control arm videos
The LR3 and Range Rover Sport are showing their age. When the bushings on the lower control arms become worn, you will find the car does not handle well, and also, evidence of advanced tire wear will occur. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he discusses options you have for replacement of the lower control arms and the bushings installed in this arms, based on the tools/equipment you have or your how-to ability level. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210.
Polybush vs. Regular Bushing Overview: Replacement vs. Buying Whole Control Arms and Parts On LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we are going to talk about lower control arm bushings, especially for the LR3s and the Sports. They're starting to show their age. We found a lot of vehicles where they've gotten so lose where they're starting to bang. bang. They are actually creating so much movement that the car doesn't feel like it handles the same way anymore. Advance tire wear. And then again a banging noise from the lower end when you step on the brake or when you accelerate. So, anyway. What we have are several options. And these options mostly are going to depend on your mechanical ability and the equipment that you have. You can start the easy way, and a lot of guys will go this option, is to replace the entire control arm. These are the 2 bushings in questions. Plus you end up with a new ball joint and a new control arm. Now you have a hardware kit in case the old hardware is in bad shape. We actually offer you all the hardware to install the control arm with the alignment cams, the nut and the bolts. If you opt to have just the bushings replaced, you want to rebuild the existing control arm, you can install the factory designed bushings and ball joint. Things is you will need a press to install these. So keep that in mind. Or if you have a friend with a press or a shop that will press them in for you that will be fine. The control arm itself isn't all that bad to remove, and if you refer to our video that we have in the How To videos, you'll see exactly how to remove this. And it will actually show you a way where you can cut out the bushings without having to use a press. The third option is going to be the polybush which we actually show you how to install in one of our How To videos. Because once you've cut out the original bushings, these actually just slide in place. You install the metal insert and then bolt back in the vehicle. So it's relatively easy. So then again it's all a matter of the shop equipment that you have, your mechanical ability, basically what option that you decide to do. What's nice about it is that we do have the hardware kit separate so that if you do opt for the polybush kit, you can use the factory designed hardware to install it. And then that will set you up so that you can bring it to your local shop. You get your vehicle aligned and then you're all set and ready to go. The polybush are nice because they are easy to install. They do change the ride a little bit. Mostly favorable. It might give you a little nicer ride on the road. The original bushings again, this will set the vehicle back to its original specifications. Or you can do the same with just replacing the whole control arm. And again refer to our How To videos and there's a lot of good information in there on how to change them over. So, when you're ready to do that repair on your LR3 or your Sport just refer to our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, talk you through the replacement of the original equipment rear bushing (or you can use the
optional polybush kit, which we show in this video) of the lower control arm suspension. Access to this bushing is granted by removing the entire lower control arm assembly. This is a common replacement for Range Rover Sport 2006-2009, or LR3 2005-2009, and affects steering stability when the bushing becomes old and worn out. Lower Control Arm Suspensions: Rear Bushing Replacement On LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a very common issue that we find on the LR3s and the Sports. It is the lower control arm suspension. The rear bushing likes to soften up, which creates a lot of movement in the control arm, to the point where even stepping on the brake you can actually hear a bang noise coming from underneath. And what that does is throws off your alignment, creates tire wear instability on steering, overall just does not make the vehicle comfortable to drive. Also can be rather expensive in the end, especially if you're buying tires on a regular basis. So what we're going to do is show you how to remove the lower control arm and then you have the option of either replacing the control arm with either with original equipment bushings or we also offer a polybush, which we're also going to show you how to install those. So, what we have essentially have done is the vehicle is up in the air, tires off. We've taken the front brakes off, because we're also doing brakes on this vehicle. But getting the brakes out of the way does make the job easier. And makes the knuckle assembly much lighter to handle. We're not going to take the knuckle out.Now ideally when you get the vehicle back together, if you have access to a drive on ramp, or if you have room to work underneath, what you should do is get the vehicle down on all 4, set your height at normal ride height, and then you loosen the 2 pivot bolts that we just installed and your shock spring bolts. Let it neutralize. Let it settle down. And then re-tighten them. That will basically set all the bushings in their neutral positions. And it will ride a lot better. It will also eliminate the possibility of any squeaks. If you should have one of the bushings stressed because we tightened it when the axles were fully down. That's pretty much it. So if you are going to either change over your lower control arm or you want to install polybushings, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the rear shocks on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322).
Hi I'm Gareth your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on a 2005 L322. It's in need of new rear shock absorbers. We're going to be installing these new Bilstein replacement shock absorbers here that we sell. The mount, the top mount, is held on by three studs and three nuts up underneath the carpet which will show you momentarily. The rear, sorry, the lower mount is bolted with a big long bolt through the lower control arm of the vehicle. So like I said a short while ago we're replacing the shock absorbers because the lower bushing in the shock absorber itself is blown out on this side. Literally totally, the rubber casing is separated from the steel sleeve. If you want to get the closer look you can see here how it's almost off of the bolt at this point here. So the first job is to pull out the load space area cover. Ss you can see I'm kneeling on the spare tire here. These shocks do look like they've been replaced once before. This car does have a few miles on it. The carpet has already been removed once. But if you can lift the carpet up without too much damage or take off a few of the brackets that would be a good start. The nuts that hold the top of the shock on are a 16 millimeter nut. They are pretty tight so do expect to have to work them a little bit with a breaker bar. I've loosened them off already and I'll be doing, working from both sides of the lower face and the top face in here but we just wanted to show you where the shock mount came through the floor of the car so you can access it easier. Of course the front, sorry, the rear seats the base has to be folded all the way forward to access. So I've set the car up. I've got a jack stand underneath the lower control supporting all the suspension and any, you know, the main suspension components so that will relieve the tension on the shock absorber. I'm going to do it from the inside first so it can move a little freely. I think because the shock absorber is so, the lower bushing is so blown out I'll be able to just pull it off and remove it. Okay so we have the vehicle supported at the lower control arm by the jack stand which relieves the tension on the shock absorber. We're going to undo this nut, I'm going to wire brush it and put some WD-40 on it so we can slacken it off and drive out the bolt that holds the shock absorber to the lower control arm. So I've removed the hardware from inside the vehicle, the three 16 millimeter nuts from the top mount of the billstein, well the old strut. We're going to be putting a new Bilstein strut in there, shock absorber I should say. Because the old bushing is so blown out this thing is just going to literally fall off, off of the lower mount, and I did. And I'm pulling it out gently now, not to hit anything. So this is the old strut. As you can see the bushings totally blown out of it. You can see the old steel shell of the old bushing. We're going to be replacing it as a whole new assembly. The next job for me is to remove the nut, pull the main bolt out that supports everything, install the new one and then remount it at the top. Here we have the bolt removed from the vehicle off the lower control arm. As you can see this is the bushing which is actually part of the shock absorber which totally blew out and as you can see it's all worn away. This is going to be removed and thrown away because it comes with the new shock absorber. This is the bolt that holds everything together. As you can see it's a little bit rusty. I'm actually going to clean it up on the wire wheel here that we're lucky enough to have. Clean up the threads. I'm gonna put some anti-seize compound on the bolt so we don't have to worry about it being serviceable in the future. Everything should come apart it needs to and I'm gonna start reinstalling the new shock absorber. So this is the new shock absorber as I explained before. I'm going to put it down into the suspension assembly first, slide it up into place, hold it on by the three nuts initially loosely, and then mount the lower bolt, and then re secure everything nice and tightly using a bit of anti-seize on the bottom bolt, just so like I say it can be quite easily serviced in the future and then tighten everything up accordingly. This is the awkward part. Okay so we've got the new shock absorber installed, top and bottom, the bolt all cleaned up. I don't know whether you can see it, but it's there, the new bolt, well, old bolt cleaned up, wire brushed, anti-seize the nut on this side right here at the back. As you can see it bit of anti-seize on there. I swung on it with a big breaker bar to make sure it's nice tight and secure. We've wrapped up this side pretty much. The other side exactly the same way. It could be a little work out for you. You might break a sweat from time to time. And after that I'm ready to put the wheels back on and make sure we road test the car, make sure we've got no knocks, rattles, bangs, squeaks. And we should all be good.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the
brake rebuild kit on a Range Rover Sport 2014. Doug will show you how to install front and rear brake pads and rotors including brake wear sensors. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or send us a note. Kit #: 8889 Install Brake Rebuild Kit On 2014 Range Rover Sport 5.0L, V8, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about brake replacement on 2014 and newer Range Rover Sport. No in this case we're doing the Supercharged, which has the 6 piston Brembo brakes. A lot of guys get intimidated by that, where it really is not that hard to do. So what we're going to do is show you how to install rotors and pads, and also the pad wear sensor. So if you hang in, we're going to show you exactly how to do it and how easy it is to do. To give you an idea of how simple it is, this is essentially all the tools you're going to need to change the fronts. You need a hammer and a pin to drive out the 2 pins that hold the pads in place. Couple straight blade screw drivers we can use to compress the pistons before we pull the caliper off. You're going to need a number 50 torx driver for the retainer pin for the front rotors and then a 21 millimeter socket for the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on the mount. Now I'm also going to recommend a good strong hook, because once you take that caliper off, while you're doing the rotor change, you don't want to hang that caliper by the brake hose. You can end up causing damage to the brake hose. So a good stiff hook. You can work one end into the caliper, one end the upper control arm, and that will hold it up out of the way until you're done putting the rotor on and you're ready to reinstall the caliper. So, essentially all you have are 2 pins that hold down this anti-rattle bracket right here. And we're going to just drive those 2 pins out. We're going to collapse those pistons before we take the caliper off. That's the best time to do it. And you can do it now, or you can do it after the bracket off. I'm going to remove the bracket first just to give you more visibility with what you're working with. And then we'll carry on from there. So while we're tapping this out, keep in mind that this is spring loaded. This has some tension on it. As you knock this upper pin out, this is going to want to force itself out. So this is why I use a long punch, so I can actually use the punch in place of the pin to hold that and then as I remove the punch, this will come out and I can take the bracket right up and out of the way.It's a little tight but you can get in there. So we're connected, we're routed. And remember we had also popped the wire for the parking brake motor out so we push the grommet back in place so everything's secure. So now it's just a matter of plugging this in. As you can see you basically have like a U shaped connection here. And then there's a cut out in the brake pad, so you just simply line the 2 up. Give this a little wiggle. And you'll feel it seat in. You just give it a light tug back, just to make sure it's locked in place. And there you are. You're good. So essentially we're going to do the same thing to the other side, which will actually be a little easier because you don't have to deal with the pad sensor. So once that's completed, you've got new brakes all the way around on your new Sport. So when you're ready to replace the brakes on your 2014 or newer Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you'd like you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our how to videos you can go to our YouTube site and subscribe and look at all the various videos that we've all ready done. So when you're ready. Thank you very much for watching. And Rover on.
A common problem on 2006 - 2009 Range Rover Sport (Supercharged and non-Supercharged) and some of the LR3s, is that you may hear a light rattle in the front end as you ride straight over small bumps in the road at lower speed. Using a 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged with Directional Stability Control (DSC) to demonstrate, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, diagnose the cause of the rattling noise in front end as possibly being one of two causes, worn rubber bushings in the
sway bar, or old sway bar link. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to live chat. Front End Rattling? How To Diagnose A Bad Sway Bar Bushing or Bad Sway Bar Link, Demonstrated on 2007 Range Rover Sport Supercharged with DSC (Directional Stability Control)Hi I'm Doug, your tech representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to touch base on a something that seems to show up quite often on the 2006 and later Sports. 2006 to 2009, some of the LR3s. This is a Supercharged 2007 Sport. And this has DSC, which is the directional stability control or hydraulic sway bars in it. And what happens is a lot of people call me and they'll ask about the situation where they're going down the road and on light bumps, in a straight ahead motion. You hear a little rattle come from the front end. Not so much when turning. Not so much at higher speed. And what happens is over a period of time, what you have are 2 rubber bushings that support that sway bar, and hold it against the frame. Well, the rubber dries out. Especially in areas where we're subject to a lot of salt in the wintertime. It all takes effect. So, a good way to find out if that is the cause of the issue. You have 2 things that could possibly cause it. You have a sway bar link here. Which you can place a bar underneath this control arm and lift on the sway bar right here. And if you see lose motion either on this lower joint or the upper joint, then that's telling you that the link is worn out and it's time to replace. The other, which is really the more common, is the bushings that support this sway bar and hold it to the frame. These are supposed to be a good, tight fit. So what happens is if you're able to grab the bar and move it in and out, like so, and you can actually hear that bushing squawk a little bit as I'm pulling it. That's telling you that those bushings have compressed, and they're no good. And they're no longer able to hold that sway bar tight. So when you hear that little rattle, this gives you an idea of where to look and then once you've decided whether it's a bushing or the sway bar link, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Atlantic British Ltd. Repair & Maintenance Academy How-To Video: Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain front wheel bearing failure on a LR3, 2005-2009. He goes on to discuss how to resolve this common issue with replacement of the front hub bearing assembly. This replacement of the hub bearing assembly is also valid on a Range Rover Sport, 2006-2009. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via live chat. NOTE: We offer two versions of the hub assembly: Best quality is part # LR014147 (Axle Retainer Nut is additional - see related items on the part page.) Value quality is part # LR014147A (includes an Axle Retainer Nut but part is manufactured for a shorter lifespan / durability.) Front Wheel Bearing Failure and How To Install a New Hub Bearing Assembly on LR3 2005 - 2009 or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009 Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in the video we're going to address something that shows up quite a bit, that I find any way, on the LR3s and Range Rover Sports and that's front wheel bearing failure. Now, you can replace the front wheel bearings on these by themselves. I know there are some areas that you can get them, but generally when you try to press the old bearings out and press the new ones in, some damage is done to the new ones. It's always better to just replace the hub assembly. It also makes it a much easier installation. Now the first way to find out if I actually have a bad wheel bearing or not is you hear growling noises from the front end, you can hear a loud brake squeal on corners and what that is from is from excessive movement. Now you want to verify that - you jack your vehicle up. You can either jack up by the frame, or if you're dealing with a floor jack slide that under the lower control arm, get the front wheel off the ground. Okay, so caliper is mounted. Brackets back in place. Make sure your hoses are back in their little retainers. You have a small yellow retainer, usually on the brake hose to hold one of the cables in place. Your pad sensor is in place. Caliper is tight. Nut is tight. Nut has been crimped. Retainer screw for the rotor in place. Now you're just going to put the wheel on. One last thing to take note because you have pushed the pads in to remove them off of the rotor, when you first get in your pedal is going to be rather low. Before you move the vehicle, start it up, pump the pedal a few times, get your brake pedal back up, and then you're good to go. So again, this is how you're going to replace the hub assembly on the front of your LR3 or your Sport. When you're ready to do so give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and thanks for watching.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, show you how to replace the front and rear ride height sensors on a Range Rover Full Size 2003-2005 (L322). Applicable Part #s LR020627G (front right) / LR020626G (front left) / LR032106G (rear).
Hi I'm Gareth, tech support here at Atlantic British. Today we're working on an L322. It's actually a 2005 model. We're going to be replacing rear and front height sensors. The reason we're replacing the high sensors on this vehicle is that we were getting corrupt data from the height sensors through to the ride height control module and the car wasn't making any height adjustments. These, it's not uncommon to not have fault codes for this issue as data does get through but it has difficulty adjusting. A lot of the time it's due to the old sensor. This is a front, this is an original one. The the actual pivot point gets seized and tight. I can barely move this one so it won't flex with the sensor and ends up giving wrong information to the right height control module. This is the new replacement here as you can see, totally updated with a rubber bushing. You can see how easy that moves. It comes in a kit form with new retaining screws and a new replacement bracket. This is a 2005 model like I said with the BMW engine in it, which was built between 03 and 05. Part number for this particular model without active headlights is LR020627 for a front, and LR020626 I believe for the left front. The rears that we're going to replace first, this one I don't know if you can see clearly enough, but it's split here. There's a small crack in the body which allows water to ingress into the sensor and give corrupt data back to the ride height control module. And as you can see when I removed it from the other side it just tore apart unfortunately, so yeah definitely time to replace. This side was also starting to crack even though the screw came out. The new one for the left and right rear uses the same part number LR032106 genuine part that we sell. And this is the sensor itself. Again all rubber bushed, nicely. A little bit more updated. Not as big as cumbersome. And this also comes with a little tiny repair kit of new retaining screws. So we're gonna start here on the right rear of the vehicle for replacement to the rear sensor. It's a little bit of a tighter fit.It's located all the way back here against the rear subframe. It bolts the lower arm down on the lower control arm. There's a 13 mil headed bolt and nut that hold it in place here. There is one electrical connector right here there has to be cleaned. I generally spray with a bit of WD-40 or PB Blaster just to sort of loosen any dirt up or anything and I normally blow it with compressed air to loosen up any dirt that might have been caught in there. And then once the connectors off, we undo the two retaining screws, one here and one down at the back underneath, in the corner here. However I don't hold out much for the screws coming out that easily because they've been in there a long time and it's all heavily corroded. So I'll start on the nut here and bolt, then the electrical connector and then I'll work from underneath the vehicle and remove the two screws. Okay so here is the right rear height sensor removed. Lucky this time it came apart quite easily. Some, a lot of the time the hardware, these two screws that hold the sensor to the bracket rot out and you end up having to get vice grips out and start moving it bit by bit. But this one came out quite easily. This one is split down the side of the bracket and on this side you can see the split here, which was allowing water to get into the sensor and give corrupt information to the right height control module. So we're going to be putting the new, new one on momentarily and mounting it like so into the vehicle. 2 new screws, connector, with a dielectric grease in the connector to help waterproof it, stop any corrosion, and then we're going to move on to the front sensor. So the sensor is installed. Just a quick check to make sure that the arm moves nice and freely and doesn't obstruct the screws that we put in to hold it in place. And that's good. The arm goes back through the bracket hole somewhere here. There we'll put the original nut back on. There's nothing wrong with it. We'll hold it with a small 10 millimeter wrench down at the bottom. We'll zip it up make it nice and tight. We'll put the electrical connector back on with a little dab of dielectric grease and we're all set to move on to the front. So the new sensors all installed. It's solidly mounted to the lower control arm here. It's free and clear of the containing screws. The clips back on, dielectric grease on the inside of it. It's clipped on in place. That's all done we're gonna move on to the front section okay so here we are at the right front. This is the height sensor we're going to be replacing. I can already see at the top of the sensor it's split open. Plus I totally suspect this heim joint to be seized. I can't even wiggle it sideways, so I'm already assuming that it's bad and seized up. Gonna start off removing the electrical connector here. We squeeze the sides, the tabs, push it down, remove the connector. I'm going to disconnect the lower heim joint here at the lower control arm, and then we're gonna actually remove the whole bracket with the sensor from here and here. Obviously going to have to cut the cable tie that holds the wiring on for it right there and then we're gonna put a new bracket on. It'll go mount exactly the same place as the old one was but the new one has the plastic arms with the rubber bushings so they don't corrode and seize up. So this right front sensor, as I suspected with the left front, is seized solid. The arm moves at the sensor but won't pivot here at the arm and I'm pushing, there, I mean I'm forcing that quite badly and that would not it would, would not give good correct information to the right height control module. It would be corrupted. It's just totally rotted out, seized and needs replacing. Okay so the height sensor is off the car and I'm forcing it to move obviously, that would not work properly on the car. I mean it's freeing up now because I've moved it a couple of times but it's still way too tight for good correct data input to the right height control module. So with this we're going to be replacing, with the sensor, which comes with the new plastic arm with the rubber bushings, it's gonna get a new bracket, new screws and hardware that hold it all together and it has definitely been getting water in it off of the crack that is right at the top there where the hardware goes through. So the nice thing about the new sensors they come with the new bracket. We get to install the bracket first to the height sensor before we install it onto the car. So what I'm going to do is orient this in the right direction and of course we have the old one here to make sure I get it right. And we can screw it on using the two new screws. Screw the bracket on and then just use the old screws that hold the bracket to the subframe of the vehicle. Goes that way, like that. And for any beginners out there who want to try this it's always a good idea to take a photograph of it with your digital phone, cellular phone. Just pinched up a little bit. Don't have to go swinging on them they're small screws that's going into a small plastic housing. You don't want to strip the plastic housing out. You'll feel it bottomed out when it's tight. Check the other side. And there we go. Same as the old one. There, there, ready to install. I'm gonna get a cable tie for this so we can hold it on there nice and firmly. It's not flailing around. I'll go grab one. Okay so now we have the new right front high sensor installed. The clip, the wiring harness clip for the height sensor is on nice and firmly. The link rod is attached securely, as is the new bracket. I just zip-tied the wiring harness on nice and firmly just to stop it from blowing around and any possible catching of anything. We can put the wheel back on and we could lower the vehicle. We'll probably do a test first to see if we need to calibrate the suspension. You don't always have to calibrate the suspension, it depends on if there are any faults arise due to height sensor replacement. A lot of the time, or, most of the time all the height information is stored in the ride height control module. The sensor just tells the height control module what it's seeing. So not always calibration is needed but we won't see, know until we actually test the system. If we do then yeah we'll do a calibration procedure. If not luckily, hopefully, we have just replaced the sensors and the system will come back online and work properly. Okay so here we have the car off the left now, wheels back on. I've actually tested the vehicle a couple of times since we had the car on the ground. The air suspension is working back in operation normally now. There is no need to recalibrate every time you replace height sensors. The information is always stored in the right height control module on most of the Land Rover models. We did do all 4 sensors on this vehicle. I observed it with the diagnostic tool we had. The readings were with, well within parameters of one another. I did not calibrate it. I've tested the system in access mode normal ride height and in extended height mode and it is working perfectly fine. The vehicle drives excellent. I've no concerns over having any issues over to wanting to recalibrate. I've left it well alone. It doesn't need it. I'd be happy if this car came back to me from any repair facility in this condition.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, install tie rods on a Land Rover LR4 2011-2012. Using Tie Rod Part # LR010667. Check VIN # for correct tie rod fitment.
Hello I'm Gareth the tech support here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to do a inner and outer tie rod ends. It's on a 2012 Land Rover LR4. A quick intro on the inner and outer tie rod ends. We do a TRW kit here. The LR010667. The kit includes a new steering rack boot, an outer tie rod end, inner tie rod end, a little bit of grease and the fixing hardware. Now I did cheat a little bit and I've already undone and loosened a lot of the equipment. However I will go over it step by step on what to do. It's not particularly difficult. This job we should be able to sort of knock out in about 20 minutes, half an hour max in a good well equipped workshop. First job what I normally do is loosen the nut on the outer tie rod end and take the nut off the tie rod end. This one I did like I said loosened and took apart already. So it should theoretically, at this point fall out, he says. I'm gonna give it some help. A nice little copper hammer here and a tap. There are a few things I'm going to explain as we go along. As you can see at this point in time it doesn't look like a typical outer tie rod end. This is the new tie rod end and as you can see it's tapered. This does not appear to be tapered. This is actually a tapered cup that belongs inside the wheel hub assembly of the hub itself. So this has to be removed off of the outer tie rod end. I did one a few moments earlier over here. As you can see this is the cup with the taper, the tie rod. I used a two-legged puller. Basic two-legged puller to remove the cup from the tie rod end. They are on tight. I was lucky this one popped off quite easily with the use of an electric 3/8 wrench, sorry, electric wrench I should say. Popped right off. I have heard some times that you do have to apply a little bit of heat on them with the two-legged puller for them to pop.But this one came off quick and easy. This is the old inner and outer tie rod end like I said. As you can see there are no flats on the inner tie rod end nut assembly. What I used to remove them is a pipe wrench. Put it on and a quick, actually, this one's already loosened but that's what I use to loosen them. They're not particularly tight and they do not have to be particularly tight. So it's loose. Literally just unscrew the whole assembly is what I do. And the whole assembly is off. The only thing that holds the steering rack boot on is a zip tie or a metal clip which I generally cut and throw it in the bin. You always get supplied a new zip tie in the kit to go around the new boot here. And on the other end of it a smaller, nice squeeze clamp in the kit. The little white squeeze clamp. The next job what I'll be doing is I'm actually going to loosen this off the nut in the vise because I'm actually going to count the turns it takes to take the tie rod end off so we can be close for the alignment afterwards because obviously we don't want it too far out and end up having the wheels toeing out or tuning in too far scrubbing off the tires before it goes to the alignment shop. Yes the vehicle definitely needs an alignment after this job. On this vehicle you might notice we already did the lower control arms and we did the coil spring conversion. Now because we did the lower control arms the camber will be out so it absolutely has to go to an alignment shot for a full four wheel alignment, and that's why we're also doing these inner and outer tie rods. There as old as the vehicle is, so they've never been replaced. It's just good practice at this point because they're probably ten years old now. Wow that came well. Glad that popped off so easy. Two cups, one for each side. There's no size difference. They literally just go back in the slot. I'm gonna see if it will stay in, I might tap it a little bit with a copper hammer to see if it'll stay. If not I'll probably just pop it in at the same time I do the new tie rod end. So it appears that the cups, this is the first time I've done these on the LR4, it does appear that the cups do just push into place. They'll slip into place initially. A little tap and they stay ready for the new tie rod end to go into. Okay so I've got the new tie rod end put on the new inner tie rod end. I've actually put anti-seize grease on there and you have to watch because that stuff gets just about everywhere. You touch it once and you might as well live with it because it does not come off it seems like. So the new boot is on. Going to slide it back a little bit. As you can see this tie rod you know comes with two slots whereas the old one did not come with any slots. So if you can have a wrench big enough you can install it and pinch it off with a wrench. I'll find one afterwards but for the time being. No where in instructions does it say about using Loctite on the threads. I've never used Loctite. You can if you like. It's a personal preference. If you were to use any I would probably suggest the blue. Then it's very much easier you know for service in the future. I've always put them on, screwed them in without and pinched them nice and tight and I've never had one come loose yet. Even in the workshop manual it doesn't say anything about using Loctite. So at this point I'm going to screw it in to the rack. And that's that. I'm gonna try to find a wrench to fit. OK I've proven to myself I don't have a wrench to fit it so I'm going to put it that far the way I took it off. I'm going to make this easier for myself in a moment. Okay I pinched it tight. I'm gonna give it a nice good tug. And I think that would be plenty tight enough. I know it wasn't quite that tight taking the old one off. I put the same pipe wrench on it to loosen it, pull it straight down and it came apart. So at this point we can now slide the boot back on. I use a little bit of glass cleaner on the old seal area to lube the steering rack boot on. Pops right on. The kit comes with a big zip tie. That will hold it on. Going to snip off the excess. Tidy it up a bit. And then I'm gonna put the nut on the outer. At this point going to turn the steering in a little bit because I want the steering rack boot to sit in the groove where it should. That kind of locks it into place for the new clamp, which is here. I'm going to pinch off the lock nut, not tight, but just enough to hold it. Car is booked in for an alignment tomorrow. I'm just going to drop the vehicle down a little bit. And because I'm very lucky here I have the ability to use a bit of air. So the inner and outer is now on. Nice and tight. The new hardware is nice and tight. The collar is in on the knuckle joint, the outer tie rod end in place. I counted the turns back on, almost exactly the same as the old one came off. Of course the vehicle's going for an alignment tomorrow, the alignment shop is about five miles down the street. Is it going to scrub the tires a little bit? A little bit, fractionally, but obviously we're not driving it too far so the alignment will be taken care of tomorrow for camber which because we did the low control arms last week and because we've done the inner and outer tie rod ends. The boots on nice and secure. The inner tie rod end is nice and tight to the rack. That's pretty much the process for replacing inner and outer tie rod ends on LR4. This is a 2012 model. There has been some questions regarding inner tie rod end size. Some people say they have a 14 millimeter and a 12 millimeter. One on each side. This vehicle specifically had two 12 millimeters in a tie rod end size. A lot of the time if you're ordering online or anything, I would specify VIN number to get the correct one because I know on LR3 you can get a 14 millimeter one side and a 12 millimeter the other side. My experience with LR4 has been both sides of 12 millimeter however, can't be gospel, there is a possibility of a 12 and a 14 ml one side to the other. But it, like I say, in my experience, I've only ever come across to 12 millimeters one on either side.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, change the pollen / cabin filter on a Range Rover Sport 2014. Using our
Pollen / Cabin Filter Part # LR036369, it is recommended that these filters be replaced at least one a year. Part #: LR036369 Pollen/Cabin Filter Service On 2014 Range Rover Sport, 5.0L, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specification. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about cabin filters. Specifically now we have the cabin filter for the new L494 Range Rover Sports. This is the new body that started in 2014. And the installation is similar to the earlier Sports but there are some differences you need to know before you put one in. And you should change these on a pretty regular basis. At least once a year. Just because of the debris and whatnot that they keep from getting into the climate control. It keeps the air fresher. It gets rid of that moldy smell. There's a lot of reasons why you should replace this on a regular basis. So we're going to show you how. Alright. Before we begin and actually if you look in the factory manual it does tell you that before you can replace the pollen filter on this you need to have the ignition on. Now the vehicle not running, but just the ignition on and the air conditioning climate control on AC manual and recirculated. So before we even start we're just going to key, make sure all the lights are on on the dash. That's going to indicate that your key is on. Ac control being right here. We want to make sure we have AC on. We're going to turn off max AC. And turn the fan off. OK. Key on. Fan off. Now the next step is, and if you look right here, you have an arm that runs up. This has a tab on the end of it that is what locks the glove box door in place. We're going to push down on there and then on its equivalent on the other end. And we have to push down. Now this one is on the inside. It's a little tight space so you really need to get your finger in there, push hard to get these to release. So just come up just a little bit. Push down. And then that lowers the glove box. Obviously take everything out of the glove box before you do that. And so what that's going to do is open up that area so that we can change the filter. Alright so by following the instructions what that does is it lowers this chamber down and there is access to your filter. So we're going to pull that up and right out. Now you'll notice on the one we pulled out of there where the air flow direction is. Because on the earlier Sports it was from the top down. On this particular design it is from the bottom up. So we want to make sure arrow pointing up. So we'll take the dirty filter out. There's our nice new filter. We're going to check our air flow. This shows down. We want to make sure it's up. And then slide that back into the chamber we just took the other one out of. Now we have these little retainer tabs right here in the middle so we have to push down. We want to get underneath that because that holds that filter in place. And that's essentially it. So what we're going to do at this point now, all you need to do for the glove box is to flip it up, those tabs will lock back into place. Put all your gear back in the glove box. And turn your ignition key off. But that's pretty much it. A very simple replacement. Only takes a few minutes. And it's really good maintenance to change on a regular basis. Alright, so when you're ready to change over the pollen filter on your new Range Rover Sport, you can just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you like, you can click on this link and order online. And if you like our how-to videos and would like to know moreabout them, or be able to view them, you can actually subscribe to our YouTube channel and view all our different videos that we've done for any of the Land Rover vehicles. So we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 2 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. all right so you've seen us tear this down now we're gonna go over the things that we need to do before we start assembling the heads as you can see we have everything here and let's start putting it together so now we're at the point now we want to assemble the heads before we set them up on the block so just for a breakdown this is basically what you're gonna be assembling here we'll start with the head assembly itself the things you want to check obviously are for a clean straight surface for the valve cover for the exhaust and then most importantly for the head to block connection and you can see we have this all cleaned up now what we did too is we had put a straight edge on this and we can and you can actually get them out of an any automotive center someone will even loan them to you but these straight edges are accurate to within a half a thousandth of an inch and you want to do a crisscross pattern and then a straight up pattern and you want to basically look for any spots where you could see light if you hold a flashlight behind it and what that does it tells you that at that point then the head would need to be reground this one was in good shape and the bottom line is you don't want to have to have it surfaced if you don't need to reason being is if it had already been surfaced and was with inspection you have it cut again when you cut these and you cut too much off of them it because of the V pattern on the block it draws the heads closer together so what happens then is you may be able to give all the heads down but when you put the lower intake manifold on all holes aren't going to line up they're now closer together and not where they should be in regard to the manifold so keep that in mind if you like you can actually go on some of the forms that are out there you can download a program called rave Rav II and that has the overhaul manual which will give you a lot of the specs for how far you can cut the heads your torque specs for all your bolts and some some of your assembly run down beside our video so all that information makes this a little bit easier so again in this hope we we check the surface we look there surfaces are good our bracket is on now this is the driver's side head we want to make sure your ground strap is on now one thing we want to check is the oil delivery holes that run oil up to the rockers okay the way they're mounted on top and you'll see you got basically a small hole here this is a 5/32 drill bit we're just going to run that down we want to make sure that one is nice and clear that looks good and this one we can feel some drag and sure enough we've got some sticky mung in there so we're gonna do is take some break clean and blow that out on the same token the coinciding openings in the rocker arms you have your oil delivery holes feed a small chamber on the bottom of the rocker and as you can see there we get some buildup actually quite a bit and that can also cause a lowering of the oil pressure to the rockers so we want to make sure that's open and clean so we're going to clean those out we're gonna make sure those are open and then the next step would be to get the exhaust manifold bolted on so you know which manifold it is on your left side head of the two manifolds the single bolt that single bolt will always point towards the front of the engine so when you set the manifold on place if that's up front this is the correct manifold now we're going to show you something else in regard to the exhaust manifold gaskets proper positioning would be like so nope sorry like so reason being is this cross piece here that connects the two ports is below the spark plug and the head bolt now as you can see these can be mounted upside down and should you make that mistake you are now blocking off access to the head bolt and to the spark plug so when you put these gaskets on it should look like this with that cross piece laying on the bottom and then the front would be exactly the same so from there then we're gonna put the exhaust manifold bolts on don't forget that you have spacers on these bolts I've had this in this little little tray soaking and penetrating oil just to get them lubed up so these are gonna be a 12 millimeter 12-point don't forget to make sure you put your spacer so it's going to be your gasket your manifold and your spacer and then we'll lock those down good and tight and then spark plugs now we find the champions seem to run the best in these four all four six engines especially with the Bosch so you're going to set your gap which is also in the the the rave I believe these are 35 to 42 usually some at about 35 because as they where they'll stay within the specifications now is a good time to install them because it's right here in front of you you can lock them down you don't want to make them too tight because basically you've got the aluminum heads you don't want to over tighten the plugs then you're going to take a lot of torque just want to make sure you snug them in and then last but not least and I always replace the studs you'll see on the manifold that you're missing your three studs that go down through the catalytic converters reason being for that in many cases by the time you're doing an engine job on this the threads are pretty well worn off you might have even had to heat them up taking it out now these are set so that you have two different length threads the shorter end is going to go into the manifold leaving the extended area and the barrel extended out so we're going to just replace all those and it's the same thing if you have a stud puller a lock on that'll do a good job if not you can take a pair of needle nose vise grip and grab the barrel don't grab the threads spin that on and so essentially you don't see any more threads on a short and then you know it's fully seated and that's pretty much it so that at this point now once we get everything cleaned off and together we've ready to put the head on the engine all right so here's our heads completed and put together exhaust manifold spark plugs the rockers are on but loose because they're gonna come back off again e-way what do we get the heads on but they're they're they're cysts in sending the heads in place and you'll see why in a few minutes the other thing I want to mention here's your head gasket you can see that on one side they apply some red sealer and what you're gonna look for is that word top so that means that when you set this in place this is the top side this is what's going to be facing the head and again you can also recognize that by the rent sealer you see that red sealer you should be seeing that when you place it on the floor now you also have a couple locating pins on the block so you'd be able to actually set the head gasket and it'll stay in place when we lower the head on it all right so you see what I've done basically just run to rags underneath the rockers so that when they loop them under and come back up I have a good handle and threads the bolts are in you know a good 5 or 6 threads you want them in there a little bit you want to make sure this doesn't come loose second thing you want to mention always put a fennec cover on because there's a good chance you can end up popping into this you don't want to hit the fender you don't want to cause it dead just something else to work on later down the line so we're gonna do then is just simply lift up on the head I can lower it down in set it in place I only need to move it a little bit and it should pop right on you have two locating pins on the block itself one here and one in the back and it's going to hold the head gasket in place as well so everything will be lined right up and then we can put some head bolts in and get things torqued in so we got the head in place the pins will hold that it's not going to go anywhere taking the rockers back off you just back off the four bolts set that to the side because it will eventually go back on we got to put the lifters and the push rods in so you'll notice that we if you notice when you pulled it apart you had three long head bolts in the top Center and then the rest the remaining seven are the shorter bolts and there's your difference in length so we're going to put one of the long bolts in the top on the short bolt in the bottom in the center and then we'll just think we're gonna run the bus to the bolts install them and then just run them down so they're just touching when they're just touching the head and then from that point we're gonna well torque them up according to specs now specs on these we're going to be tightening them all to 15 foot-pounds and then you're going to turn each one 90 degrees with a breaker bar and then wait about 10 15 minutes and then an additional 90 degrees now being on this case we're starting with the new blocks we've got nice clean threads in the block for the head bolts they had this should this be a youth block or and you're doing just the head gaskets you want to make sure you run a thread chaser down each one of those holes you want to get it all corrosion dirt anything out of those sometimes it's even best if you have access to compress there shoot a little solvent down in each hole and blow it out with the air holding a rag over it so obviously you don't get in your face and from that point this way you won't always want to start with clean threads it's also recommended that before you run each head bolt in what we're going to do is keep a little bit of oil then we're just going to simply dip the end in those head bolts before we install them and this way you'll end up with a much better torque rating you're not fighting against any dirt or any buildup in those threads they're gonna thread in nice and easy so once we get those to win and it's essentially same procedure for the rest of the rest of the head bolts we're just going to run them in so they just touching the head so now we get the head bolts snugged in what we're gonna do that before we torque up now I want to just run this by anytime you put a head or a manifold or or even a pan like a pan gasket or a transmission pan anytime you tighten up something like that you always start from the center so you can do either top or bottom doesn't matter but you start in the center and then you simply work across and then in a outward spiral in other words so we do the bottom Center top Center then we can go to the left do top and bottom we're gonna go over to the other side bottom and then top and then around the top to bottom bottom the top and that's the best way to torque up ahead what that does is reduces Distortion you get a better lock down on it and then believe it or not make for a better job when you've done this once I'm going to wait a minute or two and then go around one more time just to make sure they're all evenly torqued all right so should have mentioned earlier the head to these bolts are 5/8 which is basically the same thing as a spark plug socket so I've used the swivel spark plug socket to run them in especially in those back corners it works very well but now that we're going to go to the 90 degree twist you're going to be getting into a much higher torque so we're going to step up to 1/2 inch drive 24-inch break a bar with a 5/8 socket on the end so we'll start in the middle and we'll go exactly 90 degrees and you can plus or minus 10 degrees it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect there are gauges out there that are available that you can actually install before you put the bolt on or socket on and it will show you at 90 degrees but 90 degrees is pretty much just a straight angle so what we'll do see like in this case really can't get a good bite on anything where it's gonna be easy to figure out 90 there we go alright so essentially here's 0 so 90 degrees is you're gonna run into where the bar should end up actually just about perpendicular to the block and we're essentially just gonna do the same thing all the way around the same thing we're gonna figure about where ninety degrees is languages right up against the farm all right then just to make it easier because the hardest ball to get ad through this whole operation is this back head bolt because we actually have to turn it to a specific torque so we've got a five base deep 1/2 inch drive socket swivel socket so this way we can get in at an angle and we'll essentially going to set it up so that it will not only drop on but set the square in an accessible point and then we can figure out 90 degrees from there so at this stage of the game this is when it gets a little tough because now we're going to do the final 90 we've waited about 10 15 minutes we let things settle in on the first torque now with the additional 90 this is gonna bring you up to over one hundred foot-pounds of torque on an average so what you may need to do when it gets real tight and a cheater bar on to this we're going to see if we can go the full 90 without having to add it in this case I think what we're going to do is because 90 is gonna put us past the firewall we're gonna go 45 and then pull this back and reset it and do the additional 45 so that's essentially the procedure for installing ahead and torquing down on their head gaskets now we're just going to do passenger's side exact same process as we did on the driver's side so next step is gonna be to install the push rods in the rockers now what he did was we cleaned up these push rods you want to put them on a nice smooth surface you want to roll them just to make sure nothing is bent you also want to check both ends kind of run your thumb nail over it if you have a if you have an error you're gonna just catch a little step at the bottom but if it feels really rough or even sharp edge you want to replace that push rod so we have all 16 all cleaned up nice and we've got the lifters in place so we're going to go back over to that engine and set things up all right first things first and I've seen guys do this these lifters come in and out of here fairly easy look at that making sure your gonna put that in facing up and not that end I've seen it done they just got to basically wiggle it'll seat in place they're all pretty well oiled because they've been soaked and you're gonna get down through the hole and you're gonna set up all your push rods make sure you go through the guides there's little holes there in the head that guide the top of the push rod all right so we're gonna set the rocker in place now remember we're gonna make sure you've got here's your rounded area where your push rods are going to seat and of course the flatlands end up on the valves so we'll just set this gently in place you want to get the bolts lined up now you got to remember that right now you're going to have there's going to be some of these push rods or in the up position because the cam they're writing directly on the cam which is going to create spring pressure on the rocker arm so when we tighten this down we just want to go a little bit at a time until we seat the rocker down on the head and then we'll put the torque wrench on it and torque specs on these are 28 foot-pounds once we have the all these bolts seated and we're just going to use a ratchet and a socket to see them down then we'll torque up the specs so we got the rockers down in place the rocker shaft will actually the lands are seated on the head so now we don't have to worry about working against spring pressure the reason we did that was because you could possibly bend that rocker shaft if you could torque one end down and the other has spring pressure it actually creates a force that can bend them so now that they're seated we'll start in the middle we've got their torque wrench set at 28 foot-pounds do the two in the middle and then we go to the outside and we do it one more time just so that we know we have an even torque on all four bolts okay it's pretty much it so now we just do the same on the other side and we'll have our rockers and push rods in place so our next step is we're gonna put the lower intake manifold on to do so you're gonna grab the two end seals that come in your gasket set your Valley pan gasket and then of course the intake and basically what we've done is we clean this off so we get a nice smooth surface on both sides and you're gonna need a 3/8 drive torque wrench now you can use a long extension with a swivel end I just happen to have this tool just makes it a little bit easier this is essentially a 13 millimeter swivel on an already built onto the extension gasket scraper in case you need a final cleanup of course a ratchet extension on now this is a tool that's similar to what the factory calls for and it makes it a lot easier to get to the bolts once you get things in place to torque them up you're gonna put this on the torque wrench it's essentially a 13 millimeter 12 point with 3/8 drive can be referred to as a crow foot sometimes socket extension there's a number of different names for them but this does make the job a lot easier so what we do is start off is we're going to take some of the we'll take some of the high tack and we're going to put a little coating on both sides of the heads I don't recommend using RTV on the gasket surfaces but we are gonna use some to seal up where you've got a couple different components like where the head meets the block and where the front cover meets but mostly just the two areas that where the where the head meets the blocks you have four points so we've done that we're going to let that tack up a little bit and then essentially we're going to take some of the RTV now right here you can actually see a little valley right where the head meets the block what we want to do is we want to fill that with some RTV this will help prevent oil we Benji and we'll let that set up for a few minutes you might get a little tacky so you'll notice the end seals basically conformed to the block so one side is fairly straight the other has a curve to it and you'll see that in the gasket as well plus on the end here you have a little wedge that drops down into that area that we are TV so it's going to push some there now in the manual it tells you to reply just put one little beat of our TV but I usually do it twice down in that Valley and then I'll do it one more time over the top before we put the pan gasket on so we got the two end seals in place a little Dabba RTV again on the corners just to give a little extra missile BC just a little extra protection against an oil leak we're gonna set the pan in place or the bolt holes you can look straight down and we'll push that down into place the next are your to hold down plates now if you remember when we took this apart we put this aside so that the two bolts that hold these down they're a little different than the bolts that are in the rest of the bar so you want to make sure that you've put these aside so we're gonna very gently lower the intake sort of in place but just a little ahead so we can reach in the back and then you've got a fuel line I've got to go on then you want to make sure you hear that click once you got it on there now if you look at the ten bolts that go in this item are all the same length there are two long ones and they're gonna go in the front here and then once we get them all started we're going to torque them down now the factory calls for a sequence to start with seven foot-pounds then all the way around again in 13 foot-pounds and then a final tighten in a 38 most of your 3h drive torque wrenches are not going to get down to seven pounds so I usually set mine at ten and then I'll do 20 and then we do 38 all the way around and even then we'll let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and then go 38 one more time around just to make sure everything's torqued down nice and tight and the gaskets been compressed so just like we mentioned with the heads anytime you torque down a head or a manifold anything like that to reduce the amount of distortion we're going to start from the center and then work our way around into a spiraling outward pattern and so we've talked them all as I said we're gonna do in different come we'll do 10 20 and then 38 and then after the 38 we're going to wait about 10-15 minutes and then do 38 again just to make sure everything's down and tightened properly all right so before we put the valve covers on we have an actual bolt that goes up into the back of the head that runs through that bracket right there and what that does is holds the harness in place right about there so we need to attach that and then we also need to attach the ground strap and if you'll notice on this you'll see a green wire with a loop that's also going to go to that ground post all right so now is the point you definitely want to plug in this is for the crank sensor you're going to see the the tab right here that lot latches on to that little notch so essentially that's the wrong way that's the right way plugged this together you should hear a little click when that blocks in and then there's a bracket on the back that you're not going to be able to see this video that this hooks into to keep it from banging around in there this is a really bad connector to try to get to alright so next is gonna be your valve covers now first thing I do if you notice there's a rag sitting on top of the intake manifold we want to cover those holes you're going to be handling small bolts god forbid you drop one and it goes down they'll put one of those ports and fish it out you'll end up taking the intake back off to get at it so we put a rag over there as protection and then what we've done is we've prepped the valve covers we've shot high tech on the inside areas of both valve covers and on the areas of the gasket itself that will lay on the surface reason for that is that when it gets good and tacky we let it sit for about 15 minutes you put your gasket on the valve cover it's gonna stick and it's going to hold to it otherwise trying to hold on to that and keep it from falling in and unsettling is just a royal pain so this way gas gets stuck to the valve cover we run our bolts down we line it up so much easier now remember that these bolts are eight millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you pull that tool out and clean the bolts up a little bit just give him a little shoot down with some brake clean or whatever it's a little cleaner before you install alright so just as a note there's a groove cut on one side of the valve cover gasket and then one side is actually relatively flat except for one raised rib that's the area that's gonna make contact with the head so the groove the area actually seats all the way around in the valve cover make sure that all four your spacers are president they didn't drop out of the gasket and then we'll get them relatively close and then essentially put the four bolts in and remember you've got the two short on the inside part of the engine and the two long on the outside closer to the exhaust manifold so your passenger side first that has your oil fill tube now remember this is a Bosch engine where your fill tube is on the passenger side of course on a Jemez engine you're gonna find it on the driver's side no all we did was just basically hold up the wiring hard-ass sneak that in and then visually give a look at where the bolts line up and you can kind of wiggle it back and forth and you'll feel one of the little bolts kind of drop down in there what we're going to do is and we'll get them all started now the book says to torque to two and a half foot pounds you're gonna need a very small almost like a dial type quarter inch drive torque wrench if you want to torque it up it's two and a half pounds to do all four and then you go up to six pounds is the final torque on on all four bolts so one sides torqued in place and then simply we're just gonna do the exact same on the other side and before you started tightening bolts down because of all is wiring in one eye you just want to make sure you don't have a wire pinched between the valve cover and the head anywhere in the front or the back will lead the problems later on down the line so same thing with this side we've got some wires hanging around so we want to make sure that we don't get them we don't get them caught up in the valve cover and it's pretty much to it on those alright so they would have the valve covers in place we got the lower intake in place at this point we can grab the main harnesses we can kind of set them in place now in most cases when you when you first took this apart you had basically tie straps that went into these these four locations so of course they get brittle they fall apart you try to open them up they break so you can do it one of two ways you can actually wire tie it directly just loop under and wire tie it or I know a lot of automotive centers have the wire ties with what they call a little Christmas tree attached to them and that Christmas tree will pop right into those holes and wire tie the harness in place and that's what we're going to do with this but this way at least pull the harness out you'll also notice that there is one more green wire on this now if you have like a 2001 and later you probably aren't going to find these green wires this isn't this was a I think this was also this was a 2000 but you've seen this on the early disco twos don't see it so much on the later so if you don't see the green wires don't panic it's not that they're missing that just on that particularly design they're not used so don't worry about that rest of it this harness will get down the side of the bracket what we're really thinking about right now is we're going to put the main harness back in this place and then we're gonna plug in all the injectors and then this small bolt right here on the fuel rail is going to be the bolt we're gonna run out and then we're gonna attach that green wire right here for that round idle air control the one wire you want to be concerned with this wires for the knock sensor this is going to run all the way down and underneath you just want to make sure we get that down there because once we get the bracket and the alternator in place or I'm sorry the power steering pump in place we don't want to pinch that wire we want to make sure we put that in a good spot all right bingo okay that's good for now and then as we go along we'll be plugging everything else in all right so at this point now we're back underneath the vehicle we've got to get a few things connected yet now that one harness that has the lead for the starter the starter wire and for the knock sensor on the right hand side we got to sneak that through a hall that is on the upper back side of the mount so that it comes through to just above the starter so you got here's the end of your started connection this is going to go on to this nut here there's a small Spade pushing right on that right over the top of this stud and nut that's your for your s wire that'll be this lead right here and then you also have your connector that you're going to push in you're going to click into your knock sensor right here then once we've done that then we can sneak the heatshield in there and get that popped in place before we put the exhaust on so getting the shield back up in there sort of a bit of a magic trick this bracket tucked up into the all right you know we work on trying to get there's a tab on the end of this that drops into a hole which will help line up just kind of working back and forth until we find it there we go all right and that puts that in place so if you have a mirror what you can do is actually look up inside the mount the see if the holes lined up or not once we determine it isn't it or it isn't turn it the way we need to turn it to get it to line up all right so this is what the finished product should look like this clip is locked around the solenoid your wiring is protected from the heat from the heat shield and then the front bolt is in and locked in place so this is good and solid not going anywhere so now we just quickly we're gonna look through the other side and here we have the other knock sensor we've plugged that in and you'll notice that this loop lines right up with this hole right here and so what we're going to do is go find a bolt put the bolt in there and then that will lock that one piece of wire right there in place so keep it secure and then we can put the exhaust back up in place so now we're ready to put the exhaust up in place we've got to get your to hold gasket up in there and usually can push it up in place I always like to start on the driver's side and leaves me some flexibility on the passenger side we're not gonna run the nuts up tight initially we just want to get them up in place and then the front part is essentially getting up in there to get the gasket on this is actually sometimes a little easier from up top it says we're just gonna lay the gasket right over the opening we'll line up the holes all right so we're gonna hook the exhaust stop we find it's a lot easier to get to this passenger side setup then from underneath because you got the driveshaft and everything else in a way so we're just gonna sneak down in there then we're gonna slide the gasket up over the studs so we can raise that up and it's gonna take a little take a little doing but it will go and we got one two and three and then you can just raise the exhaust up you have to reach down in pull up on the exhaust and slide the studs over with one arm hold it up and the other we're gonna just put one nut on to help support it all right so we've got that side hooked up basically just got the three bolts and I just want to make note don't forget now's a good time to plug in that o2 sensor and then tuck the wire in back behind the right side head and it'll keep it out of the way the exhaust well it's just to give you a shot what we've done on the passenger's side you're going to leave the nuts loose you got allow for some slack and now we're going to pop the driver's side on all right so basically at this point now we've got the six nuts in on the exhaust we're going to run them up we got them completely tight as far as torque specs because of the long extension you need to get up there a torque wrench isn't going to be accurate anyway so you just want to essentially just get them good and tight and then don't forget to plug in your o2 sensor connector on the driver's side and we're going to tuck that back in behind the bracket so next what we're going to do is we'll get these transmission coolant lines back up in place gonna have to do a little don't be a little pushing in pollen but we essentially need to twist it get this one up into this upper clip the lower one into the lower clip and then we'll show you where the other one goes alright so we're gonna install the bracket now that supports the AC compressor and the steering pump you want to make sure if you have an oil cooler equipped vehicle you want to make sure that the one line for the oil cooler underneath is back in behind the bracket also your wire going down to your your knock sensor you want to make sure that's clear and then basically you're going to set it up on that stud that's on the front of the head and that's going to come through this hole right in top of the power steering pump and we just slide that again double-check your wire make sure it's not pinched in there and we'll put the put the top bolt on you'll feel the thread they line right up alright so we'll put the other two bolts on and then we have the nut that goes on the sword and the single bolt up top and then we're just gonna run those in tight just quickly before I run them in just to show you where the bolts out where the locations are the nut and the single bolt up top this is a ten millimeter head these are all going to be thirteen and just going to set them up good and tight okay one thing I'm going to mention about this oil cooler the one line that we snuck in behind the bracket obviously attaches down underneath and gets locked down but to put it in the right position what we're going to need to do is we've we don't want to set it up on this bracket right away we're gonna leave this off we got to get underneath we're gonna essentially put the other end of the tube up into its location by the filter leave that nut loose then get back up in here set the bolt up in this so now the hose is in its proper position there's no tension on any of the parts and then we go back down torque the the nut that secures it to the oil filter housing and then back up to tighten this one alright so what we're going to do next is we're gonna hook up the upper this is the lines for the heater hoses for your heating system I'm gonna move that out of the way and then put a little replace this whole ring and then put a little Vaseline on there so it slips in this way it won't pinch it as we go in it's kind of a tight fit alright so next I'm gonna show it's already connected but just to remind you we're gonna connect you got this you got a black connector here and that's going to go to the cam sensor don't forget it because it's kind of out of sight so underneath the water pump and you don't see it so you don't want to forget connecting that you're going to need that so you can start the vehicle then you also got your oil pressure center right here we've connected those and now what we're going to do is put the other line on for the oil cooler don't forget gotta make sure you put your you put your new o-ring on make sure that can spin all right so now I'll show you we put the lower hose in place you have the one down tube goes into the small opening the long neck is what attaches to the water pump and then the short loop this goes to the angled upward outlet of the thermostat okay just so you have a note top of the thermostat has two outlets you have one that goes up at an angle and one that comes straight up the one at an angle is what's going to get down to the lower hose this one's going to go to the upper hose we'll show you that when we get to that point so now we're just going to squeeze the clamp sign get those into place you can see we got our electrical connections in place and we have this hose in and now the upper hose this has got a short bolt that goes into the bottom and that's been installed and tightened up so then we're going to be ready to put that last bracket in alright so let's get that bracket down in place you can see we've got one two three four bolts that run through so here's the lower on the inside it's the easy one to see this way we can line that up and get that started and that'll make lining up the other three that much easier okay next is gonna be the cooling tube you can see we've got this torqued in place does this say hoses on we got some stuff here that eventually is going to get bolted to this bracket right now we just need to get these on so the tube essentially is tucked in right in the front of the intake manifold you've got an old ring on the back you want to make sure you put a new oil ring there we're going to put a little Vaseline on that and then just to get things started we'll put one bolt in there we'll need about a six or eight inch extension and a ten millimeter socket the reason we put this on after the brackets because there's a support bracket right here that bolts to the alternator support so you need that in place before you can put this tube in so now it's just a matter of we put that one bolt in there and then we're going to put one in the support bracket to support it alright so we put a bolt here in the support bracket so now this will just hold it in place and we can sneak in underneath and install these other bolts all right and now for the fun part in their infinite wisdom Land Rover puts the ignition coils buried back behind the upper plenum so in other words if we put the plan of mine you'd be almost impossible to put this on first off you can't even get to the bottom bolts once the plenum is in place and you can't really tighten them until you put the upper bolts in so what we normally do is we will lay this in place we'll put the two bottom bolts in and we're just gonna just snug them and then back them off just a little bit enough to give a little bit of movement the reason being is when we put the upper plenum on that has to slide underneath these holes so we've got to have some movement in there so that we can line them up and you were going to use the top bolts to secure this in place all right so we're gonna do we're going to drop this into place but before we go trying to put the bolts in place we have the two electrical connectors there's one and there's the other and each one of these gets plugged into each side this powers this side coil this powers this side and then basically one coil will power four cylinders and each coil pack has actually two individual coils built into it the other thing what we're gonna do is before we even grab those little bolts we're gonna put a rag over the top here because god forbid we dropped one down in the hole it will not be fun fishing it out all right so we got both the holes lined up we've got one started on one side now you can see these are hard to get at so if you put a little dab of our TV or you can even use grease and we're gonna do is put that on that socket and that's gonna hold that bolt so we can sneak it down in there location so we can get it started and then we're gonna do the same we did with the other one we'll run it down Snug it in and then just basically back it off about a half a turn just to allow enough slack so it'll wiggle so we can get those top bolts set alright so now we're gonna put the plug wires in now you'll notice most of the plug wire sets even after market for these are numbered you can see here's number one number three number five number seven so there's one three five seven two four six eight same thing on the other side so we're gonna just start plugging these in and what I do is I like to give a little shot a silicon in each one four one makes it go on easier adds a little extra protection to the boot and this way you feel the distinct set in when you put the boot on the plug you should actually kind of feel it click in just put that in your hold it right there and so that's seven threes number five it's gonna go in the middle right here I should hear that click then we'll just do the same thing to the other side alright so now we've got that all set up in the back we're gonna put the upper plenum on don't forget your steel gasket you've cleaned off the top surface of the lower manifold you have to raise dowels on here that are gonna basically give you the right location that's going to hold the gasket in place and then the manifold we self is gonna click on to those as well now if you get one it's a little stubborn we just put a socket over it now what we're gonna do is we're gonna set the manifold in place let's pull this up because we're gonna need this this will go on your idle air control motor because of the way this is set up when we put the plenum on we're gonna need to lift the front it's going to drop in we line it up with the front dowel lower it down and then lock it on to that dowel and then from there once we lock once we put the bolts in and lock down the upper plenum then we have to reach in the back and line up these two holes and run two bolts down through and this will actually bolt to the back of the upper plenum alright so now we're ready to put the upper plenum on we've taken the studs out of the sides and you can either put the studs back in after you put this in place or you can just get some six millimeter bolts three-quarters of an inch long and they'll work just as well so by doing that though it gives us a little more freedom to move this around and get it in place essentially what you're going to be doing is on the back the manifold you have these two bosses that come out these are the two bolt holes for the bolts that hold the top of the coil that goes over the top of this so what we're gonna do is go in in an angle and then drop it down and then move it so that we it drops on to the two locating dowels and once that's in place then it's just put the bolts in and lock them down and what I've done to is to save a little time you can bend this back out of the way here's the single bolt that we left in the manifold when we took this apart so we can just leave it in there and then of course it's going to go in in this position so I remember you've got a sink also a single bolt in the back and a single bolt in the front beside the three long ones that you're going to torque down so now it's just a matter of set this in place you may need a flashlight when you can see what you're doing is simply gonna walk this back slowly you can actually see how everything lines up all right so we've got our hardware right here take our three bolts drop those in and if you can't quite get your fingers in these front and back bolts what I've used is a tool and I'll show you in a second is a tool that called expanding fingers and it will grab around the head bolt and you can actually run it down spin it in and then come in with a socket extension a ratchet to torque it down all right so you can see what the tool does it'll actually hold the bolt on the end it gives you access to do a deeper area right here and you just run your finger down through the feel for the hole and by grabbing the head of the bolt you can actually use the tool to spin it in until you feel it seat down and we'll just do the rest with the socket and we'll do the same with the front bolt sleep in there yeah all right all right so we'll get a 10-millimeter socket extension ratchet and we'll torque those down all right so there is no torque spec listening and Land Rover's overhaul manual specifically for these bolts they have a general a general chart eight millimeter bolts they recommended torque to 13 foot-pounds I think that's a little bit on the loose side I don't have an exact torque spec to recommend but you see what I essentially do is run them until they're snug and then just give them just a little twist just to add some tension let them sit for a couple seconds and then go back and start from the middle and just will go around twice just to make sure everything is tight and even all right so now at this point we have this torque down now's a good time what we're gonna do is we're gonna connect the throttle body heater hoses remember we have this long one over here this is gonna go across because once you put your alternator and your AC compressor back in it's kind of tough to get them in there so I'll do those then you also have your PCV breather hose right here that's gonna go onto this spigot you want to check this black this black spigot or nipple on those because these have a tendency to loosen up so you want to make sure you snug that in you don't want any vacuum leaks there and of course plug in this is the vacuum line over to your brake booster you're gonna plug that in and then what you have right here is the one heater hose that has the hole for a bolt or where the stud was through the side you want to reattach that and then your other heater hose tube or lay up over the top we're gonna put a new bolt in there so that's essentially we're just gonna hook up all the in celery's we've also got for your emission controls you have your your control solenoid here this is going to plug into the throttle body and then your connector for your idle air motor so all that gets connected to this upper plenum and then we can go on to the next step the first one and the fun part is getting those two bolts for the coil to the manifold lined up because you're essentially going to do that by feel what you can do is you can move this big harness a little more out of the way so you can get your hand down in there and the rest is pretty much done by feel and this is why we leave the bottom bolts a little loose on that coil mount so that we can rock this back and forth and eventually get the hole lined up and get the bolt started yeah take a little patience a little time but you'll get it all right so here's a good example you find yourself having a hard time getting that ball lined up if you can get up like I have an expanding mirror that I can use in the back any mural work but what you can do that is angle it down so you can get a look at why you're not able to line up and you'll see like on this one what we've got to do is be able to move that bracket forward and we don't I didn't quite leave it loose enough on the bottom to do that so what we do is we take a little pry bar and then we just just gently move it back a little bit and now we know we can see the holes are lined up put a bolt in there get that lock down all right and then what we're gonna do next is put the throttle and the cruise control cable hook up on here because these two bolts at least one of them is sort of covered by the AC compressor so we're gonna put that off this way the whole upper plenum is all together by the time we're ready to put our two-inch hilary's on and our idler pulleys so you got two eight millimeter head bolts here I'll hook up that bracket we just sort of snug it and what you'll need to do is go to full open throttle you'll see a little slot in the top there slide the barrel in and then line up the slot to pop it fully in place just to make sure it's in there completely you know so you should be able to swivel that little barrel in there so then you know you're in properly and then the same thing with the cruise control slide that over so it lines up with the groove all right you should just have some slight tension on it should have just a little bit of free play on that not much and I will just get up millimeter socket tighten that up and we'll have everything together on the plane all right so just a quick review on the upper plenum because we want to make sure so we've tightened down the four bolts up top one in the back one one in the front for a total of six you have your connection here for your idle air motor you have your connection here for your admission control this is for the evap system this is the OP the purge valve so you have your electrical connection and then you have your hose connection right here this is just a pop in your breather hose and your throttle position sensor you've got your connector up in here so we're we're good there your two heater hoses to the throttle body heater and they're on nice and snug and they're in the back and then of course your two bolts and then we just showed you how to put the throttle cables on and we'll go around to the other side and we'll do a quick review on that all right and then on the passenger side course we have our the breather hoses connected and this clamp is on we've plugged in our vacuum line that feeds our brake vacuum booster our two heater hoses we have the Bolton on top that locks the two brackets so the hoses the metal hoses together along with the single bolt down now I'm going to make a note on this that on these engines without secondary air there's a spacer that goes between this hose bracket and the upper plenum and you would have found that when you took it off sometimes after these vehicles that they've been worked on once before somebody didn't put that spacer back in just a couple flat washers works just fine so that's in place and then of course everything else lines up here now you'll see two and this is kind of a neat trick you can actually take a razor knife and cut this rubber connector for these two hoses though you don't need to all right but just a note and then what we're gonna do then is you can see we have some exposed wire down here that I really don't like we're gonna get some plastic convolute to go over the top of that before we attach everything to this bracket and then we're ready to put the AC compressor and the alternator on alright so next step was what we're gonna do we're gonna tie in the heater hose you have there's actually a threaded hole behind this opening that's going to bolt and support this line up against the alternator mounting bracket and then you see you got two little brackets right here what you're going to want to use is this is a tie strap with what they call a Christmas tree on the end of it so you can wrap it around the wiring here and then plug the Christmas tree into that and that'll basically hold this up in here now as you just can see the old cover has starting to fall is falling off on this leaving the wire insulation exposed you see this piece right here I've installed just to cover up the wiring there we're gonna do the same with this we're gonna replace that convolute like I said you can buy that in any automotive center and then you've got your ground wire right here and that's going to be bolted right in this position from the front there's a threaded hole on the front of the bracket so then that'll get this all set so then the next step will be both the alternator and the AC compressor so just to give you a little overall look what we have is so you're our ground line is attached here our bracket that comes off of this hose is attached here we replaced convolute over the exposed wiring and then we've taken the wire ties with the Christmas trees and put them in place so that everything is essentially in its place so now we're ready to put the alternator on so alternator mounts on this bracket and what you have are these sliding shoes basically that are used to install the alternator and what they do is they actually slide within the bracket most cases once you've taken the alternator out and pried it out this one's already back in place this one you can I'll show you see how it hangs out leaves and area there you take your hammer and open up the space so the alternator will just drop in when you tighten it up it pulls those shoes in and locks everything in place and the only two wires that you need to attach are going to be your battery feed cable and then your field wire and you can see essentially just on the back of the alternator you've only got two positions so it's kind of hard to get it wrong and the alternator obviously is going to set in this position so we're gonna hook our wiring up first and then we're gonna set the alternator in there and then just as a tip there's a lot of hardware put aside on this and there's a lot of bigger bolts as we get towards the end as far as the hanging brackets the plainer why not you'll notice that the two alternator bolts have this goldish tone they're an anodized bolt so if you're not quite sure what bolts go on the alternator look for this gold-tone on the shaft and the size of the bolt and then those will be the correct ones for the alternator so next is gonna be the AC compressor and as you can see basically you just have four bolts up top there is a locating dial here which will help you to get it set up and located now as you remember we didn't have to disconnect the AC lines this is just been sitting here waiting for us to put it back together and what I normally do is before you slide the sign you got this back left-hand corner bolt always put that on first cuz what's gonna happen is when you get the compressor here in line you're not going to be able to install this bolt because the throttle linkage is going to be in a way so before you set it in grab one your alternator bolts and it'll actually help you line up a little better because that will locate in the back hole and then you've got your dowel in the front and now we'll just drop our three remaining bolts in this one will obviously have to put in tighten up with a wrench the other three if you have compressed air you can run it in with that or just do all them with a socket and a ratchet all right so now we're gonna start putting the pulleys on so we can get the belt on now one thing we did notice when we got into it this the original tensioner was binding up the to bet the two idlers one of them felt kind of rough so we actually offered this kit we can get both the idler pulleys and the tensioner if you're gonna put a new motor in you don't need any future problems for the low-cost that you can get this kit for it's well worth putting in you don't have to deal with the belt problem so what we're going to do then is we're going to install these and then we've got to put the water pump pulley on and the power steering pump which is just a matter of flying up the pulleys put your bolts in and tighten them up but just so you know you'll see that the two idlers are of different sizes the smaller pulley is going to be mounted here so you're going to want to put the tensioner on first and then the small pulley and then your large pulley is going to be located right here and then at that point we'll put the other two on alright so here's what the pulleys look like installed like I said small and on the bottom big one up top and then you want to give a little test spin just to make sure they're seated properly ok so spins got a little bit of resistance which is good that's a nice tight bearing and then the tensioner and then you always want to look in the back and make sure that the back of this is seated flat there's a locating pin that drops in so you're gonna slide that pin in to the hole in the back side of the bracket and then just move this up until your bolt drops in tighten it up and you're good alright so next is going to be water pump pulley and power steering pulley alright before you put the power steering pulley on and I've seen it done because it can be mounted in either direction so what you're going to do is basically look at the pulley and you're going to see the imprint of the I guess I would call the triangle of the pyramid which is the surface that's going to ride on the pond the pump itself you'll see the imprint on one side on the other you won't so obviously then this is the proper side to install against the power steering pump there is a difference in the offset so if you do install it backwards the belts not gonna line up right so you want to make sure you see that imprint and then on the water pump pulley you will see where there are marks on the ball holes where the original bolts went so you just want to reuse those because this way you know everything's gonna line up right so on the water pump pulley what I like to do is I'll turn this so that I've got one threaded hole straight up so I have an orientation because once I go to slide the pulley over I can't see those we'll set that bolt right in place and it's sort of lining up and you just roll it around a little bit to let bolt lines right up slight this up over the hub put the other two on now these don't require a great amount of torque and you can actually when you go to tighten these you can actually get your hand wrapped around that pulley and be able to tighten it again look for the tripod point that straight up it aligns itself right up alright so then we just put the last remaining two bolts in and then we get everything tightened up all right so now comes the fun part we're gonna put the belt on if you didn't take a picture before he took it apart to give you an idea of how its routed this is the best way to go about it we're gonna phone basically the belt like so and we've done a sag or a loop in the center and that loop is going to go around the power steering pulley okay then we're gonna go up and over the AC compressor and we're gonna go up and over the alternator around the tensioner and at this point we're not gonna worry about that little pulley and you'll see why in a minute then we're going under that made the steering too damp the crankshaft pulley up and over power steering pulley and around this larger idler yeah some things you got a slight go to get up so what that essentially does gets everything in place now of course rib side of the belt will always be on the ribs pulleys so you have alternator AC compressor power steering pump lower deeper and tension or old ribs so you should have rib sight on there now what we do is we take our wrench now this is a different size than the original with this kit they originally you'd have a 15 millimeter here but they have stepped up to a 16 millimeter put that up and won't push it down we're simply gonna just give us enough room to slide that belt up and over the little pulley and then before you take all let allow all the tension on there just a quick feel to make sure that the belt is fully seated and all the other pulleys wet up and there you are belts in place so next step then is going to be putting the fan shroud and the fan on and your upper radiator hose alright so very important we don't want to forget the dipstick now these use a very high vacuum PCV system as well as the emission control is also incorporated on there so literally any vacuum leak can create a drivability issue on these so when I put the dipstick in we're gonna actually run a bead of black RTV right around the base of this neural this is what seats down on the block where when we insert this and this way by the time we actually get to the point where we're ready to start it this will be pretty well be setup so we know we got a good seal so that's really all we're gonna do is throw a little little black RTV on that take our finger and just run around about the thickness of that raised area tick-tick-tick to and then we're just gonna basically slide it right down the hole see your hole right there now slide right in and then you have a threaded hole right here on the side of the valve cover and you flip this up this is going to line right up with it there and then once we run that screw in there let that our TV set up we'll be all set and then we can actually put our dipstick right inside the tube all right and of course you want to plug in your AC compressor and that's your great plug connector right here you push that into you hear the click and just put this down where it's really not rubbing against anything too severely and then we just have the one wire here for the mass air flow sensor we'll put that to the side all right so now what we're going to do is we're going to put the lower shroud in for the fan there are just bay there's two clips that attach on the bottom and then two Phillips screws on each side here then they're gonna hold that lock that down and then the fan and then the upper shroud and then the actually it's going to be the lower shroud the fan and we're going to do the radiator hose one thing I want to mention on these lay the thermostat if you taking a good look right here top of the thermostat has two outlets one goes off at about a forty degree angle one points straight up they're both the same size and I have seen where somebody could actually install it with this reversed which will actually cause an overheating problem so you want to make sure that the angled outlet goes to the lower hose which goes down to the water pump and the straight up is going to go to the upper radiator hose which also attaches here and here but just keep that note so the angle to the water pump straight up to the upper radiator all right so we put our Stroud we got two Phillips screws grab the bottom we pull out make sure that those tabs on the bottom if holding it in place and we just slide the fan in and we try to get it as square as possible you do I do it just the back of my hand up against the front of the fan clutch and if you just work it real slow eventually you'll hit a spot where it'll feel like the threads will catch and then from there you can just spin it on all right so I've put the upper hose in place but I want to show you basically how it looks should look when it's installed your so you have your bleeder cap right here your joined here at that front tube upper radiator and then of course down on the thermostat clamps are in place and you want to make sure you can feel that bulb that little bulge at the end of the nipples that you attach these to and they're there so that with the clamp behind it there's no chance of it coming off it's just a little security measure they built into these so you would just want to make sure the clamp is below or behind that bulge so that you know you've got it in a proper position all right so essentially we're ready at this point we've gotta just put the top cover on which is four screws that only turn the eternal 90 degrees in there in and then we'll put the air filter in the hose in and then we can put on our final colon line which is the overflow or the vent line that goes across into the expansion tank okay actually we're gonna do is we're going to put this the vent blind on now because this cover actually goes over the top of it you see these two raised areas right here actually is the channel that this is gonna rest in kind of acts as a sort of a support we just push that on there what I would suggest is if this host feels brittle at all nodes if you can't take it and flex it like that it feels like it's gonna crack and split replace it because more unlikely it's exactly what it's going to do very soon and you certainly don't want to risk your your new engine and all your work on a relatively inexpensive hose same thing were there anything else wearable on the engine if you're gonna put the time and money put a new engine on if the old hoses feel dried out put new hoses on it I've done that with every engine I've put in new hoses new belt anything basically rubber and flexible it's not worth the risk it's worth a little extra money for the security of knowing you've got a good system in there so it around a little bit so it lines up you see the cutout on the side there's for that hose you got one hop and just turn 90 degrees and you'll actually feel the screw come to a stop when it seats in there we go and just squeeze that upper hose a little bit and pop that right in place we're pretty much assembled there and now we just need to hook up the intake tube and the air filter assembly right just to make it easier now Chris the air filter you pulled it out so you get the idea it's basically a pop in I like to do is I shoot a little silicone spray on those rubber rubber sets that that goes into it just
When the rear brake backing plate starts to rot where the pins for the parking brake shoes are retained, it is important to replace this item to avoid further damage to your braking system. With our NEW Split Shell Design, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explains the process involved in replacing the rear brake backing plates for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged, LR3 or LR4. Our money-saving
kit # PARKBRAKIT02 includes the left and right brake backing plates and connecting hardware, and parking brake shoes. What makes this rear brake backing plate kit special from the original is the new split shell two-piece design we use. With the original design, to access to replace you must disassemble part of the rear suspension, etc., which could involve damaging some components (through removal). You will avoid this with our kit at installation, since we work around those components. In this video, you will also see Doug remove and re-install the parking brake shoes and connect cable. tech support rep here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about backing plates and specifically backing plates for the 2006 to 09 Sport. Both the naturally aspirated and the supercharged. 2010 to 2013 naturally aspirated 5 liter LR3 and LR4. And you probably most people might recognize these. These backing plates sit just ahead of the and behind the rotor, your disc brake rotor, designed to keep rocks and splash and whatnot from getting all over the brakes. Again they're not water tight but they're there to serve a purpose. So what can happen is in areas that use a lot of salt on the roads or if you're on a shore area by salt water over a period of time these backing plates can deteriorate and this is a perfect example. This is off of an 06 Sport. Now not only are these there as a splash shield but they're also the support and the mounting area for the parking brakes. So it's critical that we maintain these to keep the parking brakes working properly. So I'll get you rid of that. So the issue is that when you go to change these that most of these vehicles are designed so that you can't get the backing plate off unless you pull the rear hub, which in most cases you're going to destroy the bearing and if you destroy the bearing you got to press that on and off which means taking the knuckle assembly off the back of the vehicle which means trying to get those two bolts for the upper and lower ball joint out which are usually frozen in place and it just turns it into a huge job. So what we've done to get around that is we've come up with a two-piece backing plate. You have metal brackets here that line up that you can install these without having to take the hub off and then set these in place. You'll have the three bolts that hold the plate naturally as it is as designed plus the two additional plates to hold everything together and keep it aligned. You'll end up with a good solid setup. And you can apply the parking brakes on these. So this is essentially what you would receive is the two rear backing plates both left and right hand side, the hardware needed to bolt the plates to that. Eerything else you're going to use the old hardware on. So stay tuned. We're gonna show you how to install them. All right. In addition to rotted backing plates a real known issue on this parking brake assembly is for the shoes to come apart or one of the springs to rot out and let go and you're probably going to find once you get the rotors off and you get a good look at it more than likely you're gonna need a replacement of those shoes. So just wanted to show you the kit that we've put together where we have the four parking brake shoes. You have two on each side. One on each side has the lever that it connects to the parking brake cable and then you also have your adjustment mechanism. And then essentially your replacement springs this would be the spring around the parking brake cable. We'll show you how to install that and then the upper and lower spring for the shoes. So reasonably a pretty basic setup and then of course you're gonna reuse the old adjustment knob for the bottom. In case that got damaged that's available as a separate part as well as long as well as the crossbar that goes from shoe to shoe. And generally those aren't damaged. They're usually in pretty good shape and you can reuse those. Should you need them though they are available. So to show you what happens we actually take one of our, this is one of our vehicles, this is an 06 Sport and the driver had noticed the loud grinding noise from the back and when we got into inspecting it to find what the noise or the source of the noise was it turns out our back end plates are all rotted out to the point where they've moved in, they're rubbing against the rust ridge on the outside of the rotor. You've got literally holes right through there so as a splash shield they become basically useless. And on the other side it became so weak that the front half of it actually folded in and created an opening. So this is how bad they can get and like I say we're in the New York area. You're gonna see this basically in any state that lays heavy salt in the wintertime, calcium chloride or if you live along a shore anywhere along the east or west shorelines, you're gonna have the salt air and it's going to do the same thing. So that's some pretty bad shape. So let's show you how to get those replaced. Alright so first to start this what I usually like to do is I want to compress the piston in the caliper so that I can take the caliper off easily and that we do by just inserting this onto the backside of the rotor and up against the caliper body. Not against the mount. And then we're just go to very easily and you can see it's starting to move we're just gonna bring back pressure until that seats the piston. And once you get about half way you can knock this in, get in behind that inboard pad and you feel it move it a little bit easier. And you'll feel it seek better too. And we'll just keep coming back can we get some room there. Before we start taking the caliper apart we're going to shoot a little penetrating oil in there because we have the, we're doing the right side, the pad sensor is right here so you pull off the cover for the bleeder screw. And lift that wire out of there. What we're gonna simply do is grab the 90 degree Bend on there very gently with a pair of pliers. We're just gonna work that back and forth. We're just gonna wobble that. And then start to pull as we wobble and you'll see you get a little bit more play, a little bit more play. And then we finally get it out of it. We don't want to break this because then you got to replace the sensor all the way up in it. Now there's a little brass loop that goes around the bottom of the sensor. You want to make sure you got that out of there because you don't want to lose that. That's what holds it. Now in this case it stayed in the sensor so we're good there. So now we can take the two bolts on top and bottom of the caliper. We're going to unbolt the caliper set it on top of the control arm and then we can get to the actual caliper mount which we need to move out of the way so we can get the rotor off. All right so this is a note - the bolts are a 13 millimeter head so I like to use a ratcheting box wrench but to keep that inner post from spinning so you can take the nut out that uses a 15 millimeter. You're gonna need a thin wrench. I use this style but you can if you have a an aftermarket wrench it's a little thinner than this, then the heavier Mac or the snap-on's you might be able to sneak that in there but the skinny wrenches work really well. This one in particular is a snap-on and it sneaks in there and it's able to take the torque pretty darn well. Alright so just as a note those bolts that we took out of the back of the caliper the 13 millimeter head you need a 15 millimeter opening wrench to hold these back posts. Once you got the caliper off you're good idea to check to make sure that the two posts are free that they spin they move in and out and then what we're going to now to do is take the caliper mount off and that uses a 15 millimeter 12-point. It's got a 12-point headed bolt on it. You're not going to be able to get a six-point on it. So I like using the proper size socket and then half inch drive so you get more leverage. You might have a hard time trying to get these off with a 3/8 drive. You want the extra length. You want the happiness. There we go. All right so with the caliper out of the way the next step is going to be we're going to get the rotor off. First thing we'll do is we'll spin this around until we can actually see the little neural adjuster. They'll be on opposite sides so like on the right side you'll find it on the bottom left side of vehicle you'll find it up top. You have a little opening here that you can use to get a screwdriver in and adjust it back and then normally there'll be a little plastic plug right here. In this case the plug fell out. You can just take a small straight blade screwdriver, a little penknife or something that just pops right out of there. So once you've adjusted it down and you'll be able to tell if obviously if you turn it the wrong direction it will reach a point where you can't turn the rotor so you're going to go in the opposite direction until it's fully seated and backed off and then we've got to take the locating bolt out of there. Now that's a number 45 Torx which you could probably try to remove with just a three-eighths breaker bar in a socket. But in this case I like using the little handheld impact because it knocks them loose. Especially when they've been in there for a long period of time. If you have access to one it's a tool that's been around for as long as I can remember. We used to use it a lot on motorcycles but comes in very handy on these as well. All right and now we take the rotor off. In this case you're gonna find it's locked right onto the hub so we just take that hammer. Right in the hub area. Isn't so sharp. And you'll hear when it breaks loose. All of a sudden the sound isn't so sharp. It becomes a dull thud. And we'll just work that out. So, we have the shoes exposed now we're down to the parking brake assembly. First thing we're going to do is we're gonna take these springs out now what this is is basically a fold over spring so that it's outward tension is going to hold up against the head of this pin. This pin just floats in there. So the easiest way is just to insert a screwdriver. You want to push in to compress that spring a little bit and then keep working it back and forth until that pin pops out. Okay so that's essentially what your spring looks like. They're a lot easier getting out than they are going in. So there's one, a little bit, do the same with this - push in and twist. We'll push those pins in a little bit. Get them out of the way. It's essentially the retainer pin and we'll probably want to replace that. If they're really badly corroded you're going to take alot of this out anyway. Might as well replace it, get some new springs in there. Then what you have at the bottom is the adjuster knurled this is what we turned to be able to compress the shoes to make room so we could get the rotor off. So now we'll just take the same screwdriver and spread the shoes. Okay so that's your, and that's your adjuster and you can see you got slots on both sides. That's where the shoe actually seats in. Then we remove the bottom spring. Just grab a pair of pliers. Pull the spring out of there. If you pull a spring out and the feels really crusty and crunches when you twist it back and forth it's a good chance, might as well replace that as well we have kits available where you can get all the retainer springs. So at this point what we're going to try to do then is we're going to spread the bottom of these shoes out wider than the hub and then turn them to the side and we should be able to remove that out of there. You'll see on the backside there's the end of your parking brake cable. This is the cable that's going to run into your electronic parking brake module which is up over the rear axle. Now this essentially has a little lock out on it so what we're going to do is we can push in and then we can flip that down so that we can sneak the cable out of there. Let's give it a little persuasion with a pair of pliers. And the spring hooks on that. So essentially there's your shoes. This is all gonna come off one assembly. So now we got the parking brakes, the shoes out of the way the parking brake assembly, we'll sneaked in here. We want to get our spreader out of the way. And again you can see springs kind of in rough shape. Yeah we definitely would want to put a new kit in this before we put it back together. So then we have the cable to deal with and the spring hooks into the backing plate here which we can remove with that. When we take the cable off this cable will just sneak right down through the middle. On the backside of this there is a large plastic nut that holds the cable in place. Normally you can take the same pair of pliers. They usually don't prefer to put a wrench on it because half the time the wrench just rounds it out. So in this case we're gonna just work it back and forth. This one's a little tight. The thing we're gonna do is we'll put a little penetrating oil on this. Let it sit for about 10 or 15 minutes and then we'll get back to it. All right. Just so you can get a visual on this here's the end of the parking brake cable and this is basically the retainer nut that you're going to take off. This is plastic so you want to be a little careful and work it slowly. You don't want to break it if you break the plastic now you got to replace the cable. So just quickly before we show you the installation of the backing plates. What you'll see here is you'll notice the old backing plate is gone. To remove it is relatively simple. There is one, two and three bolts that hold that backing plate to the knuckle assembly and they have a 30, a number 30 Torx drive head on them. The top one very easy to get at. The two you'll notice they're actually behind the hub but if you get an extended driver you can actually put it right through the one hole in the hub and it lines right up with a bolt so you can take the bolt out. And they come out relatively easy give it a little tap if they're a little snug and they'll come right out. And then essentially you're gonna cut the old backing plate. Being it's rotted most times you can just break them out of there but if they're still solid piece left you can take a torch, cut off saw, hacksaw, whatever you have available and you're going to basically just cut that in two pieces so you can take it out. Now I will show you how the replacement goes in. Again we have our three bolts in hand. These are the three that we took out to take the old one out. You'll notice that here's your entry area for your parking brake cable. That kind of gives you a sort of an orientation point. When this closed up behind there. just kind of wiggle around a little bit until you get some openings and that goes up in place there. And the short piece up top. And what we're gonna do is we're gonna put the three bolts back in and you wanna make sure you get this set up - and one tab goes over the top. Then what we're going to do is we're going to put the three bolts in but we're gonna leave them a little bit loose and then we'll give us just a little bit of movement so that the bolts for the two retainer tabs that we added to these backing plates we're gonna line up well enough so you can put a bolt through and tighten that down. So we're gonna get that installed. Okay, so, just as described - we ran the three bolts in, we've installed the two small retainer bolts that go through the tabs, we've got the the locking style nuts on the backside so they won't back off and as you can see you got a good solid setup here. Now don't be concerned you have a gap here and that was from the cutting tool that basically separates these two. This is not a waterproof system, neither is the original okay. There are no seals or gaskets on this. The rotor just simply rides around a little baffle and literally when you're driving in the rain it gets all wet anyway so don't be concerned with this. This isn't going to mean a thing. So now we just need to install the parking brake cable and the park brake system and we're ready to put the back brakes on and we're basically got the worst part of it over and done with which is the installation of the backing plate. Alright so the next step is gonna be, we're gonna install the spring. We've got the cable slid through and the plastic nut on the back installed on there. I don't really need to show you how to do that. The spring itself you can see the last coil on the spring is slightly raised which is going to make it a little easy to install. The area that you're gonna install this on when you slide this over has a slight lip right on the edge of this open area here and we're gonna do is just you can take your thumbnail or a small straight bite screwdriver and just slide that first ring over the top and then just essentially spin the spring and it'll thread itself on. You just run it in there until you got about three or four of those coils mounted on that and that's pretty good. And then from this point we're ready to put the shoes on. What I wanted to do is just give you an idea orientation of the shoes when you go to install them. In the case of the lefthand side of course the cable comes in the bottom. The cable gets hooked to this arm. Essentially all it does is that, the end of the cable is inserted through here. There's a little sliding notch on the end there so that once you install the cable the end of that knob at the end of the cable itself passes through the knotch, pull it and it pulls this up and it's going to lock it in place and then of course you have that one little segment of that spring we just installed. It's going to loop around that hold that in place. So the arm goes on the backside of the shoe. Your larger spring is going to run across the top. Your adjustment bolt right there is going to face you and then for the orientation of the crossbar because you have a round hub here in the center, this hump in the crossbar obviously is going to face up and you have a double notch on one side. This will be on the side of the arm. So that this basically slides in like so and then this side with the spring sits in this notch right here. And that we're gonna do once we get the shoes over the hub, but I wanted to give you an idea of how you're gonna preassemble this before you go to put it together. Normally what you'll do at this point is we'll have the spring out. We're gonna hook the this shoe to the cable, then we hit the spring and then the other shoe we just take the whole thing and back right around the hub and install it. All right so just quickly before I go any further we've got the arm, the parking brake arm in place, I wanted to show you the orientation of the spring that basically comes up from underneath and you'll see that it makes a little 90-degree bend on the end and that sits right in a little notch that's cut in that retainer fork right behind the end of the cable. So just so you get an idea how that's supposed to sit when you're done. Alright so I've got the shoe in place. Basically all we did was just take the two shoes and spread them and put them right up over the, over the hub so and again look at your spring orientation. You see the crossbar or the cross piece here on the spring is down underneath this block. You don't want it rubbing up against the block. That's proper way for it to sit. So what I'm going to do now is I'm just going to sit this one shoe - I'm going to put the pin through and put the spring in and I would probably suggest as if this is your first time doing this wear safety glasses because these do have a tendency to pop off several times until you sort of get the knack on how to install them. So the pin goes in through the backing plate, goes through this slotted hole right here. There we go. All right. So this is the fun part. This is actually where a third pair of hands we definitely come in handy because you can't really compress the spring with your hands. It's just too much tension there. Alright at this point now what we've got there you got your crossbar. Now remember their orientation - the loop is basically going to be in conjunction with the hump of the hub. You want to probably do this with safety glasses. Generally I don't have a problem with these springs but now and then one may pop off and this is as I said. So let's do it this way. We're gonna slide this in here first. So that locks in. Let's put the spring back on there. And we need to lift that crossbar so it falls into that slot in the shoe. Okay here I heard everything snap into place and we're gonna line up with that hole in the back for the lockdown pin. Now the spring wants to pull the shoe away from the backing plate so we'll just install a, put a big screwdriver right here. Lock it, lock it it. That will sort of hold that from springing out while we're getting the rest of our parts. We're going to slide our pin in and that's going to go through this slotted hole right here. You want to set this up so that we've got this shoe as tight as possible up against the backing plate. There we go. Get the spring in underneath. You get some room and what you do is you put your fingers in the back and you're going to lift that, that pin so then as we compress the spring drop the pin in there to hold that and seat the head of the pin in the spring. Okay so now we got a crossbar in, we got our spring in place, now we're gonna do now at this point is install the bottom spring and the adjuster. Alright I showed you how to lock the springs in. We got the top spring in, the two clips. What we need to do now is we're going to spread the bottom. We're gonna install the small spring and the adjuster. Now just to give you a breakdown you've got one barrel on one side has the notch that's going to sit into the tab at the bottom of the shoe. The other side has the same thing. But I should be able to turn this piece here in here. So obviously this one is locked up so I'm gonna have a hard time adjusting it. So we're gonna soak this, we're going to clean it up, soak it down with penetrating oil. If yours is damaged or locked up to the point you can't turn it, again these parts are also available separately from the kit but they are available. So we're gonna free this up first before we install it. Alright so we're going to install the lower spring and see the two holes on each side on the bottom. Hold that up in there. Put this screwdriver, small pry bar, whatever you want to use, and we're gonna go up against the bottom of the shoe and we'll spread that out some so that we can install the adjuster and it doesn't matter which side you put this adjuster on. So you want to get that slot up in there, and then there and then we'll just turn this until it lines up and drops in. Just to double check. Okay and we're in. Just wanted before I put the rotor back on I want to show you a finished product of how the how these parking brake shoes should look when they're done. With your spring in place it's not over the front of this block its underneath. Crossbar. Spring is in place. The pins and then of course your adjuster and your retainer spring on the bottom. So adjusters should be all the way in so that the shoes are close together. I've got the shoes fairly well centered so now at this point we can put the rotor, on the retainer bolt and then do the adjustment on the parking brake. All right so we're gonna spin the rotor around so that your inspection hole lines up with the adjusting knob that we installed earlier, sits at the bottom of the shoes on this, and we're gonna turn this until it locks the rotor right up. Until we can't turn it and this just spins and you'll feel it start to tension up and you want to really give it, you really want to lock it in there. Take the same screwdriver and then we're gonna put it here. You can see we can't turn the wheel. So then we're now going to go back - now you can do this one of two ways. You can take a small little bit of chalk or some little paint or whatever and you can mark that knurl, that knob that we're spinning, and you're gonna go one full turn or what we'll do is we back it down 8th clicks. One. two. Three. Four. Five. Six. Seven. Eight. Which is the equivalent of one full turn. So we should be able to spin the rotor. You're gonna hear a very slight drag and then the other step to this is we're gonna line up with that little adjustment bolt that we talked about earlier. We can see that right in there and it's going to be a number five allen head. We're gonna install. We're gonna loosen that nut a little bit and they tell you just basically just tap on the rotor - it centers everything up. We'll lock it back down and then our adjustment will be done. So we've done our adjustment and then last but not least don't forget your little inspection plug. That just keeps the excess and like I said earlier this is not a waterproof system. This little plug isn't gonna keep all the water and dirt out but it is there just to keep out major debris. So now we have our shoes installed, the rotor is on. Now is just a matter of get our brakes back together and we're ready to go. All right so at this point we're gonna put the brakes on and you may or may not be replacing your brakes when you take it apart so what we're gonna do is we're actually going to replace the rear brakes on this while we have this going. So first thing you want to do before you put your caliper mount back on make sure that the pins that you support the caliper bolt to you want to make sure those are nice and free and that they move in and out. The pads do come with the zinc sliders so we've got those popped in place. Now the pads I'll do a quick explanation. You're going to find that two pads have this paper backing, two pads do not. Normally we've always found that this one which has sort of an adhesive on it is going to be on the outside resting up against the two flat areas of the caliper. So just so you know when you pull it apart you know which pad to put. So without the adhesive on the inside, with the adhesive pad you're gonna peel that off before you install the caliper itself and that one gets run on the outside. So I'm just going to set this down in, run the two bolts in the back. Alright and last but not least we have the caliper itself. Now remember when we first pulled it out we had completely collapsed the piston so now we should be able to just install this over the the new pads and in the course of the doing the rather repairs and whatnot it may work its way out just a little bit so you can always squeeze that back in with a large pair of pliers. So here we have the outer pad with the paper removed so we have the sticky adhesive and it's not even really a strong adhesive and they just put it there to try to help eliminate squealing. So we'll slide our caliper over. We'll have to push our back pins in. I usually start with the top one because that's the easiest to get at and once you get that started it'll sort of line you up for the bottom one. And there'll be a little spring tension on. Pop that in. And you may need to wiggle it around a little bit to get the bolt seated in the threads. Give a few turns. Okay we're in place so all we need now is just our two wrenches and tighten those two bolts up. Alright so you've seen how to assemble the backing plates the parking brakes we've done the parking brake adjustment. We've got our pads in place, calipers back in place. All we need at this point is we put our wheel back on, take the vehicle for a drive. We'll get the brakes worn in just a little bit. But for the most part that's how you're gonna do an assembly and replace those rotted old backing plates. So when you're ready to do so just contact any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, Our Land Rover Master Technician, as he takes You step-by-step, in the replacement of the head gaskets on Our 2000 Discovery Series II with V8 BOSCH engine. We use our
kit # STC4082BKA which includes the head gasket set plus a set of head bolts. This is part 1 of 2 videos focusing on this topic. Part 1 shows the teardown and part 2 is the re-installation. We also cover replacement of the Discovery Series II short block engine. I'm Doug your tech support representative here at Atlantic British in this video we're gonna touch on something that we've had a lot of requests for in the past that's a fairly common issue with some of these older 401 4 sixes and that's head gaskets we found a lot of our do-it-yourself technicians and a lot of shops have called me on different issues on these but the biggest thing basically is usually head gaskets so what we're gonna do is we're gonna give you basically a video on how to do that so first I want to talk about the kit that you're gonna need now of course you know like on the floral and the four six as of 1999 he went from gems to Bosch so you need to be able to identify which engine you have in your vehicle before you even begin and that you can get that information right off of our website so what we're going to do is we're going to show you on a Bosch which is a little bit more complicated than the gem so it might be a better one to be able to get into so what I'm going to show you first is the gaskets kit that we have available comes all in one set and gives you all the gaskets that you're going to need to be able to do the whole head gasket job now this is under our part number sa404b engine we do have one for the gems so you'll need to be able to find that in a website the other thing is and because they you normally recommend that you replace them with every head gasket job is going to be head bolts now these are torque to yield head bolts so the specification on these when you tighten them in is based on how many degrees you turn the ball and we'll get into that when we talk about reassembly but this is the head bolt kit that you'll need now if you want to go one step better we also have a stud kit available which will take the place of the head bolts I find this is a more reliable setup especially when you're dealing with aluminum engines because of the high expansion and contraction when they eat and cold so this stud kit is also available through us and we have this under a RP 4301 both of work that had the head bolts or other stud kid it all depends on how you want to put your engine together alright so before we even begin to just give you a few tips that'll make the job a little bit easier for you first off right off the bat obviously we're going to disconnect the battery disconnect the negative lead put that to the side this way you know as far as your alternator circuit and it's not gonna be live you're not gonna touch it and ground it out and cause any damage so we're gonna disconnect the battery we're gonna end up draining the coolant which I'll show you a nice little trick because on these they don't have a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator so I'll show you a nice little trick for getting that off first thing we would do then we would take off the fan shroud and the fan and I have a habit of I let the air out of the front tires which gets the nose down by about three and a half inches what makes it a lot easier to get to the hardware and whatnot towards the back of the engine the other thing you may want to do if you're not that familiar with the design this is first time taking one apart you haven't done one before it's a good idea to grab yourself if the coffee cans little plastic containers or whatever and then as you disassemble the engine you're going to put those that hardware from different segments in a container and you're going to market alternator hardware valve cover hardware and why not so when you go to reassemble it's a lot easier to identify what bolts go where and in general last but not least as I say once we've lowered the front end we disconnect the battery we're going to drain the fluid is bring your digital camera out or your smart phone when you get to an area where like say for your belt configuration or for the way the wiring is routed on one side take a picture of it before you disassemble it believe me it'll make it a lot easier when you go to reassemble so those are some tips to help get you started now I will show you how to drain the coolant alright so we're gonna start we're gonna remove the top of the fan shroud and base and all you've got is four Phillips screws and it's not even a full screw it's a turn 90 degree and release that'll pop pop this up or shroud off take the hose off and then what we'll do is get down to the the fan itself and we'll take that off so we remove the cover from the shroud now we're going to get into the fan now essentially I pre loosened this fan because with several different things you may run into one they may come off very easy where you're going to take your fan tool you're gonna run it down on the nut let it sit on there you want to do this between the blades so that you're not gonna crack a fan blade on this and just take a nice rubber mallet or something with some weight give it a I shot now 50% of the time that'll just break them loose and allow you to take the fan off but in this case we had one where we had a lot of problems and you can do several different things you can take a long straight blade screwdriver sneak it behind a tool and jam it between the water-pump hub and one of the pulley bolts there's also a tool available through Land Rover that is a long flat bar that will drop over and actually grab around all those bolts on the pulley and allow you to hold it and get some leverage if you're in the shop I know I've had to do it several times is a long air chisel extension and then just work the nut and just slowly work it off in this case we had to basically turn this off almost all the way before I finally loosened up so these can get on there pretty tight so be prepared to spend some time on this if yours is in that condition so once we've reached that point we've been able to unthread it and this is a right hand thread we just want to mark that because some of the newer land rovers have gotten left-hand thread on the Jag engines on these on the four on the four six this fan is a right hand thread so we have that off we're going to set that aside for a minute and then what we're going to do now is we're going to remove this shroud there's two 10 millimeter head bolts that'll take the shroud off remove the belt we'll show you how to do that and then at that point we'll show you how to drain the colon on this so next step is going to be removing the belt and as I said earlier what you want to do is pull you out your cell phone your camera or whatever if you're not really familiar if it's the first time you've done this to look at the routing on the belt which runs under the damper over the tensioner or over the idler around the tensioner over the alternator and then down and under the water pump pulley up and over the AC pulley behind another idler pulley and then your power steering pump so take a good picture of that and then this way later on when you go to put everything together you use know where it's supposed to go so the group of the book remove the belt you have your tensioner on the passenger side here it's a 15 millimeter head bolt you can go one of several routes you could use a long ratchet with a 15 millimeter socket you can use belt tensioner they make me sell these everywhere this is a long extended bar with various tips on to fit different vehicles and you can use that as the tensioner I prefer this and using this for years and that just pops on there and you're gonna push down which will lift the tensioner flip the belt right off the bottom idler and pop it right back off you can take the belt off and set that aside alright so the next step is gonna be to drain the coolant out of this vehicle now you notice there is no drain plug on the bottom of the radiator the factory tells you you disconnect the lower hose which means you're going to be standing under this when you let go you really don't want to do that either so what you can do you can drain about 3/4 of the cooling system out just by taking there's one bolt out of the water pump and we're going to show you where that is alright so there's the location of the bolt this is the lower of the two eleven-sixths are 11 millimeter bolts you'll know that because the rest of the bolts that hold the water pump to the front cover are 10 millimetre heads and you can see this one hoots like it had some slight leakage so it's easy to see that it actually does attach to a coolant line so I want you to take that out that's drained about 3/4 of the colon out of the block just don't forget to put a pin underneath to catch it so next step now is going to be to remove this upper hose let's get this out of our way what I did to is it gave a little pre spray of some penetrating oil on the clamps you'll notice that if you don't do that they're a little dry they come off hard shoot a little oil on them and everything comes off much easier now you have warm clamps on this particular connection but at the other ends you have the squeeze clamps before you get this hose off we're gonna take the little bypass hose off take account if you have the original hose on there these get kind of hard and brittle so you want to flex it as little as possible so I like to get this one up and out of the way because it also somewhat interferes would take in the air box and the intake tube out we'll work that off and then basically just set this down and in front of the radiator so it's out of the way less the chance of breaking it so then we're gonna take our squeeze clamp nice pair of water pumps does a great job on these so I'll take that off and then we're gonna back off the one that's here at the thermostat just lift that off there no then it's just a matter of you recently moved to wins and we'll take that clamp off and we'll get this right out of the way it's something I'll mention it of course is taking the hose off and sometimes where these hoses have been on for a long period of time they really stick on there and they don't just twist off so there's a handy tool you can get you can buy these from any tool supplier it's just nothing more than a sort of a bent pointer and you can use that to get up underneath the hose and break it loose from wherever it's attached just work it around back and forth a little bit and that separates it and once you've done that at least three-quarters of the way around you should be able to just spin that out and remove it there we go and now that hoses out now as you go through and you disassemble any engine this is a good time to be looking at different components that wear that you may look ahead of time and say okay this is Warren I'm gonna replace that as well and this way you can get your parts together before you start your assembly when you look at a hose and you look down inside which one will check out the corners on the inside if you see vertical lines in there the Nets telling you that basically the hose is starting to wear on the inside and material is breaking down that material eventually is going to end up in your reading or your heater core and to plugging it up so any sign of real way or inside these hoses you want to replace them if you see any residue or buildup on the junction that's telling you you got a leak there same thing with down on the other end of the hoses wherever you can look down in and see corners just look for lines and striations that indicate the hoses are worn this one actually internally looks pretty good I end up reusing this one now we're going to remove the top of the air box and the intake tube you have worm gear clamp here and you have what the happens these little pop Clips here and these you just get up underneath with a pick and you're gonna lift and it releases now usually recommend or I try to either put these clamps in my little plastic container or just wreak lamp them so that they stay on the hose so when I go to reassemble I can find all my clamps so then we unclip that again we kind of pretreated this clamp a little penetrating oil so it spins off much easier you just want to make sure that's good and loose and then you have two clamps here that you just pop and lift back and then your mass airflow sensor connector you're just going to squeeze the top of it you have to squeeze and tabs on both sides and most times you need a little screwdriver just to work it off a bit and move that out of the way down there twist at that off now there's an o-ring inside this air box you want to make sure one that it's there I've had vehicles come in where that was missing and also if it's expanded or if it's deteriorated and cracked because you want to make sure you have a good seal between the two so you're not pulling in debris bypassing the air filter so we'll set that aside just for a second we have a clamp here and we have a clip here and then we just lift up the back side and we lift the top of the air by ourselves now is a good time take a look at your air filter yeah I think will be replaced in that one so now if you want and very easy to do the bottom of the airbox which actually that area makes a nice shell for when we go to take the AC compressor off this is just a matter of lift until it pops it just pops into plastic grommets this would be harder in for real cold weather so keep that into account if you're working out in your driveway especially now during the winter months and then we're gonna open that up a little bit we have our cold air intake where it attaches to the fender it's just 210 millimeter nuts which I think they're even too plastic the plastic once we get them off make sure you put them in your little plastic container where you're keeping your hardware that just pops right out and we lift that out and now you see we have a nice area we can put depression when we take it out also again nice little tip you got to ground headers right here on this front firewall and these are actually rather important a lot of your sensors ground on these two points while you got the box out it would be a good idea to back them off clean them up a little bit and retighten them back up just to make sure you got a good ground hide so as we mentioned the AC compressor we're going to set it here to take the compressor off we just have a single electrical connector right here push your tab sometimes these squeeze hard there we go you can actually hear it click when it releases and then we have four ten millimeter bolts and this one in the back these you just loosen up with a wrench you really can't get a straight socket on it as you can see your throttle cable and your cruise control cable alright so we have our four bolts out we're gonna leave that back one in obviously can't get it out anyway we'll take a long bar we want to pop that loose because there are two locating dowels that will lock on on the Sun a little bit so what's great about this is we're gonna run that wire under there and you don't have to disconnect your AC so we don't have to worry about redoing it when we're done as you can see we got a nice little holding area right there and keep it out of the way now that we have the belt off now it's a good time to be checking all your pulleys we're gonna do a little spin on the alternator the tensioner so you know this one is kind of stiff and grinding we're gonna definitely replace that pulley there should essentially spin relatively free a little bit of resistance and definitely no grinding and the power steering you want to make sure you feel a little resistance there and now's a good time to grab the water pump pulley and give it a little wiggle let's see if we have any play if you feel any loose play now it's the time to replace that water pump so now what we're gonna do disconnect the battery and we're gonna remove this bracket which is the mouth of the AC compressor we'll do that by taking these three bolts out here you need to remove this pulley because there's a nut retainer nut on the backside behind this that you're going to need to remove to take this off there is a bolt on the side here holding the power steering hoses we're going to take that off we have this bolt right here you've got three long bolts that go through the bracket into the block we'll remove those and this whole aluminum assembly will come right up and out and the power steering pump is just going to be left to the side alright so as I was saying this bracket is going to be coming out and we're gonna set this down well it's a good tip to do right now find yourself a big piece of cardboard or a piece of masonite or what and you're gonna set it right down inside in front of that radiator and essentially is just to protect the radiator so as we are moving brackets and bolts and heavier objects you want to make sure that you don't slip and hit that radiator and end up now having to replace the radiator on top of your head gasket job so it's a good tip protects the radiator save you a lot of money and grief if you don't so before I take this off I just want to show you how to back them out so you can sell these are the bolts that you're going to remove there's two here which we had to remove the pulley here which is nothing more than just 13 millimeter head run the nut out in the pulley and the nut and that bulk come right out you have a bolt here and then this was the nut that Ike was mentioning earlier you take that off because that stud runs through from the head all the way through the power steering pump to the bracket and once we take these three out we can back this out now I noticed on this one normally there's a bolt right here it's more like that's what you're going to run into when you pull the AC compressor up this one in particular was missing we'll replace that when we put it back together but look for a bolt here too that you're gonna need to remove to take the bracket out take the bolts out and then we're going to just take this bracket with the power steering lines and everything and set it right down in the hall I'm right up against the cardboard protecting our radiator and that moves that out of the way without having to break open the power steering system we drain any fluid out of it so now you see the bracket out of the way you can see how much room you develop there and now we're gonna move over to the other side we're going to centrally I've been taking the long-handled 1/2 inch drive ratchet with a 13 millimeter socket on it and use that to basically break loose the bolts from there but most cases they'll come right out and you have a ground cable we're gonna disconnect this there's gonna be a 10 millimeter head bolts on this bracket right here holding the cables in place we're gonna remove that take this bolt out to remove the belt tensioner and we're gonna take this bolt out to remove this lower pulley because we're going to replace this pulley anyway just pull your shot and then once we run this bolt and this bolt out what we'll need to do is take a pry bar to get the alternator out because we have what's basically an expanding socket in here so that when we tighten these bolts it blocks everything down in place and you'll see once I get it off I'll explain a little bit further alright so now doing the passenger side bracket in the alternator and the cables and why not I started a new little container here so I control the parts in two things I'll know the alternator bolts because when we go to put this back together you want to be able to easily identify what went where and that one normally what I do is like with the tensioner and the pulley I leave the bolt right in it and I just stash that to the side so this way I know there's one two less bolts I need to identify the bolts for the alternator you'll notice have a goldish tone because these are anodized the rest of them you'll see are more of a silver color on the shaft but the two bolts that go for the alternator have a gold-tone so they're easy to identify and you want to be careful with this because when you're trying on the bottom side of this you have these fins so you don't want to put too much effort on that to break a pin get to the hardware now we disconnected the battery because otherwise if we didn't this Cable will be 12 volts hot which means you touch this to ground anywhere you're gonna get a lot of sparks so battery's disconnected we're safe there we got a 13 millimeter nut holding the cable on and then a 10 millimeter nut for your field wire we're gonna remove both of those and we have the alternator out of the way so next step is going to be the removal of this bracket the alternator mouth we've already disconnected the 10 millimeter head bolt so we've got this this mount is disconnected we have the cables disconnected at least on the heart and you'll notice now before we can remove this bracket we have another bracket off of this cooling tube right in front of it so we're going to need to remove this coin tube and that's nothing more than three 10 millimeter head bolts here here and then one underneath we'll get that out of the way and then I'll show you the four bolts you need to remove to remove this bracket just to note on the back side of this where it attaches to the intake manifold there is an o-ring we want to make sure we get the old one out of there and then you'll be getting a new one when you get your gasket set so you can discard this and I wouldn't reuse these anyway never you reuse an old o-ring so before I take them out you just want to show you the locations of the four bolts that hold this bracket in we have one two three right here and four just below it into the right we take those four bolts out and this mounting bracket comes right out now I had mentioned earlier as far as the sliding studs that hold the alternator in you can take a small hammer and tap what looks like a flat washer an inch in open the area you'll tap these in a little bit because they're mounted on rubber you might would even shoot a little penetrating oil on it before you do that and then this way when you go to put the alternator back in you'll have a little bit of free space and you won't have to try to hammer the alternator back in it'll drop right in put your bolts in and when you tighten them up it'll move this a barrel so that it locks in against the alternator all right so it's gonna take that out of the way and we'll have basically everything out of the front of the engine that we need to remove so here's the bracket removed and like we mentioned earlier so that we don't get basically lose track of what bolts go where you'll just leave the bolts sit and right in their holes and we'll set the bracket down to the side and now there won't be any back together so now that we've taken care of what's in the front of the motor and now we're gonna start looking at and disassembling the top end next we'll obviously going to be the upper intake manifold now I'm gonna go through the basics as far as the stuff that's going to be common to both the the vehicles not equipped as this is with secondary air and then we'll also touch base on some of the additional items that you need to remove off of this when you if you do have a no.3 204 with a 4 6 secondary air or even the 4 liter with California emissions they'll have secondary air so begin with we're gonna get the throttle cable out of the way where we can just lift up and that will pull up the throttle and open it will turn the will turn this barrel and there's a small opening right here that will allow you to sneak the cable out we'll just hold that open and let's make the front cable out the front and we'll snake the back cable out the back then we're gonna disconnect these two bolts right here and then we can move both cables right out of the way next is going to be removing the 2 : hoses that go to the throttle body heater now you'll notice on this this has got two regular clamps on them but they call a worm gear clamp original equipment it will be a squeeze clamp like we saw right here and like we've disconnected up top where we just put it all underneath and we lift it and pop it in this case I'll need a Phillips screwdriver we'll take these two off be careful with this plastic hose it it becomes very brittle just like we discussed on the one that runs across the top of the radiator so when you're going to move it over just be a little careful on its movement try not to twist it or catch it on anything so we're just gonna back those clamps up and we're gonna pull those two hoses off so file cable out of the way we've got a two hose is disconnected next what we're gonna do is this is the vacuum line to feed your brake booster and this has got nothing more than a quick disconnect you'll see a little holding bracket right here matter of fact you may want to take a picture of that so when you go to put this back together you know which way it goes so we'll pop that up and that'll pivot on there now we're going to push in you can take a pair of needle-nose or a regular pair of pliers you're gonna hold that red cap in against the manifold and then pull the hose out and that moves that out of the way more than likely there should be a clamp here or something to seal off this is another vacuum line there actually this is a breather hose and we'll move that out of the way and always check this little plastic nipple these loosen up on quite a few vehicles which can create a vacuum leak now is a good time before you take it off just snug it in or you can take it off put a little sealer on the thread and run it back in that would just take a 9/16 or fourteen millimeter wrench on that and that comes right out that just threads in the manifold so then by doing this it exposes this little bolt right here which holds your two heater hoses on to the intake manifold and then another down here right underneath this tube and we're gonna take that out so that we can move this hose in this line right up out of the way so we've taken the bolt out from below the heater hose line going into the intake manifold we've taken the top bolt out and we've moved that outer hose down and tucked it underneath the cruise control motor that just holds it out of the way the harness we've got sitting here we'll worry about later now at this point this tucks into an o-ring into the manifold and these usually will stick in there pretty good so what you'll essentially need to do give it a couple wraps that kind of loosen things up a little bit and then we're going to take a straight blade screwdriver and you can just get in behind that and what we're gonna do is just keep working that and you may actually Bend this bottom tab a little bit and don't worry about that you can just hammer it right back down it's not gonna do any real damage just say like I said these do stick in pretty good and we'll just keep working it a little bit what you can do if it's really got a tight one you can back it out a little bit to create an opening and we'll shoot some penetrating oil down in there let it sit about five ten minutes and then this should pull right out all right so now we're on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold and the basically the last things we need to take off of this one there's going to be this breather hose right here this will pull off the the nipple you have your throttle position sensor with your connector right here pop that connector out by just twisting this little tab and push down on the connector that takes that out then we have the vacuum line that feeds the purge valve for the evaporative control that has to squeeze buttons on this connector you're going to squeeze on both sides that will take that out we can basically pop that out of its holder right here and then we're going to disconnect that electrical connector and this way we then can take this part of the harness and work it around through the other side of the vehicle now I'm taking their vacuum line off of the purge for the purge valve as they said there's a button on each side of this connector and they're a little difficult to get at this is a tool that's made actually for removing trim plastic trim buttons and whatnot on trim and fender wells and why not and I find by simply by design this grabs right around both sides and you can push both buttons in then work that right off it makes that job a lot easier and you can actually use the same tool when we go to disconnect the fuel line off the back of the lower intake and we'll get to that later now next step is to remove the upper intake manifold now on this vehicle it's not equipped with secondary air but you'll find like on California models with secondary air and with o3 2:03 and o4 4.6 that they also have secondary air so what you'll be dealing with they'll be actually a valve sitting on a a white tube sitting here and here and it will be held in place by two studs with two ten millimeter nuts on the side of the upper intake now I found it to make it easier on the removal have taken removed the nuts and then remove the studs that are left and then what this will do is allow you to raise the upper intake without having to completely disassemble the the diverter valves now the valve sit on two corrugated pipes that are attached to two tubes that are threaded into the heads and I found the best way on those is if you take a long punch and give the big nut at the base of that y tube where it attaches to the adapter to the head you give that a couple good sharp wraps and generally they will just come right loose and come right out then you can take the vowels out out of the way there'll also be a large vacuum harness that runs across the front and over to a control valve that would sit right about here and then you also would have a sort of oval egg-shaped black plastic container here that would also have two vacuum lines to it and you would just disconnect that at this point because now your alternator and your AC compressor out and you can move that and I just wanted to give you a brief rundown on that I'm sorry we don't have one here to show you but the explanation I just gave should give you a pretty good idea what you need to do now in this vehicle and then also with the type with the secondary air once you've gotten that the tubes and the valves out you're just going to remove for ten millimeter head bolts in the center and there's another ten millimeter down in the back and another ten millimeter Center front there are also two small eight millimeter if they're the original bolts two small eight millimeter bolts that attach the top of the coil bracket to the upper intake and you're just going to sneak down in there with an extension what you can do is pop out the throttle cable to move that over and then there are spring clips that hold this wiring harness in rolling this forward we can get straight in with an extension to get to those two back bolts so that's what we're going to do now and we're gonna lift this upper intake out so we have everything unbolted so we're just gonna pop this up we're gonna lift up a little bit so it clears the there's actually a locating dowel about 3/4 of the way in under here you also gonna have an electrical connector on the backside of the idle air control motor you just squeeze there's a little bar that runs across you squeeze that and pull that connector off and then shoot for you I'll pull the upper intake off so what you have remaining is the lower intake we have the 8 electrical connectors to the all the injectors and then the ignition coil we're gonna remove and then we can access the fuel line down below now the this coil has got a small 8 millimeter head bolt here and then one here once you disconnect those you can lift this up a little bit and there's also an electrical connector on each side which also has a little spring bar that you can press and release it from the coil so that's the next thing we're going to do is we're going to pull we're gonna disconnect it all the spark plug wires off the spark plugs on both sides disconnect and remove the two bolts lift this up take the two connectors out and then we can take the ignition coil and a wires out one assembly now on this particular vehicle and actually on some of the original equipment there gray wires the number of the cylinders numbered right on the wires before you start pulling these off make sure yours are numbered if they are and tag them so that when you go to put this back together you do n don't you would end up putting them back in the right sequence alright then what I've done in this trick works really nice your two air conditioning lines in the back this is very bendable very mobile metal it's generally a high-tensile aluminum so we're just gonna actually pop them back just a little bit you can use a piece of wood what this does essentially it gives us just enough clearance to sneak that coil out of there because it is pretty tight pretty tight fit the other way you can do is to unbolt the on lower intake and slide it forward a little bit and slide this out but I'm just used to doing it this way and it works and we disconnected the two wires off the side and we're just gonna lift that right up and out of there let's pull the wires through if you've tagged your wires just be careful not to pull your tags off so just to show you here here's our electrical connector on one side you see the little metal bar across the top you're just gonna press down on that till you hear it click and that pops right off and we'll do the same to the other and we lift the coil right up and out of there what we're gonna do now is then we're gonna disconnect the electrical connections to the injectors and we should be able to move this engine harness right up and out of the way so now we're down to the lower intake which is going to be nothing more than 13 millimeter head bolts all the way down the line we've got two four six and then six on the other side we've popped off the injector wire and you just kind of moved everything out of the way which really opens up the work area gives you plenty of room to work we're going to take all those bolts out break the lower intake loose because they get they stick on pretty well and move it forward maybe about an inch or so so we can reach down in the back and we're going to disconnect the fuel line and we can have that lower intake out we're at the point now we wonder we've got this all unbolted and as I say these stick and they stick pretty good so what we're gonna do is going to take a flat blade screwdriver you can use a hard scraper or whatnot we're going to get down at an angle from here and the reason we don't want to start here or hit into this because we have a water jacket right here on the intake manifold and we definitely don't want to do any cut any gouges or create any depressions where the gaskets gonna have a hard time sealing so we're just going to run this straight down let's do stick a little bit so now we're gonna reach in the back and all we need to do now is just disconnect that fuel line in the back and we can pull this right up and out alright so down the back behind the lower intake you can see the fuel line comes up and then goes to this connector right here and this is going to be similar to that solenoid that we disconnected earlier you get a little push button right here and then there's one identical to it on the other side just reach down squeeze those two tabs and usually works better if you grab the connector push into the tube squeeze the two buttons and it should come right out next step is going to be removing the valve covers now on the valve covers you've got four bolts and they are eight millimeter 12-point so you're gonna need an eight millimeter or a 5/16 12 point socket preferably quarter-inch drive so that'll fit down that little well that they put the bolts into and that's I sort of have a long swivel which works really well and you're gonna just remove the four bolts and give it a tap now on the driver's side you have a small Phillips head screw that holds the dipstick onto the valve cover now once you take the screw out I found that if you use a carburetor cleaner or a varnish remover and just squirt some down on the bottom of this you're gonna let it sit for a minute and you should be able to work that right up and out of the blocks and get it out of your way so we're gonna take the driver's side off first and once we take the two bolts out on the inner and then we're going to take a short stubby Phillips so we'll take that little screw out that's right on the side here and then we'll take the two bottom bolts out and lift this valve cover right out so we'll move the harness out of the way we've taken the four bolts out we took the screw out of the dipstick and we're just gonna lift this up and away throw the old gasket away and you can see in here we've definitely have had some coal and oil mix in there that's what that milky color is so we're on the right track working our way down to the heads and we're gonna see what those gaskets look like we get them apart another good thing to do take a quick look up top see the condition of the rockers see if anything is odd or out of place looks good just needs to be cleaned off and that's the other thing too is if you have the opportunity I don't know what facilities you have but if you have a local engine shop or whatnot it would be good idea even if you don't have the parts rework at least have them hot tanked cleaned off this way all the gasket surfaces are clean the upper surfaces are clean and just generally won't look a lot better - when you get it done so we're gonna move this out of the way and I can say with the dipstick there fortunately this one nice and loose you just grab the little bracket and just work that back and forth and pull that right up and out on the block and we'll move that out of the way next step is now we're going to take the rocker arms off now remember that you're going to have spring pressure on some of these because of the valve and the camp positioning so when you back these four bolts off you have one two three and four you're gonna back them off just a little bit at a time start from the middle and work your way outward and then just back it out if you end up taking one out completely and then the other can cause a twist and I've even seen it where it snapped the rocker shaft and because it created too much tension so we're gonna take these out a little bit at a time we're going to do both sides take the pushrods out now usually it's recommended that you're going to want to put the push rod back in the same position it was in when you go to put the engine back together because not the the way the push rod seats in the rocker they're not going to be identical all the way down the line it's going to be a little bit different wear on it sometimes that can create a little noise in the engine so when you take the push rods out number on my mark them with a piece of tape or whatever so when you're going to put it back together they go back in the same way so we've taken our rockers off we've pulled the push rods mark your oil your push rods you'll probably feel that when you pull them up you yanked a couple of lifters out which is fine because the next step is going to be pulling the intake gasket out and it's just a matter of this bolt right here and then one identical in the back half-inch socket zip those out we're going to take these two top block downs off and then with a scraper we can just work our way around and lift the whole paint assembly right up and out and then at that point we'll be ready to take the heads off so we're just going to zip this off all right so let me just gonna take a scraper and whip this up now a note the two bolts that you took out of this the one in the front in the back has a different thread than any of the other bolts in this engine they went with a 5/16 coarse thread bolt so you want to make sure that you either mark them or keep them separate or just that you understand by looking at them that you're going to have to use those two same bolts in this position you can't use them anywhere else in the edge so just on that note get this scraped up pull this out of here and you'll see a couple of lifters popped out which is fine because we're actually gonna we'll set them back in place if you're going to continue on after removing the heads to strip the block down probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the lifters in which case you want to take the new ones and soak them in a tub oil before you put them back in just to get them filled with oil okay so everything back there and we take our intake and we get rid of this and reuse it so the next step is to remove the heads now you had two approaches that we can do on this you can either disconnect the catalytic converters from the exhaust manifolds and once you take the head bolts out take the head and the manifold out one Paul or you could take the bolts out that attach the manifold to the head remove the head leaving the exhaust manifolds in place probably a matter what's more convenient for you as far as how to access it me and I have a lift I can get to the six bolts underneath is relatively easy if you're doing this on the floor then you may want to remove the exhaust manifold bolts now the exhaust manifold bolts are a twelve millimeter 12-point so you want to make sure you have that style socket before you go taking this off now two things to look at before you take the heads off or before we even begin with the head bolts is there's a 13 millimeter head bolt in the back that in some cases early early Bosch will have no ground wire there but they will have the harness you can see that loop right there there was a bolt went through that into the head to hold the harness in place and then straight down in the back of the left side head is the connector for the cranks crank shaft speed sensor and that is going to be kind of inaccessible you're gonna have to take a long screwdriver you need to pop it out of a bracket that just simply a fork a bracket that holds that connector and you get in with a long screwdriver and what I just pop that out of there sometimes you can even be gonna pull just ahead and leave the exhaust you can break it loose move it forward just a little bit will give you a little bit better access but it's in a crazy place it's hard to get at but just so you know it's there so what we're gonna do is now we're gonna grab a breaker bar and five-eighths you 5/8 or 16 millimeter socket and we're gonna break all these head bolts loose and then I'm gonna put this up in the air and take the six bolts off the exhaust manifolds alright so as I said what we're gonna do is we're gonna disconnect there's three nuts on each side that will disconnect the exhaust manifold from the catalytic converters this is the way I prefer to take it off like I said you can do it from up top it's a little bit harder but if you don't have easy access underneath the vehicle then yes it'll be easier for you so what we're gonna do is they're half-inch you got three nuts on each side these actually look relatively clean we're gonna take those three off drop the vehicle back down and then we'll get the bolts out of the heads and then lift the heads right off the engine alright so as I mentioned before we've taken the six bolts out from underneath now just a note a lot of times because they've been down there and a number of these vehicles have been around for a while they will rust in place you may try to heat them up to take them out some of them we snap the stud in the manifold which it did in this case in a couple places if you're in a shop that's fine because when you pull the heads the manifolds are coming with it you'll have easy access to either drilling or blowing out with a torch if you don't have those facilities you can always just take the manifold off the head take it to a shop having new studs in it the studs are available on these so the next step is going to be now that we've got the bolt out of the back the connector for the crank position sensor out of the back now it's just a matter of there's ten head bolts now when you take them out you're going to notice the top three Center are going to be longer than the rest take that in note so when you go to put the new ones in and once we get the bolts out I'll show you a little trick on how to lift that up and out of there alright so when you're taking the head off one thing I wanted to mention there also that there's a braided ground strap right here this runs down in both to the back of the head you have a ten millimeter nut here you only need to take that nut out and you'll take the strap out with the head also this is the time when you're going to use that five ace Universal socket this is the one that you're going to need to get to that back bolt in this back corner otherwise this is really tough to get at and it's nice because the universal design limits the twist on it so you're not fighting against yourself trying to get it out of there so this is the point where you're going to use this tool and you really only need it just for that one bolt the rest of them will come out with it with a straight bolt with a straight socket now we've got all the head bolts out we've got the lower three bolts out we're going to show you a little trick I'm pulling the head because you're probably wondering okay now we've got the manifold in the head together have a fair amount of weight they're really not that bad so what we're going to do is we're going to reinstall the rocker shaft without the push rods because then we don't have to deal against any spring pressure why not and you don't even really even need to put the bolts in all the way just just about half way you have to support the weight without want any damage to any of the threads and I would suggest do all four don't just do the inner to the outer so this way all this should be the weight a little bit better all right so the trick is we're gonna take two shop rags now that we put the rocker back in place we put the bolts in about half way and we'll talk a couple shop rags just underneath the rail all right so we're ready to pull this out and what we've done is we're thinking to shop rags and tuck them underneath the rail so that you have a handle you say we've run these bolts in about half way it doesn't take it's not a lot of weight but it just makes it easier and then what we're gonna do is just lift straight up take the head right now all right so at this point we've got the head out just to show you here was that connector for the crank position sensor that you can see it's kind of in a very hidden spot and you'll notice that prior to that we've got all the wiring up out of the way so now is a good time they give the gasket an inspection to see if this was your culprit you can slowly peel this off you can see we've had a little bit of blow-by between the cylinders this may be the possibility of a cracked piston we'll have to clean that all off before we can make a determination it could just be water stain so we'll move our gasket up and out of the way and then now we're going to do the same thing with the head on the other side get both heads off and then we're going to do an inspection to see if we have a slip sleeve which these engines are notorious for it's an aluminum block with a steel sleeve that is not pinned or fastened down in any way shape or form from the manufacturer so there are times where they can get hot and the sleeves will move a little bit or the block can crack underneath the sleeve which you'll see traces of coolant so we're gonna go through a basic inspection on that and we'll show you how to do that so at the point now we want to do our clean up before reassembly and this is actually as critical as doing prep work for a good paint job you want to make sure you got everything clean you've done your inspection to see exactly what your cause was why you pulled the heads to begin with and what we found was of course the the back of by number eight cylinder the head gasket in this area between this coolant galley and the cylinder was drawn in : you can see how basically it's steam cleans the solder as opposed to the buildup and whatnot you have any other combustion chambers so what we're gonna do is we'll give you a few tips on how to clean this up usually if they're like really loaded up with grease and oil and whatnot and get some engine degreaser and a pressure washer you get it cleaned off you can see this is reach the level where that's acceptable to put back on we've taken the spark plugs out we have all the gasket surfaces out and essentially at this point all you really need to do is get the OL the gasket surface is clean and dry so that the new gaskets have a good surface to adhere to so what I normally like to do is I'll take a small scraper why not now this is aluminum so we're not going to dig we're just gonna basically write the the scraper over the top and just get the heavy stuff off and we'll do that all the way around until we get it all out we're going to keep this at a good low angle so that we're not digging into the aluminum at any point and then you'll do the same thing on your intake gasket area here now remember you have usually your intake port so these are : you definitely don't want to dig into the aluminum there and then on your exhaust side same thing you're gonna scrape off the heavy area and Buzz that off again it's good to have this the spark plugs out because we're gonna clean those holes out as well and then the next step would be you can take a small brass and I recommend brass not steel especially in the aluminum head and we'll just work our way around in the combustion chamber clean off the top of the valve you see it takes it off pretty easily and we'll get around up in there and then what I can do is you can do one of two things if you don't have air power which where I use a little angle head die grinder with the 3m what we referred to as a cookie and we'll end up buzzing all this off now this is basically example but on an aluminum head you would use a blue cookie they actually are made in several different coarseness and the blue is the very fine which is all you need to just basically take the surface down nice and clean you don't have the air power you can actually go out and buy a pair of scotch-brite again you know this is a very fine so this is what you want to use on aluminum and we'll use that to clean up the surface and then we do is if you don't have the the tool you can take it to a small machine shop or why not this is essentially an engine straight edge and this is actually an edge that is accurate to a half a thousandths of an inch and what you'll do is you're gonna place it in different angles on the head and then with a flashlight on the backside you're gonna look to see if any light is visible through the backside this is going to tell you have some warpage and you can tell how much by just sliding a feeler gauge in there until it's nice and snug but this is what we're going to use to basically test all the surfaces on both the head and the block and the preparation for the top of the block is going to be the same as this we're just gonna lightly scrape off the heavy stuff and then take the rest down at a 3m and the other thing you want to watch and the cylinder heads here and here these are your oil galleys that feed oil up to the rocker assemblies so you want to take a pipe cleaner or a small drill bit or whatever and just run it through there and you're going to find is usually gunk built up in there you want to make sure these are clean the same on the block you have these two galleys lined up in the same area same thing you can run a small drill down through it or a pipe cleaner just to get the gunk cleaned out of it dipped in mineral spirits does a really nice job cleaning it out and the mineral spirits do no harm when you eventually start the vehicle up this so little in there mix right in with the oil it doesn't cause a problem okay so essentially that's the rundown on cleaning up the head and I'll show you a finished product just to give you idea how you should look before you put it back together that's right so there you are you see you're basically your combustion chambers we've got all the heavy stuff cleaned out your gasket surface is nice and cleaned there's your intake surface again nice and clean we've put the straightedge on all of this and we determine that the heads are in good shape same thing on the exhaust and we have a nice clean glass you'll notice when you took the exhaust manifolds off some of the areas you're gonna find a double gasket it from the factory so take note of that where those double gaskets were because on some cases you may need to do that because the heads are nice and straight but the exhaust manifolds they're not built to the thousandths of an inch so sometimes one area is a little less pressure here to create a seal so they double gasket to make up for that so just keep that in mind other than that you just head and once we get that one done these heads will be ready to put back on the engine you
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