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coolant videos
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit coolant hoses and thermostat for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # COOLKIT110SKA , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit coolant hoses and thermostat for a Discovery I 1998. Using our Coolant Hose and Thermostat Kit # 9370SKF , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 2006-2009 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # COOLKIT102 , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. This service is also valid on the Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 2005-2009 LR3 V8 4.4L. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # COOLKIT100 , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. This service is also valid on the Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009.
Kit #:COOLKIT100 Overview of Replacing Coolant Hoses on LR3 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Or Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British, and what I'd like to do is introduce our coolant hose kit for the LR3. This is the 4.4 V8. This is all part of our repair and maintenance academy. Here at Atlantic British we recommend that you change the hoses over on your Land Rover every 105,000 miles. Reason being is they are all rubber based and over a period of time not only do they dry up externally, but internally due to the flow of coolant can actually wear them out and take material away. So over 105,000 miles they can wear down to a point where they become very soft, they can fatigue and they can even burst. So to prevent a breakdown on the road we usually recommend, we definitely recommend you change these every 105,000 miles. Now with the kit. And if you go online you can actually access, download and print the same copy, and this is all of our maintenance recommendations. And you will find the coolant hose and thermostat kit, which includes 6 hoses, the thermostat and the O ring, and it's under the title or the part number COOLKIT100. You can find this right in our website. And essentially what you are going to get is your upper and lower radiator hose. Upper vent hose. Heater hoses. And cross tubes. You'll also get the thermostat. Which essentially has to be assembled in the housing, which we'll show you how to do that. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you the location of all these hoses. How they attach to the engine. And how to assemble the thermostat in the housing.Once the thermostat opens, you shut it down, let the vehicle cool down. You're going to see that level all of a sudden just disappear. You're going to top that back off. And you're probably going to want to do that 1 more time. You're going to let this thing fully warm up. Shut it down. Let it cool down. And then recheck the level 1 more time. It's a complicated system obviously so there are a lot of areas where air can hide. You want to make sure you have all the air bled out of the system before you take it out on any long trips. So again, when you're ready to change the hoses and the coolant over on your LR3, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210, and thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series 2. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # 9370D2SKA , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles.
Kit # 9370D2SKA Installing the Coolant Hoses & Thermostat on Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base and introduce our hose and thermostat kit for the Discovery 2, 1999 to 2004. This is with the 4 liter GEMS engine. And with your kit you are going to get your upper and lower radiator hoses, your 2 vent hoses, your cooler hose to your thermostat heater - both your long and short hose, your 2 heater hoses and lower radiator hose and external thermostat. Now this is a service that is recommended every 90,000 miles right be Land Rover. Over a period of time these hoses wear inside and dry out and get hard and brittle on the outside. So to prevent a problem further down the line, it's usually recommended at least before 100,000 miles you should change all these hoses over. Now the hoses even come with the bleeders in them, just as the original equipment. This way when you're done you can bleed the air out of the system. And this is going to be part of our service, maintenance and repair kit. You'll find this kit listed on our maintenance sheets that we now have on our website. You can download and print these sheets. This particular kit is Kit H, Coolant Hose and Thermostat and the part number is 9370D2SKA. And that will give you everything you see displayed here. Now in a minute we'll give you a rundown and show you how to install your kit. And in the process, you'll also being adding new coolant to the system which is also good to do on a regular basis. So again, when you're ready to change the hoses over on your Disco 2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he presents an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1995-1998 Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38) with GEMS engine. Using coolant hose and thermostat kit # 9369SKA , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: 9369SKA Installing the Coolant Hose & Thermostat Kit on Range Rover 4.0 or 4.6 (P38), 1995-1998, 8-Cylinder GEMS Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we're going to discuss the coolant and thermostat replacement kit as part of the repair and maintenance academy program for your 1996 to 1999 P38 Full Size Range Rover with the GEMS engine. Now if you are not sure if you have a GEMS engine or not, you can refer back to one of our other videos that actually tells you how to identify either the GEMS or the BOSCH design engine. So in this case we have a complete set of hoses: upper and lower radiator hoses; heater hoses; bypass hoses; refill hoses; that is a service that gets neglected on a lot of vehicles with higher mileage and in many cases can leave you stranded on the road should any of them decide to let go. Land Rover recommends on their schedule maintenance sheet every 90,000 miles. No you see you have somewhat an array of hoses. Even if you replace one, you have to drain the system, this is a good time to do them all. At 90,000 miles you plan on keeping the car for a while, you really don't want to just leave a couple of worn hoses on there that could leave you stranded further down the line. You have the vent hoses, the fill hoses, heater hoses, bypass hoses, the hoses that fill the throttle body heater. Basically every thing that you need including the thermostat. which this is actually a weak point in the system. These go. You want to replace these on a regular basis. These are, in the industry, referred to as the artificial heart as you can see by design. What we're going to do is show you the location of these hoses and how you would replace them, along with the thermostats and how to bleed the system when you're done. So now we're going to be replacing our hoses and thermostat. Now on this particular vehicle, on the P38, your thermostat is external and attached to the radiator support on the passenger side of the vehicle. Some people in the industry refer to it as the Jarvik heart, or the artificial heart, because it's sort of what it looks like. But it is an external thermostat and is mounted to 3 different hoses and your lower radiator hose. Now there's 2 different ways to drain this system, which you're going to need to do. One, you've all ready taken the cap off at the reservoir up top, and that's going to allow the system to drain completely. And there is both a drain plug in the dead center of the radiator on the bottom. And you also have a petcock further up. I usually recommend changing or removing this for the reason it does a complete drain and it is much easier to get at. To remove it you're going to need a 12 allen socket. We're going to take a pail. The system is going to hold about 3 and a half gallons of coolant. So you're going to need at least a 5 gallon pail to put under there. You like to leave yourself a little extra. We have a 12 millimeter allen drive socket and half inch drive which is going to give you some more leverage. And you're ratchet. Now, when you first break this loose you're going to get some outward spray. So be careful. We're going to step back out of the way. As you can see it drains pretty fast. So our system is drained out and you can bet that radiator is completely empty now which is why I like that bottom plug. Now before we take any of these clamps off, the majority of the clamps are a squeeze type clamp which there are several tools you can use to remove them. This bottom type is a worm type, probably has been replaced before. We're going to give that a little shot of penetrating oil and let that sit for a minute before we take that off. Now the thermostat is essentially just held on by the hoses. And then lays on 2 rests that are built into the lower shroud on this. This is usually a good place to start, by removing your clamps, top and bottom, to remove your thermostat. And then from there we'll drop the vehicle and we'll show you the hose location up top. Replacement of the thermostat and that one lower hose is going to cover you as far as lower hose and access from underneath. Now up top, relatively simple, you just have your upper radiator hose which is just a 2 point connection at either end. We'll take that off, which is just loosen the clamp, break it loose, remove the hose, install your new one. Your heater hoses - you have one here that runs from your feed on your heater core. Again just a squeeze clamp, slide it off. You may find these are going to be on somewhat tight. You can always take a razor blade or sharp instrument and actually slice it because you're not going to use it anyway. Slice the hose, break it loose that way. And then the other end attaches to the front of your lower intake manifold. This hose, which is essentially your feed and your heater hose, runs off the lower reservoir, out of the heater core to this T. And then from here down into the thermostat. Now there's some of these vehicles that you may find that when you take your hoses off, it's a good idea to check this metal down tube right here. This sometimes can fill with rust, over a period of time, because they do deteriorate internally and cause a restriction here, which can actually create a back-up of fluid into the reservoir. So if it seems like you're getting excessive pressure in the reservoir tank, or fluid is filling up very high, it may be in that hose. So it's a good idea. You have all the hoses off. The system is drained. It would be a good idea. You have 1 bolt right here. And another up front. You can remove this and check the hoses and see if it is restrictive. Again this is all a matter of remove the clamps, take the old hose off, install the new one. It's probably a good idea, if you're not really familiar with the system, and I do this with vehicles when I'm taking them apart for the first time, with the access of smart cameras, take a picture before you take it apart, and then when you go to put it back together, you're not quite sure how something is laid out, you can always refer back to your pictures. So that's basically it. When you're done you're going to simply fill the system. There is no bleeder on this system at all. Eventually what it's going to do - this is your bleed, this vent line - and this feeds all the way back to the top. And it's a good idea on these 4.0 4.6, fill it up, let it get nice and warm. Shut it down, let it get completely cold, and you're going to find your level is going to drop considerably. At that point you top it off again. A good way to make sure your heater core is not air bound is after the second fill up, bring your vehicle up to temperature, turn your heat on. Make sure you're getting good heat out of the vents. If you're getting good heat you are good to go, the system is bled. So that's all there is to it. When you're ready to change over the hoses and thermostat on your P38 you can give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates an overview of the replacement of the custom-fit hoses and thermostat for a 1997 Defender 90. Using our Coolant Hose and Thermostat Kit , which includes all the hoses needed plus a new thermostat, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles.
Kit #: 9373SKB Replacing Coolant Hose & Thermostat On Defender 90, 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in the video we're going to touch base on the coolant system service for your 1997 Defender 90 as part of your maintenance and service program. Now I want to show you the kit first. And the kit will include your upper and lower radiator hose. Your heater hoses. Your short stub hose off the front of the engine. Your bleeder screw for your one hose to bleed the system out when you're done. New O ring. Thermostat and thermostat gasket. Now the coolant doesn't come with this. We generally don't supply coolant. It's hard to ship so you can get that through your local supplier, any automotive center will have the proper coolant for this. You do want to use the orange oats technology coolant in this vehicle. It's what's recommended for use by Land Rover. Do not use the green ethyl glycol. Now what we're going to do is give you the basics and show you the locations of these hoses, and some tech tips on how to install. So, essentially what will do now is at this point is we're going to top it off with coolant, we're going to let it bleed down, we're going to start the vehicle. And we can start it without the fan. Just going to run it for about a minute. All we want to do is essentially run it for a minute, shut it down, check for any leaks because now is the time to do it, while you have easy access to your connections. If everything looks good, put your fan, your belt and your shroud back in place, which is just the opposite of your removal and you're ready to go on down the road. So, when you're ready to change over the hoses on your Defender, Discovery or any other Land Rover, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and thanks for watching.
Watch our Land Rover Technician, Doug, give an in-depth and step-by-step demonstration of the replacement of the coolant hoses and thermostat on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003-2005. The proper hose kit includes all the coolant hoses and thermostat necessary for a full service replacement. This procedure is recommended every 90,000 miles.
Kit #: 9370LSKA Replacing Coolant Hoses & Thermostat On Range Rover Full Size 2003 - 2005, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch on the cooling hose kit for the 2003 to 2005 Range Rover Full Size, the HSE. And what we're going to do is actually show you how to install this kit. Now what comes with the kit is essentially every cooling hose under the hood. Your heater hoses. Upper and lower radiator hoses. Bypass and vent hoses. We also include the thermostat, which is a known unit for these to create problems, so it's good to put a new thermostat in while you have the system broken down. It includes the O rings to seal the unit. And factory plug. And the kit number which is part of our maintenance and service program is 9370LSKA. Includes all these hoses, thermostat and basically everything you need to replace the hoses under the hood. Okay, so if you have access to one it is always best when you're done doing anything in the cooling system. You've put some anti freeze in it and you're now going to do a pressure test. And essentially what you're going to do by pumping it up you're going to apply a fair amount of pressure to this system. And then give it a little bit of time so if there is a leak, or if there is a slow leak, it will show up. And you're simply just going to go around and check all the points where you've put a connection on and see if there is any wetness. Upper and lower hose. Bypass hoses. Back to your heater hoses. Your 2 connections at the back of the engine. Your connections upfront by the access auxiliary pump and to the control valves. And it looks like we're all nice and dry at all out points. And actually it's usually best some times to leave this for about half an hour. Walk away from it. Come back. See if your pressure reading has dropped. If it's right about where you had it at, where you left it, you're good to go. Now it's just a matter of take this back off. We'll top the system off. Put it back together and do a road test just to make sure everything is on good and tight. Okay so now we've tested our system, we've buttoned it up. We're going to put the covers and the plenum chamber back in which we showed you how to take that out in the beginning. Very simple installation. And that pretty much wraps up the installation of the hose kit. Now again the part number of this hose kit is 9370LSKA. We'll give you all the hoses that you need. You follow these directions you should have no problem installing them. To order this kit you can call our number at 1-800-533-2210 and any our knowledgeable salesmen will be happy to help you out.
A common problem on LR3 or Range Rover Sport (Supercharged and non-Supercharged), you may get a warning on the instrument cluster that states "Low Coolant Level," which will prompt you to check the coolant bottle only to see there is plenty of coolant. What has happened is that the small float in the bottom of the tank becomes saturated and loses it's "float-ability" so that it sits at the tank's bottom to register as a Low Level warning. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the expansion tank part # LR020367G. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part #: LR020367G Replacing the Coolant Expansion Tank, Performed on Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Also valid for LR3, LR4 and Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a very common problem that shows up on the LR3s and the Sports, both the Supercharged and the non Supercharged. Essentially what happens is you're going to get a little warning on your instrument cluster. It's going to say low coolant level. And you're going to go out, you're going to look at the bottle and you're going to have plenty of coolant. You don't understand why it's giving you that message. In many cases it's not so much the sensor on the bottom but there is a small float that runs at the bottom of those tanks that over a period of time become saturated, and they just simply drop to the bottom of the tank. So it will always register as if that tank is empty. So you'll always get that message. The only cure is really to replace the overflow bottle. So, what we're going to do is show you the part which you're going to need to replace and how to install it. So let's start with the tank. Now this is a little bit revised. This is the original equipment. But they've made some minor changes since the original, so just something you want to note as far as like the bleeder screw being at an angle as opposed to straight up. The tank being a little thinner in this area than it is on the original. But you'll see all your mounting and all your house connections are all in the same place. So it is the same tank. Now the part number on this, if you want to look it up on our website is LR020367G. So, what we're going to do is show you how to install this without making a big mess. And that you don't have to drain your entire coolant system to put it in.Now we got that done. We reach down, spread the handles on our other tool. So now both hoses are on and clamped. Put our power steering reservoir back on. And our washer fluid fill tube. Okay. So now at this point we're going to fill the bottle. We're going to back this bleeder off about 2 turns. Go have a cup of coffee. Enjoy. Take about 10, 15 minutes. Let the system bleed and fill back up. You'll even notice as soon as you release the bottom hose you're actually already starting to fill from the bottom. So, it probably won't take much more than a quart, maybe a quart and a half of fluid to top this off. And no longer have to watch that warning on your dashboard. So, when you're ready to turn off that low coolant reservoir light, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug give the simplest explanation of what anti-freeze/coolant goes in your particular type of Land Rover vehicle. There is a difference you should be aware of!
What Anti-Freeze (Coolant) To Use In Your Type of Land Rover or Range Rover. Hi my name is Doug and I'm the tech support representative for Atlantic British, your Land Rover parts supplier. I wanted to touch base on this video about anti-freeze. I get a lot of questions about what anti-freeze I should use in my Land Rover. And even though we don't sell the anti-freeze, we at least want you to know what you should be using in your Land Rover. Now up until the early 90s pretty much everything used ethylene glycol, the old green coolant but just the environment and everything else, everybody thought they should be going more green, so Land Rover in the early 90s, starting with the Defender and the Disco 1 and the P38 Range Rover, they went to XLC, which is an orange colored anti-freeze, comes in a bottle looks like so. Now this is OAT technology, which is organic advanced technology, which is much more green than the old ethylene glycol. It's not poisonous to animals, and it pretty much should be used in all your Land Rovers from the early 90s all the way up to the present. Now the only exception is going to be for the 03 to 05 Range Rovers. Now those had the BMW engines and called for a low phosphate anti-freeze, blue in color, and primarily used in just about all the BMW engine vehicles. This is going to come in a bottle that looks like so. It's labeled G48. And this would be the proper anti-freeze to use in your 03 to 05 full size Range Rover. Now both of these would come bottled in a concentrated form, so you want to mix them 50 50 with water. Try to use distilled water if you can. If you have a dehumidifier or way of getting distilled water you should go that route. Pretty much that's it, that's all you're going to use. Again, for a wide range of your Land Rovers, all the way up to the present from the early 90s you're going to use the orange XLC. Try to stick with this, this is the right formula for the materials your Land Rover is made out of. That's pretty much it. That will cover anti-freeze. Now one thing I want to mention that is very important - if your Land Rover is equipped with the XL C or if you have an older Land Rover with the green ethylene glycol in it, do not mix the two together. What will happen is they are not compatible fluids, and they will create a gel which can end up plugging up your radiator, your heater core, and end up into an extensive repair. Or could cause some engine damage, so you do not want to mix the two. Now again I mentioned earlier, we don't sell the anti-freeze, but we did want you to know how important it is to use the proper anti-freeze. Should you need us for any other parts for your Land Rover, please call us at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks again for viewing this.
With 4.0 / 4.6 Bosch engines in older Rover models like the 4.0 / 4.6 Range Rover or Discovery Series II, the coolant regulated heater plate at the bottom of the throttle body are notorious for leaking. This video shows you how to fix this leak. Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, removes and replaces the throttle body heater plate on a 2002 Discovery Series II. We use the throttle body heater plate kit # MGM000010K in this service. This video also covers removing the throttle body and replacing throttle body gasket (ERR6623). Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, discusses what happens when the thermostat breaks on your Land Rover LR3, 2005 - 2009. To repair and resolve, watch Doug present 3 options for replacement - the Thermostat-only , the Thermostat Assembly With Housing , and Coolant Hose & Thermostat Kit for people needing to replace hoses as well. Doug then demonstrates the assembly and replacement of the thermostat. The repair is also valid for the 2006 - 2009 Range Rover Sport (Non-Supercharged). You may view the How-To-Repair video for the full Coolant Hose and Thermostat Kit here . Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
3 Options For Replacing the Thermostat On LR3 2005 - 2009, Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. This video we're going to discuss and actually show you how to install a thermostat in a 4.4 LR3 or Sport, non Supercharged Sport, from 2006 to 2009. Now what happens is now is they're getting older, we're finding that some vehicles, and people talk about they don't get enough heat in the car, which is usually a sluggish thermostat. Or actually the vehicle will throw a fault code, like a P0128. It's saying it's not reaching its parameters or it's not reaching its full temperature. And that usually is also an indication the thermostat. What we also want to do is show you some options that you have, being more than likely the vehicle is going to be in like the 100,000 mile mark or more. So there are other things that you want to check while you have the system open to take care of, so you don't have to do it twice down the line. One of them obviously is going to be just the thermostat, which you can get. And you'll notice that this comes in 4 distinct pieces, that it's sort of like a build you own. And we're going to show you how to do that. It's part of the installation on it. And then plus your O ring for your outer housing. Now, the thing you might want to consider is if you're going to take the thermostat out, and some people prefer to go the whole route, this is the housing that the thermostat sits in. This runs across the front of the engine. You have 4 bolts here holding the upper section down. These 2 attach to the front of the intake manifold. And of course here is your actual housing for the thermostat. Now what happens is these have a tendency, as they get older, to crack, they split. It's a known issue. It shows up quite a bit on these. So you may want to take care of this, instead of just the thermostat. That will take care of 2 issues. Along with you also get a temperature sensor with it. Next step up would be if you have over 100,000 miles on the vehicle you want to take a good look at the hoses. Now this is the kit that you would us on the LR3. This way we'll run that clamp up without the upper hose being in the way. So this is the last of the 3. We put all 3 hoses on. We've got our clamps in place. Make sure the clamp is sitting where it was previous to disassembly. And you'll see the marks on the hoses. And then don't forget to pull over your little hoses that you stretched out of the way earlier. This way everything is where it's supposed to be. Clamps are on tight. So what we're going to do is we'll start it up. We'll let it run for a minute. And what that will do is bleed the air through. And then we'll let it sit. Top off the coolant level in the tank. And essentially you're done. We'll put the cover back on. And you're done. So, when you're ready to, or when you have to, replace the thermostat on your LR3 or your Sport with a 4.4, this would be 2006 to 2009, just call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
The valve cover gaskets in the 4.0 / 4.6 / 3.9 / 4.2 Bosch engine in older Rover models like the 4.0 / 4.6 Range Rover, Discovery Series II, Range Rover Classic are notorious for leaking. Here is how to service them. In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, performs the valve cover gasket replacement on 2002 Discovery Series II (not equipped with secondary air). Using valve cover gaskets Part # LVC100260 (you will need two gaskets in this service). This video also covers removing the throttle body and replacing throttle body gasket (ERR6623) without disconnecting the coolant lines, removing and replacing the upper intake manifold gasket (ERR6621), and removing and replacing the oil separator (LLJ000010) as you have the passenger-side valve cover gasket off. Doug will also discuss vehicles equipped with secondary air. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
For BOSCH Engines Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (Part # LVC100260) Performed on 2002 Discovery Series IIAlso discussed in this video is the removal and replacement of the throttle body gasket, upper intake manifold gasket and the oil separator performed on 2002 Discovery Series II (with footnotes on vehicles equipped with secondary air)Hi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you how to do a regular maintenance item, or what we consider regular maintenance for the 4.0, 4.6 Discovery 2, Range Rover, the Classic, any of the older Land Rovers with the 4.0, 4.6, even the 3.9 and 4.2. What happens is the valve cover gaskets. They're notorious for leaking. You can put brand new ones in there and next thing, 8 months to a year later they're leaking again. So you might as well consider them regular maintenance. What we're going to do, is we're going to touch base in this video, we're going to use a 2002 Discovery 2. A very common vehicle. You see a lot of them out there. Essentially we are going to start with how to remove the throttle body without having to disconnect the coolant lines. We're going to replace the upper intake manifold gasket. Means we're going to be taking the upper intake off, which you're going to need to do with the BOSCH design because the upper bolts are hidden underneath the intake manifold. We'll give you some footnotes on some of the vehicles that are equipped with secondary air. This vehicle will not be equipped with secondary air. Your valve cover gaskets. And then while you have that passenger side valve cover off we'll show you how to replace the oil separator. They have a tendency to plug up. They act like a PCV valve so when they do become restricted or plugged you're going to end up drawing and using more oil than you need to. So, the parts you're going to need basically starting from the throttle body gasket ERR6623. We have the upper intake manifold gasket ERR6621. A pair of valve cover gaskets. They're the same part number LVC100260. And then the oil separator itself, which really looks like a little plastic Christmas tree LLJ000010. That's all you're going to need as far as parts go. Wouldn't hurt to have a gasket scraper or a scrubby pad, we're going to clean those areas up pretty well. And then we'll show you how it's done.And that basically would be plugged into the vacuum harness for the secondary air. Being this doesn't have secondary air, we just have a small black cover that runs over the top of that to seal that off so we don't have a vacuum leak there. We're going to install that in just a minute. This is just a plug in. Give it a pull. Make sure it's tight. We'll tighten our clamp here. Pop the nipple on there. And essentially we'll be pretty much done. What we do want to do though is we're going to run this where this belong. You can see the white tape there is for the location of this to hold that in place. Okay. We'll just get our little cover for that nipple. We'll put that clamp on. And we're essentially done. So, we have everything together right now. We've sealed up and done our valve cover gaskets, which like I said, can become almost a regular maintenance item on these. You can almost expect to do this every year and half, 2 years. So, when you're ready to changeover the valve cover gaskets on your 4.0 or 4.6 Discovery 2 or Range Rover, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Jim offers a checklist of things to look for if you suspect your Land Rover is overheating. Watch Jim as he reviews many of the common signs of an overheating engine. Jim also provides an explanation of how to address an overheating engine.
Discovery Series II and All Rover Vehicles: When Rovers Overheat, What to look for & How to resolve.Hi it's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. This morning we're just going to do an overview of your engine is overheating. The first thing you need to do is check the obvious things. Check your coolant level. Like in this truck, you can see it right here. You can actually, you don't have to take anything apart. You can see the coolant is okay. Look at that. If it's okay, another thing is, you have an auxiliary fan up here. Make sure that's running when it gets warm. Also on most of the Rovers you have a viscous fan. When the engine's warmed up you can probably turn the car off when it's hot and just touch the fan. If it feels stiff, that means it's working. Next thing to do when you check for the coolant level, if it was down, you have to figure out where that went. Top it up and have somebody pressure test the system. Let it sit there and then look for obvious leaks. You'll see it on the ground. Discovery 2's are famous for leaking radiators. Everybody buys 2 or 3. Another common leak on this car, the Disco 2, or if you have a Range Rover with the Bosch engine. Over here, on the throttle body there's a heater down on the bottom. You can see 2 little hoses here. It's a throttle plate heater kit. We sell them all the time. It's a common leak. And some people can't figure it out. Some people go oh maybe it's a head gasket. But if you got a puddle of water on your valve cover there it's definitely that. It's a very common leak and it's not a hard repair. I believe we've gone over that at one time. After you do the pressure test and you're not seeing anything going on, like leaking out on the ground which would be hoses, head gaskets or that plate I was just talking about, you need to figure out what's going on. So pressure test it again, and let it sit for quite a while. While you're waiting, take all the spark plugs out. Have it set for a couple hours. And then with 2 people, have somebody turn the engine over with the spark plugs out and see if you're getting some anti freeze out the holes. That's going to tell you there is something wrong with the head gasket or possibly a block. If you tear this engine down, get the head gaskets out and don't see anything really wrong with the head gasket, I would suspect the block. You can get it pressure tested with the heads off. There's a kit that a lot of places have that can do that. If you have the liner problem, on these later engines, it used to be the liner would drop. The later engines that can't happen. They've change the blocks. But what happens is, anti freeze can work between the actual aluminum block and the steel cylinder. It actually works its way up and dumps into the cylinder. You can notice this if you start the engine up cold and it skips for a little while and then clears out. You're maybe looking at a block problem. Especially if it's one of the interior cylinders like 2 and 4 and 3 and 5. It's definitely a block problem. Here at Atlantic British we are rebuilding engines, we have a whole program going, and we actually change out the liner with what they call a top hat style liner. We bore the old one out. We push this new one in. It's sealed. It can't do that again. So if you do have the liner problem we can probably give you another engine. You can call our sales department at 1-800-533-2210. Explain to them what's going on. Think you may have a liner problem. And they can probably hook you up with a rebuilt short block. We also have all the head gaskets. All the hoses. Everything's in kits. It's easy to do. Just grab all your parts. Like I said, check us out on RoverParts.com. Or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and we can probably fix your overheating problem.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Tech, remove and replace the engine in our 2000 Discovery Series II with one of our exclusive remanufactured engines. Doug goes in-depth in this engine installation, which in real-time should clock in as a 10 hour service. We recorded the process starting in January 2017 and finishing in November 2017, working on it when time allowed. It actually sat for months, as we had other things on our schedule to work on.
Engine Item # 9257DRK / 9257BRK Replace &Install Short Block Engine Demonstrated on 2000 Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on what unfortunately becomes a pretty common item. As these Discovery's are getting older what's happening is we're running into head gaskets, slip sleeves, damaged cylinders due to burning coolant, a number of different things where you would end up requiring to replace the block before you;d be able to do a proper rebuild. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to remove the engine out of a Discovery. This is a 2000. Essentially 1999 to 2004 are all going to be pretty much the same other than the 2003 and 2004 some have the secondary air that's just a little bit more involved there. But what we have here is a 2000 Discovery. The heads are already off the engine. We made a determination we have a bad cylinder sleeve. And we're going to have to rebuild and replace the block. So, we're going to show you basically what you're going to need if you want to change the engine over on your Discovery. So essentially we're going to start from underneath the vehicle. And there's a lot to unbolt when you get underneath. Main thing is going to be you have 4 bolts that attach the transmission torque converter to the flex plate. We're going to access those from an opening that's just above the starter. We're also going to be taking this little bottom plate off so we have access so we can move the torque converter. This bottom panel that sits underneath the front pulley of the engine, we'll take this out so we can put a ratchet and a socket on the lower crack pulley so we can turn the crank. That makes that easier. Starter wiring. Knock sensor wiring. We've already removed the heads off this engine so we already disconnected at the exhaust so the exhaust is floating free. You've got your 2 cooling lines that run from the transmission up front to the transmission cooler. We're going to unbolt some of that. There are some brackets on that that attach it to the engine. And the of course the bottom bolts for the back of the oil pan. And the 2 on each side above where the transmission bolts to the block. And then the other 2 we'll get to from up top. We're also going to unbolt the, probably unbolt the mounts. You've got 2 nuts on the bottom here. Some of this like the mount bolts you'll want to pre-soaking in penetrating oil before you get into to the rest. Give that a chance to work it's way in. So there's a bit to do. But it's all got to get done. It's not all that bad. It's just a little time consuming but it's nothing but nuts and bolts. All right, so, first things first. We'll start with the heat shield that surrounds the starter. And that will give us access to the 2 wires that attach to the front of the starter. The S wire and the battery cable. And what holds that on, the back of it is a snap clip, but in the front there's a little hidden bolt right up on the engine mount. Just over that plate on the inside. You're going to have to do it by feel. A 10 millimeter head bolt. And that's what attaches to the front of the heat shield to the motor mount. You need to remove that to get the heat shield out of there. So we're going to sneak up in there with a ratchet and short extension, a 10 millimeter socket, take that bolt out. so we've taken the bolt out of that shield on the round the starter as they said there's just a snap clip on there so we push outward and then come back a little bit now like I said earlier you have the battery disconnected so you don't have to worry about shorting out or touching that wire and this is gonna just sneak right out the front steering that comes right out there's the snap clip I'm talking about so you can see this just basically grabs right around the starter solenoid take that out alright so our next step is going to be to disconnect the cables off of the starter and you have o
Take a tour around the Land Rover Discovery Series 2, 1999 - 2004, cooling system. Watch Jim as he identifies the various components of the Discovery 2 cooling system, including the radiator and hoses. Jim also provides useful tips and information.
Cooling System of the Discovery Series IIHi It's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. Today we're going to discuss cooling systems. Things to look at. Things to replace. This is a Discovery 2. A real common problem on these cars first is radiators leak. If you haven't done one you're going to do one, maybe 2. And hoses. Like the upper hose. I have some of the covering taken off so you can see this. This is the upper radiator hose. Over in the back are the ones that run into side to the heater. If I come back out here again - a big thing to know is right here in this top hose - this is where you bleed the air out if you're doing a coolant change or a hose change. Here at Atlantic British, we'll show a little later, you can buy a complete hose kit for this car and most Rovers. I would say all Rovers. Another thing to look at, and it's a real common thing on these cars, is over here at the throttle housing. If you can see where these 2 lines go in. One goes down into the intake manifold and the other one goes all the way over to the coolant reservoir. There's a throttle heater plate in here that has a real problem with leakage. We sell a kit to replace it. Kit comes with the gasket, and another plate. Also 3 bolts. Some people can do it with it in place. There's like 4 bolts. You can just take this throttle housing out and do it. It's a real common problem. You'll see anti-freeze actually laying on your valve cover. It's probably a good idea with these cars, I would say at least every 30,000 miles to change the coolant. It turns to acid. It starts to east stuff up. If we go around back I have a kit, and I can show you the hoses that come for this car. Here in the back of the car we have the hose kit for this truck. Start showing, you get the upper kit, the upper hose the new bleeder and everything in it. This is the hose that goes down to the thermostat. As you can see this comes with the clamps. They're real easy to operate. Just squeeze them with a pair of pliers. Move it back. Put the hose on. Squeeze it. Move it back in place. As I said, most of them come with clamps. We also sell a clamp kit for hoses that don't have it. As you notice this is the one that goes into the heater. It doesn't have a clamps. It actually shows you where they want the clamp to be. You can order your hose kit here at Atlantic British at RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Talk to our sales staff. They can definitely run you through the hose kit. And actually, they know all about that throttle body heater. And keep following us on YouTube. You'll learn a lot about your truck.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, replace the serpentine belt (using Kit # ERR5579 ) on a 1997 Defender 90. In this video, Doug will show you how to access and remove the belt, and then replace and install a new belt. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles.
Part #: ERR5579 Belt Change On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on belt replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. And in this kit you simply will be getting the replacement serpentine belt. Now this particular belt is used on both the 97 Defenders and the Discovery 1 4 liters. Now you'll see a part number ERR5579D and what we are going to do is show you the basics on belt replacement. Now I'm going to show you how easy it is to change the serpentine belt on your D90. This is a 97 with the serpentine, not with the multiple V belts. This is the belt you are going to receive in your kit. Your part number ERR5579D. Set that right there. First step is we're going to take this upper coolant hose; that will just slide up out of the way very nicely. You have 2 bolts that run down through the brackets that support the fan shroud. Normally, 10 millimeter heads on the 2. And the center section of this upper shroud is just held in place with 2 clips. One here - just going to lift up. Release that clip. Down on the other side you have the same style clip. You are going to roll this forward so that it clears so you can lift straight up and out. And this gives you pretty nice access to this. We've got enough clearance in there. Your belt tensioner, which is right here, has a 15 millimeter head on the nut right there and that's what we are going to turn to take the tension of the belt. Now it's a 15 millimeter, I use a long 15 wrench, gear wrench. There are a number of fan wrenches available out there. You just need something fairly long that will give you the leverage you need. You're going to push down which you see releases the tension on the belt. Slip it off of the top of the alternator. As a note, before you take the belt off completely, take a note of the way it is routed. Under the water pump. Under the lower pulley. Over the top of the power steering pump. Top of the alternator. And around the compressor. Once you loosen the belt up the fan is in the way. So you can loop the belt around the fan. Turn the fan until that area of the belt comes around. The fan will actually assist in that, help you out with that. Take this side off the power steering pump. Push it down to give it some slack. Then simply slide your belt out. Now this belt is in pretty good position. We're just doing this as demonstrative so you would essentially just take your belt out. And what I recommend, just a habit I got into all the years is take the 2 belts, end to end, stretch them out. You just want to verify you have the right size belt before you go try and install it and find out it might be off an inch. And this one is a good fit. You can see it is exactly the same as the original that came out. Set that aside. Drop this down so you can actually slip the bottom of the belt right underneath the fan. Which will then put us right around the bottom of the lower pulley which is where we should be. We'll start off there with the installation. Lift up a little bit and set the belt in the grooves. We remembered we went over the top of the power steering pump. We're going to take this piece on the right side and just run it here around the AC compressor, because that's where eventually it is going to go. And we went under the water pump, which means we have to go around the fan again. Fortunately with this upper shroud off you really have some room to work where you can put your hand down inside and push that belt down below the fan blades. It's a tight fit between the water pump and the lower pulley, which means you can feed in from one side and pull out the other. There we go. You want to check and see that we didn't slip off the bottom pulley. And as I say, we can get our hand down in there. Very good. Now make sure the belt is centered. You want to give it a good look because it could feel like it is on but you could be 1 rib over, which means after you put it on you'll have to take it all back apart again and readjust it. Okay, centered on both sides of the lower. Centered on the underside of the water pump pulley. Over the top of the power steering pulley. We're going to be between the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley. Top of the alternator. Now when we go around the AC compressor you can unloop the belt from around the alternator because that's where you're going to end up putting it back on. And you hold up on that section of the belt to retain tension so that you don't slip off down below and have to do that again. We'll double check. We're still centered on the bottom pulley. Look good here. Look good here. Center the belt on the idler pulley. Again you're going to maintain tension, take your long 15 millimeter, push down to relieve the tension on the belt. Slide that on. Check for tension - that looks good. Again always double check and triple check to make sure your ribs are lined up where they should be, that your belt is centered on the pulleys and we look good. Essentially our belt is now on. All we need to do at this point is reinstall the upper shroud cover. Put your clips on. Your 2 bolts. And you have changed your serpentine belt. Now when you put this upper shroud in there's actually sort of a slot that it sits in. You want to make sure it is fully seated. And you will know if it isn't because you'll have a real hard time trying to clamp this clip. If it pops on that easy you know you're in place. Same thing with the lower. You'll feel it pop in. Clamp it. Put your 2 bolts back in to hold on the upper shroud. These are essentially just sheet metal screws that thread into the plastic itself. Put your hose back on. Make sure that when you put the hose back on that you don't create any tight bends, that you have a good looping bend on there so that it doesn't restrict the coolant. And there you are. You have a brand new belt on there. So when you you're ready to change the belt on your D90, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Watch Jim as he gives his tips in the replacement of the thermostat of a Land Rover Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004.
Replacement Tips: Thermostat for Discovery Series II, 1999 - 2004Hi it's Jim at Atlantic British. I take care of the technical support here. The other day we had someone actually, I think it came of one of the YouTube videos, has a question about thermostats on the Disco II. It is a reasonable simple operation, but we're it is and what you kind of have to do to replace it. Here's a picture of the thermostat. It sits in the car this way. There are 2 hoses on the top, one on the bottom. Now if you are going to replace it, you have to get this top cover out of the way. There's 4 screws, 2 up here. There's another one straight down there. And another one over here, which I all ready took out. Just do a quarter turn on them, they should come loose. Get your upper radiator hose out of the way. Just lift it up out of there. With that out of the way you should be able to see where the thermostat is. I'm going to turn my little extra light on here so Cheryl can get it. It is right here. You can see the 2 top hoses and the bottom hose. Really all you're going to have to do with this is get a pair of pliers on this, take the top hose off. Pair of pliers just squeeze these and get that off. When you get that you can kind of turn it and do the same thing on the bottom. Disco II there is no real radiator drain. This is the only way you are going to get the coolant out of the system, so make sure you have a pan on the ground underneath there when you are taking the hose clamps off. Once you get your new thermostat in there, you put your cover back on, I don't really need to do that now, it is simple. The thing you need to remember, and I'm going to highlight it again, here is the bleeder for the cooling system. Before you do anything take this out and then slowly fill by the coolant tank over here, until you can see some water coming out of here. Then you are just going to start it up and let it run. Heat it up. Let the car cool down again. Check the level, top it up as necessary. Some people wonder what goes wrong with these. Common thing is they stick open and you don't have any temperature in the engine. Once in a while they'll stick close, that's not too often. Sometimes they get air bound. That will be if you have a leak somewhere in the system and a little air got in there. So if you fill it up and bleed the air out you should be fine. That's about it with the thermostat in this car. It is a very simple system. You can get thermostats here at Atlantic British at RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. We carry this 2 ways. This one in my hand is the genuine part straight from Rover, or we have an aftermarket alternative. You can buy that one. Same part just not in a Rover box. Check out your thermostats. You could have a problem there.
Doug gives an overview look of the front engine cover on a 4.0 / 4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid-1999 to 2004 with Bosch Systems. Common failures / issues and how to identify and resolve.
An Overview Look at the Front Engine Cover on 4.0/4.6 Land Rover Engine Mid - 1999 to 2004 with Bosch SystemsCommon Failures / Issues and How to Identify and ResolveHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video I think what we're going to do is take an overview look of the front engine cover on 4.0 and 4.6 Land Rover engines. Used primarily from mid 1999 - 2004 and this engine is the type with the Bosch system. There's several things that you can look for on front covers. They actually hold a very important part in regards to engine design and control. And so we're going to touch base on a few things just to give you an idea of what you are dealing with. Now this is a nice fresh front cover, right out of an engine. All cleaned up. Now the first thing you'll notice in the front of course, is your mount for your water pump. You have a gasket between the water pump and the front cover and you can at different points have these gaskets fail where you can develop a coolant leak. This opening right here is for your cam position sensor. Which, when you do some work on the front of the motor you will see two wires actually, enter at this point. One will be to the cam sensor and the other sensor you have is your oil pressure sensor. Now, this has the newer design on it, with the rectangular opening for the connector instead of the single spade. If you are converting from an earlier Bosch engine with the single spade sensor, and of course when you order a new one you will get this design. There is also a jumper wire you will need to get to attach the two together. It's just a small jumper. Down below that is your oil filter housing. Your oil filter would screw on to the bottom here. And these two white plugs would be your connections for your oil cooler if your vehicle is equipped with an engine oil cooler. Some do, some don't. If you don't, you'll find two brass plugs in there that look similar to this one. If you do, of course they would be open and at the end of those two lines are two small O rings where you can also develop oil leaks so it is a good area to look into. Now if you come around to the back you get into the guts of the front cover. Here lies a gasket all the way around. And they are known to create failure on the driver side top corner, the gasket likes to pop out. You can see you have a relatively thin area for it to seal. And you will get some times and I've run into this before on diagnosing some of these, the coolant leak that you can't find because it is essentially in a very hidden area and it starts off as a very slow leak. So this would be an area to look at if you feel you are losing coolant, you know you have a leak but you just can't find it, this is a good place to look. Then you have your oil pump. The oil pump is mounted internally in the cover, and the cover itself is actually the outer machined area of the oil pump. In the oil pump you have your central drive gear. This is driven by the crankshaft, and then it turns this rotor, which in turn, turns this rotor, and they're designed to run in an eccentric design so as the gearing crushes together it creates pressure, and at the very bottom, built into this you will see the oil pressure bypass valve, that little spring down inside the housing and that is the exiting point of your oil, from that point to your filter and into the rest of your engine. So that pretty much covers the front cover. Now, something just a quick mention: on the Bosch design, with the oil pump, this is your connection for your oil pick up tube. Which means to remove this front cover you also need to remove the oil pan. So if you should be replacing this gasket and you're ordering your parts be sure to get an oil pan gasket. You're going to need it because you're going to remove the oil pan to access it. Other than that, this is pretty much a basic design. This is the same front cover you'll see on all the 4.0 and 4.6 with a Bosch design. Clear cut, aluminum, light weight and now that you have an idea of what problems may occur on this, you know where to look. Again, I'm Doug, tech support representative for Atlantic British. Any of the parts we stock for this you can order through any of our knowledgeable salesmen, and you can reach us at 1-800-533-2210. Have a good day.
Learn the differences between BOSCH and GEMS V8 engines found in Land Rover Discovery I, Discovery II and Range Rover models. Jim shows how to determine whether your Land Rover is equipped with an ACE suspension. The video also shows how to change a pollen filter on a Range Rover and highlights key vehicle components.
Bosch Engine vs. GEMS Engine: An Under-Hood Tour of the Discovery Series II and Range Rover P38Good morning. It's Jim from Atlantic British again. I take care of the technical support here. We have a little motto around here if you've got questions, we've got answers. Today we're going to explain the difference between a GEMS engine in your Range Rover and a Bosch engine. We get people wondering about this all the time. We're going to start with 1998 Range Rover here. This engine is the GEMS engine. The easiest thing to figure out is you'll see this center plenum. It'll say either 4.0 or 4.6 on them. That's the easiest way to tell. Now over next to us here, we've got a Discovery 2. If you look under the hood of this one you can see it's marketable different. It's commonly called what I call the plumber's nightmare. And that's basically the easiest way to tell the difference between the 2 engines, is they really look difference now that you see a picture. While we're here at the Discovery 2 another question we always get is 'Does my car have the ACE suspension in it?' Again, the easiest way to tell, now this car does not have it. Find your power steering reservoir which is right here. It has one cap. If this truck did have ACE, the reservoir would look like this one, with 2 caps on it. It's the simplest way. There's also a picture on our website showing the actually hydraulic rams underneath the front end. While we're here we can give you a quick tour of under the hood. Over here would be your brake master cylinder. This is the fabulous unit where you get the 3 Amigos from. This is the server for the ABS unit. If we pan over to the other side of the truck, this would be your reservoir for the coolant. And right here is the underhood fuse box. Which comes off. Right there. And find all your fuses in there. We've got both cars together. We'll go back over to the 4.0. Another question we normally get is about pollen filters, which you should do I would say maybe every 15,00 miles. They're located in these compartments just at the base of the windshield. They have these covers on them held with 2 screws. You remove the screws. Get that out of the way. And it just pulls out. As you can see Nancy here has nice clean ones. When you're all done just slide it back in, put the cover back on and replace the screws. While we're at this truck, same thing. Here's your coolant tank. Next to that is the fuse box. These trucks have problems with these fuse boxes. As you can see these relays get discolored from overheating. Especially these 2 fronts ones that go with the air conditioner. And a little hint: If these relays get hot, take a look at your pollen filters because usually it overworks the blower motors. This would be your windshield washer solvent. And moving over here this is power steering fluid. Under here is your air filter. And back here is the reservoir for the brake cylinder. Contained in this box here is the air compressor for the air suspension. This car has the air suspension removed so I don't think it's in there anymore. Here at Atlantic British we carry lot's of parts for both of these cars. You can contact us on either RoverParts.com or give us a call at 1-800-533-2210. Contact our sales department. They're very knowledgeable on both of these cars. And another good idea - you can probably follow us on YouTube. Go to our website and you can sign up for the YouTube videos. You'll get notifications when a new one comes out.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he walks you through the intuitive iCarSoft LR II system. This video showcase the V.1.0 model tool. The latest version is the V.2.0 Diagnostic Tool and is very similar in form and function to V.1.0 (with a few more functions, bells and whistles!) iCarsoft Multi-system Scanners support full system diagnosis for Land Rover vehicles. They enable technicians and Do-It-Yourselfers to accurately diagnose complex problems. Multi-system Scanner supports full system diagnosis. It’s a powerful diagnostic tool.
An Overview Using The LR II Multi-System Diagnostic Tool by iCarsoft (LR-II) For Land Rover & Jaguar Vehicles (2nd Generation)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video what we're going to do is touch base on a diagnostic tool that we carry in our line. The iCarSoft LR II. Now this is a tool that's come out that's specifically designed to access Land Rover modules, and not just your OBD II, but can also get into ABS, your air suspension if you have the later models that are equipped with that, actually a number of modules depending on which vehicle or which Land Rover you're working on. So just to give you basics, we've got this unit plugged in. This is the screen that's going to come up. And this is with the ignition key on. You're going to let the vehicle go through its self test. Most of the newer Land Rover vehicles go through an initial self test. Only takes a few seconds. We're plugged in, and we have power. Now before we get into the modules, I just want to give you an idea of some of the other capabilities of this. If we scroll over to settings, you have an up down side to side arrows. We'll hit okay. And with this you can change the language, the unit of measure, and even turn the beeper on and off. So say we go to unit of measure, and hit okay. You can either go to metric or imperial. We can back out of that. As far as language you can see it actually will translate to a number of different languages. So we're going to leave it up in English. And we hit escape to back out. And we do that again. Now on the help side, this gives you a lot of information. First line is going to tell you initially give you the location of your diagnostic link connector is located. Then below it we have the DTC library, which you can type in the codes that you're getting and it will give you the definition. It will look that unit up. We'll hit escape. What it will also do is explain abbreviations. So when you get into some of the live data, you're going to see explanations or abbreviations. So say we go to ECT, we want to find out what that is. It will tell you it's a coolant temperature sensor. It will tell you how it's normally displayed. Here it will run from minus 40 to 215 degrees Celsius. Or minus 40 to 419 degrees Fahrenheit. And again it will tell you many of the diesel engines, they don't include this sensor. So, again it gives you good information on what you're looking at. So we'll hit escape and back out of that. And we'll hit that again. Tool information is simply going to tell you what software you have in here. Serial Number of the unit. Registration Code which you may need later on if you're going to do updates. Which you can do on these without having to send these in.Heating and ventilation. Basically run on down the line. So when you just get to the one that you're looking for. Let's look at transfer box. Again we'll look at, okay. And essentially this is going to give you versions. We'll scroll down to data stream. And basically just on that particular transfer case there's 4 different functions you can view. So this gives you an idea essentially of what this is capable of doing. This does not do any programming. But it will help you keep you from chasing your tail trying to figure out what's going on with your Land Rover without having to spend a lot of money on parts that maybe you don't really need. This tool will at least help you work your way in and pinpoint what the problem is, or at least give you the fault codes which, based on the technology on today's vehicles you need to, otherwise you'll just be chasing your tail trying to figure out what's wrong with them. So, when you're in the market for a reader, and you'll find that this is very reasonably priced compared to what it will do, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to set you up with one of these. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he gives you tips and pointers on diagnosing a bad spark plug or ignition coil. This tech tip is demonstrated on an LR3 V8 4.4L. Also Applies to: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2010-2013; Range Rover Sport 2010-2013; Range Rover Full Size 4.4 Jag Engine 2006-2009; Range Rover Full Size 4.2 Supercharged Jag Engine 2006-2009. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part # LR005253 Spark Plug // Part # 4744015 Ignition Coil Diagnosing Bad Spark Plugs & Coils Demonstrated on: LR3 / Discovery 3 V8 Engine Only 2005 - 2008. Also applies to: Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport 2006-2009; Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2010-2013; Range Rover Sport 2010-2013; Range Rover Full Size 4.4 Jag Engine 2006-2009; Range Rover Full Size 4.2 Supercharged Jag Engine 2006-2009Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on how to essentially diagnose whether you have a bad coil or a bad spark plug. And this will be demonstrated on a 4.4 LR3. This will be 2005 to 2009. The same application basically is going to be the same for the Sport, the Supercharged Sport. And the basis of this will also apply to the Full Size Range Rover. Any of the 2006 to 2009, with the 4.2 or the 4.4. Now essentially what happens is the check engine light comes on. You get in. You check the codes. You're getting misfire codes. There are a number of reasons why you can have a misfire code. We're not going to touch on all of that right now, but what we are going to concentrate on, the most common factors usually either a bad coil or a spark plug has failed. And essentially what you're going to need to check it out because we want to keep this as little complicated as possible is one, obviously you're going to need a ratchet, quarter drive with a 16 millimeter socket, that's going to take the top engine cover off. A low voltage test light. This unit is used to not only check for power and grounds at the 12 volt level, but also at the 5 volt level. So that will be versatile. We're going to need that. A pair of pliers. This style I seem to favor for pulling the 2 relays out of the relay box and we'll show you why we're going to do that. And then I like to keep a long straight blade screw driver if I have a problem getting the connector off the coil. You can use this to lift the tab up a bit, and just enough to coil off. And then we have an old school momentary switch which we're going to use to jump the starter relay, crank the engine over. This is if you're working alone and you don't have a helper to be able to turn the key for you. So essential where we're going to start is we've taken the engine cover off. I've removed, popped off the plastic cover that covers the coils and the spark plugs. This is a 2006 LR3 with a 4.4.I would replace that plug. Now here's a good running plug. We have a light tan tint to the porcelain on the bottom. If you see more of an orange tint or possibly green if you're using the green coolant, which shouldn't be in this vehicle. But if you see more orange to it there's a possibility you're getting coolant in there. You can use the spark plug to start of read the situation that's developing in there and why you would have a misfire in that cylinder. So at this point, if you've also pulled the spark plug and you've checked spark, then this is not the cause of your misfire, you need to be looking at either fuel injection or possible compression test, see if you have low compression and there's other things that can be involved with that. But, for testing the coil and the ignition, this would apply to LR3, LR4, Full Size Sport, basically any of these 2006 to 2009 Full Size LR3 and Sport that has the 4.4 and the 4.2 engine. So if you should come across where you find you need an ignition coil or a set of plugs for your vehicle just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
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