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Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Tech, remove and replace the engine in our 2000 Discovery Series II with one of our exclusive remanufactured engines. Doug goes in-depth in this engine installation, which in real-time should clock in as a 10 hour service. We recorded the process starting in January 2017 and finishing in November 2017, working on it when time allowed. It actually sat for months, as we had other things on our schedule to work on.
Engine Item # 9257DRK / 9257BRK Replace &Install Short Block Engine Demonstrated on 2000 Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on what unfortunately becomes a pretty common item. As these Discovery's are getting older what's happening is we're running into head gaskets, slip sleeves, damaged cylinders due to burning coolant, a number of different things where you would end up requiring to replace the block before you;d be able to do a proper rebuild. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to remove the engine out of a Discovery. This is a 2000. Essentially 1999 to 2004 are all going to be pretty much the same other than the 2003 and 2004 some have the secondary air that's just a little bit more involved there. But what we have here is a 2000 Discovery. The heads are already off the engine. We made a determination we have a bad cylinder sleeve. And we're going to have to rebuild and replace the block. So, we're going to show you basically what you're going to need if you want to change the engine over on your Discovery. So essentially we're going to start from underneath the vehicle. And there's a lot to unbolt when you get underneath. Main thing is going to be you have 4 bolts that attach the transmission torque converter to the flex plate. We're going to access those from an opening that's just above the starter. We're also going to be taking this little bottom plate off so we have access so we can move the torque converter. This bottom panel that sits underneath the front pulley of the engine, we'll take this out so we can put a ratchet and a socket on the lower crack pulley so we can turn the crank. That makes that easier. Starter wiring. Knock sensor wiring. We've already removed the heads off this engine so we already disconnected at the exhaust so the exhaust is floating free. You've got your 2 cooling lines that run from the transmission up front to the transmission cooler. We're going to unbolt some of that. There are some brackets on that that attach it to the engine. And the of course the bottom bolts for the back of the oil pan. And the 2 on each side above where the transmission bolts to the block. And then the other 2 we'll get to from up top. We're also going to unbolt the, probably unbolt the mounts. You've got 2 nuts on the bottom here. Some of this like the mount bolts you'll want to pre-soaking in penetrating oil before you get into to the rest. Give that a chance to work it's way in. So there's a bit to do. But it's all got to get done. It's not all that bad. It's just a little time consuming but it's nothing but nuts and bolts. All right, so, first things first. We'll start with the heat shield that surrounds the starter. And that will give us access to the 2 wires that attach to the front of the starter. The S wire and the battery cable. And what holds that on, the back of it is a snap clip, but in the front there's a little hidden bolt right up on the engine mount. Just over that plate on the inside. You're going to have to do it by feel. A 10 millimeter head bolt. And that's what attaches to the front of the heat shield to the motor mount. You need to remove that to get the heat shield out of there. So we're going to sneak up in there with a ratchet and short extension, a 10 millimeter socket, take that bolt out. so we've taken the bolt out of that shield on the round the starter as they said there's just a snap clip on there so we push outward and then come back a little bit now like I said earlier you have the battery disconnected so you don't have to worry about shorting out or touching that wire and this is gonna just sneak right out the front steering that comes right out there's the snap clip I'm talking about so you can see this just basically grabs right around the starter solenoid take that out alright so our next step is going to be to disconnect the cables off of the starter and you have o
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he gives you tips and pointers on diagnosing a bad spark plug or ignition coil. This tech tip is demonstrated on an LR3 V8 4.4L. Also Applies to: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2010-2013; Range Rover Sport 2010-2013; Range Rover Full Size 4.4 Jag Engine 2006-2009; Range Rover Full Size 4.2 Supercharged Jag Engine 2006-2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part # LR005253 Spark Plug // Part # 4744015 Ignition Coil Diagnosing Bad Spark Plugs & Coils Demonstrated on: LR3 / Discovery 3 V8 Engine Only 2005 - 2008. Also applies to: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2010-2013; Range Rover Sport 2010-2013; Range Rover Full Size 4.4 Jag Engine 2006-2009; Range Rover Full Size 4.2 Supercharged Jag Engine 2006-2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on how to essentially diagnose whether you have a bad coil or a bad spark plug. And this will be demonstrated on a 4.4 LR3. This will be 2005 to 2009. The same application basically is going to be the same for the Sport, the Supercharged Sport. And the basis of this will also apply to the Full Size Range Rover. Any of the 2006 to 2009, with the 4.2 or the 4.4. Now essentially what happens is the check engine light comes on. You get in. You check the codes. You're getting misfire codes. There are a number of reasons why you can have a misfire code. We're not going to touch on all of that right now, but what we are going to concentrate on, the most common factors usually either a bad coil or a spark plug has failed. And essentially what you're going to need to check it out because we want to keep this as little complicated as possible is one, obviously you're going to need a ratchet, quarter drive with a 16 millimeter socket, that's going to take the top engine cover off. A low voltage test light. This unit is used to not only check for power and grounds at the 12 volt level, but also at the 5 volt level. So that will be versatile. We're going to need that. A pair of pliers. This style I seem to favor for pulling the 2 relays out of the relay box and we'll show you why we're going to do that. And then I like to keep a long straight blade screw driver if I have a problem getting the connector off the coil. You can use this to lift the tab up a bit, and just enough to coil off. And then we have an old school momentary switch which we're going to use to jump the starter relay, crank the engine over. This is if you're working alone and you don't have a helper to be able to turn the key for you. So essential where we're going to start is we've taken the engine cover off. I've removed, popped off the plastic cover that covers the coils and the spark plugs. This is a 2006 LR3 with a 4.4.I would replace that plug. Now here's a good running plug. We have a light tan tint to the porcelain on the bottom. If you see more of an orange tint or possibly green if you're using the green coolant, which shouldn't be in this vehicle. But if you see more orange to it there's a possibility you're getting coolant in there. You can use the spark plug to start of read the situation that's developing in there and why you would have a misfire in that cylinder. So at this point, if you've also pulled the spark plug and you've checked spark, then this is not the cause of your misfire, you need to be looking at either fuel injection or possible compression test, see if you have low compression and there's other things that can be involved with that. But, for testing the coil and the ignition, this would apply to LR3, LR4, Full Size Sport, basically any of these 2006 to 2009 Full Size LR3 and Sport that has the 4.4 and the 4.2 engine. So if you should come across where you find you need an ignition coil or a set of plugs for your vehicle just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
A brief overview of the Air-to-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits available for many Range Rover models. If this is something you have been thinking of installing on your Rover, watch this video to learn how to get started. Includes information on part
9520LBHDWB. Air-To-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits For Range Rover VehiclesHi. I'm Chip French. I'm a salesman here at Atlantic British. And if you own a Range Rover you know the expense of maintaining your air suspension system. We've come up with a couple different coil spring conversions for all Range Rovers from 1993 up to the 2006 model. This one here is for the P38, for the vehicle that was built from 1995 to 2002. We use custom made springs, where other companies may use a spring from a different vehicle to fit the Rover, ours are custom bent. We also have machined perches where the springs go on, where other companies use a stamp steel product. We add new bump stops and also the override harness, which will bypass the error messages on your computer. It is very simple to plug in, instead of having to rewire the ECM, which could be expensive if not done correctly. We also have these available in a heavy duty set-up for some vehicles. Check us out on the website or just give us a call.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, change the pollen / cabin filter on a Range Rover Sport 2014. Using our
Pollen / Cabin Filter Part # LR036369, it is recommended that these filters be replaced at least one a year. Part #: LR036369 Pollen/Cabin Filter Service On 2014 Range Rover Sport, 5.0L, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specification. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about cabin filters. Specifically now we have the cabin filter for the new L494 Range Rover Sports. This is the new body that started in 2014. And the installation is similar to the earlier Sports but there are some differences you need to know before you put one in. And you should change these on a pretty regular basis. At least once a year. Just because of the debris and whatnot that they keep from getting into the climate control. It keeps the air fresher. It gets rid of that moldy smell. There's a lot of reasons why you should replace this on a regular basis. So we're going to show you how. Alright. Before we begin and actually if you look in the factory manual it does tell you that before you can replace the pollen filter on this you need to have the ignition on. Now the vehicle not running, but just the ignition on and the air conditioning climate control on AC manual and recirculated. So before we even start we're just going to key, make sure all the lights are on on the dash. That's going to indicate that your key is on. Ac control being right here. We want to make sure we have AC on. We're going to turn off max AC. And turn the fan off. OK. Key on. Fan off. Now the next step is, and if you look right here, you have an arm that runs up. This has a tab on the end of it that is what locks the glove box door in place. We're going to push down on there and then on its equivalent on the other end. And we have to push down. Now this one is on the inside. It's a little tight space so you really need to get your finger in there, push hard to get these to release. So just come up just a little bit. Push down. And then that lowers the glove box. Obviously take everything out of the glove box before you do that. And so what that's going to do is open up that area so that we can change the filter. Alright so by following the instructions what that does is it lowers this chamber down and there is access to your filter. So we're going to pull that up and right out. Now you'll notice on the one we pulled out of there where the air flow direction is. Because on the earlier Sports it was from the top down. On this particular design it is from the bottom up. So we want to make sure arrow pointing up. So we'll take the dirty filter out. There's our nice new filter. We're going to check our air flow. This shows down. We want to make sure it's up. And then slide that back into the chamber we just took the other one out of. Now we have these little retainer tabs right here in the middle so we have to push down. We want to get underneath that because that holds that filter in place. And that's essentially it. So what we're going to do at this point now, all you need to do for the glove box is to flip it up, those tabs will lock back into place. Put all your gear back in the glove box. And turn your ignition key off. But that's pretty much it. A very simple replacement. Only takes a few minutes. And it's really good maintenance to change on a regular basis. Alright, so when you're ready to change over the pollen filter on your new Range Rover Sport, you can just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can click on this link and order online. And if you like our how-to videos and would like to know moreabout them, or be able to view them, you can actually subscribe to our YouTube channel and view all our different videos that we've done for any of the Land Rover vehicles. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
How to remove an old tailgate strut and install a new one on a Range Rover P38 (1995-2002). Watch Jim as he explains the steps needed to do in order to change out your tailgate struts on a Range Rover.
Installation Instructions Tailgate Struts On Range Rover P38Hi. This is Jim. I do the technical support here at Atlantic British. This morning Nancy came in with her Range Rover and said last night when it got real cold, her rear hatch kind of fell down and hit her. I said it's probably time for new struts. They're kind of temperature related. The colder it gets, the weaker they get. So I'm going to show you how to do it. It's a fairly easy job. First you open up the rear hatch. This car you're going to have to lower the tailgate. You're also going to need to prop up the hatch. Then there are clips on the strut that you just easily pop off. Pop the strut off there. And there's another one down in here that you lift off. And then you can take the strut out of the car. And take your new struts which you can buy here at Atlantic British, either order them online at RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210, and order your new struts. You may have to lift the little clips up to get these started. Pop it in place there. And then you may have to lift the rear hatch and snap that in place. Remove your hood prop. Close the tailgate, and you're done with that side. It's always best to replace these in pairs. The other side is exactly like the first side.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will go over the installation of the re-flash module to remove dashboard codes after installation of our
coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This same install process also applies to the Land Rover LR3. Part #:7980 EAS Reflash Module Installation Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works On LR3) So when you're done converting your Sport or LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you're going to need to do what's referred to as a reflash, or inline filter. Basically to fool the system so that it will turn off all the warning lights, and the bells and whistles and everything. And everything else will operate. What it also does is it also maintains Terrain Response so you don't lose that. Which is nice. The only thing you do lose is the ability to raise and lower the vehicle at will. So, essentially what you'll be receiving is an EAS reflash unit. Refer to this. it's the 7980. It comes with the box. You'll also have a plug in pigtail. It's got 6 wires off of it that will need to be wired in. We're going to show you how to do that in a few minutes. And that's essentially it. And then through a small process you'll be able to reflash this unit so that you'll be able to drive away without having all the warning lights on. So we're going to start off with showing you how to access and where the location of the right lower control module is because the wiring going into that module is where we're going to be cutting into, and splicing into to make this work. All right, so we have the vehicle started. And you can see the warning lights you have on. Red brake light. The ABS light. The steering angle sensor. The suspension light. And all those are related, especially on these newer vehicles with these networks. They all talk to each other. So, now you've seen the lights. Now we're going to show you the Terrain Response, which the lights are out because it also sees a fault there. All right, so, here's your Terrain Response selector on the center console. And you'll see I'm going to move this bright light away just for a second, and you can see there are no indicator lights on that. So you've essentially lost Terrain Response. And we're going to go through the reflash and get that back. So to get started we're going to need a few basic tools. A straight blade screw driver. Phillips screw driver. I would prefer you use a nylon trim tool as opposed to metal. And then a quarter inch drive ratchet extension. This is a 10 millimeter deep swivel head. You can go with a regular deep with a shorter extension. This is just the set up I like to use. And an 8 millimeter deep quarter inch drive socket. So you start off with taking a straight blade and we're just going to stick that underneath that. This is your foot rest. This pops right off. Now, what that does is that exposes to 10 millimeter nuts that are going to hold this foot pad in place. So we grab our quarter ratchet. And the reason I go with the deep is because you've got probably about 3/4 of an inch of stud past the nut, so a regular socket will be a little to shallow to get all the way on the nut to get it off. So we've got one. Also, 1 more tool you're going to need is going to be a T25 torx driver. There's a torx head bolt that holds the hood release level on.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Watch Jim in this video as he gives a brief discussion of the location of the track rod and drag link for a Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004. It is the same for the Range Rover P38, 1995 - 2002.
Location and Discussion Track Rod / Drag Link for Discovery II, 1999 - 2004 or Range Rover P38, 1995 - 2002Hi it's Jim. I take care of the technical support here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to have a little discussion on the front end geometry of Range Rovers and the Discovery II. We have the Discovery II on the lift. I overhear our sales people all the time, people call in and they want a tie rod end or something. Land Rover calls tie rod ends 'ball joints'. I don't know why. And then they ask where they want it for, and the 2 words track rod and drag link come up. What I'm going to show you on the Disco II is where they are. We'll just move over here. The drag link on the Disco II and the Range Rover (that's P38 1995 - 2002) is in front of the axle. It also has this steering damper attached to it. The track rod is actually behind the axle. Doesn't have anything attached to it on this particular car. If you had an older Discovery I, the steering stabilizer is attached to that one. So what the usual problem is with these is either the tie rod end ball joint gets warn out and lose, the boots get torn up, and you want to replace it. You have to tell them if you are doing the track rod or the drag link. The next problem is that these cars are getting old. Your labor to get this out because it is rusted in tight, sometimes it is just a smarter deal to buy the whole unit. Especially if the one on the other end goes bad, it's part of this whole rod, so you would have to buy it any way. It is not that much more money to get the adjuster, the clamps and the other tie rod ball joint here. And then it makes doing the alignment the alignment 100% easier. This you can see is the drag link because that is where the steering stabilizer would go. This is the track rod for the Range Rover. It is bigger than the Disco II, you can see it is the same deal on this end the tie rod end or ball joint is part of this whole rod. And then you have your adjusters and stuff here. Again, if it is old, unless you live in the middle of the desert, not the northeast like we are here, it's going to be rusty, cruddy and hard to manage. It's good money just to put the whole piece on it. While we are up here, the steering stabilizer for Disco II you can have a choice of the OEM one. You can get a Bilstein gas German one, which is nice. My personal favorite is the Old Man Emu here. This is a pretty solid unit. It will get rid of any shakes in the front. For the Range Rover you can only buy the original equipment one. So if you need ball joints, tie rod ends or the whole track rod, check us out at RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Talk to the sales department, they'll know exactly what you need. And you can surprise them this time because you know where the track rod is and where the drag link is.
How to remove the side mirror on your Discovery II. Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to remove the side mirror on a Discovery Series II vehicle. Jim also provides some tips on how to best replace the glass mirror.
Outside Rearview Mirror Replacement For Discovery Series IIGood morning it's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support, sometimes humor around here. This morning we're going to take the left front mirror of this Discovery 2. It's fairly simple. The first tool you need is like an interior panel removal. You can actually buy them though us. Carefully remove - they call this a cheater place - with your panel tool. Comes right off. It's held by 1 pin. 2 little notches on the bottom. You find some insulation. Then you want to release this electrical connector. You'll see there's a pin back here. You would push it back with a small screw driver. And unplug it. And take another socket - I believe this one is 7 millimeters. Loosen up the 3 screws. When you get to the 3rd one, it's a good idea probably to grab that mirror on the outside, because we all know what's going to happen. And just pull it off. The reason you're probably taking this off is either you clipped it off on your garage door or the glass has gotten clipped or broken. We sell replacement glass here. My recommendation is take the mirror off. Take the new glass and the mirror to a glass shop and let them do the installation because it gets a little tricky. I have a tough time with it, I'll admit it. Once you get your new mirror or your new glass in there. Just get your bracket in hand. Push the electrical piece through. They'll be some fumbling involved here. Just get that started with your fingers. Get your couple threads so you can let go of it and line it up. Get the other bolts. And you'll snap this together. Slide it back down on the little lock. Put your insulation piece back in there. This is important because if it is not there you're going to get a wind noise. And this just kind of snaps back into place. Just like that. This basically is how most Land Rovers are. Some of the later models you do have to pull the doors panel off. Gets a little more involved. You can get your replacement mirror or replacement glass here at Atlantic British either by going on the website at RoverParts.com or give us a call 1-800-533-2210. Get a hold of our sales staff. They'll get the correct mirror for your car or the replacement glass. Another thing on the replacement glass. There is a little clip mechanism behind there. I would get that also. And don't forget to follow us on YouTube.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the
alternator for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009. This replacement is also similar on the LR3 V8 4.4L and the Range Rover Full Size with the Jag engine. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #: YLE500390 Replace / Install Alternator Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport SuperchargedHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about alternators. Now something that I've seen come up on a pretty regular basis lately on some of the Sports and the LR3s is a failure of the alternator. Actually a failure of the diode in the alternator. And some of the most common systems of what I'm getting on the phone calls is an intermittent lighting of the battery warning light on the dashboard, and a sudden increase in the noise from the cooling fan. And essentially what happens is when the diode goes it induces an AC current into the system that the body control module basically interprets as energize the front fan. And so it will sound louder than you will normally hear it. So those are 2 of the symptoms that are starting to show up on a pretty regular basis. A lot of these vehicles are getting older. They're hitting the high miles. These alternators have seen 130 150 some of them 190,000 miles and it's starting to affect them. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install an alternator on this from underneath. I know in the service manual the installation is a little more involved. We have some tricks to show you that will help you speed that up. And there's something else to look for while you're working in that general area. So let's get started. All right, so, right off the bat the first thing we want to do is disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Before I do that, and before you even get started, I did want to show you a tool that you're going to need to be able to release the belt tension you got to take off in order to be able to access to alternator. And this is similar, there are other models out there, but it's similar design, basically just a long thin bar with a 12 point cut out on the end of it. They'll come with different sockets for the sizes. You'll need a 15 mm on this. This particular application is going to basically apply to both the Sport and the LR3. Same design as the 4.4 engine. And then on some vehicles, and we may find we need to do it on this, there's essentially a plate that adapts to different angles on this and then is held in place by a bolt. That will give you an access angle that will get up to the tensioner to slip the belt off. We're not going to take the belt off completely. All we need to do is get it off the alternator. All right, we're going to start with disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. You have 2 tabs in the front that hold this cover down. Pop that out of the way. Simply pull that out. Negative lead is going to be the one closest to the back of the vehicle. It's a 13 mm. You can do it with a pair of pliers if you want. You just need to loosen that a turn or 2.As you can see you have 1 up there. You have the idler in the back. And on the power steering pump. And on the AC compressor. That all looks really good. So, we release the tension. Pop all this out. Make sure you get your tool out of that tensioner. Most times as I say I pop it out and sure enough it leaves that little extension in there. Always check that. Make sure you don't leave any under the hood. So essentially at this point your alternator is in. And all we're going to do now is put back the side cover that has the 4 plastic rivets, the front panel here. And the splash pan. And what I probably suggest you do at this point before you go putting all that back on, drop it down and start it up and make sure everything is working right and also make sure, put a volt meter across the battery. Make sure that unit is charging. But you should be good at this point. And this should take care of both that intermittent battery light and that noisy front fan. So when you're ready to install the alternator on your Sport or LR3, and I will say that the LR3 and Sport without the Supercharger is a little bit easier because there isn't so much plumbing in the way, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service using our
Kit # TRANSM600SKB on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38, with 4-speed ZF transmission; and should be performed every 30,000 miles. Kit#:TRANSM600SKB Installing Transmission Filter and Service Kit On Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004, 8 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance that a lot of people neglect on their vehicles, and that's automatic transmission service. On the Land Rover Discovery's, especially Discovery 2, your Range Rover P38, basically any vehicle across the board, over a period of time the fluid breaks down, the filter becomes restricted, and you end up losing not only shift performance, it can affect your fuel economy and it basically affects the overall drivability of the vehicle. So what we've done is put a kit together. And this is for the 4 speed ZF that was used in the Discovery 2s and the P38s. This will give you enough fluid, a new gasket, a filter, new O rings and the retainer collars for the pan and a drain plug with a new seal. And this is something you actually could do in your driveway. It's actually a relatively easy pan to drop. There's only 6 bolts. There's a drain plug. And just doing the service could do a world of good on your vehicle. So what we're going to do is show you how to install this. And basically show you how relatively easy it is to do a transmission service on this particular vehicle. We're going to do this on a 1999 Discovery 2. This will be very similar to any of the other vehicles, so follow along, I'll show you how to do it. So before we get started what I'm going to do is give you a basic layout of what you'll be getting into. We have a drain plug on the bottom. We're going to take that out first, let the system drain out. And then the only thing you have holding the pan in are 6 small bolts. You have 1 in each corner and then on each side there's 1 in the middle. Now the way they have this configured, they have a lip on the pan that goes all the way around. And on that lip is held in place by these little, I guess you could call them a block or a spacer or whatever you want to call it. But the bolt runs through it. As you can see there. Now when they've been up in place for about 17 years as in this case, they have a tendency to lock themselves in. So I would suggest is if you're a do it yourselfer, and you plan on doing this, you may want to start a week ahead of time and just shoot those bolts down about every other day with penetrating oil let the stuff work its way in. If you're a shop, definitely you still want to get in there and give them a little shock treatment, shoot them up with penetrating oil. You can take a straight punch with a small hammer and just give a wrap. Or if you have access to compressed air, with an air hammer just a quick shot right at the end of each bolt. Hopefully to break the corrosion loose. So that's essentially what you got. Be very careful, these bolts are very susceptible to breaking. It's a very small bolt that run into an aluminum housing. And when they are there for a while they will lock themselves in place. And you won't even know it. You'll spin it out and feel like the bolts turning. It just snaps right off. So if that's the case then you are going to be getting into a repair. So be very careful taking them off. Anyway, so, let's get started. We're going to take this apart. Drop this pan. And get into the filter change. So, we're at the point now, we've run it through the gears. We let our drip down to the pint where we knew we had a good level. Install the new plug. And at this point we're essentially done. We've done a transmission service. So with that new filter in place, like I said, it helps with fuel economy. It definitely adds to the life of the transmission. The fluid does break down after a while. And overall it's just going to let this transmission last a lot longer and perform better. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your D2 or your P38 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch how to install a trailer wiring kit on a Range Rover Sport. This exclusive trailer wiring kit contains all the wiring and connectors needed for the install, including an OE-spec harness, interchangeable Flat-4 and 7-way connector ends and easy-to-follow instructions.
Okay, today we're doing an install of the trailer wiring harness Atlantic British part number YWJ500170ABP to the rear of this 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. To start off with we're gonna have to remove the rear lamp assembly, the interior panel and probably flip down the front, there ,sorry the left rear quarter seat of the back panel of the seat so we can gain access. Once we're removed we're gonna get access to all the right connectors on the inside of the panel. I'm gonna run the harness through behind the bumper, up behind the tail lamp assembly and then into the vehicle and connect up where necessary. Remove the rear lamp - two phillips screws on the inside where the tailgate seal is, top of bottom. This ones easy and loose. Normally they're a bit of a tight fit on the receivers. Sometimes you have to get a plastic trim tool behind the panel here and give it a slight bit of leverage. I'm gonna disconnect that from the main harness. If I can find out where the clip is. Right there. We see the harness coming up here from the back of the vehicle. This is the old harness. We're going to be installing a new updated harness and connector for the rear tail lights and the trailer mount. And it will be installed the opposite way around to the old style. The old-style connector - very similar in design, however the new style that we carry means that we actually have to rotate the connector assembly 180 degrees. So in this kit the connector actually still includes the four pin connector, the standardized one, and the 7-way, which also includes the trailer braking connectors, pins I should say. So now we have the lamp out the next step is to remove the rear, left rear quarter panel, interior panel, but to do that I want to ensure I remove the bottom panel here because as you can see I already started a little bit but it's fouling on the bottom panel and to avoid damage to any of the panel's I like to remove any necessary fixings first. Now I have the two luggage clips removed. A little bit of a tug on the back edge of this panel will remove it from the vehicle. These are a couple of locating dowels, looks like one of the clips has been damaged in the past.We'll be replacing that. One real, one left on it. So I'll move that to one side and that gives us access to removing the rear quarter panel. I already started to loosen it off before and it looks like we can gain enough access into the back to do the work we need to do. So here we have the new unit semi installed. The orientation for the connector, the trailer socket, is like so when it's inside. It can get a bit fiddly trying to install it through the small area you have but it will go. It just takes a little time of up and down, up and down, and working into the back of the vehicle. Once it's in you can screw it in securely. Okay here we have the new 7-way trailer wiring connector installed. Screwed in tight. There's the four pin.There's the 7 pin. As you can see all the four screws are in. The silver stuff on the, around the screws, is anti-seize compound because these do have a bit of a tendency to get tight and corrode especially being out to the elements. All the water and everything flying around. Definitely advise putting anti-seize compound on it. But it's in as you can see. Properly installed into the back of the bumper. The next process is we're gonna route the pigtail harness from the connector, up behind the bumper, up to where the rear tail lamp assembly is. This as you can see hit the pigtail harness is out of the back, of the rear bumper, reinforcement. The harness is sort of located through the top of the bumper area. I can feel it's. Just gone lose there. Ignored the red cable. This is an aftermarket cable put in by the owner of the vehicle. It does go into the car follow the same route as the trailer harness but it's not part of the trailer harness. So it goes over the weights for harmonic noise, over the other side and as you can see up underneath the tailpipe here this is where it came out. And we're gonna route it right up, pretty much following where the headlights, the rear tail light comes out and mounted to behind the vehicle. So as you can see here's the pigtail harness come through behind the bumper, right beneath the lamp assembly. There's another section of wiring that attaches to it, here, by these two connectors. And this is all then routed through this hole into the back of the vehicle. So I've connected the two connectors, the, sorry, the rectangular one and the square one. The two pieces of foam tape that come in the kit actually wrap around there to stop it from rattling against the body of the vehicle, causing any annoyance of noise inside. So now I'm going to route the rest of the cable in through the back of the car, put the grommet in its place in the hole, and then start connecting the three connectors and the ground wire. Here on the outside of the vehicle still, we have the harness that I'm going to connect up, we have the park distance control, we have the three connectors that go in through the hole and the grommet that, go, plugs the hole r right here at the back of the vehicle. Everything's pretty much color coded or size coordinated for the interior. Okay so I've installed the grommet into the rear of the vehicle. As you can see nice and uniformly there. This is the wiring for the park distance control on the back of the vehicle. This is the connector to it from the new harness. Now the new connector for the park distance will come with a blanking plug in the end of it. You can see the little red rubber grommets inside there that blank off any water getting in. This does have to be removed from the harness that you'll be receiving. You slide the little slide, a little bit stiff, slide the slide back you can press on the little latch there and pull and it will come right off at the main connector. Then the connector goes back in to the main harness there. Clicks into place. You may have a little bit of residual extra harness. It will soon, it will wrap up and form nicely in the back behind the lamp unit that we're going to install.So here's the harness from the back of the vehicle. The exterior of the vehicle, routed through into the back left corner. As you can see we've got all the three connectors. They're all different size and color-coded and they attach to the main harness in the vehicle here.The ground is then routed and it will go on this round unit here. It can actually attach to any of the three as long as it finds a good ground point. So I'm going to start by putting some of these connectors together. We've got a small gray one. Two. Wiggle it around. Three. Just push them into the location points. It's a nice good clean ground point. 10 millimeter nut. Pinched up nice and tight and firmly. And that's the electricals done on the inside of the vehicle. All we have left to do really, is really put the left rear corner trim back into place, the base trim I took out and the lamp unit in the left rear corner. Straightforward enough. Back and firmly in place. I'll start on the rear trim. Right, so, the kit is all pretty much finished and installed. Just a quick test connecting it to a trailer with preferably trailer brakes, which is I'm sure why anybody be wanting to purchase it. Because it's got the extra connector on it which is a fabulous idea. After a test everything should be finished and done. The trailer wiring kit again the part number for the Range Rover Sport model YWJ500170ABP. It's Atlantic British's own. They, it comes with full fitting instructions as you can see here. Very good colorful pictures. Very easy to understand and figure out how it goes together. Now you can contact our salesman at any point in time. The direct numbers 1-800-533-2210.
Due to corrosion from and around the battery on your 2002 Discovery Series II, your battery cables may not connect as well as they used to. Rather than resorting to replacing the entire expensive battery harness, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to install this cost-effective
battery cable adaptor kit (# YSB108490K). Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # YSB108490K Battery Cable Repair Kit On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. I want to show you a little innovative part that we just introduced. It's going to be labelled a YSB108490K. What it is is a repair kit for the battery cables on the DS2. Where you have the 2 heavy cables going into 1 connector at the positive side of the battery. Now, up until now your choices were either go to your local auto supply and get one of those cheap little lead connectors and then fool around with trying to get the second cable hooked up which you never really get a good add on connector to handle the type of power that line and that cable is supposed to use. So the other alternative is to buy the whole harness which can be over a thousand dollars easily. So, what we've done is we have come up with a kit that will allow you to properly hook up both the cables that go to the positive lead, go to a single connector with a good heavy connection. And then with a ridged hole in the connector itself so you have a good positive lock on the positive post on the battery. So this is a nice alternative. Very heavy duty and also done very well. The finish on it is very nice. It is marked where you can either put a negative or positive marker on it. In this case we're going to be using it for both the positive cables so we're going to go with the red and we're going to show you how to install that in just a second. All right, so what we have here, this is a 2002 Discovery II, 4 liter engine, got the BOSCH. Battery. Typical condition. We got green fuzz growing all around the bottom of the positive connector. And what also happens is you've started to get some green corrosion building up between the cable and this connector. Now, these are stamped from the factory. They insert the wire. They crimp it down. But you can get moisture and salt up in there which will eventually cause these to corrode out. Happens quite often.All right, so at this point we've got our connection made. We have our 2 connectors on here. You can see this is a nice solid hook up. It's got a nice finish. This is something that is going to last considerably long period of time. You didn't have to buy a $1,400 harness to replace just the 2 ends. This is the best way to go. So, all we need to do now, we're just going to clean up our battery terminals. We want to make sure while you have them apart, now's the best time to do it. You can pick up these little battery brushes any where. And you're just going to run that up inside. We'll clean that up a little bit. Having a clean battery makes a huge difference to how long your battery is going to last. There will be no voltage loss across the top. We'll clean up the tube. Pop that back on. Don't be alarmed if you see a tiny little spark when you first connect it. That's just a connection between all the modules. There's always a little bit of parasitic draw, so it's going to happen. Get that good and snug. And we give it a little wiggle, make sure that's on there good and tight. So, we've done a repair on our battery cables, we've got a really good connection on both and this is something like I said that's going to last for a considerably long period of time. Plus it's rather attractive looking. It's got a nice chrome finish to it. Really nice set up. So, when you're ready to do proper repair on your battery cables on your D2 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Is the exterior moulding or cowl that sits just under the windshield of your D2 cracking and distorting? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates the removal and replacement of the Center Air Intake Moulding (
part # JAK000010PMAG) on our Discovery Series II. This part is also referred to as the Windshield Cowl or Windshield Finisher. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #: JAK000010PMAG Center Air Intake Moulding Replacement On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative hear at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to replace the lower intake cowl for the windshield on your Discovery 2. This is part number JAK000010PMAG. Yeah, it's a bit of a long number. But this is the replacement for the bottom cowl. And it actually includes the filter, which this is actually your cabin filter, in essence. This is what filters your air before it goes into your climate control system. You'll also notice you got four large holes where as you're only going to have 2 openings for the windshield wipers. And that's because this is actually designed after the original equipment to be able to be used on both the right hand or left drive vehicle. And then there are plugs that we're going to take out of the old one that will be installed on this so that it looks just like the original design. Now one thing I do want to mention. Well first off, these are also, there are several different names for these. Some call them a windshield cowl, windshield finisher. We refer to it on our website as a center air intake moulding. So in case you don't remember the number, you haven't written it down, you can use that to look it up on the website. Now as a note, just quickly before we begin installation, when these things come through, sometimes from the delivery, this seal can be pulled back a little bit and there's a little groove in the seal and it sits over a lip right on the edge of the cowl. This is what seats against the windshield. So you just want to check to make sure that this is on and fully seated all the way down its length. It will make a big difference on how it looks when you put it all together. Okay, so what we're going to do now is we're going to show you the installation process. It's not that bad to do. Just need a few tools to do it. And let's get started. First thing we're going to do is we're going to pop the hood on this. The way these are designed, this cowl is very tough to get out without moving the hood out of the way. And it's not all that bad to do this. It's not a lot of un-bolting. What you're going to do is set your hood up. And all you've got is 4 bolts that hold the hood to the hinges. 2 on each side. We're going to take these bolts out and then actually lower the hood and slide it forward, only about 3 or 4 inches. That's all we need. And that will give us enough room for the cowl and still prevent you from having to take the hood all the way off the vehicle.They will spin fairly easy. Just get them snug. Double check and verify. Just to make sure you're still lined up. And once you get them snug, and the hoods not going anywhere, tighten them up from that point. And again, they don't have to be real tight. Bring them in until you feel the bolt seat and then about a quarter of a turn. And we're there. We're just going to do the same to the other side. Once we've done that we know that the hood is going to close exactly like it did before we took it apart. So now you see our hood is on. Our lines are straight. She's on exactly the way it was. Our cowl is in place. Our wipers are there. You want to double check just to make sure the wipers are fully operational. And they park where they're supposed to. And then we're good. Your cowl is in. The other thing I'll mention too is in the process of doing that, if you see you've got problems with these corner finishers, or they look like they could use replacing, this would be a good time to do that. We do offer these also on our website. And we have a video on how to install these as well. So, that would set you up for all the way around the windshield. So, when you're ready to replace your lower intake moulding, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 3) of our video how-to series, as he adds the
Baja Rack Axe and Shovel Bracket to the Baja Roof Rack on our project D2. Please note the Shovel is sold separately as SLI515. Please refer questions and comments about this video to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 3): Installing Axe &Shovel Bracket To Baja Rack (BAJAAXSHBRCKT)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about another addition to our D2 Project, is the shovel. We've all ready got our hi jack, and we've got our Jerry Cans. But you can't go off roading without a shovel. You get in some soft sand, some dirt, whatever. This is a very handy tool to have. It's an easy mount. It's just 2 brackets through each of the side mounts. And they are going to hang exactly like the hi jack mount that we did earlier. And it's just a matter of being pinched onto the side rails of the cargo carrier. And as you can see they do the same with this. You have a nice dense foam insulation on all the corners and the areas where it makes contact with the cargo carrier so it doesn't scratch it all up. You've got all the hardware to install. And they also give you a little pack of grease. They recommend you put a little grease on all the threads as you put this together. So should you ever want to take it back out they're not going to be rusted in place. Especially if you live in areas where there is a lot of salt laid down over the course of the Winter. It's not hard for this stuff to rust up. So it's good to have a little protection on the threads. So what we're going to do is show you how to mount this up, put the shovel in place and get started. All right, so, to begin with, we're going to take 1 bolt, put a washer on the bolt. Set this down right here for now. Then we put our bolt through our back bracket. Set that in place right like so. And what I like to do is set this up so that you'll see that this is manufactured at an angle so that the stud is slightly up, which makes it easier when you go to put things on. It will stay in place, as opposed to putting this upside down and pointing down where everything can drop out. So then we'll run another washer. And we'll put a nut on there. And these are a nylon stop nut, which means you don't need a lock washer. They'll actually lock themselves in place once you tighten them down. Then we'll take the bottom bolt. That through. Washer. Now you'll also notice, you're getting a good look at the bracket right here, you've got 2 areas to hold tools. Upper and a lower. So we're going to put the shovel in the upper. But you still end up with an extra opening on there so if you want to put an axe or another long tool, something else you want to bring along, you can lock that in there as well. So they give you that room to do that. So then we're just going to take 2 9/16th wrenches. I use a ratcheting box wrench and a regular box wrench to hold the head of the bolt. And we'll just run that in until it's good and tight. All right so, we've got our 2 brackets in place. They're locked down pretty good. We're going to put the shovel in the top part. I kind of like to do that because should this get out of my hand or whatnot we've got the 2 studs to sort of catch it. So we're just going to set that there. Put the 1st bracket on. Flat washer. And a big wing nut. Again you want to put some of that grease on the threads. Because obviously of you are out in the woods and you haven't moved your shovel in a while, and these threads rust up you are going to have a hard time getting the shovel off. So a little grease on the threads definitely makes it easier. And we'll put the back one on. And like I said you can see you've got an opening left here when you can put another tool. It's nice having that option. Some guys like to carry an axe. If you have a long handled axe it will fit pretty well in there. And again you have the foam protection in there so it keeps it from getting the tool itself and the hangars and the storage rack from getting all scratched up. And then the safety pins. Just in case the wing nut backs out. It can't go any where. You're not going to lose the tool. So there you go. You've got the shovel mounted. We have our Jerry Cans. Our Project D2 is coming together pretty well. So when you are ready to add accessories to your storage rack on your D2 or any other Land Rover just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
A common issue with Discovery Series II, is the shuttle valve failure on the ABS System. The failure is indicated when the warning lights come on for the ABS, Traction Control and Hill Descent, affectionately known as the "Three Amigos." In this video, learn how to say good-bye to the 3 Amigos. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you options on how to tackle this common issue. He will remove and replace the Hydraulic Control Assembly (special order part # SRB500570 - formally part # SRB101203) on a 2002 Discovery Series II. Doug also discusses replacement of the
ABS Modulator Shuttle Valve Switch (part # SWO500040) in this video. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # SWO500030 / Kit # SWO500040 Special Order Part # SRB500570 (formally SRB101203) Replacement Of Shuttle Valve And Hydraulic Control Assembly On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to go a little more into depth about a common issue with the Discovery IIs, which is a shuttle valve failure on the ABS system. Now normally when these do fail or if a fault code is applied it will turn the 3 lights on, which will be your hill descent, traction control and ABS light, which are affectionately known as the 3 Amigos. Now this isn't the only reason that these 3 lights come on. Any fault in the ABS system is going to cause them to come on so obviously, should they come on, it's telling you the fault code has been set, you want to take it to a shop, or if you all ready have a code reader for the ABS system, you can call that code and if those codes indicate shuttle valve, we're going to go into a little depth here as far as what you may need to do to repair that. Now essentially what I have broken down here is the 3 different levels that you can get into on this system. A lot of guys will initially start with just the shuttle valve replacement. Now this is not actually the valve, but these are the actuating solenoids that open the valves, which are built into the hydraulic block. Now you also have the center block which holds all the solenoid coils which activate the valves, which are built in and sealed in the block along with your electrical connectors, both external and internal. As you can see that's what your shuttle valve assembly plugs into. Now, one of the issues is simply just the failure of one of these solenoids which you replace and adjust this part will be able to repair it. And you can replace this without having to replace all the brake lines off of the hydraulic block. We're going to show you how in a little while. The next step would be if you pull the connections and you see corrosion built up on any of these connectors or on the 2 pins inside, then you're going to want to replace this block as well. It's just like anything else. Once the corrosion is started you can clean it off but within a couple months or a month it's right back. And the lights are back on. So the only proper way to do it is to replace the unit. Now we have the shuttle valves available separately. We have the shuttle valve actuator and the block available as a kit should you find corrosion in there. And then the next step would be to have to replace the hydraulic block. If you remove the shuttle valve which is right there. The 2 solenoids go down through 2 sealed pistons which are the actual base of the valve itself. And those seals can leak. So if you pull this shuttle valve off and you find brake fluid built up on both sides, those pistons are leaking, your best repair is to replace the hydraulic block. Now we do make these available. We can get these on a special order. You would just talk to your salesman about that as far as getting this part.We're going to do what they call a conventional brake bleed. We'll have somebody either pump the pedal or you can use a pressure. I don't know if you've ever used a brake bleeder, pressurized brake bleeders. They attach to the top of the master cylinder. And with fluid apply pressure to push it through. And then we're going to have to hook up a diagnostic tool and do the power bleed. When all is said and done, hopefully we should have a good brake pedal and no more 3 Amigos. Again, I want to note this is not the only cause for the 3 Amigos. Any ABS fault will kick those 3 lights on, so it's always best, pull the codes first. Wheel speed sensors, circuit faults, things of that nature can also turn those lights on. So when you're ready to repair your 3 Amigos, if you want to put them out, and you've found out that your shuttle valves are the cause, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Can't open your front power windows on your Discovery Series II? The moving parts on a window regulator wear out, and if you hit the window switch to open and you hear the window motor running, but the window does not lower, most likely, the links on the regulator have come apart. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to remove the front door panel--using panel popper
W107T, and then access and repair and replace the front left window regulator and window motor. The repair is the same for the front right side. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Replacing Front Window Regulator & Window Motor On Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a common problem that arises on D2s from 1999 to 2004 which is the front window regulator and the front window motor. Now in many cases, and you can usually tell if you have a regulator that's gone bad - you activate the window, you actually hear the motor run, but the window doesn't move. Or you hear a banging going on from inside. And that's basically because one of the links has come apart and is banging around in there. So what we're going to do is show you how to install one. And we do stick both the front left and front right regulators and the motors. We also stock a tool that will help you in taking the door trim off which is our W107T panel popper, so if you don't have one of these tools, and you want to get into this job you want to make sure you order one of these. So now we're going to show you how to actually install that regulator. Alright, before we get into taking the panel off, just a quick rundown. We did have a panel popper that we're going to use to take the panel off the door. A cordless screw driver. You want a Phillips bit with a long extension because 2 of the screws on the bottom are set deep inside. A then probably a very long small straight blade screw driver and that's going to come in handy with taking the electrical connection off the motor. So what we're going to do essentially is take the Phillips screws out from the 2 on the door handle. There's one behind this handle right here. You can pop the bezel out once you've taken the screw out and then there are 4 Phillips screws along the bottom. We're just going to take all those out. And then we're going to show you how to pop this off without doing any damage.You'll find that these holes sit quite deep, and it's hard to get your finger in there. And you can't spin it. And it's a little hard to balance with a screw driver and set it. So a little trick is you can actually put the screw on the end of the magnet. And if you're lined up, it's not going to screw it all the way in but it's at least going to start it. And you'll know it's been started when you pull the magnet away and the screw is left in the hole. So you know it's grabbed on to the nut. So then from that point you're just going to run it in. So now let's put all the screws back in and we'll be all set. So we have our door panel back on. Every thing is nice and tight and in place. All the screws are back on. Our 2 in the handle. One in the bezel and then 4 on the bottom. Pop the top in. Push that piece of molding back down. Our door lock knob is moving free. And our window goes up and down as she should with no bad noise or movement. So, we are set to go. So you'll notice that really didn't take a lot of time. Really didn't need a lot of tools to do it. Basically a very easy do it yourselfer project. And you don't realize how much you want that window to go up and down when it doesn't work. So when you're ready to fix your non working window on your Discovery 2 call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, install the cylinder head used on a 5.0 Liter 2012 Land Rover LR4. Gareth also covers the 4 stages of torque specs for installation. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today we're going to be doing a reinstall of a cylinder head on a five liter LR4 vehicle. The vehicle's age is a 2012. This is the cylinder head we took and removed off of the engine due to severe mechanical damage due to the timing jumping. It bent all the valves in this cylinder head. It's been to the machine shop now returned to us and my job is to reinstall it back on the engine and ensure we get the timing correct and up and running again. We're just showing you the head on the bench right now. The exhaust manifold has been refitted. I'm gonna be reinstalling it. You'll see it probably next when it's actually installed on the engine as it's quite a heavy unit. Sometimes it can take two people to actually put the head back on the car with the exhaust manifold on because it's kind of hefty as it were. As you see the cams are removed at this time. That is because the cylinder head bolts go through the cam carriers and the bearings go on top once the cams re-installed. Of course we can't put the head on and turn it down with the cams in it. We'll do all of that and I'll go through the process of tightening sequence and the two different types of cylinder head bolts that you may possibly have on your engine. Okay so we have the cylinder head mounted to the engine at this point. It's mounted with the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head otherwise you'll never get to get the manifold mounted with the head already mounted on it. There's ten cylinder head bolts. It's an M10 cylinder head bolt. It's a stretch bolt. There is two different types of cylinder head bolts - there's an M11. There is difference in length of about two or three millimeters and different in shape also. I've actually already tightened three, well, just run three bolts down. I'm gonna run the rest down until they're all mated to the cylinder head surface and then we're going to start with the cylinder head tightening sequence. As you can see I've printed out the sheet here. Starting in the middle of the cylinder head one, two, three, four, working around the clock. The first stage of tightening is at 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meter. Third-stage 90 degrees, the last stage, stage four 120 degrees. Right so now I'm gonna start off the first round of torque tightening. The torque wrench is set, I believe it was 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters. I'm going to start at the middle - number one and then literally two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten and we'll let it settle for a minute and then start the second round at 35 Newton meters and then we'll start the torque angle procedure. So I'm at the stage where we're gonna torque to 90 degrees. My degree wheel on the tool locked in place, started, zero it out every time. I'm going to turn to 90 degrees. It's pretty straightforward job. Run it down to the first 90. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then I'm gonna run it down to the second, final stage of stretch which is 120 degrees and we'll take off again when we get to the 120. Start with the 90 right now. Now we have 90 degrees. Take the tool out, start on the next bolt and keep going round in the clockwise manner that it requests in the workshop manual. Okay, so the first stage of the stretch bolts was 90. I've covered all ten. I'm gonna start the last and second stage of 120 degrees and video a couple. I'll go through the rest and we'll start off again when we're about to mount the camshafts. There's the first one at 120 I'm gonna take it out and move it to the next stop, step. So all 10 cylinder head bolts have been tightened down to torque spec. We have the tool for the cylinder head bolts. It's kind of got a long shank on it. It is not quite a Torx bit. It's a special order. We carry them in stock here. It comes with the nylon sheath to stop any damage to the cylinder head especially when you're cranking on it. Literally sits like that. Okay so now the cylinder head bolts are tightened. We can install the camshafts. They're quite definable from side to side intake and exhaust and exhaust here intake here. As you can see it's got the extra hurt lobes on it for the variable, the high lift on the intakes. I'm just going to mount them in loosely for now. Get the cam caps and tighten them down. Of course you can't talk the head until the cams are out as you can see them install through underneath the carriers for the bearings of the camshafts. So I'll install these loosely, put the caps on and we'll torque them down to spec. So I'm gonna run the bolts all the way down till they seat. Just initial contact and then I'm gonna start to tighten them down evenly right the way across the camshaft so we don't have any issues of a tight cam or anything and take a quick break. I've got to get the specs for torquing of these screws and we'll be back. Okay so both the cams are installed. They are pinched, not torque tightened yet. They're just pinched down into place. I loaded the cams in the head so that they were as close as they could be to being timed up. After I torque them I'm gonna turn the cams manually, put the cam locks in and then I'm gonna start on the install of all the timing chains, tensioners and guides. We've been through that before but we can go over it again. The main thing was to show install of the cylinder head, torquing the head bolts, torquing in the new cam well, the reinstalling of the cams and the cam caps. I'll go ahead and run up to the office area and pick up the torque specs for these and then we'll be back and do a quick torque sequence of the camshafts. Okay so the torque spec settings for these bearing cap screws are 11 Newton meters which is 8 pounds feet, and about 97 pounds inches. The sequence one, two, three, four, five. Same on the exhaust caps, same torque specs. So I'm gonna torque those down and then turn the cam so I can put the cam timing lock tools into position and then start building up the timing gears, put the variators on, put the chains on and time up the engine. [inaudible] The back ones are a little bit awkward to see and get to. The front ones are easier to see and get to. 11. 11. A fraction over 12. A little bit more difficult to see these back ones. 11. All set. So camshafts are all torque tightened to spec. Next thing I'm going to do is turn them, put the cam locks in, and again, like I say, start on timing up the cams. That's pretty good. This is gonna be the awkward one to get to. A little bit horizontal. Okay so we just wanted to give you an idea of torquing with cylinder heads, with the engine installed. That cylinder head I mounted a little bit prior of course. You didn't actually see that. It's a little awkward, especially with the extra weight of the exhaust manifold on it but it can be done. The torque specs again 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters, 90 degrees, 120 degrees. Pretty straightforward. The cams are in and mounted, torqued to 11 Newton meters starting with the front bearing caps working your way back. I've actually already put in the cam lock so the cams are timed, ready for the timing chains and variators to be installed. That's about all we have - mounting and installing the cylinder head. Pretty straightforward.
Is the car alarm of your LR3, LR2 or Range Rover Sport mysteriously going off in the middle of the night?
Watch Jim and Doug, our Land Rover Master Technicians, as they replace the likely culprit, the faulty Hood Alarm Switch in the Hood Latch Assembly of your vehicle. Using part #
LR041431OEM, Doug takes you through the process of installing the new switch into the existing latching assembly. Optionally, if you find it necessary that the entire latching assembly be replaced--due to corrosion of the moving pieces in the assembly--see part # LR065340G, which is Land Rover's new design that includes the entire latching fixture with the alarm switch. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Replacing the Hood Latch for the LR3 and Range Rover SportHi it's Jim. I take care of the technical support here at Atlantic British. To start out this video I want to introduce you to your new technical support guy, Doug. I'm getting old so I'm going to step out of the way and the young generation is going to take over. In this video we're going to show you how to replace the hood switch on your LR3. This will apply to a Sport also. A lot of times you will get hoods open, you'll get an alarm fault; it's a good possibility it's the switch on the right front hood latch. So I am going to turn it over to Doug. He is going to show you how easily it is to change this switch. Easily. First thing we are going to do is take the grill out, and that's going to give you easy access to the 2 bolts that hold the latch in place. Now this is an LR3, which is going to have 4 clips across the top and then 2 more tucked in along the bottom. On a Sport you'll disconnect the top 4 and your going to give a good hard yank to pull the grill out. You are going to grab number 30 torque, mine is sort of custom made, so you made need a short extension on yours as well. And what you're going to do is loosen up the 2 bolts on either side of the latch. You're going to remove them completely. And always put them down where you can find them. Just that easy, just that quick. Now on the backside is your electrical connector. You are just going to squeeze the tab, and you're going to remove, and then you can slide this forward. Take your steel spacer, don't lose this, put this on this side. Now this lower assembly right here is your switch. And if you look at the new one that's going to go in its place, you just simply have 2 lock tabs that hold that in place. So it is a pop out, pop in situation. So we'll place that there, we'll grab a small screw driver and you're going to reach in underneath. You want to push that tab in. You can hear it click when it releases, and it pulls right out. And you're going to take the new one, same positioning, push that back up in place and then once they seat you'll hear them click. Nice solid click, you know it's in. Don't forget your steel plate. The easiest way is to atleast start with 1 bolt through the latch and the plate, slide it back in place. Take a few threads, put it on just to get it started. And then you'll put your other bolt on. Now, when you go to put it back together, you want to look for your witness marks on your latch because you want to put the latch back in the same position that it was in. And you'll see the steel plate, where it sits, where the latch originally was, is clean. So you push the latch in, line it up with the steel plate. Snug one side. Go to the other and do the same thing. Bring the area up with the latch so it lines up. The clean part falls in behind the washer, so you know the bolt is in the same position. Snug that one. Go to the other side, finish tightening the bolt on the other side and just take your electrical connector and you're going to plug right in on the backside. And again, when it's in right you'll hear it click. You know it's latched into place. Essentially you're done. You're going to pop your grill back on and you're all set. Nothing needs to be programmed or added. And, here at Atlantic British you can get your switch. Call us on the phone, 1-800-533-2210, get our sales department. Tell them what's going on with your car. They can probably figure out which part you need, the switch. Like we said it's good for LR3s, I believe LR4s, the Sports and alot of the Land Rovers, the later ones. So either give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 or check us out at RoverParts.com and get your hood switch, get rid of that annoying message or maybe your alarm going off in the middle of the night for no reason at all.
How to remove the door panel on a Land Rover Discovery Series II, 1998 - 2004. Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to remove the driver side door panel on a Discovery II. Jim offers helpful tips, and notes why an owner would want to remove their panel. Jim also identifies the Land Rover window regulator and window motor location.
Accessing Window Regulator, etc. Door Panel Removal On Discovery Series II (Similar process for other Rover models)Hi it's Jim. I take care of the technical support here at Atlantic British. A lot of you in the fan club must know that by now. Today we're going to show you how to get a door panel off a Discovery 2. It's a pretty good example because most other Rovers are very similar. What you are going to need is like a Phillips screw driver and a panel popper. You can get a panel popper here at Atlantic British. It's almost an invaluable tool. You can use it for a lot of stuff. I'm going to start by taking the screws out. On this panel you'll find a screw here, here, here, there's one down here. There's one there. And there's another on in this little hole here. And you have to kind of maneuver this out of the way. Put the screw in this pocket. While I think about it, another handy gadget is a magnet. You can like grab the screw with the magnet. Then you don't drop it. That would have been the time for the magnet. There's another one right here. Once you get the screws out, the next thing you want to do is take this cheater off. That's where mister panel popper comes in. Another thing I like to do is to pull this weather strip out. It makes moving this around a lot easier. After that, you take your panel popper, you kind of slide it in here. And you kind of get a feel for where each clip is. And you can just pull it. Now you may be wondering why I dropped my tool, but that just happened. Why you would be in here. One reason would be to replace a window regulator. I'm just getting this out of the way. To do the window regulator, you'd be taking off this plastic. And then you can see there's bolts here, here, here and you would take it off the glass and just take it out. Another reason for being in here is the door latch, which is a pretty prominent failure in this car. And extra added thing you'd have to do is you'd be pulling off this window frame to get the door latch out. That's about it for taking it off. A good thing to have when you're doing this job are these clips. We sell them. I think there's like 7 or 8 goes on this door panel. It's good to have a handful of them when you're starting the job because this is what happens. They get stuck in here and they break. Now to put it back on you just put the clips back on and snap it in place. Door panel tool again. Make sure you have them all out of the door. And then these just slide back on there. It's good to replace these because these are relatively inexpensive. And when you're done just plug everything back in. Now this job does come with a little fumbling around trying to figure out where all these little clips go back in. It's best to start from the top. You can see usually through the side where you are going to go. I think there's one right there. As you can see it just kind of snaps back on. After that you want to slide this piece back on there. Like that. Plastic trim goes next. Next part is to put all the screws back in. While I'm thinking about it, another good tool to have is some kind of an aligning pin because a lot of times you have to line up the holes to get the screws started. Slide that back in. You would just continue on and just put a screw back in each hole where you took one out. Like I said you can buy the clips here for the door panel, here at Atlantic British. You can check it out on RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. You can ask our sales department about the clips, or the window regulator, what else you need inside this door. If you have been following us on our blogs, a good thing, you can actually do a live chat with the sales people. Just log on to the website. You click on the live chat, and then you can ask your questions to a sales guy and he'll be happy to answer. Like I said, once again it's Roverparts.com. 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to replace the tail lamp assembly on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Applicable Part #s
XFB500370G (LH) / XFB500360G (RH). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #s: XFB500370G / XFB500360G Tail Lamp Assembly Replacement on Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a tail light assembly replacement for the L322. And this will basically cover any of the Full Size Range Rovers from 2003 all the way up to 2009. Now what we have is a replacement here. This is an item that we stock. And unfortunately because of the height of these, where these tail lights are, they seem very susceptible to be hit. Whether you back into something or somebody has backed into you. And what happens is once you crack that outer shield, these can end up filling up with water, which you can actually see right here. We've got so much water we've actually stocked it with fish. And when you get an opening like this this water works its way in and ends up creating havoc with all the electric connections inside the tail light. So we want to change that over. So, very easy replacement. And something you can do right in the driveway. 2 simple tools is all you need. Small quarter inch ratchet with a 10 millimeter socket. And a plastic vinyl trim remover. I like the wide one, and you'll see why in a minute. And you have 2 10 millimeter head bolts. 1 in the top. 1 on bottom. And we're simply going to take those out of there. Put them aside so you can find them when you're looking for them. And then over here, the only thing that really holds this part in right here is 2 little tabs that stick out and lock into plastic washers, or basically a nut in the body itself. And you just take your plastic tool. Pop that out of there. You're going to turn this sideways. Now you have 2 squeeze tabs on the side of this connector. And that pulls that out. +And this has a press tab on the outside, and we're going to slide that out. And you can see, how much water can build up in a short period of time. And you can imagine what that does to all the electrical connections, the sockets and the bulbs inside that light. It's still coming. So. You'll see that the light does come complete with the whole socket base. All new bulbs. All new sockets including the side marker light and then breather tubes to help ventilate any condensation that builds up in there. So, the unit goes like so. We'll plug in the side marker light in first. I'm going to push that in. You should hear a click. Sometimes you can just even put your finger on top of the tab, make sure it's fully seated. And give a pull down to make sure it's not going to come out of there. And then the same with the main connector. There we go. Hear a little pop. And we're just going to line it up again on this side like we had before. Now we have it popped in. You can see we have an even seam on the backside. We've got the nuts lined up for our bolts. And we'll take that, spin them in a few turns to get them started. And voila. We put a new tail light assembly in. Now at this point you want to have an assistant or a friend or whatever come around back while you operate all the lights just to verify everything is working properly. Once you're done that, you're good to go. And you've just replace your whole tail light assembly in a matter of minutes. So when you're ready to change over your damaged lights on your Full Size L322, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen, 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an iOS device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the iOS device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On iOS Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more: checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so let's begin. I'm going to show you how to load up your iLAND program onto your iphone or your ipad. You're going to go to app store. And when you go to app store, at the top when you search you're going to search for iLAND diagnostics. And that's i-l-a-n-d, no s. Once you get on iLAND diagnostics, you'll hit install and you're going to install the app on your phone. So, now you've downloaded your app, you'll find your icon on your main screen, on your home screen. So we'll hit that. So now we're going to go through registration process. Looks like a log in screen, but you'll see here in the lower left sign up. Hit that. And now you're going to feed the information. Of course it will say USA if you're in the United States. And then essentially what you're going to do at this point, you're going to enter your email address and then it's going to ask you to do it twice to confirm the correct email.All right, so we're essentially ready to do the next step will obviously the pairing. So we're going to pair up the phone now with the dongle so that once the two are connected, you'll have full use of your iLAND. So what essentially you're going to go to your Bluetooth settings. All right, go to settings, pull up Bluetooth, make sure Bluetooth is on. And then when you do a scan, the serial number for your unit is going to appear on your screen. Simply connect to it. Once you've done that, you're all set. So we'll get out of settings. We'll go back to our main screen. Let's hit iLAND. And now immediately all our vehicles come up. So if you're using an individual, you're just going to hit that, say you set yours up for a Range Rover, hit Range Rover and that's going to put you on the screen that's going to allow you to do all your diagnostics. And that we'll cover further in other vehicles. For now we want to show you how to do your initial set ups so you can get started using the iLAND. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the transmission service (using
kit # TRANSM200SKA) on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: TRANSM200SKA Performing Transmission Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on the transmission fluid and filter change kit that we have available through our maintenance and repair academy for the 2003 to 2005 ZF 5 speed used in the L322 Full Size Range Rover. Now this is only for 2003 to 2005, which was a 5 speed, and it does require a regular change of fluid. Now we have recommended 75,000 miles change the fluid over. If you put your vehicle through harder service, do a lot of towing, or if you live in an excessively hilly area, where you're constantly either climbing or descending, you might want to do on a more regular basis. Maybe closer to 60,000. But the kit which you'll see here, which is on a sheet that is downloadable and printable from our website online, is the transmission service kit TRANSM200SKA. And you'll see that it comes with 5 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, which is the best fluid to use in these transmissions. A new filter. New pan gasket. Transmission filter retaining screws which are these 2 small screws here. A new oil pan gasket and a drain plug. You'll see you have everything shown here. Now this is your, here's your new O ring for your filter. And the 5 quarts should be more than enough to top the system back off and get it to the proper level, along with a new plug, because you'll see a seal built into the back of the plug. So when you take the original one out, you want to check around the hole, make sure that that seal didn't stick in place, it will interfere with this one. And you always want a new seal when you put the plugs on. So, this is our transmission kit we have available. And in a minute we're going to raise this vehicle and we'll give you some tips on how you can do the filter and fluid changeover on your Full Size Range Rover. So now you've seen the kit. And we're going to give you a basic rundown on how to do a transmission service on your L322. Essentially your pan is very easy access. There's no shields. There's no cross bars. It's right out in the open. What you have is approximately 21 small bolts that hold this pan in all the way around. You're going to need a 25 torx drive to remove them. I usually recommend your best bet is to do it on, especially on these, do these with a 3/8ths drive which will give you a little bit more torque and be able to crack them loose easier. You'll find some of them might be kind of snug and you almost feel like you're going to break it. If it is really tight because you basically have a steel bolt in the aluminum hosing which is the case of the transmission, you take a small punch and put it right on the face of the bolt and wrap it a few times with a hammer and normally that will break them loose enough where you can get them to back out. Now before you even take those bolts out, you have a drain plug right here on the transmission pan. You'll need a number, an 8 millimeter allen or a 5 / 16th. Either one will work. Pull the plug. Drain it out. This way you won't end up with a large mess once you do take the other 21 bolts out to drop the pan. Once the pan is out, you'll simply be looking at the bottom of the filter. And as you saw with the initial picture with the kit, you have 2 small bolts that hold the filter in place. They sit at an angle, if you take the 2 bolts out make sure you have a good size pan because even when you drop that filter some fluid is going to splash out and you really don't need to make a mess on the driveway floor. So, once you have that down, you're going to take the new filter, make sure you put the new O ring on the inlet. Take the 2 new bolts. Set it right back up in place. Snug the bolts in. They don't have to be super tight. Probably generally not more than about 15 foot pounds of torque. You get a new gasket. You clean the old gasket off the pan and off the surface of the transmission. And if it makes it a little bit easier, there's a number of different sprays and adhesives out there, like called a Hi Tack or a Permatex, which you can spray on the surface of the gasket. Let it get tacky and then you can apply it to the pan. This way it will hold it in place as your setting the pan up. Run a couple bolts in to get things started. Run the rest of your bolts in. Snug them up nice and tight. Reinstall your drain plug. And then, right here, just above my finger, is going to be your refill. That's also an 8 millimeter. Now it's going to be really tight the 1st time you go to crack it loose. So I would probably recommend use breaker bar with a little bit of length and a good short socket so you don't snap the socket apart. Then, using a suction gun, or even now they have some small 12 volt motorizes pumps that you can run the fluid in, top this off until you have fluid running out of the hole. Then you're going to start your vehicle. You're going to leave it in park. Let it run until it warms up. And then you are going to take that plug back out and then fill it until you get a basically a drip about once every second. And that's your fluid level. So, it's basically all you need to do a transmission service on your L322. Now this is the 5 speed that was used from 2003 to 2005. And give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit #
LR097165GK, which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Five
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Five of our video how-to series, as he installs front (
TF838) and rear ( TF839) differential guards on our project D2. Doug will discuss the importance of adding protection to your front and rear differentials if you intend on using your D2 for off-road. When off-roading, these guards will add an extra layer of protection to your vehicle's underside. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Five: Installing Front & Rear Differential Guards (TF838 &TF839)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And as we continue on with Project D2, we're on to the next step. And what we have next in line is going to be the pair of differential guards, the front and rear diffs. Something that a lot of the guys overlook, but should you ever put a rock though your differential case and you want to be able to make it home, these would be advised to go that route. These will protect the differentials. They are cast metal so they can be dented. They can be punctured so to speak if you catch a good rock. So these are actually a good add on to add to your vehicle. We're trying to turn this into a really high level off-road vehicle, these will definitely assist in doing that. So what we have here is the front guard which is Terrafirma. This is the TF838. This comes with the bracket, 1 extra mounting bracket and your hardware. We have the rear kit, the TF839. Again with your guard, your attachment bracket and the hardware you need to attach that. The instructions are fairly simple. They do come with the kits. But we're going to show you basically how to install them right on our Project D2. Alright. Just to show you a test fit. You put the front guard over, we're going to slide that over in place. Now some vehicles may have a guard that loops around this back drag link, right at the back of the diff. And some don't. Now in this case this one does not. But there are 2 pre-drilled tap holes at the very end of the differential for that bracket. And we're going to use those 2 holes for the attachment in the back on the bottom. Now if it does not have that bracket, there's a good chance that those holes, and we're going to come around and we're going to show you those in just a second, id they're filled with mud or dirt or whatnot, you want to tap those out so that we have a nice clean thread when we go to put it in. The other thing you're going to want to do, and it even mentions it in the instructions, if you test slide this. Essentially you're going to be looking at how this bracket attaches to the back of this cover, and then these 2 holes will automatically line up with 2 top bolts in the back side of the diff. You're going to take those bolts out and then this gets bolted back in its place. So if you're not sure which 2 to take off, you can just test fit the bracket towards the back, it's going to line up with the 2. Those are the 2 you're going to remove and it's even listed in the instructions. Now just quickly too, I'm going to mention, they actually give you a list of tools required, before you go to install it. So it would be a good idea to dig these tools out and have these ready for you before you install. You have a 9/16th deep socket or spanner wrench, you can use either. 15 millimeter socket. And you can do that in either half inch or 3/8th inch drive. A 13 millimeter wrench. A ratchet for your socket. Again, 3/8th or half inch. And then a 6 to 12 inch extension. Those tools will easily install this cover. It's just a matter of a few bolts. Now on some of these vehicles you're going to have a U shaped bracket that wraps around this drag link and they're going to be bolted through to these 2 holes right here. You can see that this vehicle did not come equipped with it, and sure enough, the holes have gotten dirt and mud packed up inside there. You don't want to run the bolts for the new bracket up in there, so you're just simply going to take a chaser, and you can get a socket that fits the backside. That makes it a little bit easier. And you're just basically going to run it up in there and you're going to want to clean that mud out of there. Doesn't even hurt to spray a little bit of penetrating lube in there, and as that drips out it's going to take a lot of the dirt and garbage that's built up in there out. You may have to run it a couple times in there until you don't really feel much grit as you run through there. I can actually see it fall out of the hole as I run this in. And it goes in fairly easy because we're just dealing with a little bit of dirt. Alright. Going to shoot a little penetrating oil in there and the essentially all we need to do with this is we're going to take the 2 top bolts out. We're going to line up the bracket. We're going to see that we are basically dealing with there's a bolt that if you're facing the back of the differential you have a bolt at say 11:30 and another bolt at 1 o'clock. You're going to take those 2 out. Insert your bracket. Put your main bracket on. Run the 2 bolts. You're basically done. Alright, so, before we tighten everything up and this it what I wanted to explain, put the shields on, don't go tightening everything first thing. I put to 2 bolts on, lock them on. You want to basically get all the bolts started. You have the 2 bolts here in the back. The threads have been cleaned out. They're started. You have the bolt and the flat washer. And then up top, where the small accessory bracket bolts on, we've got the 2 bolts in the diff back in place. Couple threads started there. And then we've got the 2 nuts and bolts that hold the accessory bracket onto the guard itself. Now with everything being loose, we've got everything started. Now we can just tighten it all up and you're going to be in and then we're going to do the rear as well. Alright, so we're going to do the rear, and essentially what I'm going to do is hang it in place because the application is the same as the front. You've got 2 bolts down here at the very bottom of the differential case. These 2 bolts actually hold an anti-vibration weight on here. Some vehicles may have it, some may not. But if you have it, you run the 2 bolts out we're going to be starting with clean thread so it shouldn't be a problem there. And again the shield wraps around. You have a small add-on bracket on top and you're going to run those are going to line up with 2 top bolts on the differential, you're going to run the 2 nuts and bolts from the bracket to the add-on bracket. And essentially tighten everything down exactly like we did with the front. So I'll set everything in place, and we'll give you a look at it before we tighten everything up. So here we are with the back plate in place. As I said it's the same application as the front. You just have these 2 nuts and bolts that hold the 2 brackets together. You have the front of the small bracket being held by 2 bolts in the front of the pumpkin. And then on the bottom what we've done is omit that heavy weight that's back there and installed the bottom of this plate in place of that weight. As I said because that bolts already in there, you didn't have to go through the tap and die and all that. We blew penetrating oil and it ran right in. So you have a good solid protection there. Plus they give you access holes. So if you need to do a drain, which your drain plug is right here, and your fill plug here, you can still do maintenance without having to take the cover back off, which is a definite plus. So when you're ready to upgrade, put diff guards on your D2, and as again, follow along with us as we go along with Project D2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains what to listen for when the rear sway bar bushings on a 2006 - 2009 Range Rover Sport go bad. Doug then shows you how to replace of these bushings using
part # RVU000022. This replacement service is also valid on the Range Rover Sport Supercharged and Full Size, 2006 - 2009, along with the LR3, 2005 - 2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part #:RVU000022 Rear Sway Bar Bushing Replacement Demonstrated on 2008 Range Rover Sport with Directional Stability ControlHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a component that frequently fails on the Sports and the LR3s from 2006 to 2009. And that's the sway bar bushings. Believe it or not they do take a lot of stress and over a period of time they'll dry out, they'll shrink and if you're in an area where it is heavily salted in the winter time, it's going to dry them out even faster. And one of the symptoms is usually either a bumping or a knocking from the back of the vehicle on slow speed bumps. And you'll hear it vibrate all up and down through the frame. What happens is a lot of guys will automatically go to the sway bar links there at the end of the sway bars, and they really don't give much consideration to the bushings, that are sort of hidden in here. And essentially this is what they look like. It's nothing more than wraps around the sway bar. Now, the vehicle that we have here is a 2008 Sport, with directional stability control, which is essentially power assisted sway bars. They have a hydraulic ram in them, which creates even more stress on the bushings, so don't be surprised, maybe at only 4 or 5 years old that these bushings are all ready creating noise, need to be replaced. Now the repair is relatively easy. It's only 4 bolts. But it's just where they are hidden they can be hard to get at. So it usually will require some out of the ordinary tools to get to, but with those tools, it makes this job very, very easy. And we're going to show you how to do that. I'm going to talk about the 2 wrenches that I find are probably handiest at trying to do this. And one they call an offset box wrench. 12 point works better than 6, only because with a 12 point you don't have to go as far a swing to be able to grab onto the bolt for the next turn. So 12 point works pretty well. Plus with the offset it gets you clear of some of the minor obstructions in there. And you can use this to break it loose. Once you've got the bolt loose, then usually switch over to a ratcheting box wrench. And I like the length because of the leverage. A shorter one will work fine after you've broken the bolt loose, but I like the additional leverage. Plus in this particular model, on the other end of it I do have a box wrench that does have a slight offset which will grab onto the bolt. The only thing you need to be concerned with, is that when the bolts get very close to the frame, because there is no reversing lever, you want to make sure that you can get that wrench out between the top of the bolt and the body of the vehicle so that you can finish taking the bolt out. So always keep that in mind, make sure you leave yourself a space, and then once you reach that point you can either get in there with a regular open end wrench or whatever and take it out the last several threads and the bolt will be out. So that's essential it. So we're just going to take those 2 bolts out using these 2 wrenches and then we'll show you the actual installation of the bushing. All right. So before we take this apart, I want to give you a little more detailed idea of what we are dealing with. And essentially what we have is you see this round object right here, this is the bushing or the bracket that actually holds the bushing down. You have a bolt towards the rear right here. And then you have another bolt in the front right there. 13 millimeter heads and they're somewhat long because this is designed to hold this down. This takes a lot of stress. Now again as I've mentioned, this has the directional stability control, so this is essentially power assisted sway bars, so they can create a lot of stress, so the bolts are a good inch long. So again, you want to make sure that you take your wrench out of there before you bring that bolt up too high so that you can get the wrench out and then get the remainder of the volt out. So we're going to take these 2 off and then we'll show you how to lift the bracket up and out of there and remove the bushing. All right, so, we worked the 2 bolts out, and you can see that we've got the sway bar loose now. And we have our gentle persuader. And we just get up underneath the ears of the bracket, front and back, and we're going to lift it right up and off of that bushing. Angle that towards the back so we can clear that. And it will just squeeze off between the body and the bracket. And there's your mounting bracket right there. Now the bushing has a split in it so you can remove it without having to disassemble the sway bar. Normally the split is going to face towards the back of the vehicle. Now this gets a little touchy because this bushing is old and dried out so they don't come off easy and you need the pry bar to get inside that split. And try and lift that out of there. Here's the old bushing as it is. You can see the wear and tear on the outside edges as opposed to the new one. And if you look very closely you can see you have a little bit smaller diameter on the new one versus the old one. So as I said, here's your split and what we're going to do is reinstall this sitting in this direction with the split facing the back of the vehicle, just the way it was as original equipment. Then we slide that bracket back over the top of it. And run the 2 bolts back in, and we're essentially installed. Got it installed. Now when you go to put the 2 bolts back in, you do have a little bit of play on that bushing and the bracket. You can move it in and out about half an inch. So the easiest I have found is just to put the bracket on partially over the bushing, leaving a small gap so you can see where your threaded hole is for your bolt. Run the bolt through. Line them up, then you can thread them in by hand. Yeah, you can get your hand in there, but it takes a little patience. And then you'll feel the bracket seat over the top of the bushing. Now if you look at the old bushing, you'll see that there is an indentation here, and there's a matching indentation on the bracket so that it centers the bracket on the bushing. And you'll feel it, it won't really go on until it centers itself. So you can move that bushing and bracket in and out just a little to get those bolt holes lined up. And then again once you get started, run them in with a wrench, tighten them up good, and then go to the other side and do the exact same thing on the other side and you've got your new bushings in place. So when you're ready to changeover the rear sway bar bushings on any of the Land Rover vehicles, in this case the Sport, you can just call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
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You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
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Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
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