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oil change videos
Atlantic British Ltd. Repair & Maintenance Academy How-To Video:Watch our Land Rover Technician, Doug, explain the procedure for an oil change on a Defender 90, Discovery I and Range Rover Classic. Our oil change kit # ERR3340SKB includes two new oil filters, two new drain plugs and two new washers--enough for two oil change services, which should be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us live chat.
Kit #: ERR3340SKA Oil Change on Defender 90, 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on the oil change kit that we've put together for your maintenance and service program. Now this particular kit will work on the Defender 90, the Classics and the D 1s. And what we'll do is include enough for 2 oil changes. You do oil changes on a pretty regular basis, on a pretty regular mileage, usually much closer together than any other service on the vehicle. So it's good to have 2. Buy 2 at a time, you'll save yourself some money and some time. You will get 2 filters, 2 new drain plugs and 2 new drain plug gaskets. And I find, especially with the gaskets, it's very important. You really don't need this to be leaking after you just put 8 quarts of fresh fluid in your vehicle. That's our oil change kit. And what we're going to do is show you some basics as far as location of you oil filter and how to do a basic oil change. One of the most common services you're going to do to your vehicle is going to be the oil change. Now thankfully for because of the height of most Land Rover's from the ground you can easily get underneath. With a creeper you should be able to access this in your driveway, your garage. Those of you lucky enough with a lift, as we have, it does make it a lot easier. Very simple procedure. You want to take a bucket that will hold at least 6 quarts of oil, preferably 9. You want to leave yourself some space so when you're carrying it across the garage you're not spilling it all over the floor. The drain plug, in case of the D90. is actually a large inch and three sixteenth plug, on the drivers side of the vehicle, down at the bottom of the pan. We remove this plug. This has a copper sealing gasket on the back of the plug, you'll be receiving a new one with your kit. Always good to use a new gasket. You want this to seal up properly when you're done. Your oil filter is a screw on oil filter, front of the engine on the passenger side. You would use a strap wrench to remove this, When you go to install the new filter, I generally recommend take a quart of oil, fill the new filter up until the point where it's even with the gasket. Let it sit for a minute. You will see the oil absorb into the paper in the filter itself. This way it reduces the amount of time that your engine will run dry on your startup after you filled it with oil. That's pretty much an oil change. Simply a drain, refill and change the filter. We have recommendations that will show you the capacity, how much oil you should be using, What weight oil you should be using, and in the case of the D 90s, actually the climate that you live in will determine what oil you should be using. So again you can refer back to the new maintenance schedules and they will give you all this information. And that's pretty much it for oil changes.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, discuss the recommended oil change frequency on late model Land Rovers or Range Rovers. Land Rover’s recommended interval of 12K-15K oil changes on late model Rovers with synthetic engine oil is an often-discussed topic in the forum community. Many are saying, and We agree, that the frequency of changes should be half that (every 7,500 miles) or you risk causing long-term wear and damage to the engine. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Hi I'm Gareth, the tech support rep here at Atlantic British. Today in this video we're going to discuss oil change frequencies for Land Rover Range Rover models from 2003 to present day, whether it be Range Rover Sport, LR3 or LR4. A lot of people have been reading online about Land Rovers and talking about Rover oil change frequencies. People are saying that it's a long time between 12,000 and 16,000 miles to get there oil changes done. We agree with that. It's an awful long time to wait for an oil change. The extended oil change service frequencies on Range Rovers and Land Rovers these days are a little bit too extended. We feel they can unfortunately cause, you know, detrimental wear to engine components for things like timing chains, timing chain guides, etc, which can also lead to more severe failures possibly because of those extended service life. We feel like good oil change every sort of 7,500 miles is probably the best course of action and keep the engine and other components running to the best service capabilities. So when you're ready to do your oil change we have a number of kits for all the model Range Rovers which include enough oil to do the oil change, the relevant oil filter, O ring if needed, a new drain plug, and of course an oil change service reminder that sticks to the windshield. This kit is for the 5.0 v8 engine which is in the LR4 Full-Size Range Rover and Range Rover Sport. And when you're ready to order it please visit us online at Roverparts.com or there's a link you can go to on the screen. Or you can always call one of our friendly sales reps and talk to them about what model vehicle you have and what oil service kit you're going to need. The phone number is 800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a 2005-2009 LR3. Using oil change kit # LR007160SKA , which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK100, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker.
Kit #: LR007160SKA Performing Oil Change Service on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to do is touch base on the oil filter kit that we have available on the LR3s. This kits available through out repair and maintenance academy which you can go online, go to our website. You can print and download the whole schedule that we have available. You'll see first on the list for the oil change is LR007160SKA. This service is recommended every 7,500 miles, and it is probably the most common service that you're going to do on your vehicle. And you're going to do it on a pretty regular basis. So what we do is include 2 filters so that when you're ready for the next oil change your not constantly, you save yourself some money on the shipping. You'll have the part all ready there for when you're ready for your next oil change. And believe me, they sneak up on you fast. So what you're going to get is 2 oil filters that meet Land Rover specifications for the LR3. This is for the 4.0 V8. And then you'll also receive 2 new drain plugs which have the gasket, the O ring built into them. So you'll end up with a good seal on the pan. It's always good to replace the plugs. And then what we're going to do now is get this up in the air and we're going to show you the location of your filter, how to access it and location of your drain plug. Top it off. Get your level set and you're done. So when you're ready to do your oil change, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll set you up with our kit. And you can reach us at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using oil change kit # ERR3340SKA , which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles.
Kit #: ERR3340SKA Oil Change on Discovery Series II 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on the oil change kit that we've put together for your maintenance and service program. Now this particular kit will work on the Defender 90, the Classics and the D 1s. And what we'll do is include enough for 2 oil changes. You do oil changes on a pretty regular basis, on a pretty regular mileage, usually much closer together than any other service on the vehicle. So it's good to have 2. Buy 2 at a time, you'll save yourself some money and some time. You will get 2 filters, 2 new drain plugs and 2 new drain plug gaskets. And I find, especially with the gaskets, it's very important. You really don't need this to be leaking after you just put 8 quarts of fresh fluid in your vehicle. That's our oil change kit. And what we're going to do is show you some basics as far as location of you oil filter and how to do a basic oil change. One of the most common services you're going to do to your vehicle is going to be the oil change. Now thankfully for because of the height of most Land Rover's from the ground you can easily get underneath. With a creeper you should be able to access this in your driveway, your garage. Those of you lucky enough with a lift, as we have, it does make it a lot easier. Very simple procedure. You want to take a bucket that will hold at least 6 quarts of oil, preferably 9. You want to leave yourself some space so when you're carrying it across the garage you're not spilling it all over the floor. The drain plug, in case of the D90. is actually a large inch and three sixteenth plug, on the drivers side of the vehicle, down at the bottom of the pan. We remove this plug. This has a copper sealing gasket on the back of the plug, you'll be receiving a new one with your kit. Always good to use a new gasket. You want this to seal up properly when you're done. Your oil filter is a screw on oil filter, front of the engine on the passenger side. You would use a strap wrench to remove this, When you go to install the new filter, I generally recommend take a quart of oil, fill the new filter up until the point where it's even with the gasket. Let it sit for a minute. You will see the oil absorb into the paper in the filter itself. This way it reduces the amount of time that your engine will run dry on your startup after you filled it with oil. That's pretty much an oil change. Simply a drain, refill and change the filter. We have recommendations that will show you the capacity, how much oil you should be using, What weight oil you should be using, and in the case of the D 90s, actually the climate that you live in will determine what oil you should be using. So again you can refer back to the new maintenance schedules and they will give you all this information. And that's pretty much it for oil changes.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a LR2 2008-On. Using our Oil Change Kit # LR001419SKA, which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part#:LR001419SKA Oil Filter Replacement On LR2 / Freelander 2, 2008-On, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about oil changes in your LR2. This is for the 3.2 inline 6 cylinder that they used in the earlier years, before they added the 2 liter turbo 4 cylinder. So this kit in particular will be for the 3.2. This is a cartridge style filter. And this is all part of our maintenance and repair program that we have on our website. Which you can access and actually download the sheet. And it not only gives you oil change but all the other recommended maintenances you should be doing on that vehicle. And approximately the intervals you should be doing them at. So let's start with the most basic and the most prominent service you're ever going to do on any vehicle is going to be oil change. Oil change is very important. You're going to do it on a regular basis. Because of that what we've done is put a kit together that will give you 2 of each of what you'll need to do an oil change on your vehicle. This way when the next one sneaks up on you, you all ready have the filter and the plug that you need. Now what we're going to do now is going to show you the basics on how to change your oil on your LR2. All right, so the first thing we're going to do before we go to drain the oil is we want to remove or loosen that cap that's around that filter so that it will allow the oil that sits in that cartridge to drain. So what we need to do, is pull straight up on the power steering reservoir. It just slides into that bracket. And we're just going to move that out of the way there. Now, way down below is the cartridge and oil filter. And we're going to get on the cap of that with a 36 millimeter socket and a half inch drive ratchet and extension. It just unscrews off. All right, so what we're going to do is essential you can leave the filter in place, we're going to leave the cap there. We just wanted that loosened up so we could relieve the vacuum that might develop in there so we know that that's going to drain when we set this back down to change the filter.You want to make sure you put that power steering reservoir back in its place. Just going to lift up and slide it back into the bracket. Push down. We've got our oil filter on nice and tight. So at this point now you've got everything together. Remove our cap. A funnel also will help. You can pour it directly from the bottle. And we're going to put 8 quarts of oil in that. And that should set you right up. Set your level perfect. What I would suggest is any time you do an oil change, start the vehicle, let it run 5 minutes or so. Shut it down. Let it sit for a little bit. Double check for leaks. Check your level on your dipstick. And once your set and you're happy with what you've got. You make sure, obviously before you start it you're going to put your cap back on. You can now put the cover on. Usually wait to do the cover last. If you put it on ahead and you spill some oil now it's all over your cover. So it makes for a neater job. So when you're ready to do an oil change on your LR2, just give a call 1-800-533-2210. Can ask any of our knowledgeable salesman. Or if you'd like to purchase online you can click on this link and that will put you on our website where you can order the part. And if you like our video,s, then what we suggest is you can subscribe to our YouTube channel. And you can watch any of the videos that we all ready have out there. We've got quite a few so watch and enjoy. Anyway, thanks for watching and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using our oil change kit # LPW100230SKA , which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs and washers. It is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Full Size Supercharged, 2006 - 2009. Using oil change kit # LR007160SKA , which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK100, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using our oil change kit # LPW500030SKA , which includes the parts you need for two oil changes: two oil filters plus two drain plugs, it is recommended that this service be performed every 7,500 miles. You may also find that you need to replace the mounts on the oil filter housing with part # LYD000010OEM. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK200, which includes oil, oil filter, drain plug, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform a Service Interval Reset, a function that must be done on all 2006 and up Range Rovers and Land Rovers after an oil change service. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How To Use The iLAND App Service Interval Reset Demonstrated on 2016 Land Rover LR4. Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going cover some of the special functions that are available on the iLAND. We're going to do this as a series to help you understand how your iLAND works. In this particular case a lot of your later Land Rovers, and I'm going to say from 2006 and up, the majority of them require a tool to be able to access and reset your service interval, after you've done an oil change on that so that your reminder on the dash comes on at the proper time. So I want to show you how to get into that. Right now we're in a 2016 LR4. The function is going to be very similar throughout the entire line, the LR3, LR4, the Sports, the Full Size. Some of the other models like the LR2 whatnot will be a little different. Some of those have their own function built into the dash. But for most of them you're going to need a tool and the iLAND will do just that. So we've got our phone on. Now remember now this is on an iphone. If you have an Android you're going to have just the single iLAND icon. But if you have an iphone, you're going to end up getting 2. This one with the blue dot you are not going to use. You stay with the original icon for just iLAND. No blue dot. So essentially we're going to hit that. We've plugged in our dongle underneath. We see the blue light. We now we're powered up. We're going to turn the ignition on so that the iLAND or the dongle can communicate with the modules. So we're in an LR4. We'll hit that. And of course you have your garage disclaimers. We'll just hit accept and go through on that. So essentially now we've gone on. Now if I back this up, because this is not the screen you're going to end up on. You're going to end up on this screen. And what you go do, you can do a full system test. Just a quick test. And what that will do is run through all the modules that are communicable through the network. And the ones that come up in red are going to have faults. You want to investigate those while you're in there, to take a quick look at it. But for this purpose and for this video we'll go to Power Train Control Module. It's going to hook up and connect. You're going to see your different functions that are available. We'll hit special functions. Now at the top you're going to see service interval reset. For the gas engine and basically US and north american spec vehicles that's what we're going to use. Oil counter reset is strictly for the diesels. And that's going to essentially be overseas, european. So we're going to hit service interval reset. We know you have the ignition on. Make sure all our dash lights are on. Resetting service intervals, press ok to continue. And it's going to communicate with the module. And it's going to reset that back for the specified mileage. So there it is. It's reset. It's complete. Ignition state. We're going to turn it off. It's asking us to turn it off. Now it's asking us to turn it on, and that's basically setting it up and syncing it basically into the power train control module. Turned it on. Now it's going to say clear fault memory. Actually because we have a fault on there we don't want to clear it. We want to go back and be able to look at it. So we're going to hit no at this point. If you had no fault codes then you can hit yes and it will just continue and go about. So again it's asking trouble codes clear reset aborted. That's ok. Set ignition switch to off. And then we're back to our special functions. And then we can have that arrow in the top left. We hit that. And that will put us back on to our choices. This is just taking a little bit longer. There we go. Then we go back to LR4. Hit accept. Make sure ignition is on. So now if you want to go back through it and actually what it did is actually it did clear the code so it had to do with something with the reset. So as I said you can go through your others. And that will be shown in other videos as we go along. So for now we've basically shown had to set up and reset your service interval. And what that is is just simply a reminder it will let you know when your next oil change is due. And sometimes we lose track of that. And it's always good to get a reminder. So when you're ready to order a tool that will help you do the service interval reset and more, you can just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order the tool online. And if you like our how to videos you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and get more information. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, point out the locations of the oil filter and drain plug for a Range Rover Sport, 2014. Using oil filter kit # LR011279SKA , which includes 2 new oil filters and O-rings, and 2 new drain plugs, it is recommended that an oil change be performed every 15,000 miles. This service applies to 2010-On Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Sport Supercharged. We also offer money-saving kit # OCK150 , which includes oil, oil filter, and o-ring, PLUS NEW reminder sticker. Be sure to use the correct oil to refill your vehicle. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in changing the air filter on a Defender 90 1997 . It is recommended that the air filter be replaced every 30,000 miles.
Part #: RTC4683 Replacing Air Filter Element On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to be covering the air filter replacement for your D90 as part of our service and maintenance kits. Now, this particular kit that you would be ordering for your D90 is going to be filter element kit RTC4683. As you can see by the chart recommended every 30,000 miles. So with this kit you'll be receiving this air filter. We're going to show you how to install the air filter yourself. It's a relatively easy job, only takes a few minutes. We're going to show you how to install the air filter element into the 1997 D90. Now this is going to be the filter you receive and this is kit # RTC4683. Nothing more than a paper element, rubber seal on both sides. Again, this is recommended to be done every 30,000 miles. If you do more off-roading or dusty areas, you probably want to do it less, 15 - 20 thousand. Air filter is critical as far as engine reliability and fuel economy. So what we are going to do is set the box aside. I always recommend if you are working over the fenders, especially on a D90 with the aluminum fenders you want to drape a nice fender cover over the top. This is one of our Atlantic British foam fender covers. You're going to reach in, and you have three clips that hold this intake housing on. Now the one in the back is a little on the tight side. And you can usually clip it out. Once you get the top two out you can sometimes flip these out without having any problems. Inside, looks like we have an 11 millimeter nut. Now this is a nylon locking nut so that the filter doesn't slide out from there. The nut that retains that, you can use either a seven sixteenth or an eleven millimeter socket, depending on what you have in your tool box. We're going to run that nut off. It's going to be a little tight because it is designed to be that way, so it doesn't back off on its own. Once you feel the nut loosen up, reach in and put your hand in underneath it because you don't want it dropping out of the socket and falling down back in behind the engine. You could end up spending more time chasing a nut down than changing the filter. Set your tool down. As a recommendation, do not set any tools down on the top of the Defender fender. These aluminum fenders if you put a little bit of weight on them it will actually leave an impression in them. That's why the fender cover. That's why you never lay your tools on top of them. Reach in. Pop out the cover. Pull your heater hoses up out of the way. Don't worry about bending it a little bit you're not going to reuse it anyway. Now that's a reasonably dirty filter. Most cases you see one like this, you probably want to change it. You can see where you have enough build up on the paper where it's going to restrict air intake. Just take that - we'll discard that one. One hand back, hold your hoses. It doesn't matter which way you install it. The gasket's the same on both sides. Slide it in all the way until you feel it seat. Reinstall your cap and you should feel it - it will seat right up against that rubber gasket. Reinstall your nut. Now you don't need to make your nut super tight, you just want it good and snug. Too tight and you could end up doing some damage to the air filter. Just make sure that you're tight up against the filter so we have a good tight seal. Now the snorkel, or the intake, there's no indentations. There's no anything there that's going to make this a one shot installation. In other words it isn't indexed. We can just basically put it on, slide that in there, slip the top 2 on because they're the easiest to get at. Reach in underneath, pull the clip forward, and the snap back, and we have all 3 on there nice and tight. Now you have a good air filter on there. And as I said it is recommended every 30,000 miles you should change that filter. Again if you go off-road or you're in a dusty area, maybe once every 20,000. But it's a good idea to check it every other oil change. That's an air filter installation on a D90. This is with the 4 O engine. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential, transfer case, axle oil, swivel housing service on a 1997 Defender 90. In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differentials and transfer case, and a very in-depth, step-by-step service to the front swivel ball joints. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 30,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs. The referenced kit can be found here.
Part #: DTCM500A Performing the Differential, Transfer Case, Axle Oil, Swivel Housing Service On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and as part of our service and maintenance kits we're going to show you the maintenance program involved with changing differential, transfer case axle oil, swivel housing service kit number DTCM500A. And this kit is essentially going to be giving you the fill plugs, the drain plugs, and all the fluids that you need, with the proper capacities, to change the fluids in the differentials, in the transfer case and in the front swivel joints.Should you need any of the kits I would suggest you call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential, transfer case, and axle oil service ( using complete Kit # DTCM600C ) on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. In this video, Doug will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential and transfer case, and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 30,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs.
Kit # DTCM600C Differential, Axle, and Transfer Case Maintenance Kit on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech service representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to show you the transfer case and differential fluidchange kit that we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy. This will be for your 1999 - 2004 Discovery 2 and you'll get the fluid and capacity of fluid to refill your front and rear differentials and your transfer case. And replacement plugs - your 2 magnetic catch plugs. Your fill plugs for your differentials. Your drain and refill plugs for the transfer case. And new sealing rings. Now this is the sheet that we have for our repair and maintenance academy. This is accessible, downloadable and printable right off of our website. You're in Kit F. Again listing all the parts that are going to be included. And this is Kit DTCM600C. And again this will give you all the fluid you need to do a simple drain and refill on the fluids. This is a really good thing to do on a regular maintenance. Just over a period of time, just natural condensation can build up in the transfer case and differentials. You do lose a little bit of fluid out of these because they will evaporate. They are petroleum based fluid and there are vented differentials and a vent in the transfer case. So again, every 60,000 miles change the fluids. And in a minute I'm going to show you where all your drain plugs and your fill plugs are so you can do this maintenance yourself. And that's pretty much it. And it's a good maintenance to do. It will help your vehicle last longer. And when you're ready to change over your fluids give any of our knowledgeable salesman a call at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in replacing the fuel filter on a 1997 Defender 90 . Using kit # ESR4065, it is recommended that the fuel filter be replaced every 45,000 miles on a D90.
Kit #: ESR4065 Installing Fuel Filter On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video what we are going to touch base on is replacement of the fuel filter as part of your service and maintenance kits. What you will be getting in that kit is simply the fuel filter itself which is all that's needed. And this filter will be used in the Defenders, Discovery 1, P38 Range Rover and the Classic. Now what we'll do is show you how to install this filter and where to access this on the different vehicles. Now we are going to show you how to install the fuel filter. This is on a 97 D90. Your location will be pretty much the same on the one tens. Your fuel filter is your passenger side frame rail, just about between the front and rear axles. Held in place by 1 bolt and a pinch loop. And you have fittings on both sides. On the original equipment you're going to find that the fitting is going to take a thirteen sixteenth or a 21 millimeter wrench. The hose line is going to take a five eighths. Now, keep in mind, that even after you shut the vehicle down you are going to have fuel pressure in there, so you want to go up front to the Schrader valve and release it or put a pan underneath, just crack it loose, let it drip, bleed out until you no longer have any fuel dripping out, and then continue to replace your filter. Now the replacement filter, this unit here, which we've shown you in the beginning, showing what kit is included on the fuel filter. This is ESR4065. Inside the plastic protectors there is a copper ring. So when you take this out of the box, and you take these off, make sure you hold on to that ring. You could always drop this. If you don't know it's there you could drop it and lose it. You will need that to seal these up. You'll have one at both ends. Replacement of the filter is nothing more than just simply unbolting and rebolting. Now this is tapped into threads that are tapped into the frame so you can just put a wrench into this, take that loop out. I find that if you take, you're going to be turning this fitting down to loosen. So you set your wrenches like so. And with a little hand pressure you'll just crack it lose. I can see we have a little dirt and what not coming out of there. But one more turn and we'll end up. Now, take in mind, right here, this nut is designed to spin on this piece of tubing. If it doesn't, which more than likely if it has been a couple years since you've change the filter you're going to have some corrosion built up on that, what I would recommend is before you even get into changing this, get some penetrating oil, soak this down. Let it set for about 5 or 10 minutes and if it is still tight and still turning the rubber hose because you don't want to break this hose. This is part of fuel line. It goes all the way up to the engine. If you break that you're going to have to replace the line or make a makeshift replacement, which generally isn't recommended. You can give this a tap a couple of times with a hammer. Just get a small hammer, give a wrap just to break things lose. And this should eventually work lose. And if it doesn't even right away, just by working back and forth. Eventually it will crack lose and you'll be able to change it. And you're going to do the same thing on the back side. Take that nut out. You can take the whole filter out. Slide it out of the loop. Slide the new filter in. Now the original - like I said this is going to be thirteen sixteenth or 21 millimeter - the replacement filter on these fitting ends is three quarter or 19 millimeter. And you'll see at the end of the filter it tells you out. And that's indicating that's the side that's going to facing the engine. So it will be installed in that position. You don't want to get it backwards, it will reduce the efficiency of the filter. And that's pretty much a fuel filter change over. And you really should do that every 30,000 miles especially up in the northeast, with the grade of fuel we have I find that 30,000 miles is just about where you want to be when you change these, and you should do this on a regular basis. Again, helps engine performance and fuel economy. And if you want to change over the filter on your D90 you can get a hold of any of our knowledgeable salesmen. At 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in performing the PCV Tune-Up Service on a 1997 Defender 90. Using our money-saving PCV kit # 9205G , with everything you need to do this service, it is recommended that the PCV system be replaced every 30,000 miles.
Kit #: 9205G Installing PCV Tune Up Kit On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to cover the replacement of the PCV maintenance on your D90, which will be the 4 liter with the GEMS system. What you will get with this kit - PCV kit number 9205G, and it is recommended to do every 30,000 miles - is 2 rubber hoses, this will be your feed hose and your breather hose, and your oil separator. And we're going to show you how to install this and also how to clean the area up so that it works better, or basically as new. So now we're going to show you how to install the PCV tune-up kit. It consist of nothing more than 2 hoses and your oil separator. Again, anything you do on these it's always best to put a fender cover down to protect your paint. And the fact that these are aluminum you also don't want to set any tools down or put any hard weight on top of these. They can leave an impression. We'll take our light and move the hose out of the way. What we're going to do is - this is your vacuum hose, it feeds the PCV. This does nothing more than plug into a nipple on the bottom of the intake manifold. You can take this out and clean it out or even just take a small drill run it up through pipe cleaner. Anything just to make sure this hasn't been clogged up with any oil vapor or residual varnish. On the other end of the hose, and down inside this socket, we have the oil separator. Now this consists of nothing more than just a little plastic corrugated piece of material that drops down in. Now as original equipment they crimp the top so that this can't be lifted out and up by vacuum. What you will probably do is have to take a pair of pliers or a pair of needle nose and pull that back out round so you can pull this out. Now I've found that in some cases you can fit a drill around the inside of this and literally drill the plastic. You only want to do that with the valve cover off. The plastic can drop down inside - you don't need that. But for the most part you are going to basically uncrimp this. And I'll show you - we can take a pair of needle nose pliers. What you can do is take a pair of needle nose pliers, drop it down inside. 2 hands. Try to spread the legs of the pliers and spin it around. The metal is soft enough where it will slowly work its way out. And it takes a little bit of work. And eventually what you'll do is get that round. In most cases you will probably be breaking this piece out in chunks. They get some varnish build up in them. They get stuck in place. That's basically the main reason you want to clean them. After you get it out, you can take a small bottle brush, brass brush or whatever, dip it in some solvent, penetrating oil works good, run it in and out to break up that varnish. Install your new piece. And when you install it, one end. One end has a stem. The other is flat and flush. The stem will be the part sticking up and you will see that in this one right here. Essentially at this point you have uncrimped the top of that collar. You've broken out, drilled out, whatever, the plastic insert in there, the oil separator. And you've installed your new vacuum hose. You've run a pipe cleaner or a small drill through the pick up so you know that that's clear and you're getting full vacuum. And now we'll move onto the other side where we have one other hose to replace. Right here is your breather hose. Essentially what happens with the PCV, which is positive crankcase ventilation, the restricted vacuum due to the separator on this side is going to create vacuum in the engine down in the crankcase area and up in the valve covers. At the top, you need a breather. Essentially there needs to be air in and air out so that there's a flow of fresh air running through the crankcase to alleviate any corrosive gases that build up and crankcase pressure. This one is nothing more than just an unplug. You have an open port here, an open port here. Small bottle brush, brass brush, it's nice to put a little penetrating oil on it. Brush both of them out so you have a good clean, open surface. Reinsert your hose, put your new hose on. And now you've just tuned up your PCV system. This kit can be bought by calling any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out. You can reach us at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in the spark plug and tune up service on a 1997 Defender 90. Using kit # 9207, which includes 8 spark plugs and a set of ignition wires , it is recommended that this service be performed every 30,000 miles on a D90.
Kit #: 9207 Installing the Spark Plug & Tuning Kit on Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and as part of our service and maintenance kit program we're going to show you the kit that you will be receiving for your tune-up segment on your Defender 90. Now that is going to be kit number G. Kit number is 9207. And you'll be receiving our most popular spark plugs cable set. These are cut to match the same length as the original equipment. Also pre numbered so you know what cylinder they go on, and a full set of Champion spark plugs. In a few minutes we will show you how to install that on your vehicle. Okay, so now we're going to give you the basics on the installation for the spark plug wire and spark plug tuning kit. This is kit 9207, this is for the 1997 D90 with the 4 liter GEMS engine. Now if you are not sure if you have GEMS or BOSCH - which you wouldn't have a BOSCH engine in the Defender, but there are other models that would have both - you can go to our previous videos and our friend Jim will show you what the difference is between the GEMS and BOSCH engines. What we're going to do on this is essentially - and this is relatively easy. If you have ever changed spark plugs, these have the thirteen sixteenth head plugs, these are not the smaller five eighths. I usually recommend because I've noticed a lot of these spark plugs don't come with the cardboard protection any more. Before you install a plug, you always want to check the gap. Take 10 seconds now to save yourself a half hour later. And it's nothing more than a relatively inexpensive gauge. You can get these at any automotive center. One side will have this broken into fractions of an inch. The other side will be metric. And in this case they actually give you an English version of the gap which is point zero three three to point zero three eight. So you just want to slide that over and up. Now you can see you are actually a little on the high side here. So you just want to give it a tap. Knock it down a little bit. And now we are point zero three seven which is perfect, we are within the range. So now we can install this plug. We're going to show you how to change a plug and put your spark plug wires in. Now change the plugs - I usually find if you haven't done this on a regular basis you're going to do this just one cylinder at a time. It's much easier. Now on this particular engine, the four o and the four six, the cylinder location is going to be the same on both. And you're going to have your even number cylinders on the right hand side, which will be 2, 4, 6 and 8 and your odd number cylinders on the driver side. 1, 3, 5 and 7. What's nice about these sets and actually the original equipment wires will be marked with the number cylinder that they correspond to. So, when you take this apart and doing one at a time, you can remove your spark plug, you know what number cylinder you have, trace your wire back, there's your location on the coil, remove that one wire and then when you're done changing the spark plug re-install your new wire with that corresponding number. And then you're going to do each one all the way around. We have our thirteen sixteenth swivel head socket, long extension, our spark plug is off, our spark plug wire. We're going to slide this down, hook up to the plug. Now this one may come out reasonably easy. We actually just recently put plug wires and plugs in this vehicle. You're going to put a little arm behind it. Now if you don't have the swivel head socket and you don't have the long extension, you can get down there with a ratchet and a regular straight socket, spark plug socket and a short extension. And fortunately on these there's quite a bit of room to get down in there so you'll have plenty of room to work. Now again I'm going to keep reiterating being that this is a Defender, you don't want to be putting anything down outside of this mat, and definitely nothing heavy on top. These aluminum fenders can imprint. Now, there's essentially our plug. This is a relatively new plug. But if you are doing spark plugs on your vehicle now's a good time to read the plugs. It will give you a good idea as to how your vehicle is running. We have a nice even tan burn. We have a little bit of carbon built up which is normal. No heavy soot. And no bright white porcelain which would tell you that you are running lean. No heavy soot that will tell you that you are running rich. This is a good running plug. Now as I said, we just recently put plugs in this so we're going to put this spark plug back in. But I'll show you a nice little trick, just in case it gets a little awkward and I found this works especially well on vehicles with tight space. This is a piece of three eighths heater hose. Basically four or five inches. You can actually use a much longer piece if you want. It fits just right over the porcelain of the plug. This gives you a little bit extra reach. Feel around. You feel the plug settle into the hole. Because trying to get your fingers down in there where the spark plug is could be a little tight. And you feel it will drop right in. And simply spin the hose. The plug will thread in. Now in this case this is threading in fairly easy because as I said this is all new, a fairly new plug. You can wet the end of your new spark plug a little bit. you can put a little drop of penetrating oil on there so that it threads in all the way. And you'll feel it when the plug stops turning. Simply pull the hose back off. Slide your socket back on. Reset your ratchet. And you'll feel it when it comes to a stop. And just give it a little quarter turn if that. Maybe an eighth of a turn. You'll feel it seat in. You don't want to over torque. These are aluminum heads - you don't want to take the threads out of the heads. Now you've had your spark plug wire off. You know where your location is. You're going to slide your new wire back up in place. You spin back and forth a little bit and you'll feel it seat in. Same with the spark plug end. I've actually found on some of these it's nice if you have some dry silicone spray. Just give it a little shot of silicone because it won't become a conductor for the electrical charge that's going to be set to the plug but it will make putting the boot on the plug a little easier. And you'll feel it seat in. And you just wiggle back and forth and you'll actually feel it drop in place. Clip your wire back up into your routing looms. Now you're ready to move onto the next spark plug. And you're going to do this all the way around. And when you are done you'll have a new set of wires and a new set of plugs. And you should actually see a little increase in your fuel economy. If you feel you're ready to do a spark plug and cable tune up on your vehicle, remember we have that kit and it is now on our new service and maintenance academy. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out. You can call at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in performing the oxygen sensor service for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS Engine. Using money-saving kits # AMR6244SKA or ERR1834SKA (depending on VIN #), with 2 oxygen sensors each for front (upstream) and rear (downstream) installation, it is recommended that the O2 sensors be replaced every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: AMR6244SKA / ERR1834SKA Installing the Oxygen Sensor Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American Specifications, For vehicles with VIN up to 350101 (1995-1997): ERR1834SKA; For vehicles with VIN from 350102 (1997-On): AMR6244SKA Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to talk about the repair and maintenance academy kit that we ave for the replacement of your O 2 sensors on your 96 to 99 P38 with a GEMS engine. We have the kit. As you know you can go online and you can access and download this sheet. And what this does is give you a list of maintenance items are recommended by Land Rover in the maintenance schedule sheet for that vehicle. In this case we are going to discuss the kit for the O 2 sensors. They're recommending replacing the O 2 sensors every 90,000 miles. Over a period of time they do get coated. They get oil. They get road debris on them. And that will affect their performance which directly affects engine performance and fuel economy. What we have here is 2 different sets. And the reason for that is there is what they call a VIN split, or a change of design during that model. And what we have here is which stocks they - I'm going to pull this up so you can read that - these are the AMR6244SKA. These are for the P38 Range Rovers from vehicle number 350102. And that will be the last 6 digits of your VIN number that is on your windshield and on your door panel. The other kit is ERR1834SKA and those are for vehicles that were built up to 350101. So keep that in mind and before you order this kit you will need to know the last 6 digits of your vehicle I D number. And you can get that directly from the windshield on the driver's side or on the door jam on the driver side. Both will have your VIN number posted. Or even your vehicle registration will have it. So, there isn't much of a difference between them, but you will see that on the early version you have a black 4 pin connector. They use the same O 2 sensors. And on the new version, or the A's, uses a grey connector. That will help you discern whether or not you have either or. Again, I'll just reiterate that changing the O 2 sensors every 90,000 miles can make a huge difference in the performance of your engine. They do directly affect the fuel mixture, so they do directly affect your fuel economy. So now we're going to show you where the location of those O 2 sensors are and show you how to take them off. Here we are underneath a 99 P38 GEMS engine and we're going to show you the locations of the O 2 sensors. On these they're fairly open, they're very easy to get at. This is going to be the upstream O 2 sensor, and we're looking at the passenger side of the vehicle, or right side if you were in the vehicle facing forward. This is your downstream right here. Following your wiring will take you right to your connectors, which are relatively easy to access. Generally the 2 for the downstream are going to be right up on the backside of the transmission transfer case connection. And with these you are just simply going to use a five eighths wrench. And I usually start with a flair wrench because that creates less flex on the line. They become a little bit easier to disconnect. These are fairly clean, so you can see this one just broke loose. So you break it loose with a flair wrench, and then you can go to an open end. And you can even do it while it's still connected. You can spin these out. And then what you're going to do, once you have it laid down you can reach right up, disconnect it nothing more than just squeeze the tab and release it. And you're going to do just the opposite putting it back in. And once you set it in place, again, you use your open end to set it, and then you go back to your flair wrench. And you just need to give it a snug. You don't need to over torque it because you definitely don't want to strip the threads out on that and then that becomes a big job. That's in nice and snug. That's not going anywhere. There's the rear. Now you'll notice on some of these, right here. You'll see the heat shield actually touching the wiring. You want to put that heat shield back up in place because eventually what it will do is rub through those wires and then you're going to end up with an O 2 fault code. So always keep that in mind. Once you get these out you can see what's missing is a little washer and nut that belongs right there that will pull the heat shield off of the O 2 sensor. So keep that in mind you want to make sure there's nothing is rubbing on the wiring. Now just to show you where they are on the driver's side. Now on these the drive shaft seems like it might be in the way but you can still get a wrench up under the upstream. You're going to remove it the same way. Follow the wiring. It will take you to the connector. Squeeze the tab and release. The rear, actually relatively easy to get at. And what you may do when you go to take these off and sometimes you're going to run into something that's a little on the snug side, you can take a hammer and you can tap on the end of the wrench and slowly work it around. You'll feel if it's going to loosen up or not. Once you break it loose, I found sometimes you are going to get a lot of carbon build up, on the bottom side or exposed areas of the threads that are inside the cap. Just simply try to loosen it a half a turn or a quarter of a turn and then come back, and then go forward again. And it's a little tedious, but you'll do less damage to the threads which will make installing the new ones that much easier. And that's pretty much it for changing the O 2 sensors. Again, every 90,000 miles. You want to keep your vehicle running well. Keep your fuel economy down. And when you're ready to change them over you can give a call any of our knowledgeable salesmen - 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the spark plugs and ignition wires for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS engine. Using Spark Plug Kit # ERR3799SKA , which includes 8 spark plugs and a set of ignition wires, it is recommended that this service be performed every 30,000 miles.
Kit #: ERR3799SKA Installing the Spark Plug Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi this Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to review one of the kits we have available for our service and maintenance academy. This is the spark plug and spark plug wire kit that we mention in this. They call a spark plug kit ERR3799SKA. You'll see this on the sheet that you can download off of our website for the Range Rover 4.0 and 4.6, the P38, from 1995 to 1999, with the GEMS engine. On 99s, on early 1999s have the GEMS engine. Late 99s could be a BOSCH. If you're not sure which engine you have in your vehicle, you can refer to our earlier video that tells you how to determine what you have. Essentially the kit is going to be a full set of spark plug wires, 8 plugs and they're Champion RN11YC4 which is the correct spark plug for the 4.0 and the 4.6. Again, this is all part of our service and maintenance academy. And in a minute we're going to show you how to install this kit. Basically to begin what we're going to do is just simply going to change plug wires and plugs. Now fortunately on these GEMS engines these are relatively easy to get at. Now you'll find that if the plug wires have been on there for a while they're going to be a little tight on those spark plugs. What I like to do is use one of these pliers used for removing these have got rubber coated ends so it's not going to tear the boots open. These will give you a nice firm grip. They're angled so you can get into different positions. And you can essentially just slide this right down over the boot. Grab in as close to the tip of the spark plug as you can. Give a little twist and lift out. Now we'll slide this out of the way. Now I usually find the best way to do this is to do it one at a time. So we just removed number 2 spark plug wire, which is going to be the front right. Just to review, this is a V8, and the way the cylinders are numbered is 2 4 6 and 8 on the passenger side. 1 3 5 and 7 on the driver's side. And essentially you're just going to go one at a time, follow your wire with your fingers, disconnect it from the loom until you get to the point where you're on the coil. Now on the P38 we're a little tight against the firewall, which makes this tool all the more valuable. And we're just going to grab - we'll grab this one here. It's a simple lift and twist. As you get to the spark plug wires that are behind the upper plenum, this tool is fantastic for grabbing these wires and pulling them out. It's just a matter of twist and lift. When you go to put the new cables on, simply just line it back up with the hole it belongs in. Press down. You should feel it drop in and almost feel, not an audible click, but you will feel it lock in. Now in the spark plug, I usually find a nice long extension, you'll need a thirteen sixteenth socket. Preferably some of the spark plug sockets that have the rubber insert which makes the reinstallation alot easier. With a long handle it is much easier on the back. Pop that in place. You'll feel the socket lock in. Now these are aluminum heads on these engines. We generally don't recommend you change the plugs when the engine is hot. If you're going to do a spark plug change, do it when the engine is cold. Give a little pop. These have a pretty fair amount, almost three quarters of an inch of thread on them, so you're going to be twisting for a while until it finally comes out. Now I'll show you one of the reasons why, and it does show up on alot of these 4.0 and 4.6's. Pop the old plug out. And it's good to read the plug while you have it out. Now this engine actually is burning pretty well. We have a nice tan coating on the porcelain. The end of the gap and your electrode isn't burned away. This has actually been a pretty good running engine. But, on the other side, you'll see that white build up on the end of the plug, and if you look in the spark plug wire you'll see the same type. That's basically ozone that's built up arcing. In other words, this wire was not tight on the end of this plug and could cause a misfire. So, you want to read these when you take this apart. And you'll see there's your correct number RN11YCC, the original number. This is the older version of what we have in our kit now. To reinstall you're going to put your new plugs in. When you do, you're going to check the gap on the new plug; it's always good to do that ahead of time. These have a .033 to .038 gap on them. Having the correct gap does make a difference as far as fuel economy and cold starting. To reinsert, put your plug in your socket. You'll feel the end of it. Now you don't need to push because you don't want to close that electrode when you're putting it in. Just simply wiggle - locate the hole. You're going to have a slight angle. They thread in relatively easy. And what's nice about this particular socket design is the back of the socket is knurled, so I can get a grip with my fingers on it. Especially if you have an engine with a lot of oil coating on it this makes it alot easier. And you spin it until you feel it just starting to snug in. Attach your ratchet and your extension. Now you'll feel the spark plug seat. Give a look at what the angle of your ratchet is, give an eighth of a turn, and we're in. Again, you don't want to over tighten - these are aluminum heads. If you strip the heads out of these then you just made the job much bigger for yourself. That's essentially it. One last tip that I'll show you that I've always liked on these. Take a little silicone spray. When you go insert the new plug wires, give a little shot of silicone. It's not conductive but what it will do is make it a lot easier when you go install the plug wire to lock on to the plug. It will slide right on, lock in and the silicone will actually keep that area dry of moisture. Put your wire back in your looms. And you're going to do the same steps all the way around. And you may find that when you do the driver's side, if you take that intake boot, by removing the 2 clamps, it will make easier access to the plugs. So again, there's your spark plug tune up kit. It will make a general improvement on your fuel economy and on your performance. Generally these are recommended every, as our sheet says, every 30,000 miles. So again, this is Doug at Atlantic British. When you're ready to order your spark plug and wire set, just talk to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
The valve cover gaskets in the 4.0 / 4.6 / 3.9 / 4.2 Bosch engine in older Rover models like the 4.0 / 4.6 Range Rover, Discovery Series II, Range Rover Classic are notorious for leaking. Here is how to service them. In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, performs the valve cover gasket replacement on 2002 Discovery Series II (not equipped with secondary air). Using valve cover gaskets Part # LVC100260 (you will need two gaskets in this service). This video also covers removing the throttle body and replacing throttle body gasket (ERR6623) without disconnecting the coolant lines, removing and replacing the upper intake manifold gasket (ERR6621), and removing and replacing the oil separator (LLJ000010) as you have the passenger-side valve cover gasket off. Doug will also discuss vehicles equipped with secondary air. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
For BOSCH Engines Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (Part # LVC100260) Performed on 2002 Discovery Series IIAlso discussed in this video is the removal and replacement of the throttle body gasket, upper intake manifold gasket and the oil separator performed on 2002 Discovery Series II (with footnotes on vehicles equipped with secondary air)Hi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to do a regular maintenance item, or what we consider regular maintenance for the 4.0, 4.6 Discovery 2, Range Rover, the Classic, any of the older Land Rovers with the 4.0, 4.6, even the 3.9 and 4.2. What happens is the valve cover gaskets. They're notorious for leaking. You can put brand new ones in there and next thing, 8 months to a year later they're leaking again. So you might as well consider them regular maintenance. What we're going to do, is we're going to touch base in this video, we're going to use a 2002 Discovery 2. A very common vehicle. You see a lot of them out there. Essentially we are going to start with how to remove the throttle body without having to disconnect the coolant lines. We're going to replace the upper intake manifold gasket. Means we're going to be taking the upper intake off, which you're going to need to do with the BOSCH design because the upper bolts are hidden underneath the intake manifold. We'll give you some footnotes on some of the vehicles that are equipped with secondary air. This vehicle will not be equipped with secondary air. Your valve cover gaskets. And then while you have that passenger side valve cover off we'll show you how to replace the oil separator. They have a tendency to plug up. They act like a PCV valve so when they do become restricted or plugged you're going to end up drawing and using more oil than you need to. So, the parts you're going to need basically starting from the throttle body gasket ERR6623. We have the upper intake manifold gasket ERR6621. A pair of valve cover gaskets. They're the same part number LVC100260. And then the oil separator itself, which really looks like a little plastic Christmas tree LLJ000010. That's all you're going to need as far as parts go. Wouldn't hurt to have a gasket scraper or a scrubby pad, we're going to clean those areas up pretty well. And then we'll show you how it's done.And that basically would be plugged into the vacuum harness for the secondary air. Being this doesn't have secondary air, we just have a small black cover that runs over the top of that to seal that off so we don't have a vacuum leak there. We're going to install that in just a minute. This is just a plug in. Give it a pull. Make sure it's tight. We'll tighten our clamp here. Pop the nipple on there. And essentially we'll be pretty much done. What we do want to do though is we're going to run this where this belong. You can see the white tape there is for the location of this to hold that in place. Okay. We'll just get our little cover for that nipple. We'll put that clamp on. And we're essentially done. So, we have everything together right now. We've sealed up and done our valve cover gaskets, which like I said, can become almost a regular maintenance item on these. You can almost expect to do this every year and half, 2 years. So, when you're ready to changeover the valve cover gaskets on your 4.0 or 4.6 Discovery 2 or Range Rover, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS engine. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # 9369SKA , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: 9369SKA Installing the Coolant Hose & Thermostat Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to discuss the coolant and thermostat replacement kit as part of the repair and maintenance academy program for your 1996 to 1999 P38 Full Size Range Rover with the GEMS engine. Now if you are not sure if you have a GEMS engine or not, you can refer back to one of our other videos that actually tells you how to identify either the GEMS or the BOSCH design engine. So in this case we have a complete set of hoses: upper and lower radiator hoses; heater hoses; bypass hoses; refill hoses; that is a service that gets neglected on a lot of vehicles with higher mileage and in many cases can leave you stranded on the road should any of them decide to let go. Land Rover recommends on their schedule maintenance sheet every 90,000 miles. No you see you have somewhat an array of hoses. Even if you replace one, you have to drain the system, this is a good time to do them all. At 90,000 miles you plan on keeping the car for a while, you really don't want to just leave a couple of worn hoses on there that could leave you stranded further down the line. You have the vent hoses, the fill hoses, heater hoses, bypass hoses, the hoses that fill the throttle body heater. Basically every thing that you need including the thermostat. which this is actually a weak point in the system. These go. You want to replace these on a regular basis. These are, in the industry, referred to as the artificial heart as you can see by design. What we're going to do is show you the location of these hoses and how you would replace them, along with the thermostats and how to bleed the system when you're done. So now we're going to be replacing our hoses and thermostat. Now on this particular vehicle, on the P38, your thermostat is external and attached to the radiator support on the passenger side of the vehicle. Some people in the industry refer to it as the Jarvik heart, or the artificial heart, because it's sort of what it looks like. But it is an external thermostat and is mounted to 3 different hoses and your lower radiator hose. Now there's 2 different ways to drain this system, which you're going to need to do. One, you've all ready taken the cap off at the reservoir up top, and that's going to allow the system to drain completely. And there is both a drain plug in the dead center of the radiator on the bottom. And you also have a petcock further up. I usually recommend changing or removing this for the reason it does a complete drain and it is much easier to get at. To remove it you're going to need a 12 allen socket. We're going to take a pail. The system is going to hold about 3 and a half gallons of coolant. So you're going to need at least a 5 gallon pail to put under there. You like to leave yourself a little extra. We have a 12 millimeter allen drive socket and half inch drive which is going to give you some more leverage. And you're ratchet. Now, when you first break this loose you're going to get some outward spray. So be careful. We're going to step back out of the way. As you can see it drains pretty fast. So our system is drained out and you can bet that radiator is completely empty now which is why I like that bottom plug. Now before we take any of these clamps off, the majority of the clamps are a squeeze type clamp which there are several tools you can use to remove them. This bottom type is a worm type, probably has been replaced before. We're going to give that a little shot of penetrating oil and let that sit for a minute before we take that off. Now the thermostat is essentially just held on by the hoses. And then lays on 2 rests that are built into the lower shroud on this. This is usually a good place to start, by removing your clamps, top and bottom, to remove your thermostat. And then from there we'll drop the vehicle and we'll show you the hose location up top. Replacement of the thermostat and that one lower hose is going to cover you as far as lower hose and access from underneath. Now up top, relatively simple, you just have your upper radiator hose which is just a 2 point connection at either end. We'll take that off, which is just loosen the clamp, break it loose, remove the hose, install your new one. Your heater hoses - you have one here that runs from your feed on your heater core. Again just a squeeze clamp, slide it off. You may find these are going to be on somewhat tight. You can always take a razor blade or sharp instrument and actually slice it because you're not going to use it anyway. Slice the hose, break it loose that way. And then the other end attaches to the front of your lower intake manifold. This hose, which is essentially your feed and your heater hose, runs off the lower reservoir, out of the heater core to this T. And then from here down into the thermostat. Now there's some of these vehicles that you may find that when you take your hoses off, it's a good idea to check this metal down tube right here. This sometimes can fill with rust, over a period of time, because they do deteriorate internally and cause a restriction here, which can actually create a back-up of fluid into the reservoir. So if it seems like you're getting excessive pressure in the reservoir tank, or fluid is filling up very high, it may be in that hose. So it's a good idea. You have all the hoses off. The system is drained. It would be a good idea. You have 1 bolt right here. And another up front. You can remove this and check the hoses and see if it is restrictive. Again this is all a matter of remove the clamps, take the old hose off, install the new one. It's probably a good idea, if you're not really familiar with the system, and I do this with vehicles when I'm taking them apart for the first time, with the access of smart cameras, take a picture before you take it apart, and then when you go to put it back together, you're not quite sure how something is laid out, you can always refer back to your pictures. So that's basically it. When you're done you're going to simply fill the system. There is no bleeder on this system at all. Eventually what it's going to do - this is your bleed, this vent line - and this feeds all the way back to the top. And it's a good idea on these 4.0 4.6, fill it up, let it get nice and warm. Shut it down, let it get completely cold, and you're going to find your level is going to drop considerably. At that point you top it off again. A good way to make sure your heater core is not air bound is after the second fill up, bring your vehicle up to temperature, turn your heat on. Make sure you're getting good heat out of the vents. If you're getting good heat you are good to go, the system is bled. So that's all there is to it. When you're ready to change over the hoses and thermostat on your P38 you can give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform a wiper blade replacement on a LR2 2008-On. Using wiper blade kit # 7503LR2 , which includes two front wiper blades and one rear wiper blade, it is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles.
Kit #: 7503LR2 Install Wiper Blade Kit on LR2 / Freelander 2 2008 - On, 6-cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And as part of our repair and maintenance academy we wanted to show you the windshield wiper kit for the LR2. This will fit the 2008 on LR2, or Freelander 2 as it's known in the rest of the world. And this kit, based on our maintenance sheet that you can copy and download off your computer. This is based on the recommended service intervals from Land Rover. And every 15,000 miles you should change the wiper blades on this vehicle. Now if you live in a dusty area or in an area other than mild climate, you want to change these more often. And again this is a maintenance item that alot of people overlook, but realize that they need them come the first big snow or bad rain that they drive through. So it's best to beat that and do your maintenance when it's scheduled. Now what you will get in the kit is the 2 front wiper blades. And there is a small difference between the right and the left. You'll notice that the left hand side is a longer wiper blade than the right, and your rear blade. Now in a minute we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Here's your wiper blade kit. We're going to start with the driver side wiper. Now you can take the arm, which is on a pivot, and bring it back to the point where it is a little easier to get at. On this blade, and we'll show you on the new one, you have 2 squeeze tabs. And these are going to depress to remove the blade from the arm. And it's just a matter of depressing those two, lifting away from the arm and then up and out. Just that easy. Now the new blades come with a protective sheath on them, to keep them from any damage during shipping or during storage, so make sure you remove that sheath. You're going to lock this small curve tab into the slot of the blade, swing down, squeeze the 2 tabs again. And you're on. And that's our driver side. Now again, notice, fender cover on the hood. This way you can lay your wipers down in front of you. You're not going to do any damage to the paint. Now passenger side you are going to do similar to the driver side. Simply squeeze the tabs, we're going to pull away, unhook, take our new blade, slide your protective edge off, hook into slot, squeeze the tabs. You want to make sure that - there you go - when we hear that click we know we're in. And there's your front blades. Now we'll go around and show you the back because the back is done a little bit differently. Now the back is done a little bit differently, it's actually more the traditional hook design. Now first thing you do before you decide to change your rear wiper, especially ifyou're noticing that the wiper blade really isn't cleaning the back window very much. For some reason, because of where they are located, rear wiper arms have a tendency to get more corrosion build up in them and what not than the fronts. You'll notice here is a perfect example. I can pull this away and it stays in its position. This should pop right back on the window, and it should hold some tension. This pretty much sets wherever I put it. If your wiper arm does that, you need a new arm. We tried cleaning them up with penetrating oil and what not which is just a temporary fix and it will freeze right up - you need to replace the wiper arm as well as the blade. In the case of the blade, there's a small tab right here. Right there. Squeeze in, and that's going to release the lock. Take your wiper blade and push towards the door until you unhook. Now you'll notice you have an insert in the wiper. On one side it's smooth. On the other side has a small lifted tab. That small lifted tab needs to be on the bottom so that it locks into the slot on the wiper arm. So you're going to line that up. Simply slide that in place. You can hear a nice solid click when it's in. You know your tab is in. Push your wiper back in place. And your done. Now you've replaced the wiper blades on your LR2. And again, this is a very important service. This could become a safety item with worn out wiper blades. So when you're ready to change them over on your LR2, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install ARP Engine Head Bolts using Kit ARP4301 on a 4.0/4.6 Engine.
ARP Head Stud Kits Replacing Standard Engine Head Bolts with The ARP Engine Head Stud Set On 4.0/4.6 EnginesHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on an option you have if you're building your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6. And essentially what it is is a replacement set of studs instead of head bolts. Now you know a lot of the newer engines have the torque to yield head bolts, which you see a lot on now aluminum block, aluminum head engines. You're dealing with a high expansion and contraction rate which is why you need that style. But you find if you look, is you see a racing engine torn down, a lot of them will have studs. And studs are a little bit more secure. They cost a little bit more, but they definitely do a better job. So we're just going to give you a brief run down on what you would need to do to install the kit. Now we do stock for these. That's the ARP4301. Great kit. Comes with the studs. Comes with the nuts. And comes with the washers. So, we're going to demonstrate this on a nice new block. But you would normally do your prep work. Of course, clean out each hole, make sure your threads are clean. Run a chaser down there. Make sure they're all cleaned and lubed. With the studs though, what you're going to do is instead of putting a dab of oil on that you would normally do on the head bolts, because the studs are inserted and they're going to be stationary, you're going to take just a dab of thread lock. You can buy these at any parts center. And it just takes 1 or 2 drops. And you just want it so it locks the stud in place. Now you'll notice the nut is designed to be a 12 point. You would use a 5/8ths or a 16 millimeter 12 point socket. You want one in half inch drive so that you can torque these down once you get it together. And you'll also notice that you have a coarse thread on one side, fine thread on the other. The coarse thread obvious goes into the block. The fine thread remains up top for the nut. Now you'll also have 6 studs that will be longer than these and they are going to be in the top 3 center holes. You'll notice that when you take it apart, your head bolts. You're going to have 3 larger than the rest of them on each side. So, make sure you keep note of that when you go to put this together. So essentially all you're really going to need to do, you can do this one of two ways as far as installing it. You can run a nut down on one of the studs. We'll take a little bit of the. And just say you'll only need like a little drop. That's all it takes. We'll run the stud into the whole. And we're just going to bottom it out until it comes to the shaft of the stud so that it will stop at the point. And you'll notice that I don't even need a driver. In some cases you may. You don't need to have them real tight. You just need to snug them. And you can do that with either a stud puller or stud remover which will slide down over the stud and look like a socket. Or just use the socket itself on the nut. And that's all you really need to do. Just lock that in. We'll run the nut out. Let me get a ratchet and we'll put that on there.Reason I do that because most of your larger half inch won't go down or are not accurate at a 35 foot pound reading, where the smaller 3/8ths drive is. So we'll do the same thing as we did on the head. Basically we're going to start here. Go to this. Go to this. And go to this. And then one more time down the row just to make sure everything's squarely torqued. Alright. So here's the finished product. You can see studs in place. Nice neat appearance. Plus the fact is it's definitely a more secure set up than the torque to yield head bolts. So, this is something you might want to recommend, I would recommend that you do if you're doing a head gasket change over. Or you're doing an engine rebuild. You want to hold onto the vehicle for a while. This is the route to go. It's really worth the extra money. So when you're ready to do this to your 4.0 or 4.6 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the differential and transfer case service ( using complete kit # DTCM100A ) on a 2005-2009 LR3. For non-electronic (open) differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100A and for electronic differential vehicles use kit # DTCM100B. In this video, Doug explains the difference between electronic and open (non-electronic) differentials, and will show you the drain and fill points of the front and rear differential and transfer case, and axles. This service is often forgotten and should be performed every 75,000 miles, to prevent more costly repairs.
Kit #: DTCM100A / DTCM100B Performing Differential & Transfer Case Service on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video what we're going to do is touch base on the transfer case and differential drain and refill kit we have as part of our repair and maintenance academy program. Now what you'll be receiving is enough fluids to change the fluid in your front and rear differential and your transfer case. Now in the LR3, that came with both a open or standard differential or it came with an electronic locking differential. And you should be able to get the information off the original window sticker or you can even tell by looking underneath the vehicle. You'll see the difference with the differential has a motor, an electronic motor attached to it. You'll see some wiring. You'll see a harness going to the rear diff. If it does not have that harness you have whats called the open differential. So vehicles equipped with open differential you're going to get 3 bottles of gear oil for the differentials, you're going to get 2 bottles of transfer case fluid and new drain plugs and fill plugs with seals so that when you are done and you put the new plugs in there you'll see that they are teflon coated and sealer coated, you'll end up so you don't get any leaks out of the system. If you have the electronic, then you're going to use the second kit which will have 2 bottles of differential gear oil, 2 bottles of transfer case gear oil and 2 bottles of electronic locking rear diff fluid. And be careful you want to make sure that you've checked and you know which rear differential you have so you use the proper fluid. Now this is a maintenance that even Land Rover recommends. You should do this every 75,000 miles. This is a sheet that you can go on our website and you can copy and download for your own information. You'll see everything listed on both kits. And you'll also see the listing on it which will tell you whether it is for the open diff or for the electronic rear. So we're going to take a minute and we're going to put an LR3 up in the air and we're going to show you the location of your drain and your fill plugs. Alright, so now we're ready to change our fluid in our front and rear differentials and our transfer case. Now we've already removed the steel pan underneath the engine oil pan. It's just 10 bolts, 13 millimeter heads, all the way around. Drop the pan and we move that out of the way. And what that does is exposes the drain plug right here for the front differential. Now this will basically be between frame rails, and at the very bottom, a good size plug. And when you're done draining - and that's all you're basically going to do. You're going to take your plug out. Let it drain. Give it a little bit of time because it is relatively thick fluid. So bring it down to a point when you just get a drip every now and then. You know you've gotten as much as you can out of there. Now the fill plug is a little awkward to get at. You've got your support plate on the outside, or driver side of the differential. And then you have your 2 attaching bolts here at the bottom. Above the bolt, in the front of the 2, and just above the bracket, there's a small allen head plug that's threaded into the case, that's going to be your fill plug. Probably the best way to get up into that is if you have a suction gun and put a smaller hose on the end of that or attach a smaller hose because it's a relatively small hole. It's only maybe 9 to 10 millimeters. So that's the best way to refill it. So that will take care of the front diff. Again that's just a drain and refill. Now as we move down to the transfer case, you'll find your drain plug directly on the bottom. Again this is an allen. I think this is, I believe this is an 8 millimeter allen. Take this out, let it drain, let it get down to the last drop. Then when you're ready to refill, you put that plug back in, and then there's your fill plug right there. Now again I'm going to recommend - you have listed capacities for all these fluids. Don't assume that the bottom of that fill is going to be the proper height. Always check in your book, look at your capacities. Fill it to that amount and that amount only. Now we're going to move back to the rear axle. We're at the rear axle now. Now this is what they call an open diff. It's just a standard rear differential. If this was the electronic locking there would be an additional motor on the side. You would see a small wiring harness going to it. That's the easiest way to identify whether you have the locking or non locking rear axle. Now regardless of which one it is you still have just drain plug on the bottom. We're going to let as much fluid drain out of there as possible. And then your fill plug will be up higher. It's a smaller plug, towards the back of the differential case on the passenger side. And again, fill to the capacity recommended in the book. Don't just assume that the bottom line is going to be the proper fill height. And that's pretty much it. It's going to change over those fluids. Now it is a recommended service because over a period of time. Now the differentials and the transfer case are all vented. And because they are vented you can get condensation build up in the system. They're not sealed from humidity. So water in those systems, eventually if they should build up can absolutely damage bearings and definitely the performance of those components. Do the regular maintenance now, save yourself a lot of money in the long run. So, when you're ready to change over your differential fluid and your transfer case, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen, they'll be happy to help you, at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in performing the oxygen sensor service for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using money-saving kit # MHK100920SKA, with 2 oxygen sensors each for front (upstream) and rear (downstream) installation , it is recommended that the O2 sensors be replaced every 90,000 miles.
Kit # MHK100920SKA Oxygen Sensor Replacement Kit on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech service representative at Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to introduce you to the O2 sensor replacement kit as part of our repair and maintenance academy. This will be for the 1999 to 2002 Discovery 2 with the 4 liter GEMS engine. And what will be included with the kit are 4 brand new O2 sensors. They use the same sensor upstream as they do downstream, so they'll all be the same number. Now the kit there's also included with each one there also comes a small little envelope with some never sees in them so that they'll thread easily into the O2s. Now you'll see the kit listed. Now this is a downloadable and printable sheet that you can get from our website. Showing Kit # N. Oxygen Sensor Kit. The number being MHK100920SKA. And that will include what you see here - is the 4 oxygen sensors. Now it is recommended that every 90,000 miles you change these O2 sensors over. Over a period of time they do break down from coating on the sensor end itself. Plus contaminants and whatnot and some oil can build up around the connectors. It can make a difference in the performance of your vehicle and your fuel economy. So well worth something you want to do on a regular interval. And as I said Land Rover does recommend that they do be changed every 90,000 miles. So they are a wearable item. Now in a few minutes we'll show you the location of these O2 sensors, and a way to change them over. That's pretty much it for changing over the O2 sensors. Again reasonably it will probably take you 45 minutes, maybe an hour, to change them over. But in the long run it will be well worth it. And it is definitely a recommended service by Land Rover. So when you're ready to change over your O2 sensors, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an Android device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the Android device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On Android Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more:checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so we're going to show you how to set up your new iLAND on an Android system. And essentially what will happen is when you get your Android tool, you're also going to get a set up sheet similar to this that's going to basically take you right through. This is an easy quick start guide. And what we'll start with is, you're going to turn your phone on. And we'll get on the screen. Now where you would go is you would go to your play store, your Google play store on your Android system. And then this will essentially put you there. It will have a search on top. And just put in iLAND diagnostics. And it will put you on this window. And we've all ready installed, but normally this would, this box on the left going to tell you install, hit that, let it do its thing. And then essentially you go back. And you will look for your icon right on your screen. So we'll hit that. We'll go back on that. And it's going to put you on the screen here. In fact let's back this up one. It's going to give you a screen that's going to essentially look like you're going to log in. But you haven't developed your registration yet. So down here, just below the log in box, you'll see sign up. We'll hit that. And then what it does now is put you on a screen. You're going to enter in your email address. This is the address that will be designated for this phone so once you enter it it becomes basically a permanent address. So we're going to do that. And we're going to go to the next screen. So you've entered your email address. The next screen you get is going to be verification. It's going to ask you to enter your received verification number which is right here. And we'll just punch that in. And then we're also going to set a password in here and it states 6 to 20 characters, doesn't say anything else about capitals or letters or numbers or whatnot. So just 6 to 20 characters will be enough for an adequate password. So now you've entered that. You're going to hit done. So the next screen now for the complete the info, this is a register this under your name, so your going to enter your first name, last name and zip code of where you live. So after entering your name and your zip code and you hit done, it's going to put you at one point it is going to tell you to pick a vehicle, but before it does, if there's any downloads, or upgrades available on this particular veh, on this particular set up, it will automatically set you up and sure enough, here we are, and we actually have a download available, so we're going to hit download. Let it do the upgrade and then we can get into picking our vehicles. Now, in case when you do finish your registration and whatnot, and there isn't a download or an upgrade available on that, at the time you'll get this window, it will just simply tell you sign up succeeded. And it will tell you to activate, welcome, to activate your dongle and you will have more functions. I'm going to hit that. Now it's going to ask for the serial number and the activation code which you will receive in the dongle box when you get your new iLAND. And this will come with your iLAND diagnostic tool. And there will be a product serial number, and then on this side the private / confidential which will be the verification number. You'll need to open up and underneath will be the verification number. And that's what this is asking for now. So we'll type in those 2 numbers. All right. So at this point now, you're going to get the screen that will ask you to choose your vehicle. Being that this unit is all ready set up for pro, it's all ready set up for all Land Rover vehicles, if you purchased your iLAND for a single vehicle. Of course now you choose your vehicle now, say either Range Rover, Discovery, whatever your vehicle is. Once you choose that it's locked in and you cannot change that. That remains constant on the vehicle. That's all you're going to have. So at this point now you've downloaded the app, you have the app, you have the vehicle choice, so now we're going back up to Bluetooth and link you up with the dongle. So when you get on your Bluetooth screen. First you're going to go to settings. You go to Bluetooth. You're going to look for available devices. You'll hit that and what it will do is a search. And then it will pop up the serial number on your dongle. And then at that point just tap that and it will pair it up. Now that we're paired, we have our app done, we can go back to our main screen. You see our iLAND and again I'm going to spell it out - it's i-l-a-n-d. There's no s in there. And go hit on the app. And basically we can now hook up to any vehicle. The first time you go into your vehicle, it's going to give you what they call workshop warnings. And these are basically just safety items that they want you to be aware off. And you'll hit accept. And then a warning using battery charger and whatnot. Just read through that. These are certain little guidelines. We'll hit accept. Please wait. And now everything is just going to load up. And there you are. Now it'll even show you if there is another version available, it will do automatic updates. So it's all ready loaded the newest updates so we can trash can the old one. We'll confirm. We'll take that out. So now we're on the latest and greatest. And you'll find that there will be updates as you use this constantly. They're always looking to improve the tool. So we'll hit confirm. And now it's going to set up the updates and get it all. Once the updates are loaded, you'll be able to get on the vehicle and be able to start your diagnostics. And that's basically all there is to it. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service using our Kit # TRANSM600SKB on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38, with 4-speed ZF transmission; and should be performed every 30,000 miles.
Kit#:TRANSM600SKB Installing Transmission Filter and Service Kit On Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004, 8 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance that a lot of people neglect on their vehicles, and that's automatic transmission service. On the Land Rover Discovery's, especially Discovery 2, your Range Rover P38, basically any vehicle across the board, over a period of time the fluid breaks down, the filter becomes restricted, and you end up losing not only shift performance, it can affect your fuel economy and it basically affects the overall drivability of the vehicle. So what we've done is put a kit together. And this is for the 4 speed ZF that was used in the Discovery 2s and the P38s. This will give you enough fluid, a new gasket, a filter, new O rings and the retainer collars for the pan and a drain plug with a new seal. And this is something you actually could do in your driveway. It's actually a relatively easy pan to drop. There's only 6 bolts. There's a drain plug. And just doing the service could do a world of good on your vehicle. So what we're going to do is show you how to install this. And basically show you how relatively easy it is to do a transmission service on this particular vehicle. We're going to do this on a 1999 Discovery 2. This will be very similar to any of the other vehicles, so follow along, I'll show you how to do it. So before we get started what I'm going to do is give you a basic layout of what you'll be getting into. We have a drain plug on the bottom. We're going to take that out first, let the system drain out. And then the only thing you have holding the pan in are 6 small bolts. You have 1 in each corner and then on each side there's 1 in the middle. Now the way they have this configured, they have a lip on the pan that goes all the way around. And on that lip is held in place by these little, I guess you could call them a block or a spacer or whatever you want to call it. But the bolt runs through it. As you can see there. Now when they've been up in place for about 17 years as in this case, they have a tendency to lock themselves in. So I would suggest is if you're a do it yourselfer, and you plan on doing this, you may want to start a week ahead of time and just shoot those bolts down about every other day with penetrating oil let the stuff work its way in. If you're a shop, definitely you still want to get in there and give them a little shock treatment, shoot them up with penetrating oil. You can take a straight punch with a small hammer and just give a wrap. Or if you have access to compressed air, with an air hammer just a quick shot right at the end of each bolt. Hopefully to break the corrosion loose. So that's essentially what you got. Be very careful, these bolts are very susceptible to breaking. It's a very small bolt that run into an aluminum housing. And when they are there for a while they will lock themselves in place. And you won't even know it. You'll spin it out and feel like the bolts turning. It just snaps right off. So if that's the case then you are going to be getting into a repair. So be very careful taking them off. Anyway, so, let's get started. We're going to take this apart. Drop this pan. And get into the filter change. So, we're at the point now, we've run it through the gears. We let our drip down to the pint where we knew we had a good level. Install the new plug. And at this point we're essentially done. We've done a transmission service. So with that new filter in place, like I said, it helps with fuel economy. It definitely adds to the life of the transmission. The fluid does break down after a while. And overall it's just going to let this transmission last a lot longer and perform better. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your D2 or your P38 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to diagnose, access and replace Transmission Valve Body Harness with Temperature Sensor on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322) with BMW engine and ZF 5-speed transmission. The warning light on the instrument cluster will indicate: "Transmission Fluid Temperature Excessive." The vehicle also goes into Limp Mode--which is 3rd gear to cool the transmission down so you can get to a shop for repair. In actuality, the fault isn't the transmission, but the temperature sensor, which is built into the wiring harness, that lives in the transmission. To confirm this is the repair you need to make, your diagnostics tool will display "Gearbox Oil Temperature Sensor Fault." This replacement repair will resolve the problem. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part #: YMD001500G Diagnostics and Replacement of Transmission Valve Body Harness With Temperature Sensor on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322)Choosing The Right Diagnostic System for Your Land Rover A Comparison of 3 Diagnostic Systems, 2003 - 2009, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a concern that shows up now and then on these 2003 to 2005 Full Size Range Rovers. This is the L322 with the BMW engine and the ZF 5 speed transmission. And what occurs is you'll be going down the road and you'll suddenly get a warning on your instrument cluster stating transmission fluid temperature excessive. Also what will happen is the vehicle will go into Limp In mode, and all you'll have is 3rd gear. And that's essentially there to help cool your transmission down and to get you where you want to go. When in actuality there isn't a fault in the transmission, but it's a fault in the little temperature sensor that's built into the wiring harness inside the transmission. Now it is a replaceable harness. And what we're going to do is, next step we're going to show you basically how you can diagnose it using any one of the little Land Rover diagnostic tools that we have. And essentially what it breaks down to is this little harness that is installed internally in the transmission, you do have to drop the oil pan to get to it. So what I would recommend is, obviously if you're going to be changing this, you're also going to need 5 quarts of ZF fluid, because you're going to have to top the system back off when you put the pan back on. So, anyway, so what we're going to do is we're going to plug in the I930. We're going to show you the code that will probably, or should occur when you do a diagnostic. And then a way of looking just to double check that it is in fact the sensor that failed and not an internal issue causing high temperature. Be careful working around it. Not only you don't want to touch it, you don't want to hit the hose of your tool against that tool because it will melt right through it. So as I showed you, we've basically replaced the harness. We've topped off all the new fluid. We capped everything up. We've checked for leaks. And then we'll do a quick road test. We want to make sure to make sure that we've gotten any air that may have gotten into the transmission is out of it before it goes back to your customer or you take it out for a ride. So when that little warning light pops up and says that you have a gear box oil temperature overheating and you can verify it with a diagnostic tool, we've shown you how to replace it. When you're ready to do so, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an iOS device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the iOS device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On iOS Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more: checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so let's begin. I'm going to show you how to load up your iLAND program onto your iphone or your ipad. You're going to go to app store. And when you go to app store, at the top when you search you're going to search for iLAND diagnostics. And that's i-l-a-n-d, no s. Once you get on iLAND diagnostics, you'll hit install and you're going to install the app on your phone. So, now you've downloaded your app, you'll find your icon on your main screen, on your home screen. So we'll hit that. So now we're going to go through registration process. Looks like a log in screen, but you'll see here in the lower left sign up. Hit that. And now you're going to feed the information. Of course it will say USA if you're in the United States. And then essentially what you're going to do at this point, you're going to enter your email address and then it's going to ask you to do it twice to confirm the correct email.All right, so we're essentially ready to do the next step will obviously the pairing. So we're going to pair up the phone now with the dongle so that once the two are connected, you'll have full use of your iLAND. So what essentially you're going to go to your Bluetooth settings. All right, go to settings, pull up Bluetooth, make sure Bluetooth is on. And then when you do a scan, the serial number for your unit is going to appear on your screen. Simply connect to it. Once you've done that, you're all set. So we'll get out of settings. We'll go back to our main screen. Let's hit iLAND. And now immediately all our vehicles come up. So if you're using an individual, you're just going to hit that, say you set yours up for a Range Rover, hit Range Rover and that's going to put you on the screen that's going to allow you to do all your diagnostics. And that we'll cover further in other vehicles. For now we want to show you how to do your initial set ups so you can get started using the iLAND. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will replace the air suspension with our coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This kit also fits and is the same install process for the Land Rover LR3. Doug will then go over the installation of the EAS Re-flash module to remove dashboard codes.
Kit#: L319SRK-OMEHL Install Coil Spring Suspension Kit Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works for LR3) Hi I'm Doug. I'm the tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about a coil spring replacement kit that we have for the LR3's that is designed for LR3's now that every body's been adding steel bumpers and roof racks and additional weight to them that they find the original suspension really isn't designed for it. Or if you switch the coils and get the regular coil springs they're not heavy enough to hold the vehicle up. At least they're not going to give you the proper ride. So, what we have is a heavy duty set, which is our L319SRK-OMEHL. The OME representing Old Man Emu coil springs. These are a good heavy duty spring. And what these will do is unloaded it will actually raise the vehicle about 2 inches above its normal ride height. And give you a much higher loading capacity. Very nice kit, and essentially what you're going to get is 2 of these for the front. You can see by the size of the coils these are pretty massive. And these are definitely designed for heavy duty use. And the other would be 2 of the rears. And you can see even heavier yet. With a good shock absorber built in and a protective boot. You'll also get new nuts for the top of these where they install into the frame. So it's nice to have new hardware. And then you'll also get a reflash unit. So if you're converting over from the air suspension to the coil springs, so that you don't have all the warning lights and everything coming on. And basically works its way around the control module so you won't get all the lights and buzzers and everything else. So, that's essentially the kit, and the installation is pretty much the same as our other coil spring kits. But we're going to give you a little rundown and show you how to install it. All right, so, we're going to begin by doing the fronts. And you'll see that we've all ready taken the engine shield off. And that's just nothing more than the 4 ten millimeter nuts and the oil filler cap and that comes right out. The reason we're doing that is because we're going to access the inner nut on the 2 fronts from the top as opposed to trying to get at it from underneath. If you look at it from underneath you'll see it's almost impossible to get at.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
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