radiator videos
Take a tour around the Land Rover Discovery Series 2, 1999 - 2004, cooling system. Watch Jim as he identifies the various components of the Discovery 2 cooling system, including the radiator and hoses. Jim also provides useful tips and information.
Watch our Land Rover Technician, Doug, give an in-depth and step-by-step demonstration of the replacement of the coolant hoses and thermostat on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005. The proper hose kit includes all the coolant hoses and thermostat necessary for a full service replacement. This procedure is recommended every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: 9370LSKA Replacing Coolant Hoses & Thermostat On Range Rover Full Size 2003 - 2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch on the cooling hose kit for the 2003 to 2005 Range Rover Full Size, the HSE. And what we're going to do is actually show you how to install this kit. Now what comes with the kit is essentially every cooling hose under the hood. Your heater hoses. Upper and lower radiator hoses. Bypass and vent hoses. We also include the thermostat, which is a known unit for these to create problems, so it's good to put a new thermostat in while you have the system broken down. It includes the O rings to seal the unit. And factory plug. And the kit number which is part of our maintenance and service program is 9370LSKA. Includes all these hoses, thermostat and basically everything you need to replace the hoses under the hood. Okay, so if you have access to one it is always best when you're done doing anything in the cooling system. You've put some anti freeze in it and you're now going to do a pressure test. And essentially what you're going to do by pumping it up you're going to apply a fair amount of pressure to this system. And then give it a little bit of time so if there is a leak, or if there is a slow leak, it will show up. And you're simply just going to go around and check all the points where you've put a connection on and see if there is any wetness. Upper and lower hose. Bypass hoses. Back to your heater hoses. Your 2 connections at the back of the engine. Your connections upfront by the access auxiliary pump and to the control valves. And it looks like we're all nice and dry at all out points. And actually it's usually best some times to leave this for about half an hour. Walk away from it. Come back. See if your pressure reading has dropped. If it's right about where you had it at, where you left it, you're good to go. Now it's just a matter of take this back off. We'll top the system off. Put it back together and do a road test just to make sure everything is on good and tight. Okay so now we've tested our system, we've buttoned it up. We're going to put the covers and the plenum chamber back in which we showed you how to take that out in the beginning. Very simple installation. And that pretty much wraps up the installation of the hose kit. Now again the part number of this hose kit is 9370LSKA. We'll give you all the hoses that you need. You follow these directions you should have no problem installing them. To order this kit you can call our number at 1-800-533-2210 and any our knowledgeable salesmen will be happy to help you out.
Watch Doug as he takes you through an ACE Filter and Fluid Service for a Range Rover Sport. Procedure works for vehicle models from 2006 through 2013. ACE Filter (Item # RVJ100010) and ACE Fluid (Item # STC50519G) are needed for the service.
ACE Filter and Fluid Service for Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2013 Equipped with Directional Stability ControlHi I'm Doug, your tech representative for Atlantic British, and we're going to do a video on how to replace your filter for your ACE system on 2006 to 2013 Range Rover Sports. Now we did an earlier video to describe how you can identify whether your Sport is equipped with that or not simply by the additional reservoir on the right hand side of the radiator. In this video we are going to show you how easy it is to change the filter. Now the filter looks like this. The kit comes with a filter and with the O ring and is easily replaced, simply from underneath the vehicle. Now, Land Rover recommends in their maintenance schedule that this filter be replaced every 75 thousand miles, and in the same time you can also drain off a fair amount of fluid which with the fresh fluid and fresh filter, bring your system back up to full operating specs. Now again, the filter does come with a new O ring, which is good, and we're going to show you the simple and easy procedure to change this. Now you're also going to need a couple quarts of ACE fluid which we also stock. This is also your power steering fluid, so it's also good to have a little bit around the house any way just to top of fluids when you need to. And as you can see, this is made specifically for the ACE system. There are substitute fluids that you can use that some people will recommend, power steering fluid and what not, but we recommend that you do not use that. Land Rover says definitely use the ACE fluid for that system and for power steering, it is the most compatible fluid for that system. Now I'm going to show you where the location is for this filter. I'm going to bring this over. With the vehicle raised in the air, and on the passenger side of the vehicle, is the valve block for the ACE system. Now the system is also described in the Sports as Directional Stability Control, so if you hear that referred to they're also talking about this same block. This large nut right here, which is an inch and a half, is removed, and the filter simply slides out and the new one slides back in. You replace the O ring back on the nut, and then replace the cap back in nice and tight and snug. Now you can allow the system to drain off with this plug out. There won't be any pressure in the plug when you take this out with the engine not running and the pumpnot operating there will be no pressure, so you don't have to worry about that. You may, however, get splattered a little bit so you want to stand back. Let the fluid drain. You may need to grab the filter with a pair of pliers. Sometimes they do get a little snug, especially on first time changeover. Reinstall the new one in the same position as you took the old one out in. Reinstall your cap. Drop the vehicle down. Top off the tank. Start the vehicle. Let it run for a minute or so. Shut it down and then set your level in your reservoir. And again, the reservoir for the ACE is on the right hand side of the radiator and does use ACE fluid. And that's pretty much it. This is a fairly simple maintenance item. Again recommended every 75 thousand. A lot of people forget to do that. It is advisable and it will obviously help keep the ACE system operating properly. That's about it, and we'll see you in the next video. Again. if you should decide to do this on your vehicle, we do stock the parts here at Atlantic British, and you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks again.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1997 Defender 90. Using our Coolant Hose and Thermostat Kit , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles.
Kit #: 9373SKB Replacing Coolant Hose & Thermostat On Defender 90, 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in the video we're going to touch base on the coolant system service for your 1997 Defender 90 as part of your maintenance and service program. Now I want to show you the kit first. And the kit will include your upper and lower radiator hose. Your heater hoses. Your short stub hose off the front of the engine. Your bleeder screw for your one hose to bleed the system out when you're done. New O ring. Thermostat and thermostat gasket. Now the coolant doesn't come with this. We generally don't supply coolant. It's hard to ship so you can get that through your local supplier, any automotive center will have the proper coolant for this. You do want to use the orange oats technology coolant in this vehicle. It's what's recommended for use by Land Rover. Do not use the green ethyl glycol. Now what we're going to do is give you the basics and show you the locations of these hoses, and some tech tips on how to install. So, essentially what will do now is at this point is we're going to top it off with coolant, we're going to let it bleed down, we're going to start the vehicle. And we can start it without the fan. Just going to run it for about a minute. All we want to do is essentially run it for a minute, shut it down, check for any leaks because now is the time to do it, while you have easy access to your connections. If everything looks good, put your fan, your belt and your shroud back in place, which is just the opposite of your removal and you're ready to go on down the road. So, when you're ready to change over the hoses on your Defender, Discovery or any other Land Rover, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # 9370D2SKA , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles.
Kit # 9370D2SKA Installing the Coolant Hoses & Thermostat on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base and introduce our hose and thermostat kit for the Discovery 2, 1999 to 2004. This is with the 4 liter GEMS engine. And with your kit you are going to get your upper and lower radiator hoses, your 2 vent hoses, your cooler hose to your thermostat heater - both your long and short hose, your 2 heater hoses and lower radiator hose and external thermostat. Now this is a service that is recommended every 90,000 miles right be Land Rover. Over a period of time these hoses wear inside and dry out and get hard and brittle on the outside. So to prevent a problem further down the line, it's usually recommended at least before 100,000 miles you should change all these hoses over. Now the hoses even come with the bleeders in them, just as the original equipment. This way when you're done you can bleed the air out of the system. And this is going to be part of our service, maintenance and repair kit. You'll find this kit listed on our maintenance sheets that we now have on our website. You can download and print these sheets. This particular kit is Kit H, Coolant Hose and Thermostat and the part number is 9370D2SKA. And that will give you everything you see displayed here. Now in a minute we'll give you a rundown and show you how to install your kit. And in the process, you'll also being adding new coolant to the system which is also good to do on a regular basis. So again, when you're ready to change the hoses over on your Disco 2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS engine. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # 9369SKA , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: 9369SKA Installing the Coolant Hose & Thermostat Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to discuss the coolant and thermostat replacement kit as part of the repair and maintenance academy program for your 1996 to 1999 P38 Full Size Range Rover with the GEMS engine. Now if you are not sure if you have a GEMS engine or not, you can refer back to one of our other videos that actually tells you how to identify either the GEMS or the BOSCH design engine. So in this case we have a complete set of hoses: upper and lower radiator hoses; heater hoses; bypass hoses; refill hoses; that is a service that gets neglected on a lot of vehicles with higher mileage and in many cases can leave you stranded on the road should any of them decide to let go. Land Rover recommends on their schedule maintenance sheet every 90,000 miles. No you see you have somewhat an array of hoses. Even if you replace one, you have to drain the system, this is a good time to do them all. At 90,000 miles you plan on keeping the car for a while, you really don't want to just leave a couple of worn hoses on there that could leave you stranded further down the line. You have the vent hoses, the fill hoses, heater hoses, bypass hoses, the hoses that fill the throttle body heater. Basically every thing that you need including the thermostat. which this is actually a weak point in the system. These go. You want to replace these on a regular basis. These are, in the industry, referred to as the artificial heart as you can see by design. What we're going to do is show you the location of these hoses and how you would replace them, along with the thermostats and how to bleed the system when you're done. So now we're going to be replacing our hoses and thermostat. Now on this particular vehicle, on the P38, your thermostat is external and attached to the radiator support on the passenger side of the vehicle. Some people in the industry refer to it as the Jarvik heart, or the artificial heart, because it's sort of what it looks like. But it is an external thermostat and is mounted to 3 different hoses and your lower radiator hose. Now there's 2 different ways to drain this system, which you're going to need to do. One, you've all ready taken the cap off at the reservoir up top, and that's going to allow the system to drain completely. And there is both a drain plug in the dead center of the radiator on the bottom. And you also have a petcock further up. I usually recommend changing or removing this for the reason it does a complete drain and it is much easier to get at. To remove it you're going to need a 12 allen socket. We're going to take a pail. The system is going to hold about 3 and a half gallons of coolant. So you're going to need at least a 5 gallon pail to put under there. You like to leave yourself a little extra. We have a 12 millimeter allen drive socket and half inch drive which is going to give you some more leverage. And you're ratchet. Now, when you first break this loose you're going to get some outward spray. So be careful. We're going to step back out of the way. As you can see it drains pretty fast. So our system is drained out and you can bet that radiator is completely empty now which is why I like that bottom plug. Now before we take any of these clamps off, the majority of the clamps are a squeeze type clamp which there are several tools you can use to remove them. This bottom type is a worm type, probably has been replaced before. We're going to give that a little shot of penetrating oil and let that sit for a minute before we take that off. Now the thermostat is essentially just held on by the hoses. And then lays on 2 rests that are built into the lower shroud on this. This is usually a good place to start, by removing your clamps, top and bottom, to remove your thermostat. And then from there we'll drop the vehicle and we'll show you the hose location up top. Replacement of the thermostat and that one lower hose is going to cover you as far as lower hose and access from underneath. Now up top, relatively simple, you just have your upper radiator hose which is just a 2 point connection at either end. We'll take that off, which is just loosen the clamp, break it loose, remove the hose, install your new one. Your heater hoses - you have one here that runs from your feed on your heater core. Again just a squeeze clamp, slide it off. You may find these are going to be on somewhat tight. You can always take a razor blade or sharp instrument and actually slice it because you're not going to use it anyway. Slice the hose, break it loose that way. And then the other end attaches to the front of your lower intake manifold. This hose, which is essentially your feed and your heater hose, runs off the lower reservoir, out of the heater core to this T. And then from here down into the thermostat. Now there's some of these vehicles that you may find that when you take your hoses off, it's a good idea to check this metal down tube right here. This sometimes can fill with rust, over a period of time, because they do deteriorate internally and cause a restriction here, which can actually create a back-up of fluid into the reservoir. So if it seems like you're getting excessive pressure in the reservoir tank, or fluid is filling up very high, it may be in that hose. So it's a good idea. You have all the hoses off. The system is drained. It would be a good idea. You have 1 bolt right here. And another up front. You can remove this and check the hoses and see if it is restrictive. Again this is all a matter of remove the clamps, take the old hose off, install the new one. It's probably a good idea, if you're not really familiar with the system, and I do this with vehicles when I'm taking them apart for the first time, with the access of smart cameras, take a picture before you take it apart, and then when you go to put it back together, you're not quite sure how something is laid out, you can always refer back to your pictures. So that's basically it. When you're done you're going to simply fill the system. There is no bleeder on this system at all. Eventually what it's going to do - this is your bleed, this vent line - and this feeds all the way back to the top. And it's a good idea on these 4.0 4.6, fill it up, let it get nice and warm. Shut it down, let it get completely cold, and you're going to find your level is going to drop considerably. At that point you top it off again. A good way to make sure your heater core is not air bound is after the second fill up, bring your vehicle up to temperature, turn your heat on. Make sure you're getting good heat out of the vents. If you're getting good heat you are good to go, the system is bled. So that's all there is to it. When you're ready to change over the hoses and thermostat on your P38 you can give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 2005-2009 LR3 V8 4.4L. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # COOLKIT100 , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. This service is also valid on the Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009.
Kit #:COOLKIT100 Overview of Replacing Coolant Hoses on LR3 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Or Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British, and what I'd like to do is introduce our coolant hose kit for the LR3. This is the 4.4 V8. This is all part of our repair and maintenance academy. Here at Atlantic British we recommend that you change the hoses over on your Land Rover every 105,000 miles. Reason being is they are all rubber based and over a period of time not only do they dry up externally, but internally due to the flow of coolant can actually wear them out and take material away. So over 105,000 miles they can wear down to a point where they become very soft, they can fatigue and they can even burst. So to prevent a breakdown on the road we usually recommend, we definitely recommend you change these every 105,000 miles. Now with the kit. And if you go online you can actually access, download and print the same copy, and this is all of our maintenance recommendations. And you will find the coolant hose and thermostat kit, which includes 6 hoses, the thermostat and the O ring, and it's under the title or the part number COOLKIT100. You can find this right in our website. And essentially what you are going to get is your upper and lower radiator hose. Upper vent hose. Heater hoses. And cross tubes. You'll also get the thermostat. Which essentially has to be assembled in the housing, which we'll show you how to do that. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you the location of all these hoses. How they attach to the engine. And how to assemble the thermostat in the housing.Once the thermostat opens, you shut it down, let the vehicle cool down. You're going to see that level all of a sudden just disappear. You're going to top that back off. And you're probably going to want to do that 1 more time. You're going to let this thing fully warm up. Shut it down. Let it cool down. And then recheck the level 1 more time. It's a complicated system obviously so there are a lot of areas where air can hide. You want to make sure you have all the air bled out of the system before you take it out on any long trips. So again, when you're ready to change the hoses and the coolant over on your LR3, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit power steering hoses for a 1997 Defender 90. Using our Power Steering Hose Kit # 9397DF97 , which includes all 3 of the hoses needed: Power Steering Hose Reservoir To Pump, Power Steering Hose Box To Reservoir, and Power Steering Hose - Pump To Box.
Replacing Power Steering Lines On Defender 90 '97 with 4.0L GEMS EngineHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on replacing the power steering lines. And this is a 1997 Defender 90 with a GEMS engine. You'll see we have some partial disassembly here because we're in the middle of doing an update and clean up on this vehicle. So in the process we are going to be changing the lines, and we're going to show you a few things. And what you'll be getting in the kit is the 3 lines. 1 running from the pump to the reservoir. The reservoir to the box. And then box back up to the pump. So you'll have 2 long lines. 1 transferring from the box down under along the radiator support back up inside. This will run to your reservoir here. Essentially your return line, which is why they don't put on there, it's much lower pressure. And these are basically a feedback from the reservoir out to the pump. These sort of run next to each other underneath the support. And then you have your shorter hose which will run from the box down below - and you'll see the old hose comes up, curls and then tucks in to the back of the pump.You're going to top it off, start it again. At that point you should have a steady steering wheel, and just go lock to lock 2 or 3 times. Shut it down again. Let the system settle. What will happen is all the air in the system will rise and bleed out through the top. Then set your level correctly off the dip stick off your cap and then you're good to go. You've replaced all your lines and you don't have to worry about it for quite some time. So again, I'm Doug from the tech support, and when you're ready to change over the power steering lines on your Defender, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, install the cylinder head used on a 5.0 Liter 2012 Land Rover LR4. Gareth also covers the 4 stages of torque specs for installation. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today we're going to be doing a reinstall of a cylinder head on a five liter LR4 vehicle. The vehicle's age is a 2012. This is the cylinder head we took and removed off of the engine due to severe mechanical damage due to the timing jumping. It bent all the valves in this cylinder head. It's been to the machine shop now returned to us and my job is to reinstall it back on the engine and ensure we get the timing correct and up and running again. We're just showing you the head on the bench right now. The exhaust manifold has been refitted. I'm gonna be reinstalling it. You'll see it probably next when it's actually installed on the engine as it's quite a heavy unit. Sometimes it can take two people to actually put the head back on the car with the exhaust manifold on because it's kind of hefty as it were. As you see the cams are removed at this time. That is because the cylinder head bolts go through the cam carriers and the bearings go on top once the cams re-installed. Of course we can't put the head on and turn it down with the cams in it. We'll do all of that and I'll go through the process of tightening sequence and the two different types of cylinder head bolts that you may possibly have on your engine. Okay so we have the cylinder head mounted to the engine at this point. It's mounted with the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head otherwise you'll never get to get the manifold mounted with the head already mounted on it. There's ten cylinder head bolts. It's an M10 cylinder head bolt. It's a stretch bolt. There is two different types of cylinder head bolts - there's an M11. There is difference in length of about two or three millimeters and different in shape also. I've actually already tightened three, well, just run three bolts down. I'm gonna run the rest down until they're all mated to the cylinder head surface and then we're going to start with the cylinder head tightening sequence. As you can see I've printed out the sheet here. Starting in the middle of the cylinder head one, two, three, four, working around the clock. The first stage of tightening is at 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meter. Third-stage 90 degrees, the last stage, stage four 120 degrees. Right so now I'm gonna start off the first round of torque tightening. The torque wrench is set, I believe it was 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters. I'm going to start at the middle - number one and then literally two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten and we'll let it settle for a minute and then start the second round at 35 Newton meters and then we'll start the torque angle procedure. So I'm at the stage where we're gonna torque to 90 degrees. My degree wheel on the tool locked in place, started, zero it out every time. I'm going to turn to 90 degrees. It's pretty straightforward job. Run it down to the first 90. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then I'm gonna run it down to the second, final stage of stretch which is 120 degrees and we'll take off again when we get to the 120. Start with the 90 right now. Now we have 90 degrees. Take the tool out, start on the next bolt and keep going round in the clockwise manner that it requests in the workshop manual. Okay, so the first stage of the stretch bolts was 90. I've covered all ten. I'm gonna start the last and second stage of 120 degrees and video a couple. I'll go through the rest and we'll start off again when we're about to mount the camshafts. There's the first one at 120 I'm gonna take it out and move it to the next stop, step. So all 10 cylinder head bolts have been tightened down to torque spec. We have the tool for the cylinder head bolts. It's kind of got a long shank on it. It is not quite a Torx bit. It's a special order. We carry them in stock here. It comes with the nylon sheath to stop any damage to the cylinder head especially when you're cranking on it. Literally sits like that. Okay so now the cylinder head bolts are tightened. We can install the camshafts. They're quite definable from side to side intake and exhaust and exhaust here intake here. As you can see it's got the extra hurt lobes on it for the variable, the high lift on the intakes. I'm just going to mount them in loosely for now. Get the cam caps and tighten them down. Of course you can't talk the head until the cams are out as you can see them install through underneath the carriers for the bearings of the camshafts. So I'll install these loosely, put the caps on and we'll torque them down to spec. So I'm gonna run the bolts all the way down till they seat. Just initial contact and then I'm gonna start to tighten them down evenly right the way across the camshaft so we don't have any issues of a tight cam or anything and take a quick break. I've got to get the specs for torquing of these screws and we'll be back. Okay so both the cams are installed. They are pinched, not torque tightened yet. They're just pinched down into place. I loaded the cams in the head so that they were as close as they could be to being timed up. After I torque them I'm gonna turn the cams manually, put the cam locks in and then I'm gonna start on the install of all the timing chains, tensioners and guides. We've been through that before but we can go over it again. The main thing was to show install of the cylinder head, torquing the head bolts, torquing in the new cam well, the reinstalling of the cams and the cam caps. I'll go ahead and run up to the office area and pick up the torque specs for these and then we'll be back and do a quick torque sequence of the camshafts. Okay so the torque spec settings for these bearing cap screws are 11 Newton meters which is 8 pounds feet, and about 97 pounds inches. The sequence one, two, three, four, five. Same on the exhaust caps, same torque specs. So I'm gonna torque those down and then turn the cam so I can put the cam timing lock tools into position and then start building up the timing gears, put the variators on, put the chains on and time up the engine. [inaudible] The back ones are a little bit awkward to see and get to. The front ones are easier to see and get to. 11. 11. A fraction over 12. A little bit more difficult to see these back ones. 11. All set. So camshafts are all torque tightened to spec. Next thing I'm going to do is turn them, put the cam locks in, and again, like I say, start on timing up the cams. That's pretty good. This is gonna be the awkward one to get to. A little bit horizontal. Okay so we just wanted to give you an idea of torquing with cylinder heads, with the engine installed. That cylinder head I mounted a little bit prior of course. You didn't actually see that. It's a little awkward, especially with the extra weight of the exhaust manifold on it but it can be done. The torque specs again 20 Newton meters, 35 Newton meters, 90 degrees, 120 degrees. Pretty straightforward. The cams are in and mounted, torqued to 11 Newton meters starting with the front bearing caps working your way back. I've actually already put in the cam lock so the cams are timed, ready for the timing chains and variators to be installed. That's about all we have - mounting and installing the cylinder head. Pretty straightforward.
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