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head gasket videos
Watch Jim as he gives an overview of the Land Rover head gasket components. Jim explains how to know if you have blown a head gasket on your Land Rover, and also provides useful tips on how to repair a leaky head gasket to get your engine back running efficiently.
Did you blow a head gasket?Overview of Head Gasket Kits and Head Bolt Kits for Land Rover and Range RoversHi, it's Jim. I do the technical support here at Atlantic British. This morning we thought we'd have a little discussion on head gaskets. What can go wrong with them. Where they fail. Sitting here on our bench I've got a head that came off a Land Rover V8 engine. This pertains to 1987 up to about 2004. Usually when head gaskets go, they fail in this area here, which is the water jacket. I've also seen them fail right here on combustion chamber, it actually leaks exhaust out the sides. Sounds like a leaky exhaust pipe, but it is usually a failed head gasket. Early on, up to about 1994, the head gasket was just a shim type metal gasket. Around 1994 Land Rover decided that the better seal was this new style composite head gasket. With this gasket, it takes special head bolts. They're what they call a stretch or angle torque head bolt. They have to be replaced every time you do the gasket, because they get torqued special. First you just tighten them up to about 15 pounds, and then you twist them 90 degrees and then another 90 degrees. The bolt actually acts like a little spring when the engine expands and contracts. The composite head gasket, if you get a good quality like we sell here at Atlantic British, I believe the brand is Elring, they're always marked with the word top, so you know where to put it on the car. If you can't find the top, usually this red sealer is facing you, and you put the head down on top of it. To find out if you have a head gasket problem, the obvious thing is you're going to see water dripping underneath your truck. What you need to do is get somebody to pressure test it, see where it is coming out. Like I said, the usually area are the ends of the head. Another way they can fail is you'll get combustion getting into the cooling system and it builds too much pressure. You need special test equipment - there is a dye you can put in a sample of the cooling that will actually change colors. If you have all that problem going on, it's a pretty complicated repair. You have to be a very good do-it-yourselfer with a lot of tools, or it may be better just to take it to someone who has done it before. At Atlantic British we carry all the parts you need to do a head gasket job. Shown here on the bench is one of our complete engine kits. In the kit you get the head gaskets, which come in a sealed envelope, a lot of miscellaneous seals for the intake manifold, this is the valley gasket, these are the valve cover gaskets. Also don't forget you need to buy the bolts. I believe we stock a complete kit with the gaskets and the bolts. Also included with the gasket, you get this little piece of paper that shows you the correct procedure to tighten up the head. If you don't follow this procedure it won't seal right, or you can actually warp the head and the gasket will fail in short order. You can order your parts here at Atlantic British either on RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Our sales staff has handled this situation many times. They know exactly what you need, they know exactly what's going on. Another point, I don't know is other companies do this, when you do order online your order actually gets checked by a real person. They'll look and see what you're ordering, what you've ordered and what you need, and if there is a question about it we'll actually call you and say, We saw you order this. You may need something else besides what you're doing. That's just part of the full service we do here at Atlantic British. Check out your head gasket, and maybe take it to a pro and get it fixed.
Watch Jim explain what is included in the Head Gasket Set that fits most Land Rovers and Range Rovers.
Head Gasket Set What Is Included in the Head Gasket Set (STC4082BK)Hi. It's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. We're going to take a look at our head gasket replacement kit you can buy here. There's been some confusion. There's more stuff in this kit than you actually need for a Land Rover. It's because the Land Rover V8 is installed in other cars in the UK. Could be in a Rover car. First thing you are going to see is, we have the head gasket in here. This is pretty obvious it's the head gasket. That's why youre going in there. It actually has little instructions in here on how to install it. The next two gaskets are your valve cover gaskets. In the kit you are going to find metal gaskets for the exhaust manifold to the head. Also included in the kit, if your car has a normal thermostat, there's a thermostat gasket in here. If you have a Disco 2 or later model Range Rover you probably won't be using this. Also there's what they call the valley cover gasket. This is the intake manifold gasket. Here's the tin gasket and the two rubber end seals. We move over here to the other side - you may recognize my old Rover - also in the kit, these blue seals, they look just like this, are the valve seals for your intake and exhaust valves. There should be 16 of these in here. Also in the kit, there should be 16 of these rubber O rings. This is for the upper and lower part of the fuel injectors, if you take them out. Now for the confusing part. In this bag, there's like these seals. I'm not quite sure what these fit. It could be a truck or car with a carburetor. Also, this 1 gasket I can tell you, if you got an older Rover is for the throttle pot on the throttle opening. Other gaskets they could be for throttle heaters on some other cars. Like I said, they put these in here. They just don't our versions. As you can see, in the bag there's quite a few. So, my recommendation when you're using this kit: get your car apart; take the seal out you're looking; and see if you can match it up in the kit. If you don't find it in the kit, I'm sure we stock it. So, that's our head gasket kit. This is the one where you have to replace the head bolts too because this is what they call a compression style gasket. You can get your gasket here at RoveParts.com or call us at 1-800-533-2210. Talk to our sales staff. They can give you the gaskets you need to complete the job or just sell you this head gasket set.
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation . We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install ARP Engine Head Bolts using Kit ARP4301 on a 4.0/4.6 Engine.
ARP Head Stud Kits Replacing Standard Engine Head Bolts with The ARP Engine Head Stud Set On 4.0/4.6 EnginesHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on an option you have if you're building your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6. And essentially what it is is a replacement set of studs instead of head bolts. Now you know a lot of the newer engines have the torque to yield head bolts, which you see a lot on now aluminum block, aluminum head engines. You're dealing with a high expansion and contraction rate which is why you need that style. But you find if you look, is you see a racing engine torn down, a lot of them will have studs. And studs are a little bit more secure. They cost a little bit more, but they definitely do a better job. So we're just going to give you a brief run down on what you would need to do to install the kit. Now we do stock for these. That's the ARP4301. Great kit. Comes with the studs. Comes with the nuts. And comes with the washers. So, we're going to demonstrate this on a nice new block. But you would normally do your prep work. Of course, clean out each hole, make sure your threads are clean. Run a chaser down there. Make sure they're all cleaned and lubed. With the studs though, what you're going to do is instead of putting a dab of oil on that you would normally do on the head bolts, because the studs are inserted and they're going to be stationary, you're going to take just a dab of thread lock. You can buy these at any parts center. And it just takes 1 or 2 drops. And you just want it so it locks the stud in place. Now you'll notice the nut is designed to be a 12 point. You would use a 5/8ths or a 16 millimeter 12 point socket. You want one in half inch drive so that you can torque these down once you get it together. And you'll also notice that you have a coarse thread on one side, fine thread on the other. The coarse thread obvious goes into the block. The fine thread remains up top for the nut. Now you'll also have 6 studs that will be longer than these and they are going to be in the top 3 center holes. You'll notice that when you take it apart, your head bolts. You're going to have 3 larger than the rest of them on each side. So, make sure you keep note of that when you go to put this together. So essentially all you're really going to need to do, you can do this one of two ways as far as installing it. You can run a nut down on one of the studs. We'll take a little bit of the. And just say you'll only need like a little drop. That's all it takes. We'll run the stud into the whole. And we're just going to bottom it out until it comes to the shaft of the stud so that it will stop at the point. And you'll notice that I don't even need a driver. In some cases you may. You don't need to have them real tight. You just need to snug them. And you can do that with either a stud puller or stud remover which will slide down over the stud and look like a socket. Or just use the socket itself on the nut. And that's all you really need to do. Just lock that in. We'll run the nut out. Let me get a ratchet and we'll put that on there.Reason I do that because most of your larger half inch won't go down or are not accurate at a 35 foot pound reading, where the smaller 3/8ths drive is. So we'll do the same thing as we did on the head. Basically we're going to start here. Go to this. Go to this. And go to this. And then one more time down the row just to make sure everything's squarely torqued. Alright. So here's the finished product. You can see studs in place. Nice neat appearance. Plus the fact is it's definitely a more secure set up than the torque to yield head bolts. So, this is something you might want to recommend, I would recommend that you do if you're doing a head gasket change over. Or you're doing an engine rebuild. You want to hold onto the vehicle for a while. This is the route to go. It's really worth the extra money. So when you're ready to do this to your 4.0 or 4.6 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Tech, remove and replace the engine in our 2000 Discovery Series II with one of our exclusive remanufactured engines. Doug goes in-depth in this engine installation, which in real-time should clock in as a 10 hour service. We recorded the process starting in January 2017 and finishing in November 2017, working on it when time allowed. It actually sat for months, as we had other things on our schedule to work on.
Engine Item # 9257DRK / 9257BRK Replace &Install Short Block Engine Demonstrated on 2000 Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on what unfortunately becomes a pretty common item. As these Discovery's are getting older what's happening is we're running into head gaskets, slip sleeves, damaged cylinders due to burning coolant, a number of different things where you would end up requiring to replace the block before you;d be able to do a proper rebuild. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to remove the engine out of a Discovery. This is a 2000. Essentially 1999 to 2004 are all going to be pretty much the same other than the 2003 and 2004 some have the secondary air that's just a little bit more involved there. But what we have here is a 2000 Discovery. The heads are already off the engine. We made a determination we have a bad cylinder sleeve. And we're going to have to rebuild and replace the block. So, we're going to show you basically what you're going to need if you want to change the engine over on your Discovery. So essentially we're going to start from underneath the vehicle. And there's a lot to unbolt when you get underneath. Main thing is going to be you have 4 bolts that attach the transmission torque converter to the flex plate. We're going to access those from an opening that's just above the starter. We're also going to be taking this little bottom plate off so we have access so we can move the torque converter. This bottom panel that sits underneath the front pulley of the engine, we'll take this out so we can put a ratchet and a socket on the lower crack pulley so we can turn the crank. That makes that easier. Starter wiring. Knock sensor wiring. We've already removed the heads off this engine so we already disconnected at the exhaust so the exhaust is floating free. You've got your 2 cooling lines that run from the transmission up front to the transmission cooler. We're going to unbolt some of that. There are some brackets on that that attach it to the engine. And the of course the bottom bolts for the back of the oil pan. And the 2 on each side above where the transmission bolts to the block. And then the other 2 we'll get to from up top. We're also going to unbolt the, probably unbolt the mounts. You've got 2 nuts on the bottom here. Some of this like the mount bolts you'll want to pre-soaking in penetrating oil before you get into to the rest. Give that a chance to work it's way in. So there's a bit to do. But it's all got to get done. It's not all that bad. It's just a little time consuming but it's nothing but nuts and bolts. All right, so, first things first. We'll start with the heat shield that surrounds the starter. And that will give us access to the 2 wires that attach to the front of the starter. The S wire and the battery cable. And what holds that on, the back of it is a snap clip, but in the front there's a little hidden bolt right up on the engine mount. Just over that plate on the inside. You're going to have to do it by feel. A 10 millimeter head bolt. And that's what attaches to the front of the heat shield to the motor mount. You need to remove that to get the heat shield out of there. So we're going to sneak up in there with a ratchet and short extension, a 10 millimeter socket, take that bolt out. so we've taken the bolt out of that shield on the round the starter as they said there's just a snap clip on there so we push outward and then come back a little bit now like I said earlier you have the battery disconnected so you don't have to worry about shorting out or touching that wire and this is gonna just sneak right out the front steering that comes right out there's the snap clip I'm talking about so you can see this just basically grabs right around the starter solenoid take that out alright so our next step is going to be to disconnect the cables off of the starter and you have o
Jim offers a checklist of things to look for if you suspect your Land Rover is overheating. Watch Jim as he reviews many of the common signs of an overheating engine. Jim also provides an explanation of how to address an overheating engine.
Discovery Series II and All Rover Vehicles: When Rovers Overheat, What to look for & How to resolve.Hi it's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. This morning we're just going to do an overview of your engine is overheating. The first thing you need to do is check the obvious things. Check your coolant level. Like in this truck, you can see it right here. You can actually, you don't have to take anything apart. You can see the coolant is okay. Look at that. If it's okay, another thing is, you have an auxiliary fan up here. Make sure that's running when it gets warm. Also on most of the Rovers you have a viscous fan. When the engine's warmed up you can probably turn the car off when it's hot and just touch the fan. If it feels stiff, that means it's working. Next thing to do when you check for the coolant level, if it was down, you have to figure out where that went. Top it up and have somebody pressure test the system. Let it sit there and then look for obvious leaks. You'll see it on the ground. Discovery 2's are famous for leaking radiators. Everybody buys 2 or 3. Another common leak on this car, the Disco 2, or if you have a Range Rover with the Bosch engine. Over here, on the throttle body there's a heater down on the bottom. You can see 2 little hoses here. It's a throttle plate heater kit. We sell them all the time. It's a common leak. And some people can't figure it out. Some people go oh maybe it's a head gasket. But if you got a puddle of water on your valve cover there it's definitely that. It's a very common leak and it's not a hard repair. I believe we've gone over that at one time. After you do the pressure test and you're not seeing anything going on, like leaking out on the ground which would be hoses, head gaskets or that plate I was just talking about, you need to figure out what's going on. So pressure test it again, and let it sit for quite a while. While you're waiting, take all the spark plugs out. Have it set for a couple hours. And then with 2 people, have somebody turn the engine over with the spark plugs out and see if you're getting some anti freeze out the holes. That's going to tell you there is something wrong with the head gasket or possibly a block. If you tear this engine down, get the head gaskets out and don't see anything really wrong with the head gasket, I would suspect the block. You can get it pressure tested with the heads off. There's a kit that a lot of places have that can do that. If you have the liner problem, on these later engines, it used to be the liner would drop. The later engines that can't happen. They've change the blocks. But what happens is, anti freeze can work between the actual aluminum block and the steel cylinder. It actually works its way up and dumps into the cylinder. You can notice this if you start the engine up cold and it skips for a little while and then clears out. You're maybe looking at a block problem. Especially if it's one of the interior cylinders like 2 and 4 and 3 and 5. It's definitely a block problem. Here at Atlantic British we are rebuilding engines, we have a whole program going, and we actually change out the liner with what they call a top hat style liner. We bore the old one out. We push this new one in. It's sealed. It can't do that again. So if you do have the liner problem we can probably give you another engine. You can call our sales department at 1-800-533-2210. Explain to them what's going on. Think you may have a liner problem. And they can probably hook you up with a rebuilt short block. We also have all the head gaskets. All the hoses. Everything's in kits. It's easy to do. Just grab all your parts. Like I said, check us out on RoverParts.com. Or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and we can probably fix your overheating problem.
Finding quality replacement engines for the Land Rover Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic and Range Rover models has not always been an easy task. Our Engine Rebuild Program offers high-quality 4.0 and 4.6-liter remanufactured BOSCH and GEMS engines - all with improved design and function over the Original Equipment engines! Watch as we walk through the lengths we go to in order to rebuild the highest quality engines. Questions about this video? Check out our engines section , call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Quality Replacement Engines for Land Rover Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic and P38 Range Rover vehicles. Hi. My name is Steve Springer, I'm with Atlantic British, and today we are going to talk about the 9257 engines that Atlantic British remanufactures. This is an example of the long block. It includes both the water pump and the timing cover in addition to the heads here. We install brand new rocker arm assemblies, new push rods, new tappet assemblies. The head is fitted with new valves, both intake and exhaust. And it is also fitted with new valve springs. The only parts that we reuse are the keepers here on the top. In addition to the heads we only use new rod bolts and head bolts. They are all stretchable one use bolts. So we ensure we get proper torque specs by using brand new bolts when we reassemble the engines. In addition we replace the freeze plugs on the side of the engine here and the cam seal here in the back. One thing that makes our rebuilds different than the original engines is that we use a specially designed cylinder flange. When we receive a block back we cut the original cylinder sleeve out of the engine and we reinstall these. Now these have a flange. What this prevents, first of all, is the sleeve sliding down into the cylinder. The other thing that happens is that this then seals against the head in the head gasket. This prevents any exhaust gases from escaping over the edge and down between the cylinder sleeve and the inside of the block. Another thing that makes our engines different is that we have also had manufactured for us special cam bearings and these cam bearings have additional oil ports that allow for a better lubrication on the front of the engine here, where all of the timing components put a little more strain on the cam shaft so this help ensure the camshaft is properly lubricated. When Atlantic British machines these blocks is what we do is we deck the blocks here (imagine the head removed), and what we do is ensure that the top of the block is then parallel saddles on the crank shaft. What that does is ensure the cylinders have the same volume. In other words your engine will run alot smoother, especially at idle, and will keep the stresses even on the inside of the engine. Often times when we receive these blocks back there will be 7 to 9 thousandths of runout between the front of the engine there and the rear of the engine there. And through our machining process we ensure that all of the surfaces are absolutely parallel. In addition, we polish the crank shafts. We do reuse the pistons and the connecting rods after they've been carefully measured, cleaned and we're positive they meet original equipment specifications. We use new pistons rings. We also use a brand new camshaft, and as I mentioned before new camshaft bearings to ensure that the engine operates better than new. 3 different options on these engines. We sell a short engine, which is just this portion of the engine with no heads, no valve components, no water pump and no timing cover. We also sell a version of the engine that has this block as you see it plus the heads and all the valve train components. One thing we need to be careful on these engines is that a Land Rover engine runs on particularly low oil pressure so you have to be sure you have proper oil pressure before you install a new engine. And the oil pump is located here in the lower part of the timing cover. There is a relief valve in the timing cover which allows excess pressure to be put back into the oil pan. However, those are not rebuildable. Often that is the failure of the oil pump. The oil will become a little bit gritty. The overflow piston will stick. The oil pressure will drop and you will end up with an overheating problem in your engine. You don't want that to reoccur in a brand new engine block. That will also void your warranty. This 9257 engine fits the early Range Rovers, the Discovery 1s, the Discovery 2s and the later Range Rovers, the P38s. For more information on these and other high quality products from Atlantic British please check out our website at www.roverparts.com or feel free to call our sales people at 800-533-2210. You can also find us on YouTube and Facebook. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, perform the transmission service using our Kit # TRANSM600SKB on a 1999 Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and replace the transmission filter and gasket, and refill with new transmission fluid, which is included in our service kit. This service also is valid for the Discovery I, Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 P38, with 4-speed ZF transmission; and should be performed every 30,000 miles.
Kit#:TRANSM600SKB Installing Transmission Filter and Service Kit On Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004, 8 Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a maintenance that a lot of people neglect on their vehicles, and that's automatic transmission service. On the Land Rover Discovery's, especially Discovery 2, your Range Rover P38, basically any vehicle across the board, over a period of time the fluid breaks down, the filter becomes restricted, and you end up losing not only shift performance, it can affect your fuel economy and it basically affects the overall drivability of the vehicle. So what we've done is put a kit together. And this is for the 4 speed ZF that was used in the Discovery 2s and the P38s. This will give you enough fluid, a new gasket, a filter, new O rings and the retainer collars for the pan and a drain plug with a new seal. And this is something you actually could do in your driveway. It's actually a relatively easy pan to drop. There's only 6 bolts. There's a drain plug. And just doing the service could do a world of good on your vehicle. So what we're going to do is show you how to install this. And basically show you how relatively easy it is to do a transmission service on this particular vehicle. We're going to do this on a 1999 Discovery 2. This will be very similar to any of the other vehicles, so follow along, I'll show you how to do it. So before we get started what I'm going to do is give you a basic layout of what you'll be getting into. We have a drain plug on the bottom. We're going to take that out first, let the system drain out. And then the only thing you have holding the pan in are 6 small bolts. You have 1 in each corner and then on each side there's 1 in the middle. Now the way they have this configured, they have a lip on the pan that goes all the way around. And on that lip is held in place by these little, I guess you could call them a block or a spacer or whatever you want to call it. But the bolt runs through it. As you can see there. Now when they've been up in place for about 17 years as in this case, they have a tendency to lock themselves in. So I would suggest is if you're a do it yourselfer, and you plan on doing this, you may want to start a week ahead of time and just shoot those bolts down about every other day with penetrating oil let the stuff work its way in. If you're a shop, definitely you still want to get in there and give them a little shock treatment, shoot them up with penetrating oil. You can take a straight punch with a small hammer and just give a wrap. Or if you have access to compressed air, with an air hammer just a quick shot right at the end of each bolt. Hopefully to break the corrosion loose. So that's essentially what you got. Be very careful, these bolts are very susceptible to breaking. It's a very small bolt that run into an aluminum housing. And when they are there for a while they will lock themselves in place. And you won't even know it. You'll spin it out and feel like the bolts turning. It just snaps right off. So if that's the case then you are going to be getting into a repair. So be very careful taking them off. Anyway, so, let's get started. We're going to take this apart. Drop this pan. And get into the filter change. So, we're at the point now, we've run it through the gears. We let our drip down to the pint where we knew we had a good level. Install the new plug. And at this point we're essentially done. We've done a transmission service. So with that new filter in place, like I said, it helps with fuel economy. It definitely adds to the life of the transmission. The fluid does break down after a while. And overall it's just going to let this transmission last a lot longer and perform better. So when you're ready to do the transmission service on your D2 or your P38 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Have you noticed your Range Rover surge or start to lose throttle response? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the throttle body housing demonstrated on a 2008 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Because of it's location under the hood, the throttle body housing does not get good ventilation. The motor that operates the throttle plate on the housing then deteriorates, due to heat and overheating, and malfunctions. Using our Throttle Housing Part # LR006142G, and Throttle Gasket Part # 4536886G you will resolve this problem. This service is also valid for the LR3, Range Rover Full Size (with Jag Engine) and the Range Rover Sport 2006-2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part# LR006142G with 4536886G Remove and Install the Throttle Body Housing and Gasket Demonstrated On 2008 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on something that's not showing up on some of the Supercharged 4.2's, on both the Full Size Range Rover and the Sport. And what's happening is the throttle body's, or actually the motors that operate the throttle plate in the throttle body's are starting to break down from overheating. And how that happens is because of the location of the throttle body. On the regular 4.4 the naturally aspirated it's up front and within the breeze of the fan and it doesn't run as hot, plus it has a cooler in it. Whereas with the Supercharged, it's actually buried back towards the back of the engine down in the area that really doesn't get a lot of ventilation and so it runs in a much hotter area. So we're finding what happens is going down the road under certain conditions all of a sudden the vehicle will surge, start losing throttle response, there's a number of different functions in there. And sometimes it may not even kick a fault code when it happens. So we're finding this seems to be the cause of the majority of them. I've actually done a few over the years, and it does solve that problem. And essentially all you need parts wise is a replacement throttle body. This is original equipment. This is all that you can get right now. The aftermarket companies aren't making these. And a new gasket. And the rest is basically going to be labor to access it and replace it. And you'll see that both are original part numbers and we find that of course they work the best. But again, because of where they're located and the design, they do break down over a period of time. So what I'm going to do is show you how to do the repair on that, and fix that problem. All right, before we begin, what I'm going to do is just give you a quick rundown on some of the tools you may need to do this repair. And as you can see I've got 2 hose pinch pliers, which can be substituted different sizes or small vice grips, so anything in that line. I prefer these because they don't cut into the hose. A long pair of 45 degree angled needle nose, although you can still get in there with a regular needle nose. This just makes the job easier. Small pair of slip joint pliers. Long extension for quarter inch drive along with a 7 millimeter universal. And 8 millimeter deep. A 8 millimeter universal with a shorter extension. You can see I have 2 quarter inch drives here. You can get away with just one. With a 7 millimeter deep. And a straight blade screw driver. Number 3. And a flashlight.What we're going to do now at this point. You'll start your vehicle. Let it sit and idle until it's fully warmed up. Give it a good 6 to 10 minutes. And then just take it for a drive and let everything basically set itself as you're driving. So, when you're ready to get rid of that throttle issue on your Supercharged 4.2 either on the 2006 to 2009 Sport, or the 2006 to 2009 Full Size Range Rover, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Jim demonstrates how to change the ignition wires on a Land Rover Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004. Watch Jim as he reviews the steps necessary to change out the old ignition wires on your Disco. Jim also explains some of the costs and benefits of using Magnecor Ignition wires instead of Genuine ignition wires.
Discussion and Installation Tips: Ignition Cables For Discovery Series II and Range Rover P38 (Bosch engine)Hi it's Jim at Atlantic British. I do the technical support here. We've had a few questions about doing ignition cables on a Discovery 2, which we have here, or a P38 with the Bosch style engine. It's a bear of a job. I'm just going to go through it pretty lightly today. Maybe you will be able to understand why your shop is charging you a lot of money to do this, or why you may not want to do it yourself. We're going to step over here, and the 1st thing you'll notice is these spark plug wires are buried down in here. And then they go back to the coil, which is buried down behind the engine. The only real way to do this job is to get this upper manifold out of here. It's not that difficult. Basically you are going to take the plumbing going to it off this way. There's like 4 bolts up here. There's a couple of water hoses that have to get out of the way. It might be a good idea to get the AC compressor out. Actually, if you're going to do that, it might be a good time to replace the belt, too. Once you get this out, you'll find the coil buried down in back. I have one on my old Rover over here I'll give you a look at so you can see what some of the problems are. If we go around to the other side, you can see the wires here, they go in the loom, buried down into Never Never Land. When you're doing this job, there's a couple things you probably should get. Underneath the manifold there's this gasket. It's a crush gasket. If you take it out. You should put a new one in. Obviously we stock this part. What I wanted to point out with the ignition coil when you get down in there, it's facing you like this. One of the hardest things to get done is getting the spark plug wires in place. I have a genuine wire here. It has a little spacer. It will slide right down in there very nicely. Main thing you want to make sure with this job is this is secured in there. This is the genuine wire. These are $30 apiece. Kind of expensive just to get this little spacer. Here at Atlantic British we like to give you alternatives. Actually we do these coils here - that's an alternative. We sell the Magnacor spark plug wire set. It's a very good set. A lot of hot rod guys use this company. The thing you have to notice on these wires, it doesn't have that little spacer so when you're installing it you have to make sure that this piece gets centered on that little pin on there. Otherwise you'll have a misfire and you won't fix what you're trying to fix to begin with. The Magnecor set of wires here available at Atlantic British, it's $140 for the whole set of 8, compared to $30, like I said earlier, for the genuine ones, are $30 each. Get this all apart and you get confused. I would recommend doing 1 wire at a time. I get phone calls of people got everything apart and they can't seem to figure out where to put the wires. On our website, you can go to Rovers Resources under Discovery and you can find this diagram. Another little picture here I have. This is looking down in the back. That's what you're going to see once you get the manifolding off, where the ignition coil is. There's another picture here that we can send you. It's a little more self explanatory. You have to notice that this is viewed from the back if you were like sitting in the drivers seat looking at your ignition coils. As I said we have everything you need to do this job here at Atlantic British. Check us out at RoverParts.com. Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Check out our sales guys. They know all about this job. What you need to get to do the job. As another thought, thinking about doing this job. If you take the manifold off, that's the perfect time to do your valve cover gaskets, too. They're right there. And I've had a couple of guys tell me it's actually easier to get the valve cover out to feed the wires around the back. So, it's a bear of a job. It's doable. If you have long, skinny, micro fingers you may be able to do it without taking them out. I can't do it. Follow us on Facebook and we'll get you through fixing your Rovers.
Here is the step-by-step process in the removal and installation of the transmission filter conversion kit on a 2005-2009 LR3. Using kit # ATFCK , this is an easy change filter conversion kit for all Rovers using ZF 6HP Automatic Transmission. This includes the LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover L322 models. Installing the original factory filter change kit is a very lengthy process. The original sump and filter are normally one piece and fitting involves jacking the engine up and unbolting the mounts, plus, the removal of the exhaust. This new kit has a two-part filter and pan design, which makes installation much easier. Doug will also address replacement of the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve part number TZV500010G which has a tendency to leak. It is recommended that this sleeve be replaced while you have the pan down. This service is recommended to be performed every 50,000 to 70,000 miles to ensure optimum performance.
Kit #: ATFCK Install the Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion Kit on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a new and innovative product, definitely a labor saving item. This is a transmission kit for the Sports and the LR3s with the 4.4 V8. And what they've done is they've gotten away from the 1 piece pan and filter set up which up to this point, when you went to change over the filter in your transmission you had to remove one of the catalytic converters, the crossmember. You had to support the transfer case. And in some cases we had to take one bolt out of the right side motor mount and we had to jack the engine up to get that out of there. So because of input from alot of Land Rover owners, what they've done is come up with a kit so we have a separate filter and pan so that we can actually install this without taking all this extra out of the vehicle. And what it essentially does is, and those of you who aren't familiar with the original design you have a plastic pan similar to this with a filter in it. The filter is part of the pan with this stem. This stem is what the killer is because you have a cross member. It's only about an inch underneath this pan. So to get these out, you've got to be able to jack the whole drive line up at one point to clear this piece out of here. But now you can just drop the original pan. Cut the old tube off with a hacksaw. Pull that out once we get the pan out of the way. You take the new filter. You pop the filter up in place. And then the pan slides in. And with the kit you get the new filter. The new O ring. New set of bolts. And a metal pan instead of plastic. It's overall going to be a better situation. It also makes it alot easier for do it yourselfers, as opposed to having to bring it to a shop because of all the extra assembly and disassembly. This has been a long time coming. This is a great product. What I'm going to do then is we're going to show you initially how to install it and how we're going to drain it and how we're going to change this over without having to take all that extra pieces out of the vehicle.There we are. So we've reached the point where we've filled this up. We've got 1 drip per second. We capped, put the plug back in. Be very careful because that catalytic converter is going to be very hot. You may want to invest in a set of what they call, actually they are available, kevlar gloves. Just something to keep you from burning your hand on that catalytic converter. Tighten the plug down. Next step is obviously let it run. Let it sit for a minute. You want to check for any leaks around the gasket. Once you're confident that you have no leaks then basically we're done. So at this point now we're going to let it cool down just a little bit. And then we can reinstall the bracket. That supports the heat shield. Put the heat shield back on. And reinstall the front dash plates. So all that we did in the beginning you're just going to reinstall just the way you took it off. Very easy. So, when you're ready to do the transmission service on your LR3 or your Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, or you can click on this link or if you wish to subscribe to our YouTube channel you can click on this link and that will take you to that. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
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