oil change videos
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, discuss the recommended oil change frequency on late model Land Rovers or Range Rovers. Land Rover’s recommended interval of 12K-15K oil changes on late model Rovers with synthetic engine oil is an often-discussed topic in the forum community. Many are saying, and We agree, that the frequency of changes should be half that (every 7,500 miles) or you risk causing long-term wear and damage to the engine.
Hi I'm Gareth, the tech support rep here at Atlantic British. Today in this video we're going to discuss oil change frequencies for Land Rover Range Rover models from 2003 to present day, whether it be Range Rover Sport, LR3 or LR4. A lot of people have been reading online about Land Rovers and talking about Rover oil change frequencies. People are saying that it's a long time between 12,000 and 16,000 miles to get there oil changes done. We agree with that. It's an awful long time to wait for an oil change. The extended oil change service frequencies on Range Rovers and Land Rovers these days are a little bit too extended. We feel they can unfortunately cause, you know, detrimental wear to engine components for things like timing chains, timing chain guides, etc, which can also lead to more severe failures possibly because of those extended service life. We feel like good oil change every sort of 7,500 miles is probably the best course of action and keep the engine and other components running to the best service capabilities. So when you're ready to do your oil change we have a number of kits for all the model Range Rovers which include enough oil to do the oil change, the relevant oil filter, O ring if needed, a new drain plug, and of course an oil change service reminder that sticks to the windshield. This kit is for the 5.0 v8 engine which is in the LR4 Full-Size Range Rover and Range Rover Sport. And when you're ready to order it please visit us online at Roverparts.com or there's a link you can go to on the screen. Or you can always call one of our friendly sales reps and talk to them about what model vehicle you have and what oil service kit you're going to need. The phone number is 800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using
oil change kit # LR007160SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK100, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Kit #: LR007160SKA Performing Oil Change Service on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to do is touch base on the oil filter kit that we have available on the LR3s. This kits available through out repair and maintenance academy which you can go online, go to our website. You can print and download the whole schedule that we have available. You'll see first on the list for the oil change is LR007160SKA. This service is recommended every 7,500 miles, and it is probably the most common service that you're going to do on your vehicle. And you're going to do it on a pretty regular basis. So what we do is include 2 filters so that when you're ready for the next oil change your not constantly, you save yourself some money on the shipping. You'll have the part all ready there for when you're ready for your next oil change. And believe me, they sneak up on you fast. So what you're going to get is 2 oil filters that meet Land Rover specifications for the LR3. This is for the 4.0 V8. And then you'll also receive 2 new drain plugs which have the gasket, the O ring built into them. So you'll end up with a good seal on the pan. It's always good to replace the plugs. And then what we're going to do now is get this up in the air and we're going to show you the location of your filter, how to access it and location of your drain plug. Top it off. Get your level set and you're done. So when you're ready to do your oil change, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll set you up with our kit. And you can reach us at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using
oil change kit # ERR3340SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. Kit #: ERR3340SKA Oil Change on Discovery Series II 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on the oil change kit that we've put together for your maintenance and service program. Now this particular kit will work on the Defender 90, the Classics and the D 1s. And what we'll do is include enough for 2 oil changes. You do oil changes on a pretty regular basis, on a pretty regular mileage, usually much closer together than any other service on the vehicle. So it's good to have 2. Buy 2 at a time, you'll save yourself some money and some time. You will get 2 filters, 2 new drain plugs and 2 new drain plug gaskets. And I find, especially with the gaskets, it's very important. You really don't need this to be leaking after you just put 8 quarts of fresh fluid in your vehicle. That's our oil change kit. And what we're going to do is show you some basics as far as location of you oil filter and how to do a basic oil change. One of the most common services you're going to do to your vehicle is going to be the oil change. Now thankfully for because of the height of most Land Rover's from the ground you can easily get underneath. With a creeper you should be able to access this in your driveway, your garage. Those of you lucky enough with a lift, as we have, it does make it a lot easier. Very simple procedure. You want to take a bucket that will hold at least 6 quarts of oil, preferably 9. You want to leave yourself some space so when you're carrying it across the garage you're not spilling it all over the floor. The drain plug, in case of the D90. is actually a large inch and three sixteenth plug, on the drivers side of the vehicle, down at the bottom of the pan. We remove this plug. This has a copper sealing gasket on the back of the plug, you'll be receiving a new one with your kit. Always good to use a new gasket. You want this to seal up properly when you're done. Your oil filter is a screw on oil filter, front of the engine on the passenger side. You would use a strap wrench to remove this, When you go to install the new filter, I generally recommend take a quart of oil, fill the new filter up until the point where it's even with the gasket. Let it sit for a minute. You will see the oil absorb into the paper in the filter itself. This way it reduces the amount of time that your engine will run dry on your startup after you filled it with oil. That's pretty much an oil change. Simply a drain, refill and change the filter. We have recommendations that will show you the capacity, how much oil you should be using, What weight oil you should be using, and in the case of the D 90s, actually the climate that you live in will determine what oil you should be using. So again you can refer back to the new maintenance schedules and they will give you all this information. And that's pretty much it for oil changes.
Atlantic British Ltd. Repair & Maintenance Academy How-To Video:Watch our Land Rover Technician, Doug, explain the procedure for an oil change on a Defender 90, Discovery I and Range Rover Classic. Our
oil change kit # ERR3340SKB includes two new oil filters, two new drain plugs and two new washers--enough for two oil change services, which should be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat. Kit #: ERR3340SKA Oil Change on Defender 90, 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on the oil change kit that we've put together for your maintenance and service program. Now this particular kit will work on the Defender 90, the Classics and the D 1s. And what we'll do is include enough for 2 oil changes. You do oil changes on a pretty regular basis, on a pretty regular mileage, usually much closer together than any other service on the vehicle. So it's good to have 2. Buy 2 at a time, you'll save yourself some money and some time. You will get 2 filters, 2 new drain plugs and 2 new drain plug gaskets. And I find, especially with the gaskets, it's very important. You really don't need this to be leaking after you just put 8 quarts of fresh fluid in your vehicle. That's our oil change kit. And what we're going to do is show you some basics as far as location of you oil filter and how to do a basic oil change. One of the most common services you're going to do to your vehicle is going to be the oil change. Now thankfully for because of the height of most Land Rover's from the ground you can easily get underneath. With a creeper you should be able to access this in your driveway, your garage. Those of you lucky enough with a lift, as we have, it does make it a lot easier. Very simple procedure. You want to take a bucket that will hold at least 6 quarts of oil, preferably 9. You want to leave yourself some space so when you're carrying it across the garage you're not spilling it all over the floor. The drain plug, in case of the D90. is actually a large inch and three sixteenth plug, on the drivers side of the vehicle, down at the bottom of the pan. We remove this plug. This has a copper sealing gasket on the back of the plug, you'll be receiving a new one with your kit. Always good to use a new gasket. You want this to seal up properly when you're done. Your oil filter is a screw on oil filter, front of the engine on the passenger side. You would use a strap wrench to remove this, When you go to install the new filter, I generally recommend take a quart of oil, fill the new filter up until the point where it's even with the gasket. Let it sit for a minute. You will see the oil absorb into the paper in the filter itself. This way it reduces the amount of time that your engine will run dry on your startup after you filled it with oil. That's pretty much an oil change. Simply a drain, refill and change the filter. We have recommendations that will show you the capacity, how much oil you should be using, What weight oil you should be using, and in the case of the D 90s, actually the climate that you live in will determine what oil you should be using. So again you can refer back to the new maintenance schedules and they will give you all this information. And that's pretty much it for oil changes.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a LR2 2008-On. Using our
Oil Change Kit # LR001419SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210. Part#:LR001419SKA Oil Filter Replacement On LR2 / Freelander 2, 2008-On, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about oil changes in your LR2. This is for the 3.2 inline 6 cylinder that they used in the earlier years, before they added the 2 liter turbo 4 cylinder. So this kit in particular will be for the 3.2. This is a cartridge style filter. And this is all part of our maintenance and repair program that we have on our website. Which you can access and actually download the sheet. And it not only gives you oil change but all the other recommended maintenances you should be doing on that vehicle. And approximately the intervals you should be doing them at. So let's start with the most basic and the most prominent service you're ever going to do on any vehicle is going to be oil change. Oil change is very important. You're going to do it on a regular basis. Because of that what we've done is put a kit together that will give you 2 of each of what you'll need to do an oil change on your vehicle. This way when the next one sneaks up on you, you all ready have the filter and the plug that you need. Now what we're going to do now is going to show you the basics on how to change your oil on your LR2. All right, so the first thing we're going to do before we go to drain the oil is we want to remove or loosen that cap that's around that filter so that it will allow the oil that sits in that cartridge to drain. So what we need to do, is pull straight up on the power steering reservoir. It just slides into that bracket. And we're just going to move that out of the way there. Now, way down below is the cartridge and oil filter. And we're going to get on the cap of that with a 36 millimeter socket and a half inch drive ratchet and extension. It just unscrews off. All right, so what we're going to do is essential you can leave the filter in place, we're going to leave the cap there. We just wanted that loosened up so we could relieve the vacuum that might develop in there so we know that that's going to drain when we set this back down to change the filter.You want to make sure you put that power steering reservoir back in its place. Just going to lift up and slide it back into the bracket. Push down. We've got our oil filter on nice and tight. So at this point now you've got everything together. Remove our cap. A funnel also will help. You can pour it directly from the bottle. And we're going to put 8 quarts of oil in that. And that should set you right up. Set your level perfect. What I would suggest is any time you do an oil change, start the vehicle, let it run 5 minutes or so. Shut it down. Let it sit for a little bit. Double check for leaks. Check your level on your dipstick. And once your set and you're happy with what you've got. You make sure, obviously before you start it you're going to put your cap back on. You can now put the cover on. Usually wait to do the cover last. If you put it on ahead and you spill some oil now it's all over your cover. So it makes for a neater job. So when you're ready to do an oil change on your LR2, just give a call 1-800-533-2210. Can ask any of our knowledgeable salesman. Or if you'd like to purchase online you can click on this link and that will put you on our website where you can order the part. And if you like our video,s, then what we suggest is you can subscribe to our YouTube channel. And you can watch any of the videos that we all ready have out there. We've got quite a few so watch and enjoy. Anyway, thanks for watching and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using our
oil change kit # LPW100230SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers. It is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat. Kit #: LPW100230SKA Performing Oil Change Service On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to cover one of the maintenance kits that we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander. Which is going to be your oil change kit. Now this is part of our maintenance and repair academy, which we have listed on our website. And you can actually go to our website, download and print this sheet which gives you all of the different maintenance kits we have available for that vehicle. In this video we're going to talk about our oil change kit. This would be kit number LPW100230SKA. Now because this is the one maintenance you're going to do more often than any of the rest, and it is a very important maintenance to do, when you order the kit you're going to get enough for 2 oil changes. It's nice to be able to do the 1 oil change you're ready to do now. When you're ready to do another one just down the road, you already have all your parts and your kits. You save a little bit on the shipping. And it's nice to have everything there for you when you're ready to do it. Because, oil changes can sneak up on you. So, what you essentially get is 2 filters. 2 new drain plugs. And 2 new drain plug gaskets. Relatively easy maintenance to do. A lot of people do them as a, in the driveway, in the garage. Very easy. Very inexpensive. And a huge, huge, huge maintenance item on your vehicle. So, we have a 2002 to 2005 Freelander up in the air. We're going to show you the basics as far as access to the filter and the plug and how to drain your own oil. Okay, so, we have the vehicle up in the air. We're ready to drop this panel. You'll notice that there is a full shield or panel that covers the underside of the vehicle on this. And your choices to access the drain and the fuel filter are either to remove this entire panel, which can get a little bit involved and of course after a while the hardware underneath gets a little bit on the rusty side. Doesn't come out very easy. Or, there are 2 rivets right here that hold the panel to a bracket. And a lot of technicians, especially technicians those that do the oil changes on a regular basis on these Freelanders, will drill these rivets out and just strictly remove them. Once you've taken those out you still have this bolt and bracket holding this in place so it's not going to fall out on you. Then, you just drop this 1 bolt. And the panel just swings down and now gives you access to the oil filter and to the drain plug. But the oil filter, you can get any one of the 3 finger contracting tools, or you can get a cup tool that fits because this is a slotted filter on the end, so they make the little sockets that will fit over the top of those. Your drain plug, which you'll be getting a new drain plug and new gasket. Once you've removed the plug and drain your oil, before you reinstall, make sure you wipe it off and get a nice clean surface on that. Same thing with the oil filter. Always check to make sure that the O Ring on the oil filter didn't stay attached to the bottom side of the flange so that when you go to put the new filter on, you're going to end up with a leak. Always make sure that the old gasket came out with the filter. So it's just simply a screw off screw back in on the filter. Drain your oil. Reinstall your bolt. Now you want to check in your owners manual to see what viscosity oil works best in the region that you live in because there are some minor differences. So always refer to your owners manual, that will also give you the capacity, or how much oil you should use to refill this engine. And that's basically it. That's just an easy maintenance to do. That's very inexpensive. Something you can do in a matter of an hour. And does a world of good to your vehicle. So, when you're ready to do the oil change on your Freelander, this is for 2002 to 2005 with the 3 liter V6. Call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Using
oil change kit # LR007160SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK100 , which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210. Kit #: LR007160SKAPerforming Oil Change Service On Range Rover Full Size Supercharged 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And what I want to touch base on is another one of our kits that we have available, and this one is for the 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover with the Jaguar engine. And it will apply to both the 4.2 or the 4.4. And this is the oil change kit that we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy, which you can find on our website. As well as a sheet that will be printable. You can download and print the sheet and it actually not only gives the oil change kit, but it will list all the other kits for the regular maintenance on your vehicle. You'll see the oil change kit right here - LR007160SKA. And what you'll get with that kit is 2 oil filters, 2 drain plugs. The reason being for 2, oil change is probably going to be the most frequent maintenance you do on your vehicle. And it's probably one of the most important as far as getting longevity and fuel economy out of your engine. And so what I am going to do is we have a 2006 Supercharged Range Rover and I'll just give you some of the basics. We'll show you how to perform the oil change on your vehicle.Now our oil level is little bit just below the minimum which is that hole right there. Up top will be maximum. This is not like the old dip sticks where you had add and full. Your ideal height is going to be right in between the 2 dots. And we're going to need about a quart to top this off. So this is actually going to take about 8 quarts to fill up. So we're going to add 1 more quart. That should top off our system. And we'll be all done. So, when you're ready to do the oil change on your Range Rover 2006 to 2009. The procedure will be the same for both the 4.2 and the 4.4 give any of our knowledgeable salesmen a call at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using our
oil change kit # LPW500030SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. You may also find that you need to replace the mounts on the oil filter housing with part # LYD000010OEM. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK200, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat. Part # LPW500030SKA Oil Filter Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on the oil filter change kit that we have for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also referred to as L322. Now the oil change is probably one of the most repetitive maintenance you're going to do on your vehicle. Now on the particular design it's recommended every 7,500 miles. So you're going to do it on a fairly regular basis. And it's a pain in the neck to try and order a new kit every time you're going to do an oil change. So what we do is we put the kit together so you have the proper items to do 2 oil changes. Reason being it's nice to have one up on the shelf when you're ready, because sometimes they will sneak up on you and all of a sudden you go, oh, I'm do for one and you don't want to have to wait and order one, for the time frame it takes to get it shipped to you. You already have it there, get it done. Maintain your vehicle. So what you're essentially going to get is 2 cartridge type oil filters which is what this vehicle uses. New O Rings for the cap. And de=finitely whenever you do an oil change in these always replace the O Rings. They have a tendency that if you do use the old ones they will leak. New drain plugs for the pan. And new drain plug seals. And again, this is all you really need other than the oil for 2 full oil changes. And what I'm going to do is, give me a minute, we're going to go over to this vehicle and I'm going to show you basically some of the tips that you'll need to know to change your filter.And these engines will last you quite a while. So, this is a regular maintenance you want to do on your vehicle. It's an easy one to do. It's very important to do. It makes a huge different as far as how long your engine lasts. And also with fresh oil in it you may also notice that your fuel economy is a little bit better as well. So when you're ready to do an oil change on your 2003 to 2005 L322, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the
iLAND Diagnostic App to perform a Service Interval Reset, a function that must be done on all 2006 and up Range Rovers and Land Rovers after an oil change service. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or visit here. How To Use The iLAND App Service Interval Reset Demonstrated on 2016 Land Rover LR4. Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going cover some of the special functions that are available on the iLAND. We're going to do this as a series to help you understand how your iLAND works. In this particular case a lot of your later Land Rovers, and I'm going to say from 2006 and up, the majority of them require a tool to be able to access and reset your service interval, after you've done an oil change on that so that your reminder on the dash comes on at the proper time. So I want to show you how to get into that. Right now we're in a 2016 LR4. The function is going to be very similar throughout the entire line, the LR3, LR4, the Sports, the Full Size. Some of the other models like the LR2 whatnot will be a little different. Some of those have their own function built into the dash. But for most of them you're going to need a tool and the iLAND will do just that. So we've got our phone on. Now remember now this is on an iphone. If you have an Android you're going to have just the single iLAND icon. But if you have an iphone, you're going to end up getting 2. This one with the blue dot you are not going to use. You stay with the original icon for just iLAND. No blue dot. So essentially we're going to hit that. We've plugged in our dongle underneath. We see the blue light. We now we're powered up. We're going to turn the ignition on so that the iLAND or the dongle can communicate with the modules. So we're in an LR4. We'll hit that. And of course you have your garage disclaimers. We'll just hit accept and go through on that. So essentially now we've gone on. Now if I back this up, because this is not the screen you're going to end up on. You're going to end up on this screen. And what you go do, you can do a full system test. Just a quick test. And what that will do is run through all the modules that are communicable through the network. And the ones that come up in red are going to have faults. You want to investigate those while you're in there, to take a quick look at it. But for this purpose and for this video we'll go to Power Train Control Module. It's going to hook up and connect. You're going to see your different functions that are available. We'll hit special functions. Now at the top you're going to see service interval reset. For the gas engine and basically US and north american spec vehicles that's what we're going to use. Oil counter reset is strictly for the diesels. And that's going to essentially be overseas, european. So we're going to hit service interval reset. We know you have the ignition on. Make sure all our dash lights are on. Resetting service intervals, press ok to continue. And it's going to communicate with the module. And it's going to reset that back for the specified mileage. So there it is. It's reset. It's complete. Ignition state. We're going to turn it off. It's asking us to turn it off. Now it's asking us to turn it on, and that's basically setting it up and syncing it basically into the power train control module. Turned it on. Now it's going to say clear fault memory. Actually because we have a fault on there we don't want to clear it. We want to go back and be able to look at it. So we're going to hit no at this point. If you had no fault codes then you can hit yes and it will just continue and go about. So again it's asking trouble codes clear reset aborted. That's ok. Set ignition switch to off. And then we're back to our special functions. And then we can have that arrow in the top left. We hit that. And that will put us back on to our choices. This is just taking a little bit longer. There we go. Then we go back to LR4. Hit accept. Make sure ignition is on. So now if you want to go back through it and actually what it did is actually it did clear the code so it had to do with something with the reset. So as I said you can go through your others. And that will be shown in other videos as we go along. So for now we've basically shown had to set up and reset your service interval. And what that is is just simply a reminder it will let you know when your next oil change is due. And sometimes we lose track of that. And it's always good to get a reminder. So when you're ready to order a tool that will help you do the service interval reset and more, you can just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order the tool online. And if you like our how to videos you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and get more information. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Sport, 2014. Using
oil filter kit # LR011279SKA, which includes 2 new oil filters and O-rings, and 2 new drain plugs, it is recommended that an oil change be performed every 15,000 miles. This service applies to 2010-On Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Sport Supercharged. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK150, which includes oil, oil filter, and o-ring, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Be sure to use the correct oil to refill your vehicle. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210. Kit #: LR011279SKA Oil Filter Service On 2014 Range Rover Sport 5.0L V8, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to introduce you to one of our maintenance and repair kits for the 2010 to 2014 Sport. And even though the 2014 is a completely revamped vehicle, it still uses the same 5 liter engine, with some slight modifications but in this regard it's the same from 2010 right up to 2014. So what essentially we have is for the oil change on your vehicle, it's the most, it's probably the one maintenance that you are going to do more often that any and it can be easily done in a driveway. And we're going to show you when we're done how to do that. But in the meantime, the kit itself is available through our website. The part number is LR011279SKA. And what you get is 2 oil filters. 2 drain fill plugs. And 2 new O rings for the cap over the filter. Now, you'll notice it's a cartridge style filter. You're probably going to need to get yourself a different oil wrench than what you had on previous vehicles to take the cap off. But we give you enough for 2 oil changes, mostly because it is a maintenance that you are going to do often. And it's good to have them around when you're ready for the next time around. And you'll save yourself a little bit on shipping too by having 2 instead of 1. Now this is a maintenance that the factory recommends every 15,000 miles because you're using a fully synthetic. Depending on the use of the vehicle, if you tow, live in hilly areas, excessively hot areas, you do want to do the oil changes more often. The oil does break down. So, again, you get 2 filters, plugs, O rings. Enough for 2 oil changes. As I said you're going to do this maintenance on a pretty regular basis. And now we'll put the vehicle in the air and show you how to change the oil.So, now we're going to top it off with oil. This particular engine you want to use either a 5W20 or actually there is a 0W20 which is specifically formulated for Jaguar and Land Rover by Castrol. Generally found dealer only. But you definitely want to use the oil that is specified for this particular engine. These newer engines are very tight tolerance. New materials. You want to make sure you use the right oil when you top it off. The whole idea of why we're doing this is for the longevity of the engines and to maintain performance. Definitely want to use the right oil. So, you don't need to watch me fill it with oil. So I'm going to tell you call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using
money-saving kit # ABP221SKA, with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat. Kit #: ABP221SKA Replacing Brake Hose & Brake Fluid On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on one of the kits that we offer for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also referred to as the L322. This is part of our maintenance and repair academy program. Now this is a maintenance kit that is usually recommended once every 105,000 miles. Remember too, your original brake hoses are a rubber based component. They can dry up. They break down. They're worn both inside and outside. So, this is something you want to consider. You definitely don't need a brake hose to fail while you're on the road. So, what we offer is actually something better than the original design. Instead of a rubber based hose we have braided steel with a hard rubber casing. Comes with the hardware needed to attach to the original hold downs and hardware. Your front hoses and rear your hoses with mounting brackets and additional hardware which you'll need to install. And enough brake fluid to flush the system out instead of just topping it off. While you have the hoses out this is a good opportunity to do another basic maintenance at the same time which is a brake fluid flush. Makes a huge difference because brake fluid is designed to hold and maintain any water or dirt contaminants that get into the system. So you want to flush that out just like you would an oil change, transmission service, anything else. Fluid needs to be changed. It's not a forever fluid. So we offer the Castrol which is a very high grade, very good fluid. So this is the kit and you'll find it listed on a downloadable and printable sheet that we have on our website that shows the brake hose and fluid kit. Part number is ABP221SKA. And you'll see again recommended mileage is every 105,000 miles. So, that's the kit. And now we're going to show you where all these hoses are located and just some basic instructions on how to change them over.These will last quite a while. So, when you're ready to change the brake hoses over on your L322, and 2do a brake flush, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Get a complete tour underneath an LR3 V8 4.4L. Watch Jim as he identifies the various components of the LR3, identifying the air suspension compressor, emergency brake actuator, oil filter and drain plug, front differential, transfer case and shift motor placement and some parts of the air suspension system. Please note that the LR3 undercarriage is identical to the Range Rover Sport.
LR3 Under-Car Tour (also applies to Range Rover Sport)Hi it's Jim here at Atlantic British. I do the technical support here. Today we're going to do like a walk around tour underneath an LR3. LR3 and Range Rover Sport are exactly the same underneath. We're going to be showing you the air suspension compressor, the emergency brake actuator and some parts of the axle air suspension system. Let's take a short walk over to the car. First thing I want to start with is probably the hardest to see. It's just above the rear axle under the car. It's the emergency brake actuator. If you can look up past the axle. I got it lit up there. You can see my finger probably. That's where it is. Exactly in the middle of nowhere. From that actuator there's cables that wind around and come out into each rear brake. You'll find the emergency brake shoes are inside the rear brake calipers. It's electrically operated. Fairly reliable. Next thing under here I want to take a look at is parts of the air suspension. One thing you should know is the compressor is underneath this little plastic cover, right here by the frame. Make sure if you're jacking this truck up you're not jacking on this because you could wreck it and spend a lot of money. There's like 3 bolts that hold this cover on and some snaps. I already got the 3 bolts out. I'll just release the snaps. Here it comes. Okay once you get that out of the way, here's your compressor. It's not a bad job to replace. There has been some problems with that. Next thing we want to look at under here is up from the compressor is the reservoir for the air. Not too many problems with that. Next thing back towards the back I'll show you where the actual height sensors are. Height sensors are back here. You can see there's a little arm on them. One on each side. Next thing I want to show you is if you're going to do an oil change, kind of what you got to go through on this truck just to get at your oil filter and the drain plug. As you can see we've moved to the front of the car. As I mentioned before to do an oil change on this car you have to take this whole skid plate off. There's a little plate up front. And this plate. It's pretty straight forward. A bunch of bolts come out. It's heavy. You may need some help getting it out of here. I'll remove this and show you where the drain plug is. Also why we're up here, here's where the front height sensors are for the air suspension. And while we're up in there you can see there's brake lines and so that go to the front brake caliper. As you can see I've removed the skid plate. You can find your drain plug for your engine oil right there. And if you move towards the front the oil filter's right here. It's attached to an oil cooler. While we're up here in the front I can show you where the front differential is. It's right here with its drain. It's a good idea to change it once in a while. We can move farther back into the car, and if you're wondering where your transfer case is, it's just above my head. And there's a shift motor there that sometimes fails on these cars. Here at Atlantic British we stock everything for your LR3 or Sport, whether it is a simple oil filter that was up in the front. Or in the back for the emergency brake. We carry the actuator. We carry the emergency brake shoes. Just about anything you need. You know brake shoes. Brake pads. Anything you want you can get for your Rover here at Atlantic British. You can give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 or check us out on the web at RoverParts.com.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the
air filter on a Defender 90 1997. It is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Part #: RTC4683 Replacing Air Filter Element On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to be covering the air filter replacement for your D90 as part of our service and maintenance kits. Now, this particular kit that you would be ordering for your D90 is going to be filter element kit RTC4683. As you can see by the chart recommended every 30,000 miles. So with this kit you'll be receiving this air filter. We're going to show you how to install the air filter yourself. It's a relatively easy job, only takes a few minutes. We're going to show you how to install the air filter element into the 1997 D90. Now this is going to be the filter you receive and this is kit # RTC4683. Nothing more than a paper element, rubber seal on both sides. Again, this is recommended to be done every 30,000 miles. If you do more off-roading or dusty areas, you probably want to do it less, 15 - 20 thousand. Air filter is critical as far as engine reliability and fuel economy. So what we are going to do is set the box aside. I always recommend if you are working over the fenders, especially on a D90 with the aluminum fenders you want to drape a nice fender cover over the top. This is one of our Atlantic British foam fender covers. You're going to reach in, and you have three clips that hold this intake housing on. Now the one in the back is a little on the tight side. And you can usually clip it out. Once you get the top two out you can sometimes flip these out without having any problems. Inside, looks like we have an 11 millimeter nut. Now this is a nylon locking nut so that the filter doesn't slide out from there. The nut that retains that, you can use either a seven sixteenth or an eleven millimeter socket, depending on what you have in your tool box. We're going to run that nut off. It's going to be a little tight because it is designed to be that way, so it doesn't back off on its own. Once you feel the nut loosen up, reach in and put your hand in underneath it because you don't want it dropping out of the socket and falling down back in behind the engine. You could end up spending more time chasing a nut down than changing the filter. Set your tool down. As a recommendation, do not set any tools down on the top of the Defender fender. These aluminum fenders if you put a little bit of weight on them it will actually leave an impression in them. That's why the fender cover. That's why you never lay your tools on top of them. Reach in. Pop out the cover. Pull your heater hoses up out of the way. Don't worry about bending it a little bit you're not going to reuse it anyway. Now that's a reasonably dirty filter. Most cases you see one like this, you probably want to change it. You can see where you have enough build up on the paper where it's going to restrict air intake. Just take that - we'll discard that one. One hand back, hold your hoses. It doesn't matter which way you install it. The gasket's the same on both sides. Slide it in all the way until you feel it seat. Reinstall your cap and you should feel it - it will seat right up against that rubber gasket. Reinstall your nut. Now you don't need to make your nut super tight, you just want it good and snug. Too tight and you could end up doing some damage to the air filter. Just make sure that you're tight up against the filter so we have a good tight seal. Now the snorkel, or the intake, there's no indentations. There's no anything there that's going to make this a one shot installation. In other words it isn't indexed. We can just basically put it on, slide that in there, slip the top 2 on because they're the easiest to get at. Reach in underneath, pull the clip forward, and the snap back, and we have all 3 on there nice and tight. Now you have a good air filter on there. And as I said it is recommended every 30,000 miles you should change that filter. Again if you go off-road or you're in a dusty area, maybe once every 20,000. But it's a good idea to check it every other oil change. That's an air filter installation on a D90. This is with the 4 O engine. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential & transfer case oil service (using
complete kit # DTCM800A) on a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differentials and transfer case. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 60,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or use our live chat. Part #: DTCM800A Performing Differential & Transfer Case Service On Freelander 2002-2005, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, and I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on one of our maintenance kits that we have available for the 2002 to 2005 Freelander as part of our maintenance and repair academy. Now online, on our website, you can download and print this sheet which gives you all the other maintenance items that we have available for your vehicle. This case we're going to touch base on the one for the differential and transfer case service kit. Now this kit is part number DTCM800A. And what that's going to include is 2 bottles of ATF1, which is the recommended fluid for the transfer case on this vehicle, along with a new drain plug, fill plug and 2 new gaskets. Now the front transfer case also acts as the differentials so you're not going to have additional fluid or plug needed for the front diff. For the rear differential, we have fluid enough to change, to do a drain and fill, and a new fill and drain plug. So, this is what you're going to get so you can do this. This is a recommended maintenance on the vehicle. You really should do this approximately every 60,000 miles. Just like any petroleum based fluid it does break down after a while. It's designed to hold the moisture and any dirt or buildup or wear items from inside of either component. So that when you drain it out you get this stuff cleared out. You've got fresh fluid and it makes a huge difference in the longevity and the performance of your vehicle. So, what we're going to do is we have a Freelander here behind me. We're going to put it up in the air. We'll show you the location of the plugs and some basic tips on how to change your fluids.It's a good idea to do both. So that's pretty much it as far as just drain and refill the rear diff and the transfer case. So when you're ready to do so on your Freelander, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential & transfer case oil service ( using complete kit # DTCM200A ) on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005 (L322). In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differentials and transfer case. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 60,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Part # DTCM200A Performing Differential & Transfer Case Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we want to touch base on a maintenance kit that we have available through our maintenance and repair academy for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also referred to as L322. Now this kit will set you up so that you can do a fluid changeover in both front and rear differential and in the transfer case. Now you'll see here I have a sheet that's accessible, downloadable and printable off of our website and we're looking at our differential and transfer case service kit number DTCM200A. And what's included is is our transfer case kit which you'll see numbered here and our differential service kit you'll see numbered here. And what it will do is give you the proper fluids to be able to change over the fluid in both front and rear diff, and in the transfer case. With the proper fluid. New drain plugs. New fill plugs. And new gaskets. This is something that's recommended should be done really every 60,000 miles. Just like any petroleum based fluid, they do break down over a period of time. You will get condensation build up in the differentials and the transfer case. You definitely don't want water in either one of those. So it is an important service that should be done on a regular basis. So, this is the kit we have available for you. And in a minute we're going to raise this vehicle up and we're going to show you basically the locations of your drain and fill plugs so that you can do your service efficiently. Alright so we're going to start with the front differential. We got our L322 up in the air. And in the front diff on these. The front differential is actually attached to the side of the oil pan. You're going to see a large drain plug right here at the very bottom of the diff. To access it you will probably need to remove this splash pan, which is nothing more than 4 bolts. You'll need a 16 millimeter socket and ratchet, or if you're fortunate enough, impact gun. But these will run right out. Once you get this out of the way you're able to get a short extension on there. Now these plugs use a large allen head, which in this case is either you can use a 16 millimeter or, I'm sorry, A 9 16th or 14 millimeter will fit those. This is a socket that I got off my tool man. You can probably get one through any one of the automotive repair centers or one that carries a good line of tools. This one has a removable end so that you can replace it with other sizes. Which comes in very handy. But this is a tool you are going to need to remove those plugs. The fill plug has the same thing. It's 14 millimeter hex, and that sets way up here, which you can access through the side over the frame with a short extension and a ratchet. And you're just going to top that off right with the level of the bottom of the plug. Make sure when you go to reinstall your bottom plug when you fill it, is to wipe it off. You're going to have some build up on there. You want to take a clean rag. Wipe that area off. With the kit you are going to get new plugs anyway which is a good idea. Clean, wipe the threads off inside. Make sure that, in some cases the dirt can jam up in the threads. You think it's tight and it's not. You end up with a leak. So, make sure your threads are good and clean before you put it back together. So now we're going to move down to the transfer case. And like the front diff, the differential is pretty accessible. You have your drain plug here. This is also going to have a sealing washer in the back. Which you are going to get with the kit. And up here is your refill. Now in the case of the transfer case you want to check what the specifications are as far how much fluid to put in. Don't necessarily use the bottom of the hole as your fill point. You're going fill this up with the specified amount and the specified amount only. Reinstall your plug. Same thing you're going to get new plugs, wipe the threads out. Make sure they're good and clean. Make sure the surfaces where the seals run against has been good and clean. You're doing this as a maintenance item, you really don't need to create any more leaks. So we're going to work our way back to the rear differential. Now we're here at the rear diff. And again, pretty accessible. Your drain plug right here. And that's going to be the same as the front differential where you can use a 9 16th or a 14 millimeter hex allen wrench drive. Plug is in here. Again clean the threads out. You need to take the plug out. You're going to get a new plug with the kit. So you don't have to worry about wiping this one off. And then to refill. Here's your fill plug right here. Again, easily accessible from the back. wipe the threads off. Make sure your threads are clean before you put your plug back in. Fill to the specified amount. Not necessarily using the bottom of the hole as your level point. Always fill with the specified amount. And that's pretty much it. And as much as, It's a relatively easy job. Do it out in the driveway. Just make sure you have pans big enough. You're going to catch all the fluids. You don't need to make a mess. But it does wonders for the longevity for any of these components. Because you will get condensation build up in there. You will get some moisture. You will get some wear. You will get some fluid breakdown. It's a petroleum based fluid. It will break down over a period time. So, nice little weekend project or Saturday afternoon. It wont take you all that long to do. Drain and refill. Works very good. If you're not really sure how to fill these. Trying to find an easy way - I use a suction gun. Suction gun you can draw the fluid out of the bottle, insert into the hole and fill. And that's pretty much it. When you're ready to change over the fluids on your differential and transfer case in your L322, now this is 2003 to 2005 with the BMW engine and driveline. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential, transfer case, axle oil, swivel housing service on a 1997 Defender 90. In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differentials and transfer case, and a very in-depth, step-by-step service to the front swivel ball joints. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 30,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs.
The referenced kit can be found here. Part #: DTCM500A Performing the Differential, Transfer Case, Axle Oil, Swivel Housing Service On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and as part of our service and maintenance kits we're going to show you the maintenance program involved with changing differential, transfer case axle oil, swivel housing service kit number DTCM500A. And this kit is essentially going to be giving you the fill plugs, the drain plugs, and all the fluids that you need, with the proper capacities, to change the fluids in the differentials, in the transfer case and in the front swivel joints.Should you need any of the kits I would suggest you call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential, transfer case and axle oil service ( using our
complete kit # DTCM600A ) on a Discovery I, 1994 - 1999. In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differentials and transfer case. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 30,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat. Kit #: DTCM600A Performing Differential, Axle & Transfer Case Service On Discovery I 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to introduce you to another one of our maintenance kits as part of our maintenance and repair academy. This kit is for the 1994 to 1998 Discovery I. And it is for changing the fluids in the front and rear differentials, the transfer case and the front swivel balls. Now we have the kit laid out for you here. Where you have all your fluids that you need to change on all 4 items. Along with new drain plugs, fills plugs, washers. Right across the board. Gives you everything you need. Now it's always best to replace the old plugs with the new ones, only because in cases like where you have a female receptacle. You get this full of rust and whatnot it's hard to get the tool in. Plus it will just end up making the job look better when youre done. Now, this is a copy of the sheet that you can download and make copies of right from our website. And this is all part of our maintenance and repair academy. And you'll see differential, axle and transfer case maintenance kit. Recommended every 30,000 miles. And then it gives you a list a breakdown of all the components that come with the kit. That Kit number is DTCM600A. And again they do recommend every 30,000 miles, but if you put your vehicle through rough service, do a lot of off roading and whatnot. Especially in wet damp areas, it's usually best to change that a little more regularly. You definitely don't want moisture or condensation building up in any of these components because it can cause bearing damage along with other internal components. So, this is a good maintenance to do. And it can be done easily. It's just a matter of drain and refill. And what we're going to do now is we're going to show you the points where you're going to do your drain and refill for all 4 components. Alright. So. To change over the fluids on the differentials and the transfer case on this we're going to start on the front. And it's just a simple matter of a drain and refill. You have a drain plug down on the bottom. You're going to use a half inch either breaker bar or long handled ratchet because initially, especially if they've been in there for a while they're going to come out a little tight. So to break them loose you need some leverage. So you want something with about an 18 to 24 inch handle. You're going to remove that plug. Let her drain. Wipe off the inside. If you have a little bit of solvent that would be good because you are going to find material stuck to the backside of this plug. When you go to refill, reinstall your bottom plug. Take your fill plug back out. And you're going to top this off using the specifications that you receive for this differential. Don't use the bottom of the hole as your level. Land Rover does even states it in some of the manuals that this is not necessarily the level for this differential. So you're going to look up the specifications and put that amount of fluid in there. No more, no less. Reinstall your plug. Again, half inch drive. You're done with the front axle. Now we'll move to the transfer case. Alright for the transfer case you have a drain plug down at the very bottom. You're going to take this out. Again you're going to find material probably stuck to the backside of it. Clean it all off. Clean your surface back off before you reinstall it so you don't end up with any leaks. You don't want to have to drain that new fluid back out. When you're done draining reinstall your plug. And then up top and right here - and it does look hard to get at - but with a 4 inch half inch drive extension and a ratchet which will end up sitting right in this slot, you'll be able to take that plug out. Again, before you take it out you want to wipe that area down. Get any loose material and whatnot off. You don't need that dropping inside your transfer case. Take that plug out. Again you're going to fill it to the specified amount. Not using the bottom of the hole as the drain. Now you may come very close. In some cases you may find it to be that's where you go when you fill it with the proper amount. Butt, use the specified amount. No more, no less. Reinstall your plug and youre done with the transfer case. And now we're going to move on to the rear axle. Now, changing the rear axle - going to be the same format as the front. Drain plug on the bottom. Half inch drive. Clean the material off before you take off the plugs. Make sure you don't want to get any junk built up in there. Clean the backside of the plug. Reinstall the plug after the axle drains. Your fill plug. Again you're going to put in the specified amount. You're going to wipe off any loose material or dirt built up around that plug before you take it out. Maybe even a small wire brush. In the case of something like this where you have a lot of crud built up. Take a little wire brush. Clean that area off. Take the plug out. Fill it to the specified amount. Put your plug back in. You're all done. When you're ready to change over the fluids on your differentials and on the transfer case and it's always best to do them all at once. Order your kit through any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential, transfer case, and axle oil service (
using complete Kit # DTCM600C ) on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential and transfer case, and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 30,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Kit # DTCM600C Differential, Axle, and Transfer Case Maintenance Kit on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech service representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to show you the transfer case and differential fluidchange kit that we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy. This will be for your 1999 - 2004 Discovery 2 and you'll get the fluid and capacity of fluid to refill your front and rear differentials and your transfer case. And replacement plugs - your 2 magnetic catch plugs. Your fill plugs for your differentials. Your drain and refill plugs for the transfer case. And new sealing rings. Now this is the sheet that we have for our repair and maintenance academy. This is accessible, downloadable and printable right off of our website. You're in Kit F. Again listing all the parts that are going to be included. And this is Kit DTCM600C. And again this will give you all the fluid you need to do a simple drain and refill on the fluids. This is a really good thing to do on a regular maintenance. Just over a period of time, just natural condensation can build up in the transfer case and differentials. You do lose a little bit of fluid out of these because they will evaporate. They are petroleum based fluid and there are vented differentials and a vent in the transfer case. So again, every 60,000 miles change the fluids. And in a minute I'm going to show you where all your drain plugs and your fill plugs are so you can do this maintenance yourself. And that's pretty much it. And it's a good maintenance to do. It will help your vehicle last longer. And when you're ready to change over your fluids give any of our knowledgeable salesman a call at 1-800-533-2210.
Make replacing the wipers on your LR3 or Range Rover Sport easier. Watch Jim as he explains how to change out your wiper blades, both taking off the old ones and installing the new ones. The same process works for both the LR3 and the Range Rover Sport. Recommended service every 15,000 miles.
Front & Rear Wiper Blade Replacement On LR3Hi. It's Jim from Atlantic British. This morning while driving in with my LR3 I noticed the wiper blades just weren't cleaning as well as they used to. I think they've been on there about 6 months. Usually 6 to 12 months is about time to take them off and put the new ones on. We're going to show you how to do that this morning. First thing you need to know is you need to look at your wiper blade. There's a little door you pop open and then you have to have magic fingers with eyes at the end of them. There's a little lever you're going to have to push to get it out of the wiper arm. You can't see this. You have to do it blindly. It's really quite easy though. The old one we just pop that open. And this is the blind part. You got to reach in here. Release that little lever - it comes off. And then just snap them on and shut the little door. And we're done on that side. Just repeat it on the other side. The right side is much easier. Same thing you have to get your finger in there. Release it and then push the blade away from you. Same thing. Just snap it in and youre done. Atlantic British carries a full range of wiper blades for your car. At an added note - if you're driving a Range Rover Sport, the method is the same. Okay, we're done with the front. Let's go around to the rear. With the rear blade it's the same problem. You have to have the eyes in your fingers to see this little lever to push it to release it. Just pull it out, kind of just fish around for that little catch and give it a push back. Pull that one out. Just pull it until you hear the click. Another thing you might want to be looking at while you're doing this is the spring tension in your arm, both front and rear. If it gets a little bound up a little penetrating oil will free them up and you'll get a much cleaner wipe. To order your parts just contact us at RoverParts.com, or you can give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Contact our sales department, order the blades you need. You can also ask them any questions about the installation.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in replacing the
fuel filter on a 1997 Defender 90. Using kit # ESR4065, it is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced every 45,000 miles on a D90. Kit #: ESR4065 Installing Fuel Filter On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video what we are going to touch base on is replacement of the fuel filter as part of your service and maintenance kits. What you will be getting in that kit is simply the fuel filter itself which is all that's needed. And this filter will be used in the Defenders, Discovery 1, P38 Range Rover and the Classic. Now what we'll do is show you how to install this filter and where to access this on the different vehicles. Now we are going to show you how to install the fuel filter. This is on a 97 D90. Your location will be pretty much the same on the one tens. Your fuel filter is your passenger side frame rail, just about between the front and rear axles. Held in place by 1 bolt and a pinch loop. And you have fittings on both sides. On the original equipment you're going to find that the fitting is going to take a thirteen sixteenth or a 21 millimeter wrench. The hose line is going to take a five eighths. Now, keep in mind, that even after you shut the vehicle down you are going to have fuel pressure in there, so you want to go up front to the Schrader valve and release it or put a pan underneath, just crack it loose, let it drip, bleed out until you no longer have any fuel dripping out, and then continue to replace your filter. Now the replacement filter, this unit here, which we've shown you in the beginning, showing what kit is included on the fuel filter. This is ESR4065. Inside the plastic protectors there is a copper ring. So when you take this out of the box, and you take these off, make sure you hold on to that ring. You could always drop this. If you don't know it's there you could drop it and lose it. You will need that to seal these up. You'll have one at both ends. Replacement of the filter is nothing more than just simply unbolting and rebolting. Now this is tapped into threads that are tapped into the frame so you can just put a wrench into this, take that loop out. I find that if you take, you're going to be turning this fitting down to loosen. So you set your wrenches like so. And with a little hand pressure you'll just crack it lose. I can see we have a little dirt and what not coming out of there. But one more turn and we'll end up. Now, take in mind, right here, this nut is designed to spin on this piece of tubing. If it doesn't, which more than likely if it has been a couple years since you've change the filter you're going to have some corrosion built up on that, what I would recommend is before you even get into changing this, get some penetrating oil, soak this down. Let it set for about 5 or 10 minutes and if it is still tight and still turning the rubber hose because you don't want to break this hose. This is part of fuel line. It goes all the way up to the engine. If you break that you're going to have to replace the line or make a makeshift replacement, which generally isn't recommended. You can give this a tap a couple of times with a hammer. Just get a small hammer, give a wrap just to break things lose. And this should eventually work lose. And if it doesn't even right away, just by working back and forth. Eventually it will crack lose and you'll be able to change it. And you're going to do the same thing on the back side. Take that nut out. You can take the whole filter out. Slide it out of the loop. Slide the new filter in. Now the original - like I said this is going to be thirteen sixteenth or 21 millimeter - the replacement filter on these fitting ends is three quarter or 19 millimeter. And you'll see at the end of the filter it tells you out. And that's indicating that's the side that's going to facing the engine. So it will be installed in that position. You don't want to get it backwards, it will reduce the efficiency of the filter. And that's pretty much a fuel filter change over. And you really should do that every 30,000 miles especially up in the northeast, with the grade of fuel we have I find that 30,000 miles is just about where you want to be when you change these, and you should do this on a regular basis. Again, helps engine performance and fuel economy. And if you want to change over the filter on your D90 you can get a hold of any of our knowledgeable salesmen. At 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in performing the PCV Tune-Up Service on a 1997 Defender 90. Using our
money-saving PCV kit # 9205G, with everything you need to do this service, it is recommended that the PCV system be replaced every 30,000 miles. Kit #: 9205G Installing PCV Tune Up Kit On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to cover the replacement of the PCV maintenance on your D90, which will be the 4 liter with the GEMS system. What you will get with this kit - PCV kit number 9205G, and it is recommended to do every 30,000 miles - is 2 rubber hoses, this will be your feed hose and your breather hose, and your oil separator. And we're going to show you how to install this and also how to clean the area up so that it works better, or basically as new. So now we're going to show you how to install the PCV tune-up kit. It consist of nothing more than 2 hoses and your oil separator. Again, anything you do on these it's always best to put a fender cover down to protect your paint. And the fact that these are aluminum you also don't want to set any tools down or put any hard weight on top of these. They can leave an impression. We'll take our light and move the hose out of the way. What we're going to do is - this is your vacuum hose, it feeds the PCV. This does nothing more than plug into a nipple on the bottom of the intake manifold. You can take this out and clean it out or even just take a small drill run it up through pipe cleaner. Anything just to make sure this hasn't been clogged up with any oil vapor or residual varnish. On the other end of the hose, and down inside this socket, we have the oil separator. Now this consists of nothing more than just a little plastic corrugated piece of material that drops down in. Now as original equipment they crimp the top so that this can't be lifted out and up by vacuum. What you will probably do is have to take a pair of pliers or a pair of needle nose and pull that back out round so you can pull this out. Now I've found that in some cases you can fit a drill around the inside of this and literally drill the plastic. You only want to do that with the valve cover off. The plastic can drop down inside - you don't need that. But for the most part you are going to basically uncrimp this. And I'll show you - we can take a pair of needle nose pliers. What you can do is take a pair of needle nose pliers, drop it down inside. 2 hands. Try to spread the legs of the pliers and spin it around. The metal is soft enough where it will slowly work its way out. And it takes a little bit of work. And eventually what you'll do is get that round. In most cases you will probably be breaking this piece out in chunks. They get some varnish build up in them. They get stuck in place. That's basically the main reason you want to clean them. After you get it out, you can take a small bottle brush, brass brush or whatever, dip it in some solvent, penetrating oil works good, run it in and out to break up that varnish. Install your new piece. And when you install it, one end. One end has a stem. The other is flat and flush. The stem will be the part sticking up and you will see that in this one right here. Essentially at this point you have uncrimped the top of that collar. You've broken out, drilled out, whatever, the plastic insert in there, the oil separator. And you've installed your new vacuum hose. You've run a pipe cleaner or a small drill through the pick up so you know that that's clear and you're getting full vacuum. And now we'll move onto the other side where we have one other hose to replace. Right here is your breather hose. Essentially what happens with the PCV, which is positive crankcase ventilation, the restricted vacuum due to the separator on this side is going to create vacuum in the engine down in the crankcase area and up in the valve covers. At the top, you need a breather. Essentially there needs to be air in and air out so that there's a flow of fresh air running through the crankcase to alleviate any corrosive gases that build up and crankcase pressure. This one is nothing more than just an unplug. You have an open port here, an open port here. Small bottle brush, brass brush, it's nice to put a little penetrating oil on it. Brush both of them out so you have a good clean, open surface. Reinsert your hose, put your new hose on. And now you've just tuned up your PCV system. This kit can be bought by calling any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out. You can reach us at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in the spark plug and tune up service on a 1997 Defender 90. Using kit # 9207, which includes
8 spark plugs and a set of ignition wires, it is recommended that this service be performed every 30,000 miles on a D90. Kit #: 9207 Installing the Spark Plug & Tuning Kit on Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and as part of our service and maintenance kit program we're going to show you the kit that you will be receiving for your tune-up segment on your Defender 90. Now that is going to be kit number G. Kit number is 9207. And you'll be receiving our most popular spark plugs cable set. These are cut to match the same length as the original equipment. Also pre numbered so you know what cylinder they go on, and a full set of Champion spark plugs. In a few minutes we will show you how to install that on your vehicle. Okay, so now we're going to give you the basics on the installation for the spark plug wire and spark plug tuning kit. This is kit 9207, this is for the 1997 D90 with the 4 liter GEMS engine. Now if you are not sure if you have GEMS or BOSCH - which you wouldn't have a BOSCH engine in the Defender, but there are other models that would have both - you can go to our previous videos and our friend Jim will show you what the difference is between the GEMS and BOSCH engines. What we're going to do on this is essentially - and this is relatively easy. If you have ever changed spark plugs, these have the thirteen sixteenth head plugs, these are not the smaller five eighths. I usually recommend because I've noticed a lot of these spark plugs don't come with the cardboard protection any more. Before you install a plug, you always want to check the gap. Take 10 seconds now to save yourself a half hour later. And it's nothing more than a relatively inexpensive gauge. You can get these at any automotive center. One side will have this broken into fractions of an inch. The other side will be metric. And in this case they actually give you an English version of the gap which is point zero three three to point zero three eight. So you just want to slide that over and up. Now you can see you are actually a little on the high side here. So you just want to give it a tap. Knock it down a little bit. And now we are point zero three seven which is perfect, we are within the range. So now we can install this plug. We're going to show you how to change a plug and put your spark plug wires in. Now change the plugs - I usually find if you haven't done this on a regular basis you're going to do this just one cylinder at a time. It's much easier. Now on this particular engine, the four o and the four six, the cylinder location is going to be the same on both. And you're going to have your even number cylinders on the right hand side, which will be 2, 4, 6 and 8 and your odd number cylinders on the driver side. 1, 3, 5 and 7. What's nice about these sets and actually the original equipment wires will be marked with the number cylinder that they correspond to. So, when you take this apart and doing one at a time, you can remove your spark plug, you know what number cylinder you have, trace your wire back, there's your location on the coil, remove that one wire and then when you're done changing the spark plug re-install your new wire with that corresponding number. And then you're going to do each one all the way around. We have our thirteen sixteenth swivel head socket, long extension, our spark plug is off, our spark plug wire. We're going to slide this down, hook up to the plug. Now this one may come out reasonably easy. We actually just recently put plug wires and plugs in this vehicle. You're going to put a little arm behind it. Now if you don't have the swivel head socket and you don't have the long extension, you can get down there with a ratchet and a regular straight socket, spark plug socket and a short extension. And fortunately on these there's quite a bit of room to get down in there so you'll have plenty of room to work. Now again I'm going to keep reiterating being that this is a Defender, you don't want to be putting anything down outside of this mat, and definitely nothing heavy on top. These aluminum fenders can imprint. Now, there's essentially our plug. This is a relatively new plug. But if you are doing spark plugs on your vehicle now's a good time to read the plugs. It will give you a good idea as to how your vehicle is running. We have a nice even tan burn. We have a little bit of carbon built up which is normal. No heavy soot. And no bright white porcelain which would tell you that you are running lean. No heavy soot that will tell you that you are running rich. This is a good running plug. Now as I said, we just recently put plugs in this so we're going to put this spark plug back in. But I'll show you a nice little trick, just in case it gets a little awkward and I found this works especially well on vehicles with tight space. This is a piece of three eighths heater hose. Basically four or five inches. You can actually use a much longer piece if you want. It fits just right over the porcelain of the plug. This gives you a little bit extra reach. Feel around. You feel the plug settle into the hole. Because trying to get your fingers down in there where the spark plug is could be a little tight. And you feel it will drop right in. And simply spin the hose. The plug will thread in. Now in this case this is threading in fairly easy because as I said this is all new, a fairly new plug. You can wet the end of your new spark plug a little bit. you can put a little drop of penetrating oil on there so that it threads in all the way. And you'll feel it when the plug stops turning. Simply pull the hose back off. Slide your socket back on. Reset your ratchet. And you'll feel it when it comes to a stop. And just give it a little quarter turn if that. Maybe an eighth of a turn. You'll feel it seat in. You don't want to over torque. These are aluminum heads - you don't want to take the threads out of the heads. Now you've had your spark plug wire off. You know where your location is. You're going to slide your new wire back up in place. You spin back and forth a little bit and you'll feel it seat in. Same with the spark plug end. I've actually found on some of these it's nice if you have some dry silicone spray. Just give it a little shot of silicone because it won't become a conductor for the electrical charge that's going to be set to the plug but it will make putting the boot on the plug a little easier. And you'll feel it seat in. And you just wiggle back and forth and you'll actually feel it drop in place. Clip your wire back up into your routing looms. Now you're ready to move onto the next spark plug. And you're going to do this all the way around. And when you are done you'll have a new set of wires and a new set of plugs. And you should actually see a little increase in your fuel economy. If you feel you're ready to do a spark plug and cable tune up on your vehicle, remember we have that kit and it is now on our new service and maintenance academy. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out. You can call at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in performing the oxygen sensor service for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS Engine. Using money-saving kits # AMR6244SKA or ERR1834SKA (depending on VIN #), with 2 oxygen sensors each for front (upstream) and rear (downstream) installation, it is recommended that the O2 sensors be replaced every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: AMR6244SKA / ERR1834SKA Installing the Oxygen Sensor Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications, For vehicles with VIN up to 350101 (1995-1997): ERR1834SKA; For vehicles with VIN from 350102 (1997-On): AMR6244SKA Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to talk about the repair and maintenance academy kit that we ave for the replacement of your O 2 sensors on your 96 to 99 P38 with a GEMS engine. We have the kit. As you know you can go online and you can access and download this sheet. And what this does is give you a list of maintenance items are recommended by Land Rover in the maintenance schedule sheet for that vehicle. In this case we are going to discuss the kit for the O 2 sensors. They're recommending replacing the O 2 sensors every 90,000 miles. Over a period of time they do get coated. They get oil. They get road debris on them. And that will affect their performance which directly affects engine performance and fuel economy. What we have here is 2 different sets. And the reason for that is there is what they call a VIN split, or a change of design during that model. And what we have here is which stocks they - I'm going to pull this up so you can read that - these are the AMR6244SKA. These are for the P38 Range Rovers from vehicle number 350102. And that will be the last 6 digits of your VIN number that is on your windshield and on your door panel. The other kit is ERR1834SKA and those are for vehicles that were built up to 350101. So keep that in mind and before you order this kit you will need to know the last 6 digits of your vehicle I D number. And you can get that directly from the windshield on the driver's side or on the door jam on the driver side. Both will have your VIN number posted. Or even your vehicle registration will have it. So, there isn't much of a difference between them, but you will see that on the early version you have a black 4 pin connector. They use the same O 2 sensors. And on the new version, or the A's, uses a grey connector. That will help you discern whether or not you have either or. Again, I'll just reiterate that changing the O 2 sensors every 90,000 miles can make a huge difference in the performance of your engine. They do directly affect the fuel mixture, so they do directly affect your fuel economy. So now we're going to show you where the location of those O 2 sensors are and show you how to take them off. Here we are underneath a 99 P38 GEMS engine and we're going to show you the locations of the O 2 sensors. On these they're fairly open, they're very easy to get at. This is going to be the upstream O 2 sensor, and we're looking at the passenger side of the vehicle, or right side if you were in the vehicle facing forward. This is your downstream right here. Following your wiring will take you right to your connectors, which are relatively easy to access. Generally the 2 for the downstream are going to be right up on the backside of the transmission transfer case connection. And with these you are just simply going to use a five eighths wrench. And I usually start with a flair wrench because that creates less flex on the line. They become a little bit easier to disconnect. These are fairly clean, so you can see this one just broke loose. So you break it loose with a flair wrench, and then you can go to an open end. And you can even do it while it's still connected. You can spin these out. And then what you're going to do, once you have it laid down you can reach right up, disconnect it nothing more than just squeeze the tab and release it. And you're going to do just the opposite putting it back in. And once you set it in place, again, you use your open end to set it, and then you go back to your flair wrench. And you just need to give it a snug. You don't need to over torque it because you definitely don't want to strip the threads out on that and then that becomes a big job. That's in nice and snug. That's not going anywhere. There's the rear. Now you'll notice on some of these, right here. You'll see the heat shield actually touching the wiring. You want to put that heat shield back up in place because eventually what it will do is rub through those wires and then you're going to end up with an O 2 fault code. So always keep that in mind. Once you get these out you can see what's missing is a little washer and nut that belongs right there that will pull the heat shield off of the O 2 sensor. So keep that in mind you want to make sure there's nothing is rubbing on the wiring. Now just to show you where they are on the driver's side. Now on these the drive shaft seems like it might be in the way but you can still get a wrench up under the upstream. You're going to remove it the same way. Follow the wiring. It will take you to the connector. Squeeze the tab and release. The rear, actually relatively easy to get at. And what you may do when you go to take these off and sometimes you're going to run into something that's a little on the snug side, you can take a hammer and you can tap on the end of the wrench and slowly work it around. You'll feel if it's going to loosen up or not. Once you break it loose, I found sometimes you are going to get a lot of carbon build up, on the bottom side or exposed areas of the threads that are inside the cap. Just simply try to loosen it a half a turn or a quarter of a turn and then come back, and then go forward again. And it's a little tedious, but you'll do less damage to the threads which will make installing the new ones that much easier. And that's pretty much it for changing the O 2 sensors. Again, every 90,000 miles. You want to keep your vehicle running well. Keep your fuel economy down. And when you're ready to change them over you can give a call any of our knowledgeable salesmen - 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the spark plugs and ignition wires for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS engine. Using
Spark Plug Kit # ERR3799SKA, which includes 8 spark plugs and a set of ignition wires, it is recommended that this service be performed every 30,000 miles. Kit #: ERR3799SKA Installing the Spark Plug Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi this Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to review one of the kits we have available for our service and maintenance academy. This is the spark plug and spark plug wire kit that we mention in this. They call a spark plug kit ERR3799SKA. You'll see this on the sheet that you can download off of our website for the Range Rover 4.0 and 4.6, the P38, from 1995 to 1999, with the GEMS engine. On 99s, on early 1999s have the GEMS engine. Late 99s could be a BOSCH. If you're not sure which engine you have in your vehicle, you can refer to our earlier video that tells you how to determine what you have. Essentially the kit is going to be a full set of spark plug wires, 8 plugs and they're Champion RN11YC4 which is the correct spark plug for the 4.0 and the 4.6. Again, this is all part of our service and maintenance academy. And in a minute we're going to show you how to install this kit. Basically to begin what we're going to do is just simply going to change plug wires and plugs. Now fortunately on these GEMS engines these are relatively easy to get at. Now you'll find that if the plug wires have been on there for a while they're going to be a little tight on those spark plugs. What I like to do is use one of these pliers used for removing these have got rubber coated ends so it's not going to tear the boots open. These will give you a nice firm grip. They're angled so you can get into different positions. And you can essentially just slide this right down over the boot. Grab in as close to the tip of the spark plug as you can. Give a little twist and lift out. Now we'll slide this out of the way. Now I usually find the best way to do this is to do it one at a time. So we just removed number 2 spark plug wire, which is going to be the front right. Just to review, this is a V8, and the way the cylinders are numbered is 2 4 6 and 8 on the passenger side. 1 3 5 and 7 on the driver's side. And essentially you're just going to go one at a time, follow your wire with your fingers, disconnect it from the loom until you get to the point where you're on the coil. Now on the P38 we're a little tight against the firewall, which makes this tool all the more valuable. And we're just going to grab - we'll grab this one here. It's a simple lift and twist. As you get to the spark plug wires that are behind the upper plenum, this tool is fantastic for grabbing these wires and pulling them out. It's just a matter of twist and lift. When you go to put the new cables on, simply just line it back up with the hole it belongs in. Press down. You should feel it drop in and almost feel, not an audible click, but you will feel it lock in. Now in the spark plug, I usually find a nice long extension, you'll need a thirteen sixteenth socket. Preferably some of the spark plug sockets that have the rubber insert which makes the reinstallation alot easier. With a long handle it is much easier on the back. Pop that in place. You'll feel the socket lock in. Now these are aluminum heads on these engines. We generally don't recommend you change the plugs when the engine is hot. If you're going to do a spark plug change, do it when the engine is cold. Give a little pop. These have a pretty fair amount, almost three quarters of an inch of thread on them, so you're going to be twisting for a while until it finally comes out. Now I'll show you one of the reasons why, and it does show up on alot of these 4.0 and 4.6's. Pop the old plug out. And it's good to read the plug while you have it out. Now this engine actually is burning pretty well. We have a nice tan coating on the porcelain. The end of the gap and your electrode isn't burned away. This has actually been a pretty good running engine. But, on the other side, you'll see that white build up on the end of the plug, and if you look in the spark plug wire you'll see the same type. That's basically ozone that's built up arcing. In other words, this wire was not tight on the end of this plug and could cause a misfire. So, you want to read these when you take this apart. And you'll see there's your correct number RN11YCC, the original number. This is the older version of what we have in our kit now. To reinstall you're going to put your new plugs in. When you do, you're going to check the gap on the new plug; it's always good to do that ahead of time. These have a .033 to .038 gap on them. Having the correct gap does make a difference as far as fuel economy and cold starting. To reinsert, put your plug in your socket. You'll feel the end of it. Now you don't need to push because you don't want to close that electrode when you're putting it in. Just simply wiggle - locate the hole. You're going to have a slight angle. They thread in relatively easy. And what's nice about this particular socket design is the back of the socket is knurled, so I can get a grip with my fingers on it. Especially if you have an engine with a lot of oil coating on it this makes it alot easier. And you spin it until you feel it just starting to snug in. Attach your ratchet and your extension. Now you'll feel the spark plug seat. Give a look at what the angle of your ratchet is, give an eighth of a turn, and we're in. Again, you don't want to over tighten - these are aluminum heads. If you strip the heads out of these then you just made the job much bigger for yourself. That's essentially it. One last tip that I'll show you that I've always liked on these. Take a little silicone spray. When you go insert the new plug wires, give a little shot of silicone. It's not conductive but what it will do is make it a lot easier when you go install the plug wire to lock on to the plug. It will slide right on, lock in and the silicone will actually keep that area dry of moisture. Put your wire back in your looms. And you're going to do the same steps all the way around. And you may find that when you do the driver's side, if you take that intake boot, by removing the 2 clamps, it will make easier access to the plugs. So again, there's your spark plug tune up kit. It will make a general improvement on your fuel economy and on your performance. Generally these are recommended every, as our sheet says, every 30,000 miles. So again, this is Doug at Atlantic British. When you're ready to order your spark plug and wire set, just talk to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
The valve cover gaskets in the 4.0 / 4.6 / 3.9 / 4.2 Bosch engine in older Rover models like the 4.0 / 4.6 Range Rover, Discovery Series II, Range Rover Classic are notorious for leaking. Here is how to service them. In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, performs the valve cover gasket replacement on 2002 Discovery Series II (not equipped with secondary air). Using valve cover gaskets Part # LVC100260 (you will need two gaskets in this service). This video also covers removing the throttle body and replacing throttle body gasket (ERR6623) without disconnecting the coolant lines, removing and replacing the upper intake manifold gasket (ERR6621), and removing and replacing the oil separator (LLJ000010) as you have the passenger-side valve cover gasket off. Doug will also discuss vehicles equipped with secondary air. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat.
For BOSCH Engines Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (Part # LVC100260) Performed on 2002 Discovery Series IIAlso discussed in this video is the removal and replacement of the throttle body gasket, upper intake manifold gasket and the oil separator performed on 2002 Discovery Series II (with footnotes on vehicles equipped with secondary air)Hi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to do a regular maintenance item, or what we consider regular maintenance for the 4.0, 4.6 Discovery 2, Range Rover, the Classic, any of the older Land Rovers with the 4.0, 4.6, even the 3.9 and 4.2. What happens is the valve cover gaskets. They're notorious for leaking. You can put brand new ones in there and next thing, 8 months to a year later they're leaking again. So you might as well consider them regular maintenance. What we're going to do, is we're going to touch base in this video, we're going to use a 2002 Discovery 2. A very common vehicle. You see a lot of them out there. Essentially we are going to start with how to remove the throttle body without having to disconnect the coolant lines. We're going to replace the upper intake manifold gasket. Means we're going to be taking the upper intake off, which you're going to need to do with the BOSCH design because the upper bolts are hidden underneath the intake manifold. We'll give you some footnotes on some of the vehicles that are equipped with secondary air. This vehicle will not be equipped with secondary air. Your valve cover gaskets. And then while you have that passenger side valve cover off we'll show you how to replace the oil separator. They have a tendency to plug up. They act like a PCV valve so when they do become restricted or plugged you're going to end up drawing and using more oil than you need to. So, the parts you're going to need basically starting from the throttle body gasket ERR6623. We have the upper intake manifold gasket ERR6621. A pair of valve cover gaskets. They're the same part number LVC100260. And then the oil separator itself, which really looks like a little plastic Christmas tree LLJ000010. That's all you're going to need as far as parts go. Wouldn't hurt to have a gasket scraper or a scrubby pad, we're going to clean those areas up pretty well. And then we'll show you how it's done.And that basically would be plugged into the vacuum harness for the secondary air. Being this doesn't have secondary air, we just have a small black cover that runs over the top of that to seal that off so we don't have a vacuum leak there. We're going to install that in just a minute. This is just a plug in. Give it a pull. Make sure it's tight. We'll tighten our clamp here. Pop the nipple on there. And essentially we'll be pretty much done. What we do want to do though is we're going to run this where this belong. You can see the white tape there is for the location of this to hold that in place. Okay. We'll just get our little cover for that nipple. We'll put that clamp on. And we're essentially done. So, we have everything together right now. We've sealed up and done our valve cover gaskets, which like I said, can become almost a regular maintenance item on these. You can almost expect to do this every year and half, 2 years. So, when you're ready to changeover the valve cover gaskets on your 4.0 or 4.6 Discovery 2 or Range Rover, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give an overview the transmission service (using
kit # TRANSM200SKA) on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210. Kit #: TRANSM200SKA Performing Transmission Service On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on the transmission fluid and filter change kit that we have available through our maintenance and repair academy for the 2003 to 2005 ZF 5 speed used in the L322 Full Size Range Rover. Now this is only for 2003 to 2005, which was a 5 speed, and it does require a regular change of fluid. Now we have recommended 75,000 miles change the fluid over. If you put your vehicle through harder service, do a lot of towing, or if you live in an excessively hilly area, where you're constantly either climbing or descending, you might want to do on a more regular basis. Maybe closer to 60,000. But the kit which you'll see here, which is on a sheet that is downloadable and printable from our website online, is the transmission service kit TRANSM200SKA. And you'll see that it comes with 5 liters of ZF Lifeguard transmission fluid, which is the best fluid to use in these transmissions. A new filter. New pan gasket. Transmission filter retaining screws which are these 2 small screws here. A new oil pan gasket and a drain plug. You'll see you have everything shown here. Now this is your, here's your new O ring for your filter. And the 5 quarts should be more than enough to top the system back off and get it to the proper level, along with a new plug, because you'll see a seal built into the back of the plug. So when you take the original one out, you want to check around the hole, make sure that that seal didn't stick in place, it will interfere with this one. And you always want a new seal when you put the plugs on. So, this is our transmission kit we have available. And in a minute we're going to raise this vehicle and we'll give you some tips on how you can do the filter and fluid changeover on your Full Size Range Rover. So now you've seen the kit. And we're going to give you a basic rundown on how to do a transmission service on your L322. Essentially your pan is very easy access. There's no shields. There's no cross bars. It's right out in the open. What you have is approximately 21 small bolts that hold this pan in all the way around. You're going to need a 25 torx drive to remove them. I usually recommend your best bet is to do it on, especially on these, do these with a 3/8ths drive which will give you a little bit more torque and be able to crack them loose easier. You'll find some of them might be kind of snug and you almost feel like you're going to break it. If it is really tight because you basically have a steel bolt in the aluminum hosing which is the case of the transmission, you take a small punch and put it right on the face of the bolt and wrap it a few times with a hammer and normally that will break them loose enough where you can get them to back out. Now before you even take those bolts out, you have a drain plug right here on the transmission pan. You'll need a number, an 8 millimeter allen or a 5 / 16th. Either one will work. Pull the plug. Drain it out. This way you won't end up with a large mess once you do take the other 21 bolts out to drop the pan. Once the pan is out, you'll simply be looking at the bottom of the filter. And as you saw with the initial picture with the kit, you have 2 small bolts that hold the filter in place. They sit at an angle, if you take the 2 bolts out make sure you have a good size pan because even when you drop that filter some fluid is going to splash out and you really don't need to make a mess on the driveway floor. So, once you have that down, you're going to take the new filter, make sure you put the new O ring on the inlet. Take the 2 new bolts. Set it right back up in place. Snug the bolts in. They don't have to be super tight. Probably generally not more than about 15 foot pounds of torque. You get a new gasket. You clean the old gasket off the pan and off the surface of the transmission. And if it makes it a little bit easier, there's a number of different sprays and adhesives out there, like called a Hi Tack or a Permatex, which you can spray on the surface of the gasket. Let it get tacky and then you can apply it to the pan. This way it will hold it in place as your setting the pan up. Run a couple bolts in to get things started. Run the rest of your bolts in. Snug them up nice and tight. Reinstall your drain plug. And then, right here, just above my finger, is going to be your refill. That's also an 8 millimeter. Now it's going to be really tight the 1st time you go to crack it loose. So I would probably recommend use breaker bar with a little bit of length and a good short socket so you don't snap the socket apart. Then, using a suction gun, or even now they have some small 12 volt motorizes pumps that you can run the fluid in, top this off until you have fluid running out of the hole. Then you're going to start your vehicle. You're going to leave it in park. Let it run until it warms up. And then you are going to take that plug back out and then fill it until you get a basically a drip about once every second. And that's your fluid level. So, it's basically all you need to do a transmission service on your L322. Now this is the 5 speed that was used from 2003 to 2005. And give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS engine. Using
coolant hose and thermostat kit # 9369SKA, which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Kit #: 9369SKA Installing the Coolant Hose & Thermostat Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to discuss the coolant and thermostat replacement kit as part of the repair and maintenance academy program for your 1996 to 1999 P38 Full Size Range Rover with the GEMS engine. Now if you are not sure if you have a GEMS engine or not, you can refer back to one of our other videos that actually tells you how to identify either the GEMS or the BOSCH design engine. So in this case we have a complete set of hoses: upper and lower radiator hoses; heater hoses; bypass hoses; refill hoses; that is a service that gets neglected on a lot of vehicles with higher mileage and in many cases can leave you stranded on the road should any of them decide to let go. Land Rover recommends on their schedule maintenance sheet every 90,000 miles. No you see you have somewhat an array of hoses. Even if you replace one, you have to drain the system, this is a good time to do them all. At 90,000 miles you plan on keeping the car for a while, you really don't want to just leave a couple of worn hoses on there that could leave you stranded further down the line. You have the vent hoses, the fill hoses, heater hoses, bypass hoses, the hoses that fill the throttle body heater. Basically every thing that you need including the thermostat. which this is actually a weak point in the system. These go. You want to replace these on a regular basis. These are, in the industry, referred to as the artificial heart as you can see by design. What we're going to do is show you the location of these hoses and how you would replace them, along with the thermostats and how to bleed the system when you're done. So now we're going to be replacing our hoses and thermostat. Now on this particular vehicle, on the P38, your thermostat is external and attached to the radiator support on the passenger side of the vehicle. Some people in the industry refer to it as the Jarvik heart, or the artificial heart, because it's sort of what it looks like. But it is an external thermostat and is mounted to 3 different hoses and your lower radiator hose. Now there's 2 different ways to drain this system, which you're going to need to do. One, you've all ready taken the cap off at the reservoir up top, and that's going to allow the system to drain completely. And there is both a drain plug in the dead center of the radiator on the bottom. And you also have a petcock further up. I usually recommend changing or removing this for the reason it does a complete drain and it is much easier to get at. To remove it you're going to need a 12 allen socket. We're going to take a pail. The system is going to hold about 3 and a half gallons of coolant. So you're going to need at least a 5 gallon pail to put under there. You like to leave yourself a little extra. We have a 12 millimeter allen drive socket and half inch drive which is going to give you some more leverage. And you're ratchet. Now, when you first break this loose you're going to get some outward spray. So be careful. We're going to step back out of the way. As you can see it drains pretty fast. So our system is drained out and you can bet that radiator is completely empty now which is why I like that bottom plug. Now before we take any of these clamps off, the majority of the clamps are a squeeze type clamp which there are several tools you can use to remove them. This bottom type is a worm type, probably has been replaced before. We're going to give that a little shot of penetrating oil and let that sit for a minute before we take that off. Now the thermostat is essentially just held on by the hoses. And then lays on 2 rests that are built into the lower shroud on this. This is usually a good place to start, by removing your clamps, top and bottom, to remove your thermostat. And then from there we'll drop the vehicle and we'll show you the hose location up top. Replacement of the thermostat and that one lower hose is going to cover you as far as lower hose and access from underneath. Now up top, relatively simple, you just have your upper radiator hose which is just a 2 point connection at either end. We'll take that off, which is just loosen the clamp, break it loose, remove the hose, install your new one. Your heater hoses - you have one here that runs from your feed on your heater core. Again just a squeeze clamp, slide it off. You may find these are going to be on somewhat tight. You can always take a razor blade or sharp instrument and actually slice it because you're not going to use it anyway. Slice the hose, break it loose that way. And then the other end attaches to the front of your lower intake manifold. This hose, which is essentially your feed and your heater hose, runs off the lower reservoir, out of the heater core to this T. And then from here down into the thermostat. Now there's some of these vehicles that you may find that when you take your hoses off, it's a good idea to check this metal down tube right here. This sometimes can fill with rust, over a period of time, because they do deteriorate internally and cause a restriction here, which can actually create a back-up of fluid into the reservoir. So if it seems like you're getting excessive pressure in the reservoir tank, or fluid is filling up very high, it may be in that hose. So it's a good idea. You have all the hoses off. The system is drained. It would be a good idea. You have 1 bolt right here. And another up front. You can remove this and check the hoses and see if it is restrictive. Again this is all a matter of remove the clamps, take the old hose off, install the new one. It's probably a good idea, if you're not really familiar with the system, and I do this with vehicles when I'm taking them apart for the first time, with the access of smart cameras, take a picture before you take it apart, and then when you go to put it back together, you're not quite sure how something is laid out, you can always refer back to your pictures. So that's basically it. When you're done you're going to simply fill the system. There is no bleeder on this system at all. Eventually what it's going to do - this is your bleed, this vent line - and this feeds all the way back to the top. And it's a good idea on these 4.0 4.6, fill it up, let it get nice and warm. Shut it down, let it get completely cold, and you're going to find your level is going to drop considerably. At that point you top it off again. A good way to make sure your heater core is not air bound is after the second fill up, bring your vehicle up to temperature, turn your heat on. Make sure you're getting good heat out of the vents. If you're getting good heat you are good to go, the system is bled. So that's all there is to it. When you're ready to change over the hoses and thermostat on your P38 you can give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a wiper blade replacement on a LR2 2008-On. Using
wiper blade kit # 7503LR2, which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles. Kit #: 7503LR2 Install Wiper Blade Kit on LR2 / Freelander 2 2008 - On, 6-cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And as part of our repair and maintenance academy we wanted to show you the windshield wiper kit for the LR2. This will fit the 2008 on LR2, or Freelander 2 as it's known in the rest of the world. And this kit, based on our maintenance sheet that you can copy and download off your computer. This is based on the recommended service intervals from Land Rover. And every 15,000 miles you should change the wiper blades on this vehicle. Now if you live in a dusty area or in an area other than mild climate, you want to change these more often. And again this is a maintenance item that alot of people overlook, but realize that they need them come the first big snow or bad rain that they drive through. So it's best to beat that and do your maintenance when it's scheduled. Now what you will get in the kit is the 2 front wiper blades. And there is a small difference between the right and the left. You'll notice that the left hand side is a longer wiper blade than the right, and your rear blade. Now in a minute we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Here's your wiper blade kit. We're going to start with the driver side wiper. Now you can take the arm, which is on a pivot, and bring it back to the point where it is a little easier to get at. On this blade, and we'll show you on the new one, you have 2 squeeze tabs. And these are going to depress to remove the blade from the arm. And it's just a matter of depressing those two, lifting away from the arm and then up and out. Just that easy. Now the new blades come with a protective sheath on them, to keep them from any damage during shipping or during storage, so make sure you remove that sheath. You're going to lock this small curve tab into the slot of the blade, swing down, squeeze the 2 tabs again. And you're on. And that's our driver side. Now again, notice, fender cover on the hood. This way you can lay your wipers down in front of you. You're not going to do any damage to the paint. Now passenger side you are going to do similar to the driver side. Simply squeeze the tabs, we're going to pull away, unhook, take our new blade, slide your protective edge off, hook into slot, squeeze the tabs. You want to make sure that - there you go - when we hear that click we know we're in. And there's your front blades. Now we'll go around and show you the back because the back is done a little bit differently. Now the back is done a little bit differently, it's actually more the traditional hook design. Now first thing you do before you decide to change your rear wiper, especially ifyou're noticing that the wiper blade really isn't cleaning the back window very much. For some reason, because of where they are located, rear wiper arms have a tendency to get more corrosion build up in them and what not than the fronts. You'll notice here is a perfect example. I can pull this away and it stays in its position. This should pop right back on the window, and it should hold some tension. This pretty much sets wherever I put it. If your wiper arm does that, you need a new arm. We tried cleaning them up with penetrating oil and what not which is just a temporary fix and it will freeze right up - you need to replace the wiper arm as well as the blade. In the case of the blade, there's a small tab right here. Right there. Squeeze in, and that's going to release the lock. Take your wiper blade and push towards the door until you unhook. Now you'll notice you have an insert in the wiper. On one side it's smooth. On the other side has a small lifted tab. That small lifted tab needs to be on the bottom so that it locks into the slot on the wiper arm. So you're going to line that up. Simply slide that in place. You can hear a nice solid click when it's in. You know your tab is in. Push your wiper back in place. And your done. Now you've replaced the wiper blades on your LR2. And again, this is a very important service. This could become a safety item with worn out wiper blades. So when you're ready to change them over on your LR2, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the air filter on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005 (L322). Using Kit # PHE000050, it is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 45,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Part # PHE000050 Replacing Air Filter On Range Rover Full Size (L322) 2003-2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch on one of the kits we have available for the 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rover, also now as the L322. That's part of our maintenance and repair academy. What this kit is is the air filter replacement for your vehicle, this is obviously the 4.4 V8 BMW and this filter will come in this kit, part number PHE000050. And this sheet is available on our website. You can download it and print it so you have it available. This gives you all of the other repair and maintenance programs that we have available for your vehicle. Now this is something that is recommended every 45,000 miles. This is a double layer filter. You'll see you have an outer sheet along with an inner paper filter. Again, as with any air filter, it depends on what type of driving that you do, or the area that you drive in. Obviously high dust, high pollen areas you want to change these on a more regular basis. And again it's good to check them every 30,000 miles or so. So, this is the kit we have available. Now I'm going to show you how to install it in your Full Size Range Rover. Okay, so, your air filter is located in this canister right here. This will be in front corner of the passenger side of your vehicle. You'll see it's a relatively large cap. It's held down with 4 snap clips along with 2 more clips that hold the mass air flow sensor and your intake tube on. And then you also have a breather hose here on the front. Now you may find, and I found, some models, depending on the year of the vehicle, may or may not have this. But it's good this is here. We'll show you how to remove that. So, that's probably going to be the first place you want to go. What you have is a squeeze tab connector on there. And, I prefer water pumps, but you can use even a pair of slip joint pliers or whatever. And you can give that a little squeeze and what that does is raises the opposite corner so it should be easy to disconnect. And you get in behind it with a screw driver. And we slip that right off. Pop your snaps at the mass airflow sensor. Now, be careful on this because when you take this out, as you can see it's relatively tight. This always happens. There's a big O ring in there that acts as a seal. Keep tabs on this. If you have a dry silicone, or even just the oils from your fingers will help. But, make sure you hold on to this. Don't rip it. Check it for rips. Check it for cracks. If you do, and you reuse it, you could end up with an air leak that could show up later on, kicking your check engine light on for a lean run condition. So you want to make sure that's sealed. Plus you can also end up bring in dirt, ingesting dirt and whatnot in past the filter which will get on the mass airflow sensor, can also cause runability issues. So we'll push that off to the side for a little bit. And then you have your 4 clips at the halfway point, right about the middle of the canister. And definitely a long, thin screw driver like this makes it a lot easier to access. Lift that straight up and out. Now, 1st thing to do, you look at the orientation of your filter. You can see the open end is at the top. Closed end at the bottom. You simply reach in and lift. And you can see with the preliminary filter, or the cloth on the outside, how much that holds along with the paper filter on the inside. It's quite a large filter. That's why you find that the recommendations for the mileage are a little bit longer than you normally see on most vehicles. But these do need checked on a regular basis. When these get partially clogged it can just take your fuel economy and put it in the dumper. It's just not going to give you good fuel economy or performance. This is a critical part. So, you get your new component and youre going to set that right down inside. Again remember your open area was up top. And it's a bit of a tight fit but you can get that back down in there. You put your canister top down inside. Now there's some notches on there that locate it. So you want to make sure that youre fully, fully seated. And you can get to 2 of the clips without the crew driver. Both the inside and outside clips. And that at least gets it seated in place. And then you can use your long screw driver to reinstall the 2 harder clips. They are definitely harder to get at. Just a little tip. I find this front clip sometimes can be really hard to get at. Especially with this hose in the way. I have a long tool. I got this also from my local tool supplier. It's about 13 inches long with a 90 degree tip on it. No these little snap clips sort of have a hook on the top of them which you can then get to with this 90 degree end. Lift, and pop in. Definitely a time saver when it comes to installing that front seal. So if you get the opportunity this is the ideal tool for doing this job. So now we've got the canister top in place. We're going to pop that hose over in there. And again actually you can use the 90 degree tool because then you can get in behind it. And what you want to do is listen for a little click and then you know your hose is in place. Okay, so, lube up our oil ring a little bit. Like I said you can use the oil from your fingers or a nice silicone spray. You got some notches built into this air filter housing. You want to make sure you put that O ring back in place. Making sure it's fully seated. Pull that together with your fingers. Put your clips on and there you go. Your air filter has been installed. So, when you're ready to change the air filter over on your L322, 2003 to 2005 with the BMW engine, youre going to call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install
ARP Engine Head Bolts using Kit ARP4301 on a 4.0/4.6 Engine. ARP Head Stud Kits Replacing Standard Engine Head Bolts with The ARP Engine Head Stud Set On 4.0/4.6 EnginesHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on an option you have if you're building your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6. And essentially what it is is a replacement set of studs instead of head bolts. Now you know a lot of the newer engines have the torque to yield head bolts, which you see a lot on now aluminum block, aluminum head engines. You're dealing with a high expansion and contraction rate which is why you need that style. But you find if you look, is you see a racing engine torn down, a lot of them will have studs. And studs are a little bit more secure. They cost a little bit more, but they definitely do a better job. So we're just going to give you a brief run down on what you would need to do to install the kit. Now we do stock for these. That's the ARP4301. Great kit. Comes with the studs. Comes with the nuts. And comes with the washers. So, we're going to demonstrate this on a nice new block. But you would normally do your prep work. Of course, clean out each hole, make sure your threads are clean. Run a chaser down there. Make sure they're all cleaned and lubed. With the studs though, what you're going to do is instead of putting a dab of oil on that you would normally do on the head bolts, because the studs are inserted and they're going to be stationary, you're going to take just a dab of thread lock. You can buy these at any parts center. And it just takes 1 or 2 drops. And you just want it so it locks the stud in place. Now you'll notice the nut is designed to be a 12 point. You would use a 5/8ths or a 16 millimeter 12 point socket. You want one in half inch drive so that you can torque these down once you get it together. And you'll also notice that you have a coarse thread on one side, fine thread on the other. The coarse thread obvious goes into the block. The fine thread remains up top for the nut. Now you'll also have 6 studs that will be longer than these and they are going to be in the top 3 center holes. You'll notice that when you take it apart, your head bolts. You're going to have 3 larger than the rest of them on each side. So, make sure you keep note of that when you go to put this together. So essentially all you're really going to need to do, you can do this one of two ways as far as installing it. You can run a nut down on one of the studs. We'll take a little bit of the. And just say you'll only need like a little drop. That's all it takes. We'll run the stud into the whole. And we're just going to bottom it out until it comes to the shaft of the stud so that it will stop at the point. And you'll notice that I don't even need a driver. In some cases you may. You don't need to have them real tight. You just need to snug them. And you can do that with either a stud puller or stud remover which will slide down over the stud and look like a socket. Or just use the socket itself on the nut. And that's all you really need to do. Just lock that in. We'll run the nut out. Let me get a ratchet and we'll put that on there.Reason I do that because most of your larger half inch won't go down or are not accurate at a 35 foot pound reading, where the smaller 3/8ths drive is. So we'll do the same thing as we did on the head. Basically we're going to start here. Go to this. Go to this. And go to this. And then one more time down the row just to make sure everything's squarely torqued. Alright. So here's the finished product. You can see studs in place. Nice neat appearance. Plus the fact is it's definitely a more secure set up than the torque to yield head bolts. So, this is something you might want to recommend, I would recommend that you do if you're doing a head gasket change over. Or you're doing an engine rebuild. You want to hold onto the vehicle for a while. This is the route to go. It's really worth the extra money. So when you're ready to do this to your 4.0 or 4.6 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential and transfer case service ( using
complete kit # DTCM100A ) on a 2005-2009 LR3. For non-electronic (open) differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100A and for electronic differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100B. In this video, Doug explains the difference between electronic and open (non-electronic) differentials, and will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential and transfer case, and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 75,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. Kit #: DTCM100A / DTCM100B Performing Differential & Transfer Case Service on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to do is touch base on the transfer case and differential drain and refill kit we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy program. Now what you'll be receiving is enough fluids to change the fluid in your front and rear differential and your transfer case. Now in the LR3, that came with both a open or standard differential or it came with an electronic locking differential. And you should be able to get the information off the original window sticker or you can even tell by looking underneath the vehicle. You'll see the difference with the differential has a motor, an electronic motor attached to it. You'll see some wiring. You'll see a harness going to the rear diff. If it does not have that harness you have whats called the open differential. So vehicles equipped with open differential you're going to get 3 bottles of gear oil for the differentials, you're going to get 2 bottles of transfer case fluid and new drain plugs and fill plugs with seals so that when you are done and you put the new plugs in there you'll see that they are teflon coated and sealer coated, you'll end up so you don't get any leaks out of the system. If you have the electronic, then you're going to use the second kit which will have 2 bottles of differential gear oil, 2 bottles of transfer case gear oil and 2 bottles of electronic locking rear diff fluid. And be careful you want to make sure that you've checked and you know which rear differential you have so you use the proper fluid. Now this is a maintenance that even Land Rover recommends. You should do this every 75,000 miles. This is a sheet that you can go on our website and you can copy and download for your own information. You'll see everything listed on both kits. And you'll also see the listing on it which will tell you whether it is for the open diff or for the electronic rear. So we're going to take a minute and we're going to put an LR3 up in the air and we're going to show you the location of your drain and your fill plugs. Alright, so now we're ready to change our fluid in our front and rear differentials and our transfer case. Now we've already removed the steel pan underneath the engine oil pan. It's just 10 bolts, 13 millimeter heads, all the way around. Drop the pan and we move that out of the way. And what that does is exposes the drain plug right here for the front differential. Now this will basically be between frame rails, and at the very bottom, a good size plug. And when you're done draining - and that's all you're basically going to do. You're going to take your plug out. Let it drain. Give it a little bit of time because it is relatively thick fluid. So bring it down to a point when you just get a drip every now and then. You know you've gotten as much as you can out of there. Now the fill plug is a little awkward to get at. You've got your support plate on the outside, or driver side of the differential. And then you have your 2 attaching bolts here at the bottom. Above the bolt, in the front of the 2, and just above the bracket, there's a small allen head plug that's threaded into the case, that's going to be your fill plug. Probably the best way to get up into that is if you have a suction gun and put a smaller hose on the end of that or attach a smaller hose because it's a relatively small hole. It's only maybe 9 to 10 millimeters. So that's the best way to refill it. So that will take care of the front diff. Again that's just a drain and refill. Now as we move down to the transfer case, you'll find your drain plug directly on the bottom. Again this is an allen. I think this is, I believe this is an 8 millimeter allen. Take this out, let it drain, let it get down to the last drop. Then when you're ready to refill, you put that plug back in, and then there's your fill plug right there. Now again I'm going to recommend - you have listed capacities for all these fluids. Don't assume that the bottom of that fill is going to be the proper height. Always check in your book, look at your capacities. Fill it to that amount and that amount only. Now we're going to move back to the rear axle. We're at the rear axle now. Now this is what they call an open diff. It's just a standard rear differential. If this was the electronic locking there would be an additional motor on the side. You would see a small wiring harness going to it. That's the easiest way to identify whether you have the locking or non locking rear axle. Now regardless of which one it is you still have just drain plug on the bottom. We're going to let as much fluid drain out of there as possible. And then your fill plug will be up higher. It's a smaller plug, towards the back of the differential case on the passenger side. And again, fill to the capacity recommended in the book. Don't just assume that the bottom line is going to be the proper fill height. And that's pretty much it. It's going to change over those fluids. Now it is a recommended service because over a period of time. Now the differentials and the transfer case are all vented. And because they are vented you can get condensation build up in the system. They're not sealed from humidity. So water in those systems, eventually if they should build up can absolutely damage bearings and definitely the performance of those components. Do the regular maintenance now, save yourself a lot of money in the long run. So, when you're ready to change over your differential fluid and your transfer case, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen, they'll be happy to help you, at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in replacing the fuel filter on a Discovery I 1994 - 1999. Using our
fuel filter kit # 8989, it is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced every 45,000 miles on a D1. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat. Kit #: 8989 Replacing Fuel Filter On Discovery I, 1994 - 1999, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications, Also Range Rover Classic 1987 - 1995Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we are going to touch on one of our service and maintenance kits we have available for the Discovery 1, which will be the fuel filter. Now this is an item that normally gets neglected. A lot of people don't think about it. And a lot of your newer vehicles don't have inline filters any more. But, on these vehicles, the inline filter means a lot. And what this does is pre-filter any contaminants, dirt, whatever that may be included in the fuel that you get from the gas station. You don't know how old their tanks are. Because you don't need that material making its way up to the top of the injectors where it can plug them off and create fuel delivery issues. So you want to keep a good clean filter in there. Now they do last for a relatively long time. We recommend every 45,000 miles you should change the filters. By doing so will also help the longevity of your fuel pump because a clogged oil filter just makes the pump work harder trying to push fuel through it. Now in the kit you'll receive a new filter. You receive a new hold down bracket. 2 attachment hoses. 4 new clamps. And a new hold down bolt for the clamp. So you pretty much have everything you need to do a complete repair because you'll probably find the original connecting hoses will be dried out. Your clamps will be rusted. The hold down bolt more than likely you'll end up if it hasn't been changed in a while will probably end up snapping because of rust. At least up in our area where we see a lot of salt on the road, generally that bolt is rusted up pretty good. So this gives you pretty much everything you need. Now what we're going to do is we'll have this D1 up in the air and we'll show you where that fuel filter is located.And that's pretty much it. So when you're ready to change over the fuel filter in your D1, and this will also be the same application on the Classic, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Tech, remove and replace the engine in our 2000 Discovery Series II with one of our exclusive remanufactured engines. Doug goes in-depth in this engine installation, which in real-time should clock in as a 10 hour service. We recorded the process starting in January 2017 and finishing in November 2017, working on it when time allowed. It actually sat for months, as we had other things on our schedule to work on.
Engine Item # 9257DRK / 9257BRK Replace &Install Short Block Engine Demonstrated on 2000 Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on what unfortunately becomes a pretty common item. As these Discovery's are getting older what's happening is we're running into head gaskets, slip sleeves, damaged cylinders due to burning coolant, a number of different things where you would end up requiring to replace the block before you;d be able to do a proper rebuild. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to remove the engine out of a Discovery. This is a 2000. Essentially 1999 to 2004 are all going to be pretty much the same other than the 2003 and 2004 some have the secondary air that's just a little bit more involved there. But what we have here is a 2000 Discovery. The heads are already off the engine. We made a determination we have a bad cylinder sleeve. And we're going to have to rebuild and replace the block. So, we're going to show you basically what you're going to need if you want to change the engine over on your Discovery. So essentially we're going to start from underneath the vehicle. And there's a lot to unbolt when you get underneath. Main thing is going to be you have 4 bolts that attach the transmission torque converter to the flex plate. We're going to access those from an opening that's just above the starter. We're also going to be taking this little bottom plate off so we have access so we can move the torque converter. This bottom panel that sits underneath the front pulley of the engine, we'll take this out so we can put a ratchet and a socket on the lower crack pulley so we can turn the crank. That makes that easier. Starter wiring. Knock sensor wiring. We've already removed the heads off this engine so we already disconnected at the exhaust so the exhaust is floating free. You've got your 2 cooling lines that run from the transmission up front to the transmission cooler. We're going to unbolt some of that. There are some brackets on that that attach it to the engine. And the of course the bottom bolts for the back of the oil pan. And the 2 on each side above where the transmission bolts to the block. And then the other 2 we'll get to from up top. We're also going to unbolt the, probably unbolt the mounts. You've got 2 nuts on the bottom here. Some of this like the mount bolts you'll want to pre-soaking in penetrating oil before you get into to the rest. Give that a chance to work it's way in. So there's a bit to do. But it's all got to get done. It's not all that bad. It's just a little time consuming but it's nothing but nuts and bolts. All right, so, first things first. We'll start with the heat shield that surrounds the starter. And that will give us access to the 2 wires that attach to the front of the starter. The S wire and the battery cable. And what holds that on, the back of it is a snap clip, but in the front there's a little hidden bolt right up on the engine mount. Just over that plate on the inside. You're going to have to do it by feel. A 10 millimeter head bolt. And that's what attaches to the front of the heat shield to the motor mount. You need to remove that to get the heat shield out of there. So we're going to sneak up in there with a ratchet and short extension, a 10 millimeter socket, take that bolt out. so we've taken the bolt out of that shield on the round the starter as they said there's just a snap clip on there so we push outward and then come back a little bit now like I said earlier you have the battery disconnected so you don't have to worry about shorting out or touching that wire and this is gonna just sneak right out the front steering that comes right out there's the snap clip I'm talking about so you can see this just basically grabs right around the starter solenoid take that out alright so our next step is going to be to disconnect the cables off of the starter and you have one 13 millimeter nut for the battery cable and then a little what they call the S wire which is your wire which engages our solenoid just simply plugs in we can grab that with a pair of needle nose pliers and pop that out once we clear that out of the way and we've also got on the same harness the wire for the knock sensor which we're going to disconnect there and then then we can just take this part of the harness and swing that right up out of the way and then we're going to look at the couple different ways we can get at the four bolts that both the torque converter to the flex point alright so there's an access to those four bolts that hold the torque converter there's a rubber plug on the passenger side right above or right here underneath the starter and just above the offhand it's part of the back of the off pan you pull that rubber plug and you'll be able to get a direct shot at the bolts now there is a recessed in the oil pan so I usually find the best way to get at it is to use a long extension about 11 inch with a 13 millimeter side get enough ratchet and then just get in there and turn it to break it loose now to get each one to spin this I find the easiest way you take a 15 16 socket and a rat long ratchet and you get on the front pulley ball then you can just turn the engine you can turn it in either direction and if you have a little foley mirror that makes it even easier because then you can actually see up in there to be determined where the bolt is so bit of a pain but that's the way it's designed that's the best way to deal with it the only other way would be to make it any easier would be maybe to drop the front drive shaft to get that out of the way so you can get your hand up in there or even just drop the oil pan what you're gonna have to drain the oil anyway before you pull the motor out so this there's alternative ways of going about it so we're gonna take those four bolts out and then we'll go to our next step which will be accessing and getting to the bottom bolts locking the block to the transmission alright just quickly so we got the four bolts out this is what they're gonna look like is four all the way around thirteen millimeter head like I said they're not all that easy to get at but you can get at them so the next step is now we're gonna be unbolting back in the block from the transmission will do the lowers first and then we've also got a disconnect the transmission coil whines because they are held by brackets that bolt up to the oil pan we'll get that out of the way and at that point well actually be pretty close to ready to take this out the last step will be taking the nuts running the nuts out of the bottom of the motor mounts and then we'll set this down and we'll start disconnecting from up top so we'll start with the transmission cooler lines because the brackets that lock them in place there's one area where the coil lines are right in front of two of the bolts that we need to take out for the transmission to block so you have a clamp here and then another one up front that's got ten millimeter nuts we're going to take those out and then that will allow these to float around nice and loose and get them out of the way we're gonna leave them in place we're not going to disconnect them from the cooler we're not going to disconnect them from the transmission this way you don't lose any fluid you won't have to worry about doing that after you do your reassembly all right so now we've removed and disconnected the three clamps on the transmission Coll line so they're a little more flexible now it gets a movement so this way we can move these out of the way push them out the way when we get to there are two bolts facing the front of the engine on the back of the oil pan and two on this side we need to take those out and then you have two on the bottom and then one on this side and one on this side and the rest we'll be able to do from the top will show you a little trick on how to get to that so from now we're gonna take those bolts out and then we're also going to remove the nuts that face down on the motor mounts once we've done that we're pretty much free and clear underneath and then we can get back up on top and get the rest of the bolts out and get this engine out all right so now before we throw these bolts in the trace we're gonna do is I want you to show you take note you got different length bolts that come out of each location you got these four bolts or what's going to come out of the back of the oil pan into the transmission these are the two that are up higher at about three o'clock and nine o'clock and then these two are the ones that run through the bottom of the pan into the actually the bottom of the transmission bell housing and into the pants so just take note of the links so that when you go to put it back together you put the right bolt and right hole so we're going to throw those in one of our trays and we'll put that aside and now we'll get to the two nuts for the motor mounts alright so now that we've got the transfer the transmission to block bolts out on the bottom we're gonna take the two nuts out of the motor mounts you have an 18 millimeter nut one here facing straight down and another on the other side pointing straight down so you can get at these with a long extension and a good size ratchet a breaker bar or an impact gun once as it goes out we actually have a little hidden bolt right up here which holds this knock sensor harness up against the block instead of being a plastic clip it's actually bolted on so we're gonna get a half-inch socket on that and zip that out and that should pretty much clear us from underneath after this pretty much clear sailing we do need to drain the oil and remove the oil filter before we put it up before we put it down on the ground so that's pretty much that's pretty much it from underneath so let's get that done and we can set this vehicle down on the ground so now we've got this set down and we're ready to finish off the top end disconnect so that we can pull this motor out so what we're going to do at this point is we have the lower the upper : hose right here that runs from the thermostat over to the water pump and then over to the heater hose we're gonna remove that so we can move that out of the way you have an electrical connector right here for the oil pressure sensor and then there's another underneath for the camshaft sensor there's a plastic connector in there with a squeeze tab on it and you squeeze that down we'll disconnect that by doing that this harness here will be fully disconnected and we can swing that up and out of the way and get that out at that point we should be able to easier easily get at the oil engine oil cooler which some vehicles are equipped with some are not and you'll be able to tell this is one of the lines right here for the engine oil cooler then there's another that comes in up below a 7/8 open end wrench will crack that loose and we'll take those out we've already drained the oil and we've removed the filter so when we take that line off we're gonna drip a little bit of oil but not too bad so maybe you want to put a rag or some speedy dry or something underneath just to catch that a little bit so let's get this apart so we can get the engine hooked up and get it out of here alright so before I pull the hose off on just a few things the clamps that are gonna hold that hose on are nothing more than just a squeeze type so you're going to grab your trusty pair of water pump pliers squeeze down and on and lift them up now what will happen is these are probably been attached for quite some time they're not going to come off easy initially and just take the water pumps set it up for about the right size of the hose and if you grab around the end of the hose and twist back and forth all of a sudden they're just going to crack loose and then you grab just to the outside of the pipe so as you squeeze it rolls the hose off now before I pull this off there's going to be some residual coal in there and probably sitting in the pump so I'll throw a pant or catch pan or something underneath so that's gonna catch that so now we'll just roll that out so we'll do this and this the same way this holes will be out of the way alright so here's your two connectors removed this is the one for the oil pressure switch there's a little metal spring top you're gonna depress that and then this will pull right off this one is a little more difficult because it's in an area you really can't see but this is the tab I was talking about it runs across the back you just reach in underneath with your fingers and just give that a really good squeeze sometimes it helps to push it into the connector squeeze it and you'll actually in most cases you might even feel or hear a little click and then you'll pull that right out so now we need that harness up out of the way and that opens up your view now to the two lines for the oil cooler you have one right here and there will be a 7/8 open end wrench it'll crack that loose and then the other one underneath again it's just it's a no see but you can feel it you feel the pipe run up and there's a nut the same size as this one right up underneath we're going to be able to sneak a wrench in and probably have to tap it with a hammer just to get enough leverage to be able to swing that wrench and this is the transmission coil line you can just push this down out of the way it's flexible now because we've unbolted it from underneath and once we get those two out then what we're gonna do is we're get-- the engine crane hooked up and the trick to getting the back bolts and we're at least getting better access to them has been that with the lift we're gonna pick the engine up we're gonna unbolt these brackets on both sides take the motor mounts out completely lower the engine back down and it will now lower three to four inches lower than it would be with the mounts which exposes the pop bumps in the back and makes it a lot easier to get at them once we've got those bolts out this is ready to come out alright so we've got we're at the point we're ready to start pulling the motor we want four bolts up top that we've got to take out plus the motor mounts but before we do what we want to do is put some support under here under the bell housing of the transmission as you can see there's no mount and so when we pull this engine this is going to want to drop and it's going to want to drop down this is a woman housing so we don't want to bang it on a crossmember we don't want to bang it against the driveshaft we'd kind of like to hold it about where it is so that when we go to put the new engine in that we were able to line up the bolt holes a little easier so what I'm going to do is you simply use a regular pull strap these little straps are very strong and what I can do is I'm going to sneak it over the frame over the catalytic converters - under the bell housing back up to the other side and then come down to the frame and we have these convenient pull hooks that are on the discovery tools that they use done when they ship them over from Europe that they could lock them down in place in the container so these come in very handy right now so that's all we're gonna do right now is we're gonna run this up route it up and over under the bell housing back over the frame and we've got enough room between the frame in the in the body speak this through all right so in this case because of this strap the the turnbuckle or lock buckle right here was going to go up over the frame so you can also hook on the radius arm did the same thing basically over the frame under the bell housing back over the frame and hooked up there get a little bit more slack than I'd like so we can just take a little wooden block and throw that in there that's not going to go anywhere and so now we're basically ready underneath we've drop this back down and we're going to raise the motor enough to take the motor mounts out then lower the engine which will actually be now lower than it would be sitting on the motor mounts so you get better access to the four bolts on the top once those are out this engine is out alright and last but not least before we get into doing this though we realize we gotta take the hood off because we're going to need clearance we're gonna have to come up quite high you really don't want to put this hood will fall back but it'll only go so far before it starts digging into the plastic cow and possibly bending the back corners of the hood so relatively easy to take off one thing you definitely don't want to forget is to disconnect the washer hose pull off this nipple right here and then we have 4 13 millimeter head bolts we'll take those out and it actually will stay in place even with the bolts out while it's on the prop rod and then it's just a matter we'll take the prop rod we'll slide it down a little bit before you do call your neighbor a friend because this is definitely a much easier job for two people once you've got this out of the way and we'll get to work taking those top bolts out of the engine so you see now we have the hood off and what's very easy to take off like we shown and it's very light it's an aluminum hood now we have that out of the way now this opens up the entire area to make this much easier you'll also notice what I have hooked up to the top is what they call a load level or for a portable you can rent them you can buy them they're not that expensive and they just make the job so much easier essentially what happens is you'll be hooking this to the engine hoist and you can turn this handle so change the position of this Center bracket and then that will actually change the tilt of the engine so that as we come up and out it'll make it much easier and it also makes the installation 10 times easier so something you want to consider before you go pulling it out so what we're going to do now then is we're going to unbolt the motor mounts where they bolt to the engine block we've already got the two bottom pins done so we're gonna hook this up pull this up a couple inches access these inside bolts is to there's actually three bolts that hold them out to the block once that's out of the way we lower it back down we're gonna be only get to those back bolts all right so now as you can see with the motor mounts and the brackets removed in the engine load we've got very good access to these four top bolts on the top of the bell housing now we're gonna at this point all we need to do to move out of the way is the O2 sensor connectors for upstream you'll see one here and there's one on the other side they just slide over a metal tab that has an indent in it and you'll see a little push button right there on the top of the connector and you're gonna slide that to push that in towards the center of the connector to release it that connector will come out and then you're going to basically grab the back side of it with a push tab to separate the two halves of the connector to get that out of the way and then right here we have our crankshaft sensor connector and we're going to squeeze this top tab pull that apart that gets the wiring out of the way so now we have good access because the one bolt on this side and the other side at the lowest points are holding the bracket that holds those O2 sensors in place so the right in the way those connectors so we're going to remove those and then we're gonna take those four bolts out you can use if you have a flex head ratchet and a socket will work good they're gonna be half-inch heads I might prefer using I use a box socket wrench which basically has a flexible socket on one end and an open end on the other and that seems to work pretty well or even an offset wrench they're gonna be a little tight initially but once you break them loose they usually spin out fairly easy so we're gonna go ahead pull these apart take those four bolts out and then we'll be ready to pull this motor out all right so I'm going to show you a neat little trick being that the bolts on this are half-inch so we have a half-inch wrench we got a box socket down on that lower bolt I really don't have a lot of leverage so if you take a 3/8 break a bar and put a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter on it of course that adapters gonna fit right on the wrench and now you've got leverage to break this bolt so we got the four bolts out of the back we showed you how to take them out and at this point danger was ready to come out literally all I we did was put a little tension on the chain grab the front train back and forth and the engine just come right off the transmission in most cases that's how I've had them come off once in a while you're going to get one that's going to be a little tight you can take a long straight blade screwdriver and get in between the transmission there's and the engine is a couple areas that race the areas that are just for that purpose sometimes they just need a little gentle persuasion but for the most part they actually come right off so now we've got this away from the transmission we've centered up you're gonna check underneath you've got a couple cooling lines or whatnot that may grab a hold of something under the bottom so you just want to come up a couple inches at a time check your lines check your hoses a little couple inches at a time and eventually we'll get it right up and out of there now we have the adjustable adjustable top piece so that we can change our angle as we come up and as we come down by putting that in angle like this you sort of shorten the length of the block the other thing on the exhaust so going back to that piece of cardboard that we put in front of the radiator is also going to protect it in case this suddenly swings forward this suddenly swings forward and touches the radiator and we're gonna punch a hole in it we can square this off it's a snug fit but it does come out try to hold it square we don't catch the wiring harness in the back and you come up now remember to as your arm comes up it shortens the distance so that this engine is actually going to move forward a little bit as you're coming up so take that into account you just want to hold it back just a little bit we're gonna have to go up quite a way because we still have the oil paint underneath there forward where the adjustable comes in real handy we can pick up the back end a little bit and clear the oil pan and there we go she's out now it's just a matter of getting things prepped on the new engine that's going to go in and we'll reverse the process alright so we have the engine sitting here and then what we have to do now is we have ancillary parts that got to come off this engine that are going to go on the new one because they don't come with the new short block and you're looking at flywheel Assembly your starter front cover front pulleys and then we still have the crankshaft position sensor and in some engine designs your replacements not going to come with an oil pan either so we're going to remove the oil pan and that basically is stripped a block down to its bare essentials you know you would be getting new lifters and some other pieces on there but for the most part we're gonna need the majority of their loose outside parts on this to transfer over so first we're gonna start with the flywheel are actually flex plate and then a torque wheel because this is for automatic transmission this is the flex plate that bolts to the torque converter there's your gear sets right there for your starter starter on the other side and the course front cover an oil pan so let's start at the back and we'll work our way forward alright so starter first you have two bolts on the starter one top one bottom eight millimeter hex drive and I'll run that there and we'll get those two bolts out I'm sure we save our hardware we're gonna need those bolts to put it back in and now we're going to take flexplate and torque wheel off now something you want to do when you take this flex plate off these are notorious for a hairline cracking where the bolts go so you want to give it a really good inspection to make sure no cracks no stress fractures nothing on that so we this one looks clean put that aside then we have our large spacer and then the flex plate is basically held on by a hub and we've got six bolts right here that have eight millimeter hex drive in them and we're gonna take those off now these are in these are in really tight plus when they go install from the factory they're also held in by lock tight so I find sometimes even an impact done isn't good enough to break them loose now you can either put like I said a large screwdriver through here to kind of hold it in place I have a tool that's been around for a long time and is used specifically for holding a flywheel or attorney so we're gonna use that to hold it and I'm going to put a breaker bar on this with a reducer adapter so that essentially we're going to reduce down from half inch drive to 3/8 drive meter then we're gonna break these loose by hand and take them out okay we have that off make sure again save the hardware put it in a spot where you're not going to lose it so we're gonna do now is the last item in the back is going to be crankshaft position sensor which is on the left-hand side of the engine alright so the next thing we're going to take off is the crank position sensor and we've got basically an insulating cover over the top of it so we've got two bolts here that are seven millimeter we're gonna take those out take the shield off and then under that is two nuts on too long studs and those are eight millimeter and once we take those off the sensors out alright so we got the two nuts out we've got the shield off and then you have the spaces here that lock it in place again put them in a safe place don't want to lose them and then you just slide that crank sensor right off those studs don't worry about the rest of this this will come on the new short block so now at the front of the engine we've got water pump pulley lower pulley and front cover so we're gonna do is zip off these three bolts take that pulley off 15:16 so take the main crank pulley off and then from there the damper just slides right off to things you want to look at when you get to that point you want to look for heavy cracking and splitting essentially a vibration damper or this lower pulley is a center hub with a rubber ring and then the outside pulley I've seen a number of these come apart this rubber dries out and the whole outer outer area the pulley area can actually slide right off and cause damage so if you see any dry cracking and whatnot I would suggest replacing this and then on the water pump I would suggest if you're going to put a new engine in you're gonna take the water pump out replace the water pump put a new one in you really don't want to take any chances on overheating or have the thing go a couple months down the road after putting a new motor so just a suggestion so we're going to zip this off and get this out of the way so we can take the front cover off all right so at this point now we're at the water pump and what you have is four bolts here here here in here are 7/16 or 11 millimeter and these go all the way through into the block and then the shorter ones the 10 millimeter are the perimeter bolts and once we zip those out we can take the water pump right off and then from that point we're just going to take all the perimeter bolts off of the front cover and the front cover will come out as well so here's the water-pump like you said once we took the bolts out of tap straight off definitely want to replace the at least do the gasket on this now right underneath it is your camp position sensor we're gonna zip this off there's an 8 10 millimeter bolt and that's going to come right out and then we're gonna do our perimeter bolts on the front cover all right so two things to note you'll notice that when you're taking the perimeter bolts out the bolt that's in this position has a little bracket on it you want to make sure you make note of that so when you go to reassemble the bracket ends up in the same place that's the basically the hole down for the connector for the camp position sensor we want to make sure about that now you've got the perimeter bolts in there are also three nuts underneath there are studs that come down through the front cover and go through the coil pan and you need to take those three nuts out as well now the studs that are fairly long so you can do this one at two ways you can either take a little stud puller and pull those three studs out in which case then you can just take the front cover and pull it right off or what we need to do now is we need to unbolt the oil pan so that we can get the oil pan down out of the way so that we can then pull the front cover so we're gonna take care of that oil pan right now now what I'm gonna do is this is kind of a neat little trick you got a little bit of a stub that sticks out of the back from the crankshaft so you really can't lay this right up on end without some kind of a spacer so what I do is use that point there and we got some coolant left in there so now that we've got this leaned up you can see you've got a row of bolts on both sides basically we've already got the back bolts out and when we pull the engine you got a bracket right here that we want to make sure we note when we take that off and then there you can see where your stud is this one came out with the nut but again there's your there's your three studs so we're gonna zip these two premier lines of bolts out that's going to move the oil pan they'll be the oil pickup tube we zip that out and then from there we can just take the front cover off all right so we've taken this line of bolts out now just the note you have two more down in these wells these are at the very back of the oil pan and up inside so a lot of people forget about those I've zipped those out so now we should have all the bolts out so we can tap off the prefer to use a rubber mallet as opposed to a steel hammer obviously because it's aluminum you don't want to you really don't want to crack it you just can see somebody RTV the heck out of this but you really shouldn't do something I'll suggest to afterwards once you get all this off before you go to assemble it may get some engine degreasers or cleanup or take these to your local machine shop and have them hot tank this what it'll do is it'll clean off all the oil and grease get all the money out of it you really don't want to put a new short block in and have something like this in the bottom of it so here we have the oil pickup - we got a 13 millimeter nut here we've got two eight millimeter bolts here that will take the oil pickup tube out and then from there we can then remove the stock in there and we can remove the front cover so something also make know enough here's the yeah here's your I'll pick up two removes you have an o-ring here at the end and definitely want to replace that before you put a new one back in always put a new o-ring and then take a note that you had a stud a nut and then this spacer that went on the back of that bracket then the bolt would run through and then bolt to the block and that put this in the proper position so now you've got basically you've got everything unbolted and then we can just take a rubber mallet on this Center should break it right loose again whoever somebody's been into this engine before and obviously really likes our TV which is sort of a no-no plus they've got washers now between the oil pan and the block which is also no no and we'll lift the front cover right up and out now I'm gonna make a note we've actually touch base on another video about these front covers but essentially what you have here you can take these six Phillips screws out or actually I think they're posi drives now these are Phillips and inspect your oil pump alright you have an inner gear and an outer gear the outer gear basically is the rides against or sits in this housing the front cover so you want to make sure there's no scratches deep marks or whatnot they can affect oil pressure any marks at oil at all any scratching you want to replace the front cover and these oil pump bolts so just a note so that's pretty much it you've picked off what you need to strip off the rest is going to be on the new short block you put in and again would be a really good idea as far as the auto-pay in the front cover if you can get them cleaned off as well as possible would also be a good idea to do two valve covers at the same time and just get those items cleaned up so not only will you eliminate the fact that you could have somedirt or contamination so inside of them when you put them on the new short block but also they've making a cleaner approach to make it much nicer when you sort and put it back together and the engine itself will have a nicer appearance so we're ready to start putting this together we're gonna start at the back and essentially show you is that how to reinstall the the flywheel the flex plate and the starter that basically is going to kompis the back and then of course your crankshaft position sensor so we'll start with the flywheel and if you notice you have a pin to stick the back of the crank and that pin is gonna go to your locating hole and you'll see this sort of toothbrush all the way around that's an indication that's got to go towards the block because that's where the pin from your crankshaft position sensor is gonna ride so I usually just take one bolt and we get that locating pin lined up we can rack this back and forth until it drops in just take one of the bolts and we're gonna start we're gonna leave that half hanging out reason being is now we're going to put the other five in we're gonna put a little drop a thread lock on it and then we'll take that one back out put the drop a thread lock in and put that in all right so we've got a little thread lock you can pick this up in any automotive center and we're just gonna basically put just a little stripe right there it doesn't take much just need a little bit go in and we're gonna do that the remainder three bolts so we're gonna take this one back out actually even at this point we can do so now you got two bolts in there to keep the flywheel and dropping out squeeze a little bit on there and then put that back in alright so we're gonna do the other three the same way and then we've gone to the book and refer to your torque specs and these six bolts get torqued down to 58 foot-pounds handy little tool sort of old-school not many guys have got them anymore but this is basically for holding if it's a flywheel holding tool and they are still available so we're just gonna go around we're going to torque them all up to 58 and then we're gonna go back around and just recheck them all so you'll notice on the first torque I do it and diagonally I go across sort of in a star pattern and then just to make sure that you've got them all what you do is start at one point and then just recheck them all the way around in a circular motion so you know you've got all six and all all more torque to the right spec alright so the next thing we're gonna put on is the flex plate now you can see these are relatively thin you see these markings on here so you can see that this this originally was bolted to this side would have been to the transmission and the one with the full circular pattern would fit what you've got here so they would go on in this direction it really doesn't matter if it's the same both ways this is the plate that connects the engine to the transmission the full load of the engine basically goes through this plate to get to the transmission so what happens is on these and I've seen it happen many times they get a hairline cracking them something usually right in this area from the bull hole out to the outside and they give you a noise when they operate so you want to make sure that you inspect it really good put a good light on it go over it make sure you see no cracks in there whatsoever before you put this on so we're going to set this in place put a dab of Loctite on there just to make sure and then these get torqued to 33 foot-pounds alright so next what we're going to do is we're going to put the crank position sensor in that's going to run right here now this is a Bosch engine on the GEMs it'll be a little different but the positioning is the same and what we have then is essentially the sensor goes on then there's a pair of spacer barrels the nuts and that locks the sensor in place and then there is a heat shield cover that goes over the top of that with two long bolts the nuts that hold the sensor in are 8 millimeter the two bolts that hold the shield on are going to be seven millimeter so get your tools accordingly alright so just something I wanted to mention that should have mentioned earlier you had that groove cut in the back of the flywheel as I mentioned the the crank sensor rides inside that groove there's a little pin off the front of the crank sensor I've seen in many cases where when the process of taking the old engine out and that we're reusing the old crank sensor that sometimes that pin can get bent in the process so you want to make sure that you look at that pin it's nice and straight and you can actually look down in the opening here between the back of the flywheel and the block and you can see the pin of the crank sensor sticking out and it should ride right in the middle of that groove if that's the way it's set up then you're perfect you're fine but you just want to double-check that all right so put on the back is your starter and this is definitely a lot easier to do it now than after you drop the engine in place because this top bolt can be a bear so they're essentially the same style bolt is what you had on the flywheel 8 millimeter there allen head one on top one on the bottom we're gonna slide the starter in start the two bolts torquing down to 32 foot pounds and we'll be in and that will basically be it what we need to do with the back then we're going to show you how to put the front cover on in that area alright so just a quick review crank sensor crank sensor cover flex plate flywheel starter so now we get everything on in the back and then what we're gonna do next is front cover alright so now we're into the front of the engine and the first thing we're gonna do is put the front cover on the front cover includes your oil pump and it's actually a fairly large component and the reason we're replacing it on this because we've checked it out and we've looked at the old oil pump there's a little bit of scoring and there's some where you certainly don't want to put an old oil pump that may not be able to bring oil pressure up to where it's supposed to be on a brand new engine you want everything nice and tight so we're going to put a new front cover on it so the first thing I like to do we're going to do two things to get this prepped we're gonna take some sealant that I call it what it's called high-tech and we're gonna spray some sealant on this surface right here where that front cover makes contact and even before I do that going to pour some motor oil I like to get the chain nice and wet before I put that in this way and when I get to the point where I'm ready to start the engine I know I've got a well lubricated chain so I'll just grab any one it doesn't matter because it's mostly gonna drip off so the replacement gasket you'll notice has a black bead on one side and not on the other and this is actually going to sit in this position and you notice when I sprayed I also sprayed around the coolant portals on both sides because we want to get a good seal there and then what we'll do to now is we'll spray the back of the gasket and we're going to wait about five minutes late get a little tacky this is gonna do two things one it's gonna help seal better two it's gonna hold the gasket in place when put the front cover on we don't have to worry about pinching the gasket or having it seen out of place when we go to install it all right so gaskets in place you can see this does a really nice job holding it's got nice and tacky and we'll just a little fingertip tap there now if you don't like the the red that shows up around the seal or don't worry about that after you put the cover on you can shoot a little brake cleaner on every why not washes it right off so you won't even see it so everything's sitting in place now when you put the front cover on as they mentioned earlier the oil pump is part of the front cover if you wanted to get more information on this we actually have another video that basically is a overlook of how this is put together so here's your oil pump drive and you have a key weight on the crankshaft what we're gonna do is we want to kind of get an idea what angle that pin is that we kind of want to set this inner gear and about the same angle and it'll just make the installation easier you know we need to do really is to just line that up and slide it on so once you push it in place you'll notice now you have two locating dowsers pins here and here once you get this up in place you're gonna line those up and this will just set right in place so now it's nice and square so we're gonna do at this point is we're gonna replace install the lower bolts and we're just gonna set them in snug I'll you'll notice that some of these pass through into the block so it's recommended by Landro we're gonna put a little black RTV on the threads just so that it seals all the holes because there's a couple in particularly that paths actually go through into a water jacket in the block we certainly don't want that leaking so we'll take the bolts we'll put a little sealer on there we'll set them in place and then we're going to torque them in so we put a dam up black sealer black art any of each one of these right you got the one long bolt here and then the others are all the same length and then just take note you have a bracket right here on this particular bolt this is the bracket that's going to support the connector for the cam position sensor which is going to go right here so all you want to make sure you put that on so factory specs your recommends torque specs of 16 foot-pounds you start in the middle and then we work our way around in a circular pattern all right so we're all torqued up on the bottom bolts because we're gonna have actually two more right here and another here and then these also pass through into the block and then we've got the water-pump bolts we're gonna do that in a few minutes but on the original front cover there's an adapter right here that does a 45 degree for the oil filter and we're gonna have to take that off the other cover to install it here now it's nothing's it's sealed with an o-ring so I just wanted to explain that and we're gonna show you this is three bolts you take that off and then we're just going to transfer it onto here so this is the elbow that we're talking about and you got four bolts that hold it and I pull the bolts out they're usually on there pretty stiff so you have a little bit of a land that sticks out right here and over here so you can tap on that with a hammer because you will have to knock it off so we've shown you the piece that's got to come off now in the old cover you're also gonna find this adapter and this is what that elbow would seal on and it does nothing but just thread over the existing threaded shaft you're gonna just run that up in there and it's because it's a one inch socket we'll put a deep socket on it we got to Snug that in and now what will happen is when we put the elbow up it's going to seal around that o-ring so put a little Vaseline on there just to make the ease of the installation we'll tighten it up and then we'll put the elbow on all right so water pump is gonna go on next and same thing we did with the front we're gonna basically look at the let's look at the configuration and looks like gasket goes on like so so we're going to spray the greenside we're gonna spray a little bit on that will they get tacky for about five minutes and then we'll be able to put the water pump on all right so actually the book gives you a torque spec where it's the same as what we did on the front cover below it's going to be 16 foot pounds and you have the three bolts this one here here and here which have a six 7/16 or 11 millimeter head on them and you're gonna torque those to 16 foot-pounds the rest of them they're ten millimeter heads and they just go directly into the top and you can see they're open holes they don't go into any water jackets and those are just gonna grab a ratchet and Saki and you're just going to Snug them in all right so last two I am is last but not least we don't want to forget we definitely got to put the cam sensor back in and that essentially is going to now you before you put it in make sure there's an o-ring that sits at the bottom you want to make sure that's there so that that goes there and then of course there's our bracket now what happens on a lot of these the two little arms that act as guides to slide over this you'll see in this case coming apart they broke a little arm breaks so you can tuck one sight in and we're just gonna wrap a little wire tie around there and lock that in place so I'll just to show you what the finished product is we got a wire tie locking this in your wire your hole that's in the camp sensor for the bolt the bolts got through it the clamp in place so everything's all locked down nice and tight now we're just going to put the front pulley on and lock that down and we'll be all done basically with the front alright so same as with our pump did you have that key weight and it extends out through the oil pump so that it also locks onto the front pulley you can see the front pulley has a cutaway for the key so we get them pretty close to about the same position we'll wiggle the Sun and then we'll just wiggle this till we feel it drop in put our bolt on now if you have access to an air compressor and a half-inch hammer air hammer I would suggest use that this bolt calls for a torque spec of two hundred foot-pounds which is real hard to try to hold by hand if you can get somebody to run a tool around the flywheel to hold it in the back while you apply pressure on here or run it in with an impact because that may get you close to the 200 I've had great success over the years I just run them in with a half inch impact that usually tightens up to a little over 150 foot pounds and they never come off so now at this point we're ready to drop this in place so we're going to set this up so that we can lower it in place get it bolted up to the transmission and then just as we did when we took it out where we're going to attach it to the transmission and set it down lower than it normally would sit to gain access to these top four or five bolts and then once those are in we're pretty much bolted up up top we can lift it put the mouth side settle it down the engine action at that point will be in place and ready for assembly so at this stage of the game where we where we're at is they got the vehicle set up on the Left we've raised the lift up up a bit so that we have room for the legs for the for the crane with the air out of the front tires got to get the nose down so we can work our way over without having to climb into it so basically what we're going to do at this point is just simply Jack it up set it over the top and drop it down you notice the oil pans not on the reason for that is your sump is about five and a half to six inches deep which is that much higher you're going to have to Jack the engine to get up and over the radiator support so leave the pan off you can bolt it in once this is in the vehicle and on the mounts it's still very easy to install a pan from underneath so what we've also done is at this point I have a jack stand set up underneath the transmission with a wooden block on it to protect the pan and we can raise and lower the lift a little bit to sort of raise and lower the transmission position so that we can easily get into those top bolts and bolt up the top on on the motor now the other thing I was going to suggest or that I always suggest is you want to set one of the bolt holes for the trim for the torque converter that on the flywheel at about a seven o'clock position and then do the same thing for the torque converter so this way the two bolts are relatively close to each other so once you get the engine in and locked in it doesn't take much just to move one or the other to get it lined up so you can put that first bolt in and then after that it's just spin it and bolt it up and we'll cover that as we go along so that's where we're at right now so if you're doing this on your garage on jack stands then you can always do the height change on the transmission with a floor jack now as of right now you know we've got the strap underneath and that's basically just to keep the transmission from falling out from underneath so so we'll put a wooden block on the and of the floor jack just to protect the pan of the transmission and slide it underneath and you can raise and lower it that way so here we go let's put this engine in so you'll see something that you may notice the strap that I have on here essentially what has happened is a lot of these wealth the lot of these cranes the bar will not come out far enough to actually get the motor to reach against the transmission so using this tool and raising the lower in the vehicle on the jack I can get the angle or the transmission and the engine lined up and then once we got the engine down in its proper height we basically put a ratchet strap on here on on this pipe that's basically as I pull the ratchet strap it's pulling the pipe forward pushing the engine back up into the transmission so we're able to get the right angle so right now we're in we're all lined up so we're gonna get the top four bolts in and then torque those up and then we can lower this down and start getting things ready to put the mouse on it and get that in place all right so you see the engine in this position we've got the four bolts in on the back we've talked them in now like I said you're not going to get a torque wrench you need just gonna have to set them in really tight because obviously they torque them up before they put the engine and transmission assembly and when they first built the vehicle so now what we're going to do now is we're going to pick this all the way up so that we have enough room to attach the mounts on each side we're going to show you that and then from there we just set it down and that's going to essentially put the motor in place and then from here we can lower the vehicle on the lift and actually start assembling the top end and bottom end of the engine alright pick this all the way up we want to watch to where the bellhousing of the transmission just barely touches the bulkhead and then what happens is when this raises this shorten is essentially the arm off the front of the vehicle so the other beauty behind this tool is we can crank this in and as we do that it's also going to move the crane back a little bit from the vehicle so it's not up against the front fender all right so we're all the way up in the air now I'll show you what we have to do with the mounts so what we've got in a used driver's side and you'll see this is a new mount of course you know when you first took the engine out you're gonna inspect the mouse if you see a major cracking or even a separation of the mount from the plate then you know you got to replace it so we've put a new mount in but usually the original bracket it's nothing more than an 18 millimeter nut with a stud just change that pick the nut off that'll remove the original amount put the new one in lock it down and then tighten it good and tight so essentially the mounts it's like so down underneath now it's kind of awkward because you have one bolt on top and two on the bottom and of course one of the lower bolts is sort of hidden behind the bracket all right so we're gonna lower the mount down in there and just line up the top bolt and we'll run that bolt in not tight but we're just gonna run it in till you feel snug and then back it off just a few turns so that we have a little slack so we can line up and install the two lower bolts you know we only need to get the lower bolts in by four or five threads the rest we'll do from underneath and then we can when you come back up top to assemble the upper area then we'll tighten the upper it's all in sequence so we got that in place so just to show you what it looks like in place this is the driver's side mount and we're essentially just gonna do the same on the other side put the top bolt in put the two bottom bolts in as far as we can by hand and then we'll set the engine down because obviously it can't go anywhere once it's done that and we can tighten up the ball and bottom bolts properly from underneath all right so just a note don't be afraid if the stud under of the mount doesn't Blayne right up with the one on the frame everything is built in tolerance and that's why they use rubber mounts you'll notice the stud here we've got slack on the chain so the motor is just sitting there the stud doesn't quite line up with the frame but that's why they make flexible mounts one tap and it's in will do the same on the other side we can disconnect the from this and then set this down all right so just so you get an idea say here's how your passenger-side mouth should look now on this one instead of being behind the hole as little to the outside just nothing more than just take a little screwdriver and give her a little push and it should drop right in so now the engines sitting nice and square on both mounts take the head bolts out and then we're gonna put the vehicle up in the air and we'll start assembling underneath all right so from underneath the vehicle now you can see you got a lot better access to the two lower bolts on the mount same width on the other side so at this point with a 15 millimeter race we're going to tighten those down good and tight and then we have the 18 millimeter nut and we're gonna do the same thing we've got to basically block down the mounts you can get up into these with a long extension an 18 millimeter socket well tighten those down good and tight and that will lock the motor down all right so the other good reason for leaving the pan off when you put this in is to access the four bolts that lock the torque converter to the flex plate as you can see when we explained earlier we want to get them fairly close in position and of course they never line up but you can't blow the torque converter very easily you can slide a long screwdriver just under the flywheel and then just move that torque converter up so you can see the bolt holes so there we are we're all lined up and we can put the new bolts and put one in leave that a little loose so that we can get the other three and easily and then we'll go back around and torque them up now to spend this the easiest way I found we've got the front pulley on so you're going to take a fifteen sixteenths socket and a ratchet put it on the center front pulley bolt and then we can just turn the whole engine around to access the other two bolts all right just a note when you get this top you're gonna see this open porthole right here with the two threaded bolts the essentially Land Rover head reused the same casting from the old GEMS engines where the oil pickup would attach here and come down would feed up through a galley that's up in the block well when they went over to the Bosch system they changed the design where you pick up tube now attaches all the way up here in the front cover so don't worry about leaving that open because that galley becomes blocked off when you install the front cover so don't worry about that when in case you're wondering what that is or if anything needs to be attached there with the Bosch engines you do not worry about that just leave it the way it is all right generally the procedure for doing the torque converter bolts because we're going to put lock tight on this but we don't want to put it on the first ball because we're gonna leave that a little loose and we don't want the stuff setting up with the bolt in that position so essentially what you're gonna do is you're gonna put the first bolt in you're gonna let it snug in back it off about a turn or so so it's loose the next three when you put those in you're gonna put a little dab of Loctite on those like we showed earlier with the flexplate bolts and then run them in take this one back out put the dab on it run it in and then we're going to torque them up all the way around so our next step is going to be to add the four bolts at the middle of the bell housing what I've done is I've started the bolt just so you can see the location one here one up above and then you're going to have two on the opposite side pretty tight to get at and again they're a half-inch head what I've used to get at these has been like a very long 3/8 drive extension with a half-inch deep swivel on the end and then a regular 8 inch 3/8 drive ratchet and with that we can run those in and get them pretty good and tight it's gonna be really hard to actually torque them so all I can suggest is at that point once you snug them in just give it a good hard twist lock them in and you're done on the bolt above because the right midsection are in a very tight spot I found it the best way to get to those is a half-inch shallow socket with a three inch extension and 3/8 drive and then a universal to your long extension in your 3/8 drive ratchet yeah they're kind of tough to get at but you can do it so our next step now is we're going to put the oil pickup back in now you look on the end of it and you'll see that there's an o-ring on the end and then your gasket set will come with a replacement actually it says right on the packet hole rings strainer and pipe we'll just take a small screwdriver and usually these are still fairly flexible we'll just peel that right out of there put the new one on and I always keep a little tub of vaseline or even a little motor oil or work whatever you happen to have around we're going to lube it up just a little bit so that when we install the strainer it's not gonna twist up the o-ring.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in performing the oxygen sensor service for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using money-saving kit # MHK100920SKA, with
2 oxygen sensors each for front (upstream) and rear (downstream) installation, it is recommended that the O2 sensors be replaced every 90,000 miles. Kit # MHK100920SKA Oxygen Sensor Replacement Kit on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech service representative at Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to introduce you to the O2 sensor replacement kit as part of our repair and maintenance academy. This will be for the 1999 to 2002 Discovery 2 with the 4 liter GEMS engine. And what will be included with the kit are 4 brand new O2 sensors. They use the same sensor upstream as they do downstream, so they'll all be the same number. Now the kit there's also included with each one there also comes a small little envelope with some never sees in them so that they'll thread easily into the O2s. Now you'll see the kit listed. Now this is a downloadable and printable sheet that you can get from our website. Showing Kit # N. Oxygen Sensor Kit. The number being MHK100920SKA. And that will include what you see here - is the 4 oxygen sensors. Now it is recommended that every 90,000 miles you change these O2 sensors over. Over a period of time they do break down from coating on the sensor end itself. Plus contaminants and whatnot and some oil can build up around the connectors. It can make a difference in the performance of your vehicle and your fuel economy. So well worth something you want to do on a regular interval. And as I said Land Rover does recommend that they do be changed every 90,000 miles. So they are a wearable item. Now in a few minutes we'll show you the location of these O2 sensors, and a way to change them over. That's pretty much it for changing over the O2 sensors. Again reasonably it will probably take you 45 minutes, maybe an hour, to change them over. But in the long run it will be well worth it. And it is definitely a recommended service by Land Rover. So when you're ready to change over your O2 sensors, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
When the rear brake backing plate starts to rot where the pins for the parking brake shoes are retained, it is important to replace this item to avoid further damage to your braking system. With our NEW Split Shell Design, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explains the process involved in replacing the rear brake backing plates for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged, LR3 or LR4. Our money-saving
kit # PARKBRAKIT02 includes the left and right brake backing plates and connecting hardware, and parking brake shoes. What makes this rear brake backing plate kit special from the original is the new split shell two-piece design we use. With the original design, to access to replace you must disassemble part of the rear suspension, etc., which could involve damaging some components (through removal). You will avoid this with our kit at installation, since we work around those components. In this video, you will also see Doug remove and re-install the parking brake shoes and connect cable. tech support rep here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about backing plates and specifically backing plates for the 2006 to 09 Sport. Both the naturally aspirated and the supercharged. 2010 to 2013 naturally aspirated 5 liter LR3 and LR4. And you probably most people might recognize these. These backing plates sit just ahead of the and behind the rotor, your disc brake rotor, designed to keep rocks and splash and whatnot from getting all over the brakes. Again they're not water tight but they're there to serve a purpose. So what can happen is in areas that use a lot of salt on the roads or if you're on a shore area by salt water over a period of time these backing plates can deteriorate and this is a perfect example. This is off of an 06 Sport. Now not only are these there as a splash shield but they're also the support and the mounting area for the parking brakes. So it's critical that we maintain these to keep the parking brakes working properly. So I'll get you rid of that. So the issue is that when you go to change these that most of these vehicles are designed so that you can't get the backing plate off unless you pull the rear hub, which in most cases you're going to destroy the bearing and if you destroy the bearing you got to press that on and off which means taking the knuckle assembly off the back of the vehicle which means trying to get those two bolts for the upper and lower ball joint out which are usually frozen in place and it just turns it into a huge job. So what we've done to get around that is we've come up with a two-piece backing plate. You have metal brackets here that line up that you can install these without having to take the hub off and then set these in place. You'll have the three bolts that hold the plate naturally as it is as designed plus the two additional plates to hold everything together and keep it aligned. You'll end up with a good solid setup. And you can apply the parking brakes on these. So this is essentially what you would receive is the two rear backing plates both left and right hand side, the hardware needed to bolt the plates to that. Eerything else you're going to use the old hardware on. So stay tuned. We're gonna show you how to install them. All right. In addition to rotted backing plates a real known issue on this parking brake assembly is for the shoes to come apart or one of the springs to rot out and let go and you're probably going to find once you get the rotors off and you get a good look at it more than likely you're gonna need a replacement of those shoes. So just wanted to show you the kit that we've put together where we have the four parking brake shoes. You have two on each side. One on each side has the lever that it connects to the parking brake cable and then you also have your adjustment mechanism. And then essentially your replacement springs this would be the spring around the parking brake cable. We'll show you how to install that and then the upper and lower spring for the shoes. So reasonably a pretty basic setup and then of course you're gonna reuse the old adjustment knob for the bottom. In case that got damaged that's available as a separate part as well as long as well as the crossbar that goes from shoe to shoe. And generally those aren't damaged. They're usually in pretty good shape and you can reuse those. Should you need them though they are available. So to show you what happens we actually take one of our, this is one of our vehicles, this is an 06 Sport and the driver had noticed the loud grinding noise from the back and when we got into inspecting it to find what the noise or the source of the noise was it turns out our back end plates are all rotted out to the point where they've moved in, they're rubbing against the rust ridge on the outside of the rotor. You've got literally holes right through there so as a splash shield they become basically useless. And on the other side it became so weak that the front half of it actually folded in and created an opening. So this is how bad they can get and like I say we're in the New York area. You're gonna see this basically in any state that lays heavy salt in the wintertime, calcium chloride or if you live along a shore anywhere along the east or west shorelines, you're gonna have the salt air and it's going to do the same thing. So that's some pretty bad shape. So let's show you how to get those replaced. Alright so first to start this what I usually like to do is I want to compress the piston in the caliper so that I can take the caliper off easily and that we do by just inserting this onto the backside of the rotor and up against the caliper body. Not against the mount. And then we're just go to very easily and you can see it's starting to move we're just gonna bring back pressure until that seats the piston. And once you get about half way you can knock this in, get in behind that inboard pad and you feel it move it a little bit easier. And you'll feel it seek better too. And we'll just keep coming back can we get some room there. Before we start taking the caliper apart we're going to shoot a little penetrating oil in there because we have the, we're doing the right side, the pad sensor is right here so you pull off the cover for the bleeder screw. And lift that wire out of there. What we're gonna simply do is grab the 90 degree Bend on there very gently with a pair of pliers. We're just gonna work that back and forth. We're just gonna wobble that. And then start to pull as we wobble and you'll see you get a little bit more play, a little bit more play. And then we finally get it out of it. We don't want to break this because then you got to replace the sensor all the way up in it. Now there's a little brass loop that goes around the bottom of the sensor. You want to make sure you got that out of there because you don't want to lose that. That's what holds it. Now in this case it stayed in the sensor so we're good there. So now we can take the two bolts on top and bottom of the caliper. We're going to unbolt the caliper set it on top of the control arm and then we can get to the actual caliper mount which we need to move out of the way so we can get the rotor off. All right so this is a note - the bolts are a 13 millimeter head so I like to use a ratcheting box wrench but to keep that inner post from spinning so you can take the nut out that uses a 15 millimeter. You're gonna need a thin wrench. I use this style but you can if you have a an aftermarket wrench it's a little thinner than this, then the heavier Mac or the snap-on's you might be able to sneak that in there but the skinny wrenches work really well. This one in particular is a snap-on and it sneaks in there and it's able to take the torque pretty darn well. Alright so just as a note those bolts that we took out of the back of the caliper the 13 millimeter head you need a 15 millimeter opening wrench to hold these back posts. Once you got the caliper off you're good idea to check to make sure that the two posts are free that they spin they move in and out and then what we're going to now to do is take the caliper mount off and that uses a 15 millimeter 12-point. It's got a 12-point headed bolt on it. You're not going to be able to get a six-point on it. So I like using the proper size socket and then half inch drive so you get more leverage. You might have a hard time trying to get these off with a 3/8 drive. You want the extra length. You want the happiness. There we go. All right so with the caliper out of the way the next step is going to be we're going to get the rotor off. First thing we'll do is we'll spin this around until we can actually see the little neural adjuster. They'll be on opposite sides so like on the right side you'll find it on the bottom left side of vehicle you'll find it up top. You have a little opening here that you can use to get a screwdriver in and adjust it back and then normally there'll be a little plastic plug right here. In this case the plug fell out. You can just take a small straight blade screwdriver, a little penknife or something that just pops right out of there. So once you've adjusted it down and you'll be able to tell if obviously if you turn it the wrong direction it will reach a point where you can't turn the rotor so you're going to go in the opposite direction until it's fully seated and backed off and then we've got to take the locating bolt out of there. Now that's a number 45 Torx which you could probably try to remove with just a three-eighths breaker bar in a socket. But in this case I like using the little handheld impact because it knocks them loose. Especially when they've been in there for a long period of time. If you have access to one it's a tool that's been around for as long as I can remember. We used to use it a lot on motorcycles but comes in very handy on these as well. All right and now we take the rotor off. In this case you're gonna find it's locked right onto the hub so we just take that hammer. Right in the hub area. Isn't so sharp. And you'll hear when it breaks loose. All of a sudden the sound isn't so sharp. It becomes a dull thud. And we'll just work that out. So, we have the shoes exposed now we're down to the parking brake assembly. First thing we're going to do is we're gonna take these springs out now what this is is basically a fold over spring so that it's outward tension is going to hold up against the head of this pin. This pin just floats in there. So the easiest way is just to insert a screwdriver. You want to push in to compress that spring a little bit and then keep working it back and forth until that pin pops out. Okay so that's essentially what your spring looks like. They're a lot easier getting out than they are going in. So there's one, a little bit, do the same with this - push in and twist. We'll push those pins in a little bit. Get them out of the way. It's essentially the retainer pin and we'll probably want to replace that. If they're really badly corroded you're going to take alot of this out anyway. Might as well replace it, get some new springs in there. Then what you have at the bottom is the adjuster knurled this is what we turned to be able to compress the shoes to make room so we could get the rotor off. So now we'll just take the same screwdriver and spread the shoes. Okay so that's your, and that's your adjuster and you can see you got slots on both sides. That's where the shoe actually seats in. Then we remove the bottom spring. Just grab a pair of pliers. Pull the spring out of there. If you pull a spring out and the feels really crusty and crunches when you twist it back and forth it's a good chance, might as well replace that as well we have kits available where you can get all the retainer springs. So at this point what we're going to try to do then is we're going to spread the bottom of these shoes out wider than the hub and then turn them to the side and we should be able to remove that out of there. You'll see on the backside there's the end of your parking brake cable. This is the cable that's going to run into your electronic parking brake module which is up over the rear axle. Now this essentially has a little lock out on it so what we're going to do is we can push in and then we can flip that down so that we can sneak the cable out of there. Let's give it a little persuasion with a pair of pliers. And the spring hooks on that. So essentially there's your shoes. This is all gonna come off one assembly. So now we got the parking brakes, the shoes out of the way the parking brake assembly, we'll sneaked in here. We want to get our spreader out of the way. And again you can see springs kind of in rough shape. Yeah we definitely would want to put a new kit in this before we put it back together. So then we have the cable to deal with and the spring hooks into the backing plate here which we can remove with that. When we take the cable off this cable will just sneak right down through the middle. On the backside of this there is a large plastic nut that holds the cable in place. Normally you can take the same pair of pliers. They usually don't prefer to put a wrench on it because half the time the wrench just rounds it out. So in this case we're gonna just work it back and forth. This one's a little tight. The thing we're gonna do is we'll put a little penetrating oil on this. Let it sit for about 10 or 15 minutes and then we'll get back to it. All right. Just so you can get a visual on this here's the end of the parking brake cable and this is basically the retainer nut that you're going to take off. This is plastic so you want to be a little careful and work it slowly. You don't want to break it if you break the plastic now you got to replace the cable. So just quickly before we show you the installation of the backing plates. What you'll see here is you'll notice the old backing plate is gone. To remove it is relatively simple. There is one, two and three bolts that hold that backing plate to the knuckle assembly and they have a 30, a number 30 Torx drive head on them. The top one very easy to get at. The two you'll notice they're actually behind the hub but if you get an extended driver you can actually put it right through the one hole in the hub and it lines right up with a bolt so you can take the bolt out. And they come out relatively easy give it a little tap if they're a little snug and they'll come right out. And then essentially you're gonna cut the old backing plate. Being it's rotted most times you can just break them out of there but if they're still solid piece left you can take a torch, cut off saw, hacksaw, whatever you have available and you're going to basically just cut that in two pieces so you can take it out. Now I will show you how the replacement goes in. Again we have our three bolts in hand. These are the three that we took out to take the old one out. You'll notice that here's your entry area for your parking brake cable. That kind of gives you a sort of an orientation point. When this closed up behind there. just kind of wiggle around a little bit until you get some openings and that goes up in place there. And the short piece up top. And what we're gonna do is we're gonna put the three bolts back in and you wanna make sure you get this set up - and one tab goes over the top. Then what we're going to do is we're going to put the three bolts in but we're gonna leave them a little bit loose and then we'll give us just a little bit of movement so that the bolts for the two retainer tabs that we added to these backing plates we're gonna line up well enough so you can put a bolt through and tighten that down. So we're gonna get that installed. Okay, so, just as described - we ran the three bolts in, we've installed the two small retainer bolts that go through the tabs, we've got the the locking style nuts on the backside so they won't back off and as you can see you got a good solid setup here. Now don't be concerned you have a gap here and that was from the cutting tool that basically separates these two. This is not a waterproof system, neither is the original okay. There are no seals or gaskets on this. The rotor just simply rides around a little baffle and literally when you're driving in the rain it gets all wet anyway so don't be concerned with this. This isn't going to mean a thing. So now we just need to install the parking brake cable and the park brake system and we're ready to put the back brakes on and we're basically got the worst part of it over and done with which is the installation of the backing plate. Alright so the next step is gonna be, we're gonna install the spring. We've got the cable slid through and the plastic nut on the back installed on there. I don't really need to show you how to do that. The spring itself you can see the last coil on the spring is slightly raised which is going to make it a little easy to install. The area that you're gonna install this on when you slide this over has a slight lip right on the edge of this open area here and we're gonna do is just you can take your thumbnail or a small straight bite screwdriver and just slide that first ring over the top and then just essentially spin the spring and it'll thread itself on. You just run it in there until you got about three or four of those coils mounted on that and that's pretty good. And then from this point we're ready to put the shoes on. What I wanted to do is just give you an idea orientation of the shoes when you go to install them. In the case of the lefthand side of course the cable comes in the bottom. The cable gets hooked to this arm. Essentially all it does is that, the end of the cable is inserted through here. There's a little sliding notch on the end there so that once you install the cable the end of that knob at the end of the cable itself passes through the knotch, pull it and it pulls this up and it's going to lock it in place and then of course you have that one little segment of that spring we just installed. It's going to loop around that hold that in place. So the arm goes on the backside of the shoe. Your larger spring is going to run across the top. Your adjustment bolt right there is going to face you and then for the orientation of the crossbar because you have a round hub here in the center, this hump in the crossbar obviously is going to face up and you have a double notch on one side. This will be on the side of the arm. So that this basically slides in like so and then this side with the spring sits in this notch right here. And that we're gonna do once we get the shoes over the hub, but I wanted to give you an idea of how you're gonna preassemble this before you go to put it together. Normally what you'll do at this point is we'll have the spring out. We're gonna hook the this shoe to the cable, then we hit the spring and then the other shoe we just take the whole thing and back right around the hub and install it. All right so just quickly before I go any further we've got the arm, the parking brake arm in place, I wanted to show you the orientation of the spring that basically comes up from underneath and you'll see that it makes a little 90-degree bend on the end and that sits right in a little notch that's cut in that retainer fork right behind the end of the cable. So just so you get an idea how that's supposed to sit when you're done. Alright so I've got the shoe in place. Basically all we did was just take the two shoes and spread them and put them right up over the, over the hub so and again look at your spring orientation. You see the crossbar or the cross piece here on the spring is down underneath this block. You don't want it rubbing up against the block. That's proper way for it to sit. So what I'm going to do now is I'm just going to sit this one shoe - I'm going to put the pin through and put the spring in and I would probably suggest as if this is your first time doing this wear safety glasses because these do have a tendency to pop off several times until you sort of get the knack on how to install them. So the pin goes in through the backing plate, goes through this slotted hole right here. There we go. All right. So this is the fun part. This is actually where a third pair of hands we definitely come in handy because you can't really compress the spring with your hands. It's just too much tension there. Alright at this point now what we've got there you got your crossbar. Now remember their orientation - the loop is basically going to be in conjunction with the hump of the hub. You want to probably do this with safety glasses. Generally I don't have a problem with these springs but now and then one may pop off and this is as I said. So let's do it this way. We're gonna slide this in here first. So that locks in. Let's put the spring back on there. And we need to lift that crossbar so it falls into that slot in the shoe. Okay here I heard everything snap into place and we're gonna line up with that hole in the back for the lockdown pin. Now the spring wants to pull the shoe away from the backing plate so we'll just install a, put a big screwdriver right here. Lock it, lock it it. That will sort of hold that from springing out while we're getting the rest of our parts. We're going to slide our pin in and that's going to go through this slotted hole right here. You want to set this up so that we've got this shoe as tight as possible up against the backing plate. There we go. Get the spring in underneath. You get some room and what you do is you put your fingers in the back and you're going to lift that, that pin so then as we compress the spring drop the pin in there to hold that and seat the head of the pin in the spring. Okay so now we got a crossbar in, we got our spring in place, now we're gonna do now at this point is install the bottom spring and the adjuster. Alright I showed you how to lock the springs in. We got the top spring in, the two clips. What we need to do now is we're going to spread the bottom. We're gonna install the small spring and the adjuster. Now just to give you a breakdown you've got one barrel on one side has the notch that's going to sit into the tab at the bottom of the shoe. The other side has the same thing. But I should be able to turn this piece here in here. So obviously this one is locked up so I'm gonna have a hard time adjusting it. So we're gonna soak this, we're going to clean it up, soak it down with penetrating oil. If yours is damaged or locked up to the point you can't turn it, again these parts are also available separately from the kit but they are available. So we're gonna free this up first before we install it. Alright so we're going to install the lower spring and see the two holes on each side on the bottom. Hold that up in there. Put this screwdriver, small pry bar, whatever you want to use, and we're gonna go up against the bottom of the shoe and we'll spread that out some so that we can install the adjuster and it doesn't matter which side you put this adjuster on. So you want to get that slot up in there, and then there and then we'll just turn this until it lines up and drops in. Just to double check. Okay and we're in. Just wanted before I put the rotor back on I want to show you a finished product of how the how these parking brake shoes should look when they're done. With your spring in place it's not over the front of this block its underneath. Crossbar. Spring is in place. The pins and then of course your adjuster and your retainer spring on the bottom. So adjusters should be all the way in so that the shoes are close together. I've got the shoes fairly well centered so now at this point we can put the rotor, on the retainer bolt and then do the adjustment on the parking brake. All right so we're gonna spin the rotor around so that your inspection hole lines up with the adjusting knob that we installed earlier, sits at the bottom of the shoes on this, and we're gonna turn this until it locks the rotor right up. Until we can't turn it and this just spins and you'll feel it start to tension up and you want to really give it, you really want to lock it in there. Take the same screwdriver and then we're gonna put it here. You can see we can't turn the wheel. So then we're now going to go back - now you can do this one of two ways. You can take a small little bit of chalk or some little paint or whatever and you can mark that knurl, that knob that we're spinning, and you're gonna go one full turn or what we'll do is we back it down 8th clicks. One. two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Which is the equivalent of one full turn. So we should be able to spin the rotor. You're gonna hear a very slight drag and then the other step to this is we're gonna line up with that little adjustment bolt that we talked about earlier. We can see that right in there and it's going to be a number five allen head. We're gonna install. We're gonna loosen that nut a little bit and they tell you just basically just tap on the rotor - it centers everything up. We'll lock it back down and then our adjustment will be done. So we've done our adjustment and then last but not least don't forget your little inspection plug. That just keeps the excess and like I said earlier this is not a waterproof system. This little plug isn't gonna keep all the water and dirt out but it is there just to keep out major debris. So now we have our shoes installed, the rotor is on. Now is just a matter of get our brakes back together and we're ready to go. All right so at this point we're gonna put the brakes on and you may or may not be replacing your brakes when you take it apart so what we're gonna do is we're actually going to replace the rear brakes on this while we have this going. So first thing you want to do before you put your caliper mount back on make sure that the pins that you support the caliper bolt to you want to make sure those are nice and free and that they move in and out. The pads do come with the zinc sliders so we've got those popped in place. Now the pads I'll do a quick explanation. You're going to find that two pads have this paper backing, two pads do not. Normally we've always found that this one which has sort of an adhesive on it is going to be on the outside resting up against the two flat areas of the caliper. So just so you know when you pull it apart you know which pad to put. So without the adhesive on the inside, with the adhesive pad you're gonna peel that off before you install the caliper itself and that one gets run on the outside. So I'm just going to set this down in, run the two bolts in the back. Alright and last but not least we have the caliper itself. Now remember when we first pulled it out we had completely collapsed the piston so now we should be able to just install this over the the new pads and in the course of the doing the rather repairs and whatnot it may work its way out just a little bit so you can always squeeze that back in with a large pair of pliers. So here we have the outer pad with the paper removed so we have the sticky adhesive and it's not even really a strong adhesive and they just put it there to try to help eliminate squealing. So we'll slide our caliper over. We'll have to push our back pins in. I usually start with the top one because that's the easiest to get at and once you get that started it'll sort of line you up for the bottom one. And there'll be a little spring tension on. Pop that in. And you may need to wiggle it around a little bit to get the bolt seated in the threads. Give a few turns. Okay we're in place so all we need now is just our two wrenches and tighten those two bolts up. Alright so you've seen how to assemble the backing plates the parking brakes we've done the parking brake adjustment. We've got our pads in place, calipers back in place. All we need at this point is we put our wheel back on, take the vehicle for a drive. We'll get the brakes worn in just a little bit. But for the most part that's how you're gonna do an assembly and replace those rotted old backing plates. So when you're ready to do so just contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the spark plugs for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009. Using our Spark Plug Kit # LR005253SKA, which includes 8 spark plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. This service is also valid on the LR3 V8 4.4L and the Range Rover Full Size with the Jag engine. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to live chat.
Kit # LR005253SKA Installing Spark Plugs on Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009, Cylinder, North American Specification or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about another one of our maintenance kits that we have available. This one in particular for the Range Rover Sport Supercharged and actually this particular kit will also fit the LR3 and a number of the other JAG engine Land Rovers. And you can actually find out the application just by going on our website. And essentially what it is is 8 spark plugs. They are a replacement unit. They do require some maintenance. We have a recommended mileage of every 90,000 miles. Our kit number as you see right here is LR005253SKA. Now this sheet you were just looking at is actually available on our website where you can download and make a print. And this way it will also give you other service intervals that are recommended for your vehicle. The big thing is that over a period of time spark plugs do wear. Now the platinum plugs have definitely extended the life of the plugs, whereas we used to have to change them every 30,000 miles and now it is every 90,000 to 100,000 miles. Now take into account that's a general rule. Now if you use your vehicle for heavy towing, a lot of hard service, you're going to want to change them earlier. So it is something you want to keep track of. It makes a big difference as far as fuel economy. Power output. I mean it's all about basically how hot a spark you can get down there to burn that fuel. Now as you can see, we have a Champion plug that comes in the kit. And what wears out is the tip coming through the ceramic and the ground tip itself. And what you're going to do, and this is what we really recommend before you even begin changing the plugs over. Once you take them out of the box, you're going to take a plug gap tool and you're going to want to check that gap. Now in the case of these you're looking right about 53,000th. You never know packing, when they ship them from the manufacturer, they can get squashed down. You don't want to go through changing a set of spark plugs around and then find you have a misfire because one of the gaps were closed right down. You weren't getting any spark. So this is essentially the kit. And again it makes a huge difference on fuel economy. It makes a huge difference as far as power output of the engine. You may want to change them a little bit earlier if you want to be preemptive. Why wait until they wear out at 90,000 to 100,000 miles. You may want to do it a little bit earlier. Alright, so, now that we've shown you the kit we're going to give you a basic idea of how to change the plugs over on your JAG engine Land Rover and it's relatively an easy operation. It's something that shouldn't take more than a couple of hours, if that.Looks pretty good. Now we'll grab our PCV valve. And you can just as easily - we'll turn that over and you can see you have 2 rubber O rings here. Take your bare fingers and rub a little bit on there. Just the oil from your fingers will be enough to create a little abrasivity when you go to install it back in the valve cover. You twist it side to side so we don't pinch the O rings. And just set it in deep enough where it seats against the little plastic platform there. We'll grab our 2 screws. Re-install the screws. Push the harness back in place. And then we'll re-install our engine cover. And essentially you'll be going through the same step all the way around. On the driver side there is actually nothing else in your way. You can actually just move this 1 hose if you wish just to give you a little bit more room. But the plastic panel on the other side just pops off the same way. There's nothing in its way. Very easy to change over. Like I said, this can be done in a relatively short period of time. It will improve your engine performance and your fuel economy you'll notice right away. So when you're ready to change over the plugs on your JAG engine Full Size Range Rover LR3 and Sport just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an Android device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the Android device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or
contact us online. How-To Install the iLANDApp On Android Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more:checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so we're going to show you how to set up your new iLAND on an Android system. And essentially what will happen is when you get your Android tool, you're also going to get a set up sheet similar to this that's going to basically take you right through. This is an easy quick start guide. And what we'll start with is, you're going to turn your phone on. And we'll get on the screen. Now where you would go is you would go to your play store, your Google play store on your Android system. And then this will essentially put you there. It will have a search on top. And just put in iLAND diagnostics. And it will put you on this window. And we've all ready installed, but normally this would, this box on the left going to tell you install, hit that, let it do its thing. And then essentially you go back. And you will look for your icon right on your screen. So we'll hit that. We'll go back on that. And it's going to put you on the screen here. In fact let's back this up one. It's going to give you a screen that's going to essentially look like you're going to log in. But you haven't developed your registration yet. So down here, just below the log in box, you'll see sign up. We'll hit that. And then what it does now is put you on a screen. You're going to enter in your email address. This is the address that will be designated for this phone so once you enter it it becomes basically a permanent address. So we're going to do that. And we're going to go to the next screen. So you've entered your email address. The next screen you get is going to be verification. It's going to ask you to enter your received verification number which is right here. And we'll just punch that in. And then we're also going to set a password in here and it states 6 to 20 characters, doesn't say anything else about capitals or letters or numbers or whatnot. So just 6 to 20 characters will be enough for an adequate password. So now you've entered that. You're going to hit done. So the next screen now for the complete the info, this is a register this under your name, so your going to enter your first name, last name and zip code of where you live. So after entering your name and your zip code and you hit done, it's going to put you at one point it is going to tell you to pick a vehicle, but before it does, if there's any downloads, or upgrades available on this particular veh, on this particular set up, it will automatically set you up and sure enough, here we are, and we actually have a download available, so we're going to hit download. Let it do the upgrade and then we can get into picking our vehicles. Now, in case when you do finish your registration and whatnot, and there isn't a download or an upgrade available on that, at the time you'll get this window, it will just simply tell you sign up succeeded. And it will tell you to activate, welcome, to activate your dongle and you will have more functions. I'm going to hit that. Now it's going to ask for the serial number and the activation code which you will receive in the dongle box when you get your new iLAND. And this will come with your iLAND diagnostic tool. And there will be a product serial number, and then on this side the private / confidential which will be the verification number. You'll need to open up and underneath will be the verification number. And that's what this is asking for now. So we'll type in those 2 numbers. All right. So at this point now, you're going to get the screen that will ask you to choose your vehicle. Being that this unit is all ready set up for pro, it's all ready set up for all Land Rover vehicles, if you purchased your iLAND for a single vehicle. Of course now you choose your vehicle now, say either Range Rover, Discovery, whatever your vehicle is. Once you choose that it's locked in and you cannot change that. That remains constant on the vehicle. That's all you're going to have. So at this point now you've downloaded the app, you have the app, you have the vehicle choice, so now we're going back up to Bluetooth and link you up with the dongle. So when you get on your Bluetooth screen. First you're going to go to settings. You go to Bluetooth. You're going to look for available devices. You'll hit that and what it will do is a search. And then it will pop up the serial number on your dongle. And then at that point just tap that and it will pair it up. Now that we're paired, we have our app done, we can go back to our main screen. You see our iLAND and again I'm going to spell it out - it's i-l-a-n-d. There's no s in there. And go hit on the app. And basically we can now hook up to any vehicle. The first time you go into your vehicle, it's going to give you what they call workshop warnings. And these are basically just safety items that they want you to be aware off. And you'll hit accept. And then a warning using battery charger and whatnot. Just read through that. These are certain little guidelines. We'll hit accept. Please wait. And now everything is just going to load up. And there you are. Now it'll even show you if there is another version available, it will do automatic updates. So it's all ready loaded the newest updates so we can trash can the old one. We'll confirm. We'll take that out. So now we're on the latest and greatest. And you'll find that there will be updates as you use this constantly. They're always looking to improve the tool. So we'll hit confirm. And now it's going to set up the updates and get it all. Once the updates are loaded, you'll be able to get on the vehicle and be able to start your diagnostics. And that's basically all there is to it. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service using our
Kit # TRANSM600SKB on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38, with 4-speed ZF transmission; and should be performed every 30,000 miles. Kit#:TRANSM600SKB Installing Transmission Filter and Service Kit On Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004, 8 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance that a lot of people neglect on their vehicles, and that's automatic transmission service. On the Land Rover Discovery's, especially Discovery 2, your Range Rover P38, basically any vehicle across the board, over a period of time the fluid breaks down, the filter becomes restricted, and you end up losing not only shift performance, it can affect your fuel economy and it basically affects the overall drivability of the vehicle. So what we've done is put a kit together. And this is for the 4 speed ZF that was used in the Discovery 2s and the P38s. This will give you enough fluid, a new gasket, a filter, new O rings and the retainer collars for the pan and a drain plug with a new seal. And this is something you actually could do in your driveway. It's actually a relatively easy pan to drop. There's only 6 bolts. There's a drain plug. And just doing the service could do a world of good on your vehicle. So what we're going to do is show you how to install this. And basically show you how relatively easy it is to do a transmission service on this particular vehicle. We're going to do this on a 1999 Discovery 2. This will be very similar to any of the other vehicles, so follow along, I'll show you how to do it. So before we get started what I'm going to do is give you a basic layout of what you'll be getting into. We have a drain plug on the bottom. We're going to take that out first, let the system drain out. And then the only thing you have holding the pan in are 6 small bolts. You have 1 in each corner and then on each side there's 1 in the middle. Now the way they have this configured, they have a lip on the pan that goes all the way around. And on that lip is held in place by these little, I guess you could call them a block or a spacer or whatever you want to call it. But the bolt runs through it. As you can see there. Now when they've been up in place for about 17 years as in this case, they have a tendency to lock themselves in. So I would suggest is if you're a do it yourselfer, and you plan on doing this, you may want to start a week ahead of time and just shoot those bolts down about every other day with penetrating oil let the stuff work its way in. If you're a shop, definitely you still want to get in there and give them a little shock treatment, shoot them up with penetrating oil. You can take a straight punch with a small hammer and just give a wrap. Or if you have access to compressed air, with an air hammer just a quick shot right at the end of each bolt. Hopefully to break the corrosion loose. So that's essentially what you got. Be very careful, these bolts are very susceptible to breaking. It's a very small bolt that run into an aluminum housing. And when they are there for a while they will lock themselves in place. And you won't even know it. You'll spin it out and feel like the bolts turning. It just snaps right off. So if that's the case then you are going to be getting into a repair. So be very careful taking them off. Anyway, so, let's get started. We're going to take this apart. Drop this pan. And get into the filter change. So, we're at the point now, we've run it through the gears. We let our drip down to the pint where we knew we had a good level. Install the new plug. And at this point we're essentially done. We've done a transmission service. So with that new filter in place, like I said, it helps with fuel economy. It definitely adds to the life of the transmission. The fluid does break down after a while. And overall it's just going to let this transmission last a lot longer and perform better. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your D2 or your P38 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug present an overview of what is under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size L322, 2006 - 2009, with a 4.2 Supercharged engine. He'll also show you the locations of most of your fluid fill points and other items of interest. This is the same as the 4.4 naturally-aspirated engine. Doug shows you how to reposition the hood in the full upright position in order to gain better access to the systems under the hood on a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us using our live chat.
Under Hood Tour Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationAlright, so what we have here is a 2006 Full Size Range Rover. The L322. This has got the 4.2 Supercharged engine. The locations of most of your fluids and your items of interest under the hood are going to be basically the same whether you have the 4.2 Supercharged or the 4.4 naturally aspirated. So essentially what we're going to do is start in the back passenger corner. You have the battery box. And you'll find the battery is tucked in there pretty good. And these are a good size battery. And we'll show you a little trick in a little while on how you can reposition the hood so you can have easier access to items in the back. Next is going to be your cool box. In here is going to be most of your major modules. Your PCM, transmission control module, transfer case module. And this actually has a cooling fan similar to what you have on your PC to keep your box down at a certain temperature. This is actually in a way climate controlled to keep the moisture level and condensation and all that down from inside the box. Then you have your coolant overflow reservoir with the bleeder cap. This is where you're going to watch your coolant levels. On the side, on this side where I am looking down there is actually a level stripe on the tank so that you can watch and maintain your coolant level. This is just a crossover tube for your air conditioning. This is your power steering fluid. And you essentially have the same thing. You have a level marker towards the front, but with a flashlight you can actually get a better idea. Always check this with a flashlight and check your level. And it also gives you a better idea on the condition of your fluid. Should the fluid turn a dark color, a dark black or whatever, this can be flushed and refreshed with fresh fluid. And you should do it. Just like any petroleum based fluid it should be done on a regular basis. Your washer fluid with the vent. Your air filter box. Your oil level dip stick. Now you'll notice an O ring on here. These systems have a negative pressure system inside the crank case to keep the crank case ventilated. So it's actually important on these O rings on both the filler cap and the dip stick stay maintained. This is your ABS control module, both the hydraulic and electronic. Your lines. You'll see these 2 large caps on both sides which are just simply covers on for the top of your air suspension struts. And then in the rear compartment is going to be your brake master cylinder, which also has a level marker on it. So these are all your points that you'll want to check on a regular basis. You always want to check your fluids so in case you pick up a leak or something you have an idea of what youre losing. Now, what we'll do is we'll show you how to access and remove this engine cover. You'll notice that the back quarter of it disappears underneath this panel, and so do the 2 rear screws that hold it down. This upper plenum, which is part of the heating system and also contains the pollen filter, which on another video we'll show you how to replace. You can remove this with just simply removing 2 bolts and this upper weather strip. And we're going to show you how. This simply pulls up and removes right off of a pinch well.Now we just bring this straight up. And you'll see this thin tab right here. I'll swing it out of the way so you get a better view of that. Just a slight tab with a hole in it. You're just going to swing that down. The hole lines up with this pin that's built into the hinge. And then just let it relax. Now the hood is almost in a full straight up vertical. Your cover and your plenum is out of the way. And this gives you very easy access to the top of the engine. So, that's basically our tour. We're going to show you in other videos how to change the different filters and other maintenance items on this. So, feel free to look through the other videos for any ideas or any information you need to work on your Full Size Range Rover.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, strip down the front engine compartment and complete the timing chain and related components on a Range Rover Sport 2011 (non-supercharged). This service is not recommended for the do-it-yourselfer, and will give you a new appreciation for your Land Rover tech. The job requires special tools (covered in the video) and in-depth knowledge of the Range Rover. The genuine Timing Chain Kit #
TCK5030 provides all the components you need for a complete timing chain and timing component overhaul on an LR4, Range Rover Full Size or Range Rover Sport (see years for exact fitment.) Includes 3 chains, guides, shoes and related parts for a complete replacement and overhaul. The specialty tools needed for this job are available as related items with kit # TCK5030 on our website. Gareth will also address changing out the water pump and thermostat, and camshaft sprockets, which is part of tearing down to access timing chain and /or recommended wear replacements. Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Hi I'm Gareth here's the timing chain kit that we used on the engine the table you see here is the basic procedure to do the job anyway a lot of the components on the table here are not part of the kit the main part of the kit is the timing chains shoes guides right here in the center section of the table a few of the other components of serviceable components that I decided a good replacements while are you doing the job they're all where components are the components more serious wear out and have issues are the v BTS here and here exhaust and intake the other tools are necessity components you have to use to remove parts or tighten or secure components on the engine rather than the word so saying before these are some of the basic tools you absolutely have to have to do the job with this tool is for holding the front dampener the crankshaft dampener and removing the crank pulley bolt these go together as part of a kit it's a 24 millimeter socket it's actually a 3/4 Drive so be prepared for that so that's for holding the crank pulley bolt this tool kit part of the kit is for removing the damper on the front of the engine the front pulley effectively this is the timing toolkit which is have it calls the cam locks the camshaft or turning tool the crankshaft flywheel locking tool and another locking tool for the flywheel over here we have the slide hammer for removing the fuel injectors are very needed tool you're not gonna get the injectors out without this this tool is the fuel injector seal calibration tool and the install at all four is sizing and installing the nylon seals here that hold the injectors well the seals on the tools this job is should only really be covered and carried out by a professional auto technician like this today we're gonna do a replacement timing chain kit on this 2011 Range Rover Sport non supercharged the timing chain kit is a TCK 50 30 we're gonna start off with the basics of taking off the engine covers the radiator shroud the radiator fan all the air intake pipes first we're gonna start with taking off the engine harmonic cover basic just a nice quick tug to pull it off the bass stops and slide out which removes the cover next we're gonna remove the air intakes here and left and right so we can access the front to remove the cooling system shroud from the fan and the radiator remove the pipes the intake pipes gentle tug takes it off the airbox off of the main intake and we're gonna loosen the hose clamp that holds the main air intake from the intake plenum removal of the main engine breather here from removal of the clamp that holds it onto the intake plenum and the breather pipe here by squeezing the two sides and pulling firmly to remove it off the front then a small wiggle should pull the whole assembly out giving full access to the front next is removal at the top fan shroud so we can access the fan for removal there is a clip on both sides tucked underneath here the tilt to the side freeze it and on this side on driver side the press to the side again be careful holding full access to the fan next we want to disconnect the fan electrical connector gentle tug right out it slides right out on these slots a press on the clip and a nut foam tug hold the connector apart next is to loosen off the main nut that holds the fan to the front of the engine so once the fan has been loosened it can be spun off non supercharged cars have a right-hand thread to loosen supercharged cars left-hand thread to loosen this is non supercharged so we're doing it unloosen in the clockwise direction which would normally be tightening so once it's loose it's just nice from the radiator shroud which of course then gives us more access to everything we need to get to at the front of the engine next job is to remove the two belts from the front of the engine the first belt is driving is driving the viscous fan pulley from the crankshaft the second one is the primary belt which drives all the ancillaries which has the tensioner here which will put a tool in here to remove this one we'll undo the three bolts and then remove the pulley off bringing the belt with it so to remove this pulley I undid the three bolts and gave it a gentle tap with a copper hammer right on the edge to shock it loose and that will bring the pulley off of the hub and that will give us the room to remove the belt and the pulley in one next job is to remove the tension off the main tensioner from the primary belt by putting a ratchet or a breaker bar into this slot here relieve the tension off of the belt take the belt off of the tough pulley here relieve the tension back off of the tensioner then we're going to remove this main assembly here this bracket as it's got a roller behind it attached to it which holds the primary belt on also so the tension is quite tight we're going to need a good bit of leverage and a nice good strong hole to remove the tension and then to remove the belt I'm gonna try and pull it off at the top pulley and let the tension go all the way back the belt is actually loose but trapped behind the police next job is to remove this bracket here which is the support bearing area for the viscous fan unit now we can remove the bracket with the pulley on it that also rolls the belt around next I'm going to remove the tensioner bolt here and pull the tensioner off so it should give us more clear access to remove the whole belt from the front of the engine one main bolt that's the whole tensioner off and gives us full access to remove the belt at this point now we have it the belt is now free and can be removed from the front of the car as we're doing this job which is going to be timing chain replacement and the guides and timing chain tensioners and shoes I've also noticed that the vehicle has a little bit of a coolant leak we can see the coolant down here and it appears to be coming from the manifold area where the water pump mounts to the front of the engine so while we're in there we're going to replace the water pump at the same time the next job in the procedure is to drain some coolant out so we can remove the radiator top hose the thermostat assembly and the lower hose so we can gain access to the right side cover that covers the timing gears so to remove the thermostat we have to access the retaining screw down on the side of the cylinder had to do that I'm going to pull out the airbox will give me a straighter more direct access removal of the push plug that holds the wiring harness to the airbox and then a quick squeeze of the connector pulls the connector clean off and took it out the way over there a gentle tug that has now given me clear visibility and access to the retaining screw right there to undo so we can free off the thermostat assembly I'm going to undo the clamp here here and here and then remove the thermostat from the vehicle so I can then get access to the main timing cover at the front of the engine so after removing the screw it's left the thermostat free and loose I'm gonna pull the thermostat off the main water pipe manifold at the top here and off of the water pump housing I'm gonna disconnect this quick connector so we can pull the whole assembly out and gives us more access in room so for removal of the thermostat assembly normally we've been pulling this clip and pulling it clean out of the slot of the lower section of the hose however it seemed a little bit tight and seized and I didn't want to damage it so actually undid the main clamp off the lower radiator hose and the bypass hose here so I could access it a little easier and pull it out as an assembly and separate it afterwards at this point we're making a conscious decision to replace the thermostat assembly as a service component we already know that the water pumps leaking it would be good practice to replace the thermostat also at this time so I've removed this little bypass hose from the water pump so not to break it no one do the smaller hose here I'm gonna take it off at the top of the reservoir and the radiator so it gives us good play room nothing gets broken and everything stays intact so I've removed the pipes from the fittings on the right on the engine from the reservoir and on the radiator we'll pop it to one side so it doesn't get damaged and we can reinstall it afterwards I'm going to remove this other hose here from the water pump area which will open up a lot more and then we're gonna start on doing electrical connectors from the front of the engine so we can access all the timing covers properly then we're going to start and access the crank pulley and remove the front crank pulley from the front of the engine and probably the water pump as well so we remove the serpentine belts from the engine the tensioner we move the power steering pump pulley off of the power steering pump these can be a little bit tight there are gets to be rust corrosion build up on the edge of the flange here I took it off I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight and scraped away a lot of the loose rust and then pried it off it did come off quite clearly and easily the next job was to remove the timing covers from the front of the engine to inspect and test the timing very ATIS to see if they turn smoothly or not this one I took off already as you can see they literally have several screws that hold them on and then a gentle pry against the Tang here and here will pull it off and it will literally pop right off same on the other side I took the screws off of this side already this is just a little bit of a wiggle to pull off and take out those will be refitted with fresh new sealant on them the next job we've established is we are actually going to replace the timing gear variators here here and over on the passenger side here and here however to do that job we need to remove the valve covers which includes of course removing the fuel injectors spark plugs and coils so I'm going to spend some time on removing the valve covers injectors and we'll be taking more video of that at the time when I get further into that part of the job okay we're gonna remove the breather pipe what looks like the purge line disconnect it here I'm going to undo the wiring harness for the ignition coils and then gain access to the injector rail fuel ignition coils off next a little bit of a tight fit here and here but these two are quite straightforward and easy injector rail out unfortunately the injectors are stuck in and we've got to pull them out there is a special tool for that job a slight hammer saw for the injector removal after the cylinder heads and of course after removing them from the saw and adds when they're reinstalled they have to be put back in with you tap on rings and seals and clips these are the injectors the 5.0 litre engine uses it's a direct injection they seat directly into the sense of the cylinder head and they have to be removed with a slide hammer this is the slide hammer here there are two cuts at the end of the slide hammer that go over the injector somewhat like this to set up a little bit color goes down that's in the cylinder head and some good good long swipes to try and pull it out of the cylinder head they are in there pretty tight because of carbon buildup on the end of the injector and the teflon rings I've also soaked mmm the injectors down with a little PB Blaster you can use wd-40 it does help loosen up and soften up any carbon that might be down there and I've got two more to take out on this side I've already removed the two from ones which were easier to access so that's the next step very dirty but as you can see they're extremely tight in there and you quite a bit of work to pull out appears to be a bit cleaner but still need to clean him all right the next part of the job is to undo the bolts ten millimeter headed ones that go around the valve cover and on the inside section remove those and then pull off this side valve cover we're going to do exactly the same procedure for the right hand side left hand depending on how you're looking at the vehicle taking injectors out coils out and then the valve cover there we go looks easy enough but in there tight okay so now we have the valve cover off the left-hand side driver-side we have had full access to the cams so we can lock the cam if we need to with the new cam locks in the specialty tools we have full access to the timing chain and the variator x' that we're going to be replacing we're gonna time it up lock everything up pull the timing chains off but first I will be starting on the other side valve cover again that's the same removal process little time-consuming but same process pull everything out coils injectors ejector rail valve cover off so next step is to remove the radiator and the AC condenser so we can gain good access and vision to the front of the motor the lower section when we get the front pulley off and for when we time up and put on the new variators and timing chain with the radiator and condenser removed the next step is what I would like to do is remove the front pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the lower timing cover there cams are timed up in the safe position there is a couple of timing marks to note on the front there's a little notch right here on the variator but most importantly at the back of the cylinder head on the cams I don't know whether we can get this in but the slots are normally horizontal and you can perhaps just make out a little painted square section at the lower edge of the cam shaft that is to be at the bottom this is all of course in the workshop manual as well this one's a little bit fainter but you can see just at the bottom of the cam a little couple of numbers and a little painted yellow square box they go to the lower edge when timing it up it's the same on all four cams so the cams are timed up in the safe position to remove the chains the next job is I'm gonna send the car up put the crank lock into position so I can break free the front crank pulley and do pulley removal so here we are under the vehicle I'm going to lock up the crankshaft with the timing plug tool which goes in where the crank sensor goes here on the left side of the engine driver's side you take the crank sensor out and put in the timing tool it's already in there located it can be a bit fussy to get into the right place a little bit of wiggling of the crank backwards and forwards but it does go in nice and firmly the next thing is I'm gonna remove the starter motor out of the engine and I'm gonna install this lock tool into the flywheel which holds everything nice and tight so when we put on all the pressure on the front crank pulley bolt we can actually remove it without turning any of the crank and messing up any of the timing so that's the next step I'm going to start pulling the starter motor out so I can pop this in its in its place and hold the flywheel solid so I like to crank up with the locating pin into the reluctor ring I also put in the special tool that comes in the kit that we sell that goes in where the starter motor goes and it locks into the toothed flywheel you have to find a couple of new pieces of hardware some new nuts and bolts to through bolt it into place and make sure it is locked in between the teeth when I put it in initially I noticed that I hadn't locked it in between the teeth after I used a mirror to inspect had to realign it there is a bit of free play in the plate and the locking pin that goes into the teeth so you do have to make sure you get it between the teeth and not next to the teeth it's all locked up get the cams can't turn the engine can't turn I've put on the special tool on the front pulley you do have to use a jack stand to lock the actual arm of the holding tool I've actually used a piece of 2x4 underneath there as well because I don't have enough room or length on the actual jack stand to hold the locking tool the holding tool in place now the engine can't turn or anything there's a special socket that goes in to hold and undo the bolt it's actually a three-quarter drive I actually bought an adapter a free quarter to half-inch and you will definitely need a nice long breaker bar to actually break the ball loose it's extremely tight I actually broke it loose a few minutes ago but it goes in nicely locks on the bolt like I said I broke it loose a short while ago and it's probably gonna take two good strong pulse to break it loose this is a left-hand thread to loosen it's worth looking into if it has like 12.2 marker on it it's a left-hand thread if it's a 10.6 it's a right thread to undo but definitely worth checking and taking the time to clean the head of the bolt and inspect with the mirror to see which thread it is so now I'm going to undo the holding tool and take it off the pulley and assemble the tool that actually pulls pulley off and the hub assembly from the crankshaft it's got a flanged washer on it that's why it won't come out any further here's the bolt you can see clearly it's a left-handed thread bolt and on the end it says 12 which denotes left-hand thread and recollect from the workshop manual if it's got a 10 it's a right hand thread to undo so now that's out I can take out the other four bolts and screw in the adapter for the power so we can actually take off the hub assemblies on it so the four bolts that left holding the police to the remain to the hub assembly are actually locked on you can see the three I've already taken out this blue loctite on them they're exceptionally tight so when you do come to take them off because there are talks had there h ly a 50 I'm making sure that right now I'm using a 3/8 drive extended ratchet we do come loose so the next procedure is to move the crankshaft pulley dampener assembly it's only really possible with the actual factory tool I have heard of people using an aftermarket tool but you have to be careful not to damage the threads inside the crankshaft these have a left hand thread so we actually went out and purchased the tool specific for the job we will be carrying the kit in the future which will have the hub the bearing and the bar that screws into the crankshaft with the left hand thread I have it assembled right now there are two different length bolts one for removal of the pulley and one for reinstallation so there will be two sets of bolts the kit will also be comprised of the holding tool which is a separate item from the removal tool of the pulley this literally just holds the pulley and the engine still while you undo the crankshaft bolt okay so here we have the crankshaft dampener assembly puller an installer it does both there are people I have heard who bought aftermarket generic pullers say they can get them up with that however this just eliminates any possibility of any damage happening to the pulley or to the engine or the crankshaft the kit comprises of the main shaft assembly which is all separated in the care to bear in mind it comes one end is of left hand thread that goes into the crankshaft and the other is the threaded bar the actual puller installer sits on as you can see there's two bearing assemblies two different sizes one for each side to remove the pulley from the crankshaft the shaft is screwed in first into the crank then you install the hub assembly the bearing assembly which goes I always put the bearing in first it goes into the damper and recesses all the way as far in as you can get it then the other bearing goes on and put in for removal the hub goes this way around over the top and is screwed in the hub with four bolts no four corners screwed down tight and then removing hold the main center butter shaft with one wrench and undo with the other one that pulls the whole assembly off to reinstall the bearings come out to reinstall the hub is actually screwed directly to the front flange of the damper in the second set of bolts which are shorter screwed in all the way down the bearing seats screwed in and then the shaft screwed into the crank and then screwed the opposite way to push it back on to the crank until it's fully home so with the pulley assembly the extractor assembly installed hold the bar with one wrench and undo with the other you may see it's slowly pulling off a little bit time-consuming but the right way to do the job it is on quite tight I can feel it it is coming away okay so the pulley is now loose on the shaft the main shaft that screws into the crank I will probably try and unscrew the whole assembly so we can take it off in one piece bearing in mind is the left hand thread to undo and it's quite a long threaded bar so now we have the whole assembly off it is a tight fit on the crankshaft I've heard of them being extremely tight I believe this one probably came off quite easily and then the next job is to remove the front timing cover from the engine to gain full access to the lower timing area now we have it front cover off pretty straightforward may want to suggest a toil crank seal replacement this one looks to be distorted it's flat around the bottom edge here and up on the top it probably is just the outer dust seal however I don't want to take any risks and half in to go back in there so it'll probably get replaced I already test fitted the cam lock tool to this side that we're going to take the chains off of and the variators and the guides I did the other side the passenger side already the cam tools locked in holding the cams in time the variator Zaroff one thing I did note is that the screws in the intake camshaft were very sludgy and dirty so I'm gonna make sure I clean everything out nice and clean the guides are off the chains are off the tension is off I'm gonna follow that same procedure for this side here this side seems to be locked in place pretty well this is the cam lock tool the exhaust side the intake side it the timings spot-on and this should actually locate in the slots at the back of the camshaft so the camera is back in and locked the cams are locked in the time to position the cam locked all at the back there can be a little awkward of fiddly to fiddle around with because of the bulkhead firewall here you have to get the twist wingnut close to be lined up so it's nice and locked in there next job is I'm going to loosen off the variator screws and pull the variators off place them out of the way they are getting replaced so we will side with a new chain guides and tensioner tensioner is off this is the old style it's gonna get the new style put on the change and that's it the change tensioners role guides off we're now ready to clean up a little bit and start putting the new very acres back on the change back in the guides etc and try and get this thing back together solid so here we are I've built up the driver side of the timing chains bolted in first the first static chain guide the plastic nylon one then I put in the unbolted in the metal one that has the tensioner running against it which is right here the pen is still in it we don't remove the pen until we're ready to set the timing as you can see the exhaust variator is has a little notch at the top here where the timing chain of the mark on the timing chain has to align with the intake has a mark notch on the backside of it here where the paint mark on the chain is meant to align with there should be a little bit of free play in each variator there's a fraction less in this one so when we actually preload the variator x' and set pull the pin on the timing chain tensioner everything the chain tension is set properly also in the kit comes a new oil feed tube pipe here I already replace that but you have to do it beforehand as you can see it feeds the bat gear drive I put our new thrust washers on the crankshaft gear front and rear and I'm gonna build up this side on the left side on the dry passenger side I already check the timing on the balance shaft which is correct so we have both sides built up now the timing variators are on on the left side on the passenger side the timing marks being here I don't know whether we can get that one in there right here but below there's a yellow mark on the chain which lines up and again down here which lines up with an a' marker on the guide on the plastic guide right here now timing up the engine you do have to make sure that the chain actually locate on the crank gear I noticed when I was putting the variator Zahn it had slept off and it seems like it's very easy for it to slip off without noticing and of course note after that I had to take the variators off again relocate it re time it then I put on the tensioner tells you to apply a pressure to the back of the chain guide and then pull the pen and when you pull the pin you do hear a positive loud click of the actual piston coming out and extending and hitting the guide and the tension going on the chain same on both sides of course right and left after that procedure we use this tool here to tension the variators a bit of a strange shape however driver-side you take the screw out of the oil suction tube and pull it forward slightly you roll the tool in behind the gear you locate the pen into the timing gear T which locks it into place we have a torque wrench set to 23 foot pounds which is 32 Newton meters you pull and hold and keep the tension on and tighten up the three screws on the variator on both very ATIS which pre-load the variator x' to there set this side comes out and on the driver side you only tension from the intake and then on the passenger side you tension from the exhaust tool goes in you lock it in I locked it in as far forward as I could because as you can see there's not much room between here and the body of the vehicle the workshop manual does tell you to let undo the engine mounts and Jack the engine up if you're doing it in the car I found that I moved it far enough and kept the pressure on just at this point but that's not that that might not be the norm for all car engines so all the timing gear is Sat bass valve timing your set tension on the variator is set so the next job is to put the crank pulley bolt in the end of the crank rotate the engine over to rotations and recheck the timing however before that I have to remove the cam locks from the back of each cylinder head one two and remove the crank locking tool from the flywheel and from the reluctor wheel so that's going to take me a few minutes to do I'll sort that out and rotate the engine over twice and recheck my timing okay so all the timing is all set up and I have taken the crank locks out and the cam locks are out at this time we're going to rotate the crankshaft two turns for one turn of the cam and recheck the timing and we should be close to putting back in the cam locks and there we go two turns there's one coming up on two okay so we're putting the car the engine back together the timing has all been set I did actually get it off by a fraction so I had to reset it again I found that actually putting in the cam locks back in they come with these wing nuts but because the bulkhead here on the firewall interferes with the wing nut I actually used a 8 125 bolt about two and a half inches long and it does the same job everything is all perfectly turned up now using these cam locks but like I say it's a tight fit on this driver side so I put a bolt in works just as well to continue on we're gonna put the front timing cover back on back into place it has a neoprene seal on it right the way around and then we'll put the crank pulley back on which has to be pressed back on using the tool that we use to remove it with at that point we're gonna build up the front put the valve covers back on front covers back on and put all the answer is back on we'll be doing a step-by-step probably on refit on a few of the components a lot of it is just reverse of removal of course and we'll be putting a new water pump back on the engine as well so the tool is now bottomed out the pulleys on as far as it can go with me just swing it on the pulley sorry on the pressed or I'm gonna remove the press tool from it remembering clockwise to unscrew I'm gonna check with a mirror just to make sure it is fully home and I can even see the key and whether you can see that there key all the way at the bottom at the six o'clock position we still have the crank locked with the locking pin in the flywheel which is gonna stay there until I actually tighten up the front pulley bolt which will add a bit of extra locking we also have to put on the new hub lock for the front dampener put it to the opposite side as we did to undo so we can actually swing on it it takes 200 Newton metres of torque and then 3/4 of a turn it is a stretch bolt so we're reinstalling the front upper timing covers they can be installed with the solenoids in I'm gonna put a thin bead of sealant around this surface here I already put the driver side on they go on very easily but you do have to make sure the mating surfaces are nice and clean and free from the old RTV sealant I've scraped it all off trying not to damage the mating surface the sealant will take up a certain amount of scratches but you can't go Jim of course after that we're gonna install the valve covers I've already put on new seals new gaskets and the bolts back in to help locate the gasket and hold it in place while we try and reinstall it without losing the gasket nice thin bead of sealant okay that's the front cam covers on next job is to put the valve covers on just a couple to hold it in place just checking to make sure the Halfmoon seal at the back on that valve cover is seated in its right place so the harmonic dampener pulley from crank pulley is back installed I pressed it on ivory mounted the dampener holding tool that just holds everything static while you talk tighten it the torque setting initially it's 200 Newton meters and then a 3/4 turn - which is for the torture yield stretch bolt so now I pre turned it but we can feel it there's the 200 Newton meters remove the torque wrench then they want a 3/4 of a turn on the talk to yield balls I've fortunately already tightened it but of course you need a good length break a bar to get that leverage it is quite tight at that point not that I needed two people but I had an assistant help me just makes life a little easier after that stun all that holding tool can be removed the lock pin out of the flywheel can be removed and then I'm gonna start on putting the rest of the motor back together putting fuel injectors in coils back in reconnecting fuel lines etc etc radiator back in of course and then at the end I will reiterate and go over everything again there's no real need to get into any detail of really installing all the components because basic knowledge is that all the components go back on as they were removed I mean I'm sure most of the shops that are going to be continuing to do this sort of job no matter the water pump and replace the thermostat so we focus mainly on the timing chain care and the components that were associated to it so when you're ready for a challenge after replacing this timing chain kit on a 5.0 engine give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our knowledgeable sales reps and they will say well pretty much with all the tooling and all components they need to the job or you can visit our website at roverparts.com.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit #
LR097165GK, which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to diagnose, access and replace Transmission Valve Body Harness with Temperature Sensor on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322) with BMW engine and ZF 5-speed transmission. The warning light on the instrument cluster will indicate: "Transmission Fluid Temperature Excessive." The vehicle also goes into Limp Mode--which is 3rd gear to cool the transmission down so you can get to a shop for repair. In actuality, the fault isn't the transmission, but the temperature sensor, which is built into the wiring harness, that lives in the transmission. To confirm this is the repair you need to make, your diagnostics tool will display "Gearbox Oil Temperature Sensor Fault." This replacement repair will resolve the problem. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to our live chat.
Part #: YMD001500G Diagnostics and Replacement of Transmission Valve Body Harness With Temperature Sensor on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322)Choosing The Right Diagnostic System for Your Land Rover A Comparison of 3 Diagnostic Systems, 2003 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a concern that shows up now and then on these 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rovers. This is the L322 with the BMW engine and the ZF 5 speed transmission. And what occurs is you'll be going down the road and you'll suddenly get a warning on your instrument cluster stating transmission fluid temperature excessive. Also what will happen is the vehicle will go into Limp In mode, and all you'll have is 3rd gear. And that's essentially there to help cool your transmission down and to get you where you want to go. When in actuality there isn't a fault in the transmission, but it's a fault in the little temperature sensor that's built into the wiring harness inside the transmission. Now it is a replaceable harness. And what we're going to do is, next step we're going to show you basically how you can diagnose it using any one of the little Land Rover diagnostic tools that we have. And essentially what it breaks down to is this little harness that is installed internally in the transmission, you do have to drop the oil pan to get to it. So what I would recommend is, obviously if you're going to be changing this, you're also going to need 5 quarts of ZF fluid, because you're going to have to top the system back off when you put the pan back on. So, anyway, so what we're going to do is we're going to plug in the I930. We're going to show you the code that will probably, or should occur when you do a diagnostic. And then a way of looking just to double check that it is in fact the sensor that failed and not an internal issue causing high temperature. Be careful working around it. Not only you don't want to touch it, you don't want to hit the hose of your tool against that tool because it will melt right through it. So as I showed you, we've basically replaced the harness. We've topped off all the new fluid. We capped everything up. We've checked for leaks. And then we'll do a quick road test. We want to make sure to make sure that we've gotten any air that may have gotten into the transmission is out of it before it goes back to your customer or you take it out for a ride. So when that little warning light pops up and says that you have a gear box oil temperature overheating and you can verify it with a diagnostic tool, we've shown you how to replace it. When you're ready to do so, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an iOS device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the iOS device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or
contact us online. How-To Install the iLANDApp On iOS Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more: checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so let's begin. I'm going to show you how to load up your iLAND program onto your iphone or your ipad. You're going to go to app store. And when you go to app store, at the top when you search you're going to search for iLAND diagnostics. And that's i-l-a-n-d, no s. Once you get on iLAND diagnostics, you'll hit install and you're going to install the app on your phone. So, now you've downloaded your app, you'll find your icon on your main screen, on your home screen. So we'll hit that. So now we're going to go through registration process. Looks like a log in screen, but you'll see here in the lower left sign up. Hit that. And now you're going to feed the information. Of course it will say USA if you're in the United States. And then essentially what you're going to do at this point, you're going to enter your email address and then it's going to ask you to do it twice to confirm the correct email.All right, so we're essentially ready to do the next step will obviously the pairing. So we're going to pair up the phone now with the dongle so that once the two are connected, you'll have full use of your iLAND. So what essentially you're going to go to your Bluetooth settings. All right, go to settings, pull up Bluetooth, make sure Bluetooth is on. And then when you do a scan, the serial number for your unit is going to appear on your screen. Simply connect to it. Once you've done that, you're all set. So we'll get out of settings. We'll go back to our main screen. Let's hit iLAND. And now immediately all our vehicles come up. So if you're using an individual, you're just going to hit that, say you set yours up for a Range Rover, hit Range Rover and that's going to put you on the screen that's going to allow you to do all your diagnostics. And that we'll cover further in other vehicles. For now we want to show you how to do your initial set ups so you can get started using the iLAND. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will replace the air suspension with our
coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This kit also fits and is the same install process for the Land Rover LR3. Doug will then go over the installation of the EAS Re-flash module to remove dashboard codes. Kit#: L319SRK-OMEHL Install Coil Spring Suspension Kit Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works for LR3) Hi I'm Doug. I'm the tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about a coil spring replacement kit that we have for the LR3's that is designed for LR3's now that every body's been adding steel bumpers and roof racks and additional weight to them that they find the original suspension really isn't designed for it. Or if you switch the coils and get the regular coil springs they're not heavy enough to hold the vehicle up. At least they're not going to give you the proper ride. So, what we have is a heavy duty set, which is our L319SRK-OMEHL. The OME representing Old Man Emu coil springs. These are a good heavy duty spring. And what these will do is unloaded it will actually raise the vehicle about 2 inches above its normal ride height. And give you a much higher loading capacity. Very nice kit, and essentially what you're going to get is 2 of these for the front. You can see by the size of the coils these are pretty massive. And these are definitely designed for heavy duty use. And the other would be 2 of the rears. And you can see even heavier yet. With a good shock absorber built in and a protective boot. You'll also get new nuts for the top of these where they install into the frame. So it's nice to have new hardware. And then you'll also get a reflash unit. So if you're converting over from the air suspension to the coil springs, so that you don't have all the warning lights and everything coming on. And basically works its way around the control module so you won't get all the lights and buzzers and everything else. So, that's essentially the kit, and the installation is pretty much the same as our other coil spring kits. But we're going to give you a little rundown and show you how to install it. All right, so, we're going to begin by doing the fronts. And you'll see that we've all ready taken the engine shield off. And that's just nothing more than the 4 ten millimeter nuts and the oil filler cap and that comes right out. The reason we're doing that is because we're going to access the inner nut on the 2 fronts from the top as opposed to trying to get at it from underneath. If you look at it from underneath you'll see it's almost impossible to get at.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Five
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Five of our video how-to series, as he installs front (
TF838) and rear ( TF839) differential guards on our project D2. Doug will discuss the importance of adding protection to your front and rear differentials if you intend on using your D2 for off-road. When off-roading, these guards will add an extra layer of protection to your vehicle's underside. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat. Outfitting a Land Rover Discovery Series II for Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Five: Installing Front & Rear Differential Guards (TF838 &TF839)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And as we continue on with Project D2, we're on to the next step. And what we have next in line is going to be the pair of differential guards, the front and rear diffs. Something that a lot of the guys overlook, but should you ever put a rock though your differential case and you want to be able to make it home, these would be advised to go that route. These will protect the differentials. They are cast metal so they can be dented. They can be punctured so to speak if you catch a good rock. So these are actually a good add on to add to your vehicle. We're trying to turn this into a really high level off-road vehicle, these will definitely assist in doing that. So what we have here is the front guard which is Terrafirma. This is the TF838. This comes with the bracket, 1 extra mounting bracket and your hardware. We have the rear kit, the TF839. Again with your guard, your attachment bracket and the hardware you need to attach that. The instructions are fairly simple. They do come with the kits. But we're going to show you basically how to install them right on our Project D2. Alright. Just to show you a test fit. You put the front guard over, we're going to slide that over in place. Now some vehicles may have a guard that loops around this back drag link, right at the back of the diff. And some don't. Now in this case this one does not. But there are 2 pre-drilled tap holes at the very end of the differential for that bracket. And we're going to use those 2 holes for the attachment in the back on the bottom. Now if it does not have that bracket, there's a good chance that those holes, and we're going to come around and we're going to show you those in just a second, id they're filled with mud or dirt or whatnot, you want to tap those out so that we have a nice clean thread when we go to put it in. The other thing you're going to want to do, and it even mentions it in the instructions, if you test slide this. Essentially you're going to be looking at how this bracket attaches to the back of this cover, and then these 2 holes will automatically line up with 2 top bolts in the back side of the diff. You're going to take those bolts out and then this gets bolted back in its place. So if you're not sure which 2 to take off, you can just test fit the bracket towards the back, it's going to line up with the 2. Those are the 2 you're going to remove and it's even listed in the instructions. Now just quickly too, I'm going to mention, they actually give you a list of tools required, before you go to install it. So it would be a good idea to dig these tools out and have these ready for you before you install. You have a 9/16th deep socket or spanner wrench, you can use either. 15 millimeter socket. And you can do that in either half inch or 3/8th inch drive. A 13 millimeter wrench. A ratchet for your socket. Again, 3/8th or half inch. And then a 6 to 12 inch extension. Those tools will easily install this cover. It's just a matter of a few bolts. Now on some of these vehicles you're going to have a U shaped bracket that wraps around this drag link and they're going to be bolted through to these 2 holes right here. You can see that this vehicle did not come equipped with it, and sure enough, the holes have gotten dirt and mud packed up inside there. You don't want to run the bolts for the new bracket up in there, so you're just simply going to take a chaser, and you can get a socket that fits the backside. That makes it a little bit easier. And you're just basically going to run it up in there and you're going to want to clean that mud out of there. Doesn't even hurt to spray a little bit of penetrating lube in there, and as that drips out it's going to take a lot of the dirt and garbage that's built up in there out. You may have to run it a couple times in there until you don't really feel much grit as you run through there. I can actually see it fall out of the hole as I run this in. And it goes in fairly easy because we're just dealing with a little bit of dirt. Alright. Going to shoot a little penetrating oil in there and the essentially all we need to do with this is we're going to take the 2 top bolts out. We're going to line up the bracket. We're going to see that we are basically dealing with there's a bolt that if you're facing the back of the differential you have a bolt at say 11:30 and another bolt at 1 o'clock. You're going to take those 2 out. Insert your bracket. Put your main bracket on. Run the 2 bolts. You're basically done. Alright, so, before we tighten everything up and this it what I wanted to explain, put the shields on, don't go tightening everything first thing. I put to 2 bolts on, lock them on. You want to basically get all the bolts started. You have the 2 bolts here in the back. The threads have been cleaned out. They're started. You have the bolt and the flat washer. And then up top, where the small accessory bracket bolts on, we've got the 2 bolts in the diff back in place. Couple threads started there. And then we've got the 2 nuts and bolts that hold the accessory bracket onto the guard itself. Now with everything being loose, we've got everything started. Now we can just tighten it all up and you're going to be in and then we're going to do the rear as well. Alright, so we're going to do the rear, and essentially what I'm going to do is hang it in place because the application is the same as the front. You've got 2 bolts down here at the very bottom of the differential case. These 2 bolts actually hold an anti-vibration weight on here. Some vehicles may have it, some may not. But if you have it, you run the 2 bolts out we're going to be starting with clean thread so it shouldn't be a problem there. And again the shield wraps around. You have a small add-on bracket on top and you're going to run those are going to line up with 2 top bolts on the differential, you're going to run the 2 nuts and bolts from the bracket to the add-on bracket. And essentially tighten everything down exactly like we did with the front. So I'll set everything in place, and we'll give you a look at it before we tighten everything up. So here we are with the back plate in place. As I said it's the same application as the front. You just have these 2 nuts and bolts that hold the 2 brackets together. You have the front of the small bracket being held by 2 bolts in the front of the pumpkin. And then on the bottom what we've done is omit that heavy weight that's back there and installed the bottom of this plate in place of that weight. As I said because that bolts already in there, you didn't have to go through the tap and die and all that. We blew penetrating oil and it ran right in. So you have a good solid protection there. Plus they give you access holes. So if you need to do a drain, which your drain plug is right here, and your fill plug here, you can still do maintenance without having to take the cover back off, which is a definite plus. So when you're ready to upgrade, put diff guards on your D2, and as again, follow along with us as we go along with Project D2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. all right so you've seen us tear this down now we're gonna go over the things that we need to do before we start assembling the heads as you can see we have everything here and let's start putting it together so now we're at the point now we want to assemble the heads before we set them up on the block so just for a breakdown this is basically what you're gonna be assembling here we'll start with the head assembly itself the things you want to check obviously are for a clean straight surface for the valve cover for the exhaust and then most importantly for the head to block connection and you can see we have this all cleaned up now what we did too is we had put a straight edge on this and we can and you can actually get them out of an any automotive center someone will even loan them to you but these straight edges are accurate to within a half a thousandth of an inch and you want to do a crisscross pattern and then a straight up pattern and you want to basically look for any spots where you could see light if you hold a flashlight behind it and what that does it tells you that at that point then the head would need to be reground this one was in good shape and the bottom line is you don't want to have to have it surfaced if you don't need to reason being is if it had already been surfaced and was with inspection you have it cut again when you cut these and you cut too much off of them it because of the V pattern on the block it draws the heads closer together so what happens then is you may be able to give all the heads down but when you put the lower intake manifold on all holes aren't going to line up they're now closer together and not where they should be in regard to the manifold so keep that in mind if you like you can actually go on some of the forms that are out there you can download a program called rave Rav II and that has the overhaul manual which will give you a lot of the specs for how far you can cut the heads your torque specs for all your bolts and some some of your assembly run down beside our video so all that information makes this a little bit easier so again in this hope we we check the surface we look there surfaces are good our bracket is on now this is the driver's side head we want to make sure your ground strap is on now one thing we want to check is the oil delivery holes that run oil up to the rockers okay the way they're mounted on top and you'll see you got basically a small hole here this is a 5/32 drill bit we're just going to run that down we want to make sure that one is nice and clear that looks good and this one we can feel some drag and sure enough we've got some sticky mung in there so we're gonna do is take some break clean and blow that out on the same token the coinciding openings in the rocker arms you have your oil delivery holes feed a small chamber on the bottom of the rocker and as you can see there we get some buildup actually quite a bit and that can also cause a lowering of the oil pressure to the rockers so we want to make sure that's open and clean so we're going to clean those out we're gonna make sure those are open and then the next step would be to get the exhaust manifold bolted on so you know which manifold it is on your left side head of the two manifolds the single bolt that single bolt will always point towards the front of the engine so when you set the manifold on place if that's up front this is the correct manifold now we're going to show you something else in regard to the exhaust manifold gaskets proper positioning would be like so nope sorry like so reason being is this cross piece here that connects the two ports is below the spark plug and the head bolt now as you can see these can be mounted upside down and should you make that mistake you are now blocking off access to the head bolt and to the spark plug so when you put these gaskets on it should look like this with that cross piece laying on the bottom and then the front would be exactly the same so from there then we're gonna put the exhaust manifold bolts on don't forget that you have spacers on these bolts I've had this in this little little tray soaking and penetrating oil just to get them lubed up so these are gonna be a 12 millimeter 12-point don't forget to make sure you put your spacer so it's going to be your gasket your manifold and your spacer and then we'll lock those down good and tight and then spark plugs now we find the champions seem to run the best in these four all four six engines especially with the Bosch so you're going to set your gap which is also in the the the rave I believe these are 35 to 42 usually some at about 35 because as they where they'll stay within the specifications now is a good time to install them because it's right here in front of you you can lock them down you don't want to make them too tight because basically you've got the aluminum heads you don't want to over tighten the plugs then you're going to take a lot of torque just want to make sure you snug them in and then last but not least and I always replace the studs you'll see on the manifold that you're missing your three studs that go down through the catalytic converters reason being for that in many cases by the time you're doing an engine job on this the threads are pretty well worn off you might have even had to heat them up taking it out now these are set so that you have two different length threads the shorter end is going to go into the manifold leaving the extended area and the barrel extended out so we're going to just replace all those and it's the same thing if you have a stud puller a lock on that'll do a good job if not you can take a pair of needle nose vise grip and grab the barrel don't grab the threads spin that on and so essentially you don't see any more threads on a short and then you know it's fully seated and that's pretty much it so that at this point now once we get everything cleaned off and together we've ready to put the head on the engine all right so here's our heads completed and put together exhaust manifold spark plugs the rockers are on but loose because they're gonna come back off again e-way what do we get the heads on but they're they're they're cysts in sending the heads in place and you'll see why in a few minutes the other thing I want to mention here's your head gasket you can see that on one side they apply some red sealer and what you're gonna look for is that word top so that means that when you set this in place this is the top side this is what's going to be facing the head and again you can also recognize that by the rent sealer you see that red sealer you should be seeing that when you place it on the floor now you also have a couple locating pins on the block so you'd be able to actually set the head gasket and it'll stay in place when we lower the head on it all right so you see what I've done basically just run to rags underneath the rockers so that when they loop them under and come back up I have a good handle and threads the bolts are in you know a good 5 or 6 threads you want them in there a little bit you want to make sure this doesn't come loose second thing you want to mention always put a fennec cover on because there's a good chance you can end up popping into this you don't want to hit the fender you don't want to cause it dead just something else to work on later down the line so we're gonna do then is just simply lift up on the head I can lower it down in set it in place I only need to move it a little bit and it should pop right on you have two locating pins on the block itself one here and one in the back and it's going to hold the head gasket in place as well so everything will be lined right up and then we can put some head bolts in and get things torqued in so we got the head in place the pins will hold that it's not going to go anywhere taking the rockers back off you just back off the four bolts set that to the side because it will eventually go back on we got to put the lifters and the push rods in so you'll notice that we if you notice when you pulled it apart you had three long head bolts in the top Center and then the rest the remaining seven are the shorter bolts and there's your difference in length so we're going to put one of the long bolts in the top on the short bolt in the bottom in the center and then we'll just think we're gonna run the bus to the bolts install them and then just run them down so they're just touching when they're just touching the head and then from that point we're gonna well torque them up according to specs now specs on these we're going to be tightening them all to 15 foot-pounds and then you're going to turn each one 90 degrees with a breaker bar and then wait about 10 15 minutes and then an additional 90 degrees now being on this case we're starting with the new blocks we've got nice clean threads in the block for the head bolts they had this should this be a youth block or and you're doing just the head gaskets you want to make sure you run a thread chaser down each one of those holes you want to get it all corrosion dirt anything out of those sometimes it's even best if you have access to compress there shoot a little solvent down in each hole and blow it out with the air holding a rag over it so obviously you don't get in your face and from that point this way you won't always want to start with clean threads it's also recommended that before you run each head bolt in what we're going to do is keep a little bit of oil then we're just going to simply dip the end in those head bolts before we install them and this way you'll end up with a much better torque rating you're not fighting against any dirt or any buildup in those threads they're gonna thread in nice and easy so once we get those to win and it's essentially same procedure for the rest of the rest of the head bolts we're just going to run them in so they just touching the head so now we get the head bolts snugged in what we're gonna do that before we torque up now I want to just run this by anytime you put a head or a manifold or or even a pan like a pan gasket or a transmission pan anytime you tighten up something like that you always start from the center so you can do either top or bottom doesn't matter but you start in the center and then you simply work across and then in a outward spiral in other words so we do the bottom Center top Center then we can go to the left do top and bottom we're gonna go over to the other side bottom and then top and then around the top to bottom bottom the top and that's the best way to torque up ahead what that does is reduces Distortion you get a better lock down on it and then believe it or not make for a better job when you've done this once I'm going to wait a minute or two and then go around one more time just to make sure they're all evenly torqued all right so should have mentioned earlier the head to these bolts are 5/8 which is basically the same thing as a spark plug socket so I've used the swivel spark plug socket to run them in especially in those back corners it works very well but now that we're going to go to the 90 degree twist you're going to be getting into a much higher torque so we're going to step up to 1/2 inch drive 24-inch break a bar with a 5/8 socket on the end so we'll start in the middle and we'll go exactly 90 degrees and you can plus or minus 10 degrees it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect there are gauges out there that are available that you can actually install before you put the bolt on or socket on and it will show you at 90 degrees but 90 degrees is pretty much just a straight angle so what we'll do see like in this case really can't get a good bite on anything where it's gonna be easy to figure out 90 there we go alright so essentially here's 0 so 90 degrees is you're gonna run into where the bar should end up actually just about perpendicular to the block and we're essentially just gonna do the same thing all the way around the same thing we're gonna figure about where ninety degrees is languages right up against the farm all right then just to make it easier because the hardest ball to get ad through this whole operation is this back head bolt because we actually have to turn it to a specific torque so we've got a five base deep 1/2 inch drive socket swivel socket so this way we can get in at an angle and we'll essentially going to set it up so that it will not only drop on but set the square in an accessible point and then we can figure out 90 degrees from there so at this stage of the game this is when it gets a little tough because now we're going to do the final 90 we've waited about 10 15 minutes we let things settle in on the first torque now with the additional 90 this is gonna bring you up to over one hundred foot-pounds of torque on an average so what you may need to do when it gets real tight and a cheater bar on to this we're going to see if we can go the full 90 without having to add it in this case I think what we're going to do is because 90 is gonna put us past the firewall we're gonna go 45 and then pull this back and reset it and do the additional 45 so that's essentially the procedure for installing ahead and torquing down on their head gaskets now we're just going to do passenger's side exact same process as we did on the driver's side so next step is gonna be to install the push rods in the rockers now what he did was we cleaned up these push rods you want to put them on a nice smooth surface you want to roll them just to make sure nothing is bent you also want to check both ends kind of run your thumb nail over it if you have a if you have an error you're gonna just catch a little step at the bottom but if it feels really rough or even sharp edge you want to replace that push rod so we have all 16 all cleaned up nice and we've got the lifters in place so we're going to go back over to that engine and set things up all right first things first and I've seen guys do this these lifters come in and out of here fairly easy look at that making sure your gonna put that in facing up and not that end I've seen it done they just got to basically wiggle it'll seat in place they're all pretty well oiled because they've been soaked and you're gonna get down through the hole and you're gonna set up all your push rods make sure you go through the guides there's little holes there in the head that guide the top of the push rod all right so we're gonna set the rocker in place now remember we're gonna make sure you've got here's your rounded area where your push rods are going to seat and of course the flatlands end up on the valves so we'll just set this gently in place you want to get the bolts lined up now you got to remember that right now you're going to have there's going to be some of these push rods or in the up position because the cam they're writing directly on the cam which is going to create spring pressure on the rocker arm so when we tighten this down we just want to go a little bit at a time until we seat the rocker down on the head and then we'll put the torque wrench on it and torque specs on these are 28 foot-pounds once we have the all these bolts seated and we're just going to use a ratchet and a socket to see them down then we'll torque up the specs so we got the rockers down in place the rocker shaft will actually the lands are seated on the head so now we don't have to worry about working against spring pressure the reason we did that was because you could possibly bend that rocker shaft if you could torque one end down and the other has spring pressure it actually creates a force that can bend them so now that they're seated we'll start in the middle we've got their torque wrench set at 28 foot-pounds do the two in the middle and then we go to the outside and we do it one more time just so that we know we have an even torque on all four bolts okay it's pretty much it so now we just do the same on the other side and we'll have our rockers and push rods in place so our next step is we're gonna put the lower intake manifold on to do so you're gonna grab the two end seals that come in your gasket set your Valley pan gasket and then of course the intake and basically what we've done is we clean this off so we get a nice smooth surface on both sides and you're gonna need a 3/8 drive torque wrench now you can use a long extension with a swivel end I just happen to have this tool just makes it a little bit easier this is essentially a 13 millimeter swivel on an already built onto the extension gasket scraper in case you need a final cleanup of course a ratchet extension on now this is a tool that's similar to what the factory calls for and it makes it a lot easier to get to the bolts once you get things in place to torque them up you're gonna put this on the torque wrench it's essentially a 13 millimeter 12 point with 3/8 drive can be referred to as a crow foot sometimes socket extension there's a number of different names for them but this does make the job a lot easier so what we do is start off is we're going to take some of the we'll take some of the high tack and we're going to put a little coating on both sides of the heads I don't recommend using RTV on the gasket surfaces but we are gonna use some to seal up where you've got a couple different components like where the head meets the block and where the front cover meets but mostly just the two areas that where the where the head meets the blocks you have four points so we've done that we're going to let that tack up a little bit and then essentially we're going to take some of the RTV now right here you can actually see a little valley right where the head meets the block what we want to do is we want to fill that with some RTV this will help prevent oil we Benji and we'll let that set up for a few minutes you might get a little tacky so you'll notice the end seals basically conformed to the block so one side is fairly straight the other has a curve to it and you'll see that in the gasket as well plus on the end here you have a little wedge that drops down into that area that we are TV so it's going to push some there now in the manual it tells you to reply just put one little beat of our TV but I usually do it twice down in that Valley and then I'll do it one more time over the top before we put the pan gasket on so we got the two end seals in place a little Dabba RTV again on the corners just to give a little extra missile BC just a little extra protection against an oil leak we're gonna set the pan in place or the bolt holes you can look straight down and we'll push that down into place the next are your to hold down plates now if you remember when we took this apart we put this aside so that the two bolts that hold these down they're a little different than the bolts that are in the rest of the bar so you want to make sure that you've put these aside so we're gonna very gently lower the intake sort of in place but just a little ahead so we can reach in the back and then you've got a fuel line I've got to go on then you want to make sure you hear that click once you got it on there now if you look at the ten bolts that go in this item are all the same length there are two long ones and they're gonna go in the front here and then once we get them all started we're going to torque them down now the factory calls for a sequence to start with seven foot-pounds then all the way around again in 13 foot-pounds and then a final tighten in a 38 most of your 3h drive torque wrenches are not going to get down to seven pounds so I usually set mine at ten and then I'll do 20 and then we do 38 all the way around and even then we'll let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and then go 38 one more time around just to make sure everything's torqued down nice and tight and the gaskets been compressed so just like we mentioned with the heads anytime you torque down a head or a manifold anything like that to reduce the amount of distortion we're going to start from the center and then work our way around into a spiraling outward pattern and so we've talked them all as I said we're gonna do in different come we'll do 10 20 and then 38 and then after the 38 we're going to wait about 10-15 minutes and then do 38 again just to make sure everything's down and tightened properly all right so before we put the valve covers on we have an actual bolt that goes up into the back of the head that runs through that bracket right there and what that does is holds the harness in place right about there so we need to attach that and then we also need to attach the ground strap and if you'll notice on this you'll see a green wire with a loop that's also going to go to that ground post all right so now is the point you definitely want to plug in this is for the crank sensor you're going to see the the tab right here that lot latches on to that little notch so essentially that's the wrong way that's the right way plugged this together you should hear a little click when that blocks in and then there's a bracket on the back that you're not going to be able to see this video that this hooks into to keep it from banging around in there this is a really bad connector to try to get to alright so next is gonna be your valve covers now first thing I do if you notice there's a rag sitting on top of the intake manifold we want to cover those holes you're going to be handling small bolts god forbid you drop one and it goes down they'll put one of those ports and fish it out you'll end up taking the intake back off to get at it so we put a rag over there as protection and then what we've done is we've prepped the valve covers we've shot high tech on the inside areas of both valve covers and on the areas of the gasket itself that will lay on the surface reason for that is that when it gets good and tacky we let it sit for about 15 minutes you put your gasket on the valve cover it's gonna stick and it's going to hold to it otherwise trying to hold on to that and keep it from falling in and unsettling is just a royal pain so this way gas gets stuck to the valve cover we run our bolts down we line it up so much easier now remember that these bolts are eight millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you pull that tool out and clean the bolts up a little bit just give him a little shoot down with some brake clean or whatever it's a little cleaner before you install alright so just as a note there's a groove cut on one side of the valve cover gasket and then one side is actually relatively flat except for one raised rib that's the area that's gonna make contact with the head so the groove the area actually seats all the way around in the valve cover make sure that all four your spacers are president they didn't drop out of the gasket and then we'll get them relatively close and then essentially put the four bolts in and remember you've got the two short on the inside part of the engine and the two long on the outside closer to the exhaust manifold so your passenger side first that has your oil fill tube now remember this is a Bosch engine where your fill tube is on the passenger side of course on a Jemez engine you're gonna find it on the driver's side no all we did was just basically hold up the wiring hard-ass sneak that in and then visually give a look at where the bolts line up and you can kind of wiggle it back and forth and you'll feel one of the little bolts kind of drop down in there what we're going to do is and we'll get them all started now the book says to torque to two and a half foot pounds you're gonna need a very small almost like a dial type quarter inch drive torque wrench if you want to torque it up it's two and a half pounds to do all four and then you go up to six pounds is the final torque on on all four bolts so one sides torqued in place and then simply we're just gonna do the exact same on the other side and before you started tightening bolts down because of all is wiring in one eye you just want to make sure you don't have a wire pinched between the valve cover and the head anywhere in the front or the back will lead the problems later on down the line so same thing with this side we've got some wires hanging around so we want to make sure that we don't get them we don't get them caught up in the valve cover and it's pretty much to it on those alright so they would have the valve covers in place we got the lower intake in place at this point we can grab the main harnesses we can kind of set them in place now in most cases when you when you first took this apart you had basically tie straps that went into these these four locations so of course they get brittle they fall apart you try to open them up they break so you can do it one of two ways you can actually wire tie it directly just loop under and wire tie it or I know a lot of automotive centers have the wire ties with what they call a little Christmas tree attached to them and that Christmas tree will pop right into those holes and wire tie the harness in place and that's what we're going to do with this but this way at least pull the harness out you'll also notice that there is one more green wire on this now if you have like a 2001 and later you probably aren't going to find these green wires this isn't this was a I think this was also this was a 2000 but you've seen this on the early disco twos don't see it so much on the later so if you don't see the green wires don't panic it's not that they're missing that just on that particularly design they're not used so don't worry about that rest of it this harness will get down the side of the bracket what we're really thinking about right now is we're going to put the main harness back in this place and then we're gonna plug in all the injectors and then this small bolt right here on the fuel rail is going to be the bolt we're gonna run out and then we're gonna attach that green wire right here for that round idle air control the one wire you want to be concerned with this wires for the knock sensor this is going to run all the way down and underneath you just want to make sure we get that down there because once we get the bracket and the alternator in place or I'm sorry the power steering pump in place we don't want to pinch that wire we want to make sure we put that in a good spot all right bingo okay that's good for now and then as we go along we'll be plugging everything else in all right so at this point now we're back underneath the vehicle we've got to get a few things connected yet now that one harness that has the lead for the starter the starter wire and for the knock sensor on the right hand side we got to sneak that through a hall that is on the upper back side of the mount so that it comes through to just above the starter so you got here's the end of your started connection this is going to go on to this nut here there's a small Spade pushing right on that right over the top of this stud and nut that's your for your s wire that'll be this lead right here and then you also have your connector that you're going to push in you're going to click into your knock sensor right here then once we've done that then we can sneak the heatshield in there and get that popped in place before we put the exhaust on so getting the shield back up in there sort of a bit of a magic trick this bracket tucked up into the all right you know we work on trying to get there's a tab on the end of this that drops into a hole which will help line up just kind of working back and forth until we find it there we go all right and that puts that in place so if you have a mirror what you can do is actually look up inside the mount the see if the holes lined up or not once we determine it isn't it or it isn't turn it the way we need to turn it to get it to line up all right so this is what the finished product should look like this clip is locked around the solenoid your wiring is protected from the heat from the heat shield and then the front bolt is in and locked in place so this is good and solid not going anywhere so now we just quickly we're gonna look through the other side and here we have the other knock sensor we've plugged that in and you'll notice that this loop lines right up with this hole right here and so what we're going to do is go find a bolt put the bolt in there and then that will lock that one piece of wire right there in place so keep it secure and then we can put the exhaust back up in place so now we're ready to put the exhaust up in place we've got to get your to hold gasket up in there and usually can push it up in place I always like to start on the driver's side and leaves me some flexibility on the passenger side we're not gonna run the nuts up tight initially we just want to get them up in place and then the front part is essentially getting up in there to get the gasket on this is actually sometimes a little easier from up top it says we're just gonna lay the gasket right over the opening we'll line up the holes all right so we're gonna hook the exhaust stop we find it's a lot easier to get to this passenger side setup then from underneath because you got the driveshaft and everything else in a way so we're just gonna sneak down in there then we're gonna slide the gasket up over the studs so we can raise that up and it's gonna take a little take a little doing but it will go and we got one two and three and then you can just raise the exhaust up you have to reach down in pull up on the exhaust and slide the studs over with one arm hold it up and the other we're gonna just put one nut on to help support it all right so we've got that side hooked up basically just got the three bolts and I just want to make note don't forget now's a good time to plug in that o2 sensor and then tuck the wire in back behind the right side head and it'll keep it out of the way the exhaust well it's just to give you a shot what we've done on the passenger's side you're going to leave the nuts loose you got allow for some slack and now we're going to pop the driver's side on all right so basically at this point now we've got the six nuts in on the exhaust we're going to run them up we got them completely tight as far as torque specs because of the long extension you need to get up there a torque wrench isn't going to be accurate anyway so you just want to essentially just get them good and tight and then don't forget to plug in your o2 sensor connector on the driver's side and we're going to tuck that back in behind the bracket so next what we're going to do is we'll get these transmission coolant lines back up in place gonna have to do a little don't be a little pushing in pollen but we essentially need to twist it get this one up into this upper clip the lower one into the lower clip and then we'll show you where the other one goes alright so we're gonna install the bracket now that supports the AC compressor and the steering pump you want to make sure if you have an oil cooler equipped vehicle you want to make sure that the one line for the oil cooler underneath is back in behind the bracket also your wire going down to your your knock sensor you want to make sure that's clear and then basically you're going to set it up on that stud that's on the front of the head and that's going to come through this hole right in top of the power steering pump and we just slide that again double-check your wire make sure it's not pinched in there and we'll put the put the top bolt on you'll feel the thread they line right up alright so we'll put the other two bolts on and then we have the nut that goes on the sword and the single bolt up top and then we're just gonna run those in tight just quickly before I run them in just to show you where the bolts out where the locations are the nut and the single bolt up top this is a ten millimeter head these are all going to be thirteen and just going to set them up good and tight okay one thing I'm going to mention about this oil cooler the one line that we snuck in behind the bracket obviously attaches down underneath and gets locked down but to put it in the right position what we're going to need to do is we've we don't want to set it up on this bracket right away we're gonna leave this off we got to get underneath we're gonna essentially put the other end of the tube up into its location by the filter leave that nut loose then get back up in here set the bolt up in this so now the hose is in its proper position there's no tension on any of the parts and then we go back down torque the the nut that secures it to the oil filter housing and then back up to tighten this one alright so what we're going to do next is we're gonna hook up the upper this is the lines for the heater hoses for your heating system I'm gonna move that out of the way and then put a little replace this whole ring and then put a little Vaseline on there so it slips in this way it won't pinch it as we go in it's kind of a tight fit alright so next I'm gonna show it's already connected but just to remind you we're gonna connect you got this you got a black connector here and that's going to go to the cam sensor don't forget it because it's kind of out of sight so underneath the water pump and you don't see it so you don't want to forget connecting that you're going to need that so you can start the vehicle then you also got your oil pressure center right here we've connected those and now what we're going to do is put the other line on for the oil cooler don't forget gotta make sure you put your you put your new o-ring on make sure that can spin all right so now I'll show you we put the lower hose in place you have the one down tube goes into the small opening the long neck is what attaches to the water pump and then the short loop this goes to the angled upward outlet of the thermostat okay just so you have a note top of the thermostat has two outlets you have one that goes up at an angle and one that comes straight up the one at an angle is what's going to get down to the lower hose this one's going to go to the upper hose we'll show you that when we get to that point so now we're just going to squeeze the clamp sign get those into place you can see we got our electrical connections in place and we have this hose in and now the upper hose this has got a short bolt that goes into the bottom and that's been installed and tightened up so then we're going to be ready to put that last bracket in alright so let's get that bracket down in place you can see we've got one two three four bolts that run through so here's the lower on the inside it's the easy one to see this way we can line that up and get that started and that'll make lining up the other three that much easier okay next is gonna be the cooling tube you can see we've got this torqued in place does this say hoses on we got some stuff here that eventually is going to get bolted to this bracket right now we just need to get these on so the tube essentially is tucked in right in the front of the intake manifold you've got an old ring on the back you want to make sure you put a new oil ring there we're going to put a little Vaseline on that and then just to get things started we'll put one bolt in there we'll need about a six or eight inch extension and a ten millimeter socket the reason we put this on after the brackets because there's a support bracket right here that bolts to the alternator support so you need that in place before you can put this tube in so now it's just a matter of we put that one bolt in there and then we're going to put one in the support bracket to support it alright so we put a bolt here in the support bracket so now this will just hold it in place and we can sneak in underneath and install these other bolts all right and now for the fun part in their infinite wisdom Land Rover puts the ignition coils buried back behind the upper plenum so in other words if we put the plan of mine you'd be almost impossible to put this on first off you can't even get to the bottom bolts once the plenum is in place and you can't really tighten them until you put the upper bolts in so what we normally do is we will lay this in place we'll put the two bottom bolts in and we're just gonna just snug them and then back them off just a little bit enough to give a little bit of movement the reason being is when we put the upper plenum on that has to slide underneath these holes so we've got to have some movement in there so that we can line them up and you were going to use the top bolts to secure this in place all right so we're gonna do we're going to drop this into place but before we go trying to put the bolts in place we have the two electrical connectors there's one and there's the other and each one of these gets plugged into each side this powers this side coil this powers this side and then basically one coil will power four cylinders and each coil pack has actually two individual coils built into it the other thing what we're gonna do is before we even grab those little bolts we're gonna put a rag over the top here because god forbid we dropped one down in the hole it will not be fun fishing it out all right so we got both the holes lined up we've got one started on one side now you can see these are hard to get at so if you put a little dab of our TV or you can even use grease and we're gonna do is put that on that socket and that's gonna hold that bolt so we can sneak it down in there location so we can get it started and then we're gonna do the same we did with the other one we'll run it down Snug it in and then just basically back it off about a half a turn just to allow enough slack so it'll wiggle so we can get those top bolts set alright so now we're gonna put the plug wires in now you'll notice most of the plug wire sets even after market for these are numbered you can see here's number one number three number five number seven so there's one three five seven two four six eight same thing on the other side so we're gonna just start plugging these in and what I do is I like to give a little shot a silicon in each one four one makes it go on easier adds a little extra protection to the boot and this way you feel the distinct set in when you put the boot on the plug you should actually kind of feel it click in just put that in your hold it right there and so that's seven threes number five it's gonna go in the middle right here I should hear that click then we'll just do the same thing to the other side alright so now we've got that all set up in the back we're gonna put the upper plenum on don't forget your steel gasket you've cleaned off the top surface of the lower manifold you have to raise dowels on here that are gonna basically give you the right location that's going to hold the gasket in place and then the manifold we self is gonna click on to those as well now if you get one it's a little stubborn we just put a socket over it now what we're gonna do is we're gonna set the manifold in place let's pull this up because we're gonna need this this will go on your idle air control motor because of the way this is set up when we put the plenum on we're gonna need to lift the front it's going to drop in we line it up with the front dowel lower it down and then lock it on to that dowel and then from there once we lock once we put the bolts in and lock down the upper plenum then we have to reach in the back and line up these two holes and run two bolts down through and this will actually bolt to the back of the upper plenum alright so now we're ready to put the upper plenum on we've taken the studs out of the sides and you can either put the studs back in after you put this in place or you can just get some six millimeter bolts three-quarters of an inch long and they'll work just as well so by doing that though it gives us a little more freedom to move this around and get it in place essentially what you're going to be doing is on the back the manifold you have these two bosses that come out these are the two bolt holes for the bolts that hold the top of the coil that goes over the top of this so what we're gonna do is go in in an angle and then drop it down and then move it so that we it drops on to the two locating dowels and once that's in place then it's just put the bolts in and lock them down and what I've done to is to save a little time you can bend this back out of the way here's the single bolt that we left in the manifold when we took this apart so we can just leave it in there and then of course it's going to go in in this position so I remember you've got a sink also a single bolt in the back and a single bolt in the front beside the three long ones that you're going to torque down so now it's just a matter of set this in place you may need a flashlight when you can see what you're doing is simply gonna walk this back slowly you can actually see how everything lines up all right so we've got our hardware right here take our three bolts drop those in and if you can't quite get your fingers in these front and back bolts what I've used is a tool and I'll show you in a second is a tool that called expanding fingers and it will grab around the head bolt and you can actually run it down spin it in and then come in with a socket extension a ratchet to torque it down all right so you can see what the tool does it'll actually hold the bolt on the end it gives you access to do a deeper area right here and you just run your finger down through the feel for the hole and by grabbing the head of the bolt you can actually use the tool to spin it in until you feel it seat down and we'll just do the rest with the socket and we'll do the same with the front bolt sleep in there yeah all right all right so we'll get a 10-millimeter socket extension ratchet and we'll torque those down all right so there is no torque spec listening and Land Rover's overhaul manual specifically for these bolts they have a general a general chart eight millimeter bolts they recommended torque to 13 foot-pounds I think that's a little bit on the loose side I don't have an exact torque spec to recommend but you see what I essentially do is run them until they're snug and then just give them just a little twist just to add some tension let them sit for a couple seconds and then go back and start from the middle and just will go around twice just to make sure everything is tight and even all right so now at this point we have this torque down now's a good time what we're gonna do is we're gonna connect the throttle body heater hoses remember we have this long one over here this is gonna go across because once you put your alternator and your AC compressor back in it's kind of tough to get them in there so I'll do those then you also have your PCV breather hose right here that's gonna go onto this spigot you want to check this black this black spigot or nipple on those because these have a tendency to loosen up so you want to make sure you snug that in you don't want any vacuum leaks there and of course plug in this is the vacuum line over to your brake booster you're gonna plug that in and then what you have right here is the one heater hose that has the hole for a bolt or where the stud was through the side you want to reattach that and then your other heater hose tube or lay up over the top we're gonna put a new bolt in there so that's essentially we're just gonna hook up all the in celery's we've also got for your emission controls you have your your control solenoid here this is going to plug into the throttle body and then your connector for your idle air motor so all that gets connected to this upper plenum and then we can go on to the next step the first one and the fun part is getting those two bolts for the coil to the manifold lined up because you're essentially going to do that by feel what you can do is you can move this big harness a little more out of the way so you can get your hand down in there and the rest is pretty much done by feel and this is why we leave the bottom bolts a little loose on that coil mount so that we can rock this back and forth and eventually get the hole lined up and get the bolt started yeah take a little patience a little time but you'll get it all right so here's a good example you find yourself having a hard time getting that ball lined up if you can get up like I have an expanding mirror that I can use in the back any mural work but what you can do that is angle it down so you can get a look at why you're not able to line up and you'll see like on this one what we've got to do is be able to move that bracket forward and we don't I didn't quite leave it loose enough on the bottom to do that so what we do is we take a little pry bar and then we just just gently move it back a little bit and now we know we can see the holes are lined up put a bolt in there get that lock down all right and then what we're gonna do next is put the throttle and the cruise control cable hook up on here because these two bolts at least one of them is sort of covered by the AC compressor so we're gonna put that off this way the whole upper plenum is all together by the time we're ready to put our two-inch hilary's on and our idler pulleys so you got two eight millimeter head bolts here I'll hook up that bracket we just sort of snug it and what you'll need to do is go to full open throttle you'll see a little slot in the top there slide the barrel in and then line up the slot to pop it fully in place just to make sure it's in there completely you know so you should be able to swivel that little barrel in there so then you know you're in properly and then the same thing with the cruise control slide that over so it lines up with the groove all right you should just have some slight tension on it should have just a little bit of free play on that not much and I will just get up millimeter socket tighten that up and we'll have everything together on the plane all right so just a quick review on the upper plenum because we want to make sure so we've tightened down the four bolts up top one in the back one one in the front for a total of six you have your connection here for your idle air motor you have your connection here for your admission control this is for the evap system this is the OP the purge valve so you have your electrical connection and then you have your hose connection right here this is just a pop in your breather hose and your throttle position sensor you've got your connector up in here so we're we're good there your two heater hoses to the throttle body heater and they're on nice and snug and they're in the back and then of course your two bolts and then we just showed you how to put the throttle cables on and we'll go around to the other side and we'll do a quick review on that all right and then on the passenger side course we have our the breather hoses connected and this clamp is on we've plugged in our vacuum line that feeds our brake vacuum booster our two heater hoses we have the Bolton on top that locks the two brackets so the hoses the metal hoses together along with the single bolt down now I'm going to make a note on this that on these engines without secondary air there's a spacer that goes between this hose bracket and the upper plenum and you would have found that when you took it off sometimes after these vehicles that they've been worked on once before somebody didn't put that spacer back in just a couple flat washers works just fine so that's in place and then of course everything else lines up here now you'll see two and this is kind of a neat trick you can actually take a razor knife and cut this rubber connector for these two hoses though you don't need to all right but just a note and then what we're gonna do then is you can see we have some exposed wire down here that I really don't like we're gonna get some plastic convolute to go over the top of that before we attach everything to this bracket and then we're ready to put the AC compressor and the alternator on alright so next step was what we're gonna do we're gonna tie in the heater hose you have there's actually a threaded hole behind this opening that's going to bolt and support this line up against the alternator mounting bracket and then you see you got two little brackets right here what you're going to want to use is this is a tie strap with what they call a Christmas tree on the end of it so you can wrap it around the wiring here and then plug the Christmas tree into that and that'll basically hold this up in here now as you just can see the old cover has starting to fall is falling off on this leaving the wire insulation exposed you see this piece right here I've installed just to cover up the wiring there we're gonna do the same with this we're gonna replace that convolute like I said you can buy that in any automotive center and then you've got your ground wire right here and that's going to be bolted right in this position from the front there's a threaded hole on the front of the bracket so then that'll get this all set so then the next step will be both the alternator and the AC compressor so just to give you a little overall look what we have is so you're our ground line is attached here our bracket that comes off of this hose is attached here we replaced convolute over the exposed wiring and then we've taken the wire ties with the Christmas trees and put them in place so that everything is essentially in its place so now we're ready to put the alternator on so alternator mounts on this bracket and what you have are these sliding shoes basically that are used to install the alternator and what they do is they actually slide within the bracket most cases once you've taken the alternator out and pried it out this one's already back in place this one you can I'll show you see how it hangs out leaves and area there you take your hammer and open up the space so the alternator will just drop in when you tighten it up it pulls those shoes in and locks everything in place and the only two wires that you need to attach are going to be your battery feed cable and then your field wire and you can see essentially just on the back of the alternator you've only got two positions so it's kind of hard to get it wrong and the alternator obviously is going to set in this position so we're gonna hook our wiring up first and then we're gonna set the alternator in there and then just as a tip there's a lot of hardware put aside on this and there's a lot of bigger bolts as we get towards the end as far as the hanging brackets the plainer why not you'll notice that the two alternator bolts have this goldish tone they're an anodized bolt so if you're not quite sure what bolts go on the alternator look for this gold-tone on the shaft and the size of the bolt and then those will be the correct ones for the alternator so next is gonna be the AC compressor and as you can see basically you just have four bolts up top there is a locating dial here which will help you to get it set up and located now as you remember we didn't have to disconnect the AC lines this is just been sitting here waiting for us to put it back together and what I normally do is before you slide the sign you got this back left-hand corner bolt always put that on first cuz what's gonna happen is when you get the compressor here in line you're not going to be able to install this bolt because the throttle linkage is going to be in a way so before you set it in grab one your alternator bolts and it'll actually help you line up a little better because that will locate in the back hole and then you've got your dowel in the front and now we'll just drop our three remaining bolts in this one will obviously have to put in tighten up with a wrench the other three if you have compressed air you can run it in with that or just do all them with a socket and a ratchet all right so now we're gonna start putting the pulleys on so we can get the belt on now one thing we did notice when we got into it this the original tensioner was binding up the to bet the two idlers one of them felt kind of rough so we actually offered this kit we can get both the idler pulleys and the tensioner if you're gonna put a new motor in you don't need any future problems for the low-cost that you can get this kit for it's well worth putting in you don't have to deal with the belt problem so what we're going to do then is we're going to install these and then we've got to put the water pump pulley on and the power steering pump which is just a matter of flying up the pulleys put your bolts in and tighten them up but just so you know you'll see that the two idlers are of different sizes the smaller pulley is going to be mounted here so you're going to want to put the tensioner on first and then the small pulley and then your large pulley is going to be located right here and then at that point we'll put the other two on alright so here's what the pulleys look like installed like I said small and on the bottom big one up top and then you want to give a little test spin just to make sure they're seated properly ok so spins got a little bit of resistance which is good that's a nice tight bearing and then the tensioner and then you always want to look in the back and make sure that the back of this is seated flat there's a locating pin that drops in so you're gonna slide that pin in to the hole in the back side of the bracket and then just move this up until your bolt drops in tighten it up and you're good alright so next is going to be water pump pulley and power steering pulley alright before you put the power steering pulley on and I've seen it done because it can be mounted in either direction so what you're going to do is basically look at the pulley and you're going to see the imprint of the I guess I would call the triangle of the pyramid which is the surface that's going to ride on the pond the pump itself you'll see the imprint on one side on the other you won't so obviously then this is the proper side to install against the power steering pump there is a difference in the offset so if you do install it backwards the belts not gonna line up right so you want to make sure you see that imprint and then on the water pump pulley you will see where there are marks on the ball holes where the original bolts went so you just want to reuse those because this way you know everything's gonna line up right so on the water pump pulley what I like to do is I'll turn this so that I've got one threaded hole straight up so I have an orientation because once I go to slide the pulley over I can't see those we'll set that bolt right in place and it's sort of lining up and you just roll it around a little bit to let bolt lines right up slight this up over the hub put the other two on now these don't require a great amount of torque and you can actually when you go to tighten these you can actually get your hand wrapped around that pulley and be able to tighten it again look for the tripod point that straight up it aligns itself right up alright so then we just put the last remaining two bolts in and then we get everything tightened up all right so now comes the fun part we're gonna put the belt on if you didn't take a picture before he took it apart to give you an idea of how its routed this is the best way to go about it we're gonna phone basically the belt like so and we've done a sag or a loop in the center and that loop is going to go around the power steering pulley okay then we're gonna go up and over the AC compressor and we're gonna go up and over the alternator around the tensioner and at this point we're not gonna worry about that little pulley and you'll see why in a minute then we're going under that made the steering too damp the crankshaft pulley up and over power steering pulley and around this larger idler yeah some things you got a slight go to get up so what that essentially does gets everything in place now of course rib side of the belt will always be on the ribs pulleys so you have alternator AC compressor power steering pump lower deeper and tension or old ribs so you should have rib sight on there now what we do is we take our wrench now this is a different size than the original with this kit they originally you'd have a 15 millimeter here but they have stepped up to a 16 millimeter put that up and won't push it down we're simply gonna just give us enough room to slide that belt up and over the little pulley and then before you take all let allow all the tension on there just a quick feel to make sure that the belt is fully seated and all the other pulleys wet up and there you are belts in place so next step then is going to be putting the fan shroud and the fan on and your upper radiator hose alright so very important we don't want to forget the dipstick now these use a very high vacuum PCV system as well as the emission control is also incorporated on there so literally any vacuum leak can create a drivability issue on these so when I put the dipstick in we're gonna actually run a bead of black RTV right around the base of this neural this is what seats down on the block where when we insert this and this way by the time we actually get to the point where we're ready to start it this will be pretty well be setup so we know we got a good seal so that's really all we're gonna do is throw a little little black RTV on that take our finger and just run around about the thickness of that raised area tick-tick-tick to and then we're just gonna basically slide it right down the hole see your hole right there now slide right in and then you have a threaded hole right here on the side of the valve cover and you flip this up this is going to line right up with it there and then once we run that screw in there let that our TV set up we'll be all set and then we can actually put our dipstick right inside the tube all right and of course you want to plug in your AC compressor and that's your great plug connector right here you push that into you hear the click and just put this down where it's really not rubbing against anything too severely and then we just have the one wire here for the mass air flow sensor we'll put that to the side all right so now what we're going to do is we're going to put the lower shroud in for the fan there are just bay there's two clips that attach on the bottom and then two Phillips screws on each side here then they're gonna hold that lock that down and then the fan and then the upper shroud and then the actually it's going to be the lower shroud the fan and we're going to do the radiator hose one thing I want to mention on these lay the thermostat if you taking a good look right here top of the thermostat has two outlets one goes off at about a forty degree angle one points straight up they're both the same size and I have seen where somebody could actually install it with this reversed which will actually cause an overheating problem so you want to make sure that the angled outlet goes to the lower hose which goes down to the water pump and the straight up is going to go to the upper radiator hose which also attaches here and here but just keep that note so the angle to the water pump straight up to the upper radiator all right so we put our Stroud we got two Phillips screws grab the bottom we pull out make sure that those tabs on the bottom if holding it in place and we just slide the fan in and we try to get it as square as possible you do I do it just the back of my hand up against the front of the fan clutch and if you just work it real slow eventually you'll hit a spot where it'll feel like the threads will catch and then from there you can just spin it on all right so I've put the upper hose in place but I want to show you basically how it looks should look when it's installed your so you have your bleeder cap right here your joined here at that front tube upper radiator and then of course down on the thermostat clamps are in place and you want to make sure you can feel that bulb that little bulge at the end of the nipples that you attach these to and they're there so that with the clamp behind it there's no chance of it coming off it's just a little security measure they built into these so you would just want to make sure the clamp is below or behind that bulge so that you know you've got it in a proper position all right so essentially we're ready at this point we've gotta just put the top cover on which is four screws that only turn the eternal 90 degrees in there in and then we'll put the air filter in the hose in and then we can put on our final colon line which is the overflow or the vent line that goes across into the expansion tank okay actually we're gonna do is we're going to put this the vent blind on now because this cover actually goes over the top of it you see these two raised areas right here actually is the channel that this is gonna rest in kind of acts as a sort of a support we just push that on there what I would suggest is if this host feels brittle at all nodes if you can't take it and flex it like that it feels like it's gonna crack and split replace it because more unlikely it's exactly what it's going to do very soon and you certainly don't want to risk your your new engine and all your work on a relatively inexpensive hose same thing were there anything else wearable on the engine if you're gonna put the time and money put a new engine on if the old hoses feel dried out put new hoses on it I've done that with every engine I've put in new hoses new belt anything basically rubber and flexible it's not worth the risk it's worth a little extra money for the security of knowing you've got a good system in there so it around a little bit so it lines up you see the cutout on the side there's for that hose you got one hop and just turn 90 degrees and you'll actually feel the screw come to a stop when it seats in there we go and just squeeze that upper hose a little bit and pop that right in place we're pretty much assembled there and now we just need to hook up the intake tube and the air filter assembly right just to make it easier now Chris the air filter you pulled it out so you get the idea it's basically a pop in I like to do is I shoot a little silicone spray on those rubber rubber sets that that goes into it just
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British in this video we're gonna touch on something that we've had a lot of requests for in the past that's a fairly common issue with some of these older 401 4 sixes and that's head gaskets we found a lot of our do-it-yourself technicians and a lot of shops have called me on different issues on these but the biggest thing basically is usually head gaskets so what we're gonna do is we're gonna give you basically a video on how to do that so first I want to talk about the kit that you're gonna need now of course you know like on the floral and the four six as of 1999 he went from gems to Bosch so you need to be able to identify which engine you have in your vehicle before you even begin and that you can get that information right off of our website so what we're going to do is we're going to show you on a Bosch which is a little bit more complicated than the gem so it might be a better one to be able to get into so what I'm going to show you first is the gaskets kit that we have available comes all in one set and gives you all the gaskets that you're going to need to be able to do the whole head gasket job now this is under our part number sa404b engine we do have one for the gems so you'll need to be able to find that in a website the other thing is and because they you normally recommend that you replace them with every head gasket job is going to be head bolts now these are torque to yield head bolts so the specification on these when you tighten them in is based on how many degrees you turn the ball and we'll get into that when we talk about reassembly but this is the head bolt kit that you'll need now if you want to go one step better we also have a stud kit available which will take the place of the head bolts I find this is a more reliable setup especially when you're dealing with aluminum engines because of the high expansion and contraction when they eat and cold so this stud kit is also available through us and we have this under a RP 4301 both of work that had the head bolts or other stud kid it all depends on how you want to put your engine together alright so before we even begin to just give you a few tips that'll make the job a little bit easier for you first off right off the bat obviously we're going to disconnect the battery disconnect the negative lead put that to the side this way you know as far as your alternator circuit and it's not gonna be live you're not gonna touch it and ground it out and cause any damage so we're gonna disconnect the battery we're gonna end up draining the coolant which I'll show you a nice little trick because on these they don't have a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator so I'll show you a nice little trick for getting that off first thing we would do then we would take off the fan shroud and the fan and I have a habit of I let the air out of the front tires which gets the nose down by about three and a half inches what makes it a lot easier to get to the hardware and whatnot towards the back of the engine the other thing you may want to do if you're not that familiar with the design this is first time taking one apart you haven't done one before it's a good idea to grab yourself if the coffee cans little plastic containers or whatever and then as you disassemble the engine you're going to put those that hardware from different segments in a container and you're going to market alternator hardware valve cover hardware and why not so when you go to reassemble it's a lot easier to identify what bolts go where and in general last but not least as I say once we've lowered the front end we disconnect the battery we're going to drain the fluid is bring your digital camera out or your smart phone when you get to an area where like say for your belt configuration or for the way the wiring is routed on one side take a picture of it before you disassemble it believe me it'll make it a lot easier when you go to reassemble so those are some tips to help get you started now I will show you how to drain the coolant alright so we're gonna start we're gonna remove the top of the fan shroud and base and all you've got is four Phillips screws and it's not even a full screw it's a turn 90 degree and release that'll pop pop this up or shroud off take the hose off and then what we'll do is get down to the the fan itself and we'll take that off so we remove the cover from the shroud now we're going to get into the fan now essentially I pre loosened this fan because with several different things you may run into one they may come off very easy where you're going to take your fan tool you're gonna run it down on the nut let it sit on there you want to do this between the blades so that you're not gonna crack a fan blade on this and just take a nice rubber mallet or something with some weight give it a I shot now 50% of the time that'll just break them loose and allow you to take the fan off but in this case we had one where we had a lot of problems and you can do several different things you can take a long straight blade screwdriver sneak it behind a tool and jam it between the water-pump hub and one of the pulley bolts there's also a tool available through Land Rover that is a long flat bar that will drop over and actually grab around all those bolts on the pulley and allow you to hold it and get some leverage if you're in the shop I know I've had to do it several times is a long air chisel extension and then just work the nut and just slowly work it off in this case we had to basically turn this off almost all the way before I finally loosened up so these can get on there pretty tight so be prepared to spend some time on this if yours is in that condition so once we've reached that point we've been able to unthread it and this is a right hand thread we just want to mark that because some of the newer land rovers have gotten left-hand thread on the Jag engines on these on the four on the four six this fan is a right hand thread so we have that off we're going to set that aside for a minute and then what we're going to do now is we're going to remove this shroud there's two 10 millimeter head bolts that'll take the shroud off remove the belt we'll show you how to do that and then at that point we'll show you how to drain the colon on this so next step is going to be removing the belt and as I said earlier what you want to do is pull you out your cell phone your camera or whatever if you're not really familiar if it's the first time you've done this to look at the routing on the belt which runs under the damper over the tensioner or over the idler around the tensioner over the alternator and then down and under the water pump pulley up and over the AC pulley behind another idler pulley and then your power steering pump so take a good picture of that and then this way later on when you go to put everything together you use know where it's supposed to go so the group of the book remove the belt you have your tensioner on the passenger side here it's a 15 millimeter head bolt you can go one of several routes you could use a long ratchet with a 15 millimeter socket you can use belt tensioner they make me sell these everywhere this is a long extended bar with various tips on to fit different vehicles and you can use that as the tensioner I prefer this and using this for years and that just pops on there and you're gonna push down which will lift the tensioner flip the belt right off the bottom idler and pop it right back off you can take the belt off and set that aside alright so the next step is gonna be to drain the coolant out of this vehicle now you notice there is no drain plug on the bottom of the radiator the factory tells you you disconnect the lower hose which means you're going to be standing under this when you let go you really don't want to do that either so what you can do you can drain about 3/4 of the cooling system out just by taking there's one bolt out of the water pump and we're going to show you where that is alright so there's the location of the bolt this is the lower of the two eleven-sixths are 11 millimeter bolts you'll know that because the rest of the bolts that hold the water pump to the front cover are 10 millimetre heads and you can see this one hoots like it had some slight leakage so it's easy to see that it actually does attach to a coolant line so I want you to take that out that's drained about 3/4 of the colon out of the block just don't forget to put a pin underneath to catch it so next step now is going to be to remove this upper hose let's get this out of our way what I did to is it gave a little pre spray of some penetrating oil on the clamps you'll notice that if you don't do that they're a little dry they come off hard shoot a little oil on them and everything comes off much easier now you have warm clamps on this particular connection but at the other ends you have the squeeze clamps before you get this hose off we're gonna take the little bypass hose off take account if you have the original hose on there these get kind of hard and brittle so you want to flex it as little as possible so I like to get this one up and out of the way because it also somewhat interferes would take in the air box and the intake tube out we'll work that off and then basically just set this down and in front of the radiator so it's out of the way less the chance of breaking it so then we're gonna take our squeeze clamp nice pair of water pumps does a great job on these so I'll take that off and then we're gonna back off the one that's here at the thermostat just lift that off there no then it's just a matter of you recently moved to wins and we'll take that clamp off and we'll get this right out of the way it's something I'll mention it of course is taking the hose off and sometimes where these hoses have been on for a long period of time they really stick on there and they don't just twist off so there's a handy tool you can get you can buy these from any tool supplier it's just nothing more than a sort of a bent pointer and you can use that to get up underneath the hose and break it loose from wherever it's attached just work it around back and forth a little bit and that separates it and once you've done that at least three-quarters of the way around you should be able to just spin that out and remove it there we go and now that hoses out now as you go through and you disassemble any engine this is a good time to be looking at different components that wear that you may look ahead of time and say okay this is Warren I'm gonna replace that as well and this way you can get your parts together before you start your assembly when you look at a hose and you look down inside which one will check out the corners on the inside if you see vertical lines in there the Nets telling you that basically the hose is starting to wear on the inside and material is breaking down that material eventually is going to end up in your reading or your heater core and to plugging it up so any sign of real way or inside these hoses you want to replace them if you see any residue or buildup on the junction that's telling you you got a leak there same thing with down on the other end of the hoses wherever you can look down in and see corners just look for lines and striations that indicate the hoses are worn this one actually internally looks pretty good I end up reusing this one now we're going to remove the top of the air box and the intake tube you have worm gear clamp here and you have what the happens these little pop Clips here and these you just get up underneath with a pick and you're gonna lift and it releases now usually recommend or I try to either put these clamps in my little plastic container or just wreak lamp them so that they stay on the hose so when I go to reassemble I can find all my clamps so then we unclip that again we kind of pretreated this clamp a little penetrating oil so it spins off much easier you just want to make sure that's good and loose and then you have two clamps here that you just pop and lift back and then your mass airflow sensor connector you're just going to squeeze the top of it you have to squeeze and tabs on both sides and most times you need a little screwdriver just to work it off a bit and move that out of the way down there twist at that off now there's an o-ring inside this air box you want to make sure one that it's there I've had vehicles come in where that was missing and also if it's expanded or if it's deteriorated and cracked because you want to make sure you have a good seal between the two so you're not pulling in debris bypassing the air filter so we'll set that aside just for a second we have a clamp here and we have a clip here and then we just lift up the back side and we lift the top of the air by ourselves now is a good time take a look at your air filter yeah I think will be replaced in that one so now if you want and very easy to do the bottom of the airbox which actually that area makes a nice shell for when we go to take the AC compressor off this is just a matter of lift until it pops it just pops into plastic grommets this would be harder in for real cold weather so keep that into account if you're working out in your driveway especially now during the winter months and then we're gonna open that up a little bit we have our cold air intake where it attaches to the fender it's just 210 millimeter nuts which I think they're even too plastic the plastic once we get them off make sure you put them in your little plastic container where you're keeping your hardware that just pops right out and we lift that out and now you see we have a nice area we can put depression when we take it out also again nice little tip you got to ground headers right here on this front firewall and these are actually rather important a lot of your sensors ground on these two points while you got the box out it would be a good idea to back them off clean them up a little bit and retighten them back up just to make sure you got a good ground hide so as we mentioned the AC compressor we're going to set it here to take the compressor off we just have a single electrical connector right here push your tab sometimes these squeeze hard there we go you can actually hear it click when it releases and then we have four ten millimeter bolts and this one in the back these you just loosen up with a wrench you really can't get a straight socket on it as you can see your throttle cable and your cruise control cable alright so we have our four bolts out we're gonna leave that back one in obviously can't get it out anyway we'll take a long bar we want to pop that loose because there are two locating dowels that will lock on on the Sun a little bit so what's great about this is we're gonna run that wire under there and you don't have to disconnect your AC so we don't have to worry about redoing it when we're done as you can see we got a nice little holding area right there and keep it out of the way now that we have the belt off now it's a good time to be checking all your pulleys we're gonna do a little spin on the alternator the tensioner so you know this one is kind of stiff and grinding we're gonna definitely replace that pulley there should essentially spin relatively free a little bit of resistance and definitely no grinding and the power steering you want to make sure you feel a little resistance there and now's a good time to grab the water pump pulley and give it a little wiggle let's see if we have any play if you feel any loose play now it's the time to replace that water pump so now what we're gonna do disconnect the battery and we're gonna remove this bracket which is the mouth of the AC compressor we'll do that by taking these three bolts out here you need to remove this pulley because there's a nut retainer nut on the backside behind this that you're going to need to remove to take this off there is a bolt on the side here holding the power steering hoses we're going to take that off we have this bolt right here you've got three long bolts that go through the bracket into the block we'll remove those and this whole aluminum assembly will come right up and out and the power steering pump is just going to be left to the side alright so as I was saying this bracket is going to be coming out and we're gonna set this down well it's a good tip to do right now find yourself a big piece of cardboard or a piece of masonite or what and you're gonna set it right down inside in front of that radiator and essentially is just to protect the radiator so as we are moving brackets and bolts and heavier objects you want to make sure that you don't slip and hit that radiator and end up now having to replace the radiator on top of your head gasket job so it's a good tip protects the radiator save you a lot of money and grief if you don't so before I take this off I just want to show you how to back them out so you can sell these are the bolts that you're going to remove there's two here which we had to remove the pulley here which is nothing more than just 13 millimeter head run the nut out in the pulley and the nut and that bulk come right out you have a bolt here and then this was the nut that Ike was mentioning earlier you take that off because that stud runs through from the head all the way through the power steering pump to the bracket and once we take these three out we can back this out now I noticed on this one normally there's a bolt right here it's more like that's what you're going to run into when you pull the AC compressor up this one in particular was missing we'll replace that when we put it back together but look for a bolt here too that you're gonna need to remove to take the bracket out take the bolts out and then we're going to just take this bracket with the power steering lines and everything and set it right down in the hall I'm right up against the cardboard protecting our radiator and that moves that out of the way without having to break open the power steering system we drain any fluid out of it so now you see the bracket out of the way you can see how much room you develop there and now we're gonna move over to the other side we're going to centrally I've been taking the long-handled 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a 13 millimeter socket on it and use that to basically break loose the bolts from there but most cases they'll come right out and you have a ground cable we're gonna disconnect this there's gonna be a 10 millimeter head bolts on this bracket right here holding the cables in place we're gonna remove that take this bolt out to remove the belt tensioner and we're gonna take this bolt out to remove this lower pulley because we're going to replace this pulley anyway just pull your shot and then once we run this bolt and this bolt out what we'll need to do is take a pry bar to get the alternator out because we have what's basically an expanding socket in here so that when we tighten these bolts it blocks everything down in place and you'll see once I get it off I'll explain a little bit further alright so now doing the passenger side bracket in the alternator and the cables and why not I started a new little container here so I control the parts in two things I'll know the alternator bolts because when we go to put this back together you want to be able to easily identify what went where and that one normally what I do is like with the tensioner and the pulley I leave the bolt right in it and I just stash that to the side so this way I know there's one two less bolts I need to identify the bolts for the alternator you'll notice have a goldish tone because these are anodized the rest of them you'll see are more of a silver color on the shaft but the two bolts that go for the alternator have a gold-tone so they're easy to identify and you want to be careful with this because when you're trying on the bottom side of this you have these fins so you don't want to put too much effort on that to break a pin get to the hardware now we disconnected the battery because otherwise if we didn't this Cable will be 12 volts hot which means you touch this to ground anywhere you're gonna get a lot of sparks so battery's disconnected we're safe there we got a 13 millimeter nut holding the cable on and then a 10 millimeter nut for your field wire we're gonna remove both of those and we have the alternator out of the way so next step is going to be the removal of this bracket the alternator mouth we've already disconnected the 10 millimeter head bolt so we've got this this mount is disconnected we have the cables disconnected at least on the heart and you'll notice now before we can remove this bracket we have another bracket off of this cooling tube right in front of it so we're going to need to remove this coin tube and that's nothing more than three 10 millimeter head bolts here here and then one underneath we'll get that out of the way and then I'll show you the four bolts you need to remove to remove this bracket just to note on the back side of this where it attaches to the intake manifold there is an o-ring we want to make sure we get the old one out of there and then you'll be getting a new one when you get your gasket set so you can discard this and I wouldn't reuse these anyway never you reuse an old o-ring so before I take them out you just want to show you the locations of the four bolts that hold this bracket in we have one two three right here and four just below it into the right we take those four bolts out and this mounting bracket comes right out now I had mentioned earlier as far as the sliding studs that hold the alternator in you can take a small hammer and tap what looks like a flat washer an inch in open the area you'll tap these in a little bit because they're mounted on rubber you might would even shoot a little penetrating oil on it before you do that and then this way when you go to put the alternator back in you'll have a little bit of free space and you won't have to try to hammer the alternator back in it'll drop right in put your bolts in and when you tighten them up it'll move this a barrel so that it locks in against the alternator all right so it's gonna take that out of the way and we'll have basically everything out of the front of the engine that we need to remove so here's the bracket removed and like we mentioned earlier so that we don't get basically lose track of what bolts go where you'll just leave the bolts sit and right in their holes and we'll set the bracket down to the side and now there won't be any back together so now that we've taken care of what's in the front of the motor and now we're gonna start looking at and disassembling the top end next we'll obviously going to be the upper intake manifold now I'm gonna go through the basics as far as the stuff that's going to be common to both the the vehicles not equipped as this is with secondary air and then we'll also touch base on some of the additional items that you need to remove off of this when you if you do have a no.3 204 with a 4 6 secondary air or even the 4 liter with California emissions they'll have secondary air so begin with we're gonna get the throttle cable out of the way where we can just lift up and that will pull up the throttle and open it will turn the will turn this barrel and there's a small opening right here that will allow you to sneak the cable out we'll just hold that open and let's make the front cable out the front and we'll snake the back cable out the back then we're gonna disconnect these two bolts right here and then we can move both cables right out of the way next is going to be removing the 2 : hoses that go to the throttle body heater now you'll notice on this this has got two regular clamps on them but they call a worm gear clamp original equipment it will be a squeeze clamp like we saw right here and like we've disconnected up top where we just put it all underneath and we lift it and pop it in this case I'll need a Phillips screwdriver we'll take these two off be careful with this plastic hose it it becomes very brittle just like we discussed on the one that runs across the top of the radiator so when you're going to move it over just be a little careful on its movement try not to twist it or catch it on anything so we're just gonna back those clamps up and we're gonna pull those two hoses off so file cable out of the way we've got a two hose is disconnected next what we're gonna do is this is the vacuum line to feed your brake booster and this has got nothing more than a quick disconnect you'll see a little holding bracket right here matter of fact you may want to take a picture of that so when you go to put this back together you know which way it goes so we'll pop that up and that'll pivot on there now we're going to push in you can take a pair of needle-nose or a regular pair of pliers you're gonna hold that red cap in against the manifold and then pull the hose out and that moves that out of the way more than likely there should be a clamp here or something to seal off this is another vacuum line there actually this is a breather hose and we'll move that out of the way and always check this little plastic nipple these loosen up on quite a few vehicles which can create a vacuum leak now is a good time before you take it off just snug it in or you can take it off put a little sealer on the thread and run it back in that would just take a 9/16 or fourteen millimeter wrench on that and that comes right out that just threads in the manifold so then by doing this it exposes this little bolt right here which holds your two heater hoses on to the intake manifold and then another down here right underneath this tube and we're gonna take that out so that we can move this hose in this line right up out of the way so we've taken the bolt out from below the heater hose line going into the intake manifold we've taken the top bolt out and we've moved that outer hose down and tucked it underneath the cruise control motor that just holds it out of the way the harness we've got sitting here we'll worry about later now at this point this tucks into an o-ring into the manifold and these usually will stick in there pretty good so what you'll essentially need to do give it a couple wraps that kind of loosen things up a little bit and then we're going to take a straight blade screwdriver and you can just get in behind that and what we're gonna do is just keep working that and you may actually Bend this bottom tab a little bit and don't worry about that you can just hammer it right back down it's not gonna do any real damage just say like I said these do stick in pretty good and we'll just keep working it a little bit what you can do if it's really got a tight one you can back it out a little bit to create an opening and we'll shoot some penetrating oil down in there let it sit about five ten minutes and then this should pull right out all right so now we're on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold and the basically the last things we need to take off of this one there's going to be this breather hose right here this will pull off the the nipple you have your throttle position sensor with your connector right here pop that connector out by just twisting this little tab and push down on the connector that takes that out then we have the vacuum line that feeds the purge valve for the evaporative control that has to squeeze buttons on this connector you're going to squeeze on both sides that will take that out we can basically pop that out of its holder right here and then we're going to disconnect that electrical connector and this way we then can take this part of the harness and work it around through the other side of the vehicle now I'm taking their vacuum line off of the purge for the purge valve as they said there's a button on each side of this connector and they're a little difficult to get at this is a tool that's made actually for removing trim plastic trim buttons and whatnot on trim and fender wells and why not and I find by simply by design this grabs right around both sides and you can push both buttons in then work that right off it makes that job a lot easier and you can actually use the same tool when we go to disconnect the fuel line off the back of the lower intake and we'll get to that later now next step is to remove the upper intake manifold now on this vehicle it's not equipped with secondary air but you'll find like on California models with secondary air and with o3 2:03 and o4 4.6 that they also have secondary air so what you'll be dealing with they'll be actually a valve sitting on a a white tube sitting here and here and it will be held in place by two studs with two ten millimeter nuts on the side of the upper intake now I found it to make it easier on the removal have taken removed the nuts and then remove the studs that are left and then what this will do is allow you to raise the upper intake without having to completely disassemble the the diverter valves now the valve sit on two corrugated pipes that are attached to two tubes that are threaded into the heads and I found the best way on those is if you take a long punch and give the big nut at the base of that y tube where it attaches to the adapter to the head you give that a couple good sharp wraps and generally they will just come right loose and come right out then you can take the vowels out out of the way there'll also be a large vacuum harness that runs across the front and over to a control valve that would sit right about here and then you also would have a sort of oval egg-shaped black plastic container here that would also have two vacuum lines to it and you would just disconnect that at this point because now your alternator and your AC compressor out and you can move that and I just wanted to give you a brief rundown on that I'm sorry we don't have one here to show you but the explanation I just gave should give you a pretty good idea what you need to do now in this vehicle and then also with the type with the secondary air once you've gotten that the tubes and the valves out you're just going to remove for ten millimeter head bolts in the center and there's another ten millimeter down in the back and another ten millimeter Center front there are also two small eight millimeter if they're the original bolts two small eight millimeter bolts that attach the top of the coil bracket to the upper intake and you're just going to sneak down in there with an extension what you can do is pop out the throttle cable to move that over and then there are spring clips that hold this wiring harness in rolling this forward we can get straight in with an extension to get to those two back bolts so that's what we're going to do now and we're gonna lift this upper intake out so we have everything unbolted so we're just gonna pop this up we're gonna lift up a little bit so it clears the there's actually a locating dowel about 3/4 of the way in under here you also gonna have an electrical connector on the backside of the idle air control motor you just squeeze there's a little bar that runs across you squeeze that and pull that connector off and then shoot for you I'll pull the upper intake off so what you have remaining is the lower intake we have the 8 electrical connectors to the all the injectors and then the ignition coil we're gonna remove and then we can access the fuel line down below now the this coil has got a small 8 millimeter head bolt here and then one here once you disconnect those you can lift this up a little bit and there's also an electrical connector on each side which also has a little spring bar that you can press and release it from the coil so that's the next thing we're going to do is we're going to pull we're gonna disconnect it all the spark plug wires off the spark plugs on both sides disconnect and remove the two bolts lift this up take the two connectors out and then we can take the ignition coil and a wires out one assembly now on this particular vehicle and actually on some of the original equipment there gray wires the number of the cylinders numbered right on the wires before you start pulling these off make sure yours are numbered if they are and tag them so that when you go to put this back together you do n don't you would end up putting them back in the right sequence alright then what I've done in this trick works really nice your two air conditioning lines in the back this is very bendable very mobile metal it's generally a high-tensile aluminum so we're just gonna actually pop them back just a little bit you can use a piece of wood what this does essentially it gives us just enough clearance to sneak that coil out of there because it is pretty tight pretty tight fit the other way you can do is to unbolt the on lower intake and slide it forward a little bit and slide this out but I'm just used to doing it this way and it works and we disconnected the two wires off the side and we're just gonna lift that right up and out of there let's pull the wires through if you've tagged your wires just be careful not to pull your tags off so just to show you here here's our electrical connector on one side you see the little metal bar across the top you're just gonna press down on that till you hear it click and that pops right off and we'll do the same to the other and we lift the coil right up and out of there what we're gonna do now is then we're gonna disconnect the electrical connections to the injectors and we should be able to move this engine harness right up and out of the way so now we're down to the lower intake which is going to be nothing more than 13 millimeter head bolts all the way down the line we've got two four six and then six on the other side we've popped off the injector wire and you just kind of moved everything out of the way which really opens up the work area gives you plenty of room to work we're going to take all those bolts out break the lower intake loose because they get they stick on pretty well and move it forward maybe about an inch or so so we can reach down in the back and we're going to disconnect the fuel line and we can have that lower intake out we're at the point now we wonder we've got this all unbolted and as I say these stick and they stick pretty good so what we're gonna do is going to take a flat blade screwdriver you can use a hard scraper or whatnot we're going to get down at an angle from here and the reason we don't want to start here or hit into this because we have a water jacket right here on the intake manifold and we definitely don't want to do any cut any gouges or create any depressions where the gaskets gonna have a hard time sealing so we're just going to run this straight down let's do stick a little bit so now we're gonna reach in the back and all we need to do now is just disconnect that fuel line in the back and we can pull this right up and out alright so down the back behind the lower intake you can see the fuel line comes up and then goes to this connector right here and this is going to be similar to that solenoid that we disconnected earlier you get a little push button right here and then there's one identical to it on the other side just reach down squeeze those two tabs and usually works better if you grab the connector push into the tube squeeze the two buttons and it should come right out next step is going to be removing the valve covers now on the valve covers you've got four bolts and they are eight millimeter 12-point so you're gonna need an eight millimeter or a 5/16 12 point socket preferably quarter-inch drive so that'll fit down that little well that they put the bolts into and that's I sort of have a long swivel which works really well and you're gonna just remove the four bolts and give it a tap now on the driver's side you have a small Phillips head screw that holds the dipstick onto the valve cover now once you take the screw out I found that if you use a carburetor cleaner or a varnish remover and just squirt some down on the bottom of this you're gonna let it sit for a minute and you should be able to work that right up and out of the blocks and get it out of your way so we're gonna take the driver's side off first and once we take the two bolts out on the inner and then we're going to take a short stubby Phillips so we'll take that little screw out that's right on the side here and then we'll take the two bottom bolts out and lift this valve cover right out so we'll move the harness out of the way we've taken the four bolts out we took the screw out of the dipstick and we're just gonna lift this up and away throw the old gasket away and you can see in here we've definitely have had some coal and oil mix in there that's what that milky color is so we're on the right track working our way down to the heads and we're gonna see what those gaskets look like we get them apart another good thing to do take a quick look up top see the condition of the rockers see if anything is odd or out of place looks good just needs to be cleaned off and that's the other thing too is if you have the opportunity I don't know what facilities you have but if you have a local engine shop or whatnot it would be good idea even if you don't have the parts rework at least have them hot tanked cleaned off this way all the gasket surfaces are clean the upper surfaces are clean and just generally won't look a lot better - when you get it done so we're gonna move this out of the way and I can say with the dipstick there fortunately this one nice and loose you just grab the little bracket and just work that back and forth and pull that right up and out on the block and we'll move that out of the way next step is now we're going to take the rocker arms off now remember that you're going to have spring pressure on some of these because of the valve and the camp positioning so when you back these four bolts off you have one two three and four you're gonna back them off just a little bit at a time start from the middle and work your way outward and then just back it out if you end up taking one out completely and then the other can cause a twist and I've even seen it where it snapped the rocker shaft and because it created too much tension so we're gonna take these out a little bit at a time we're going to do both sides take the pushrods out now usually it's recommended that you're going to want to put the push rod back in the same position it was in when you go to put the engine back together because not the the way the push rod seats in the rocker they're not going to be identical all the way down the line it's going to be a little bit different wear on it sometimes that can create a little noise in the engine so when you take the push rods out number on my mark them with a piece of tape or whatever so when you're going to put it back together they go back in the same way so we've taken our rockers off we've pulled the push rods mark your oil your push rods you'll probably feel that when you pull them up you yanked a couple of lifters out which is fine because the next step is going to be pulling the intake gasket out and it's just a matter of this bolt right here and then one identical in the back half-inch socket zip those out we're going to take these two top block downs off and then with a scraper we can just work our way around and lift the whole paint assembly right up and out and then at that point we'll be ready to take the heads off so we're just going to zip this off all right so let me just gonna take a scraper and whip this up now a note the two bolts that you took out of this the one in the front in the back has a different thread than any of the other bolts in this engine they went with a 5/16 coarse thread bolt so you want to make sure that you either mark them or keep them separate or just that you understand by looking at them that you're going to have to use those two same bolts in this position you can't use them anywhere else in the edge so just on that note get this scraped up pull this out of here and you'll see a couple of lifters popped out which is fine because we're actually gonna we'll set them back in place if you're going to continue on after removing the heads to strip the block down probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the lifters in which case you want to take the new ones and soak them in a tub oil before you put them back in just to get them filled with oil okay so everything back there and we take our intake and we get rid of this and reuse it so the next step is to remove the heads now you had two approaches that we can do on this you can either disconnect the catalytic converters from the exhaust manifolds and once you take the head bolts out take the head and the manifold out one Paul or you could take the bolts out that attach the manifold to the head remove the head leaving the exhaust manifolds in place probably a matter what's more convenient for you as far as how to access it me and I have a lift I can get to the six bolts underneath is relatively easy if you're doing this on the floor then you may want to remove the exhaust manifold bolts now the exhaust manifold bolts are a twelve millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you have that style socket before you go taking this off now two things to look at before you take the heads off or before we even begin with the head bolts is there's a 13 millimeter head bolt in the back that in some cases early early Bosch will have no ground wire there but they will have the harness you can see that loop right there there was a bolt went through that into the head to hold the harness in place and then straight down in the back of the left side head is the connector for the cranks crank shaft speed sensor and that is going to be kind of inaccessible you're gonna have to take a long screwdriver you need to pop it out of a bracket that just simply a fork a bracket that holds that connector and you get in with a long screwdriver and what I just pop that out of there sometimes you can even be gonna pull just ahead and leave the exhaust you can break it loose move it forward just a little bit will give you a little bit better access but it's in a crazy place it's hard to get at but just so you know it's there so what we're gonna do is now we're gonna grab a breaker bar and five-eighths you 5/8 or 16 millimeter socket and we're gonna break all these head bolts loose and then I'm gonna put this up in the air and take the six bolts off the exhaust manifolds alright so as I said what we're gonna do is we're gonna disconnect there's three nuts on each side that will disconnect the exhaust manifold from the catalytic converters this is the way I prefer to take it off like I said you can do it from up top it's a little bit harder but if you don't have easy access underneath the vehicle then yes it'll be easier for you so what we're gonna do is they're half-inch you got three nuts on each side these actually look relatively clean we're gonna take those three off drop the vehicle back down and then we'll get the bolts out of the heads and then lift the heads right off the engine alright so as I mentioned before we've taken the six bolts out from underneath now just a note a lot of times because they've been down there and a number of these vehicles have been around for a while they will rust in place you may try to heat them up to take them out some of them we snap the stud in the manifold which it did in this case in a couple places if you're in a shop that's fine because when you pull the heads the manifolds are coming with it you'll have easy access to either drilling or blowing out with a torch if you don't have those facilities you can always just take the manifold off the head take it to a shop having new studs in it the studs are available on these so the next step is going to be now that we've got the bolt out of the back the connector for the crank position sensor out of the back now it's just a matter of there's ten head bolts now when you take them out you're going to notice the top three Center are going to be longer than the rest take that in note so when you go to put the new ones in and once we get the bolts out I'll show you a little trick on how to lift that up and out of there alright so when you're taking the head off one thing I wanted to mention there also that there's a braided ground strap right here this runs down in both to the back of the head you have a ten millimeter nut here you only need to take that nut out and you'll take the strap out with the head also this is the time when you're going to use that five ace Universal socket this is the one that you're going to need to get to that back bolt in this back corner otherwise this is really tough to get at and it's nice because the universal design limits the twist on it so you're not fighting against yourself trying to get it out of there so this is the point where you're going to use this tool and you really only need it just for that one bolt the rest of them will come out with it with a straight bolt with a straight socket now we've got all the head bolts out we've got the lower three bolts out we're going to show you a little trick I'm pulling the head because you're probably wondering okay now we've got the manifold in the head together have a fair amount of weight they're really not that bad so what we're going to do is we're going to reinstall the rocker shaft without the push rods because then we don't have to deal against any spring pressure why not and you don't even really even need to put the bolts in all the way just just about half way you have to support the weight without want any damage to any of the threads and I would suggest do all four don't just do the inner to the outer so this way all this should be the weight a little bit better all right so the trick is we're gonna take two shop rags now that we put the rocker back in place we put the bolts in about half way and we'll talk a couple shop rags just underneath the rail all right so we're ready to pull this out and what we've done is we're thinking to shop rags and tuck them underneath the rail so that you have a handle you say we've run these bolts in about half way it doesn't take it's not a lot of weight but it just makes it easier and then what we're gonna do is just lift straight up take the head right now all right so at this point we've got the head out just to show you here was that connector for the crank position sensor that you can see it's kind of in a very hidden spot and you'll notice that prior to that we've got all the wiring up out of the way so now is a good time they give the gasket an inspection to see if this was your culprit you can slowly peel this off you can see we've had a little bit of blow-by between the cylinders this may be the possibility of a cracked piston we'll have to clean that all off before we can make a determination it could just be water stain so we'll move our gasket up and out of the way and then now we're going to do the same thing with the head on the other side get both heads off and then we're going to do an inspection to see if we have a slip sleeve which these engines are notorious for it's an aluminum block with a steel sleeve that is not pinned or fastened down in any way shape or form from the manufacturer so there are times where they can get hot and the sleeves will move a little bit or the block can crack underneath the sleeve which you'll see traces of coolant so we're gonna go through a basic inspection on that and we'll show you how to do that so at the point now we want to do our clean up before reassembly and this is actually as critical as doing prep work for a good paint job you want to make sure you got everything clean you've done your inspection to see exactly what your cause was why you pulled the heads to begin with and what we found was of course the the back of by number eight cylinder the head gasket in this area between this coolant galley and the cylinder was drawn in : you can see how basically it's steam cleans the solder as opposed to the buildup and whatnot you have any other combustion chambers so what we're gonna do is we'll give you a few tips on how to clean this up usually if they're like really loaded up with grease and oil and whatnot and get some engine degreaser and a pressure washer you get it cleaned off you can see this is reach the level where that's acceptable to put back on we've taken the spark plugs out we have all the gasket surfaces out and essentially at this point all you really need to do is get the OL the gasket surface is clean and dry so that the new gaskets have a good surface to adhere to so what I normally like to do is I'll take a small scraper why not now this is aluminum so we're not going to dig we're just gonna basically write the the scraper over the top and just get the heavy stuff off and we'll do that all the way around until we get it all out we're going to keep this at a good low angle so that we're not digging into the aluminum at any point and then you'll do the same thing on your intake gasket area here now remember you have usually your intake port so these are : you definitely don't want to dig into the aluminum there and then on your exhaust side same thing you're gonna scrape off the heavy area and Buzz that off again it's good to have this the spark plugs out because we're gonna clean those holes out as well and then the next step would be you can take a small brass and I recommend brass not steel especially in the aluminum head and we'll just work our way around in the combustion chamber clean off the top of the valve you see it takes it off pretty easily and we'll get around up in there and then what I can do is you can do one of two things if you don't have air power which where I use a little angle head die grinder with the 3m what we referred to as a cookie and we'll end up buzzing all this off now this is basically example but on an aluminum head you would use a blue cookie they actually are made in several different coarseness and the blue is the very fine which is all you need to just basically take the surface down nice and clean you don't have the air power you can actually go out and buy a pair of scotch-brite again you know this is a very fine so this is what you want to use on aluminum and we'll use that to clean up the surface and then we do is if you don't have the the tool you can take it to a small machine shop or why not this is essentially an engine straight edge and this is actually an edge that is accurate to a half a thousandths of an inch and what you'll do is you're gonna place it in different angles on the head and then with a flashlight on the backside you're gonna look to see if any light is visible through the backside this is going to tell you have some warpage and you can tell how much by just sliding a feeler gauge in there until it's nice and snug but this is what we're going to use to basically test all the surfaces on both the head and the block and the preparation for the top of the block is going to be the same as this we're just gonna lightly scrape off the heavy stuff and then take the rest down at a 3m and the other thing you want to watch and the cylinder heads here and here these are your oil galleys that feed oil up to the rocker assemblies so you want to take a pipe cleaner or a small drill bit or whatever and just run it through there and you're going to find is usually gunk built up in there you want to make sure these are clean the same on the block you have these two galleys lined up in the same area same thing you can run a small drill down through it or a pipe cleaner just to get the gunk cleaned out of it dipped in mineral spirits does a really nice job cleaning it out and the mineral spirits do no harm when you eventually start the vehicle up this so little in there mix right in with the oil it doesn't cause a problem okay so essentially that's the rundown on cleaning up the head and I'll show you a finished product just to give you idea how you should look before you put it back together that's right so there you are you see you're basically your combustion chambers we've got all the heavy stuff cleaned out your gasket surface is nice and cleaned there's your intake surface again nice and clean we've put the straightedge on all of this and we determine that the heads are in good shape same thing on the exhaust and we have a nice clean glass you'll notice when you took the exhaust manifolds off some of the areas you're gonna find a double gasket it from the factory so take note of that where those double gaskets were because on some cases you may need to do that because the heads are nice and straight but the exhaust manifolds they're not built to the thousandths of an inch so sometimes one area is a little less pressure here to create a seal so they double gasket to make up for that so just keep that in mind other than that you just head and once we get that one done these heads will be ready to put back on the engine you
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