suspension videos
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will replace the air suspension with our coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This kit also fits and is the same install process for the Land Rover LR3. Doug will then go over the installation of the EAS Re-flash module to remove dashboard codes.
Kit#: L319SRK-OMEHL Install Coil Spring Suspension Kit Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works for LR3) Hi I'm Doug. I'm the tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about a coil spring replacement kit that we have for the LR3's that is designed for LR3's now that every body's been adding steel bumpers and roof racks and additional weight to them that they find the original suspension really isn't designed for it. Or if you switch the coils and get the regular coil springs they're not heavy enough to hold the vehicle up. At least they're not going to give you the proper ride. So, what we have is a heavy duty set, which is our L319SRK-OMEHL. The OME representing Old Man Emu coil springs. These are a good heavy duty spring. And what these will do is unloaded it will actually raise the vehicle about 2 inches above its normal ride height. And give you a much higher loading capacity. Very nice kit, and essentially what you're going to get is 2 of these for the front. You can see by the size of the coils these are pretty massive. And these are definitely designed for heavy duty use. And the other would be 2 of the rears. And you can see even heavier yet. With a good shock absorber built in and a protective boot. You'll also get new nuts for the top of these where they install into the frame. So it's nice to have new hardware. And then you'll also get a reflash unit. So if you're converting over from the air suspension to the coil springs, so that you don't have all the warning lights and everything coming on. And basically works its way around the control module so you won't get all the lights and buzzers and everything else. So, that's essentially the kit, and the installation is pretty much the same as our other coil spring kits. But we're going to give you a little rundown and show you how to install it. All right, so, we're going to begin by doing the fronts. And you'll see that we've all ready taken the engine shield off. And that's just nothing more than the 4 ten millimeter nuts and the oil filler cap and that comes right out. The reason we're doing that is because we're going to access the inner nut on the 2 fronts from the top as opposed to trying to get at it from underneath. If you look at it from underneath you'll see it's almost impossible to get at.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
A brief overview of the Air-to-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits available for many Range Rover models. If this is something you have been thinking of installing on your Rover, watch this video to learn how to get started. Includes information on part 9520LBHDWB .
Air-To-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits For Range Rover VehiclesHi. I'm Chip French. I'm a salesman here at Atlantic British. And if you own a Range Rover you know the expense of maintaining your air suspension system. We've come up with a couple different coil spring conversions for all Range Rovers from 1993 up to the 2006 model. This one here is for the P38, for the vehicle that was built from 1995 to 2002. We use custom made springs, where other companies may use a spring from a different vehicle to fit the Rover, ours are custom bent. We also have machined perches where the springs go on, where other companies use a stamp steel product. We add new bump stops and also the override harness, which will bypass the error messages on your computer. It is very simple to plug in, instead of having to rewire the ECM, which could be expensive if not done correctly. We also have these available in a heavy duty set-up for some vehicles. Check us out on the website or just give us a call.
If your Range Rover L322 4.4 2003 - 2005 has an air suspension failure, you may have found out all ready that replacing the air springs and resetting the system could cost thousands of dollars. You may want to consider switching to a once-and-done conversion to coil springs with a quality coil-over suspension kit (item # L322SRK-C). The kit constrains a unique and exclusive EAS Override Module that makes conversion to coil springs seamless and error-free! This video shows a portion of the kit installation - using a spring compressor to mount the coil springs in place. Complete, printable instructions for this kit are available here.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part One (Extra) Now that we have added a raised suspension for off-road use, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the standard brake hose on our project D2. Doug then upgrades with and installs our exclusive performance braided stainless steel brake hose (Part # ABP218L ) for Discovery Series II with raised suspension. Doug will also demonstrate how to bleed the brake system using the Hawkeye Diagnostic Tool "Power Bleed" Function. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on. Part One (Extra):Installing Performance Stainless Steel Brake Hose (For Raised Suspension) Part # ABP218LHi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And what we're going to do is our next step in Project D2 is add on our extended steel braided brake hoses. The reason being for that is if you're actually going to take your D2 out on the deep woods and what you have to avoid now that you have a lift kit in there, is if the suspension should go to full extension, you have to make sure that the brake hoses are long enough to be able to take that. The one thing you don't need is a broken brake hose out in the woods. So what we do is we actually manufacture steel braided lines. You'll actually see the hose itself actually looks considerably smaller than the originals, which are nothing more than just the rubbers. You have heftier fittings on the end, and they're actually a couple inches longer than the original design so that you can avoid over-stretching the hoses should you go to full extension. Now the other advantage to braided steel hoses is that they're definitely more resistant to abrasion and should you be rubbing them up against rocks and sticks and whatnot that get up under the wheel wells as you're going through the woods, there's less of a chance of them getting cut or being sliced. So what we're going to do is I'm going to show you how to install them. This kit is ABP218L. This is both the front and rear hoses. And the 2 little joiner hoses to the rear brakes that are behind the rear well and now we're going to show you how to install them.Close the bleeder down. Now this wheel is done. Then we just continue on and we do the other 3. And we'll be all set. Again remember after say every other wheel, make sure you check your fluid level. You don't want to run the master cylinder dry. And you're going to use the good clean DOT 4 fluid. So, now you've seen how to properly bleed the brakes. We're all done. And you're going to find the master cylinder is down a little bit. We're going to fill it to just below the max line. On the side of the reservoir right here you have a max with a line, and down below minimum with a line. We're going to fill this to just below the max because what's going to happen is after you put your filter back in, and let that run into, that's going to displace some fluid. Then your cap with your sending unit is also going to displace some. So by the time you're done, it's going to bring that level right up to the max line. Now again what I would recommend at this point. Every thing has bled out, which means no air, no loss of pressure. You're going to have somebody basically start the vehicle, step on the brake pedal and hold it. Do a final inspection. Make sure you have no leaks coming out of your hose connections, either at the calipers or on the lines. You want to make sure all that's good and tight. Any excess fluid you want to wash off. The brake fluid over a period of time will affect paint. So you want to rinse it off. Warm water is a great way to rinse it off. Get your wheels back on. And road test your vehicle. So you've seen how easy it is to do. There's a little time involved with it but well worth it on the end. So when you're ready to upgrade the brake hoses in your Discovery, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Warning: This video contains serious LR3 off-road capability on display. Does your costly LR3 air suspension got you down?
Interested in a once-and-done coil spring conversion?
Look no further than our Heavy Load Air Suspension To Coil Spring Conversion Kit With Original Equipment Struts & Springs (L319SRK-OE) . Features OE struts and springs that are original equipment on North American V6 LR3 vehicles. Kit also includes our proprietary EAS Reflash Management Software. The reflash software comes in an easy diagnostic connector and eliminates dashboard warning lights and errors seen when removing your stock Land Rover air suspension (EAS).
…But don't take our word for it, check out our coil-spring kit in action with this LR3 off-the-grid video in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! To learn more about the specs of the suspension kit, and to order, just click here .
Out with the air bags. In with the coils. Atlantic British Coil Conversion Kit. Original Equipment Coils. Original Equipment Struts. Traction Control Enabled. Hill Descent Control Enabled. Bomb-Proof Reliability. Zero Maintenance. Stability Control Enabled. The Go-Anywhere Suspension Solution.
Warning: This video contains serious LR3 off-road capability on display. Does your costly LR3 air suspension got you down?
Interested in a once-and-done coil spring conversion?
Are you looking for a trail-rated solution that that boosts your LR3 with 2 inches of lift and heavy duty springs from Old Man Emu?
Look no further than our Heavy Load Air Suspension To Coil Spring Conversion Kit With Atlantic British Struts & Old Man Emu Springs (L319SRK-OMEHL) . It adds 2 inches of lift and features new custom struts from Atlantic British and our proprietary EAS Reflash Management Software. The reflash software comes in an easy diagnostic connector and eliminates dashboard warning lights and errors seen when removing your stock Land Rover air suspension (EAS).
…But don't take our word for it, check out our coil-spring kit in action with this LR3 off-the-grid video in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! For more details on this suspension kit, and to order, just click here .
Out with the air bags. In with the coils. Atlantic British Coil Conversion Kit. ARB Old Man Emu Coils. Atlantic British Struts. Traction Control Enabled. Hill Descent Control Enabled. Bomb-Proof Reliability. Zero Maintenance. Stability Control Enabled. The Go-Anywhere Suspension Solution.
As a Land Rover owner, are you confused over terms like "ACE", "DSC" or "Vehicle Dynamic Suspension"? In many ways, these terms all refer to the same basic system, even though Land Rover has decided to change the terminology by vehicle model and year. Listen to our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug, as he explains the various terms and what they mean in relation to Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009 and Range Rover Sport, 2010 - 2013.
Is There A Difference Between The Directional Stability Control (DSC) System, The ACE System or The Dynamic Response System?Hi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. I want to do a short video simply explaining what is ACE. There's been some confusion in the past, and we've had some customers call and wanted to know so we've actually done some previous videos on how to identify whether your vehicle has ACE and exactly what is the system. Now if you have a Discovery 2 and it has ACE, which we did show in the video how to identify that. Essentially all they used was a 2 way hydraulic ram on a split sway bar to help control the vehicle on cornering, to help force a leveling. Uses ACE fluid. Uses a valve block on the passenger side underneath the vehicle. And if you actually look on a previous video we've actually shown you how to do some basic maintenance on that system by replacing the filter and the fluid. Now later on they came out with a similar system in the Range Rover Sports. And that was essentially called Active Stabilization System, or we've even seen it described as Directional Stability Control and even some analyzers have called it Active Roll Control. Essentially they are all the same thing. And what they did was they got away from the 2 way split ram and got into an integral hydraulic motor built into the sway bars, but essentially control the same way. And that's all that ACE is. It's hydraulically controlled sway bars that help level your vehicle on cornering. Again the procedure for the maintenance on the Sport will be the same as the Discovery which is simply filter replacement and some fluid. I hope that clarifies what ACE is. If you have any further questions you can contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to point you in the right direction on what you need to do the maintenance on your ACE system. Just a footnote we wanted to put in. You may have also heard the term Vehicle Dynamic Suspension. Doesn't apply to the Land Rover Sport. It is another system used in the full size Land Rover and it utilizes the air suspension to help reduce body roll. There is no hydraulic roll bar as there is in the Sport and D2. So we just wanted to make sure we had that clear, that you may have heard that term, but it does not apply to the Sport, nor does it apply to the D2. That should just about wrap that up. Wait a minute, wasn't this a Defender?
Warning: This video contains serious LR3 off-road capability on display. Does your costly LR3 V8 4.4L air suspension got you down?
Interested in a once-and-done coil spring conversion?
Look no further than our Standard Load Air Suspension To Coil Spring Conversion Kit With Atlantic British Struts & Springs (L319SRK-A) . Features new custom struts from Atlantic British and our proprietary EAS Reflash Management Software. The reflash software comes in an easy diagnostic connector and eliminates dashboard warning lights and errors seen when removing your stock Land Rover air suspension (EAS).
…But don't take our word for it, check out our coil-spring kit in action with this LR3 off-the-grid video in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado! For more details on this suspension kit, and to order, just click here .
Out with the air bags. In with the coils. Atlantic British Coil Conversion Kit. Atlantic British Coils. Atlantic British Struts. Traction Control Enabled. Hill Descent Control Enabled. Bomb-Proof Reliability. Zero Maintenance. Stability Control Enabled. The Go-Anywhere Suspension Solution.
Over time, the air strut will dry out and cause minor leaks that will require maintenance to the air suspension system. While we offer the popular coil spring conversion kits for these vehicles, some Rover customers prefer the air ride--one of the reasons they drive a Rover to begin with. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains removing and replacing the front and rear air strut assemblies demonstrated on 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Additionally, using the Hawkeye Diagnostic Scan Tool, Doug will show you how to access the air suspension system to depressurize/deflate the bags prior to changeover. This replacement service is also similar on the Range Rover Sport or Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009, along with the LR3, 2005 - 2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to live chat.
Removing / Installing Front & Rear Air Strut Assembly Demonstrated on 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged and Using a Hawkeye Diagnostics Scan ToolHi I'm Doug your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going show you how to change over the air shock - strut assemblies that you have on the LR3, the Sport, from 2006 to 2009. Or actually even 2005 with the LR3s. As these vehicles are aging these bags are starting to dry out. And they're starting to develop minor leaks. You figure some of them, looking at the 2005, are going on 10 years old. So they're going to require some maintenance, some change over. Now you've probably heard of the coil spring change overs that we have available, and they're very popular, but we have customers that also prefer the air ride. One of the reasons they drive a Land Rover to begin with. So, when you're ready to change over the bags we want to give you an idea of what's going to be involved. So to start with I'm just going to show you some of the tools that I normally use when I'm going to take them off because of the tightness, or lack of space between the top of these units and the body of the vehicle, it's very hard to get a standard ratchet and a socket in there. It's almost impossible.And then from there we'll have to do a calibration now. You cannot do a height calibration using the Hawkeye. What you would need is basically a Land Rover specific analyzer like an Autologic, or would have to be taken to a dealer so they can hook it up to an STD or their current diagnostic tool and make sure the calibration is set right. Once that's done, that should improve the ride greatly on your vehicle. So if you opt and you want to replace the air bag and suspension in your Range Rover Sport, this is also the same application as far as the installation would be for the LR3 and LR4, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Get a complete tour underneath an LR3 V8 4.4L. Watch Jim as he identifies the various components of the LR3, identifying the air suspension compressor, emergency brake actuator, oil filter and drain plug, front differential, transfer case and shift motor placement and some parts of the air suspension system. Please note that the LR3 undercarriage is identical to the Range Rover Sport.
LR3 Under-Car Tour (also applies to Range Rover Sport)Hi it's Jim here at Atlantic British. I do the technical support here. Today we're going to do like a walk around tour underneath an LR3. LR3 and Range Rover Sport are exactly the same underneath. We're going to be showing you the air suspension compressor, the emergency brake actuator and some parts of the axle air suspension system. Let's take a short walk over to the car. First thing I want to start with is probably the hardest to see. It's just above the rear axle under the car. It's the emergency brake actuator. If you can look up past the axle. I got it lit up there. You can see my finger probably. That's where it is. Exactly in the middle of nowhere. From that actuator there's cables that wind around and come out into each rear brake. You'll find the emergency brake shoes are inside the rear brake calipers. It's electrically operated. Fairly reliable. Next thing under here I want to take a look at is parts of the air suspension. One thing you should know is the compressor is underneath this little plastic cover, right here by the frame. Make sure if you're jacking this truck up you're not jacking on this because you could wreck it and spend a lot of money. There's like 3 bolts that hold this cover on and some snaps. I already got the 3 bolts out. I'll just release the snaps. Here it comes. Okay once you get that out of the way, here's your compressor. It's not a bad job to replace. There has been some problems with that. Next thing we want to look at under here is up from the compressor is the reservoir for the air. Not too many problems with that. Next thing back towards the back I'll show you where the actual height sensors are. Height sensors are back here. You can see there's a little arm on them. One on each side. Next thing I want to show you is if you're going to do an oil change, kind of what you got to go through on this truck just to get at your oil filter and the drain plug. As you can see we've moved to the front of the car. As I mentioned before to do an oil change on this car you have to take this whole skid plate off. There's a little plate up front. And this plate. It's pretty straight forward. A bunch of bolts come out. It's heavy. You may need some help getting it out of here. I'll remove this and show you where the drain plug is. Also why we're up here, here's where the front height sensors are for the air suspension. And while we're up in there you can see there's brake lines and so that go to the front brake caliper. As you can see I've removed the skid plate. You can find your drain plug for your engine oil right there. And if you move towards the front the oil filter's right here. It's attached to an oil cooler. While we're up here in the front I can show you where the front differential is. It's right here with its drain. It's a good idea to change it once in a while. We can move farther back into the car, and if you're wondering where your transfer case is, it's just above my head. And there's a shift motor there that sometimes fails on these cars. Here at Atlantic British we stock everything for your LR3 or Sport, whether it is a simple oil filter that was up in the front. Or in the back for the emergency brake. We carry the actuator. We carry the emergency brake shoes. Just about anything you need. You know brake shoes. Brake pads. Anything you want you can get for your Rover here at Atlantic British. You can give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 or check us out on the web at RoverParts.com.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will go over the installation of the re-flash module to remove dashboard codes after installation of our coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This same install process also applies to the Land Rover LR3.
Part #:7980 EAS Reflash Module Installation Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works On LR3) So when you're done converting your Sport or LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you're going to need to do what's referred to as a reflash, or inline filter. Basically to fool the system so that it will turn off all the warning lights, and the bells and whistles and everything. And everything else will operate. What it also does is it also maintains Terrain Response so you don't lose that. Which is nice. The only thing you do lose is the ability to raise and lower the vehicle at will. So, essentially what you'll be receiving is an EAS reflash unit. Refer to this. it's the 7980. It comes with the box. You'll also have a plug in pigtail. It's got 6 wires off of it that will need to be wired in. We're going to show you how to do that in a few minutes. And that's essentially it. And then through a small process you'll be able to reflash this unit so that you'll be able to drive away without having all the warning lights on. So we're going to start off with showing you how to access and where the location of the right lower control module is because the wiring going into that module is where we're going to be cutting into, and splicing into to make this work. All right, so we have the vehicle started. And you can see the warning lights you have on. Red brake light. The ABS light. The steering angle sensor. The suspension light. And all those are related, especially on these newer vehicles with these networks. They all talk to each other. So, now you've seen the lights. Now we're going to show you the Terrain Response, which the lights are out because it also sees a fault there. All right, so, here's your Terrain Response selector on the center console. And you'll see I'm going to move this bright light away just for a second, and you can see there are no indicator lights on that. So you've essentially lost Terrain Response. And we're going to go through the reflash and get that back. So to get started we're going to need a few basic tools. A straight blade screw driver. Phillips screw driver. I would prefer you use a nylon trim tool as opposed to metal. And then a quarter inch drive ratchet extension. This is a 10 millimeter deep swivel head. You can go with a regular deep with a shorter extension. This is just the set up I like to use. And an 8 millimeter deep quarter inch drive socket. So you start off with taking a straight blade and we're just going to stick that underneath that. This is your foot rest. This pops right off. Now, what that does is that exposes to 10 millimeter nuts that are going to hold this foot pad in place. So we grab our quarter ratchet. And the reason I go with the deep is because you've got probably about 3/4 of an inch of stud past the nut, so a regular socket will be a little to shallow to get all the way on the nut to get it off. So we've got one. Also, 1 more tool you're going to need is going to be a T25 torx driver. There's a torx head bolt that holds the hood release level on.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Learn the differences between BOSCH and GEMS V8 engines found in Land Rover Discovery I, Discovery II and Range Rover models. Jim shows how to determine whether your Land Rover is equipped with an ACE suspension. The video also shows how to change a pollen filter on a Range Rover and highlights key vehicle components.
Bosch Engine vs. GEMS Engine: An Under-Hood Tour of the Discovery Series II and Range Rover P38Good morning. It's Jim from Atlantic British again. I take care of the technical support here. We have a little motto around here if you've got questions, we've got answers. Today we're going to explain the difference between a GEMS engine in your Range Rover and a Bosch engine. We get people wondering about this all the time. We're going to start with 1998 Range Rover here. This engine is the GEMS engine. The easiest thing to figure out is you'll see this center plenum. It'll say either 4.0 or 4.6 on them. That's the easiest way to tell. Now over next to us here, we've got a Discovery 2. If you look under the hood of this one you can see it's marketable different. It's commonly called what I call the plumber's nightmare. And that's basically the easiest way to tell the difference between the 2 engines, is they really look difference now that you see a picture. While we're here at the Discovery 2 another question we always get is 'Does my car have the ACE suspension in it?' Again, the easiest way to tell, now this car does not have it. Find your power steering reservoir which is right here. It has one cap. If this truck did have ACE, the reservoir would look like this one, with 2 caps on it. It's the simplest way. There's also a picture on our website showing the actually hydraulic rams underneath the front end. While we're here we can give you a quick tour of under the hood. Over here would be your brake master cylinder. This is the fabulous unit where you get the 3 Amigos from. This is the server for the ABS unit. If we pan over to the other side of the truck, this would be your reservoir for the coolant. And right here is the underhood fuse box. Which comes off. Right there. And find all your fuses in there. We've got both cars together. We'll go back over to the 4.0. Another question we normally get is about pollen filters, which you should do I would say maybe every 15,00 miles. They're located in these compartments just at the base of the windshield. They have these covers on them held with 2 screws. You remove the screws. Get that out of the way. And it just pulls out. As you can see Nancy here has nice clean ones. When you're all done just slide it back in, put the cover back on and replace the screws. While we're at this truck, same thing. Here's your coolant tank. Next to that is the fuse box. These trucks have problems with these fuse boxes. As you can see these relays get discolored from overheating. Especially these 2 fronts ones that go with the air conditioner. And a little hint: If these relays get hot, take a look at your pollen filters because usually it overworks the blower motors. This would be your windshield washer solvent. And moving over here this is power steering fluid. Under here is your air filter. And back here is the reservoir for the brake cylinder. Contained in this box here is the air compressor for the air suspension. This car has the air suspension removed so I don't think it's in there anymore. Here at Atlantic British we carry lot's of parts for both of these cars. You can contact us on either RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Contact our sales department. They're very knowledgeable on both of these cars. And another good idea - you can probably follow us on YouTube. Go to our website and you can sign up for the YouTube videos. You'll get notifications when a new one comes out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, talk you through the replacement of the original equipment rear bushing (or you can use the optional polybush kit , which we show in this video) of the lower control arm suspension. Access to this bushing is granted by removing the entire lower control arm assembly. This is a common replacement for Range Rover Sport 2006-2009, or LR3 2005-2009, and affects steering stability when the bushing becomes old and worn out.
Lower Control Arm Suspensions: Rear Bushing Replacement On LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a very common issue that we find on the LR3s and the Sports. It is the lower control arm suspension. The rear bushing likes to soften up, which creates a lot of movement in the control arm, to the point where even stepping on the brake you can actually hear a bang noise coming from underneath. And what that does is throws off your alignment, creates tire wear instability on steering, overall just does not make the vehicle comfortable to drive. Also can be rather expensive in the end, especially if you're buying tires on a regular basis. So what we're going to do is show you how to remove the lower control arm and then you have the option of either replacing the control arm with either with original equipment bushings or we also offer a polybush, which we're also going to show you how to install those. So, what we have essentially have done is the vehicle is up in the air, tires off. We've taken the front brakes off, because we're also doing brakes on this vehicle. But getting the brakes out of the way does make the job easier. And makes the knuckle assembly much lighter to handle. We're not going to take the knuckle out.Now ideally when you get the vehicle back together, if you have access to a drive on ramp, or if you have room to work underneath, what you should do is get the vehicle down on all 4, set your height at normal ride height, and then you loosen the 2 pivot bolts that we just installed and your shock spring bolts. Let it neutralize. Let it settle down. And then re-tighten them. That will basically set all the bushings in their neutral positions. And it will ride a lot better. It will also eliminate the possibility of any squeaks. If you should have one of the bushings stressed because we tightened it when the axles were fully down. That's pretty much it. So if you are going to either change over your lower control arm or you want to install polybushings, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLand Diagnostic App to perform a ride height calibration, a function that must be done on Range Rover Sport, LR3 and late model Land Rovers after replacement of the height sensor or the air suspension bags, to re-level the vehicle. The wheel center cap that Doug uses is part # LR089424G . iLand, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us.
How To Use the iLAND App Ride Height Calibration For All Model Rover Vehicles - Demonstrated on the Range Rover Sport. Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on one of the functions of the new iLAND. Now we're in a 2006 Sport. You can basically do the same thing with both the 2006 to 2009 LR3 and the Full Size. And what we're going to do is show you how to do a height calibration. Any time you replace a height sensor or air bags, you usually need to do a recalibration to re-level the vehicle. And the iLAND is capable of doing that. We're also going to show you a little trick to get around normally the use of a tool that's used by Land Rover at the dealerships to set these up. It's sort of an expensive tool. And if you're just a do it yourselfer and you're just going to be doing this on occasion, we'll show you how to get around with a nice cheap trick. Alright, so, the next step is we're going to plug in our dongle. We're going to make sure we see the blue LED that it's powered up. We'll turn on our smartphone. Now just as a note. On your Android systems you're going to have a single icon which is fine. You click on that. If you're using am iphone or ipad you're going to have 2 icons. One with a blue dot. You do not use that icon. Use the iLAND icon that does not have the blue dot. Otherwise if you click on the second one you're going to get no connection. So let's go ahead and do that. Get set up. Alright, so we're plugged in. We're going to pull up our first screen. Now just a reminder the reason ours are all red is this is the Pro version. This has access to all the vehicles. Now if you have just a single vehicle set up on yours, whether it be an LR3, Sport, whatever, just that one is going to be set up in red. So we are in a 2006 Sport. So we're going to go Range Rover Sport. And we're going to accept all what they call the garage disclaimers. We are not showing an updated version so we're okay. We have the latest and greatest. And we'll hit confirm. So now we'll be connecting to our Bluetooth dongle. As I said we're in a 2006, so we'll go with that. And we have a 4.2 Supercharged so we're going to choose that. So now what it will do is I'll need to install the key. And turn the ignition on so that it can communicate with the modules. And we're going to go down to system selection. And what we want to do is find the ride level control module. Ride level control module. And we're going to go to special functions. And as you can see we can do height calibration. We can also do deflate and re-enable suspension in case of changing over air bags and other services. You can see some of the functions that this can do. So what we're going to do in this case is we're going to go to height calibration.Now we've gotten to a window. It will take us to a procedure where it will do a complete vehicle diagnostic trouble code clear. Asks if you want to continue. Obviously we want to clear any codes that we may have incurred using this process. It says switch off. Switch is off. And we'll switch on. Control module procedure completed successfully. So we've cleared all the fault codes out of that. It tells you to turn the key off. And that's it. We've done a height calibration on our vehicle. And we're ready to roll down the road. So now you've seen another good function that can become very handy for anybody doing a air suspension repair on either the Sport, LR3 or the Full Size. And this is 2006 to 2009. You also have the same function for the 2010 and higher vehicles as well. So when you're ready to do a air suspension repair and you know you're going to need to do a height calibration the iLAND is going to do it for you. Watch you simply do is you can call anyone of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or what you can do is click on this link and you can order the part via online. And if you like our videos, and you want to learn more about your Land Rover and how to repair it, you can simple go and subscribe to our YouTube channel. So we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part One Nowadays you can find a good used and affordable Discovery Series II for $3,500 - 5K. Add another $3K - 5K and you can outfit your Discovery II for off-road in no time. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part One of our video how-to series, as he upgrades and installs the 2" lift suspension of our project D2 with Terrafirma Shocks and Springs Kit (TFD2SUSPKIT ), Terrafirma Shock Towers (TF534 ) and Terrafirma Steering Damper (TF802 ). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off - RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on. Part One: Installing a Spring &Shock Kit and Upgraded Shock Towers from Terrafirma Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And as Eric explained earlier on the intro what we're going to do is show you how to take a good solid Discovery 2, stock form, and within a decent, very affordable amount of money, basically build yourself a very capable 4 x 4. So what we're going to start with is a suspension upgrade using a Terrafirma 2 inch lift kit. The springs. The shocks. Anew front damper. The skeleton towers for the shock absorbers. And we'll show you why we're going to replace these during the course of the installation. A new set of isolators and new nuts. And that's what we're going to start with. And you'll see almost immediately how the upgrade and what that's going to do for the suspension of this vehicle. But we are going to continue on. We have a number of items we're going to be doing on this vehicle, and we'll show you at the very end that you're going to have basically a really nice off road unit, in a very affordable price range. So, follow along with me and I'm going to show you how to install all this in your vehicle.Plus you've got a little heavier bushings on both ends. And the only thing that we need to do to replace that is simply take out your 2 end bolts - 1 here and 1 there. 15 millimeter on one side, 18 on the other. We're going to take them off with hand wrenches. And be just that easy, just that quick. So, let's put it in. All right. There we go. So, that's it. Just get the 2 bolts in. Get it good and tight. Double check your positioning. She looks pretty good. And now you've got a good heavy duty damper up front. So, as you can see, it's just that easy, just that quick to install the steering damper. So, we've got step 1 of our D2 conversion set up. So when you're ready to changeover and pout this suspension in your Discovery 2, just give a call to Eric, or any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
ARB talks about the new ARB601 Digital Tire Inflator. ARB manufactures Bull Bars, winch compatible replacement front bumpers, ARB rear bumpers with tire carriers, ARB roof racks, ARB Air Locker locking differentials and covers, ARB Rock Sliders, side rails and steps, ARB Freezer Fridges, ARB Air Compressors, ARB Snatch Blocks, ARB Snatch Straps / tow straps, ARB Tree Savers, ARB rooftop tents and awnings. ARB is also the manufacturer of Old Man Emu (OME) Customized Suspension Systems and is the exclusive distributor for IPF Lighting Products and Safari Snorkels in North, Central and South America. For more information, please visit www.roverparts.com/parts/ARB601 .
This is a new ARB 601 tire inflator. A lot of features and benefits you might miss at first glance. It's actually a year of R&D; went into this to make it as good as it could be. I would say it's probably the leader in the category. Looking at the gauge it uses two triple A batteries. Give you about 200 hours of use out of there. It has several indicators, bar and PSI being a couple we'd use here, battery indicator on the front. It's backlit so at night you can see it. One of the features I really like is the long braided hose. This is really useful when you hook on to your valve stem you actually stand up to pressurize your tires or to let tire pressure down. You don't actually have to stay crouched. There's a button on the side here you can use for letting air out of the tire. All cast features, robust paddle here and on the end a very aggressive Chuck to hang on to that belt. If you like to learn more about this unique tire inflator please click on the link below.
When the rear brake backing plate starts to rot where the pins for the parking brake shoes are retained, it is important to replace this item to avoid further damage to your braking system. With our NEW Split Shell Design, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explains the process involved in replacing the rear brake backing plates for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged, LR3 or LR4. Our money-saving kit # PARKBRAKIT02 includes the left and right brake backing plates and connecting hardware, and parking brake shoes. What makes this rear brake backing plate kit special from the original is the new split shell two-piece design we use. With the original design, to access to replace you must disassemble part of the rear suspension, etc., which could involve damaging some components (through removal). You will avoid this with our kit at installation, since we work around those components. In this video, you will also see Doug remove and re-install the parking brake shoes and connect cable.
tech support rep here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about backing plates and specifically backing plates for the 2006 to 09 Sport. Both the naturally aspirated and the supercharged. 2010 to 2013 naturally aspirated 5 liter LR3 and LR4. And you probably most people might recognize these. These backing plates sit just ahead of the and behind the rotor, your disc brake rotor, designed to keep rocks and splash and whatnot from getting all over the brakes. Again they're not water tight but they're there to serve a purpose. So what can happen is in areas that use a lot of salt on the roads or if you're on a shore area by salt water over a period of time these backing plates can deteriorate and this is a perfect example. This is off of an 06 Sport. Now not only are these there as a splash shield but they're also the support and the mounting area for the parking brakes. So it's critical that we maintain these to keep the parking brakes working properly. So I'll get you rid of that. So the issue is that when you go to change these that most of these vehicles are designed so that you can't get the backing plate off unless you pull the rear hub, which in most cases you're going to destroy the bearing and if you destroy the bearing you got to press that on and off which means taking the knuckle assembly off the back of the vehicle which means trying to get those two bolts for the upper and lower ball joint out which are usually frozen in place and it just turns it into a huge job. So what we've done to get around that is we've come up with a two-piece backing plate. You have metal brackets here that line up that you can install these without having to take the hub off and then set these in place. You'll have the three bolts that hold the plate naturally as it is as designed plus the two additional plates to hold everything together and keep it aligned. You'll end up with a good solid setup. And you can apply the parking brakes on these. So this is essentially what you would receive is the two rear backing plates both left and right hand side, the hardware needed to bolt the plates to that. Eerything else you're going to use the old hardware on. So stay tuned. We're gonna show you how to install them. All right. In addition to rotted backing plates a real known issue on this parking brake assembly is for the shoes to come apart or one of the springs to rot out and let go and you're probably going to find once you get the rotors off and you get a good look at it more than likely you're gonna need a replacement of those shoes. So just wanted to show you the kit that we've put together where we have the four parking brake shoes. You have two on each side. One on each side has the lever that it connects to the parking brake cable and then you also have your adjustment mechanism. And then essentially your replacement springs this would be the spring around the parking brake cable. We'll show you how to install that and then the upper and lower spring for the shoes. So reasonably a pretty basic setup and then of course you're gonna reuse the old adjustment knob for the bottom. In case that got damaged that's available as a separate part as well as long as well as the crossbar that goes from shoe to shoe. And generally those aren't damaged. They're usually in pretty good shape and you can reuse those. Should you need them though they are available. So to show you what happens we actually take one of our, this is one of our vehicles, this is an 06 Sport and the driver had noticed the loud grinding noise from the back and when we got into inspecting it to find what the noise or the source of the noise was it turns out our back end plates are all rotted out to the point where they've moved in, they're rubbing against the rust ridge on the outside of the rotor. You've got literally holes right through there so as a splash shield they become basically useless. And on the other side it became so weak that the front half of it actually folded in and created an opening. So this is how bad they can get and like I say we're in the New York area. You're gonna see this basically in any state that lays heavy salt in the wintertime, calcium chloride or if you live along a shore anywhere along the east or west shorelines, you're gonna have the salt air and it's going to do the same thing. So that's some pretty bad shape. So let's show you how to get those replaced. Alright so first to start this what I usually like to do is I want to compress the piston in the caliper so that I can take the caliper off easily and that we do by just inserting this onto the backside of the rotor and up against the caliper body. Not against the mount. And then we're just go to very easily and you can see it's starting to move we're just gonna bring back pressure until that seats the piston. And once you get about half way you can knock this in, get in behind that inboard pad and you feel it move it a little bit easier. And you'll feel it seek better too. And we'll just keep coming back can we get some room there. Before we start taking the caliper apart we're going to shoot a little penetrating oil in there because we have the, we're doing the right side, the pad sensor is right here so you pull off the cover for the bleeder screw. And lift that wire out of there. What we're gonna simply do is grab the 90 degree Bend on there very gently with a pair of pliers. We're just gonna work that back and forth. We're just gonna wobble that. And then start to pull as we wobble and you'll see you get a little bit more play, a little bit more play. And then we finally get it out of it. We don't want to break this because then you got to replace the sensor all the way up in it. Now there's a little brass loop that goes around the bottom of the sensor. You want to make sure you got that out of there because you don't want to lose that. That's what holds it. Now in this case it stayed in the sensor so we're good there. So now we can take the two bolts on top and bottom of the caliper. We're going to unbolt the caliper set it on top of the control arm and then we can get to the actual caliper mount which we need to move out of the way so we can get the rotor off. All right so this is a note - the bolts are a 13 millimeter head so I like to use a ratcheting box wrench but to keep that inner post from spinning so you can take the nut out that uses a 15 millimeter. You're gonna need a thin wrench. I use this style but you can if you have a an aftermarket wrench it's a little thinner than this, then the heavier Mac or the snap-on's you might be able to sneak that in there but the skinny wrenches work really well. This one in particular is a snap-on and it sneaks in there and it's able to take the torque pretty darn well. Alright so just as a note those bolts that we took out of the back of the caliper the 13 millimeter head you need a 15 millimeter opening wrench to hold these back posts. Once you got the caliper off you're good idea to check to make sure that the two posts are free that they spin they move in and out and then what we're going to now to do is take the caliper mount off and that uses a 15 millimeter 12-point. It's got a 12-point headed bolt on it. You're not going to be able to get a six-point on it. So I like using the proper size socket and then half inch drive so you get more leverage. You might have a hard time trying to get these off with a 3/8 drive. You want the extra length. You want the happiness. There we go. All right so with the caliper out of the way the next step is going to be we're going to get the rotor off. First thing we'll do is we'll spin this around until we can actually see the little neural adjuster. They'll be on opposite sides so like on the right side you'll find it on the bottom left side of vehicle you'll find it up top. You have a little opening here that you can use to get a screwdriver in and adjust it back and then normally there'll be a little plastic plug right here. In this case the plug fell out. You can just take a small straight blade screwdriver, a little penknife or something that just pops right out of there. So once you've adjusted it down and you'll be able to tell if obviously if you turn it the wrong direction it will reach a point where you can't turn the rotor so you're going to go in the opposite direction until it's fully seated and backed off and then we've got to take the locating bolt out of there. Now that's a number 45 Torx which you could probably try to remove with just a three-eighths breaker bar in a socket. But in this case I like using the little handheld impact because it knocks them loose. Especially when they've been in there for a long period of time. If you have access to one it's a tool that's been around for as long as I can remember. We used to use it a lot on motorcycles but comes in very handy on these as well. All right and now we take the rotor off. In this case you're gonna find it's locked right onto the hub so we just take that hammer. Right in the hub area. Isn't so sharp. And you'll hear when it breaks loose. All of a sudden the sound isn't so sharp. It becomes a dull thud. And we'll just work that out. So, we have the shoes exposed now we're down to the parking brake assembly. First thing we're going to do is we're gonna take these springs out now what this is is basically a fold over spring so that it's outward tension is going to hold up against the head of this pin. This pin just floats in there. So the easiest way is just to insert a screwdriver. You want to push in to compress that spring a little bit and then keep working it back and forth until that pin pops out. Okay so that's essentially what your spring looks like. They're a lot easier getting out than they are going in. So there's one, a little bit, do the same with this - push in and twist. We'll push those pins in a little bit. Get them out of the way. It's essentially the retainer pin and we'll probably want to replace that. If they're really badly corroded you're going to take alot of this out anyway. Might as well replace it, get some new springs in there. Then what you have at the bottom is the adjuster knurled this is what we turned to be able to compress the shoes to make room so we could get the rotor off. So now we'll just take the same screwdriver and spread the shoes. Okay so that's your, and that's your adjuster and you can see you got slots on both sides. That's where the shoe actually seats in. Then we remove the bottom spring. Just grab a pair of pliers. Pull the spring out of there. If you pull a spring out and the feels really crusty and crunches when you twist it back and forth it's a good chance, might as well replace that as well we have kits available where you can get all the retainer springs. So at this point what we're going to try to do then is we're going to spread the bottom of these shoes out wider than the hub and then turn them to the side and we should be able to remove that out of there. You'll see on the backside there's the end of your parking brake cable. This is the cable that's going to run into your electronic parking brake module which is up over the rear axle. Now this essentially has a little lock out on it so what we're going to do is we can push in and then we can flip that down so that we can sneak the cable out of there. Let's give it a little persuasion with a pair of pliers. And the spring hooks on that. So essentially there's your shoes. This is all gonna come off one assembly. So now we got the parking brakes, the shoes out of the way the parking brake assembly, we'll sneaked in here. We want to get our spreader out of the way. And again you can see springs kind of in rough shape. Yeah we definitely would want to put a new kit in this before we put it back together. So then we have the cable to deal with and the spring hooks into the backing plate here which we can remove with that. When we take the cable off this cable will just sneak right down through the middle. On the backside of this there is a large plastic nut that holds the cable in place. Normally you can take the same pair of pliers. They usually don't prefer to put a wrench on it because half the time the wrench just rounds it out. So in this case we're gonna just work it back and forth. This one's a little tight. The thing we're gonna do is we'll put a little penetrating oil on this. Let it sit for about 10 or 15 minutes and then we'll get back to it. All right. Just so you can get a visual on this here's the end of the parking brake cable and this is basically the retainer nut that you're going to take off. This is plastic so you want to be a little careful and work it slowly. You don't want to break it if you break the plastic now you got to replace the cable. So just quickly before we show you the installation of the backing plates. What you'll see here is you'll notice the old backing plate is gone. To remove it is relatively simple. There is one, two and three bolts that hold that backing plate to the knuckle assembly and they have a 30, a number 30 Torx drive head on them. The top one very easy to get at. The two you'll notice they're actually behind the hub but if you get an extended driver you can actually put it right through the one hole in the hub and it lines right up with a bolt so you can take the bolt out. And they come out relatively easy give it a little tap if they're a little snug and they'll come right out. And then essentially you're gonna cut the old backing plate. Being it's rotted most times you can just break them out of there but if they're still solid piece left you can take a torch, cut off saw, hacksaw, whatever you have available and you're going to basically just cut that in two pieces so you can take it out. Now I will show you how the replacement goes in. Again we have our three bolts in hand. These are the three that we took out to take the old one out. You'll notice that here's your entry area for your parking brake cable. That kind of gives you a sort of an orientation point. When this closed up behind there. just kind of wiggle around a little bit until you get some openings and that goes up in place there. And the short piece up top. And what we're gonna do is we're gonna put the three bolts back in and you wanna make sure you get this set up - and one tab goes over the top. Then what we're going to do is we're going to put the three bolts in but we're gonna leave them a little bit loose and then we'll give us just a little bit of movement so that the bolts for the two retainer tabs that we added to these backing plates we're gonna line up well enough so you can put a bolt through and tighten that down. So we're gonna get that installed. Okay, so, just as described - we ran the three bolts in, we've installed the two small retainer bolts that go through the tabs, we've got the the locking style nuts on the backside so they won't back off and as you can see you got a good solid setup here. Now don't be concerned you have a gap here and that was from the cutting tool that basically separates these two. This is not a waterproof system, neither is the original okay. There are no seals or gaskets on this. The rotor just simply rides around a little baffle and literally when you're driving in the rain it gets all wet anyway so don't be concerned with this. This isn't going to mean a thing. So now we just need to install the parking brake cable and the park brake system and we're ready to put the back brakes on and we're basically got the worst part of it over and done with which is the installation of the backing plate. Alright so the next step is gonna be, we're gonna install the spring. We've got the cable slid through and the plastic nut on the back installed on there. I don't really need to show you how to do that. The spring itself you can see the last coil on the spring is slightly raised which is going to make it a little easy to install. The area that you're gonna install this on when you slide this over has a slight lip right on the edge of this open area here and we're gonna do is just you can take your thumbnail or a small straight bite screwdriver and just slide that first ring over the top and then just essentially spin the spring and it'll thread itself on. You just run it in there until you got about three or four of those coils mounted on that and that's pretty good. And then from this point we're ready to put the shoes on. What I wanted to do is just give you an idea orientation of the shoes when you go to install them. In the case of the lefthand side of course the cable comes in the bottom. The cable gets hooked to this arm. Essentially all it does is that, the end of the cable is inserted through here. There's a little sliding notch on the end there so that once you install the cable the end of that knob at the end of the cable itself passes through the knotch, pull it and it pulls this up and it's going to lock it in place and then of course you have that one little segment of that spring we just installed. It's going to loop around that hold that in place. So the arm goes on the backside of the shoe. Your larger spring is going to run across the top. Your adjustment bolt right there is going to face you and then for the orientation of the crossbar because you have a round hub here in the center, this hump in the crossbar obviously is going to face up and you have a double notch on one side. This will be on the side of the arm. So that this basically slides in like so and then this side with the spring sits in this notch right here. And that we're gonna do once we get the shoes over the hub, but I wanted to give you an idea of how you're gonna preassemble this before you go to put it together. Normally what you'll do at this point is we'll have the spring out. We're gonna hook the this shoe to the cable, then we hit the spring and then the other shoe we just take the whole thing and back right around the hub and install it. All right so just quickly before I go any further we've got the arm, the parking brake arm in place, I wanted to show you the orientation of the spring that basically comes up from underneath and you'll see that it makes a little 90-degree bend on the end and that sits right in a little notch that's cut in that retainer fork right behind the end of the cable. So just so you get an idea how that's supposed to sit when you're done. Alright so I've got the shoe in place. Basically all we did was just take the two shoes and spread them and put them right up over the, over the hub so and again look at your spring orientation. You see the crossbar or the cross piece here on the spring is down underneath this block. You don't want it rubbing up against the block. That's proper way for it to sit. So what I'm going to do now is I'm just going to sit this one shoe - I'm going to put the pin through and put the spring in and I would probably suggest as if this is your first time doing this wear safety glasses because these do have a tendency to pop off several times until you sort of get the knack on how to install them. So the pin goes in through the backing plate, goes through this slotted hole right here. There we go. All right. So this is the fun part. This is actually where a third pair of hands we definitely come in handy because you can't really compress the spring with your hands. It's just too much tension there. Alright at this point now what we've got there you got your crossbar. Now remember their orientation - the loop is basically going to be in conjunction with the hump of the hub. You want to probably do this with safety glasses. Generally I don't have a problem with these springs but now and then one may pop off and this is as I said. So let's do it this way. We're gonna slide this in here first. So that locks in. Let's put the spring back on there. And we need to lift that crossbar so it falls into that slot in the shoe. Okay here I heard everything snap into place and we're gonna line up with that hole in the back for the lockdown pin. Now the spring wants to pull the shoe away from the backing plate so we'll just install a, put a big screwdriver right here. Lock it, lock it it. That will sort of hold that from springing out while we're getting the rest of our parts. We're going to slide our pin in and that's going to go through this slotted hole right here. You want to set this up so that we've got this shoe as tight as possible up against the backing plate. There we go. Get the spring in underneath. You get some room and what you do is you put your fingers in the back and you're going to lift that, that pin so then as we compress the spring drop the pin in there to hold that and seat the head of the pin in the spring. Okay so now we got a crossbar in, we got our spring in place, now we're gonna do now at this point is install the bottom spring and the adjuster. Alright I showed you how to lock the springs in. We got the top spring in, the two clips. What we need to do now is we're going to spread the bottom. We're gonna install the small spring and the adjuster. Now just to give you a breakdown you've got one barrel on one side has the notch that's going to sit into the tab at the bottom of the shoe. The other side has the same thing. But I should be able to turn this piece here in here. So obviously this one is locked up so I'm gonna have a hard time adjusting it. So we're gonna soak this, we're going to clean it up, soak it down with penetrating oil. If yours is damaged or locked up to the point you can't turn it, again these parts are also available separately from the kit but they are available. So we're gonna free this up first before we install it. Alright so we're going to install the lower spring and see the two holes on each side on the bottom. Hold that up in there. Put this screwdriver, small pry bar, whatever you want to use, and we're gonna go up against the bottom of the shoe and we'll spread that out some so that we can install the adjuster and it doesn't matter which side you put this adjuster on. So you want to get that slot up in there, and then there and then we'll just turn this until it lines up and drops in. Just to double check. Okay and we're in. Just wanted before I put the rotor back on I want to show you a finished product of how the how these parking brake shoes should look when they're done. With your spring in place it's not over the front of this block its underneath. Crossbar. Spring is in place. The pins and then of course your adjuster and your retainer spring on the bottom. So adjusters should be all the way in so that the shoes are close together. I've got the shoes fairly well centered so now at this point we can put the rotor, on the retainer bolt and then do the adjustment on the parking brake. All right so we're gonna spin the rotor around so that your inspection hole lines up with the adjusting knob that we installed earlier, sits at the bottom of the shoes on this, and we're gonna turn this until it locks the rotor right up. Until we can't turn it and this just spins and you'll feel it start to tension up and you want to really give it, you really want to lock it in there. Take the same screwdriver and then we're gonna put it here. You can see we can't turn the wheel. So then we're now going to go back - now you can do this one of two ways. You can take a small little bit of chalk or some little paint or whatever and you can mark that knurl, that knob that we're spinning, and you're gonna go one full turn or what we'll do is we back it down 8th clicks. One. two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Which is the equivalent of one full turn. So we should be able to spin the rotor. You're gonna hear a very slight drag and then the other step to this is we're gonna line up with that little adjustment bolt that we talked about earlier. We can see that right in there and it's going to be a number five allen head. We're gonna install. We're gonna loosen that nut a little bit and they tell you just basically just tap on the rotor - it centers everything up. We'll lock it back down and then our adjustment will be done. So we've done our adjustment and then last but not least don't forget your little inspection plug. That just keeps the excess and like I said earlier this is not a waterproof system. This little plug isn't gonna keep all the water and dirt out but it is there just to keep out major debris. So now we have our shoes installed, the rotor is on. Now is just a matter of get our brakes back together and we're ready to go. All right so at this point we're gonna put the brakes on and you may or may not be replacing your brakes when you take it apart so what we're gonna do is we're actually going to replace the rear brakes on this while we have this going. So first thing you want to do before you put your caliper mount back on make sure that the pins that you support the caliper bolt to you want to make sure those are nice and free and that they move in and out. The pads do come with the zinc sliders so we've got those popped in place. Now the pads I'll do a quick explanation. You're going to find that two pads have this paper backing, two pads do not. Normally we've always found that this one which has sort of an adhesive on it is going to be on the outside resting up against the two flat areas of the caliper. So just so you know when you pull it apart you know which pad to put. So without the adhesive on the inside, with the adhesive pad you're gonna peel that off before you install the caliper itself and that one gets run on the outside. So I'm just going to set this down in, run the two bolts in the back. Alright and last but not least we have the caliper itself. Now remember when we first pulled it out we had completely collapsed the piston so now we should be able to just install this over the the new pads and in the course of the doing the rather repairs and whatnot it may work its way out just a little bit so you can always squeeze that back in with a large pair of pliers. So here we have the outer pad with the paper removed so we have the sticky adhesive and it's not even really a strong adhesive and they just put it there to try to help eliminate squealing. So we'll slide our caliper over. We'll have to push our back pins in. I usually start with the top one because that's the easiest to get at and once you get that started it'll sort of line you up for the bottom one. And there'll be a little spring tension on. Pop that in. And you may need to wiggle it around a little bit to get the bolt seated in the threads. Give a few turns. Okay we're in place so all we need now is just our two wrenches and tighten those two bolts up. Alright so you've seen how to assemble the backing plates the parking brakes we've done the parking brake adjustment. We've got our pads in place, calipers back in place. All we need at this point is we put our wheel back on, take the vehicle for a drive. We'll get the brakes worn in just a little bit. But for the most part that's how you're gonna do an assembly and replace those rotted old backing plates. So when you're ready to do so just contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 And thanks for watching.
When the rear brake backing plate starts to rot where the pins for the parking brake shoes are retained, it is important to replace this item to avoid further damage to your braking system. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he uses our NEW Split Shell Design and explains the process involved in replacing the rear brake backing plates for a Range Rover Full Size 2003 - 2005 (L322). Our money-saving kit #PARKBRAKIT01 (includes the left and right brake backing plates and connecting hardware, and parking brake shoes). What makes this rear brake backing plate kit special from the original is the new split shell two-piece design we use. With the original design, to access to replace you must disassemble part of the rear suspension, etc., which could involve damaging some components (through removal). You will avoid this with our kit at installation, since we work around those components. In this video, you will also see Doug remove and re-install the parking brake shoes and connect cable. This service is also valid on the Range Rover Full Size 2006-'09. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to the live chat.
Part #: PARKBRAKIT01 Replacement of Rear Brake Backing Plate with NEW Split Shell Design on Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a new and innovative component that we've developed for the Full Size Land Rovers. This is for the 2003 to 2005, the L322s, which now are starting to show their age. And what's happening is we've run into a few where the backing plates are starting to rot where the pins for the park brake shoes are retained. And what happens is the pins pull through and then the shoes ride on rotor and then they overheat and you end up with a very expensive repair. But to replace those backing plates, which are a 1 piece, you have to disassemble part of the rear suspension, which can also involve breaking some components like taking the wheel bearing apart as you're removing it. Or trying to get the park brake cable out of the knuckle. So, what we've done is come up with a 2 piece backing plate replacement. Once you remove the old backing plate which you can twist and remove, you can install the 2 piece without having to take the knuckle apart, or any of the other major components. Now this new kit, which is on our website under part number PARKBRAKIT01. And what you get with the kit is both a left and right hand side backing plate. Reason you get both is generally if one's rotted the other one isn't too far behind it. Might as well do both, get them done. You also get new parking brake shoes. And then nuts, bolts and hardware to install and bolt the 2 plates together, along with the 4 original bolts that are in the knuckle assembly. Should you need the additional hardware we do have those also available on our website. So what we're going to do is know we're going to put the Full Size up in the air. We're going to show you how to install these and show you how easy it is to repair that that backing plate.We got our new hardware in. Now all we need to do at this point is put the rotor back on. Put your brakes together. Just follow the, reverse the procedure we showed you earlier as far as taking them apart. Double check your hardware. Your 2 bolts on the back of the caliper and the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper mount. Make sure they're good and tight. And you're good to go. Check your adjustment on your parking brakes. We have shown you on earlier versions and other videos. Just simple when you put your rotor on and lock it down, you're going to turn that adjuster until that shoe becomes good and tight, you can't turn the rotor. And then back off 8 notches, or 1 full turn of the adjuster and that will set your parking brake adjustment just where it needs to be. So, when you're ready to change over the backing plates should these pins rot or the pin areas and you need to change these over without having to disassemble half the rear end, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he walks you through the intuitive iCarSoft LR II system. This video showcase the V.1.0 model tool. The latest version is the V.2.0 Diagnostic Tool and is very similar in form and function to V.1.0 (with a few more functions, bells and whistles!) iCarsoft Multi-system Scanners support full system diagnosis for Land Rover vehicles. They enable technicians and Do-It-Yourselfers to accurately diagnose complex problems. Multi-system Scanner supports full system diagnosis. It’s a powerful diagnostic tool.
An Overview Using The LR II Multi-System Diagnostic Tool by iCarsoft (LR-II) For Land Rover & Jaguar Vehicles (2nd Generation)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going to do is touch base on a diagnostic tool that we carry in our line. The iCarSoft LR II. Now this is a tool that's come out that's specifically designed to access Land Rover modules, and not just your OBD II, but can also get into ABS, your air suspension if you have the later models that are equipped with that, actually a number of modules depending on which vehicle or which Land Rover you're working on. So just to give you basics, we've got this unit plugged in. This is the screen that's going to come up. And this is with the ignition key on. You're going to let the vehicle go through its self test. Most of the newer Land Rover vehicles go through an initial self test. Only takes a few seconds. We're plugged in, and we have power. Now before we get into the modules, I just want to give you an idea of some of the other capabilities of this. If we scroll over to settings, you have an up down side to side arrows. We'll hit okay. And with this you can change the language, the unit of measure, and even turn the beeper on and off. So say we go to unit of measure, and hit okay. You can either go to metric or imperial. We can back out of that. As far as language you can see it actually will translate to a number of different languages. So we're going to leave it up in English. And we hit escape to back out. And we do that again. Now on the help side, this gives you a lot of information. First line is going to tell you initially give you the location of your diagnostic link connector is located. Then below it we have the DTC library, which you can type in the codes that you're getting and it will give you the definition. It will look that unit up. We'll hit escape. What it will also do is explain abbreviations. So when you get into some of the live data, you're going to see explanations or abbreviations. So say we go to ECT, we want to find out what that is. It will tell you it's a coolant temperature sensor. It will tell you how it's normally displayed. Here it will run from minus 40 to 215 degrees Celsius. Or minus 40 to 419 degrees Fahrenheit. And again it will tell you many of the diesel engines, they don't include this sensor. So, again it gives you good information on what you're looking at. So we'll hit escape and back out of that. And we'll hit that again. Tool information is simply going to tell you what software you have in here. Serial Number of the unit. Registration Code which you may need later on if you're going to do updates. Which you can do on these without having to send these in.Heating and ventilation. Basically run on down the line. So when you just get to the one that you're looking for. Let's look at transfer box. Again we'll look at, okay. And essentially this is going to give you versions. We'll scroll down to data stream. And basically just on that particular transfer case there's 4 different functions you can view. So this gives you an idea essentially of what this is capable of doing. This does not do any programming. But it will help you keep you from chasing your tail trying to figure out what's going on with your Land Rover without having to spend a lot of money on parts that maybe you don't really need. This tool will at least help you work your way in and pinpoint what the problem is, or at least give you the fault codes which, based on the technology on today's vehicles you need to, otherwise you'll just be chasing your tail trying to figure out what's wrong with them. So, when you're in the market for a reader, and you'll find that this is very reasonably priced compared to what it will do, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to set you up with one of these. Thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Four Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Four of our video how-to series, as he removes and replaces the weak sill finishers that stretch beneath the D2's doors. Doug then upgrades with and installs all-steel, body-mounted rock sliders, essential in protecting the doors and wings from bending or breaking under stress when off-roading. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Four: Installing Rock Sliders Part # 9596D2Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. Now we've got the steel bumpers, both front and rear which is going to give you better protection on your vehicle, front and rear. But what do we do about the sides? So what we're going to do is add a set of rock sliders on this. We're going to take the plastic trim that's underneath the doors on both sides of the vehicle and replace them with steel bars that are solidly mounted to the vehicle so that if you should come across a high rock or a high log, you make contact, you're not going to do any damage or break plastic trim. It's going to protect the vehicle. Plus it has the added feature where you have the holes already pre drilled so if you have your hi jack with you, you have a mount to put the hi jack on if you need to raise the vehicle and get it clear of an obstacle. This kit which is the 9596D2 is going to give you the 2 side sliders, the mounting brackets, and all the hardware. It's a relatively simple installation, it does take some time, probably anywhere from 2 to 4 hours, depending on your level of technical skill. But overall, if you're going to be taking these vehicles off road, you definitely want the extra protection. So we're going to show you how to mount these on the vehicle and take it from there. Now our first step is going to be obviously we need to take the plastic trim that sits in the door sills off first to get it out of the way. This is where we're going to be putting the rock sliders. Now what you have only holding this on is, up front there's a small stud with a 10 millimeter nut on it. And we're just going to put a ratchet with a deep socket. We'll take that off. More than likely that's going to snap off when you go to remove that. And so, not a big deal, you're not going to be using it in the installation of the rock sliders.1 bolt front. 1 bolt rear. And the rock slides are in. So let's get those in. Let's get those drilled out. Remember when you're drilling, especially if it's above your head always wear safety glasses. I've had enough steel taken out of my eyes. It's not worth it. Make sure you put them on. So, that's what's involved in putting rock sliders on the side of your D2. It definitely gives you a lot of extra protection. It certainly more stress and stability than what you're going to have with just the plastic sill panel. So if you really like to go out and do some serious 4 wheeling, these are an absolute necessity. Maybe it will take you 3, maybe 4 hours depending on your mechanical skill to be able to install them as we just did. Once they're on they're good and solid, they're going to give you plenty of protection. And again, you've got the cutouts already in there, so should you need the hi jack you've got a lift point. So, when you're ready to put the rock sliders on your D2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Five Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Five of our video how-to series, as he installs front (TF838 ) and rear (TF839 ) differential guards on our project D2. Doug will discuss the importance of adding protection to your front and rear differentials if you intend on using your D2 for off-road. When off-roading, these guards will add an extra layer of protection to your vehicle's underside. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Five: Installing Front & Rear Differential Guards (TF838 &TF839)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And as we continue on with Project D2, we're on to the next step. And what we have next in line is going to be the pair of differential guards, the front and rear diffs. Something that a lot of the guys overlook, but should you ever put a rock though your differential case and you want to be able to make it home, these would be advised to go that route. These will protect the differentials. They are cast metal so they can be dented. They can be punctured so to speak if you catch a good rock. So these are actually a good add on to add to your vehicle. We're trying to turn this into a really high level off-road vehicle, these will definitely assist in doing that. So what we have here is the front guard which is Terrafirma. This is the TF838. This comes with the bracket, 1 extra mounting bracket and your hardware. We have the rear kit, the TF839. Again with your guard, your attachment bracket and the hardware you need to attach that. The instructions are fairly simple. They do come with the kits. But we're going to show you basically how to install them right on our Project D2. Alright. Just to show you a test fit. You put the front guard over, we're going to slide that over in place. Now some vehicles may have a guard that loops around this back drag link, right at the back of the diff. And some don't. Now in this case this one does not. But there are 2 pre-drilled tap holes at the very end of the differential for that bracket. And we're going to use those 2 holes for the attachment in the back on the bottom. Now if it does not have that bracket, there's a good chance that those holes, and we're going to come around and we're going to show you those in just a second, id they're filled with mud or dirt or whatnot, you want to tap those out so that we have a nice clean thread when we go to put it in. The other thing you're going to want to do, and it even mentions it in the instructions, if you test slide this. Essentially you're going to be looking at how this bracket attaches to the back of this cover, and then these 2 holes will automatically line up with 2 top bolts in the back side of the diff. You're going to take those bolts out and then this gets bolted back in its place. So if you're not sure which 2 to take off, you can just test fit the bracket towards the back, it's going to line up with the 2. Those are the 2 you're going to remove and it's even listed in the instructions. Now just quickly too, I'm going to mention, they actually give you a list of tools required, before you go to install it. So it would be a good idea to dig these tools out and have these ready for you before you install. You have a 9/16th deep socket or spanner wrench, you can use either. 15 millimeter socket. And you can do that in either half inch or 3/8th inch drive. A 13 millimeter wrench. A ratchet for your socket. Again, 3/8th or half inch. And then a 6 to 12 inch extension. Those tools will easily install this cover. It's just a matter of a few bolts. Now on some of these vehicles you're going to have a U shaped bracket that wraps around this drag link and they're going to be bolted through to these 2 holes right here. You can see that this vehicle did not come equipped with it, and sure enough, the holes have gotten dirt and mud packed up inside there. You don't want to run the bolts for the new bracket up in there, so you're just simply going to take a chaser, and you can get a socket that fits the backside. That makes it a little bit easier. And you're just basically going to run it up in there and you're going to want to clean that mud out of there. Doesn't even hurt to spray a little bit of penetrating lube in there, and as that drips out it's going to take a lot of the dirt and garbage that's built up in there out. You may have to run it a couple times in there until you don't really feel much grit as you run through there. I can actually see it fall out of the hole as I run this in. And it goes in fairly easy because we're just dealing with a little bit of dirt. Alright. Going to shoot a little penetrating oil in there and the essentially all we need to do with this is we're going to take the 2 top bolts out. We're going to line up the bracket. We're going to see that we are basically dealing with there's a bolt that if you're facing the back of the differential you have a bolt at say 11:30 and another bolt at 1 o'clock. You're going to take those 2 out. Insert your bracket. Put your main bracket on. Run the 2 bolts. You're basically done. Alright, so, before we tighten everything up and this it what I wanted to explain, put the shields on, don't go tightening everything first thing. I put to 2 bolts on, lock them on. You want to basically get all the bolts started. You have the 2 bolts here in the back. The threads have been cleaned out. They're started. You have the bolt and the flat washer. And then up top, where the small accessory bracket bolts on, we've got the 2 bolts in the diff back in place. Couple threads started there. And then we've got the 2 nuts and bolts that hold the accessory bracket onto the guard itself. Now with everything being loose, we've got everything started. Now we can just tighten it all up and you're going to be in and then we're going to do the rear as well. Alright, so we're going to do the rear, and essentially what I'm going to do is hang it in place because the application is the same as the front. You've got 2 bolts down here at the very bottom of the differential case. These 2 bolts actually hold an anti-vibration weight on here. Some vehicles may have it, some may not. But if you have it, you run the 2 bolts out we're going to be starting with clean thread so it shouldn't be a problem there. And again the shield wraps around. You have a small add-on bracket on top and you're going to run those are going to line up with 2 top bolts on the differential, you're going to run the 2 nuts and bolts from the bracket to the add-on bracket. And essentially tighten everything down exactly like we did with the front. So I'll set everything in place, and we'll give you a look at it before we tighten everything up. So here we are with the back plate in place. As I said it's the same application as the front. You just have these 2 nuts and bolts that hold the 2 brackets together. You have the front of the small bracket being held by 2 bolts in the front of the pumpkin. And then on the bottom what we've done is omit that heavy weight that's back there and installed the bottom of this plate in place of that weight. As I said because that bolts already in there, you didn't have to go through the tap and die and all that. We blew penetrating oil and it ran right in. So you have a good solid protection there. Plus they give you access holes. So if you need to do a drain, which your drain plug is right here, and your fill plug here, you can still do maintenance without having to take the cover back off, which is a definite plus. So when you're ready to upgrade, put diff guards on your D2, and as again, follow along with us as we go along with Project D2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six (Extra 1) Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 1) of our video how-to series, as he installs the Baja Rack Jerry Can Holder on our project D2. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 1):Installing Jerry Can Holder To Baja Rack (BAJAFCH)Hi I'm Doug, you're tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. Now if you have been following the project, we've done a video showing the cargo rack for the Baja Rack for the top of the D2. And we mentioned that we were also going to be adding some accessories to it. One of the first accessories we're going to do - and this is a very popular item - is the Jerry Can holder. Now this unit can be mounted on either an open grid top like this one or it will even work on a mesh top cargo carrier or you can even use them on any of those mesh based add ons that will hook up to your trailer hitch. You've seen them mounted on the back of vehicles, it just simply looks like a tray. But this will mount on those as well. And it's a very easy installation, there's just several nuts and bolts. And what you have is a base bracket that can be mounted right on top. They give you the 2 clamps that will grab underneath and grab the side rail along with 4 additional clamps that grab underneath the cross rails. And they do a nice job because they also put foam inserts on all the brackets so they're not going to scratch up the metal on your cargo rack. You get all your hardware and they even give you a tube of grease so that you grease up the bolts when you put it together because this is exposed to the elements if you ever want to change its position or move it, with the grease bolts it's going to come out a lot easier. So it's nice that they put that thought into it. So this is a relatively easy installation. We have this on the ground so we can show you basically the location. Something you want to consider is that when you put a cargo rack on top you're obviously going to have a ladder in the back on the vehicle. So you don't want to put this where it's going to be blocking your access to the ladder. So in this case, the Discovery 2, the ladder is going to be coming up in the rear left corner, so we're going to mount this bracket over here so it's out of the way and you still have full access to the rack. So we're going to bolt this down and we're going to show you what it looks like completed. All right, so now we have the bracket mounted up. What I did is I'm going to show you on the bottom how the brackets looks. You have 4 cross braces underneath and along with the 2 clips that bolt on that grab around the side rail. So between the 4 mounts and the 2 add ons that grab the rail, that bracket's not going anywhere. That's a good solid hook up. So now we're going to set this down. And we're going to show you how to mount the jerry cans. All right, so here's the top view of bracket and how it's going to lay on top of the cargo carrier. And then we're going to take our first jerry can and set that in just like so. We'll clip this on. That will hold that in place. And then the second can. And we recommend when you put the cans in, obviously your open area, your opening is going to be up and not down. Lay our top brace on. And then we just thread in that large screw. You don't have to crush it. Just get it snug so that there's no free play or moving around. We'll set that in place. And then there's a safety precaution. They also give you a large washer and we put in a clip to make sure that can't back off all the way. So there you are. Your jerry cans are in place. Nice and secure. Not going anywhere. And it definitely adds to the look of the cargo. So when you're ready to add you jerry can adapter to your Baja Rack, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six (Extra 2) Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 2) of our video how-to series, as he installs the Hi-Lift Bracket to the Baja Roof Rack on our project D2. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 2): Installing Hi-Lift Jack Bracket To Baja Rack (BAJAHILBRK)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British and welcome back to Project D2. And in this video we're going to show you the mounting brackets for the Baja Rack that we installed on an earlier video so we can put a Hi Jack on top of that, or actually the side of the rack. No these things can actually be invaluable if you are doing any rock climbing or hard area 4 wheeling because you can get yourself stuck. These will get you out. And it's nice to have one mounted on the side of the rack so you can have easy access to it. Now again, like I've said, we've all ready installed the jerry cans. You can refer back to that video. And we have more coming. So again, these brackets are very easy to install. Should only take several minutes. This particular kit all you need is a 9/16th wrench, a socket and ratchet and you can have them installed within 15, 20 minutes. And it's easy enough where one bracket is going to sit right up against the side of the rail. You have a back bracket and what's nice about it too is they've actually put a heavy foam insulator on both sides so that it doesn't scratch up your Baja rack. That just lays in place. We have 2 bolts that go through. We're going to tighten this one and then we have another bracket, identical to it, that mounts down the other end. And that one we're going to leave a little bit loose. And we're going to test fit the hi jack to it so that it lines up with the holes that are in the frame of the hi jack. We'll slide it into position. Lock it down. And essentially at that point you are done. So we're going to mount these up and then we're going to show you how these look when we're done. Alright, now essentially this is your finished product. You only had to install 4 bolts. We have this bracket here. We've got this bracket here and we've left this a little bit loose so that we can maneuver it so that it will line up with the holes. And then we test fit the hi jack to make sure that those line up and now we can just tighten 2 bolts on this end. And then what you're going to do to finish the job to hold it in place. You've got the 2 wing brackets, these are also foam lined so they don't scratch up your hi jack. And that's going to go there with a washer. And a wing nut. And we'll just run that on finger tight, but still get it tight enough where it's going to hold it in place and keep it from rattling around. And then as a safety precaution, put the pins on so god forbid the bolt should back off, the pin is going to keep you from losing your hi jack on the road. So essentially there you are. So when you're ready to add a hi lift onto your off road vehicle, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six of our video how-to series, as he installs the Baja Roof Rack on our project D2. Doug will discuss how the addition of the roof rack will give you more storage space when you take your D2 off-roading. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six: Installing Baja Rack (BAJAD12)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. What we have here is a Baja Rack, which is essentially just an additional storage rack that mounts on top of the vehicle to give you additional space and to get items that don't need to be carried around inside up top for easier accessibility. Especially some of your off road equipment. Now what you see here is the unit that we're going to be mounting on our Discovery 2 for our Project D2, if you've been following the videos. And essentially what this is going to do it is going to add to what they consider a lifestyle function. Now you'll notice that the front of the rack actually contours down and sort of blends into the contour of the vehicle, which is going to give it a much better look. It's a large rack. It looks heavy. And it is built very well. But it is light enough where 2 adults can easily pick it up and put it on top of the vehicle. You have 4 additional brackets in the front where you can mount additional lighting. You have an air deflector in the front. And in the back you'll notice 2 additional brackets that are thoughtfully drilled out where you can add either another accessory bolt on or you could put auxiliary lighting on. Now again like I said, this is an easy installation. We're going to show you the pads on how these mount in. And basically this is exactly how it came out of the box. With all the hardware and everything all ready mounted on it. All right we're going to show you exactly how this mounts on. You actually take 2 people, 4 would be better, but 2 is excellent. It will work. Set this on top of the vehicle so that essentially this padded area, right here, is going to fall in to the groove of the rain gutter. This outer piece right here, with the 90 degree bend, is going to grab around the rain gutter, and grab from underneath. And you can adjust that by running this bolt up or down which is going to change the height position of the bracket. And essentially go around and do all 4. And what they normally recommend is on the front bracket, which is adjustable, you're going to run this up high, get the other 3 set up, and then you loosen these bolts, drop this down so it seats in the gutter. And then wrap this around the gutter itself. And essentially it's just a matter of tighten the top bolt to bring this piece up to pinch it in place. The instructions will give you a specific torque to set them to. For the best application. And once that's done you're going to take an allen wrench and you're going to tighten these front pieces. These small screws right here and that's going to essentially lock that in to place so it can't back off. And that's really all there is to it. This whole installation, it will probably take you longer to take it out of the box than it is to mount it up on top of your vehicle. Now we're going to tell you to stayed tuned because we have other videos that we're going to show you how you can mount and add on accessories to this, to give you the full off road experience. All right, so now with a couple friends we've picked up the rack and set it on top. I'm going to recommend that you take the vertical bolts and all the clamp brackets out before you do that because they really don't pull away with enough clearance so that you can easily move the rack around and set it in place. We've taken them all out. It doesn't take very long. And then once you've set it up on top you're going to notice that the front bracket has 2 bolts on it that allows you to take this plate and move it up and down. And that's essentially what you're going to do, is once the 3 in the back have settled in, you can move this around. Seat that. You'll feel that you're seated at the bottom of this rain gutter. And then we're just going to tighten those down and snug it into position. That's with a half inch wrench. So now you've got that into position. Now what you're going to also find is these little studs right here can come right out. They just have a stud and a nut. These are the lock downs for the vertical bolts. And what you want to do with these to make it easier on your installation, you'll see that the back of the stud has a point on it. So we're going to run that down so that that point is just inside the outer edge of the nut. And that's going to give you the most amount of clearance when you go to put the vertical bolt back in So that we can put the clamps on. And we're going to show you how to do that in just a second. Now as you can see there's nothing that really holds that in place. So you want to extend this out as far as possible. So that is doesn't drop out as it did here. And we'll just pop that back in before we put the bolt in. So we're going to move to the back and show you how to install the vertical bolts and the hold down clamps. All right, so, you have a vertical bolt, a large black washer and a clamp. And a I've said we've run the lock down stud so just the back of the stud is flush with the outer edge of the nut. So we have enough room to slide this down. Once we get passed the pole we can angle that out a little bit. And just essentially, and what's nice too is this is like a foam rubber lining in here so that when this clamps up to the rain gutter it's not going to scratch everything up. So just line up your threads and start your bolt. Then what we're going to do is get a 9/16th wrench and we'll turn that in until this clamp comes up and locks down. And then we just take the small hex driver and spin that in until that locks down. All right, so just want to show you the finished product. So we got our bolt in. Don't worry about it if this black washer is not lined up perfect with the bracket. It's fine. It's just there as a washer. We're threaded down in. We've got the clamp tight. You don't have to make it too tight, in fact, when you read the instructions there is actually a specified torque. I would use the torque rating to hold everything down. There is also a torque rating for the lock down screws. Just make sure you read the instructions. It will give you the specifications in there. And that's essentially all you need to do. Now we're just going to walk around and do the other 7. And this rack is on and secure and it's not going anywhere. So when you're ready to expand the cargo area of your D2 or basically any of your Land Rovers, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 3) of our video how-to series, as he adds the Baja Rack Axe and Shovel Bracket to the Baja Roof Rack on our project D2. Please note the Shovel is sold separately as SLI515 . Please refer questions and comments about this video to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 3): Installing Axe &Shovel Bracket To Baja Rack (BAJAAXSHBRCKT)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about another addition to our D2 Project, is the shovel. We've all ready got our hi jack, and we've got our Jerry Cans. But you can't go off roading without a shovel. You get in some soft sand, some dirt, whatever. This is a very handy tool to have. It's an easy mount. It's just 2 brackets through each of the side mounts. And they are going to hang exactly like the hi jack mount that we did earlier. And it's just a matter of being pinched onto the side rails of the cargo carrier. And as you can see they do the same with this. You have a nice dense foam insulation on all the corners and the areas where it makes contact with the cargo carrier so it doesn't scratch it all up. You've got all the hardware to install. And they also give you a little pack of grease. They recommend you put a little grease on all the threads as you put this together. So should you ever want to take it back out they're not going to be rusted in place. Especially if you live in areas where there is a lot of salt laid down over the course of the Winter. It's not hard for this stuff to rust up. So it's good to have a little protection on the threads. So what we're going to do is show you how to mount this up, put the shovel in place and get started. All right, so, to begin with, we're going to take 1 bolt, put a washer on the bolt. Set this down right here for now. Then we put our bolt through our back bracket. Set that in place right like so. And what I like to do is set this up so that you'll see that this is manufactured at an angle so that the stud is slightly up, which makes it easier when you go to put things on. It will stay in place, as opposed to putting this upside down and pointing down where everything can drop out. So then we'll run another washer. And we'll put a nut on there. And these are a nylon stop nut, which means you don't need a lock washer. They'll actually lock themselves in place once you tighten them down. Then we'll take the bottom bolt. That through. Washer. Now you'll also notice, you're getting a good look at the bracket right here, you've got 2 areas to hold tools. Upper and a lower. So we're going to put the shovel in the upper. But you still end up with an extra opening on there so if you want to put an axe or another long tool, something else you want to bring along, you can lock that in there as well. So they give you that room to do that. So then we're just going to take 2 9/16th wrenches. I use a ratcheting box wrench and a regular box wrench to hold the head of the bolt. And we'll just run that in until it's good and tight. All right so, we've got our 2 brackets in place. They're locked down pretty good. We're going to put the shovel in the top part. I kind of like to do that because should this get out of my hand or whatnot we've got the 2 studs to sort of catch it. So we're just going to set that there. Put the 1st bracket on. Flat washer. And a big wing nut. Again you want to put some of that grease on the threads. Because obviously of you are out in the woods and you haven't moved your shovel in a while, and these threads rust up you are going to have a hard time getting the shovel off. So a little grease on the threads definitely makes it easier. And we'll put the back one on. And like I said you can see you've got an opening left here when you can put another tool. It's nice having that option. Some guys like to carry an axe. If you have a long handled axe it will fit pretty well in there. And again you have the foam protection in there so it keeps it from getting the tool itself and the hangars and the storage rack from getting all scratched up. And then the safety pins. Just in case the wing nut backs out. It can't go any where. You're not going to lose the tool. So there you go. You've got the shovel mounted. We have our Jerry Cans. Our Project D2 is coming together pretty well. So when you are ready to add accessories to your storage rack on your D2 or any other Land Rover just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Five (Extra) Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Five (Extra) of our video how-to series, as he removes and replaces the standard panhard rod and steering rod assemblies on our project D2. Doug then upgrades with and installs Terrafirma all-steel, heavy-duty models, designed to withstand the stresses of off-roading. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Five (Extra):Installing Panhard Rod Assembly / Steering Rod with Draglink Part # TF254 or TF256 / Part # TF255Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. So we've done enough where we've looked at body protection, where we've added the steel bumpers and rock sliders and what not, but now we're going to look at protecting some of the components underneath. Probably one of the most important is going to be steering rods. Now you'll notice that the original equipment rods are pretty well exposed. Both the panhard rod and the draglink and then your steering rod underneath. You catch a rock or a good size log or what not, it'll put a severe bend in one of those, and now your tires are pointing in and out, you are probably going to need a tow truck to get home. So what we want to do is we want to strengthen those areas as well to minimize any damage to the front end. So we're going to do that be installing the Terrafirma panhard rod, and the draglink and steering rods. Now the draglink and the steering rods come together as a kit, part number TF255, and what you get is both those pieces along with a universal bracket that bolts on for the steering damper. The panhard rod. Now you have to make sure that you order that proper one. On the Discovery 2's the TF254 is going to fit 1999 to 2002, and the TF256 is going to be for 2003 and 2004. There's slight differences so you don't want to get those mixed up. So, you'll notice that these are considerably heavier in size. Not only that the panhard rod can be adjusted so that can actually change the position of your front axle. So keep in mind that after installing these, it is strongly recommended you bring the vehicle down to an alignment shop and have them do a tow set on the vehicle so that your tires are properly aligned and so you get good tire wear. So, this is what you're going to need to stiffen it up, and I'm going to show you how to install it.And again when you go to turn the nuts in, these are a nylon lock nut. So when you go to run the nut in, we're going to put a bar over the top of this and put some pressure on it so that the tapered fitting on the tire rod sits in to the knuckle, gives it a good tight fit. And we'll have a good chance of the tie rod not spinning around. Alright, so, what we've done now is we've got the back steering rod installed, the nuts are tightened down, like I say we have adjusted it so that the length was as close as possible to the one that we took out of there. And then just take an inch and sixteenth wrench and lock down on the 2 nuts that will hold this rod from spinning. And just snug it. You don't have to make them super tight. And again I'm just going to reiterate you got it as close as possible, but it's still advisable, take this to an alignment shop. Have them do the toe set. Have them center the front axle. You'll end up with a lot better tire wear, a lot better handling. So when you're ready to beef up the steering on your D2 Project, just give any of our knowledgeable salesmen a call at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Two (Extra) Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Two (Extra) of our video how-to series, as he adds and installs Swivel Recovery Point Shackles from Terrafirma to the front heavy duty steel bumper to use as pull hooks for towing and recovery. You will need to order quantity two (2) part # TFSRP for this installation. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Two (Extra): Install Terrafirma Swivel Recovery Point Shackles On Front Steel Bumper Part # TFSRPHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. Welcome back to Project D2. And what we've done now is we've installed a steel bumper and the winch, and the only thing we really need now in the front are a set of pull hooks, so God forbid you should get buried in the mud, you've got something to hook up to and pull it out. So what we have is a swivel point recovery shackle. This is made by Terrafirma. We do stock this on our website under the part name TFSRP. You get a pair of these. And what you do is they're installed into holes that are already pre drilled in the bumper. And this will actually, you'll find that most of these holes already pre drilled in a lot of other manufacturers besides Terrafirma, which is nice because then you can use these regardless. And all you really need to do to install them. Now one thing I will mention is the steel bumpers, is the steel bumper that we have in the rear already has pull hooks on it, welded on it. The front does not come with them. So if you want something to hook up to you want these. And to install them, relatively easy, you only need 2 tools. Use a ratchet and a 10 millimeter allen, and what we're going to do is pull the swivel bolt out, which will release the hook from the post. And you can feel just by the weight these are pretty heavy duty units. Bumper gives you an access hole underneath so that you lift and push that pin from the inside. And then a snap ring is all you really need to hold it in place. So a good set of snap ring pliers, spread that on, you can actually hold the post, you don't have to worry about getting anything behind it again. Once we get it on that far we can slide it the rest of the way. Until we hear it snap in place. Just keep pushing that a little bit at a time. And we'll hear it. There we go. Make sure it's seated all the way around. And that's all you need. You dont have to worry about this being just a thin snap ring, because essentially any time you use this it's going to be in pull mode, not push, so that's not going any where. Plus the fact is once you put the swivel hook back on, it's not going anywhere. Just re install this. Now, what you can do, just give this a little bit of, don't even have to be really tight. We just need to just get it so that the bolt is not going to back off. It still allows you to swivel that shackle as you can see you have really good versatility on it. Pretty much put this at any angle. Going down the road, if you want, and you don't want the hook to be banging against the bumper, you go another half turn to three quarters turn. You'll feel it locked down, and that will keep that hook from banging around down there. So this gives you really good versatility. It's a good piece to have on the front of your bumper. So, when you're ready to add on a pair of swivel quick recovery shackles, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Three Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Three of our video how-to series, as he discusses options to consider when upgrading to Off-Road Wheels and Tires. Atlantic British Ltd. offers two such options: 1) Terrafirma Beadlock Wheels with Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar Bead Tires - Kit # 8924K ; and 2) Steel Wheels with General Grabber AT2 Tires - Kit # 8888K. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Three: Install Off-Road Wheels and Tires, Options to ConsiderHi I'm Doug, and welcome back to Project D2. One of the biggest improvements you can make on your vehicle once you have the lift kit in is going to be tires and wheels. Obviously you can go with an on / off road combination, or you can go with strictly off road. All depends on what you're going to use the vehicle for. But in this case what we've done is because we're going to be showing this vehicle around, and we'd like to be able to show its versatility, we've installed an on / off road combination. Where we've gone with a tire where we stepped it up to a LT2657516 tire. Not LT designates light truck which is going to be a higher load range, it's going to be a tougher tire. And you can tell by the aggressive tread pattern this is going to be good in mud and dirt. These tires, this combination, with the steel wheels in the center cap, which we stock, will actually give you some good off road grabability. You have a nice aggressive tread pattern on there. Should you decide to go off road only, or, as some guys do, carry an extra set of wheels and tires for off road only will be with the Terrafirma beadlock wheels, and then we've gone with the Wrangler MTRs, kevlars, in the same size, which is an LT2657516. Now the reason for the beadlock is that in aggressive off road riding, especially if you're around rocks and logs, there's the possibility of the bead being pushed off the tire, which is going to leave you with a flat tire out in the middle of the woods. Not a good situation. So the beadlock will lock the bead to the tire to the wheel, make it a lot harder for that to happen. Secondly, because of the kevlar sidewall on these tires they are a lot less prone to abrasive cuts, rocks, I mean let's face it, you have a lot of sharp objects out there you can scrub a sidewall on and pop a tire. And again, you want to try and avoid that situation as much as possible. You're out there off roading, you want to enjoy yourself. Do it with a set of tires that will get you home and back. So, what we've done to is these are available through us, as a kit, which is our 8924K kit. And the reason being is that the beadlocks are very hard to install, and we have a local shop that will install them for us. So you can buy them as a kit with the tires already mounted on the beadlock. You'll use your original center caps. And it will come with the lug nuts so you can mount them up on the vehicle. And if you keep tabs on our project we will have some photos and whatnot on our website where you'll be able to see what these look like on the vehicle. We'll be mounting them up just to show you. Actually not only their aggressiveness, but they're also a very attractive wheel. So keep tabs on it, and like I said, you have 2 choices to go with on your upgrade on your D2. Maybe you want both. When you're ready to do so give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Two Nowadays you can find a good used and affordable Discovery Series II for $3,500 - 5K. Add another $3K - 5K and you can outfit your Discovery II for off-road in no time. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Two of our video how-to series, as he removes, replaces and installs the front (DA5645 ) and rear (DA5646 ) bumpers with new heavy-duty steel bumpers to give the vehicle front and rear clearance for off-road use. Doug will also address the installation of a winch, an essential accessory for off-road use, to the front bumper. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Two: Installing Front / Rear Heavy-Duty Steel Bumpers and Winch, Parts:# DA5645 and # DA5646Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. This is the next step when we're installing the steel bumpers. This is to give the vehicle a little more clearance in the front and the back for off-road use. You'll notice we have the steel bumper which all ready has the cutout for a winch if you plan on adding a winch to the vehicle. This is a DA5645. It's a relatively easy installation. Depending on your expertise in mechanical installations, you can do this job in 45 minutes to maybe 2 hours max, even with rusty nuts and bolts. It's a relatively easy installation. And I'm going to show you how to do it. All right, so our first step in removing this front bumper and the cover is going to be 6 phillips screws for this front panel and then two 10 millimeter nuts on the bottom. You have the same thing on the other side. We're going to get those out. And then we're going to show you there's 2 electrical connections if you have fog lights on your D2. You're going to need to disconnect the wiring on that and we'll show you that in a few minutes. And then there are 4 nuts inside. Once we're able to do that, we can drop this in place. Now you'll notice like in the case of Discoverys, there are 2 plastic tabs that drop into rubber grommets on the bottom. Don't worry, you're not losing any additional support because you still have the 2 side screws holding the side of the grill in place. Plus with the top 3 screws, this doesn't take any stress or force so to speak, so basically it can just sit there. It's not going to go anywhere. It's pinned in by the winch. It's still a good set up. So at this point now we're going to put in our trim panels underneath. Get our covers back on. Put our side lights in. We'll test our winch to make sure everything is up and working properly. We'll be ready to go. All right, so what we're going to see right now is we have the winch in place. We got the face plate on. Cable is pulled out. And with just a pin you can install the clip. Now basically as I said, you're going to have all different types of winches and whatnot, but the basic is going to be the same. Follow the direction. It's just a simple hook up to your positive and negative side of your battery. Some going to also include relay pack, they show you how to install that right on the positive side of the battery. And then once that's it, plug it in. You have your controls and you're set to use your winch. So, when you're ready to mount the winch up on your new steel bumpers just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the rear shocks on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322).
Hi I'm Gareth your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on a 2005 L322. It's in need of new rear shock absorbers. We're going to be installing these new Bilstein replacement shock absorbers here that we sell. The mount, the top mount, is held on by three studs and three nuts up underneath the carpet which will show you momentarily. The rear, sorry, the lower mount is bolted with a big long bolt through the lower control arm of the vehicle. So like I said a short while ago we're replacing the shock absorbers because the lower bushing in the shock absorber itself is blown out on this side. Literally totally, the rubber casing is separated from the steel sleeve. If you want to get the closer look you can see here how it's almost off of the bolt at this point here. So the first job is to pull out the load space area cover. Ss you can see I'm kneeling on the spare tire here. These shocks do look like they've been replaced once before. This car does have a few miles on it. The carpet has already been removed once. But if you can lift the carpet up without too much damage or take off a few of the brackets that would be a good start. The nuts that hold the top of the shock on are a 16 millimeter nut. They are pretty tight so do expect to have to work them a little bit with a breaker bar. I've loosened them off already and I'll be doing, working from both sides of the lower face and the top face in here but we just wanted to show you where the shock mount came through the floor of the car so you can access it easier. Of course the front, sorry, the rear seats the base has to be folded all the way forward to access. So I've set the car up. I've got a jack stand underneath the lower control supporting all the suspension and any, you know, the main suspension components so that will relieve the tension on the shock absorber. I'm going to do it from the inside first so it can move a little freely. I think because the shock absorber is so, the lower bushing is so blown out I'll be able to just pull it off and remove it. Okay so we have the vehicle supported at the lower control arm by the jack stand which relieves the tension on the shock absorber. We're going to undo this nut, I'm going to wire brush it and put some WD-40 on it so we can slacken it off and drive out the bolt that holds the shock absorber to the lower control arm. So I've removed the hardware from inside the vehicle, the three 16 millimeter nuts from the top mount of the billstein, well the old strut. We're going to be putting a new Bilstein strut in there, shock absorber I should say. Because the old bushing is so blown out this thing is just going to literally fall off, off of the lower mount, and I did. And I'm pulling it out gently now, not to hit anything. So this is the old strut. As you can see the bushings totally blown out of it. You can see the old steel shell of the old bushing. We're going to be replacing it as a whole new assembly. The next job for me is to remove the nut, pull the main bolt out that supports everything, install the new one and then remount it at the top. Here we have the bolt removed from the vehicle off the lower control arm. As you can see this is the bushing which is actually part of the shock absorber which totally blew out and as you can see it's all worn away. This is going to be removed and thrown away because it comes with the new shock absorber. This is the bolt that holds everything together. As you can see it's a little bit rusty. I'm actually going to clean it up on the wire wheel here that we're lucky enough to have. Clean up the threads. I'm gonna put some anti-seize compound on the bolt so we don't have to worry about it being serviceable in the future. Everything should come apart it needs to and I'm gonna start reinstalling the new shock absorber. So this is the new shock absorber as I explained before. I'm going to put it down into the suspension assembly first, slide it up into place, hold it on by the three nuts initially loosely, and then mount the lower bolt, and then re secure everything nice and tightly using a bit of anti-seize on the bottom bolt, just so like I say it can be quite easily serviced in the future and then tighten everything up accordingly. This is the awkward part. Okay so we've got the new shock absorber installed, top and bottom, the bolt all cleaned up. I don't know whether you can see it, but it's there, the new bolt, well, old bolt cleaned up, wire brushed, anti-seize the nut on this side right here at the back. As you can see it bit of anti-seize on there. I swung on it with a big breaker bar to make sure it's nice tight and secure. We've wrapped up this side pretty much. The other side exactly the same way. It could be a little work out for you. You might break a sweat from time to time. And after that I'm ready to put the wheels back on and make sure we road test the car, make sure we've got no knocks, rattles, bangs, squeaks. And we should all be good.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an Android device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the Android device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us online .
How-To Install the iLANDApp On Android Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more:checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so we're going to show you how to set up your new iLAND on an Android system. And essentially what will happen is when you get your Android tool, you're also going to get a set up sheet similar to this that's going to basically take you right through. This is an easy quick start guide. And what we'll start with is, you're going to turn your phone on. And we'll get on the screen. Now where you would go is you would go to your play store, your Google play store on your Android system. And then this will essentially put you there. It will have a search on top. And just put in iLAND diagnostics. And it will put you on this window. And we've all ready installed, but normally this would, this box on the left going to tell you install, hit that, let it do its thing. And then essentially you go back. And you will look for your icon right on your screen. So we'll hit that. We'll go back on that. And it's going to put you on the screen here. In fact let's back this up one. It's going to give you a screen that's going to essentially look like you're going to log in. But you haven't developed your registration yet. So down here, just below the log in box, you'll see sign up. We'll hit that. And then what it does now is put you on a screen. You're going to enter in your email address. This is the address that will be designated for this phone so once you enter it it becomes basically a permanent address. So we're going to do that. And we're going to go to the next screen. So you've entered your email address. The next screen you get is going to be verification. It's going to ask you to enter your received verification number which is right here. And we'll just punch that in. And then we're also going to set a password in here and it states 6 to 20 characters, doesn't say anything else about capitals or letters or numbers or whatnot. So just 6 to 20 characters will be enough for an adequate password. So now you've entered that. You're going to hit done. So the next screen now for the complete the info, this is a register this under your name, so your going to enter your first name, last name and zip code of where you live. So after entering your name and your zip code and you hit done, it's going to put you at one point it is going to tell you to pick a vehicle, but before it does, if there's any downloads, or upgrades available on this particular veh, on this particular set up, it will automatically set you up and sure enough, here we are, and we actually have a download available, so we're going to hit download. Let it do the upgrade and then we can get into picking our vehicles. Now, in case when you do finish your registration and whatnot, and there isn't a download or an upgrade available on that, at the time you'll get this window, it will just simply tell you sign up succeeded. And it will tell you to activate, welcome, to activate your dongle and you will have more functions. I'm going to hit that. Now it's going to ask for the serial number and the activation code which you will receive in the dongle box when you get your new iLAND. And this will come with your iLAND diagnostic tool. And there will be a product serial number, and then on this side the private / confidential which will be the verification number. You'll need to open up and underneath will be the verification number. And that's what this is asking for now. So we'll type in those 2 numbers. All right. So at this point now, you're going to get the screen that will ask you to choose your vehicle. Being that this unit is all ready set up for pro, it's all ready set up for all Land Rover vehicles, if you purchased your iLAND for a single vehicle. Of course now you choose your vehicle now, say either Range Rover, Discovery, whatever your vehicle is. Once you choose that it's locked in and you cannot change that. That remains constant on the vehicle. That's all you're going to have. So at this point now you've downloaded the app, you have the app, you have the vehicle choice, so now we're going back up to Bluetooth and link you up with the dongle. So when you get on your Bluetooth screen. First you're going to go to settings. You go to Bluetooth. You're going to look for available devices. You'll hit that and what it will do is a search. And then it will pop up the serial number on your dongle. And then at that point just tap that and it will pair it up. Now that we're paired, we have our app done, we can go back to our main screen. You see our iLAND and again I'm going to spell it out - it's i-l-a-n-d. There's no s in there. And go hit on the app. And basically we can now hook up to any vehicle. The first time you go into your vehicle, it's going to give you what they call workshop warnings. And these are basically just safety items that they want you to be aware off. And you'll hit accept. And then a warning using battery charger and whatnot. Just read through that. These are certain little guidelines. We'll hit accept. Please wait. And now everything is just going to load up. And there you are. Now it'll even show you if there is another version available, it will do automatic updates. So it's all ready loaded the newest updates so we can trash can the old one. We'll confirm. We'll take that out. So now we're on the latest and greatest. And you'll find that there will be updates as you use this constantly. They're always looking to improve the tool. So we'll hit confirm. And now it's going to set up the updates and get it all. Once the updates are loaded, you'll be able to get on the vehicle and be able to start your diagnostics. And that's basically all there is to it. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an iOS device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the iOS device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us online .
How-To Install the iLANDApp On iOS Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more: checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so let's begin. I'm going to show you how to load up your iLAND program onto your iphone or your ipad. You're going to go to app store. And when you go to app store, at the top when you search you're going to search for iLAND diagnostics. And that's i-l-a-n-d, no s. Once you get on iLAND diagnostics, you'll hit install and you're going to install the app on your phone. So, now you've downloaded your app, you'll find your icon on your main screen, on your home screen. So we'll hit that. So now we're going to go through registration process. Looks like a log in screen, but you'll see here in the lower left sign up. Hit that. And now you're going to feed the information. Of course it will say USA if you're in the United States. And then essentially what you're going to do at this point, you're going to enter your email address and then it's going to ask you to do it twice to confirm the correct email.All right, so we're essentially ready to do the next step will obviously the pairing. So we're going to pair up the phone now with the dongle so that once the two are connected, you'll have full use of your iLAND. So what essentially you're going to go to your Bluetooth settings. All right, go to settings, pull up Bluetooth, make sure Bluetooth is on. And then when you do a scan, the serial number for your unit is going to appear on your screen. Simply connect to it. Once you've done that, you're all set. So we'll get out of settings. We'll go back to our main screen. Let's hit iLAND. And now immediately all our vehicles come up. So if you're using an individual, you're just going to hit that, say you set yours up for a Range Rover, hit Range Rover and that's going to put you on the screen that's going to allow you to do all your diagnostics. And that we'll cover further in other vehicles. For now we want to show you how to do your initial set ups so you can get started using the iLAND. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install mud flaps on a Land Rover LR4 2011-2012. Using Mud Flaps Part # VPLAP0017G , you will find the addition of the rear mud flaps helpful in diminishing road spray and grime on the rear window. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us at http://www.roverparts.com
Part#: VPLAP0017G Installing Rear Mud Flaps On LR4Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about rear mud flaps for the LR4s. The reason being is we're hearing more and more from LR4 owners that without the mud flaps, and especially in the wintertime, you get a lot of road salt and debris and whatnot kicks up from under the vehicle and it coats the rear window to the point where even the rear wiper won't clean it completely off. So we found with the installation of rear mud flaps it seems to knock that down quite a bit. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install mud flaps. It's very easy. And by doing so you can reduce a lot of that build up on the back window. So now what we're going to do before we install the kit, just give you an idea of what you get when you order your rear flaps. And essentially you get pre molded, factory flaps. These are designed to meet the contours of the body of the vehicle. The hardware you need to install. And of course instructions which you're going to find the first thing is when you read the instructions is the only tool you need to replace these is a Phillips screw driver. This is going to be a very easy job. We have this up on the lift, but you can sort of do the same just by starting your vehicle, putting it up on access, your high mode, your off road more for your air suspension which will give you plenty clearance and you can get a screw driver in there to change these over. So let's begin. We'll show you how to get them in. All right, so, you have one screw here directly on the bottom. And one screw right there. We're going to just simply take those two off. And then we have to get up underneath. We're going to show you there is one area where one of those blue plastic, I guess you could call it a nut, is going to get popped in. And from that point then you can just attach your bracket. So let's get this apart. All right, so just to give you an idea of where we're working next, you have the back muffler right here. Behind that we have the heat shield. What we're going to do is show you then we're going to move the heat shield back a little bit, show you and basically expose this square opening right here, which is where we're going to pop that little blue nut in place. One thing so we'll mention. The two small brackets that come with this kit are actually labelled left and right. And it makes a difference on how they go on. And these essentially will end up being attached to where we just put that blue nut on the part of the frame behind the heat shield. So the next step is we're going to take another one of these blue nuts. Going to pop that on there. Grab a screw. And essentially attach this now to that area and that will put this blue nut on the center right here for this third hole. So it's a little bit of a tight fit but you're going to hold that bracket so that it runs up against the back side of this inner arch. You can just fit a screw driver in there and we're just going to run that screw in and lock it down. All right so this is what your bracket is going to look like installed. Now what I'll probably suggest is back that screw off about half a turn and just enough to make this loose. Because you may not be lined up exactly in the hole right here on the facing. So what we're going to do is essentially leave that a little bit loose so we can maneuver it and then we'll put the fender flap on and once that's on we can come back, lock that down and push the heat shield back in place. Okay, so, now we're just simply going to take our mud flap, set it up in place there. And you'll probably put the top screw in place first. What we're going to do is we're going to reuse the two screws that we took out initially and put them back in the same areas that they came from. One up top. And one down below. And we're going to leave them loose. So that we can line up that center screw. Those two are in. And now we go to our last but not least. If you're doing this with the tire on this one screw, you may want to grab a little stubby screw driver so you can get in here. And run that in. All right, so here's our mud flap installed. Like I said we're just reusing the top screw, bottom screw and then just the one add on bracket with the center screw. Easy install. And we'll just do the same to the other side. And really within a short period of time we have mud flaps. Which will actually as I said earlier, greatly reduce the amount of dirt build up on your back windows on your LR4. So, when youre ready to put back mud flaps on your LR4, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order them online. And if you like our videos, and you find them helpful, you can also go to our YouTube site and subscribe to that, and end up getting more helpful videos to help you maintain your Land Rover. So thanks we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Watch Doug present an overview of what is under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size L322, 2006 - 2009, with a 4.2 Supercharged engine. He'll also show you the locations of most of your fluid fill points and other items of interest. This is the same as the 4.4 naturally-aspirated engine. Doug shows you how to reposition the hood in the full upright position in order to gain better access to the systems under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us using our live chat.
Under Hood Tour Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationAlright, so what we have here is a 2006 Full Size Range Rover. The L322. This has got the 4.2 Supercharged engine. The locations of most of your fluids and your items of interest under the hood are going to be basically the same whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated. So essentially what we're going to do is start in the back passenger corner. You have the battery box. And you'll find the battery is tucked in there pretty good. And these are a good size battery. And we'll show you a little trick in a little while on how you can reposition the hood so you can have easier access to items in the back. Next is going to be your cool box. In here is going to be most of your major modules. Your PCM, transmission control module, transfer case module. And this actually has a cooling fan similar to what you have on your PC to keep your box down at a certain temperature. This is actually in a way climate controlled to keep the moisture level and condensation and all that down from inside the box. Then you have your coolant overflow reservoir with the bleeder cap. This is where you're going to watch your coolant levels. On the side, on this side where I am looking down there is actually a level stripe on the tank so that you can watch and maintain your coolant level. This is just a crossover tube for your air conditioning. This is your power steering fluid. And you essentially have the same thing. You have a level marker towards the front, but with a flashlight you can actually get a better idea. Always check this with a flashlight and check your level. And it also gives you a better idea on the condition of your fluid. Should the fluid turn a dark color, a dark black or whatever, this can be flushed and refreshed with fresh fluid. And you should do it. Just like any petroleum based fluid it should be done on a regular basis. Your washer fluid with the vent. Your air filter box. Your oil level dip stick. Now you'll notice an O ring on here. These systems have a negative pressure system inside the crank case to keep the crank case ventilated. So it's actually important on these O rings on both the filler cap and the dip stick stay maintained. This is your ABS control module, both the hydraulic and electronic. Your lines. You'll see these 2 large caps on both sides which are just simply covers on for the top of your air suspension struts. And then in the rear compartment is going to be your brake master cylinder, which also has a level marker on it. So these are all your points that you'll want to check on a regular basis. You always want to check your fluids so in case you pick up a leak or something you have an idea of what youre losing. Now, what we'll do is we'll show you how to access and remove this engine cover. You'll notice that the back quarter of it disappears underneath this panel, and so do the 2 rear screws that hold it down. This upper plenum, which is part of the heating system and also contains the pollen filter, which on another video we'll show you how to replace. You can remove this with just simply removing 2 bolts and this upper weather strip. And we're going to show you how. This simply pulls up and removes right off of a pinch well.Now we just bring this straight up. And you'll see this thin tab right here. I'll swing it out of the way so you get a better view of that. Just a slight tab with a hole in it. You're just going to swing that down. The hole lines up with this pin that's built into the hinge. And then just let it relax. Now the hood is almost in a full straight up vertical. Your cover and your plenum is out of the way. And this gives you very easy access to the top of the engine. So, that's basically our tour. We're going to show you in other videos how to change the different filters and other maintenance items on this. So, feel free to look through the other videos for any ideas or any information you need to work on your Full Size Range Rover.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the front and rear ride height sensors on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322). Applicable Part #s LR020627G (front right) / LR020626G (front left) / LR032106G (rear).
Hi I'm Gareth, tech support here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on an L322. It's actually a 2005 model. We're going to be replacing rear and front height sensors. The reason we're replacing the high sensors on this vehicle is that we were getting corrupt data from the height sensors through to the ride height control module and the car wasn't making any height adjustments. These, it's not uncommon to not have fault codes for this issue as data does get through but it has difficulty adjusting. A lot of the time it's due to the old sensor. This is a front, this is an original one. The the actual pivot point gets seized and tight. I can barely move this one so it won't flex with the sensor and ends up giving wrong information to the right height control module. This is the new replacement here as you can see, totally updated with a rubber bushing. You can see how easy that moves. It comes in a kit form with new retaining screws and a new replacement bracket. This is a 2005 model like I said with the BMW engine in it, which was built between 03 and 05. Part number for this particular model without active headlights is LR020627 for a front, and LR020626 I believe for the left front. The rears that we're going to replace first, this one I don't know if you can see clearly enough, but it's split here. There's a small crack in the body which allows water to ingress into the sensor and give corrupt data back to the ride height control module. And as you can see when I removed it from the other side it just tore apart unfortunately, so yeah definitely time to replace. This side was also starting to crack even though the screw came out. The new one for the left and right rear uses the same part number LR032106 genuine part that we sell. And this is the sensor itself. Again all rubber bushed, nicely. A little bit more updated. Not as big as cumbersome. And this also comes with a little tiny repair kit of new retaining screws. So we're gonna start here on the right rear of the vehicle for replacement to the rear sensor. It's a little bit of a tighter fit.It's located all the way back here against the rear subframe. It bolts the lower arm down on the lower control arm. There's a 13 mil headed bolt and nut that hold it in place here. There is one electrical connector right here there has to be cleaned. I generally spray with a bit of WD-40 or PB Blaster just to sort of loosen any dirt up or anything and I normally blow it with compressed air to loosen up any dirt that might have been caught in there. And then once the connectors off, we undo the two retaining screws, one here and one down at the back underneath, in the corner here. However I don't hold out much for the screws coming out that easily because they've been in there a long time and it's all heavily corroded. So I'll start on the nut here and bolt, then the electrical connector and then I'll work from underneath the vehicle and remove the two screws. Okay so here is the right rear height sensor removed. Lucky this time it came apart quite easily. Some, a lot of the time the hardware, these two screws that hold the sensor to the bracket rot out and you end up having to get vice grips out and start moving it bit by bit. But this one came out quite easily. This one is split down the side of the bracket and on this side you can see the split here, which was allowing water to get into the sensor and give corrupt information to the right height control module. So we're going to be putting the new, new one on momentarily and mounting it like so into the vehicle. 2 new screws, connector, with a dielectric grease in the connector to help waterproof it, stop any corrosion, and then we're going to move on to the front sensor. So the sensor is installed. Just a quick check to make sure that the arm moves nice and freely and doesn't obstruct the screws that we put in to hold it in place. And that's good. The arm goes back through the bracket hole somewhere here. There we'll put the original nut back on. There's nothing wrong with it. We'll hold it with a small 10 millimeter wrench down at the bottom. We'll zip it up make it nice and tight. We'll put the electrical connector back on with a little dab of dielectric grease and we're all set to move on to the front. So the new sensors all installed. It's solidly mounted to the lower control arm here. It's free and clear of the containing screws. The clips back on, dielectric grease on the inside of it. It's clipped on in place. That's all done we're gonna move on to the front section okay so here we are at the right front. This is the height sensor we're going to be replacing. I can already see at the top of the sensor it's split open. Plus I totally suspect this heim joint to be seized. I can't even wiggle it sideways, so I'm already assuming that it's bad and seized up. Gonna start off removing the electrical connector here. We squeeze the sides, the tabs, push it down, remove the connector. I'm going to disconnect the lower heim joint here at the lower control arm, and then we're gonna actually remove the whole bracket with the sensor from here and here. Obviously going to have to cut the cable tie that holds the wiring on for it right there and then we're gonna put a new bracket on. It'll go mount exactly the same place as the old one was but the new one has the plastic arms with the rubber bushings so they don't corrode and seize up. So this right front sensor, as I suspected with the left front, is seized solid. The arm moves at the sensor but won't pivot here at the arm and I'm pushing, there, I mean I'm forcing that quite badly and that would not it would, would not give good correct information to the right height control module. It would be corrupted. It's just totally rotted out, seized and needs replacing. Okay so the height sensor is off the car and I'm forcing it to move obviously, that would not work properly on the car. I mean it's freeing up now because I've moved it a couple of times but it's still way too tight for good correct data input to the right height control module. So with this we're going to be replacing, with the sensor, which comes with the new plastic arm with the rubber bushings, it's gonna get a new bracket, new screws and hardware that hold it all together and it has definitely been getting water in it off of the crack that is right at the top there where the hardware goes through. So the nice thing about the new sensors they come with the new bracket. We get to install the bracket first to the height sensor before we install it onto the car. So what I'm going to do is orient this in the right direction and of course we have the old one here to make sure I get it right. And we can screw it on using the two new screws. Screw the bracket on and then just use the old screws that hold the bracket to the subframe of the vehicle. Goes that way, like that. And for any beginners out there who want to try this it's always a good idea to take a photograph of it with your digital phone, cellular phone. Just pinched up a little bit. Don't have to go swinging on them they're small screws that's going into a small plastic housing. You don't want to strip the plastic housing out. You'll feel it bottomed out when it's tight. Check the other side. And there we go. Same as the old one. There, there, ready to install. I'm gonna get a cable tie for this so we can hold it on there nice and firmly. It's not flailing around. I'll go grab one. Okay so now we have the new right front high sensor installed. The clip, the wiring harness clip for the height sensor is on nice and firmly. The link rod is attached securely, as is the new bracket. I just zip-tied the wiring harness on nice and firmly just to stop it from blowing around and any possible catching of anything. We can put the wheel back on and we could lower the vehicle. We'll probably do a test first to see if we need to calibrate the suspension. You don't always have to calibrate the suspension, it depends on if there are any faults arise due to height sensor replacement. A lot of the time, or, most of the time all the height information is stored in the ride height control module. The sensor just tells the height control module what it's seeing. So not always calibration is needed but we won't see, know until we actually test the system. If we do then yeah we'll do a calibration procedure. If not luckily, hopefully, we have just replaced the sensors and the system will come back online and work properly. Okay so here we have the car off the left now, wheels back on. I've actually tested the vehicle a couple of times since we had the car on the ground. The air suspension is working back in operation normally now. There is no need to recalibrate every time you replace height sensors. The information is always stored in the right height control module on most of the Land Rover models. We did do all 4 sensors on this vehicle. I observed it with the diagnostic tool we had. The readings were with, well within parameters of one another. I did not calibrate it. I've tested the system in access mode normal ride height and in extended height mode and it is working perfectly fine. The vehicle drives excellent. I've no concerns over having any issues over to wanting to recalibrate. I've left it well alone. It doesn't need it. I'd be happy if this car came back to me from any repair facility in this condition.
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