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fuel pump videos
Watch Jim explain the differences between two popular fuel pumps (with or without pressure sensor) for Land Rover Discovery Series 2, 1999 - 2004 models.
Which Fuel Pump Does My Discovery Series II Have? With Or Without Pressure SensorHi it's Jim here at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. We've had a few people call in with a Discovery 2 needing a fuel pump. There's no way from the serial number you can tell which style pump you have in your truck. There's only 2. The easiest way to find out, in the back off your truck, below the carpeting, there's an access panel. There's like 6 screws. Just take it out and you can see the top of your pump. When you call to order your pump here at Atlantic British, 1-800-533-2210, your sales person is going to ask you if you have secondary air or a pressure sensor. The easiest way to differentiate is the pressure sensor. I have the 1 pump here. When you look down you're going to see 2 connections. This one here and this black one. It will have a rubber hose going to it. This is the pump with the pressure sensor. Down here I have the other pump. When you look in you'll see it does not have the pressure sensor. So they're going ask you if you have the pressure sensor or not. That's the easiest way to tell. Can't really do it by the serial number. Can check us out at RoverParts.com. Actually you look up the fuel pumps. There's pretty good pictures there. Not quite as explicit as we're being here. But give us a call 1-800-533-2210. Ask the sales staff that you're looking for a fuel pump for your Disco 2. And he's going to ask you if you have the pressure sensor or not. It's the only clear way to get you the right part. And at Atlantic British we strive to get you the right part.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain removal and installation of 5.0L fuel injectors for all 5.0L V8 from 2010 to 2013 or 2014 depending on your model Land Rover or Range Rover. Doug uses a bare head in our demonstration to show removal and replacement of the fuel injector (part # LR079542 ). Questions about this video? Call 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British in this video we're gonna touch base on fuel injector replacement on the five liter v8 from 2010 to 102 thousand thirteen fourteen depending on what model and what we're gonna do is show you how to remove and replace the injector on a bare head because there are a lot of variations to the different model and Rovers out there that use this engine so what we're gonna do is just get you take it to the point where you've done the disassembly as far as the valve covers and the and the installation covers and again the differences between supercharged and non supercharged too many differences to list here so essentially just a matter of replacing the injector so what we have here basically is a high-pressure injector now if you're not familiar with the five liters they essentially use a low pressure pump normally it's gonna run about fifty five sixty pounds of pressure to a set of high-pressure pumps that are mounted underneath the engine and they in turn are gonna raise your fuel pressure to twenty one hundred foot-pounds of pressure which means at this point right here you have over two thousand psi of pressure so this is a system you want to be careful with now in the beginning Land Rover says of course the first thing you're going to do is you want to depressurize the system before you even start any disassembly whatsoever and that's relatively easy you go to your owner's manual you can identify the fuel pump fuse you're gonna remove that fuse and then just run the vehicle until it basically quits once it quits you're going to still leave the fuse out you're going to crank the engine another five or ten seconds just to make sure you've completely depressurize the system and then from that point you can take the lines off the fuel rail that's information you can look up and get online or talk to people on the forums you're even just invest in a service manual if you're gonna do your own work so at that point then you're going to take it down to this where we're ready to remove the fuel injector now two things I want to mention is there is a teflon seal mounted on the bottom of these that if you're going to reuse the old injector you're going to actually remove the the nylon seal and we're going to show you that in a minute and the other thing that land rover recommends again is these retainers that hold them in place once the fuel rail is in and from there they say you want to keep the same retainer with the injector if you were reusing the old injectors in this case we're actually going to be looking at replacement most cases you're going to replace them you're not going to reuse them so we remove the retainer and then we have the special tool and I do strongly recommend using this as its opposed to trying to get underneath and remove this as simply pushed in place but you really don't want to try to pry on it or you might end up doing damage below so you're going to use this puller which is essentially just a small slide hammer and these jaws at the bottom will spread and you're gonna seat the tool against the top which will get you lined up in that groove and then push this collar down to lock it in so the top essentially just acts as a small slight hammer now of course if you pullin up I use the injector and you've got varnish buildup on the bottom you're gonna need a little bit more force to take it off but it will come then you're gonna just simply raise that collar split the jaws and remove that now this is the nylon ring that I was talking about way in rover States if you're gonna just replace that ring you actually have an installation tool and a resizer the installation tool just seats over the end of the injector and you're gonna slide the new ring over that of course will spread the ring so once the ring is in place you have a sizing tool now this tool is labeled number one and number two so number one will slide over the end and bring the size of the of the o-ring down to a certain point well then you flip it around number two being just a little bit smaller and then that's going to run over the top of that and now your size the reinstallation again just that easy and really just the next step is to install the new injector and put your vehicle back together so now we're ready to install this injector now when you get a new fuel injector it's already gonna come with the teflon seal already on the end and it should already be sized we're gonna take the protective ends off and then now Land Rover recommends if you're reusing the old injectors if you're just taking them out to do with new seals and whatnot make sure that you use the retainer that was on that particular injector they should stay together there's basically stating that there may be up a mated or just the fact that it's sized to fit that injector you want to reuse the old one in the case of the new ones usually recommend get the new retainers they install very easily they essentially just slide over the top of the injector you can push that down spread them a little bit and so that's what your installed retainer is gonna look like now the other thing I like to do and I've been doing this with fuel injectors over the years and the fuel rails take some clean Vaseline nothing that you dirty that you've used for engine working one up just a very very light coating and you're gonna rub your fingers on the o-ring on the top and then just a little bit on the teflon seal on the bottom and that sort of gives you a little bit more protection from ripping that teflon seal when you install now in regard to installing the tool there is a ridge right there on the injector itself we're gonna take that retainer back off and just wanted to show you how they go on because we're actually going to really install it once it's installed in the head and then of course the removal tool will also act as an installation tool so we want to wrap that around that essentially so that the little tangs inside the tool are gonna grab around the top of the injector and then slide that down to lock it in place so then what you're going to do - you have to remember your orientation when you remove the injector from off the head as far as where your your connector is now in this case we have a brand new head I really don't have the orientation here in front of me but as far as the installation I'm just gonna seat that very gently and then just tap in place lift and separate double-check just to make sure no damage to the o-ring again we just got a nice light coating on there so then at this point then you can slide your new retainer on drop that in place and now you're ready to reassemble so that's essentially all that's necessary and we have been running into a lot of calls on these injectors I'm either due to electrical or just basically getting restricted on top from from varnish build-up and whatnot and because of all the differences on the 5 liters as far as super charging non super charged you just basically gonna follow your procedure the way you took it apart just reverse everything okay so that's essentially yet very easy to do when you have the right tools this being the most important because one you could try to pry that injector out of there with another tool you probably end up doing some damage that are very fragile and you got to remember dealing with the pressures that are being applied it at these that you want to make sure everything's together and clean and seated exactly right so when you're ready to change over the injectors on your 5 liter Land Rover you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at one eight hundred five three three two two one zero or you can click on this link and order them online and if you liked our how-to video would like to see more you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and see more so we thank you for watching and Rover on.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform an engine & transmission adaption reset on a 1999-2004 Land Rover Discovery Series II, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone , is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How To Use the iLAND App Engine and Transmission Adaption Reset Demonstrated on the Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about adaptions. Or better yet, clearing adaptions. What adaptions are is the control module for the engine and the control module for the transmission. As you drive the vehicle, will adapt to changes in the sensors, changes in your driving habits and essentially adapts to keep the vehicle within a certain efficiency level. So what happens is, should you develop a fault, like a mass airflow sensor or a transmission shift fault or anything else that will affect the drivability of the vehicle. After you've done the repair you need to clear the adaptions. Now I'll just quickly explain in the case of a mass airflow sensor, mass airflow sensor has deteriorated, so what happens is the system has adapted and constantly adapted until it's reached a certain limit it can no longer adapt. And you basically get your fault code. And you have to do a repair. You put the new airflow sensor in it, and what happens now is that's reading correctly, but your still running off the old adaptions and the cars going to run worse than it did before you did the repair, and you're going to think that's not the problem. What you need to do, any time you change O2 sensors, throttle body, throttle position, mass airflow sensor, you should always clear adaptions. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to do that with the new iLAND and how easy it is to do. And it's also very important so keep watching. Alright, so you now the basics. You're going to plug your iLAND in. You have your dongle that you plug into the diagnostic. You go through the basics and then you're going to go to this screen. Now on this screen you'll notice all the vehicles, all the blocks, are in the red. This is because this is the Pro series and we have access to all these different vehicles. If you've purchased an iLAND, you can get for just 1 design vehicle, like in this case say Discovery, it will be just red block on Discovery, the rest will be in white. So we're going to pick our Discovery, We'll go through what the call garage disclaimers. It's telling me we're in the current version, otherwise it would list another version underneath and we would load that in just so we know that we have the latest and the greatest. We'll hit confirm. And it's going to connect with the Bluetooth. And just give it a few minutes or a few seconds actually. It doesn't take that long. Here's our choices. We can go to any one of these Discovery versions. We're in a 1999 Discovery 2. And we'll go to engine. Now essentially all the Discovery 2s are going to be BOSCH motronic. No other system. That's basically the only petrol system they used on these with the 4.0 and later on the 4.6. So we now the ignition is on. The keys on, we can see our lights. Now you've got this listing of all the capabilities. But we're going to go down to vehicle maintenance. Gives you a little warning as far as looking at who should be working on the vehicle. Now here we have reset adaptions. This is very easy where we're going to hit that. It's going to sort of explain what adaptions are. And under what conditions you should be doing this under. Like say basically fuel injector. Lambda sensor, which is essentially O2 sensor. Fuel pump, mass airflow sensor, intake manifold leak or air leak repair. All that can affect adaptions. So then it's going to ask you at the bottom, basically confirm do you wish to reset ECM adaptions. So we're just going to do that. And they've been reset. Just that quickly, just that easy. But now what it has done it has reset all of the initial setting for the ECM back to original factory settings. So we hit OK. And we're all done with that. Then we can back up. And it's usually best that if you do one you should always do the other. It's reasonably easy to do. Just get this to back up here. Maybe it just doesn't like that finger. There we go. So we're back to part of our menu. We're going to go back one more. Ok. So now these are all the different modules we have access to. So we're going to go to auto gear box. Essentially transmission. Ignition is still on. It's going to reconnect. Ok. So now we've connected with the transmission control module. We'll go to vehicle maintenance. We hit Ok. And there right on top is reset adaptions. And we'll hit that. Then again it's going to go through and explain why you would do this and under what conditions. And then at the bottom of course there's your confirmation do you wish to reset ECU adaptions. We'll hit yes. And there you go. Adaptions have been reset successfully. So now we've done both engine and transmission, it didn't even take 5 minutes. So now we'll back up. We'll get back to the main menu. And then of course when you go to do this it will say really quit. We're going to back out of that. And at this point it is a reminder make sure you don't leave the dongle plugged into the diagnostic plug. And we'll hit Ok because we pulled it out. And that's it. That's basically a very easy thing to do. Especially with the iLAND and it's very important to do as you can see under certain repair conditions so that you know when you're done and you restart your vehicle it's going to run right. So, if you're going to get into repairs on your Discovery 2, again that's 1999 to 2004, and you find you need a tool that's going to be able to do the reset for adaptions just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can order your iLAND online at this link. And if you liked our how to video, and would like to see more you can go to our YouTube channel and subscribe and view all our different videos that we've done to help you keep your Land Rover in good order. So thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to access and replace the power steering pump on a 1999 - 2004 Discovery Series II. The power steering pump is a common replacement item, and it is recommended that the hoses related to this installation be replaced too. Kit # 9397D2 includes the pump to box, reservoir to pump, and low pressure hoses. Doug will also touch base on the power steering reservoir discussing issues that develop over time with this part. You will also need the ACE and power steering fluid to complete this service.
Kit # QVB500080OE Installing Power Steering Pump & Hoses and Fluid on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on another very common repair, mostly on the Discovery 2s, Discovery 1s, P38s, any of the 4.0 or 4.6 engines, is power steering pump. You'll find that over a period of time there's several reasons why these pumps can fail. You may develop a bad power steering leak which is a wearout of the seal. Could be bearing failure, or an actual internal failure of the impeller or the drive unit internally. All right, so this is the pump that's going to be used on your vehicle. And essentially what you have here is most of your hydraulic system which is the pump, this is the gravity feed line that would run from the reservoir down to the pump, from the pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the power steering box, and then from the box back up to the reservoir. Now what happens is these can fail internally, you could have a leaky seal, or you can have a bearing failure. If it's an internal or a bearing failure I would generally recommend not only do you replace the hoses, you're going to take a good look at them when you take the system apart, but inside the reservoir, and I don't know how well you're going to see it on the video, but straight down inside you actually have a filter built into these reservoirs. If you have a pump failure or a hose failure, and these hoses can wear internally, they're just strictly rubber hoses. That material will build up on that filter. And that's basically there to keep those contaminants from going through the system. Eventually that filter can get plugged up to the point where you won't get sufficient flow from the reservoir down to the pump and create a whining, or an erratic steering. So if you've got 100,000 miles on it and you're replacing the pump due to a failure, or you've had a hose collapse internally, you want to get that reservoir as well. Make sure you have a good clean filter in there and it will help the system operate. And also importantly is the fluid that's used in the system. This is fluid supplied and made by Land Rover called Active Corner Enhancement Power Steering Fluid, or short ACE Fluid. And what will happen is if you use regular power steering fluid or Dexron 3 in these pumps, over a period of time it will cause internal damage. They're not made to be used with that fluid. This is the fluid that is specially formulated for the system, that can make a world of difference on how long it last you after you do a replacement. So what we're going to do now is going to show you how access and replace the pump, how to access the hoses and then do some visual inspections to give you an idea if you should be replacing other components as well. You'll see some bubbling in the top fluid, because we know we definitely pushed some air through there. Now we're just going to let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes, let that air bleed out of the system, And then you can cap it off. And you should be ready to go. What I suggest is take it for a test drive. When you get home shut it off. Let it sit for a few minutes. And then double check your height. You may use a little bit more fluid. You may need to add just a little bit to get it to the full line. As of that, you've replaced your power steering pump, saved yourself a lot of money and ready to go for another 100,000 miles. So, when you're ready to change over your power steering pump or any of your hoses, just call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch our Land Rover Technician, Doug, give an in-depth and step-by-step demonstration of the replacement of the coolant hoses and thermostat on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005. The proper hose kit includes all the coolant hoses and thermostat necessary for a full service replacement. This procedure is recommended every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: 9370LSKA Replacing Coolant Hoses & Thermostat On Range Rover Full Size 2003 - 2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch on the cooling hose kit for the 2003 to 2005 Range Rover Full Size, the HSE. And what we're going to do is actually show you how to install this kit. Now what comes with the kit is essentially every cooling hose under the hood. Your heater hoses. Upper and lower radiator hoses. Bypass and vent hoses. We also include the thermostat, which is a known unit for these to create problems, so it's good to put a new thermostat in while you have the system broken down. It includes the O rings to seal the unit. And factory plug. And the kit number which is part of our maintenance and service program is 9370LSKA. Includes all these hoses, thermostat and basically everything you need to replace the hoses under the hood. Okay, so if you have access to one it is always best when you're done doing anything in the cooling system. You've put some anti freeze in it and you're now going to do a pressure test. And essentially what you're going to do by pumping it up you're going to apply a fair amount of pressure to this system. And then give it a little bit of time so if there is a leak, or if there is a slow leak, it will show up. And you're simply just going to go around and check all the points where you've put a connection on and see if there is any wetness. Upper and lower hose. Bypass hoses. Back to your heater hoses. Your 2 connections at the back of the engine. Your connections upfront by the access auxiliary pump and to the control valves. And it looks like we're all nice and dry at all out points. And actually it's usually best some times to leave this for about half an hour. Walk away from it. Come back. See if your pressure reading has dropped. If it's right about where you had it at, where you left it, you're good to go. Now it's just a matter of take this back off. We'll top the system off. Put it back together and do a road test just to make sure everything is on good and tight. Okay so now we've tested our system, we've buttoned it up. We're going to put the covers and the plenum chamber back in which we showed you how to take that out in the beginning. Very simple installation. And that pretty much wraps up the installation of the hose kit. Now again the part number of this hose kit is 9370LSKA. We'll give you all the hoses that you need. You follow these directions you should have no problem installing them. To order this kit you can call our number at 1-800-533-2210 and any our knowledgeable salesmen will be happy to help you out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to bleed the brakes on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using Motive Products Power Bleeder, Part #s 9508 & 9508K with standard kit plus adapters (or separate adapters kit # 9508A). This demonstration is also applicable on all Land Rovers and Range Rovers. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Using Motive Products Power Bleeder (#9508) Bleeding Brakes This Demo Performed On A Range Rover Full Size 2003 - 2005 (L322)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a brake bleeder tool that I have available that can make it a lot easier for those of you that don't have air pressure. Don't have a compressor. Like to do your own work. Bleed the brakes. This tool will help you greatly. This is the 9508, and what you get is a canister that will hold looks like to be a half a gallon of brake fluid. And simply all it is is just a pump up pressurizer and you would attach this to the master cylinder using this adapter that comes with it. This will fit the majority of your crew on caps for your master cylinders. If by chance you have one of the older models with the larger caps and the larger openings, we have an adapter kit available, the 9508A, or you can save a little money and get both together with the 9508K kit. So what we're going to do is show you how to hook this up, how to go through and do a bleed and show you how easy it is to use this tool. So what we've done now is we have this hooked up to the master cylinder. Now in this case the adapter that came with it actually threaded right on the master cylinder. And this is on the L322. So this worked out very well. What you need to do then is to test the fitting that connects the 2 hoses. Give it a good snug fit. Doesn't have to be super tight. Just make sure you have a good seal. Going to fill the fluid up about half way up the bottle. And then you have a pressure gauge on this where you're simply going to hand pump. And you can bring it up around 15. And then what we're going to do is start from the furthest point of the master cylinder and work our way forward. So you're going to start at the right rear, then left rear, right front and then left front. And then it always doesn't hurt to go back and crack the back ones open 1 more time after that just to make sure you got everything out. Handy little tool. You don't need shop air. And it doesn't take all that long to really get it up to 15 pounds. You don't need much more than that. All you're looking to do is push the air out. You're not looking to blow up the lines. So I'll let it sit for a minute. Wait until we see some of this flow out. Try and get a spot where we are fairly level here. This way we can keep an eye on our level. We definitely don't want to run that dry. So, let's start at the right rear. So we only need to really back this off 1 and 1/2 turns. Then we'll wait a few minutes to for it to work its way back. Now in this vehicle we replaced hoses and lines. So it's going to take a little while because we're basically starting with an empty system. You can actually feel a little pressure in the line when you put your finger over the end of the bleeder. So you know you got fluid coming. So here we got a nice steady stream. I'll crack it open one more time. You can see we got a good steady stream with no bubbles. No we're just going to close that down. We don't have to really tighten it because we're going to come back to do that one more time. So, essentially the same process to left rear, right front, left front, and then back one more time do the rears and you should be good. You should have a nice tight pedal. Now you want to check the instructions if you are using this tool. Some vehicles require to have an analyzer hooked up to it to flutter and open and close the valves in the ABS system. Some vehicles do require that. In this particular case you can do a standard bleed and you'll get your pedal back. So, this is a nice little tool to have. It's relatively inexpensive. Great for around the house. You do your own brake work and whatnot, this is a great tool, especially when it comes time to do a brake flush, which you really should do on a regular basis on most vehicles. So when you're ready to so do, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the alternator for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009. This replacement is also similar on the LR3 V8 4.4L and the Range Rover Full Size with the Jag engine. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part #: YLE500390 Replace / Install Alternator Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport SuperchargedHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about alternators. Now something that I've seen come up on a pretty regular basis lately on some of the Sports and the LR3s is a failure of the alternator. Actually a failure of the diode in the alternator. And some of the most common systems of what I'm getting on the phone calls is an intermittent lighting of the battery warning light on the dashboard, and a sudden increase in the noise from the cooling fan. And essentially what happens is when the diode goes it induces an AC current into the system that the body control module basically interprets as energize the front fan. And so it will sound louder than you will normally hear it. So those are 2 of the symptoms that are starting to show up on a pretty regular basis. A lot of these vehicles are getting older. They're hitting the high miles. These alternators have seen 130 150 some of them 190,000 miles and it's starting to affect them. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install an alternator on this from underneath. I know in the service manual the installation is a little more involved. We have some tricks to show you that will help you speed that up. And there's something else to look for while you're working in that general area. So let's get started. All right, so, right off the bat the first thing we want to do is disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Before I do that, and before you even get started, I did want to show you a tool that you're going to need to be able to release the belt tension you got to take off in order to be able to access to alternator. And this is similar, there are other models out there, but it's similar design, basically just a long thin bar with a 12 point cut out on the end of it. They'll come with different sockets for the sizes. You'll need a 15 mm on this. This particular application is going to basically apply to both the Sport and the LR3. Same design as the 4.4 engine. And then on some vehicles, and we may find we need to do it on this, there's essentially a plate that adapts to different angles on this and then is held in place by a bolt. That will give you an access angle that will get up to the tensioner to slip the belt off. We're not going to take the belt off completely. All we need to do is get it off the alternator. All right, we're going to start with disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. You have 2 tabs in the front that hold this cover down. Pop that out of the way. Simply pull that out. Negative lead is going to be the one closest to the back of the vehicle. It's a 13 mm. You can do it with a pair of pliers if you want. You just need to loosen that a turn or 2.As you can see you have 1 up there. You have the idler in the back. And on the power steering pump. And on the AC compressor. That all looks really good. So, we release the tension. Pop all this out. Make sure you get your tool out of that tensioner. Most times as I say I pop it out and sure enough it leaves that little extension in there. Always check that. Make sure you don't leave any under the hood. So essentially at this point your alternator is in. And all we're going to do now is put back the side cover that has the 4 plastic rivets, the front panel here. And the splash pan. And what I probably suggest you do at this point before you go putting all that back on, drop it down and start it up and make sure everything is working right and also make sure, put a volt meter across the battery. Make sure that unit is charging. But you should be good at this point. And this should take care of both that intermittent battery light and that noisy front fan. So when you're ready to install the alternator on your Sport or LR3, and I will say that the LR3 and Sport without the Supercharger is a little bit easier because there isn't so much plumbing in the way, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, strip down the front engine compartment and complete the timing chain and related components on a Range Rover Sport 2011 (non-supercharged). This service is not recommended for the do-it-yourselfer, and will give you a new appreciation for your Land Rover tech. The job requires special tools (covered in the video) and in-depth knowledge of the Range Rover. The genuine Timing Chain Kit # TCK5030 provides all the components you need for a complete timing chain and timing component overhaul on an LR4, Range Rover Full Size or Range Rover Sport (see years for exact fitment.) Includes 3 chains, guides, shoes and related parts for a complete replacement and overhaul. The specialty tools needed for this job are available as related items with kit # TCK5030 on our website. Gareth will also address changing out the water pump and thermostat, and camshaft sprockets, which is part of tearing down to access timing chain and /or recommended wear replacements. Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Finding quality replacement engines for the Land Rover Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic and Range Rover models has not always been an easy task. Our Engine Rebuild Program offers high-quality 4.0 and 4.6-liter remanufactured BOSCH and GEMS engines - all with improved design and function over the Original Equipment engines! Watch as we walk through the lengths we go to in order to rebuild the highest quality engines. Questions about this video? Check out our engines section , call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Quality Replacement Engines for Land Rover Discovery, Defender, Range Rover Classic and P38 Range Rover vehicles. Hi. My name is Steve Springer, I'm with Atlantic British, and today we are going to talk about the 9257 engines that Atlantic British remanufactures. This is an example of the long block. It includes both the water pump and the timing cover in addition to the heads here. We install brand new rocker arm assemblies, new push rods, new tappet assemblies. The head is fitted with new valves, both intake and exhaust. And it is also fitted with new valve springs. The only parts that we reuse are the keepers here on the top. In addition to the heads we only use new rod bolts and head bolts. They are all stretchable one use bolts. So we ensure we get proper torque specs by using brand new bolts when we reassemble the engines. In addition we replace the freeze plugs on the side of the engine here and the cam seal here in the back. One thing that makes our rebuilds different than the original engines is that we use a specially designed cylinder flange. When we receive a block back we cut the original cylinder sleeve out of the engine and we reinstall these. Now these have a flange. What this prevents, first of all, is the sleeve sliding down into the cylinder. The other thing that happens is that this then seals against the head in the head gasket. This prevents any exhaust gases from escaping over the edge and down between the cylinder sleeve and the inside of the block. Another thing that makes our engines different is that we have also had manufactured for us special cam bearings and these cam bearings have additional oil ports that allow for a better lubrication on the front of the engine here, where all of the timing components put a little more strain on the cam shaft so this help ensure the camshaft is properly lubricated. When Atlantic British machines these blocks is what we do is we deck the blocks here (imagine the head removed), and what we do is ensure that the top of the block is then parallel saddles on the crank shaft. What that does is ensure the cylinders have the same volume. In other words your engine will run alot smoother, especially at idle, and will keep the stresses even on the inside of the engine. Often times when we receive these blocks back there will be 7 to 9 thousandths of runout between the front of the engine there and the rear of the engine there. And through our machining process we ensure that all of the surfaces are absolutely parallel. In addition, we polish the crank shafts. We do reuse the pistons and the connecting rods after they've been carefully measured, cleaned and we're positive they meet original equipment specifications. We use new pistons rings. We also use a brand new camshaft, and as I mentioned before new camshaft bearings to ensure that the engine operates better than new. 3 different options on these engines. We sell a short engine, which is just this portion of the engine with no heads, no valve components, no water pump and no timing cover. We also sell a version of the engine that has this block as you see it plus the heads and all the valve train components. One thing we need to be careful on these engines is that a Land Rover engine runs on particularly low oil pressure so you have to be sure you have proper oil pressure before you install a new engine. And the oil pump is located here in the lower part of the timing cover. There is a relief valve in the timing cover which allows excess pressure to be put back into the oil pan. However, those are not rebuildable. Often that is the failure of the oil pump. The oil will become a little bit gritty. The overflow piston will stick. The oil pressure will drop and you will end up with an overheating problem in your engine. You don't want that to reoccur in a brand new engine block. That will also void your warranty. This 9257 engine fits the early Range Rovers, the Discovery 1s, the Discovery 2s and the later Range Rovers, the P38s. For more information on these and other high quality products from Atlantic British please check out our website at www.roverparts.com or feel free to call our sales people at 800-533-2210. You can also find us on YouTube and Facebook. Thanks for watching.
Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to identify the secondary air engine on Land Rover Discovery Series II 1999 - 2004 and Range Rover 4.0 and 4.6 1995 - 2002 model vehicles.
Identifying Secondary Air Engine Discovery Series II & Range Rover P38Hi it's Jim here at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. Today we're going to talk about secondary air injection on Disco 2's and Range Rover P38's. People have a hard time trying to figure out if their car has it or not. It's not a VIN range or something like that. It's a physical thing. You got to look. We have a Disco 2 here. I can show you what you should look for under the hood. We're going to move over to the car now. What you need to be looking for once you raise the hood is this valve that's over here. This is a vacuum control valve and it runs down to the cylinder head. There's one on each side. It's hard to see the one on the driver's side because there's a bunch of duct work there. You really want to look for this part. Also in the same area you should find the air pump. That's the way you tell. P38 Range Rover with the Bosch engine is the same pump and the same valves. Here at Atlantic British not only to we serve you with great parts. We give you great information. If you need parts for your air injection system we carry a full stock. You can check it out on the website RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. And don't forget to follow us on YouTube.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give a demonstration of the process involved in installing new front and rear brake rotors and brake pads on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series II. Our money-saving kit includes brake rotors and brake pads for a front and rear service. Please note: This How-To video applies to all our brake rebuild kits for Discovery Series II.
Kit # 9542AG Rebuilding Brake Rotors and Pads on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on probably one of the most common do it yourself jobs that our customers do and that's brakes. You can save yourself a lot of money by doing the brakes yourself. If you have even the most basic of mechanical ability, and follow the instructions you can do these brakes yourself. Now what we're going to do is, I'll give you a quick rundown on the kit that we have available, which is kit 9542AG, and what that will include is rotors, front and back, brake pads, front and back, new bolts for your caliper mounts, and new retainer screws for the rotors. Now what I'll do is give you a rundown, Starting off you're going to need some basic tools, and you're going to need some tools that you may not necessarily have in your kit. You're going to need probably a good 32 ounce hammer. You're going to use this for both the hand impact and to knock the rotors off the hub. A pair of slip joint or water pump pliers. A nice wire brush. A 12 millimeter socket on a short extension and three eighths drive. A screw driver that you're mostly going to use for prying and for moving. A three eighths drive ratchet. A three quarter inch 12 point socket. And these will be for the 2 retainer bolts that hold the caliper mount on the knuckle. And a good half inch drive ratchet. Now I use the longer handle on this. If you have a short handle ratchet you'll probably want to use a cheater pipe or an extension to give you more leverage. Those 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place are going to be tight. Especially if they are the first time coming off. So there's our kit. There's our tools. Now I have the advantage of obviously having this up on a lift. If you're doing this in your driveway, make sure you put a good support, jack stands underneath. Always have a second type of support. A wooden block, another floor jack, something underneath. You can never be too safe when you're working underneath a vehicle. So now let's give you a rundown on how to change over your brakes. When you're ready to do the brakes, as I said, this is probably one of the most common DIY projects you'll do. This is probably good for a long afternoon or full weekend day. But to do it right is well worth it in the long run. You'll save yourself alot of money. When you're ready to do so, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
Doug gives an overview look of the front engine cover on a 4.0 / 4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid-1999 to 2004 with Bosch Systems. Common failures / issues and how to identify and resolve.
An Overview Look at the Front Engine Cover on 4.0/4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid - 1999 to 2004 with Bosch SystemsCommon Failures / Issues and How to Identify and ResolveHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video I think what we're going to do is take an overview look of the front engine cover on 4.0 and 4.6 Land Rover engines. Used primarily from mid 1999 - 2004 and this engine is the type with the Bosch system. There's several things that you can look for on front covers. They actually hold a very important part in regards to engine design and control. And so we're going to touch base on a few things just to give you an idea of what you are dealing with. Now this is a nice fresh front cover, right out of an engine. All cleaned up. Now the first thing you'll notice in the front of course, is your mount for your water pump. You have a gasket between the water pump and the front cover and you can at different points have these gaskets fail where you can develop a coolant leak. This opening right here is for your cam position sensor. Which, when you do some work on the front of the motor you will see two wires actually, enter at this point. One will be to the cam sensor and the other sensor you have is your oil pressure sensor. Now, this has the newer design on it, with the rectangular opening for the connector instead of the single spade. If you are converting from an earlier Bosch engine with the single spade sensor, and of course when you order a new one you will get this design. There is also a jumper wire you will need to get to attach the two together. It's just a small jumper. Down below that is your oil filter housing. Your oil filter would screw on to the bottom here. And these two white plugs would be your connections for your oil cooler if your vehicle is equipped with an engine oil cooler. Some do, some don't. If you don't, you'll find two brass plugs in there that look similar to this one. If you do, of course they would be open and at the end of those two lines are two small O rings where you can also develop oil leaks so it is a good area to look into. Now if you come around to the back you get into the guts of the front cover. Here lies a gasket all the way around. And they are known to create failure on the driver side top corner, the gasket likes to pop out. You can see you have a relatively thin area for it to seal. And you will get some times and I've run into this before on diagnosing some of these, the coolant leak that you can't find because it is essentially in a very hidden area and it starts off as a very slow leak. So this would be an area to look at if you feel you are losing coolant, you know you have a leak but you just can't find it, this is a good place to look. Then you have your oil pump. The oil pump is mounted internally in the cover, and the cover itself is actually the outer machined area of the oil pump. In the oil pump you have your central drive gear. This is driven by the crankshaft, and then it turns this rotor, which in turn, turns this rotor, and they're designed to run in an eccentric design so as the gearing crushes together it creates pressure, and at the very bottom, built into this you will see the oil pressure bypass valve, that little spring down inside the housing and that is the exiting point of your oil, from that point to your filter and into the rest of your engine. So that pretty much covers the front cover. Now, something just a quick mention: on the Bosch design, with the oil pump, this is your connection for your oil pick up tube. Which means to remove this front cover you also need to remove the oil pan. So if you should be replacing this gasket and you're ordering your parts be sure to get an oil pan gasket. You're going to need it because you're going to remove the oil pan to access it. Other than that, this is pretty much a basic design. This is the same front cover you'll see on all the 4.0 and 4.6 with a Bosch design. Clear cut, aluminum, light weight and now that you have an idea of what problems may occur on this, you know where to look. Again, I'm Doug, tech support representative for Atlantic British. Any of the parts we stock for this you can order through any of our knowledgeable salesmen, and you can reach us at 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
Watch Doug as he takes you through an ACE Filter and Fluid Service for a Range Rover Sport. Procedure works for vehicle models from 2006 through 2013. ACE Filter (Item # RVJ100010) and ACE Fluid (Item # STC50519G) are needed for the service.
ACE Filter and Fluid Service for Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2013 Equipped with Directional Stability ControlHi I'm Doug, your tech representative for Atlantic British, and we're going to do a video on how to replace your filter for your ACE system on 2006 to 2013 Range Rover Sports. Now we did an earlier video to describe how you can identify whether your Sport is equipped with that or not simply by the additional reservoir on the right hand side of the radiator. In this video we are going to show you how easy it is to change the filter. Now the filter looks like this. The kit comes with a filter and with the O ring and is easily replaced, simply from underneath the vehicle. Now, Land Rover recommends in their maintenance schedule that this filter be replaced every 75 thousand miles, and in the same time you can also drain off a fair amount of fluid which with the fresh fluid and fresh filter, bring your system back up to full operating specs. Now again, the filter does come with a new O ring, which is good, and we're going to show you the simple and easy procedure to change this. Now you're also going to need a couple quarts of ACE fluid which we also stock. This is also your power steering fluid, so it's also good to have a little bit around the house any way just to top of fluids when you need to. And as you can see, this is made specifically for the ACE system. There are substitute fluids that you can use that some people will recommend, power steering fluid and what not, but we recommend that you do not use that. Land Rover says definitely use the ACE fluid for that system and for power steering, it is the most compatible fluid for that system. Now I'm going to show you where the location is for this filter. I'm going to bring this over. With the vehicle raised in the air, and on the passenger side of the vehicle, is the valve block for the ACE system. Now the system is also described in the Sports as Directional Stability Control, so if you hear that referred to they're also talking about this same block. This large nut right here, which is an inch and a half, is removed, and the filter simply slides out and the new one slides back in. You replace the O ring back on the nut, and then replace the cap back in nice and tight and snug. Now you can allow the system to drain off with this plug out. There won't be any pressure in the plug when you take this out with the engine not running and the pumpnot operating there will be no pressure, so you don't have to worry about that. You may, however, get splattered a little bit so you want to stand back. Let the fluid drain. You may need to grab the filter with a pair of pliers. Sometimes they do get a little snug, especially on first time changeover. Reinstall the new one in the same position as you took the old one out in. Reinstall your cap. Drop the vehicle down. Top off the tank. Start the vehicle. Let it run for a minute or so. Shut it down and then set your level in your reservoir. And again, the reservoir for the ACE is on the right hand side of the radiator and does use ACE fluid. And that's pretty much it. This is a fairly simple maintenance item. Again recommended every 75 thousand. A lot of people forget to do that. It is advisable and it will obviously help keep the ACE system operating properly. That's about it, and we'll see you in the next video. Again. if you should decide to do this on your vehicle, we do stock the parts here at Atlantic British, and you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks again.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform a brake bleed, a function that must be done on Discovery Series II after work on your brake system. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone , is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How To Use The iLAND App Brake Bleeding Demonstrated on the Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you one of the features on the new iLAND for the Discovery II. Now the Discovery II has a brake system that if you were to open up the system, either for caliper, master cylinder repair, ABS, whatever, and you need to bleed the system afterwards, there is actually a 3 step procedure on the brake bleeding. And one of the steps, or actually the 2 last steps you do need a diagnostic tool that will complete this procedure. So what we're going to do is we're going to get on our iLAND. We've basically gotten to this screen which was just the initial set up screen. We hit confirm. Then it comes up our choices Discovery 1 through 4. This is a Discovery 2. And we want to go to ABS. We make sure our ignition is on. This is position 2. Have your lights on in your dash. We're good there. And this is going to set this up. And then essentially you are going to go down through to the vehicle maintenance. Just going to read through this warning. And there you have brake bleeding. Now what you'll start with in this first step of a brake bleeding procedure on a D2 is the old fashion way you either have somebody pump the pedal or you have a pressure bleeder attached to the master cylinder, you're going to run the system through and then bleed at all 4 corners. After you've completed that, then you come back to the brake bleeding segment. And essentially what it's going to do is explaining the 3 steps. And manual bleed as we just discussed. Then there's going to be a modulator bleed. And what will happen when you proceed with this, we're not going to do this now because we're not doing a brake bleed, we just want to show you the function. The modulator bleed it's going to have you sit in the vehicle with your foot on the brake pedal. You're going to hit that Ok. And it's going to cycle the ABS valves and you're going to feel the pedal vibrate and modulate. And then when it's done, when it's finished that, then we're going to go to step 3, which is a power bleed. And what it does is activates the ABS pump so that pressurizes the system. And you go around and bleed all 4 corners again just like you did the first time, only now you're getting the assistance from the pump. So that essentially is the brake bleed. And that's going to be on all the Discovery 2's from 1999 to 2004. So if you're looking to do brakes, or you're doing brakes on your vehicle, you need this tool to be able to do the bleed call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you want, just click on this link, you can order it online. And if you like our how to videos, and would like to see more, just go to our YouTube channel and subscribe and you can view all of our different videos. So for that we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Restorers Can Save Time and Money! Our Land Rover Master Technician, Doug, offers an option for replacing a rusty and rotting rear crossmember without replacing the entire frame.
Restorers' Can Save Time and Money! Rear Crossmember Replacement on Range Rovers and Land RoversHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And we want to do a little video to show you a very unique product that we have. A very time and money saving product. Now, in a lot of cases if you are a restorer or if you just want to simply update or upgrade your Land Rover, especially in the case of the Defenders, we have a product that can save you a lot of time and money. In most cases, even though the rest of the frame is good, they like to rot in areas right where the bumper inserts are and in the areas close to the middle, and they will rot right through. Now, this is our Project Defender, which those of you who have been following us on are Facebook page have seen we have put a lot of time and effort into bringing this up to par. One of the issues that we had was just that. The rest of the frame was in beautiful condition, but we had rotted through the rear crossmember. Now normally it's one of two choices. You can either try and cut the rust out and patch in new pieces, in which case you still have to drop the fuel tank and the cradle to be able to access it, to be able to weld safely in it. The other choice, obviously, is the entire frame, which is a huge undertaking. And some of you out there who may have done that already understand how many hours you can put in doing a frame replacement. We offer a third. What we have is a rear crossmember replacement that can be welded in place of the original, after you drop the tank on these. No matter what you have to drop the tank. So either way it is something inevitable and something you're going to have to do. Once the tank is down, you can simply cut at the end of the existing frame rails, and these slip joint, that we welded on the back of the crossmember will slide over the frame, can be welded in place and you end up with results like this. Nice and smooth. As new. Beautiful condition. And you can see, all the bolt holes line up so it's an easy area installation of the rear bumper once you get everything back in. Now you can take a look up underneath and you can see how clean an application this is. The gussets are already in place. We wanted to make you aware of this. Now those of you that have noticed this is not the direct application that I have here for this vehicle. This is strictly for demonstration purposes so you can see what we've done to be able to create this kind of product. So, if you're doing an upgrade or you're restoring an old Defender, not only do we have the rear bumpers, but we have a number of parts that will help you do that, and come Spring you will be in perfect shape to be on the road again. Again, my name is Doug. I appreciate you tuning in. If you need any other information you can talk to any of our knowledgeable salesman. 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, replace the serpentine belt (using Kit # ERR5579 ) on a 1997 Defender 90. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and remove the belt, and then replace and install a new belt. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles.
Part #: ERR5579 Belt Change On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on belt replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. And in this kit you simply will be getting the replacement serpentine belt. Now this particular belt is used on both the 97 Defenders and the Discovery 1 4 liters. Now you'll see a part number ERR5579D and what we are going to do is show you the basics on belt replacement. Now I'm going to show you how easy it is to change the serpentine belt on your D90. This is a 97 with the serpentine, not with the multiple V belts. This is the belt you are going to receive in your kit. Your part number ERR5579D. Set that right there. First step is we're going to take this upper coolant hose; that will just slide up out of the way very nicely. You have 2 bolts that run down through the brackets that support the fan shroud. Normally, 10 millimeter heads on the 2. And the center section of this upper shroud is just held in place with 2 clips. One here - just going to lift up. Release that clip. Down on the other side you have the same style clip. You are going to roll this forward so that it clears so you can lift straight up and out. And this gives you pretty nice access to this. We've got enough clearance in there. Your belt tensioner, which is right here, has a 15 millimeter head on the nut right there and that's what we are going to turn to take the tension of the belt. Now it's a 15 millimeter, I use a long 15 wrench, gear wrench. There are a number of fan wrenches available out there. You just need something fairly long that will give you the leverage you need. You're going to push down which you see releases the tension on the belt. Slip it off of the top of the alternator. As a note, before you take the belt off completely, take a note of the way it is routed. Under the water pump. Under the lower pulley. Over the top of the power steering pump. Top of the alternator. And around the compressor. Once you loosen the belt up the fan is in the way. So you can loop the belt around the fan. Turn the fan until that area of the belt comes around. The fan will actually assist in that, help you out with that. Take this side off the power steering pump. Push it down to give it some slack. Then simply slide your belt out. Now this belt is in pretty good position. We're just doing this as demonstrative so you would essentially just take your belt out. And what I recommend, just a habit I got into all the years is take the 2 belts, end to end, stretch them out. You just want to verify you have the right size belt before you go try and install it and find out it might be off an inch. And this one is a good fit. You can see it is exactly the same as the original that came out. Set that aside. Drop this down so you can actually slip the bottom of the belt right underneath the fan. Which will then put us right around the bottom of the lower pulley which is where we should be. We'll start off there with the installation. Lift up a little bit and set the belt in the grooves. We remembered we went over the top of the power steering pump. We're going to take this piece on the right side and just run it here around the AC compressor, because that's where eventually it is going to go. And we went under the water pump, which means we have to go around the fan again. Fortunately with this upper shroud off you really have some room to work where you can put your hand down inside and push that belt down below the fan blades. It's a tight fit between the water pump and the lower pulley, which means you can feed in from one side and pull out the other. There we go. You want to check and see that we didn't slip off the bottom pulley. And as I say, we can get our hand down in there. Very good. Now make sure the belt is centered. You want to give it a good look because it could feel like it is on but you could be 1 rib over, which means after you put it on you'll have to take it all back apart again and readjust it. Okay, centered on both sides of the lower. Centered on the underside of the water pump pulley. Over the top of the power steering pulley. We're going to be between the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley. Top of the alternator. Now when we go around the AC compressor you can unloop the belt from around the alternator because that's where you're going to end up putting it back on. And you hold up on that section of the belt to retain tension so that you don't slip off down below and have to do that again. We'll double check. We're still centered on the bottom pulley. Look good here. Look good here. Center the belt on the idler pulley. Again you're going to maintain tension, take your long 15 millimeter, push down to relieve the tension on the belt. Slide that on. Check for tension - that looks good. Again always double check and triple check to make sure your ribs are lined up where they should be, that your belt is centered on the pulleys and we look good. Essentially our belt is now on. All we need to do at this point is reinstall the upper shroud cover. Put your clips on. Your 2 bolts. And you have changed your serpentine belt. Now when you put this upper shroud in there's actually sort of a slot that it sits in. You want to make sure it is fully seated. And you will know if it isn't because you'll have a real hard time trying to clamp this clip. If it pops on that easy you know you're in place. Same thing with the lower. You'll feel it pop in. Clamp it. Put your 2 bolts back in to hold on the upper shroud. These are essentially just sheet metal screws that thread into the plastic itself. Put your hose back on. Make sure that when you put the hose back on that you don't create any tight bends, that you have a good looping bend on there so that it doesn't restrict the coolant. And there you are. You have a brand new belt on there. So when you you're ready to change the belt on your D90, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform a Service Interval Reset, a function that must be done on all 2006 and up Range Rovers and Land Rovers after an oil change service. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How To Use The iLAND App Service Interval Reset Demonstrated on 2016 Land Rover LR4. Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going cover some of the special functions that are available on the iLAND. We're going to do this as a series to help you understand how your iLAND works. In this particular case a lot of your later Land Rovers, and I'm going to say from 2006 and up, the majority of them require a tool to be able to access and reset your service interval, after you've done an oil change on that so that your reminder on the dash comes on at the proper time. So I want to show you how to get into that. Right now we're in a 2016 LR4. The function is going to be very similar throughout the entire line, the LR3, LR4, the Sports, the Full Size. Some of the other models like the LR2 whatnot will be a little different. Some of those have their own function built into the dash. But for most of them you're going to need a tool and the iLAND will do just that. So we've got our phone on. Now remember now this is on an iphone. If you have an Android you're going to have just the single iLAND icon. But if you have an iphone, you're going to end up getting 2. This one with the blue dot you are not going to use. You stay with the original icon for just iLAND. No blue dot. So essentially we're going to hit that. We've plugged in our dongle underneath. We see the blue light. We now we're powered up. We're going to turn the ignition on so that the iLAND or the dongle can communicate with the modules. So we're in an LR4. We'll hit that. And of course you have your garage disclaimers. We'll just hit accept and go through on that. So essentially now we've gone on. Now if I back this up, because this is not the screen you're going to end up on. You're going to end up on this screen. And what you go do, you can do a full system test. Just a quick test. And what that will do is run through all the modules that are communicable through the network. And the ones that come up in red are going to have faults. You want to investigate those while you're in there, to take a quick look at it. But for this purpose and for this video we'll go to Power Train Control Module. It's going to hook up and connect. You're going to see your different functions that are available. We'll hit special functions. Now at the top you're going to see service interval reset. For the gas engine and basically US and north american spec vehicles that's what we're going to use. Oil counter reset is strictly for the diesels. And that's going to essentially be overseas, european. So we're going to hit service interval reset. We know you have the ignition on. Make sure all our dash lights are on. Resetting service intervals, press ok to continue. And it's going to communicate with the module. And it's going to reset that back for the specified mileage. So there it is. It's reset. It's complete. Ignition state. We're going to turn it off. It's asking us to turn it off. Now it's asking us to turn it on, and that's basically setting it up and syncing it basically into the power train control module. Turned it on. Now it's going to say clear fault memory. Actually because we have a fault on there we don't want to clear it. We want to go back and be able to look at it. So we're going to hit no at this point. If you had no fault codes then you can hit yes and it will just continue and go about. So again it's asking trouble codes clear reset aborted. That's ok. Set ignition switch to off. And then we're back to our special functions. And then we can have that arrow in the top left. We hit that. And that will put us back on to our choices. This is just taking a little bit longer. There we go. Then we go back to LR4. Hit accept. Make sure ignition is on. So now if you want to go back through it and actually what it did is actually it did clear the code so it had to do with something with the reset. So as I said you can go through your others. And that will be shown in other videos as we go along. So for now we've basically shown had to set up and reset your service interval. And what that is is just simply a reminder it will let you know when your next oil change is due. And sometimes we lose track of that. And it's always good to get a reminder. So when you're ready to order a tool that will help you do the service interval reset and more, you can just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order the tool online. And if you like our how to videos you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and get more information. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he gives you tips and pointers on diagnosing a bad spark plug or ignition coil. This tech tip is demonstrated on an LR3 V8 4.4L. Also Applies to: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2010-2013; Range Rover Sport 2010-2013; Range Rover Full Size 4.4 Jag Engine 2006-2009; Range Rover Full Size 4.2 Supercharged Jag Engine 2006-2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part # LR005253 Spark Plug // Part # 4744015 Ignition Coil Diagnosing Bad Spark Plugs & Coils Demonstrated on: LR3 / Discovery 3 V8 Engine Only 2005 - 2008. Also applies to: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2010-2013; Range Rover Sport 2010-2013; Range Rover Full Size 4.4 Jag Engine 2006-2009; Range Rover Full Size 4.2 Supercharged Jag Engine 2006-2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on how to essentially diagnose whether you have a bad coil or a bad spark plug. And this will be demonstrated on a 4.4 LR3. This will be 2005 to 2009. The same application basically is going to be the same for the Sport, the Supercharged Sport. And the basis of this will also apply to the Full Size Range Rover. Any of the 2006 to 2009, with the 4.2 or the 4.4. Now essentially what happens is the check engine light comes on. You get in. You check the codes. You're getting misfire codes. There are a number of reasons why you can have a misfire code. We're not going to touch on all of that right now, but what we are going to concentrate on, the most common factors usually either a bad coil or a spark plug has failed. And essentially what you're going to need to check it out because we want to keep this as little complicated as possible is one, obviously you're going to need a ratchet, quarter drive with a 16 millimeter socket, that's going to take the top engine cover off. A low voltage test light. This unit is used to not only check for power and grounds at the 12 volt level, but also at the 5 volt level. So that will be versatile. We're going to need that. A pair of pliers. This style I seem to favor for pulling the 2 relays out of the relay box and we'll show you why we're going to do that. And then I like to keep a long straight blade screw driver if I have a problem getting the connector off the coil. You can use this to lift the tab up a bit, and just enough to coil off. And then we have an old school momentary switch which we're going to use to jump the starter relay, crank the engine over. This is if you're working alone and you don't have a helper to be able to turn the key for you. So essential where we're going to start is we've taken the engine cover off. I've removed, popped off the plastic cover that covers the coils and the spark plugs. This is a 2006 LR3 with a 4.4.I would replace that plug. Now here's a good running plug. We have a light tan tint to the porcelain on the bottom. If you see more of an orange tint or possibly green if you're using the green coolant, which shouldn't be in this vehicle. But if you see more orange to it there's a possibility you're getting coolant in there. You can use the spark plug to start of read the situation that's developing in there and why you would have a misfire in that cylinder. So at this point, if you've also pulled the spark plug and you've checked spark, then this is not the cause of your misfire, you need to be looking at either fuel injection or possible compression test, see if you have low compression and there's other things that can be involved with that. But, for testing the coil and the ignition, this would apply to LR3, LR4, Full Size Sport, basically any of these 2006 to 2009 Full Size LR3 and Sport that has the 4.4 and the 4.2 engine. So if you should come across where you find you need an ignition coil or a set of plugs for your vehicle just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch how to install a trailer wiring kit on a Range Rover Sport. This exclusive trailer wiring kit contains all the wiring and connectors needed for the install, including an OE-spec harness, interchangeable Flat-4 and 7-way connector ends and easy-to-follow instructions.
Okay, today we're doing an install of the trailer wiring harness Atlantic British part number YWJ500170ABP to the rear of this 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. To start off with we're gonna have to remove the rear lamp assembly, the interior panel and probably flip down the front, there ,sorry the left rear quarter seat of the back panel of the seat so we can gain access. Once we're removed we're gonna get access to all the right connectors on the inside of the panel. I'm gonna run the harness through behind the bumper, up behind the tail lamp assembly and then into the vehicle and connect up where necessary. Remove the rear lamp - two phillips screws on the inside where the tailgate seal is, top of bottom. This ones easy and loose. Normally they're a bit of a tight fit on the receivers. Sometimes you have to get a plastic trim tool behind the panel here and give it a slight bit of leverage. I'm gonna disconnect that from the main harness. If I can find out where the clip is. Right there. We see the harness coming up here from the back of the vehicle. This is the old harness. We're going to be installing a new updated harness and connector for the rear tail lights and the trailer mount. And it will be installed the opposite way around to the old style. The old-style connector - very similar in design, however the new style that we carry means that we actually have to rotate the connector assembly 180 degrees. So in this kit the connector actually still includes the four pin connector, the standardized one, and the 7-way, which also includes the trailer braking connectors, pins I should say. So now we have the lamp out the next step is to remove the rear, left rear quarter panel, interior panel, but to do that I want to ensure I remove the bottom panel here because as you can see I already started a little bit but it's fouling on the bottom panel and to avoid damage to any of the panel's I like to remove any necessary fixings first. Now I have the two luggage clips removed. A little bit of a tug on the back edge of this panel will remove it from the vehicle. These are a couple of locating dowels, looks like one of the clips has been damaged in the past.We'll be replacing that. One real, one left on it. So I'll move that to one side and that gives us access to removing the rear quarter panel. I already started to loosen it off before and it looks like we can gain enough access into the back to do the work we need to do. So here we have the new unit semi installed. The orientation for the connector, the trailer socket, is like so when it's inside. It can get a bit fiddly trying to install it through the small area you have but it will go. It just takes a little time of up and down, up and down, and working into the back of the vehicle. Once it's in you can screw it in securely. Okay here we have the new 7-way trailer wiring connector installed. Screwed in tight. There's the four pin.There's the 7 pin. As you can see all the four screws are in. The silver stuff on the, around the screws, is anti-seize compound because these do have a bit of a tendency to get tight and corrode especially being out to the elements. All the water and everything flying around. Definitely advise putting anti-seize compound on it. But it's in as you can see. Properly installed into the back of the bumper. The next process is we're gonna route the pigtail harness from the connector, up behind the bumper, up to where the rear tail lamp assembly is. This as you can see hit the pigtail harness is out of the back, of the rear bumper, reinforcement. The harness is sort of located through the top of the bumper area. I can feel it's. Just gone lose there. Ignored the red cable. This is an aftermarket cable put in by the owner of the vehicle. It does go into the car follow the same route as the trailer harness but it's not part of the trailer harness. So it goes over the weights for harmonic noise, over the other side and as you can see up underneath the tailpipe here this is where it came out. And we're gonna route it right up, pretty much following where the headlights, the rear tail light comes out and mounted to behind the vehicle. So as you can see here's the pigtail harness come through behind the bumper, right beneath the lamp assembly. There's another section of wiring that attaches to it, here, by these two connectors. And this is all then routed through this hole into the back of the vehicle. So I've connected the two connectors, the, sorry, the rectangular one and the square one. The two pieces of foam tape that come in the kit actually wrap around there to stop it from rattling against the body of the vehicle, causing any annoyance of noise inside. So now I'm going to route the rest of the cable in through the back of the car, put the grommet in its place in the hole, and then start connecting the three connectors and the ground wire. Here on the outside of the vehicle still, we have the harness that I'm going to connect up, we have the park distance control, we have the three connectors that go in through the hole and the grommet that, go, plugs the hole r right here at the back of the vehicle. Everything's pretty much color coded or size coordinated for the interior. Okay so I've installed the grommet into the rear of the vehicle. As you can see nice and uniformly there. This is the wiring for the park distance control on the back of the vehicle. This is the connector to it from the new harness. Now the new connector for the park distance will come with a blanking plug in the end of it. You can see the little red rubber grommets inside there that blank off any water getting in. This does have to be removed from the harness that you'll be receiving. You slide the little slide, a little bit stiff, slide the slide back you can press on the little latch there and pull and it will come right off at the main connector. Then the connector goes back in to the main harness there. Clicks into place. You may have a little bit of residual extra harness. It will soon, it will wrap up and form nicely in the back behind the lamp unit that we're going to install.So here's the harness from the back of the vehicle. The exterior of the vehicle, routed through into the back left corner. As you can see we've got all the three connectors. They're all different size and color-coded and they attach to the main harness in the vehicle here.The ground is then routed and it will go on this round unit here. It can actually attach to any of the three as long as it finds a good ground point. So I'm going to start by putting some of these connectors together. We've got a small gray one. Two. Wiggle it around. Three. Just push them into the location points. It's a nice good clean ground point. 10 millimeter nut. Pinched up nice and tight and firmly. And that's the electricals done on the inside of the vehicle. All we have left to do really, is really put the left rear corner trim back into place, the base trim I took out and the lamp unit in the left rear corner. Straightforward enough. Back and firmly in place. I'll start on the rear trim. Right, so, the kit is all pretty much finished and installed. Just a quick test connecting it to a trailer with preferably trailer brakes, which is I'm sure why anybody be wanting to purchase it. Because it's got the extra connector on it which is a fabulous idea. After a test everything should be finished and done. The trailer wiring kit again the part number for the Range Rover Sport model YWJ500170ABP. It's Atlantic British's own. They, it comes with full fitting instructions as you can see here. Very good colorful pictures. Very easy to understand and figure out how it goes together. Now you can contact our salesman at any point in time. The direct numbers 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Jim as he replaces the tailgate struts on a Range Rover Sport. While the double opening tailgate is unique to the Range Rover Sport, the process for changing out the tailgate struts is similar from Land Rover to Land Rover.
Replacing the Tailgate Struts On The Range Rover SportHi, it's Jim. I take care of the technical support here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to look at the struts the tailgate of a Range Rover Sport. The Sport is unique on its own on how the rear hatch works. We're going to start out with replacing the struts on the glass section. It's pretty quite simple. You just got to take care of some safety features while you are doing this. Open up the hatch. Get some kind of a prop rod to hold this up, because when you take this off it's going to want to fall down. On each strut there's a little metal clip right here. When I get this off I can show you a bit closer. Right here you can see both clips are raised up. Just need a simple screw driver. Get your new strut which you can purchase here at Atlantic British. We carry a full line of tailgate struts for the full line of Land Rovers. When you get your new one, the clips will be down like this. And literally you're just going to snap it into place. Like that and like that. Take your hood prop out. Repeat on the other side, using the prop again. We're going to close this up. Next thing we're going to go to the big one. The unique thing about the Sport is this whole thing opens up. Like that. It's the same procedure but you're going to need a pretty strong bar to hold this up. I got a piece - I think this is a track rod actually out of a P38 Range Rover. It's the same idea. Get the clip out of there and push it over to the side. Make sure you're holding this up until you get the rod underneath there. Then it's the same deal. I'll show you the clips once I get it off here. Again you can see it's the same arrangement. Clip here. Clip here. The thing you have to remember is get something underneath that because this is a pretty heavy, heavy door. On most of all Range Rovers the technique is the same. Same little clips. Get something to hold it up. I'm going to put this back in so I don't bump into this. You have to lift this up. This will probably fall. You just snap this back into place, and you're pretty much done. You can buy your struts here at Atlantic British. Either give us a call, 1-800-533-2210 or check us out on RoveParts.com. Contact our sales staff, they're very knowledgeable on all the strut lines we carry.
Here is the step-by-step process in the removal and installation of the transmission filter conversion kit on a 2005-2009 LR3. Using kit # ATFCK , this is an easy change filter conversion kit for all Rovers using ZF 6HP Automatic Transmission. This includes the LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover L322 models. Installing the original factory filter change kit is a very lengthy process. The original sump and filter are normally one piece and fitting involves jacking the engine up and unbolting the mounts, plus, the removal of the exhaust. This new kit has a two-part filter and pan design, which makes installation much easier. Doug will also address replacement of the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve part number TZV500010G which has a tendency to leak. It is recommended that this sleeve be replaced while you have the pan down. This service is recommended to be performed every 50,000 to 70,000 miles to ensure optimum performance.
Kit #: ATFCK Install the Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion Kit on LR3, 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a new and innovative product, definitely a labor saving item. This is a transmission kit for the Sports and the LR3s with the 4.4 V8. And what they've done is they've gotten away from the 1 piece pan and filter set up which up to this point, when you went to change over the filter in your transmission you had to remove one of the catalytic converters, the crossmember. You had to support the transfer case. And in some cases we had to take one bolt out of the right side motor mount and we had to jack the engine up to get that out of there. So because of input from alot of Land Rover owners, what they've done is come up with a kit so we have a separate filter and pan so that we can actually install this without taking all this extra out of the vehicle. And what it essentially does is, and those of you who aren't familiar with the original design you have a plastic pan similar to this with a filter in it. The filter is part of the pan with this stem. This stem is what the killer is because you have a cross member. It's only about an inch underneath this pan. So to get these out, you've got to be able to jack the whole drive line up at one point to clear this piece out of here. But now you can just drop the original pan. Cut the old tube off with a hacksaw. Pull that out once we get the pan out of the way. You take the new filter. You pop the filter up in place. And then the pan slides in. And with the kit you get the new filter. The new O ring. New set of bolts. And a metal pan instead of plastic. It's overall going to be a better situation. It also makes it alot easier for do it yourselfers, as opposed to having to bring it to a shop because of all the extra assembly and disassembly. This has been a long time coming. This is a great product. What I'm going to do then is we're going to show you initially how to install it and how we're going to drain it and how we're going to change this over without having to take all that extra pieces out of the vehicle.There we are. So we've reached the point where we've filled this up. We've got 1 drip per second. We capped, put the plug back in. Be very careful because that catalytic converter is going to be very hot. You may want to invest in a set of what they call, actually they are available, kevlar gloves. Just something to keep you from burning your hand on that catalytic converter. Tighten the plug down. Next step is obviously let it run. Let it sit for a minute. You want to check for any leaks around the gasket. Once you're confident that you have no leaks then basically we're done. So at this point now we're going to let it cool down just a little bit. And then we can reinstall the bracket. That supports the heat shield. Put the heat shield back on. And reinstall the front dash plates. So all that we did in the beginning you're just going to reinstall just the way you took it off. Very easy. So, when you're ready to do the transmission service on your LR3 or your Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, or you can click on this link or if you wish to subscribe to our YouTube channel you can click on this link and that will take you to that. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
A common problem on 2006 - 2009 Range Rover Sport (Supercharged and non-Supercharged) and some of the LR3s, is that you may hear a light rattle in the front end as you ride straight over small bumps in the road at lower speed. Using a 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged with Directional Stability Control (DSC) to demonstrate, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, diagnose the cause of the rattling noise in front end as possibly being one of two causes, worn rubber bushings in the sway bar , or old sway bar link . Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Front End Rattling? How To Diagnose A Bad Sway Bar Bushing or Bad Sway Bar Link, Demonstrated on 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged with DSC (Directional Stability Control)Hi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a something that seems to show up quite often on the 2006 and later Sports. 2006 to 2009, some of the LR3s. This is a Supercharged 2007 Sport. And this has DSC, which is the directional stability control or hydraulic sway bars in it. And what happens is a lot of people call me and they'll ask about the situation where they're going down the road and on light bumps, in a straight ahead motion. You hear a little rattle come from the front end. Not so much when turning. Not so much at higher speed. And what happens is over a period of time, what you have are 2 rubber bushings that support that sway bar, and hold it against the frame. Well, the rubber dries out. Especially in areas where we're subject to a lot of salt in the wintertime. It all takes effect. So, a good way to find out if that is the cause of the issue. You have 2 things that could possibly cause it. You have a sway bar link here. Which you can place a bar underneath this control arm and lift on the sway bar right here. And if you see lose motion either on this lower joint or the upper joint, then that's telling you that the link is worn out and it's time to replace. The other, which is really the more common, is the bushings that support this sway bar and hold it to the frame. These are supposed to be a good, tight fit. So what happens is if you're able to grab the bar and move it in and out, like so, and you can actually hear that bushing squawk a little bit as I'm pulling it. That's telling you that those bushings have compressed, and they're no good. And they're no longer able to hold that sway bar tight. So when you hear that little rattle, this gives you an idea of where to look and then once you've decided whether it's a bushing or the sway bar link, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
If the parking aid button on the dashboard of your Range Rover Sport is flashing an orange warning light, you most likely have a faulty parking aid sensor. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains diagnosing and replacing faulty parking aid sensor demonstrated on 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged using the Hawkeye Diagnostic Scan Tool. This replacement service is also similar on the Range Rover Sport and Full Size, 2006 - 2009, along with the LR3, 2005 - 2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Diagnosing and Replacing Faulty Parking Aid Sensor Demonstrated on 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged Using Hawkeye Diagnostic Scan ToolHi I'm Doug your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to discuss a parking aid. Now a parking aid are those little beepers that go off when you either come up to close with the front of the back of your vehicle to another object and they go off, but over time they develop some faults. Now, they can either develop faults on their own, or sometimes you can have a sensor go out because somebody in the last parking lot you were in bumped into your bumper and took the sensor out. So what we're going to do we're going to use the Hawkeye Diagnostic Tool to show you basically how to get into the system and how to determine where you need to go to get it fixed. Now what you'll find is that when you have a fault with the system, when you start the car. When you put it in reverse when the system is operating properly you should get a single beep out of the system and then your parking light will come on and stay on. If it does this, we're going to put it in reverse, and you'll see that light flashing on that button on the dash. Now this is on a 2006 Sport. The location will generally be about the same on an LR3 and a Full Size, but the result will be the same. You'll get a flashing light for the parking aid. You can always just turn the system off if the light's annoying. So, what we're going to do, is using the Hawkeye Diagnostic Tool we're going to plug in and we're going to find out which sensor is giving us a problem.Hit check. And it's been cleared. So it's telling me right now it's not seeing a fault. So just to verify, start it up. Give it a minute to idle down. Put it in reverse. Our light is on steady and we got the single beep acknowledging that the system is on so we're up and running. So we've fixed our parking aid sensors. So, if that little button is beeping at you and you know you have a fault either in the front or the rear, we've shown you how to access the system and diagnose the problem and how to fix it. So when you're ready to fix the parking aid sensors on any of your LR3, the Sport, the Full Size, the applications all the same, give a call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Learn how you can install a trailer wiring kit on your Range Rover HSE, 2010 - 2012. With an exclusive trailer wiring kit that is specially-developed for Range Rover vehicles, getting more out of your Range Rover has never been easier. These kits seamlessly connect Rover wiring harness and supply to your vehicle. Click here for complete product installation instructions, with color photos.
Installation Process VPLMT0008ABP Trailer Wiring Kit For Range Rover HSE (L322) 2010 - OnLocate the wiring access opening underneath and behind the rear bumper and remove the rubber grommet. Locate the Bracket Mounting location. Mount the bracket to the vehicle using the M8 x 1.25 mm by 20mm long bolts. Feed the harness connector through the opening created by removing the grommet in step #1. Pull it through to the inside of the trunk well. Secure the harness grommet in the opening. Using the M5 x 0.8 mm Phillips head machine screws secure the Trailer Connector to the bracket. Your Trailer Connector should look like this. Locate the vehicles trailer connector inside the well in the trunk. Plug the harness connector into the vehicles connector. Using a diagnostic computer, set the vehicle to "Trailer Capable".
A brief overview of the Air-to-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits available for many Range Rover models. If this is something you have been thinking of installing on your Rover, watch this video to learn how to get started. Includes information on part 9520LBHDWB .
Air-To-Coil Suspension Conversion Kits For Range Rover VehiclesHi. I'm Chip French. I'm a salesman here at Atlantic British. And if you own a Range Rover you know the expense of maintaining your air suspension system. We've come up with a couple different coil spring conversions for all Range Rovers from 1993 up to the 2006 model. This one here is for the P38, for the vehicle that was built from 1995 to 2002. We use custom made springs, where other companies may use a spring from a different vehicle to fit the Rover, ours are custom bent. We also have machined perches where the springs go on, where other companies use a stamp steel product. We add new bump stops and also the override harness, which will bypass the error messages on your computer. It is very simple to plug in, instead of having to rewire the ECM, which could be expensive if not done correctly. We also have these available in a heavy duty set-up for some vehicles. Check us out on the website or just give us a call.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six (Extra 1) Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 1) of our video how-to series, as he installs the Baja Rack Jerry Can Holder on our project D2. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 1):Installing Jerry Can Holder To Baja Rack (BAJAFCH)Hi I'm Doug, you're tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. Now if you have been following the project, we've done a video showing the cargo rack for the Baja Rack for the top of the D2. And we mentioned that we were also going to be adding some accessories to it. One of the first accessories we're going to do - and this is a very popular item - is the Jerry Can holder. Now this unit can be mounted on either an open grid top like this one or it will even work on a mesh top cargo carrier or you can even use them on any of those mesh based add ons that will hook up to your trailer hitch. You've seen them mounted on the back of vehicles, it just simply looks like a tray. But this will mount on those as well. And it's a very easy installation, there's just several nuts and bolts. And what you have is a base bracket that can be mounted right on top. They give you the 2 clamps that will grab underneath and grab the side rail along with 4 additional clamps that grab underneath the cross rails. And they do a nice job because they also put foam inserts on all the brackets so they're not going to scratch up the metal on your cargo rack. You get all your hardware and they even give you a tube of grease so that you grease up the bolts when you put it together because this is exposed to the elements if you ever want to change its position or move it, with the grease bolts it's going to come out a lot easier. So it's nice that they put that thought into it. So this is a relatively easy installation. We have this on the ground so we can show you basically the location. Something you want to consider is that when you put a cargo rack on top you're obviously going to have a ladder in the back on the vehicle. So you don't want to put this where it's going to be blocking your access to the ladder. So in this case, the Discovery 2, the ladder is going to be coming up in the rear left corner, so we're going to mount this bracket over here so it's out of the way and you still have full access to the rack. So we're going to bolt this down and we're going to show you what it looks like completed. All right, so now we have the bracket mounted up. What I did is I'm going to show you on the bottom how the brackets looks. You have 4 cross braces underneath and along with the 2 clips that bolt on that grab around the side rail. So between the 4 mounts and the 2 add ons that grab the rail, that bracket's not going anywhere. That's a good solid hook up. So now we're going to set this down. And we're going to show you how to mount the jerry cans. All right, so here's the top view of bracket and how it's going to lay on top of the cargo carrier. And then we're going to take our first jerry can and set that in just like so. We'll clip this on. That will hold that in place. And then the second can. And we recommend when you put the cans in, obviously your open area, your opening is going to be up and not down. Lay our top brace on. And then we just thread in that large screw. You don't have to crush it. Just get it snug so that there's no free play or moving around. We'll set that in place. And then there's a safety precaution. They also give you a large washer and we put in a clip to make sure that can't back off all the way. So there you are. Your jerry cans are in place. Nice and secure. Not going anywhere. And it definitely adds to the look of the cargo. So when you're ready to add you jerry can adapter to your Baja Rack, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
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