retainer bolts that hold the caliper mount on the knuckle. And a good half inch drive ratchet. Now I use the longer handle on this. If you have a short handle ratchet you'll probably want to use a cheater pipe or an extension to give you more leverage. Those 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place are going to be tight. Especially if they are the first time coming off. So there's our kit. There's our tools. Now I have the advantage of obviously having this up on a lift. If you're doing this in your driveway, make sure you put a good support, jack stands underneath. Always have a second type of support. A wooden block, another floor jack, something underneath. You can never be too safe when you're working underneath a vehicle. So now let's give you a rundown on how to change over your brakes. When you're ready to do the brakes, as I said, this is probably one of the most common DIY projects you'll do. This is probably good for a long afternoon or full weekend day. But to do it right is well worth it in the long run. You'll save yourself alot of money. When you're ready to do so, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
Doug gives an overview look of the front engine cover on a 4.0 / 4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid-1999 to 2004 with Bosch Systems. Common failures / issues and how to identify and resolve.
An Overview Look at the Front Engine Cover on 4.0/4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid - 1999 to 2004 with Bosch SystemsCommon Failures / Issues and How to Identify and ResolveHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video I think what we're going to do is take an overview look of the front engine cover on 4.0 and 4.6 Land Rover engines. Used primarily from mid 1999 - 2004 and this engine is the type with the Bosch system. There's several things that you can look for on front covers. They actually hold a very important part in regards to engine design and control. And so we're going to touch base on a few things just to give you an idea of what you are dealing with. Now this is a nice fresh front cover, right out of an engine. All cleaned up. Now the first thing you'll notice in the front of course, is your mount for your water pump. You have a gasket between the water pump and the front cover and you can at different points have these gaskets fail where you can develop a coolant leak. This opening right here is for your cam position sensor. Which, when you do some work on the front of the motor you will see two wires actually, enter at this point. One will be to the cam sensor and the other sensor you have is your oil pressure sensor. Now, this has the newer design on it, with the rectangular opening for the connector instead of the single spade. If you are converting from an earlier Bosch engine with the single spade sensor, and of course when you order a new one you will get this design. There is also a jumper wire you will need to get to attach the two together. It's just a small jumper. Down below that is your oil filter housing. Your oil filter would screw on to the bottom here. And these two white plugs would be your connections for your oil cooler if your vehicle is equipped with an engine oil cooler. Some do, some don't. If you don't, you'll find two brass plugs in there that look similar to this one. If you do, of course they would be open and at the end of those two lines are two small O rings where you can also develop oil leaks so it is a good area to look into. Now if you come around to the back you get into the guts of the front cover. Here lies a gasket all the way around. And they are known to create failure on the driver side top corner, the gasket likes to pop out. You can see you have a relatively thin area for it to seal. And you will get some times and I've run into this before on diagnosing some of these, the coolant leak that you can't find because it is essentially in a very hidden area and it starts off as a very slow leak. So this would be an area to look at if you feel you are losing coolant, you know you have a leak but you just can't find it, this is a good place to look. Then you have your oil pump. The oil pump is mounted internally in the cover, and the cover itself is actually the outer machined area of the oil pump. In the oil pump you have your central drive gear. This is driven by the crankshaft, and then it turns this rotor, which in turn, turns this rotor, and they're designed to run in an eccentric design so as the gearing crushes together it creates pressure, and at the very bottom, built into this you will see the oil pressure bypass valve, that little spring down inside the housing and that is the exiting point of your oil, from that point to your filter and into the rest of your engine. So that pretty much covers the front cover. Now, something just a quick mention: on the Bosch design, with the oil pump, this is your connection for your oil pick up tube. Which means to remove this front cover you also need to remove the oil pan. So if you should be replacing this gasket and you're ordering your parts be sure to get an oil pan gasket. You're going to need it because you're going to remove the oil pan to access it. Other than that, this is pretty much a basic design. This is the same front cover you'll see on all the 4.0 and 4.6 with a Bosch design. Clear cut, aluminum, light weight and now that you have an idea of what problems may occur on this, you know where to look. Again, I'm Doug, tech support representative for Atlantic British. Any of the parts we stock for this you can order through any of our knowledgeable salesmen, and you can reach us at 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, replace the serpentine belt (using Kit # ERR5579 ) on a 1997 Defender 90. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and remove the belt, and then replace and install a new belt. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles.
Part #: ERR5579 Belt Change On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on belt replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. And in this kit you simply will be getting the replacement serpentine belt. Now this particular belt is used on both the 97 Defenders and the Discovery 1 4 liters. Now you'll see a part number ERR5579D and what we are going to do is show you the basics on belt replacement. Now I'm going to show you how easy it is to change the serpentine belt on your D90. This is a 97 with the serpentine, not with the multiple V belts. This is the belt you are going to receive in your kit. Your part number ERR5579D. Set that right there. First step is we're going to take this upper coolant hose; that will just slide up out of the way very nicely. You have 2 bolts that run down through the brackets that support the fan shroud. Normally, 10 millimeter heads on the 2. And the center section of this upper shroud is just held in place with 2 clips. One here - just going to lift up. Release that clip. Down on the other side you have the same style clip. You are going to roll this forward so that it clears so you can lift straight up and out. And this gives you pretty nice access to this. We've got enough clearance in there. Your belt tensioner, which is right here, has a 15 millimeter head on the nut right there and that's what we are going to turn to take the tension of the belt. Now it's a 15 millimeter, I use a long 15 wrench, gear wrench. There are a number of fan wrenches available out there. You just need something fairly long that will give you the leverage you need. You're going to push down which you see releases the tension on the belt. Slip it off of the top of the alternator. As a note, before you take the belt off completely, take a note of the way it is routed. Under the water pump. Under the lower pulley. Over the top of the power steering pump. Top of the alternator. And around the compressor. Once you loosen the belt up the fan is in the way. So you can loop the belt around the fan. Turn the fan until that area of the belt comes around. The fan will actually assist in that, help you out with that. Take this side off the power steering pump. Push it down to give it some slack. Then simply slide your belt out. Now this belt is in pretty good position. We're just doing this as demonstrative so you would essentially just take your belt out. And what I recommend, just a habit I got into all the years is take the 2 belts, end to end, stretch them out. You just want to verify you have the right size belt before you go try and install it and find out it might be off an inch. And this one is a good fit. You can see it is exactly the same as the original that came out. Set that aside. Drop this down so you can actually slip the bottom of the belt right underneath the fan. Which will then put us right around the bottom of the lower pulley which is where we should be. We'll start off there with the installation. Lift up a little bit and set the belt in the grooves. We remembered we went over the top of the power steering pump. We're going to take this piece on the right side and just run it here around the AC compressor, because that's where eventually it is going to go. And we went under the water pump, which means we have to go around the fan again. Fortunately with this upper shroud off you really have some room to work where you can put your hand down inside and push that belt down below the fan blades. It's a tight fit between the water pump and the lower pulley, which means you can feed in from one side and pull out the other. There we go. You want to check and see that we didn't slip off the bottom pulley. And as I say, we can get our hand down in there. Very good. Now make sure the belt is centered. You want to give it a good look because it could feel like it is on but you could be 1 rib over, which means after you put it on you'll have to take it all back apart again and readjust it. Okay, centered on both sides of the lower. Centered on the underside of the water pump pulley. Over the top of the power steering pulley. We're going to be between the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley. Top of the alternator. Now when we go around the AC compressor you can unloop the belt from around the alternator because that's where you're going to end up putting it back on. And you hold up on that section of the belt to retain tension so that you don't slip off down below and have to do that again. We'll double check. We're still centered on the bottom pulley. Look good here. Look good here. Center the belt on the idler pulley. Again you're going to maintain tension, take your long 15 millimeter, push down to relieve the tension on the belt. Slide that on. Check for tension - that looks good. Again always double check and triple check to make sure your ribs are lined up where they should be, that your belt is centered on the pulleys and we look good. Essentially our belt is now on. All we need to do at this point is reinstall the upper shroud cover. Put your clips on. Your 2 bolts. And you have changed your serpentine belt. Now when you put this upper shroud in there's actually sort of a slot that it sits in. You want to make sure it is fully seated. And you will know if it isn't because you'll have a real hard time trying to clamp this clip. If it pops on that easy you know you're in place. Same thing with the lower. You'll feel it pop in. Clamp it. Put your 2 bolts back in to hold on the upper shroud. These are essentially just sheet metal screws that thread into the plastic itself. Put your hose back on. Make sure that when you put the hose back on that you don't create any tight bends, that you have a good looping bend on there so that it doesn't restrict the coolant. And there you are. You have a brand new belt on there. So when you you're ready to change the belt on your D90, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Is the tail light lens cracked on your new 2014 Range Rover Sport? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how easy it is to replace the tail light assembly on the 2014 Range Rover Sport. Process is the same for right (part #LR061588OEM) and left (part #LR061589OEM) hand lamp assemblies. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part #: LR061588OEM (RH) or LR061589OEM (LH) Tail Light Assembly Replacement on 2014 Range Rover Sport, 5.0L V8, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. On this video we're going to touch base on replacement on a tail light assembly on 2014 Sport. So this is the new body Sport. And it's not much different than the older one, but unfortunately as you can see, even the new ones are prone to parking lot damage. This one we think either got backed into or we're not really sure what happened. But obviously it got damaged. So, it can happen. So, what we've done is we got a replacement and we're going to give you a quick video on how to install it. Alright, so we've raised the tail gate. We're going to show you basically the only 2 tools you are going to need. A little vinyl trim tool. You want to use the vinyl because then you're not going to scratch paint or damage to any components. And a number 30 torch drive on an extension and a 3/8ths ratcheting ratchet. So, first thing you're going to do is you're going to notice you can't see any of the hardware. You have a little piece of trim here that covers the inside of the bulb. We're going to basically get our fingers in on that piece of trim and pull straight back. And that pops right out and you'll see that there are your 2 clips and they actually pop into the 2 slots that are built right onto this tail light. So we'll put that aside and then we'll take out our 2 number 30 torques head bolts. Alright so now we're going to take our trim tool and we're going to get between the body and the light. And we're going to go straight back. And you'll see all that is basically is a pin that pops into a nylon bushing on there so there's no screw or bolt to detach. We'll put that down. We want to hold this away form the body. We don't want to scratch any paint. And we're essentially just going to puch that little tab right there. And unplug the light. And that's it. We're out. And to replace the new one we're essentially just going to reverse the order and plug that until you hear the click. And we're essentially going to set that in the pocket. Make sure the wires not pinched between the lamp and the body. And just set that right in there. Pop that in. And we'll put our 2 bolts back in. So now lastly we're going to put the trim back in. Remember we got the 2 clips are going to point straight to the front of the vehicle. Tuck in underneath. I want to try to line those up as close as possible. It pops in. Now you want to make sure that the rubber flap on the upper trim goes up over the top of the piece of trim you just put in. Reason being is the rain water runs down here. If this is tucked in behind there that means you're water is going to get in there as well. Kind of defeating the purpose behind this rubber strip. So what we do is take the trim tool and just get up in behind it and lift it out so it's over the top. So we're in. We're secure. We're flush. Now next step obviously is to turn the lights on. Make sure all the lights are functioning in there. And essentially you're done. So that's all you need to do to replace your tail lights. So, should you need to replace the tail lights on your new body Sport, just call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch how to install a trailer wiring kit on a Range Rover Sport. This exclusive trailer wiring kit contains all the wiring and connectors needed for the install, including an OE-spec harness, interchangeable Flat-4 and 7-way connector ends and easy-to-follow instructions.
Okay, today we're doing an install of the trailer wiring harness Atlantic British part number YWJ500170ABP to the rear of this 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. To start off with we're gonna have to remove the rear lamp assembly, the interior panel and probably flip down the front, there ,sorry the left rear quarter seat of the back panel of the seat so we can gain access. Once we're removed we're gonna get access to all the right connectors on the inside of the panel. I'm gonna run the harness through behind the bumper, up behind the tail lamp assembly and then into the vehicle and connect up where necessary. Remove the rear lamp - two phillips screws on the inside where the tailgate seal is, top of bottom. This ones easy and loose. Normally they're a bit of a tight fit on the receivers. Sometimes you have to get a plastic trim tool behind the panel here and give it a slight bit of leverage. I'm gonna disconnect that from the main harness. If I can find out where the clip is. Right there. We see the harness coming up here from the back of the vehicle. This is the old harness. We're going to be installing a new updated harness and connector for the rear tail lights and the trailer mount. And it will be installed the opposite way around to the old style. The old-style connector - very similar in design, however the new style that we carry means that we actually have to rotate the connector assembly 180 degrees. So in this kit the connector actually still includes the four pin connector, the standardized one, and the 7-way, which also includes the trailer braking connectors, pins I should say. So now we have the lamp out the next step is to remove the rear, left rear quarter panel, interior panel, but to do that I want to ensure I remove the bottom panel here because as you can see I already started a little bit but it's fouling on the bottom panel and to avoid damage to any of the panel's I like to remove any necessary fixings first. Now I have the two luggage clips removed. A little bit of a tug on the back edge of this panel will remove it from the vehicle. These are a couple of locating dowels, looks like one of the clips has been damaged in the past.We'll be replacing that. One real, one left on it. So I'll move that to one side and that gives us access to removing the rear quarter panel. I already started to loosen it off before and it looks like we can gain enough access into the back to do the work we need to do. So here we have the new unit semi installed. The orientation for the connector, the trailer socket, is like so when it's inside. It can get a bit fiddly trying to install it through the small area you have but it will go. It just takes a little time of up and down, up and down, and working into the back of the vehicle. Once it's in you can screw it in securely. Okay here we have the new 7-way trailer wiring connector installed. Screwed in tight. There's the four pin.There's the 7 pin. As you can see all the four screws are in. The silver stuff on the, around the screws, is anti-seize compound because these do have a bit of a tendency to get tight and corrode especially being out to the elements. All the water and everything flying around. Definitely advise putting anti-seize compound on it. But it's in as you can see. Properly installed into the back of the bumper. The next process is we're gonna route the pigtail harness from the connector, up behind the bumper, up to where the rear tail lamp assembly is. This as you can see hit the pigtail harness is out of the back, of the rear bumper, reinforcement. The harness is sort of located through the top of the bumper area. I can feel it's. Just gone lose there. Ignored the red cable. This is an aftermarket cable put in by the owner of the vehicle. It does go into the car follow the same route as the trailer harness but it's not part of the trailer harness. So it goes over the weights for harmonic noise, over the other side and as you can see up underneath the tailpipe here this is where it came out. And we're gonna route it right up, pretty much following where the headlights, the rear tail light comes out and mounted to behind the vehicle. So as you can see here's the pigtail harness come through behind the bumper, right beneath the lamp assembly. There's another section of wiring that attaches to it, here, by these two connectors. And this is all then routed through this hole into the back of the vehicle. So I've connected the two connectors, the, sorry, the rectangular one and the square one. The two pieces of foam tape that come in the kit actually wrap around there to stop it from rattling against the body of the vehicle, causing any annoyance of noise inside. So now I'm going to route the rest of the cable in through the back of the car, put the grommet in its place in the hole, and then start connecting the three connectors and the ground wire. Here on the outside of the vehicle still, we have the harness that I'm going to connect up, we have the park distance control, we have the three connectors that go in through the hole and the grommet that, go, plugs the hole r right here at the back of the vehicle. Everything's pretty much color coded or size coordinated for the interior. Okay so I've installed the grommet into the rear of the vehicle. As you can see nice and uniformly there. This is the wiring for the park distance control on the back of the vehicle. This is the connector to it from the new harness. Now the new connector for the park distance will come with a blanking plug in the end of it. You can see the little red rubber grommets inside there that blank off any water getting in. This does have to be removed from the harness that you'll be receiving. You slide the little slide, a little bit stiff, slide the slide back you can press on the little latch there and pull and it will come right off at the main connector. Then the connector goes back in to the main harness there. Clicks into place. You may have a little bit of residual extra harness. It will soon, it will wrap up and form nicely in the back behind the lamp unit that we're going to install.So here's the harness from the back of the vehicle. The exterior of the vehicle, routed through into the back left corner. As you can see we've got all the three connectors. They're all different size and color-coded and they attach to the main harness in the vehicle here.The ground is then routed and it will go on this round unit here. It can actually attach to any of the three as long as it finds a good ground point. So I'm going to start by putting some of these connectors together. We've got a small gray one. Two. Wiggle it around. Three. Just push them into the location points. It's a nice good clean ground point. 10 millimeter nut. Pinched up nice and tight and firmly. And that's the electricals done on the inside of the vehicle. All we have left to do really, is really put the left rear corner trim back into place, the base trim I took out and the lamp unit in the left rear corner. Straightforward enough. Back and firmly in place. I'll start on the rear trim. Right, so, the kit is all pretty much finished and installed. Just a quick test connecting it to a trailer with preferably trailer brakes, which is I'm sure why anybody be wanting to purchase it. Because it's got the extra connector on it which is a fabulous idea. After a test everything should be finished and done. The trailer wiring kit again the part number for the Range Rover Sport model YWJ500170ABP. It's Atlantic British's own. They, it comes with full fitting instructions as you can see here. Very good colorful pictures. Very easy to understand and figure out how it goes together. Now you can contact our salesman at any point in time. The direct numbers 1-800-533-2210.
Jim offers a checklist of things to look for if you suspect your Land Rover is overheating. Watch Jim as he reviews many of the common signs of an overheating engine. Jim also provides an explanation of how to address an overheating engine.
Discovery Series II and All Rover Vehicles: When Rovers Overheat, What to look for & How to resolve.Hi it's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. This morning we're just going to do an overview of your engine is overheating. The first thing you need to do is check the obvious things. Check your coolant level. Like in this truck, you can see it right here. You can actually, you don't have to take anything apart. You can see the coolant is okay. Look at that. If it's okay, another thing is, you have an auxiliary fan up here. Make sure that's running when it gets warm. Also on most of the Rovers you have a viscous fan. When the engine's warmed up you can probably turn the car off when it's hot and just touch the fan. If it feels stiff, that means it's working. Next thing to do when you check for the coolant level, if it was down, you have to figure out where that went. Top it up and have somebody pressure test the system. Let it sit there and then look for obvious leaks. You'll see it on the ground. Discovery 2's are famous for leaking radiators. Everybody buys 2 or 3. Another common leak on this car, the Disco 2, or if you have a Range Rover with the Bosch engine. Over here, on the throttle body there's a heater down on the bottom. You can see 2 little hoses here. It's a throttle plate heater kit. We sell them all the time. It's a common leak. And some people can't figure it out. Some people go oh maybe it's a head gasket. But if you got a puddle of water on your valve cover there it's definitely that. It's a very common leak and it's not a hard repair. I believe we've gone over that at one time. After you do the pressure test and you're not seeing anything going on, like leaking out on the ground which would be hoses, head gaskets or that plate I was just talking about, you need to figure out what's going on. So pressure test it again, and let it sit for quite a while. While you're waiting, take all the spark plugs out. Have it set for a couple hours. And then with 2 people, have somebody turn the engine over with the spark plugs out and see if you're getting some anti freeze out the holes. That's going to tell you there is something wrong with the head gasket or possibly a block. If you tear this engine down, get the head gaskets out and don't see anything really wrong with the head gasket, I would suspect the block. You can get it pressure tested with the heads off. There's a kit that a lot of places have that can do that. If you have the liner problem, on these later engines, it used to be the liner would drop. The later engines that can't happen. They've change the blocks. But what happens is, anti freeze can work between the actual aluminum block and the steel cylinder. It actually works its way up and dumps into the cylinder. You can notice this if you start the engine up cold and it skips for a little while and then clears out. You're maybe looking at a block problem. Especially if it's one of the interior cylinders like 2 and 4 and 3 and 5. It's definitely a block problem. Here at Atlantic British we are rebuilding engines, we have a whole program going, and we actually change out the liner with what they call a top hat style liner. We bore the old one out. We push this new one in. It's sealed. It can't do that again. So if you do have the liner problem we can probably give you another engine. You can call our sales department at 1-800-533-2210. Explain to them what's going on. Think you may have a liner problem. And they can probably hook you up with a rebuilt short block. We also have all the head gaskets. All the hoses. Everything's in kits. It's easy to do. Just grab all your parts. Like I said, check us out on RoverParts.com. Or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and we can probably fix your overheating problem.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform an engine & transmission adaption reset on a 1999-2004 Land Rover Discovery Series II, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone , is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How To Use the iLAND App Engine and Transmission Adaption Reset Demonstrated on the Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about adaptions. Or better yet, clearing adaptions. What adaptions are is the control module for the engine and the control module for the transmission. As you drive the vehicle, will adapt to changes in the sensors, changes in your driving habits and essentially adapts to keep the vehicle within a certain efficiency level. So what happens is, should you develop a fault, like a mass airflow sensor or a transmission shift fault or anything else that will affect the drivability of the vehicle. After you've done the repair you need to clear the adaptions. Now I'll just quickly explain in the case of a mass airflow sensor, mass airflow sensor has deteriorated, so what happens is the system has adapted and constantly adapted until it's reached a certain limit it can no longer adapt. And you basically get your fault code. And you have to do a repair. You put the new airflow sensor in it, and what happens now is that's reading correctly, but your still running off the old adaptions and the cars going to run worse than it did before you did the repair, and you're going to think that's not the problem. What you need to do, any time you change O2 sensors, throttle body, throttle position, mass airflow sensor, you should always clear adaptions. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to do that with the new iLAND and how easy it is to do. And it's also very important so keep watching. Alright, so you now the basics. You're going to plug your iLAND in. You have your dongle that you plug into the diagnostic. You go through the basics and then you're going to go to this screen. Now on this screen you'll notice all the vehicles, all the blocks, are in the red. This is because this is the Pro series and we have access to all these different vehicles. If you've purchased an iLAND, you can get for just 1 design vehicle, like in this case say Discovery, it will be just red block on Discovery, the rest will be in white. So we're going to pick our Discovery, We'll go through what the call garage disclaimers. It's telling me we're in the current version, otherwise it would list another version underneath and we would load that in just so we know that we have the latest and the greatest. We'll hit confirm. And it's going to connect with the Bluetooth. And just give it a few minutes or a few seconds actually. It doesn't take that long. Here's our choices. We can go to any one of these Discovery versions. We're in a 1999 Discovery 2. And we'll go to engine. Now essentially all the Discovery 2s are going to be BOSCH motronic. No other system. That's basically the only petrol system they used on these with the 4.0 and later on the 4.6. So we now the ignition is on. The keys on, we can see our lights. Now you've got this listing of all the capabilities. But we're going to go down to vehicle maintenance. Gives you a little warning as far as looking at who should be working on the vehicle. Now here we have reset adaptions. This is very easy where we're going to hit that. It's going to sort of explain what adaptions are. And under what conditions you should be doing this under. Like say basically fuel injector. Lambda sensor, which is essentially O2 sensor. Fuel pump, mass airflow sensor, intake manifold leak or air leak repair. All that can affect adaptions. So then it's going to ask you at the bottom, basically confirm do you wish to reset ECM adaptions. So we're just going to do that. And they've been reset. Just that quickly, just that easy. But now what it has done it has reset all of the initial setting for the ECM back to original factory settings. So we hit OK. And we're all done with that. Then we can back up. And it's usually best that if you do one you should always do the other. It's reasonably easy to do. Just get this to back up here. Maybe it just doesn't like that finger. There we go. So we're back to part of our menu. We're going to go back one more. Ok. So now these are all the different modules we have access to. So we're going to go to auto gear box. Essentially transmission. Ignition is still on. It's going to reconnect. Ok. So now we've connected with the transmission control module. We'll go to vehicle maintenance. We hit Ok. And there right on top is reset adaptions. And we'll hit that. Then again it's going to go through and explain why you would do this and under what conditions. And then at the bottom of course there's your confirmation do you wish to reset ECU adaptions. We'll hit yes. And there you go. Adaptions have been reset successfully. So now we've done both engine and transmission, it didn't even take 5 minutes. So now we'll back up. We'll get back to the main menu. And then of course when you go to do this it will say really quit. We're going to back out of that. And at this point it is a reminder make sure you don't leave the dongle plugged into the diagnostic plug. And we'll hit Ok because we pulled it out. And that's it. That's basically a very easy thing to do. Especially with the iLAND and it's very important to do as you can see under certain repair conditions so that you know when you're done and you restart your vehicle it's going to run right. So, if you're going to get into repairs on your Discovery 2, again that's 1999 to 2004, and you find you need a tool that's going to be able to do the reset for adaptions just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can order your iLAND online at this link. And if you liked our how to video, and would like to see more you can go to our YouTube channel and subscribe and view all our different videos that we've done to help you keep your Land Rover in good order. So thank you for watching. And Rover on.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform a Service Interval Reset, a function that must be done on all 2006 and up Range Rovers and Land Rovers after an oil change service. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How To Use The iLAND App Service Interval Reset Demonstrated on 2016 Land Rover LR4. Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going cover some of the special functions that are available on the iLAND. We're going to do this as a series to help you understand how your iLAND works. In this particular case a lot of your later Land Rovers, and I'm going to say from 2006 and up, the majority of them require a tool to be able to access and reset your service interval, after you've done an oil change on that so that your reminder on the dash comes on at the proper time. So I want to show you how to get into that. Right now we're in a 2016 LR4. The function is going to be very similar throughout the entire line, the LR3, LR4, the Sports, the Full Size. Some of the other models like the LR2 whatnot will be a little different. Some of those have their own function built into the dash. But for most of them you're going to need a tool and the iLAND will do just that. So we've got our phone on. Now remember now this is on an iphone. If you have an Android you're going to have just the single iLAND icon. But if you have an iphone, you're going to end up getting 2. This one with the blue dot you are not going to use. You stay with the original icon for just iLAND. No blue dot. So essentially we're going to hit that. We've plugged in our dongle underneath. We see the blue light. We now we're powered up. We're going to turn the ignition on so that the iLAND or the dongle can communicate with the modules. So we're in an LR4. We'll hit that. And of course you have your garage disclaimers. We'll just hit accept and go through on that. So essentially now we've gone on. Now if I back this up, because this is not the screen you're going to end up on. You're going to end up on this screen. And what you go do, you can do a full system test. Just a quick test. And what that will do is run through all the modules that are communicable through the network. And the ones that come up in red are going to have faults. You want to investigate those while you're in there, to take a quick look at it. But for this purpose and for this video we'll go to Power Train Control Module. It's going to hook up and connect. You're going to see your different functions that are available. We'll hit special functions. Now at the top you're going to see service interval reset. For the gas engine and basically US and north american spec vehicles that's what we're going to use. Oil counter reset is strictly for the diesels. And that's going to essentially be overseas, european. So we're going to hit service interval reset. We know you have the ignition on. Make sure all our dash lights are on. Resetting service intervals, press ok to continue. And it's going to communicate with the module. And it's going to reset that back for the specified mileage. So there it is. It's reset. It's complete. Ignition state. We're going to turn it off. It's asking us to turn it off. Now it's asking us to turn it on, and that's basically setting it up and syncing it basically into the power train control module. Turned it on. Now it's going to say clear fault memory. Actually because we have a fault on there we don't want to clear it. We want to go back and be able to look at it. So we're going to hit no at this point. If you had no fault codes then you can hit yes and it will just continue and go about. So again it's asking trouble codes clear reset aborted. That's ok. Set ignition switch to off. And then we're back to our special functions. And then we can have that arrow in the top left. We hit that. And that will put us back on to our choices. This is just taking a little bit longer. There we go. Then we go back to LR4. Hit accept. Make sure ignition is on. So now if you want to go back through it and actually what it did is actually it did clear the code so it had to do with something with the reset. So as I said you can go through your others. And that will be shown in other videos as we go along. So for now we've basically shown had to set up and reset your service interval. And what that is is just simply a reminder it will let you know when your next oil change is due. And sometimes we lose track of that. And it's always good to get a reminder. So when you're ready to order a tool that will help you do the service interval reset and more, you can just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order the tool online. And if you like our how to videos you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and get more information. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
A common problem on 2006 - 2009 Range Rover Sport (Supercharged and non-Supercharged) and some of the LR3s, is that you may hear a light rattle in the front end as you ride straight over small bumps in the road at lower speed. Using a 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged with Directional Stability Control (DSC) to demonstrate, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, diagnose the cause of the rattling noise in front end as possibly being one of two causes, worn rubber bushings in the sway bar , or old sway bar link . Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Front End Rattling? How To Diagnose A Bad Sway Bar Bushing or Bad Sway Bar Link, Demonstrated on 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged with DSC (Directional Stability Control)Hi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a something that seems to show up quite often on the 2006 and later Sports. 2006 to 2009, some of the LR3s. This is a Supercharged 2007 Sport. And this has DSC, which is the directional stability control or hydraulic sway bars in it. And what happens is a lot of people call me and they'll ask about the situation where they're going down the road and on light bumps, in a straight ahead motion. You hear a little rattle come from the front end. Not so much when turning. Not so much at higher speed. And what happens is over a period of time, what you have are 2 rubber bushings that support that sway bar, and hold it against the frame. Well, the rubber dries out. Especially in areas where we're subject to a lot of salt in the wintertime. It all takes effect. So, a good way to find out if that is the cause of the issue. You have 2 things that could possibly cause it. You have a sway bar link here. Which you can place a bar underneath this control arm and lift on the sway bar right here. And if you see lose motion either on this lower joint or the upper joint, then that's telling you that the link is worn out and it's time to replace. The other, which is really the more common, is the bushings that support this sway bar and hold it to the frame. These are supposed to be a good, tight fit. So what happens is if you're able to grab the bar and move it in and out, like so, and you can actually hear that bushing squawk a little bit as I'm pulling it. That's telling you that those bushings have compressed, and they're no good. And they're no longer able to hold that sway bar tight. So when you hear that little rattle, this gives you an idea of where to look and then once you've decided whether it's a bushing or the sway bar link, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Learn how you can install a trailer wiring kit on your Range Rover (P38). With an exclusive trailer wiring kit that is specially-developed for Range Rover 4.0 and Range Rover 4.6 vehicles, getting more out of your Range Rover has never been easier. These kits seamlessly connect Rover wiring harness and supply to a standard 'Flat 4' North American spec plug.
9439B Trailer Wiring Kit For Range Rover 4.0 / 4.6 (1995 - 2002)Welcome to the Atlantic British Do It Yourself Video Series. Today we'll be showing you how to install a trailer wiring kit on Range Rover P38. Your first step will be to open the rear hatch window and tailgate, and locate the small access panel in the right rear corner of the load space area. Next, open the access panel and locate the white trailer plug with 5 wires attached to it. This plug connects to the plug on the trailer wiring box. You will connect this plug to the box later. Inside the access panel, locate the 2 inch grommet on the floor. The grommet should be located alongside a support beam. Remove the grommet, and using a knife or razor blade, cut a slot in the grommet to hold the conversion box wiring. Feed the trailer end wires and the wiring converter box plug through the grommet hole in the floor of the access panel. Route the wiring along the vehicle's undercarriage to the trailer hitch. Using the supplied nylon ties, secure the wiring behind the lower lip of the rear bumper. Make sure you position the wiring away from the end of the exhaust tailpipe. Slip the trailer end wiring from the box to the previous cut slot in the grommet. Next, snap the grommet back into the grommet hole on the inside floor of the access panel. It is easiest to do this by reaching under vehicle and around the inside corner of the bumper. Connect the harness box plug noted Tow Vehicle to the plug you noted in step 2 within the access panel area. Replace the access panel door. Test the harness with your trailer. Be sure to test your taillights, braking lights, turn signals and flashers. Finally, attach your plug cap to protect the exterior wiring plug from corrosion and the elements when you're not using your trailer.
1) Select Year
2020 2019 2018 2017 2016 2015 2014 2013 2012 2011 2010 2009 2008 2007 2006 2005 2004 2003 2002 2001 2000 1999 1998 1997 1996 1995 1994 1993 1992 1991 1990 1989 1988 1987 1986 1985 1984 1983 1982 1981 1980 1979 1978 1977 1976 1975 1974 1973 1972 1971 1970 1969 1968 1967 1966 1965 1964 1963 1962 1961 1960 1959 1958 1957 1956 1955 1954 1953 1952 1951 1950 1949 1948
2) Select Model
Good service, fast shipping, good inventory
Gonzalo A.Miami, FL
8-6-20
Fast response, good products, good customer service.Great DIY videos.
Victor M.Monument, CO
8-5-20
Great Service, fair prices, excellent turn around, installed and work better than anticipated! Love the on YouTube video training!!
michael k.HICKORY, NC
8-5-20
Great shipping, parts in stock. Easy to find what I need.
Brad H.HUNTSVILLE, AL
8-4-20
The customer service I receive on the phone is first class, when I don't know exactly what I need to order the staff is very helpful.
Steve P.Chatsworth, CA
8-2-20
The ease of the website. And I found exactly what I was looking for in a very short period of time. The order process was a breeze too.
Gregory M.Providence Village , TX
7-31-20
Great advice and videos. Great selection of parts.
Tim B.McLean, VA
7-31-20
OEM parts. High quality parts at a reasonable price.
donald s.Winchester, VA
7-30-20
AB is my go-to source for Rover needs
Tim K.West Redding, CT
7-30-20
Wide variety of OEM and after market product, helpful sales people, quick shipping.
Dennis B.Torrance, CA
7-30-20
Shop by Vehicle
Shop by Category
Reviews from our Customers...
Previous Slide ◀︎Next Slide ▶︎
FAST Shipping! Call these Folks they have all the answers to your part installation.
-Bill M. (Boydton,VA)
Great customer service, very knowledgeable staff. Everyone I have worked with are Land Rover owners- which is a big help for knowing the vehicles.
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
FAST Shipping! Call these Folks they have all the answers to your part installation.
-Bill M. (Boydton,VA)
Great customer service, very knowledgeable staff. Everyone I have worked with are Land Rover owners- which is a big help for knowing the vehicles.
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
First slide details. Current Slide Second slide details. Third slide details. Fourth slide details.
Select Your Vehicle
