head gasket videos
Watch Jim as he gives an overview of the Land Rover head gasket components. Jim explains how to know if you have blown a head gasket on your Land Rover, and also provides useful tips on how to repair a leaky head gasket to get your engine back running efficiently.
Watch Jim explain what is included in the Head Gasket Set that fits most Land Rovers and Range Rovers.
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. This video is also applicable to Range Rover P38 vehicles with BOSCH engines from 1999 - 2002 (4.0 or 4.6). We use our kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. This video is also applicable to Range Rover P38 vehicles with BOSCH engines from 1999 - 2002 (4.0 or 4.6). We use our kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation . We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install ARP Engine Head Bolts using Kit ARP4301 on a 4.0/4.6 Engine.
ARP Head Stud Kits Replacing Standard Engine Head Bolts with The ARP Engine Head Stud Set On 4.0/4.6 EnginesHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on an option you have if you're building your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6. And essentially what it is is a replacement set of studs instead of head bolts. Now you know a lot of the newer engines have the torque to yield head bolts, which you see a lot on now aluminum block, aluminum head engines. You're dealing with a high expansion and contraction rate which is why you need that style. But you find if you look, is you see a racing engine torn down, a lot of them will have studs. And studs are a little bit more secure. They cost a little bit more, but they definitely do a better job. So we're just going to give you a brief run down on what you would need to do to install the kit. Now we do stock for these. That's the ARP4301. Great kit. Comes with the studs. Comes with the nuts. And comes with the washers. So, we're going to demonstrate this on a nice new block. But you would normally do your prep work. Of course, clean out each hole, make sure your threads are clean. Run a chaser down there. Make sure they're all cleaned and lubed. With the studs though, what you're going to do is instead of putting a dab of oil on that you would normally do on the head bolts, because the studs are inserted and they're going to be stationary, you're going to take just a dab of thread lock. You can buy these at any parts center. And it just takes 1 or 2 drops. And you just want it so it locks the stud in place. Now you'll notice the nut is designed to be a 12 point. You would use a 5/8ths or a 16 millimeter 12 point socket. You want one in half inch drive so that you can torque these down once you get it together. And you'll also notice that you have a coarse thread on one side, fine thread on the other. The coarse thread obvious goes into the block. The fine thread remains up top for the nut. Now you'll also have 6 studs that will be longer than these and they are going to be in the top 3 center holes. You'll notice that when you take it apart, your head bolts. You're going to have 3 larger than the rest of them on each side. So, make sure you keep note of that when you go to put this together. So essentially all you're really going to need to do, you can do this one of two ways as far as installing it. You can run a nut down on one of the studs. We'll take a little bit of the. And just say you'll only need like a little drop. That's all it takes. We'll run the stud into the whole. And we're just going to bottom it out until it comes to the shaft of the stud so that it will stop at the point. And you'll notice that I don't even need a driver. In some cases you may. You don't need to have them real tight. You just need to snug them. And you can do that with either a stud puller or stud remover which will slide down over the stud and look like a socket. Or just use the socket itself on the nut. And that's all you really need to do. Just lock that in. We'll run the nut out. Let me get a ratchet and we'll put that on there.Reason I do that because most of your larger half inch won't go down or are not accurate at a 35 foot pound reading, where the smaller 3/8ths drive is. So we'll do the same thing as we did on the head. Basically we're going to start here. Go to this. Go to this. And go to this. And then one more time down the row just to make sure everything's squarely torqued. Alright. So here's the finished product. You can see studs in place. Nice neat appearance. Plus the fact is it's definitely a more secure set up than the torque to yield head bolts. So, this is something you might want to recommend, I would recommend that you do if you're doing a head gasket change over. Or you're doing an engine rebuild. You want to hold onto the vehicle for a while. This is the route to go. It's really worth the extra money. So when you're ready to do this to your 4.0 or 4.6 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service using our Kit # TRANSM600SKB on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38, with 4-speed ZF transmission; and should be performed every 30,000 miles.
Kit#:TRANSM600SKB Installing Transmission Filter and Service Kit On Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004, 8 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance that a lot of people neglect on their vehicles, and that's automatic transmission service. On the Land Rover Discovery's, especially Discovery 2, your Range Rover P38, basically any vehicle across the board, over a period of time the fluid breaks down, the filter becomes restricted, and you end up losing not only shift performance, it can affect your fuel economy and it basically affects the overall drivability of the vehicle. So what we've done is put a kit together. And this is for the 4 speed ZF that was used in the Discovery 2s and the P38s. This will give you enough fluid, a new gasket, a filter, new O rings and the retainer collars for the pan and a drain plug with a new seal. And this is something you actually could do in your driveway. It's actually a relatively easy pan to drop. There's only 6 bolts. There's a drain plug. And just doing the service could do a world of good on your vehicle. So what we're going to do is show you how to install this. And basically show you how relatively easy it is to do a transmission service on this particular vehicle. We're going to do this on a 1999 Discovery 2. This will be very similar to any of the other vehicles, so follow along, I'll show you how to do it. So before we get started what I'm going to do is give you a basic layout of what you'll be getting into. We have a drain plug on the bottom. We're going to take that out first, let the system drain out. And then the only thing you have holding the pan in are 6 small bolts. You have 1 in each corner and then on each side there's 1 in the middle. Now the way they have this configured, they have a lip on the pan that goes all the way around. And on that lip is held in place by these little, I guess you could call them a block or a spacer or whatever you want to call it. But the bolt runs through it. As you can see there. Now when they've been up in place for about 17 years as in this case, they have a tendency to lock themselves in. So I would suggest is if you're a do it yourselfer, and you plan on doing this, you may want to start a week ahead of time and just shoot those bolts down about every other day with penetrating oil let the stuff work its way in. If you're a shop, definitely you still want to get in there and give them a little shock treatment, shoot them up with penetrating oil. You can take a straight punch with a small hammer and just give a wrap. Or if you have access to compressed air, with an air hammer just a quick shot right at the end of each bolt. Hopefully to break the corrosion loose. So that's essentially what you got. Be very careful, these bolts are very susceptible to breaking. It's a very small bolt that run into an aluminum housing. And when they are there for a while they will lock themselves in place. And you won't even know it. You'll spin it out and feel like the bolts turning. It just snaps right off. So if that's the case then you are going to be getting into a repair. So be very careful taking them off. Anyway, so, let's get started. We're going to take this apart. Drop this pan. And get into the filter change. So, we're at the point now, we've run it through the gears. We let our drip down to the pint where we knew we had a good level. Install the new plug. And at this point we're essentially done. We've done a transmission service. So with that new filter in place, like I said, it helps with fuel economy. It definitely adds to the life of the transmission. The fluid does break down after a while. And overall it's just going to let this transmission last a lot longer and perform better. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your D2 or your P38 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Have you noticed your Range Rover surge or start to lose throttle response? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the throttle body housing demonstrated on a 2008 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Because of it's location under the hood, the throttle body housing does not get good ventilation. The motor that operates the throttle plate on the housing then deteriorates, due to heat and overheating, and malfunctions. Using our Throttle Housing Part # LR006142G, and Throttle Gasket Part # 4536886G you will resolve this problem. This service is also valid for the LR3, Range Rover Full Size (with Jag Engine) and the Range Rover Sport 2006-2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part# LR006142G with 4536886G Remove and Install the Throttle Body Housing and Gasket Demonstrated On 2008 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on something that's not showing up on some of the Supercharged 4.2's, on both the Full Size Range Rover and the Sport. And what's happening is the throttle body's, or actually the motors that operate the throttle plate in the throttle body's are starting to break down from overheating. And how that happens is because of the location of the throttle body. On the regular 4.4 the naturally aspirated it's up front and within the breeze of the fan and it doesn't run as hot, plus it has a cooler in it. Whereas with the Supercharged, it's actually buried back towards the back of the engine down in the area that really doesn't get a lot of ventilation and so it runs in a much hotter area. So we're finding what happens is going down the road under certain conditions all of a sudden the vehicle will surge, start losing throttle response, there's a number of different functions in there. And sometimes it may not even kick a fault code when it happens. So we're finding this seems to be the cause of the majority of them. I've actually done a few over the years, and it does solve that problem. And essentially all you need parts wise is a replacement throttle body. This is original equipment. This is all that you can get right now. The aftermarket companies aren't making these. And a new gasket. And the rest is basically going to be labor to access it and replace it. And you'll see that both are original part numbers and we find that of course they work the best. But again, because of where they're located and the design, they do break down over a period of time. So what I'm going to do is show you how to do the repair on that, and fix that problem. All right, before we begin, what I'm going to do is just give you a quick rundown on some of the tools you may need to do this repair. And as you can see I've got 2 hose pinch pliers, which can be substituted different sizes or small vice grips, so anything in that line. I prefer these because they don't cut into the hose. A long pair of 45 degree angled needle nose, although you can still get in there with a regular needle nose. This just makes the job easier. Small pair of slip joint pliers. Long extension for quarter inch drive along with a 7 millimeter universal. And 8 millimeter deep. A 8 millimeter universal with a shorter extension. You can see I have 2 quarter inch drives here. You can get away with just one. With a 7 millimeter deep. And a straight blade screw driver. Number 3. And a flashlight.What we're going to do now at this point. You'll start your vehicle. Let it sit and idle until it's fully warmed up. Give it a good 6 to 10 minutes. And then just take it for a drive and let everything basically set itself as you're driving. So, when you're ready to get rid of that throttle issue on your Supercharged 4.2 either on the 2006 to 2009 Sport, or the 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Here is the step-by-step process in the removal and installation of the transmission filter conversion kit on a 2005-2009 LR3. Using kit # ATFCK , this is an easy change filter conversion kit for all Rovers using ZF 6HP Automatic Transmission. This includes the LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover L322 models. Installing the original factory filter change kit is a very lengthy process. The original sump and filter are normally one piece and fitting involves jacking the engine up and unbolting the mounts, plus, the removal of the exhaust. This new kit has a two-part filter and pan design, which makes installation much easier. Doug will also address replacement of the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve part number TZV500010G which has a tendency to leak. It is recommended that this sleeve be replaced while you have the pan down. This service is recommended to be performed every 50,000 to 70,000 miles to ensure optimum performance.
Kit #: ATFCK Install the Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion Kit on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a new and innovative product, definitely a labor saving item. This is a transmission kit for the Sports and the LR3s with the 4.4 V8. And what they've done is they've gotten away from the 1 piece pan and filter set up which up to this point, when you went to change over the filter in your transmission you had to remove one of the catalytic converters, the crossmember. You had to support the transfer case. And in some cases we had to take one bolt out of the right side motor mount and we had to jack the engine up to get that out of there. So because of input from alot of Land Rover owners, what they've done is come up with a kit so we have a separate filter and pan so that we can actually install this without taking all this extra out of the vehicle. And what it essentially does is, and those of you who aren't familiar with the original design you have a plastic pan similar to this with a filter in it. The filter is part of the pan with this stem. This stem is what the killer is because you have a cross member. It's only about an inch underneath this pan. So to get these out, you've got to be able to jack the whole drive line up at one point to clear this piece out of here. But now you can just drop the original pan. Cut the old tube off with a hacksaw. Pull that out once we get the pan out of the way. You take the new filter. You pop the filter up in place. And then the pan slides in. And with the kit you get the new filter. The new O ring. New set of bolts. And a metal pan instead of plastic. It's overall going to be a better situation. It also makes it alot easier for do it yourselfers, as opposed to having to bring it to a shop because of all the extra assembly and disassembly. This has been a long time coming. This is a great product. What I'm going to do then is we're going to show you initially how to install it and how we're going to drain it and how we're going to change this over without having to take all that extra pieces out of the vehicle.There we are. So we've reached the point where we've filled this up. We've got 1 drip per second. We capped, put the plug back in. Be very careful because that catalytic converter is going to be very hot. You may want to invest in a set of what they call, actually they are available, kevlar gloves. Just something to keep you from burning your hand on that catalytic converter. Tighten the plug down. Next step is obviously let it run. Let it sit for a minute. You want to check for any leaks around the gasket. Once you're confident that you have no leaks then basically we're done. So at this point now we're going to let it cool down just a little bit. And then we can reinstall the bracket. That supports the heat shield. Put the heat shield back on. And reinstall the front dash plates. So all that we did in the beginning you're just going to reinstall just the way you took it off. Very easy. So, when you're ready to do the transmission service on your LR3 or your Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, or you can click on this link or if you wish to subscribe to our YouTube channel you can click on this link and that will take you to that. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
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-Bill M. (Boydton,VA)
Great customer service, very knowledgeable staff. Everyone I have worked with are Land Rover owners- which is a big help for knowing the vehicles.
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
You always have the parts I need at a great price and everyone Ive ever spoken to has a great knowledge of all Land Rovers
-Keith B. (Blue Ridge,VA)
Professionalism. My sales rep is a rock star, and I value both his technical expertise and his knowledge of your product line.
-Alan R. (N. Chelmsford,MA)
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