suspension videos
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will replace the EAS air suspension with our coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This kit also fits and is the same install process for the Land Rover LR3. Doug will then go over the installation of the EAS Re-flash module to remove dashboard codes and warning errors.
Kit#: L319SRK-OMEHL Install Coil Spring Suspension Kit Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works for LR3) Hi I'm Doug. I'm the tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about a coil spring replacement kit that we have for the LR3's that is designed for LR3's now that every body's been adding steel bumpers and roof racks and additional weight to them that they find the original suspension really isn't designed for it. Or if you switch the coils and get the regular coil springs they're not heavy enough to hold the vehicle up. At least they're not going to give you the proper ride. So, what we have is a heavy duty set, which is our L319SRK-OMEHL. The OME representing Old Man Emu coil springs. These are a good heavy duty spring. And what these will do is unloaded it will actually raise the vehicle about 2 inches above its normal ride height. And give you a much higher loading capacity. Very nice kit, and essentially what you're going to get is 2 of these for the front. You can see by the size of the coils these are pretty massive. And these are definitely designed for heavy duty use. And the other would be 2 of the rears. And you can see even heavier yet. With a good shock absorber built in and a protective boot. You'll also get new nuts for the top of these where they install into the frame. So it's nice to have new hardware. And then you'll also get a reflash unit. So if you're converting over from the air suspension to the coil springs, so that you don't have all the warning lights and everything coming on. And basically works its way around the control module so you won't get all the lights and buzzers and everything else. So, that's essentially the kit, and the installation is pretty much the same as our other coil spring kits. But we're going to give you a little rundown and show you how to install it. All right, so, we're going to begin by doing the fronts. And you'll see that we've all ready taken the engine shield off. And that's just nothing more than the 4 ten millimeter nuts and the oil filler cap and that comes right out. The reason we're doing that is because we're going to access the inner nut on the 2 fronts from the top as opposed to trying to get at it from underneath. If you look at it from underneath you'll see it's almost impossible to get at.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
A brief overview of the Air-to-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits available for many Range Rover models. If this is something you have been thinking of installing on your Rover, watch this video to learn how to get started. Includes information on part 9520LBHDWB .
Air-To-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits For Range Rover VehiclesHi. I'm Chip French. I'm a salesman here at Atlantic British. And if you own a Range Rover you know the expense of maintaining your air suspension system. We've come up with a couple different coil spring conversions for all Range Rovers from 1993 up to the 2006 model. This one here is for the P38, for the vehicle that was built from 1995 to 2002. We use custom made springs, where other companies may use a spring from a different vehicle to fit the Rover, ours are custom bent. We also have machined perches where the springs go on, where other companies use a stamp steel product. We add new bump stops and also the override harness, which will bypass the error messages on your computer. It is very simple to plug in, instead of having to rewire the ECM, which could be expensive if not done correctly. We also have these available in a heavy duty set-up for some vehicles. Check us out on the website or just give us a call.
If your Range Rover L322 4.4 2003 - 2005 has an air suspension failure, you may have found out all ready that replacing the air springs and resetting the system could cost thousands of dollars. You may want to consider switching to a once-and-done conversion to coil springs with a quality coil-over suspension kit (item # L322SRK-C). The kit constrains a unique and exclusive EAS Override Module that makes conversion to coil springs seamless and error-free! This video shows a portion of the kit installation - using a spring compressor to mount the coil springs in place. Complete, printable instructions for this kit are available here.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part One (Extra) Now that we have added a raised suspension for off-road use, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the standard brake hose on our project D2. Doug then upgrades with and installs our exclusive performance braided stainless steel brake hose (Part # ABP218L ) for Discovery Series II with raised suspension. Doug will also demonstrate how to bleed the brake system using the Hawkeye Diagnostic Tool "Power Bleed" Function. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
As a Land Rover owner, are you confused over terms like "ACE", "DSC" or "Vehicle Dynamic Suspension"? In many ways, these terms all refer to the same basic system, even though Land Rover has decided to change the terminology by vehicle model and year. Listen to our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug, as he explains the various terms and what they mean in relation to Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009 and Range Rover Sport, 2010 - 2013.
Is There A Difference Between The Directional Stability Control (DSC) System, The ACE System or The Dynamic Response System?Hi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. I want to do a short video simply explaining what is ACE. There's been some confusion in the past, and we've had some customers call and wanted to know so we've actually done some previous videos on how to identify whether your vehicle has ACE and exactly what is the system. Now if you have a Discovery 2 and it has ACE, which we did show in the video how to identify that. Essentially all they used was a 2 way hydraulic ram on a split sway bar to help control the vehicle on cornering, to help force a leveling. Uses ACE fluid. Uses a valve block on the passenger side underneath the vehicle. And if you actually look on a previous video we've actually shown you how to do some basic maintenance on that system by replacing the filter and the fluid. Now later on they came out with a similar system in the Range Rover Sports. And that was essentially called Active Stabilization System, or we've even seen it described as Directional Stability Control and even some analyzers have called it Active Roll Control. Essentially they are all the same thing. And what they did was they got away from the 2 way split ram and got into an integral hydraulic motor built into the sway bars, but essentially control the same way. And that's all that ACE is. It's hydraulically controlled sway bars that help level your vehicle on cornering. Again the procedure for the maintenance on the Sport will be the same as the Discovery which is simply filter replacement and some fluid. I hope that clarifies what ACE is. If you have any further questions you can contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to point you in the right direction on what you need to do the maintenance on your ACE system. Just a footnote we wanted to put in. You may have also heard the term Vehicle Dynamic Suspension. Doesn't apply to the Land Rover Sport. It is another system used in the full size Land Rover and it utilizes the air suspension to help reduce body roll. There is no hydraulic roll bar as there is in the Sport and D2. So we just wanted to make sure we had that clear, that you may have heard that term, but it does not apply to the Sport, nor does it apply to the D2. That should just about wrap that up. Wait a minute, wasn't this a Defender?
Warning: This video contains serious LR3 off-road capability on display. Does your costly LR3 air suspension got you down?
Interested in a once-and-done coil spring conversion?
Look no further than our Heavy Load Air Suspension To Coil Spring Conversion Kit With Original Equipment Struts & Springs (L319SRK-OE) . Features OE struts and springs that are original equipment on North American V6 LR3 vehicles. Kit also includes our proprietary EAS Reflash Management Software. The reflash software comes in an easy diagnostic connector and eliminates dashboard warning lights and errors seen when removing your stock Land Rover air suspension (EAS).
…But don't take our word for it, check out our coil-spring kit in action with this LR3 off-the-grid video in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! To learn more about the specs of the suspension kit, and to order, just click here .
Out with the air bags. In with the coils. Atlantic British Coil Conversion Kit. Original Equipment Coils. Original Equipment Struts. Traction Control Enabled. Hill Descent Control Enabled. Bomb-Proof Reliability. Zero Maintenance. Stability Control Enabled. The Go-Anywhere Suspension Solution.
Warning: This video contains serious LR3 off-road capability on display. Does your costly LR3 air suspension got you down?
Interested in a once-and-done coil spring conversion?
Are you looking for a trail-rated solution that that boosts your LR3 with 2 inches of lift and heavy duty springs from Old Man Emu?
Look no further than our Heavy Load Air Suspension To Coil Spring Conversion Kit With Atlantic British Struts & Old Man Emu Springs (L319SRK-OMEHL) . It adds 2 inches of lift and features new custom struts from Atlantic British and our proprietary EAS Reflash Management Software. The reflash software comes in an easy diagnostic connector and eliminates dashboard warning lights and errors seen when removing your stock Land Rover air suspension (EAS).
…But don't take our word for it, check out our coil-spring kit in action with this LR3 off-the-grid video in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! For more details on this suspension kit, and to order, just click here .
Out with the air bags. In with the coils. Atlantic British Coil Conversion Kit. ARB Old Man Emu Coils. Atlantic British Struts. Traction Control Enabled. Hill Descent Control Enabled. Bomb-Proof Reliability. Zero Maintenance. Stability Control Enabled. The Go-Anywhere Suspension Solution.
Warning: This video contains serious LR3 off-road capability on display. Does your costly LR3 V8 4.4L air suspension got you down?
Interested in a once-and-done coil spring conversion?
Look no further than our Standard Load Air Suspension To Coil Spring Conversion Kit With Atlantic British Struts & Springs (L319SRK-A) . Features new custom struts from Atlantic British and our proprietary EAS Reflash Management Software. The reflash software comes in an easy diagnostic connector and eliminates dashboard warning lights and errors seen when removing your stock Land Rover air suspension (EAS).
…But don't take our word for it, check out our coil-spring kit in action with this LR3 off-the-grid video in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! For more details on this suspension kit, and to order, just click here .
Out with the air bags. In with the coils. Atlantic British Coil Conversion Kit. Atlantic British Coils. Atlantic British Struts. Traction Control Enabled. Hill Descent Control Enabled. Bomb-Proof Reliability. Zero Maintenance. Stability Control Enabled. The Go-Anywhere Suspension Solution.
Get a complete tour underneath an LR3 V8 4.4L. Watch Jim as he identifies the various components of the LR3, identifying the air suspension compressor, emergency brake actuator, oil filter and drain plug, front differential, transfer case and shift motor placement and some parts of the air suspension system. Please note that the LR3 undercarriage is identical to the Range Rover Sport.
This covers vehicles from 2005 - 2009. Over time, the air strut will dry out and cause minor leaks that will require maintenance to the air suspension system. While we offer the popular coil spring conversion kits for these vehicles, some Rover customers prefer the air ride--one of the reasons they drive a Rover to begin with. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains removing and replacing the front and rear air strut assemblies demonstrated on 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Additionally, Doug will show you how to access the air suspension system to depressurize/deflate the bags prior to changeover using a diagnostic tool. Our current diagnostic tool that handles this is the iLAND Diagnostic Tool and runs on your mobile phone or tablet. This replacement service is also similar on the Range Rover Sport or Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009, along with the LR3, 2005 - 2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will go over the installation of the re-flash module to remove dashboard codes after installation of our coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This same install process also applies to the Land Rover LR3.
Part #:7980 EAS Reflash Module Installation Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works On LR3) So when you're done converting your Sport or LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you're going to need to do what's referred to as a reflash, or inline filter. Basically to fool the system so that it will turn off all the warning lights, and the bells and whistles and everything. And everything else will operate. What it also does is it also maintains Terrain Response so you don't lose that. Which is nice. The only thing you do lose is the ability to raise and lower the vehicle at will. So, essentially what you'll be receiving is an EAS reflash unit. Refer to this. it's the 7980. It comes with the box. You'll also have a plug in pigtail. It's got 6 wires off of it that will need to be wired in. We're going to show you how to do that in a few minutes. And that's essentially it. And then through a small process you'll be able to reflash this unit so that you'll be able to drive away without having all the warning lights on. So we're going to start off with showing you how to access and where the location of the right lower control module is because the wiring going into that module is where we're going to be cutting into, and splicing into to make this work. All right, so we have the vehicle started. And you can see the warning lights you have on. Red brake light. The ABS light. The steering angle sensor. The suspension light. And all those are related, especially on these newer vehicles with these networks. They all talk to each other. So, now you've seen the lights. Now we're going to show you the Terrain Response, which the lights are out because it also sees a fault there. All right, so, here's your Terrain Response selector on the center console. And you'll see I'm going to move this bright light away just for a second, and you can see there are no indicator lights on that. So you've essentially lost Terrain Response. And we're going to go through the reflash and get that back. So to get started we're going to need a few basic tools. A straight blade screw driver. Phillips screw driver. I would prefer you use a nylon trim tool as opposed to metal. And then a quarter inch drive ratchet extension. This is a 10 millimeter deep swivel head. You can go with a regular deep with a shorter extension. This is just the set up I like to use. And an 8 millimeter deep quarter inch drive socket. So you start off with taking a straight blade and we're just going to stick that underneath that. This is your foot rest. This pops right off. Now, what that does is that exposes to 10 millimeter nuts that are going to hold this foot pad in place. So we grab our quarter ratchet. And the reason I go with the deep is because you've got probably about 3/4 of an inch of stud past the nut, so a regular socket will be a little to shallow to get all the way on the nut to get it off. So we've got one. Also, 1 more tool you're going to need is going to be a T25 torx driver. There's a torx head bolt that holds the hood release level on.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Learn the differences between BOSCH and GEMS V8 engines found in Land Rover Discovery I, Discovery II and Range Rover models. Jim shows how to determine whether your Land Rover is equipped with an ACE suspension. The video also shows how to change a pollen filter on a Range Rover and highlights key vehicle components.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, talk you through the replacement of the original equipment rear bushing (or you can use the optional polybush kit , which we show in this video) of the lower control arm suspension. Access to this bushing is granted by removing the entire lower control arm assembly. This is a common replacement for Range Rover Sport 2006-2009, or LR3 2005-2009, and affects steering stability when the bushing becomes old and worn out.
Lower Control Arm Suspensions: Rear Bushing Replacement On LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a very common issue that we find on the LR3s and the Sports. It is the lower control arm suspension. The rear bushing likes to soften up, which creates a lot of movement in the control arm, to the point where even stepping on the brake you can actually hear a bang noise coming from underneath. And what that does is throws off your alignment, creates tire wear instability on steering, overall just does not make the vehicle comfortable to drive. Also can be rather expensive in the end, especially if you're buying tires on a regular basis. So what we're going to do is show you how to remove the lower control arm and then you have the option of either replacing the control arm with either with original equipment bushings or we also offer a polybush, which we're also going to show you how to install those. So, what we have essentially have done is the vehicle is up in the air, tires off. We've taken the front brakes off, because we're also doing brakes on this vehicle. But getting the brakes out of the way does make the job easier. And makes the knuckle assembly much lighter to handle. We're not going to take the knuckle out.Now ideally when you get the vehicle back together, if you have access to a drive on ramp, or if you have room to work underneath, what you should do is get the vehicle down on all 4, set your height at normal ride height, and then you loosen the 2 pivot bolts that we just installed and your shock spring bolts. Let it neutralize. Let it settle down. And then re-tighten them. That will basically set all the bushings in their neutral positions. And it will ride a lot better. It will also eliminate the possibility of any squeaks. If you should have one of the bushings stressed because we tightened it when the axles were fully down. That's pretty much it. So if you are going to either change over your lower control arm or you want to install polybushings, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLand Diagnostic App to perform a ride height calibration, a function that must be done on Range Rover Sport, LR3 and late model Land Rovers after replacement of the height sensor or the air suspension bags, to re-level the vehicle. The wheel center cap that Doug uses is part # LR089424G. iLand, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How To Use the iLAND App Ride Height Calibration For All Model Rover Vehicles - Demonstrated on the Range Rover Sport. Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on one of the functions of the new iLAND. Now we're in a 2006 Sport. You can basically do the same thing with both the 2006 to 2009 LR3 and the Full Size. And what we're going to do is show you how to do a height calibration. Any time you replace a height sensor or air bags, you usually need to do a recalibration to re-level the vehicle. And the iLAND is capable of doing that. We're also going to show you a little trick to get around normally the use of a tool that's used by Land Rover at the dealerships to set these up. It's sort of an expensive tool. And if you're just a do it yourselfer and you're just going to be doing this on occasion, we'll show you how to get around with a nice cheap trick. Alright, so, the next step is we're going to plug in our dongle. We're going to make sure we see the blue LED that it's powered up. We'll turn on our smartphone. Now just as a note. On your Android systems you're going to have a single icon which is fine. You click on that. If you're using am iphone or ipad you're going to have 2 icons. One with a blue dot. You do not use that icon. Use the iLAND icon that does not have the blue dot. Otherwise if you click on the second one you're going to get no connection. So let's go ahead and do that. Get set up. Alright, so we're plugged in. We're going to pull up our first screen. Now just a reminder the reason ours are all red is this is the Pro version. This has access to all the vehicles. Now if you have just a single vehicle set up on yours, whether it be an LR3, Sport, whatever, just that one is going to be set up in red. So we are in a 2006 Sport. So we're going to go Range Rover Sport. And we're going to accept all what they call the garage disclaimers. We are not showing an updated version so we're okay. We have the latest and greatest. And we'll hit confirm. So now we'll be connecting to our Bluetooth dongle. As I said we're in a 2006, so we'll go with that. And we have a 4.2 Supercharged so we're going to choose that. So now what it will do is I'll need to install the key. And turn the ignition on so that it can communicate with the modules. And we're going to go down to system selection. And what we want to do is find the ride level control module. Ride level control module. And we're going to go to special functions. And as you can see we can do height calibration. We can also do deflate and re-enable suspension in case of changing over air bags and other services. You can see some of the functions that this can do. So what we're going to do in this case is we're going to go to height calibration.Now we've gotten to a window. It will take us to a procedure where it will do a complete vehicle diagnostic trouble code clear. Asks if you want to continue. Obviously we want to clear any codes that we may have incurred using this process. It says switch off. Switch is off. And we'll switch on. Control module procedure completed successfully. So we've cleared all the fault codes out of that. It tells you to turn the key off. And that's it. We've done a height calibration on our vehicle. And we're ready to roll down the road. So now you've seen another good function that can become very handy for anybody doing a air suspension repair on either the Sport, LR3 or the Full Size. And this is 2006 to 2009. You also have the same function for the 2010 and higher vehicles as well. So when you're ready to do a air suspension repair and you know you're going to need to do a height calibration the iLAND is going to do it for you. Watch you simply do is you can call anyone of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or what you can do is click on this link and you can order the part via online. And if you like our videos, and you want to learn more about your Land Rover and how to repair it, you can simple go and subscribe to our YouTube channel. So we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part One Nowadays you can find a good used and affordable Discovery Series II for $3,500 - 5K. Add another $3K - 5K and you can outfit your Discovery II for off-road in no time. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part One of our video how-to series, as he upgrades and installs the 2" lift suspension of our project D2 with Terrafirma Shocks and Springs Kit (TFD2SUSPKIT ), Terrafirma Shock Towers (TF534 ) and Terrafirma Steering Damper (TF802 ). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
ARB talks about the new ARB601 Digital Tire Inflator. ARB manufactures Bull Bars, winch compatible replacement front bumpers, ARB rear bumpers with tire carriers, ARB roof racks, ARB Air Locker locking differentials and covers, ARB Rock Sliders, side rails and steps, ARB Freezer Fridges, ARB Air Compressors, ARB Snatch Blocks, ARB Snatch Straps / tow straps, ARB Tree Savers, ARB rooftop tents and awnings. ARB is also the manufacturer of Old Man Emu (OME) Customized Suspension Systems and is the exclusive distributor for IPF Lighting Products and Safari Snorkels in North, Central and South America. For more information, please visit ARB601 . Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
This is a new ARB 601 tire inflator. A lot of features and benefits you might miss at first glance. It's actually a year of R&D; went into this to make it as good as it could be. I would say it's probably the leader in the category. Looking at the gauge it uses two triple A batteries. Give you about 200 hours of use out of there. It has several indicators, bar and PSI being a couple we'd use here, battery indicator on the front. It's backlit so at night you can see it. One of the features I really like is the long braided hose. This is really useful when you hook on to your valve stem you actually stand up to pressurize your tires or to let tire pressure down. You don't actually have to stay crouched. There's a button on the side here you can use for letting air out of the tire. All cast features, robust paddle here and on the end a very aggressive Chuck to hang on to that belt. If you like to learn more about this unique tire inflator please click on the link below.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six (Extra 1) Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 1) of our video how-to series, as he installs the Baja Rack Jerry Can Holder on our project D2. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 1):Installing Jerry Can Holder To Baja Rack (BAJAFCH)Hi I'm Doug, you're tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. Now if you have been following the project, we've done a video showing the cargo rack for the Baja Rack for the top of the D2. And we mentioned that we were also going to be adding some accessories to it. One of the first accessories we're going to do - and this is a very popular item - is the Jerry Can holder. Now this unit can be mounted on either an open grid top like this one or it will even work on a mesh top cargo carrier or you can even use them on any of those mesh based add ons that will hook up to your trailer hitch. You've seen them mounted on the back of vehicles, it just simply looks like a tray. But this will mount on those as well. And it's a very easy installation, there's just several nuts and bolts. And what you have is a base bracket that can be mounted right on top. They give you the 2 clamps that will grab underneath and grab the side rail along with 4 additional clamps that grab underneath the cross rails. And they do a nice job because they also put foam inserts on all the brackets so they're not going to scratch up the metal on your cargo rack. You get all your hardware and they even give you a tube of grease so that you grease up the bolts when you put it together because this is exposed to the elements if you ever want to change its position or move it, with the grease bolts it's going to come out a lot easier. So it's nice that they put that thought into it. So this is a relatively easy installation. We have this on the ground so we can show you basically the location. Something you want to consider is that when you put a cargo rack on top you're obviously going to have a ladder in the back on the vehicle. So you don't want to put this where it's going to be blocking your access to the ladder. So in this case, the Discovery 2, the ladder is going to be coming up in the rear left corner, so we're going to mount this bracket over here so it's out of the way and you still have full access to the rack. So we're going to bolt this down and we're going to show you what it looks like completed. All right, so now we have the bracket mounted up. What I did is I'm going to show you on the bottom how the brackets looks. You have 4 cross braces underneath and along with the 2 clips that bolt on that grab around the side rail. So between the 4 mounts and the 2 add ons that grab the rail, that bracket's not going anywhere. That's a good solid hook up. So now we're going to set this down. And we're going to show you how to mount the jerry cans. All right, so here's the top view of bracket and how it's going to lay on top of the cargo carrier. And then we're going to take our first jerry can and set that in just like so. We'll clip this on. That will hold that in place. And then the second can. And we recommend when you put the cans in, obviously your open area, your opening is going to be up and not down. Lay our top brace on. And then we just thread in that large screw. You don't have to crush it. Just get it snug so that there's no free play or moving around. We'll set that in place. And then there's a safety precaution. They also give you a large washer and we put in a clip to make sure that can't back off all the way. So there you are. Your jerry cans are in place. Nice and secure. Not going anywhere. And it definitely adds to the look of the cargo. So when you're ready to add you jerry can adapter to your Baja Rack, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six (Extra 2) Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 2) of our video how-to series, as he installs the Hi-Lift Bracket to the Baja Roof Rack on our project D2. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 2): Installing Hi-Lift Jack Bracket To Baja Rack (BAJAHILBRK)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British and welcome back to Project D2. And in this video we're going to show you the mounting brackets for the Baja Rack that we installed on an earlier video so we can put a Hi Jack on top of that, or actually the side of the rack. No these things can actually be invaluable if you are doing any rock climbing or hard area 4 wheeling because you can get yourself stuck. These will get you out. And it's nice to have one mounted on the side of the rack so you can have easy access to it. Now again, like I've said, we've all ready installed the jerry cans. You can refer back to that video. And we have more coming. So again, these brackets are very easy to install. Should only take several minutes. This particular kit all you need is a 9/16th wrench, a socket and ratchet and you can have them installed within 15, 20 minutes. And it's easy enough where one bracket is going to sit right up against the side of the rail. You have a back bracket and what's nice about it too is they've actually put a heavy foam insulator on both sides so that it doesn't scratch up your Baja rack. That just lays in place. We have 2 bolts that go through. We're going to tighten this one and then we have another bracket, identical to it, that mounts down the other end. And that one we're going to leave a little bit loose. And we're going to test fit the hi jack to it so that it lines up with the holes that are in the frame of the hi jack. We'll slide it into position. Lock it down. And essentially at that point you are done. So we're going to mount these up and then we're going to show you how these look when we're done. Alright, now essentially this is your finished product. You only had to install 4 bolts. We have this bracket here. We've got this bracket here and we've left this a little bit loose so that we can maneuver it so that it will line up with the holes. And then we test fit the hi jack to make sure that those line up and now we can just tighten 2 bolts on this end. And then what you're going to do to finish the job to hold it in place. You've got the 2 wing brackets, these are also foam lined so they don't scratch up your hi jack. And that's going to go there with a washer. And a wing nut. And we'll just run that on finger tight, but still get it tight enough where it's going to hold it in place and keep it from rattling around. And then as a safety precaution, put the pins on so god forbid the bolt should back off, the pin is going to keep you from losing your hi jack on the road. So essentially there you are. So when you're ready to add a hi lift onto your off road vehicle, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he walks you through the intuitive iCarSoft LR II system. This video showcase the V.1.0 model tool. The latest version is the V.2.0 Diagnostic Tool and is very similar in form and function to V.1.0 (with a few more functions, bells and whistles!) iCarsoft Multi-system Scanners support full system diagnosis for Land Rover vehicles. They enable technicians and Do-It-Yourselfers to accurately diagnose complex problems. Multi-system Scanner supports full system diagnosis. It’s a powerful diagnostic tool.
An Overview Using The LR II Multi-System Diagnostic Tool by iCarsoft (LR-II) For Land Rover & Jaguar Vehicles (2nd Generation)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going to do is touch base on a diagnostic tool that we carry in our line. The iCarSoft LR II. Now this is a tool that's come out that's specifically designed to access Land Rover modules, and not just your OBD II, but can also get into ABS, your air suspension if you have the later models that are equipped with that, actually a number of modules depending on which vehicle or which Land Rover you're working on. So just to give you basics, we've got this unit plugged in. This is the screen that's going to come up. And this is with the ignition key on. You're going to let the vehicle go through its self test. Most of the newer Land Rover vehicles go through an initial self test. Only takes a few seconds. We're plugged in, and we have power. Now before we get into the modules, I just want to give you an idea of some of the other capabilities of this. If we scroll over to settings, you have an up down side to side arrows. We'll hit okay. And with this you can change the language, the unit of measure, and even turn the beeper on and off. So say we go to unit of measure, and hit okay. You can either go to metric or imperial. We can back out of that. As far as language you can see it actually will translate to a number of different languages. So we're going to leave it up in English. And we hit escape to back out. And we do that again. Now on the help side, this gives you a lot of information. First line is going to tell you initially give you the location of your diagnostic link connector is located. Then below it we have the DTC library, which you can type in the codes that you're getting and it will give you the definition. It will look that unit up. We'll hit escape. What it will also do is explain abbreviations. So when you get into some of the live data, you're going to see explanations or abbreviations. So say we go to ECT, we want to find out what that is. It will tell you it's a coolant temperature sensor. It will tell you how it's normally displayed. Here it will run from minus 40 to 215 degrees Celsius. Or minus 40 to 419 degrees Fahrenheit. And again it will tell you many of the diesel engines, they don't include this sensor. So, again it gives you good information on what you're looking at. So we'll hit escape and back out of that. And we'll hit that again. Tool information is simply going to tell you what software you have in here. Serial Number of the unit. Registration Code which you may need later on if you're going to do updates. Which you can do on these without having to send these in.Heating and ventilation. Basically run on down the line. So when you just get to the one that you're looking for. Let's look at transfer box. Again we'll look at, okay. And essentially this is going to give you versions. We'll scroll down to data stream. And basically just on that particular transfer case there's 4 different functions you can view. So this gives you an idea essentially of what this is capable of doing. This does not do any programming. But it will help you keep you from chasing your tail trying to figure out what's going on with your Land Rover without having to spend a lot of money on parts that maybe you don't really need. This tool will at least help you work your way in and pinpoint what the problem is, or at least give you the fault codes which, based on the technology on today's vehicles you need to, otherwise you'll just be chasing your tail trying to figure out what's wrong with them. So, when you're in the market for a reader, and you'll find that this is very reasonably priced compared to what it will do, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to set you up with one of these. Thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 3) of our video how-to series, as he adds the Baja Rack Axe and Shovel Bracket to the Baja Roof Rack on our project D2. Please note the Shovel is sold separately as SLI515. Please refer questions and comments about this video to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 3): Installing Axe &Shovel Bracket To Baja Rack (BAJAAXSHBRCKT)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about another addition to our D2 Project, is the shovel. We've all ready got our hi jack, and we've got our Jerry Cans. But you can't go off roading without a shovel. You get in some soft sand, some dirt, whatever. This is a very handy tool to have. It's an easy mount. It's just 2 brackets through each of the side mounts. And they are going to hang exactly like the hi jack mount that we did earlier. And it's just a matter of being pinched onto the side rails of the cargo carrier. And as you can see they do the same with this. You have a nice dense foam insulation on all the corners and the areas where it makes contact with the cargo carrier so it doesn't scratch it all up. You've got all the hardware to install. And they also give you a little pack of grease. They recommend you put a little grease on all the threads as you put this together. So should you ever want to take it back out they're not going to be rusted in place. Especially if you live in areas where there is a lot of salt laid down over the course of the Winter. It's not hard for this stuff to rust up. So it's good to have a little protection on the threads. So what we're going to do is show you how to mount this up, put the shovel in place and get started. All right, so, to begin with, we're going to take 1 bolt, put a washer on the bolt. Set this down right here for now. Then we put our bolt through our back bracket. Set that in place right like so. And what I like to do is set this up so that you'll see that this is manufactured at an angle so that the stud is slightly up, which makes it easier when you go to put things on. It will stay in place, as opposed to putting this upside down and pointing down where everything can drop out. So then we'll run another washer. And we'll put a nut on there. And these are a nylon stop nut, which means you don't need a lock washer. They'll actually lock themselves in place once you tighten them down. Then we'll take the bottom bolt. That through. Washer. Now you'll also notice, you're getting a good look at the bracket right here, you've got 2 areas to hold tools. Upper and a lower. So we're going to put the shovel in the upper. But you still end up with an extra opening on there so if you want to put an axe or another long tool, something else you want to bring along, you can lock that in there as well. So they give you that room to do that. So then we're just going to take 2 9/16th wrenches. I use a ratcheting box wrench and a regular box wrench to hold the head of the bolt. And we'll just run that in until it's good and tight. All right so, we've got our 2 brackets in place. They're locked down pretty good. We're going to put the shovel in the top part. I kind of like to do that because should this get out of my hand or whatnot we've got the 2 studs to sort of catch it. So we're just going to set that there. Put the 1st bracket on. Flat washer. And a big wing nut. Again you want to put some of that grease on the threads. Because obviously of you are out in the woods and you haven't moved your shovel in a while, and these threads rust up you are going to have a hard time getting the shovel off. So a little grease on the threads definitely makes it easier. And we'll put the back one on. And like I said you can see you've got an opening left here when you can put another tool. It's nice having that option. Some guys like to carry an axe. If you have a long handled axe it will fit pretty well in there. And again you have the foam protection in there so it keeps it from getting the tool itself and the hangars and the storage rack from getting all scratched up. And then the safety pins. Just in case the wing nut backs out. It can't go any where. You're not going to lose the tool. So there you go. You've got the shovel mounted. We have our Jerry Cans. Our Project D2 is coming together pretty well. So when you are ready to add accessories to your storage rack on your D2 or any other Land Rover just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Four Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Four of our video how-to series, as he removes and replaces the weak sill finishers that stretch beneath the D2's doors. Doug then upgrades with and installs all-steel, body-mounted rock sliders, essential in protecting the doors and wings from bending or breaking under stress when off-roading. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Four: Installing Rock Sliders Part # 9596D2Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. Now we've got the steel bumpers, both front and rear which is going to give you better protection on your vehicle, front and rear. But what do we do about the sides? So what we're going to do is add a set of rock sliders on this. We're going to take the plastic trim that's underneath the doors on both sides of the vehicle and replace them with steel bars that are solidly mounted to the vehicle so that if you should come across a high rock or a high log, you make contact, you're not going to do any damage or break plastic trim. It's going to protect the vehicle. Plus it has the added feature where you have the holes already pre drilled so if you have your hi jack with you, you have a mount to put the hi jack on if you need to raise the vehicle and get it clear of an obstacle. This kit which is the 9596D2 is going to give you the 2 side sliders, the mounting brackets, and all the hardware. It's a relatively simple installation, it does take some time, probably anywhere from 2 to 4 hours, depending on your level of technical skill. But overall, if you're going to be taking these vehicles off road, you definitely want the extra protection. So we're going to show you how to mount these on the vehicle and take it from there. Now our first step is going to be obviously we need to take the plastic trim that sits in the door sills off first to get it out of the way. This is where we're going to be putting the rock sliders. Now what you have only holding this on is, up front there's a small stud with a 10 millimeter nut on it. And we're just going to put a ratchet with a deep socket. We'll take that off. More than likely that's going to snap off when you go to remove that. And so, not a big deal, you're not going to be using it in the installation of the rock sliders.1 bolt front. 1 bolt rear. And the rock slides are in. So let's get those in. Let's get those drilled out. Remember when you're drilling, especially if it's above your head always wear safety glasses. I've had enough steel taken out of my eyes. It's not worth it. Make sure you put them on. So, that's what's involved in putting rock sliders on the side of your D2. It definitely gives you a lot of extra protection. It certainly more stress and stability than what you're going to have with just the plastic sill panel. So if you really like to go out and do some serious 4 wheeling, these are an absolute necessity. Maybe it will take you 3, maybe 4 hours depending on your mechanical skill to be able to install them as we just did. Once they're on they're good and solid, they're going to give you plenty of protection. And again, you've got the cutouts already in there, so should you need the hi jack you've got a lift point. So, when you're ready to put the rock sliders on your D2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install mud flaps on a Land Rover LR4 2011-2012. Using Mud Flaps Part # VPLAP0017G , you will find the addition of the rear mud flaps helpful in diminishing road spray and grime on the rear window. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part#: VPLAP0017G Installing Rear Mud Flaps On LR4Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about rear mud flaps for the LR4s. The reason being is we're hearing more and more from LR4 owners that without the mud flaps, and especially in the wintertime, you get a lot of road salt and debris and whatnot kicks up from under the vehicle and it coats the rear window to the point where even the rear wiper won't clean it completely off. So we found with the installation of rear mud flaps it seems to knock that down quite a bit. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install mud flaps. It's very easy. And by doing so you can reduce a lot of that build up on the back window. So now what we're going to do before we install the kit, just give you an idea of what you get when you order your rear flaps. And essentially you get pre molded, factory flaps. These are designed to meet the contours of the body of the vehicle. The hardware you need to install. And of course instructions which you're going to find the first thing is when you read the instructions is the only tool you need to replace these is a Phillips screw driver. This is going to be a very easy job. We have this up on the lift, but you can sort of do the same just by starting your vehicle, putting it up on access, your high mode, your off road more for your air suspension which will give you plenty clearance and you can get a screw driver in there to change these over. So let's begin. We'll show you how to get them in. All right, so, you have one screw here directly on the bottom. And one screw right there. We're going to just simply take those two off. And then we have to get up underneath. We're going to show you there is one area where one of those blue plastic, I guess you could call it a nut, is going to get popped in. And from that point then you can just attach your bracket. So let's get this apart. All right, so just to give you an idea of where we're working next, you have the back muffler right here. Behind that we have the heat shield. What we're going to do is show you then we're going to move the heat shield back a little bit, show you and basically expose this square opening right here, which is where we're going to pop that little blue nut in place. One thing so we'll mention. The two small brackets that come with this kit are actually labelled left and right. And it makes a difference on how they go on. And these essentially will end up being attached to where we just put that blue nut on the part of the frame behind the heat shield. So the next step is we're going to take another one of these blue nuts. Going to pop that on there. Grab a screw. And essentially attach this now to that area and that will put this blue nut on the center right here for this third hole. So it's a little bit of a tight fit but you're going to hold that bracket so that it runs up against the back side of this inner arch. You can just fit a screw driver in there and we're just going to run that screw in and lock it down. All right so this is what your bracket is going to look like installed. Now what I'll probably suggest is back that screw off about half a turn and just enough to make this loose. Because you may not be lined up exactly in the hole right here on the facing. So what we're going to do is essentially leave that a little bit loose so we can maneuver it and then we'll put the fender flap on and once that's on we can come back, lock that down and push the heat shield back in place. Okay, so, now we're just simply going to take our mud flap, set it up in place there. And you'll probably put the top screw in place first. What we're going to do is we're going to reuse the two screws that we took out initially and put them back in the same areas that they came from. One up top. And one down below. And we're going to leave them loose. So that we can line up that center screw. Those two are in. And now we go to our last but not least. If you're doing this with the tire on this one screw, you may want to grab a little stubby screw driver so you can get in here. And run that in. All right, so here's our mud flap installed. Like I said we're just reusing the top screw, bottom screw and then just the one add on bracket with the center screw. Easy install. And we'll just do the same to the other side. And really within a short period of time we have mud flaps. Which will actually as I said earlier, greatly reduce the amount of dirt build up on your back windows on your LR4. So, when youre ready to put back mud flaps on your LR4, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order them online. And if you like our videos, and you find them helpful, you can also go to our YouTube site and subscribe to that, and end up getting more helpful videos to help you maintain your Land Rover. So thanks we thank you for watching and Rover on.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an Android device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the Android device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On Android Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more:checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so we're going to show you how to set up your new iLAND on an Android system. And essentially what will happen is when you get your Android tool, you're also going to get a set up sheet similar to this that's going to basically take you right through. This is an easy quick start guide. And what we'll start with is, you're going to turn your phone on. And we'll get on the screen. Now where you would go is you would go to your play store, your Google play store on your Android system. And then this will essentially put you there. It will have a search on top. And just put in iLAND diagnostics. And it will put you on this window. And we've all ready installed, but normally this would, this box on the left going to tell you install, hit that, let it do its thing. And then essentially you go back. And you will look for your icon right on your screen. So we'll hit that. We'll go back on that. And it's going to put you on the screen here. In fact let's back this up one. It's going to give you a screen that's going to essentially look like you're going to log in. But you haven't developed your registration yet. So down here, just below the log in box, you'll see sign up. We'll hit that. And then what it does now is put you on a screen. You're going to enter in your email address. This is the address that will be designated for this phone so once you enter it it becomes basically a permanent address. So we're going to do that. And we're going to go to the next screen. So you've entered your email address. The next screen you get is going to be verification. It's going to ask you to enter your received verification number which is right here. And we'll just punch that in. And then we're also going to set a password in here and it states 6 to 20 characters, doesn't say anything else about capitals or letters or numbers or whatnot. So just 6 to 20 characters will be enough for an adequate password. So now you've entered that. You're going to hit done. So the next screen now for the complete the info, this is a register this under your name, so your going to enter your first name, last name and zip code of where you live. So after entering your name and your zip code and you hit done, it's going to put you at one point it is going to tell you to pick a vehicle, but before it does, if there's any downloads, or upgrades available on this particular veh, on this particular set up, it will automatically set you up and sure enough, here we are, and we actually have a download available, so we're going to hit download. Let it do the upgrade and then we can get into picking our vehicles. Now, in case when you do finish your registration and whatnot, and there isn't a download or an upgrade available on that, at the time you'll get this window, it will just simply tell you sign up succeeded. And it will tell you to activate, welcome, to activate your dongle and you will have more functions. I'm going to hit that. Now it's going to ask for the serial number and the activation code which you will receive in the dongle box when you get your new iLAND. And this will come with your iLAND diagnostic tool. And there will be a product serial number, and then on this side the private / confidential which will be the verification number. You'll need to open up and underneath will be the verification number. And that's what this is asking for now. So we'll type in those 2 numbers. All right. So at this point now, you're going to get the screen that will ask you to choose your vehicle. Being that this unit is all ready set up for pro, it's all ready set up for all Land Rover vehicles, if you purchased your iLAND for a single vehicle. Of course now you choose your vehicle now, say either Range Rover, Discovery, whatever your vehicle is. Once you choose that it's locked in and you cannot change that. That remains constant on the vehicle. That's all you're going to have. So at this point now you've downloaded the app, you have the app, you have the vehicle choice, so now we're going back up to Bluetooth and link you up with the dongle. So when you get on your Bluetooth screen. First you're going to go to settings. You go to Bluetooth. You're going to look for available devices. You'll hit that and what it will do is a search. And then it will pop up the serial number on your dongle. And then at that point just tap that and it will pair it up. Now that we're paired, we have our app done, we can go back to our main screen. You see our iLAND and again I'm going to spell it out - it's i-l-a-n-d. There's no s in there. And go hit on the app. And basically we can now hook up to any vehicle. The first time you go into your vehicle, it's going to give you what they call workshop warnings. And these are basically just safety items that they want you to be aware off. And you'll hit accept. And then a warning using battery charger and whatnot. Just read through that. These are certain little guidelines. We'll hit accept. Please wait. And now everything is just going to load up. And there you are. Now it'll even show you if there is another version available, it will do automatic updates. So it's all ready loaded the newest updates so we can trash can the old one. We'll confirm. We'll take that out. So now we're on the latest and greatest. And you'll find that there will be updates as you use this constantly. They're always looking to improve the tool. So we'll hit confirm. And now it's going to set up the updates and get it all. Once the updates are loaded, you'll be able to get on the vehicle and be able to start your diagnostics. And that's basically all there is to it. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an iOS device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the iOS device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On iOS Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more: checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so let's begin. I'm going to show you how to load up your iLAND program onto your iphone or your ipad. You're going to go to app store. And when you go to app store, at the top when you search you're going to search for iLAND diagnostics. And that's i-l-a-n-d, no s. Once you get on iLAND diagnostics, you'll hit install and you're going to install the app on your phone. So, now you've downloaded your app, you'll find your icon on your main screen, on your home screen. So we'll hit that. So now we're going to go through registration process. Looks like a log in screen, but you'll see here in the lower left sign up. Hit that. And now you're going to feed the information. Of course it will say USA if you're in the United States. And then essentially what you're going to do at this point, you're going to enter your email address and then it's going to ask you to do it twice to confirm the correct email.All right, so we're essentially ready to do the next step will obviously the pairing. So we're going to pair up the phone now with the dongle so that once the two are connected, you'll have full use of your iLAND. So what essentially you're going to go to your Bluetooth settings. All right, go to settings, pull up Bluetooth, make sure Bluetooth is on. And then when you do a scan, the serial number for your unit is going to appear on your screen. Simply connect to it. Once you've done that, you're all set. So we'll get out of settings. We'll go back to our main screen. Let's hit iLAND. And now immediately all our vehicles come up. So if you're using an individual, you're just going to hit that, say you set yours up for a Range Rover, hit Range Rover and that's going to put you on the screen that's going to allow you to do all your diagnostics. And that we'll cover further in other vehicles. For now we want to show you how to do your initial set ups so you can get started using the iLAND. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the rear shocks on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Hi I'm Gareth your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on a 2005 L322. It's in need of new rear shock absorbers. We're going to be installing these new Bilstein replacement shock absorbers here that we sell. The mount, the top mount, is held on by three studs and three nuts up underneath the carpet which will show you momentarily. The rear, sorry, the lower mount is bolted with a big long bolt through the lower control arm of the vehicle. So like I said a short while ago we're replacing the shock absorbers because the lower bushing in the shock absorber itself is blown out on this side. Literally totally, the rubber casing is separated from the steel sleeve. If you want to get the closer look you can see here how it's almost off of the bolt at this point here. So the first job is to pull out the load space area cover. Ss you can see I'm kneeling on the spare tire here. These shocks do look like they've been replaced once before. This car does have a few miles on it. The carpet has already been removed once. But if you can lift the carpet up without too much damage or take off a few of the brackets that would be a good start. The nuts that hold the top of the shock on are a 16 millimeter nut. They are pretty tight so do expect to have to work them a little bit with a breaker bar. I've loosened them off already and I'll be doing, working from both sides of the lower face and the top face in here but we just wanted to show you where the shock mount came through the floor of the car so you can access it easier. Of course the front, sorry, the rear seats the base has to be folded all the way forward to access. So I've set the car up. I've got a jack stand underneath the lower control supporting all the suspension and any, you know, the main suspension components so that will relieve the tension on the shock absorber. I'm going to do it from the inside first so it can move a little freely. I think because the shock absorber is so, the lower bushing is so blown out I'll be able to just pull it off and remove it. Okay so we have the vehicle supported at the lower control arm by the jack stand which relieves the tension on the shock absorber. We're going to undo this nut, I'm going to wire brush it and put some WD-40 on it so we can slacken it off and drive out the bolt that holds the shock absorber to the lower control arm. So I've removed the hardware from inside the vehicle, the three 16 millimeter nuts from the top mount of the billstein, well the old strut. We're going to be putting a new Bilstein strut in there, shock absorber I should say. Because the old bushing is so blown out this thing is just going to literally fall off, off of the lower mount, and I did. And I'm pulling it out gently now, not to hit anything. So this is the old strut. As you can see the bushings totally blown out of it. You can see the old steel shell of the old bushing. We're going to be replacing it as a whole new assembly. The next job for me is to remove the nut, pull the main bolt out that supports everything, install the new one and then remount it at the top. Here we have the bolt removed from the vehicle off the lower control arm. As you can see this is the bushing which is actually part of the shock absorber which totally blew out and as you can see it's all worn away. This is going to be removed and thrown away because it comes with the new shock absorber. This is the bolt that holds everything together. As you can see it's a little bit rusty. I'm actually going to clean it up on the wire wheel here that we're lucky enough to have. Clean up the threads. I'm gonna put some anti-seize compound on the bolt so we don't have to worry about it being serviceable in the future. Everything should come apart it needs to and I'm gonna start reinstalling the new shock absorber. So this is the new shock absorber as I explained before. I'm going to put it down into the suspension assembly first, slide it up into place, hold it on by the three nuts initially loosely, and then mount the lower bolt, and then re secure everything nice and tightly using a bit of anti-seize on the bottom bolt, just so like I say it can be quite easily serviced in the future and then tighten everything up accordingly. This is the awkward part. Okay so we've got the new shock absorber installed, top and bottom, the bolt all cleaned up. I don't know whether you can see it, but it's there, the new bolt, well, old bolt cleaned up, wire brushed, anti-seize the nut on this side right here at the back. As you can see it bit of anti-seize on there. I swung on it with a big breaker bar to make sure it's nice tight and secure. We've wrapped up this side pretty much. The other side exactly the same way. It could be a little work out for you. You might break a sweat from time to time. And after that I'm ready to put the wheels back on and make sure we road test the car, make sure we've got no knocks, rattles, bangs, squeaks. And we should all be good.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the front and rear ride height sensors on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322). Applicable Part #s LR020627G (front right) / LR020626G (front left) / LR032106G (rear). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Hi I'm Gareth, tech support here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on an L322. It's actually a 2005 model. We're going to be replacing rear and front height sensors. The reason we're replacing the high sensors on this vehicle is that we were getting corrupt data from the height sensors through to the ride height control module and the car wasn't making any height adjustments. These, it's not uncommon to not have fault codes for this issue as data does get through but it has difficulty adjusting. A lot of the time it's due to the old sensor. This is a front, this is an original one. The the actual pivot point gets seized and tight. I can barely move this one so it won't flex with the sensor and ends up giving wrong information to the right height control module. This is the new replacement here as you can see, totally updated with a rubber bushing. You can see how easy that moves. It comes in a kit form with new retaining screws and a new replacement bracket. This is a 2005 model like I said with the BMW engine in it, which was built between 03 and 05. Part number for this particular model without active headlights is LR020627 for a front, and LR020626 I believe for the left front. The rears that we're going to replace first, this one I don't know if you can see clearly enough, but it's split here. There's a small crack in the body which allows water to ingress into the sensor and give corrupt data back to the ride height control module. And as you can see when I removed it from the other side it just tore apart unfortunately, so yeah definitely time to replace. This side was also starting to crack even though the screw came out. The new one for the left and right rear uses the same part number LR032106 genuine part that we sell. And this is the sensor itself. Again all rubber bushed, nicely. A little bit more updated. Not as big as cumbersome. And this also comes with a little tiny repair kit of new retaining screws. So we're gonna start here on the right rear of the vehicle for replacement to the rear sensor. It's a little bit of a tighter fit.It's located all the way back here against the rear subframe. It bolts the lower arm down on the lower control arm. There's a 13 mil headed bolt and nut that hold it in place here. There is one electrical connector right here there has to be cleaned. I generally spray with a bit of WD-40 or PB Blaster just to sort of loosen any dirt up or anything and I normally blow it with compressed air to loosen up any dirt that might have been caught in there. And then once the connectors off, we undo the two retaining screws, one here and one down at the back underneath, in the corner here. However I don't hold out much for the screws coming out that easily because they've been in there a long time and it's all heavily corroded. So I'll start on the nut here and bolt, then the electrical connector and then I'll work from underneath the vehicle and remove the two screws. Okay so here is the right rear height sensor removed. Lucky this time it came apart quite easily. Some, a lot of the time the hardware, these two screws that hold the sensor to the bracket rot out and you end up having to get vice grips out and start moving it bit by bit. But this one came out quite easily. This one is split down the side of the bracket and on this side you can see the split here, which was allowing water to get into the sensor and give corrupt information to the right height control module. So we're going to be putting the new, new one on momentarily and mounting it like so into the vehicle. 2 new screws, connector, with a dielectric grease in the connector to help waterproof it, stop any corrosion, and then we're going to move on to the front sensor. So the sensor is installed. Just a quick check to make sure that the arm moves nice and freely and doesn't obstruct the screws that we put in to hold it in place. And that's good. The arm goes back through the bracket hole somewhere here. There we'll put the original nut back on. There's nothing wrong with it. We'll hold it with a small 10 millimeter wrench down at the bottom. We'll zip it up make it nice and tight. We'll put the electrical connector back on with a little dab of dielectric grease and we're all set to move on to the front. So the new sensors all installed. It's solidly mounted to the lower control arm here. It's free and clear of the containing screws. The clips back on, dielectric grease on the inside of it. It's clipped on in place. That's all done we're gonna move on to the front section okay so here we are at the right front. This is the height sensor we're going to be replacing. I can already see at the top of the sensor it's split open. Plus I totally suspect this heim joint to be seized. I can't even wiggle it sideways, so I'm already assuming that it's bad and seized up. Gonna start off removing the electrical connector here. We squeeze the sides, the tabs, push it down, remove the connector. I'm going to disconnect the lower heim joint here at the lower control arm, and then we're gonna actually remove the whole bracket with the sensor from here and here. Obviously going to have to cut the cable tie that holds the wiring on for it right there and then we're gonna put a new bracket on. It'll go mount exactly the same place as the old one was but the new one has the plastic arms with the rubber bushings so they don't corrode and seize up. So this right front sensor, as I suspected with the left front, is seized solid. The arm moves at the sensor but won't pivot here at the arm and I'm pushing, there, I mean I'm forcing that quite badly and that would not it would, would not give good correct information to the right height control module. It would be corrupted. It's just totally rotted out, seized and needs replacing. Okay so the height sensor is off the car and I'm forcing it to move obviously, that would not work properly on the car. I mean it's freeing up now because I've moved it a couple of times but it's still way too tight for good correct data input to the right height control module. So with this we're going to be replacing, with the sensor, which comes with the new plastic arm with the rubber bushings, it's gonna get a new bracket, new screws and hardware that hold it all together and it has definitely been getting water in it off of the crack that is right at the top there where the hardware goes through. So the nice thing about the new sensors they come with the new bracket. We get to install the bracket first to the height sensor before we install it onto the car. So what I'm going to do is orient this in the right direction and of course we have the old one here to make sure I get it right. And we can screw it on using the two new screws. Screw the bracket on and then just use the old screws that hold the bracket to the subframe of the vehicle. Goes that way, like that. And for any beginners out there who want to try this it's always a good idea to take a photograph of it with your digital phone, cellular phone. Just pinched up a little bit. Don't have to go swinging on them they're small screws that's going into a small plastic housing. You don't want to strip the plastic housing out. You'll feel it bottomed out when it's tight. Check the other side. And there we go. Same as the old one. There, there, ready to install. I'm gonna get a cable tie for this so we can hold it on there nice and firmly. It's not flailing around. I'll go grab one. Okay so now we have the new right front high sensor installed. The clip, the wiring harness clip for the height sensor is on nice and firmly. The link rod is attached securely, as is the new bracket. I just zip-tied the wiring harness on nice and firmly just to stop it from blowing around and any possible catching of anything. We can put the wheel back on and we could lower the vehicle. We'll probably do a test first to see if we need to calibrate the suspension. You don't always have to calibrate the suspension, it depends on if there are any faults arise due to height sensor replacement. A lot of the time, or, most of the time all the height information is stored in the ride height control module. The sensor just tells the height control module what it's seeing. So not always calibration is needed but we won't see, know until we actually test the system. If we do then yeah we'll do a calibration procedure. If not luckily, hopefully, we have just replaced the sensors and the system will come back online and work properly. Okay so here we have the car off the left now, wheels back on. I've actually tested the vehicle a couple of times since we had the car on the ground. The air suspension is working back in operation normally now. There is no need to recalibrate every time you replace height sensors. The information is always stored in the right height control module on most of the Land Rover models. We did do all 4 sensors on this vehicle. I observed it with the diagnostic tool we had. The readings were with, well within parameters of one another. I did not calibrate it. I've tested the system in access mode normal ride height and in extended height mode and it is working perfectly fine. The vehicle drives excellent. I've no concerns over having any issues over to wanting to recalibrate. I've left it well alone. It doesn't need it. I'd be happy if this car came back to me from any repair facility in this condition.
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