In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the iLAND Diagnostic App to perform a brake bleed, a function that must be done on Discovery Series II after work on your brake system.
iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. How To Use The iLAND App Brake Bleeding Demonstrated on the Discovery Series II. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to show you one of the features on the new iLAND for the Discovery II. Now the Discovery II has a brake system that if you were to open up the system, either for caliper, master cylinder repair, ABS, whatever, and you need to bleed the system afterwards, there is actually a 3 step procedure on the brake bleeding. And one of the steps, or actually the 2 last steps you do need a diagnostic tool that will complete this procedure. So what we're going to do is we're going to get on our iLAND. We've basically gotten to this screen which was just the initial set up screen. We hit confirm. Then it comes up our choices Discovery 1 through 4. This is a Discovery 2. And we want to go to ABS. We make sure our ignition is on. This is position 2. Have your lights on in your dash. We're good there. And this is going to set this up. And then essentially you are going to go down through to the vehicle maintenance. Just going to read through this warning. And there you have brake bleeding. Now what you'll start with in this first step of a brake bleeding procedure on a D2 is the old fashion way you either have somebody pump the pedal or you have a pressure bleeder attached to the master cylinder, you're going to run the system through and then bleed at all 4 corners. After you've completed that, then you come back to the brake bleeding segment. And essentially what it's going to do is explaining the 3 steps. And manual bleed as we just discussed. Then there's going to be a modulator bleed. And what will happen when you proceed with this, we're not going to do this now because we're not doing a brake bleed, we just want to show you the function. The modulator bleed it's going to have you sit in the vehicle with your foot on the brake pedal. You're going to hit that Ok. And it's going to cycle the ABS valves and you're going to feel the pedal vibrate and modulate. And then when it's done, when it's finished that, then we're going to go to step 3, which is a power bleed. And what it does is activates the ABS pump so that pressurizes the system. And you go around and bleed all 4 corners again just like you did the first time, only now you're getting the assistance from the pump. So that essentially is the brake bleed. And that's going to be on all the Discovery 2's from 1999 to 2004. So if you're looking to do brakes, or you're doing brakes on your vehicle, you need this tool to be able to do the bleed call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you want, just click on this link, you can order it online. And if you like our how to videos, and would like to see more, just go to our YouTube channel and subscribe and you can view all of our different videos. So for that we thank you for watching. And Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to bleed the brakes on a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using
Motive Products Power Bleeder, Part #s 9508 & 9508K with standard kit plus adapters (or separate adapters kit # 9508A). This demonstration is also applicable on all Land Rovers and Range Rovers. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Using Motive Products Power Bleeder (#9508) Bleeding Brakes This Demo Performed On A Range Rover Full Size 2003 - 2005 (L322)Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a brake bleeder tool that I have available that can make it a lot easier for those of you that don't have air pressure. Don't have a compressor. Like to do your own work. Bleed the brakes. This tool will help you greatly. This is the 9508, and what you get is a canister that will hold looks like to be a half a gallon of brake fluid. And simply all it is is just a pump up pressurizer and you would attach this to the master cylinder using this adapter that comes with it. This will fit the majority of your crew on caps for your master cylinders. If by chance you have one of the older models with the larger caps and the larger openings, we have an adapter kit available, the 9508A, or you can save a little money and get both together with the 9508K kit. So what we're going to do is show you how to hook this up, how to go through and do a bleed and show you how easy it is to use this tool. So what we've done now is we have this hooked up to the master cylinder. Now in this case the adapter that came with it actually threaded right on the master cylinder. And this is on the L322. So this worked out very well. What you need to do then is to test the fitting that connects the 2 hoses. Give it a good snug fit. Doesn't have to be super tight. Just make sure you have a good seal. Going to fill the fluid up about half way up the bottle. And then you have a pressure gauge on this where you're simply going to hand pump. And you can bring it up around 15. And then what we're going to do is start from the furthest point of the master cylinder and work our way forward. So you're going to start at the right rear, then left rear, right front and then left front. And then it always doesn't hurt to go back and crack the back ones open 1 more time after that just to make sure you got everything out. Handy little tool. You don't need shop air. And it doesn't take all that long to really get it up to 15 pounds. You don't need much more than that. All you're looking to do is push the air out. You're not looking to blow up the lines. So I'll let it sit for a minute. Wait until we see some of this flow out. Try and get a spot where we are fairly level here. This way we can keep an eye on our level. We definitely don't want to run that dry. So, let's start at the right rear. So we only need to really back this off 1 and 1/2 turns. Then we'll wait a few minutes to for it to work its way back. Now in this vehicle we replaced hoses and lines. So it's going to take a little while because we're basically starting with an empty system. You can actually feel a little pressure in the line when you put your finger over the end of the bleeder. So you know you got fluid coming. So here we got a nice steady stream. I'll crack it open one more time. You can see we got a good steady stream with no bubbles. No we're just going to close that down. We don't have to really tighten it because we're going to come back to do that one more time. So, essentially the same process to left rear, right front, left front, and then back one more time do the rears and you should be good. You should have a nice tight pedal. Now you want to check the instructions if you are using this tool. Some vehicles require to have an analyzer hooked up to it to flutter and open and close the valves in the ABS system. Some vehicles do require that. In this particular case you can do a standard bleed and you'll get your pedal back. So, this is a nice little tool to have. It's relatively inexpensive. Great for around the house. You do your own brake work and whatnot, this is a great tool, especially when it comes time to do a brake flush, which you really should do on a regular basis on most vehicles. So when you're ready to so do, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Notice a loss of braking power? Do you need to pump your brake pedal to get your brakes to activate? If you've checked the brakes, looked at the slides, with everything else in the braking system operating correctly after bleeding the brakes and you still have a sloppy pedal, it could be the seals on your master cylinder. The brake master cylinder delivers pressure to the system, and the seals may have worn out and are no longer doing their job on your Discovery II. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to remove, and replace the
brake master cylinder. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Access And Replace Brake Master Cylinder on Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about master cylinders. Specifically for the master cylinder for the Discovery II, 1999 to 2004 where you find that going down the road you step on the brake pedal, the pedal goes three quarters of the way to the floor, you pump it up, pedal comes up nice and hard and actually ends up where it should be. You've checked the brakes. You've looked at the slides. You make sure everything is operating right. You've bled the system out and yet you still have this sloppy pedal. And essentially what's happening is you're starting to develop a build up inside the master cylinder, allowing the seals to basically not do their job. They don't completely seal so you have to pump the pedal to good stop of the pedal. So, what we're going to do is discuss about master cylinder. Essentially all this does is deliver the pressure to the system. Now these are a little different than most. And what you have basically is a secondary or reservoir or a pull for your back brakes here in this plastic piece. Which means that it's very hard to what they call bench bleed. And a lot of shops will put a master cylinder in a vice and manually move this and bleed this system out and then install it on the vehicle. On these you need to install first and then you're going to either use a pressure bleeder or you're going to have someone or helper in the vehicle pump the pedal while you bleed that part of the brakes out. So we're going to show you how to essentially change one of these over. They're relatively easy. It's nothing more than just the 2 brake lines and the 2 bolts and then we'll show you how to bleed it in the vehicle. Alright, so to remove the master cylinder the first thing we're going to do is disconnect the electrical connector for the fluid sensor. And that's just a matter of spread these outer tabs a bit while you're pulling on the connector. And move that out of the way. We don't want to be pouring any brake fluid in there too as we're removing that. And we'll leave the cap on for now.Which you can refer to our video on how to bleed the brakes on the D2. We generally recommend because the factory recommends it states that the best way to bleed these is the 3 way, or the 3 step brake bleeding that includes using a diagnostic tool to activate the pump on the ABS unit and then to do the power bleed afterwards. Some people will say you can do without. You can just do a regular pump and bleed or put a pressure bleeder on it and that works fine but you only end up with about three quarters of a decent pedal. You want to make sure with brakes you're not fooling around. Do it right. Do it with a diagnostic tool and get all the air out of the system. So you've essentially seen how to replace the master cylinder. This point we just put the cap back on. And pull the wire around. Re connect the sensor. And that's basically it. We've basically, we've changed the master cylinder and you can actually do this within an hours worth of time. If you decide to bleed the brakes that will add a little bit of time. You'll still be doing it right. So, should you find you need a master cylinder for your 99 to 2004 Disco 2, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Need to learn how the replacement of
brake pads and rotors is done on a Range Rover Sport Supercharged? Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the difference between front brakes installed on a Range Rover Sport Supercharged, 2006-2009 that is equipped with the Brembo brake calipers, as opposed to those front brakes on a Non-Supercharged Sport or LR3. Doug will then show you the steps involved in removing and replacing with new brake pads and rotors (and new brake pad sensor).
How to install an electric brake controller on an LR3 or Range Rover Sport. Installing this part is quick and easy. Simply, locate the connector under the dash on the drivers side, plug the wiring harness provided, mount the controller, and you are ready to connect to a trailer equipped with electric brakes.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you the steps involved in changing over the rear brake pads and rear rotors on your Range Rover Sport or Land Rover LR3. Doug will also explain how to adjust the parking brake, which sits behind the rear rotor, as well as other helpful tips to get the replacement brakes installed, and to get your Rover back on the road.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the
brake rebuild kit on a Range Rover Sport 2014. Doug will show you how to install front and rear brake pads and rotors including brake wear sensors. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit #: 8889 Install Brake Rebuild Kit On 2014 Range Rover Sport 5.0L, V8, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about brake replacement on 2014 and newer Range Rover Sport. No in this case we're doing the Supercharged, which has the 6 piston Brembo brakes. A lot of guys get intimidated by that, where it really is not that hard to do. So what we're going to do is show you how to install rotors and pads, and also the pad wear sensor. So if you hang in, we're going to show you exactly how to do it and how easy it is to do. To give you an idea of how simple it is, this is essentially all the tools you're going to need to change the fronts. You need a hammer and a pin to drive out the 2 pins that hold the pads in place. Couple straight blade screw drivers we can use to compress the pistons before we pull the caliper off. You're going to need a number 50 torx driver for the retainer pin for the front rotors and then a 21 millimeter socket for the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on the mount. Now I'm also going to recommend a good strong hook, because once you take that caliper off, while you're doing the rotor change, you don't want to hang that caliper by the brake hose. You can end up causing damage to the brake hose. So a good stiff hook. You can work one end into the caliper, one end the upper control arm, and that will hold it up out of the way until you're done putting the rotor on and you're ready to reinstall the caliper. So, essentially all you have are 2 pins that hold down this anti-rattle bracket right here. And we're going to just drive those 2 pins out. We're going to collapse those pistons before we take the caliper off. That's the best time to do it. And you can do it now, or you can do it after the bracket off. I'm going to remove the bracket first just to give you more visibility with what you're working with. And then we'll carry on from there. So while we're tapping this out, keep in mind that this is spring loaded. This has some tension on it. As you knock this upper pin out, this is going to want to force itself out. So this is why I use a long punch, so I can actually use the punch in place of the pin to hold that and then as I remove the punch, this will come out and I can take the bracket right up and out of the way.It's a little tight but you can get in there. So we're connected, we're routed. And remember we had also popped the wire for the parking brake motor out so we push the grommet back in place so everything's secure. So now it's just a matter of plugging this in. As you can see you basically have like a U shaped connection here. And then there's a cut out in the brake pad, so you just simply line the 2 up. Give this a little wiggle. And you'll feel it seat in. You just give it a light tug back, just to make sure it's locked in place. And there you are. You're good. So essentially we're going to do the same thing to the other side, which will actually be a little easier because you don't have to deal with the pad sensor. So once that's completed, you've got new brakes all the way around on your new Sport. So when you're ready to replace the brakes on your 2014 or newer Sport, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or if you'd like you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our how to videos you can go to our YouTube site and subscribe and look at all the various videos that we've all ready done. So when you're ready. Thank you very much for watching. And Rover on.
Atlantic British Ltd. Do-It-Yourself-How-To Video: In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will use the
iLAND Diagnostic App to perform parking brake setting and unjamming procedures on a 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged, explaining why this is important to do after certain services are completed. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. How To Use the iLAND App Parking Brake Setting & Unjamming Procedures For All Late Model Rover Vehicles - Demonstrated on the Range Rover Sport. Hi I'm Doug. I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we want to touch base on one of the functions on the iLAND Diagnostic Tool that we now carry. And that's for servicing the rear brakes and the rear parking brakes. Now on this, this is a 2006 Supercharged Sport, this would actually apply to the Sport and the LR3, and I believe even the early LR4s, until they converted over to the motorized rear calipers later on. So what we're going to show you is basically how to access that function and what that function does for you. So the first thing we've done is we've plugged in our dongle. We see the blue LED. We know our dongle is powered up. Now this is, we're going to use the iphone, where you can do either iphone or ipad if you have it programmed to your unit. And on the iOS systems you're going to find 2 icons for iLAND. You're going to see one here and you're also going to see another with a blue dot on your second page. This is strictly for the software for the diagnostic procedures. You're not going to use that to access and diagnose your vehicle. You're going to use this one. So we're going to hit that. That's going to light up all the vehicles. Now in this case this is the Pro version, so its lit up all the vehicle models. If you have yours programmed for only one vehicle model, like a Discovery or a Sport or whatever, just that box is going to be lit in red. So we go to Range Rover Sport. We go through our garage disclaimers. And now we're going to wait a second and let this go through. Now it's telling us Diag file downloaded. Dongles connected. We want to make sure ignition switch is on. Now we're just going to turn this so that all of the lights come on the dash. We're not going to start and run the vehicle. And it confirms that the firmware version that we have on here is the latest. So we hit continue and we let the Bluetooth do its job. This model is a 2006. It's a Supercharged V8 Petrol. And again just making sure we have the key on so we can talk to all the different modules. And we're going to go to system selection. And then we're going to go to parking brake control module. So first it's going to do a set-up communication. Now you'll see the module in the parking brake is actually tied in with the high speed can, in other words it talks to all the modules that control the vehicle. The power train, transmission, transfer case, whatever. So it's actually an important module to this system. Now you'll see you can read fault codes. You can clear them. You can actually get in and read some of the live data. It will tell you what version information in case you need to know that. Special functions is what we're looking for though. And what this does is several things. One, it will allow you to get in and do the accelerometer calibration. Which sometimes needs to be done after you've replaced the module. You can also drive the parking brake to mounting position. And this comes in handy if you're replacing the rear brake shoes. And they have been an issue with these vehicles over the years. That you would use this to put the shoes, or actually would put the park brake module in a position where it makes it easier to remove and install the parking brakes. And you also have latching position, which is also used in some of the installations. Now this is the important one, as what happens on occasion is these modules will jam up, whether it will be an over torque or whatever the case. This will allow you to unjam it.Essentially going to hit that. And what this will do is you'll read through and it kind of explains why that this application will drive the park brake in an unjammed in the release direction and then drive it into a mount position which is fully retracted. Now you want to make sure battery is fully charged up. Anything you do with any monitor on these vehicles you want to make sure the battery is fully charged up. Low battery voltage can end up creating problems for you, because voltage is very important in the operation of all these modules. So essentially once you read through it explains what to do we're going to hit okay. Tells you again make sure ignition switch is on. Now it's going to tell you. You're going to start the motor. And just give it a second to come down on its idle. Got that settled. And there it is. You're unjammed. Actually we're already working with a vehicle with a fully operational parking brake. So it's already set, it's in an unjammed position so you can drive the vehicle. So now it's just telling me turn this off. We hit okay. Ignition switch on. And what it's doing is it's clearing any faults out of the module that may have occurred due to the jamming. Again we'll switch off. And switch back on, and it may seem redundant but this is the steps that it needs to see to actually go through and fully succeed in their functions. So control module procedure completed successfully. So we're good. Set the ignition switch to off. And it's just going back telling me, here you can just go back to home page if you want. So, this shows you the function on the iLAND that will allow you to do parking brake repairs and do them properly and much easier instead of trying to do it without. So if you're ready to step up to the iLAND to do this procedure and more on your Land Rover and help you maintain it you can just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 or you can go on this link and you can order it online. And if you like our how to videos, and would like to see more, you can subscribe to our YouTube channel and that will give you access to all our how to videos we have for your vehicle and more. So appreciate you watching. We thank you. And Rover on.
Watch Doug explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a 1999-2004 Discovery Series II. Using
our money-saving kit, with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 90,000 miles. Kit # ABP218SKA Installing the Brake Hose &Fluid Kit on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to introduce you to the brake fluid and hose kit that we make as part of our repair and maintenance academy. The hose kit will cover both front and rear hoses for your Discovery 2, 1999 to 2002. And what's included is your 2 front hoses, 2 rear hoses from body to axle and then axle to rear caliper. You get new bolts for the caliper banjo fittings with new copper washers and seals, and enough brake fluid to properly flush out and bleed the whole system. Now the advantage behind our brake hoses as opposed to original equipment design, we manufacture them here. They are manufactured of a braided stainless steel, it makes them lighter, stronger and much more longer lasting. If your vehicle has 100,000 miles, 105,000, which Land Rover actual recommends replacement of those hoses at 105,000 miles. This is Kit I, Part #ABP218SKA and this will get you everything that you have here. These hoses will be considerably stronger and will last longer than the original equipment which is going that safer. And in the long run it is going to make your brakes perform better. And in a few minutes we'll show you how to install these on your vehicle. Once you have your brakes bled out, put your wheels back on. Make sure they're torqued to proper specs. Take your jack stands out. And you're ready to go. So again, when you're ready to change over your brake hoses, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, talk you through the replacement of the original equipment rear bushing (or you can use the
optional polybush kit, which we show in this video) of the lower control arm suspension. Access to this bushing is granted by removing the entire lower control arm assembly. This is a common replacement for Range Rover Sport 2006-2009, or LR3 2005-2009, and affects steering stability when the bushing becomes old and worn out. Lower Control Arm Suspensions: Rear Bushing Replacement On LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to touch base on a very common issue that we find on the LR3s and the Sports. It is the lower control arm suspension. The rear bushing likes to soften up, which creates a lot of movement in the control arm, to the point where even stepping on the brake you can actually hear a bang noise coming from underneath. And what that does is throws off your alignment, creates tire wear instability on steering, overall just does not make the vehicle comfortable to drive. Also can be rather expensive in the end, especially if you're buying tires on a regular basis. So what we're going to do is show you how to remove the lower control arm and then you have the option of either replacing the control arm with either with original equipment bushings or we also offer a polybush, which we're also going to show you how to install those. So, what we have essentially have done is the vehicle is up in the air, tires off. We've taken the front brakes off, because we're also doing brakes on this vehicle. But getting the brakes out of the way does make the job easier. And makes the knuckle assembly much lighter to handle. We're not going to take the knuckle out.Now ideally when you get the vehicle back together, if you have access to a drive on ramp, or if you have room to work underneath, what you should do is get the vehicle down on all 4, set your height at normal ride height, and then you loosen the 2 pivot bolts that we just installed and your shock spring bolts. Let it neutralize. Let it settle down. And then re-tighten them. That will basically set all the bushings in their neutral positions. And it will ride a lot better. It will also eliminate the possibility of any squeaks. If you should have one of the bushings stressed because we tightened it when the axles were fully down. That's pretty much it. So if you are going to either change over your lower control arm or you want to install polybushings, call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the simple process involved in changing the Air Filter on a LR2 2008-On. Using
Kit/Part # LR005816, it is recommended that the Air Filter be replaced every 30,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part#: LR005816 Air Filter Replacement On LR2 / Freelander 2, 2008-On, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationHi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk air filters. This one in particular is for the LR2. This is with the 3.2 6 cylinder. And just like any other vehicle air filter you obviously want to keep clean. It affects fuel economy. It affects performance. It does a lot of things for a component that is relatively easy to replace. So this one in particular, which we offer on our Maintenance and Repair sheet that's available through our website. You can download this and make a copy. What this does is basically list all the maintenance items you should be doing on your LR2. What kind of product and also the intervals. So in this case the air filter we have part number LR005816. It's recommended about every 30,000 miles. Obviously if you're in a dry dusty area, probably more so because of the way it clogs up the filter. So what we're going to do too is we're going to show you how to install this. Relatively very easy and it's something you should be doing on a regular basis. All right, so essentially to take the cover off you're going to need a teak 25 bit. This is a torch drive. There's 4 that hold this down in place. I like to use a little power screw driver. A hand unit you can get, you can get the hand held or manual type anywhere. It's a pretty common tool. First thing you're going to do is pull the cover off the battery and master cylinder because that's going to get in our way. And that you just grab the 2 tabs. There's even arrows there show you what direction to pull and the whole thing pops right off. There's your battery. Then we're going to take the 4 screws out that hold the top cover in. And once we have that. All right so, here you should be able to lift this up high enough you don't even have to disconnect the mass airflow sensor. Just grab in the back corner. Lift straight up. You can see it doesn't look that bad. But when you get a build up in between all the pleated areas it can actually cause quite a restriction. So I'm just going to take the new filter. We'll slide that in place. Make sure that the orange seal is seated firmly against the base. Set the top cover back on. We give it a little wiggle so that it seats in and it will actually find its own location. And then we just run 4 screws back in. And before we put the cover back on the battery you just want to take a quick look. Any corrosion build up. Make sure the terminals are still good and tight. And then your master cylinder for your brakes is right in the back corner. Give that a little wiggle just to check your fluid level. That's all good. Just set that back in place. And we push towards the back of the vehicle. You hear it snap in. And that's it. Air filter is in. All right, so when you're ready to change the air filter in your LR2, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link that will, you can order that part direct through the website. And if you like our helpful videos, you can actually subscribe to our YouTube channel where we have a lot of other vehicles that will help you maintain your Land Rover. So we thank you for watching and Rover on.
Watch Doug go over the process of accessing the brake light switch on an LR3. Procedure is the same for the Range Rover Sport and Sport Supercharged as it is for the LR3. The brake light switch is something that is commonly replaced on these vehicles, so knowing the correct way to access and remove the switch can be very helpful.
How to remove and replace the brake pads and caliper guide pins on a Land Rover Discovery Series, II 1999 - 2004. Watch Jim as he demonstrates how to remove and replace the brake pads and guide pins on a Discovery II. The same process with work for a Range Rover P38, 1995 - 2002.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a Freelander, 2002 - 2005. Using money-saving kit #
BRKHOSEF1SKA, with all the brake hoses and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a Range Rover Full Size, 2003 - 2005 (L322). Using
money-saving kit # ABP221SKA, with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a Discovery I, 1994 - 1999. Using our money-saving
brake kit # ABP214SKA, with all the braided stainless steel brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, give a demonstration of the process involved in installing
new front and rear brake rotors and brake pads on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series II. Our money-saving kit includes brake rotors and brake pads for a front and rear service. Please note: This How-To video applies to all our brake rebuild kits for Discovery Series II.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part One (Extra)
Now that we have added a raised suspension for off-road use, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the standard brake hose on our project D2. Doug then upgrades with and installs our exclusive performance braided stainless steel brake hose (
Part # ABP218L) for Discovery Series II with raised suspension. Doug will also demonstrate how to bleed the brake system using the Hawkeye Diagnostic Tool "Power Bleed" Function. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain the process involved in installing the brake hose and brake fluid for a 2006-2009 Range Rover Sport (both naturally-aspirated and Supercharged). Using our money-saving kit # ABP350SKA, with all the brake hose and brake fluid you need, it is recommended that this service be performed every 105,000 miles. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Is the parking brake on your LR3 stuck? Watch Josh, Atlantic British Parts Specialist, show you a tip on how to disengage the parking brake on a Land Rover LR3, so that you can get around until you can get it to a shop for a permanent solution. If your parking brake actuator has failed, it's usually failed gears in the actuator. We can help you with that ! We have a complete
Gear Replacement Kit #DA9223 or the complete #LR019223G the Genuine Parking Brake Actuator with Cables and ECU, For Land Rover LR3 And Range Rover Sport, 2005 - 2009.
Are the horn buttons on your Discovery Series II worn? Are the boots on the hand brake and four wheel drive selector old and cracked? You can replace these worn items to spiff up your interior. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he demonstrates the removal and replacement of these parts on our Discovery Series II. Using
Horn Button Kit # HBD2A (includes two new horn buttons) and Boot Kit part # BOOTKIT (includes new hand brake and four wheel drive selector boots) for a refresh to your D2. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Kit # HBD2A and Kit # BOOTKIT On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, and I'm your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk a little bit about aesthetics. We have our D2, our Discovery 2 project behind us here. And one of the things you notice is as these vehicles are getting older is some of the wearable items on the interior are starting to show their age. And so maybe it's time to update or improve the looks. So what we've done, we've put together what we call a Boot Kit, and these are the 2 boots, 1 at the bottom of the parking brake lever, and 1 at the bottom of the shifter for the transfer case. And we've also added the horn button covers which are the HBD2a's. And they're a little different than the originals, they're smoother, they just have a little bit of a textured finish to them. They don't have the dimple and the horn on them, but they definitely improve the look because over time, just the acid from your fingers and whatnot can make those horn buttons look pretty dingy. So without having to replace the whole switch assembly and all, you can just replace the buttons. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to pop these in place, basically all you're going to need for tool-wise, maybe a plastic trim tool, small straight blade screw driver, and you're also going to need some super glue. The way these attach to the bottom of the original frames is we're going to be cutting away the boots and then super gluing the new boots in place. All right, now what we're going to do is start with the horn buttons. One of the advantages to the setup of the D2 is as long as the key is off the horn won't go off. Otherwise this would be, on some other vehicles this would be repeatedly going off while you're changing this button. Now essentially what we're going to do, if you look at the replacement button, which is essentially oriented just like the original. You just have 4 small tabs. 1 in each corner. They have a little knock on them so that they grab in place when you push it in. So what we're going to do is take the tool and work our way around it and lift that button right out of there. Now, you might want to have something underneath to catch or just keep your hand in a spot because you have a spring that's behind this, behind this small plate, that can twist and drop out of there once you get the button dislodged.As an example, we're not really replacing the boot in this unit. As you can see, it does need it, as a lot of them do at this point. So then, the bracket with the little loop on it, with the nylon straw, that's going to go to the bottom. And you'll see basically what you have with this little angle, is that angle sits against the lip at the bottom of the console. It should go forward a little bit. Then this just flexes in and pushes in. And you'll notice with this switch assembly out of the way this is just so much easier. And there you are. It's basically back in place. And all you need to do is take your switch back, screw it back on. Put your cover back on. You're done. So in the end you have new horn buttons. New boot. New boot. And it improves the look of the interior of your vehicle quite a bit. So when you're ready for a little weekend, it's really even a weekend project as you can see. It's a fairly easy kit to change over. Makes a huge difference with how the interior looks on the vehicle. So when you're ready to do so give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Get a complete tour underneath an LR3 V8 4.4L. Watch Jim as he identifies the various components of the LR3, identifying the air suspension compressor, emergency brake actuator, oil filter and drain plug, front differential, transfer case and shift motor placement and some parts of the air suspension system. Please note that the LR3 undercarriage is identical to the Range Rover Sport.
The LR3 and Range Rover Sport are showing their age. When the bushings on the lower control arms become worn, you will find the car does not handle well, and also, evidence of advanced tire wear will occur. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he discusses options you have for replacement of the lower control arms and the bushings installed in this arms, based on the tools/equipment you have or your how-to ability level. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Polybush vs. Regular Bushing Overview: Replacement vs. Buying Whole Control Arms and Parts On LR3 or Range Rover SportHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we are going to talk about lower control arm bushings, especially for the LR3s and the Sports. They're starting to show their age. We found a lot of vehicles where they've gotten so lose where they're starting to bang. bang. They are actually creating so much movement that the car doesn't feel like it handles the same way anymore. Advance tire wear. And then again a banging noise from the lower end when you step on the brake or when you accelerate. So, anyway. What we have are several options. And these options mostly are going to depend on your mechanical ability and the equipment that you have. You can start the easy way, and a lot of guys will go this option, is to replace the entire control arm. These are the 2 bushings in questions. Plus you end up with a new ball joint and a new control arm. Now you have a hardware kit in case the old hardware is in bad shape. We actually offer you all the hardware to install the control arm with the alignment cams, the nut and the bolts. If you opt to have just the bushings replaced, you want to rebuild the existing control arm, you can install the factory designed bushings and ball joint. Things is you will need a press to install these. So keep that in mind. Or if you have a friend with a press or a shop that will press them in for you that will be fine. The control arm itself isn't all that bad to remove, and if you refer to our video that we have in the How To videos, you'll see exactly how to remove this. And it will actually show you a way where you can cut out the bushings without having to use a press. The third option is going to be the polybush which we actually show you how to install in one of our How To videos. Because once you've cut out the original bushings, these actually just slide in place. You install the metal insert and then bolt back in the vehicle. So it's relatively easy. So then again it's all a matter of the shop equipment that you have, your mechanical ability, basically what option that you decide to do. What's nice about it is that we do have the hardware kit separate so that if you do opt for the polybush kit, you can use the factory designed hardware to install it. And then that will set you up so that you can bring it to your local shop. You get your vehicle aligned and then you're all set and ready to go. The polybush are nice because they are easy to install. They do change the ride a little bit. Mostly favorable. It might give you a little nicer ride on the road. The original bushings again, this will set the vehicle back to its original specifications. Or you can do the same with just replacing the whole control arm. And again refer to our How To videos and there's a lot of good information in there on how to change them over. So, when you're ready to do that repair on your LR3 or your Sport just refer to our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he explains a second step in approaching getting rid of the 3 Amigos on your Discovery Series II. In this video, Doug will remove and replace the
ABS Modulator Valve Kit part # SWO500040. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # SWO500040 Install ABS Modulator Valve Kit On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug. Your tech support representative at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about maybe the second step, or a better step in approaching getting rid of the 3 amigos on your vehicle. Now again we've stated any ABS fault is going to activate the 3 amigos which is essentially your ABS, your hill descend and your traction control lights on your dash. But, you use the fault codes to find out that in fact it is shuttle valve circuits that are creating the problem. Now everybody refers to this as shuttle valves which in essence it's not the shuttle valve itself but it is the shuttle valve actuator. And this is the 2 actuators that plunge and operate the 2 valves. In addition to that though, you have this intermediate block which also has all the solenoids that activate and pull the valves open on the system. Now what happens is should we get a little brake fluid in there, or just due to exposure, the 2 pin connectors inside that block which plugs into the shuttle valve actuator can get some corrosion on it, as well as the connectors here. So after inspection and you find you see some corrosion in there or you've pulled the shuttle valves apart and I know there are some test out there you can test these to determine if they are good or bad, that you may want to do the 2 piece set which we have as a kit. So you might want to look into that. What we're going to do is going to show you we've already shown you how to install the shuttle valve itself without disconnecting the brake lines. You can refer back to our video on that. But what we're going to do now is show you how to install this intermediate block. This also doesn't include removing the brake lines which you basically can get around. I'm going to show you how to do that. So right away you'll notice that the solenoid block doesn't have any hydraulic lines going to it. So we actually should be able to replace this without having to disconnect any of the lines. Before we do that though we need to lift this block so that we can unbolt the shuttle valve actuator underneath because that actually attaches electrically to the bottom side of this solenoid block. So first what we do is start off with push that tab and we pull the 2 electrical connectors. There's a little squeeze tab on the backside of this lower one. And that pulls that out. And get that out of the way. And even though it's really not necessary we'll take the brake fluid level connector off just to move that out of the way just so we know we're not going to damage the wiring. It's good to move that and get that clear. So you have 3 10 millimeter nuts. The back ones you'll need to remove. The front one is in a slotted hole so all we need to so with that is essentially just loosen it. And probably about 4 or 5 turns and that should give us enough slack to remove that.You can determine basically how hard they were to get out will help determine how much torque to put on them putting them back in. And generally I did it by hand and it works fine for me. But you may want to gauge how tight they are by how tight they were coming off. Alright just to finish things off you're going to make sure top put your 2 electrical connectors back on. Plug in your brake fluid level connector. And at that point you're done. You didn't brake the lines open so we don't have to bleed the system. You may want to clear the codes out of the ABS module. If you don't have that capability actually what it will do is, it won't necessarily clear the code, but it will keep the light off if it sees that the system is functioning properly at this point. If you should still end up with issues with the 3 amigos and they still come up as shuttle valve codes, then more than likely you're going to need the hydraulic unit. But we find for the majority of vehicles out there, this repair takes care of it. So when you're ready to take care of your shuttle valve issue, and you find you need the extra component that this kit will help fix it for you, just call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
In this video, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, will go over the installation of the re-flash module to remove dashboard codes after installation of our
coil suspension conversion kit L319SRK-OMEHL on our 2006 Range Rover Sport 4.4 (non-supercharged). This same install process also applies to the Land Rover LR3. Part #:7980 EAS Reflash Module Installation Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport Supercharged (Works On LR3) So when you're done converting your Sport or LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you're going to need to do what's referred to as a reflash, or inline filter. Basically to fool the system so that it will turn off all the warning lights, and the bells and whistles and everything. And everything else will operate. What it also does is it also maintains Terrain Response so you don't lose that. Which is nice. The only thing you do lose is the ability to raise and lower the vehicle at will. So, essentially what you'll be receiving is an EAS reflash unit. Refer to this. it's the 7980. It comes with the box. You'll also have a plug in pigtail. It's got 6 wires off of it that will need to be wired in. We're going to show you how to do that in a few minutes. And that's essentially it. And then through a small process you'll be able to reflash this unit so that you'll be able to drive away without having all the warning lights on. So we're going to start off with showing you how to access and where the location of the right lower control module is because the wiring going into that module is where we're going to be cutting into, and splicing into to make this work. All right, so we have the vehicle started. And you can see the warning lights you have on. Red brake light. The ABS light. The steering angle sensor. The suspension light. And all those are related, especially on these newer vehicles with these networks. They all talk to each other. So, now you've seen the lights. Now we're going to show you the Terrain Response, which the lights are out because it also sees a fault there. All right, so, here's your Terrain Response selector on the center console. And you'll see I'm going to move this bright light away just for a second, and you can see there are no indicator lights on that. So you've essentially lost Terrain Response. And we're going to go through the reflash and get that back. So to get started we're going to need a few basic tools. A straight blade screw driver. Phillips screw driver. I would prefer you use a nylon trim tool as opposed to metal. And then a quarter inch drive ratchet extension. This is a 10 millimeter deep swivel head. You can go with a regular deep with a shorter extension. This is just the set up I like to use. And an 8 millimeter deep quarter inch drive socket. So you start off with taking a straight blade and we're just going to stick that underneath that. This is your foot rest. This pops right off. Now, what that does is that exposes to 10 millimeter nuts that are going to hold this foot pad in place. So we grab our quarter ratchet. And the reason I go with the deep is because you've got probably about 3/4 of an inch of stud past the nut, so a regular socket will be a little to shallow to get all the way on the nut to get it off. So we've got one. Also, 1 more tool you're going to need is going to be a T25 torx driver. There's a torx head bolt that holds the hood release level on.Okay, so we've got one fault that's activated. Directional Stability Control, the Terrain Response is on which is good. And we're in coil mode because our lights here are out. So let's clear out the codes and double check and make sure everything is good. All right, so in many cases, even though you saw where Terrain Response was on, we had some codes that were showing up on here, essentially we did 2 or 3 restarts, and the vehicle actually cleared the codes out all by itself. So I have no warning lights on. We have Terrain Response. We have our high-low management here for our transfer case. And you'll notice that no lights here. It tells you that we are in coil mode. So we're actually good to go. So we're going to find a nice spot up in that upper area. We'll wire tie the box so that it's not hitting anything or rattling around under the dash. And it's simply just reverse your process for reassembly, just the way you took it apart. Once that's done, you're ready road test this and take it for a ride. All right, so when you're ready to convert your Sport or your LR3 over from air suspension to coil spring, you can call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and order it online. And if you like our helpful videos, you can click on here and this will take you to our YouTube channel where you can subscribe and see a number of videos that we've produced. So we thank you for watching, and Rover on.
Atlantic British Ltd. Repair & Maintenance Academy How-To Video: Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, explain front wheel bearing failure on a LR3, 2005-2009. He goes on to discuss how to resolve this common issue with replacement of the front hub bearing assembly. This replacement of the hub bearing assembly is also valid on a Range Rover Sport, 2006 - 2009 and Land Rover LR4 2010 - 2016.. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Front Wheel Bearing Failure and How To Install a New Hub Bearing Assembly on LR3 2005 - 2009 or Range Rover Sport 2006 - 2009 Hi I'm Doug your tech support representative for Atlantic British. And in the video we're going to address something that shows up quite a bit, that I find any way, on the LR3s and Range Rover Sports and that's front wheel bearing failure. Now, you can replace the front wheel bearings on these by themselves. I know there are some areas that you can get them, but generally when you try to press the old bearings out and press the new ones in, some damage is done to the new ones. It's always better to just replace the hub assembly. It also makes it a much easier installation. Now the first way to find out if I actually have a bad wheel bearing or not is you hear growling noises from the front end, you can hear a loud brake squeal on corners and what that is from is from excessive movement. Now you want to verify that - you jack your vehicle up. You can either jack up by the frame, or if you're dealing with a floor jack slide that under the lower control arm, get the front wheel off the ground. Okay, so caliper is mounted. Brackets back in place. Make sure your hoses are back in their little retainers. You have a small yellow retainer, usually on the brake hose to hold one of the cables in place. Your pad sensor is in place. Caliper is tight. Nut is tight. Nut has been crimped. Retainer screw for the rotor in place. Now you're just going to put the wheel on. One last thing to take note because you have pushed the pads in to remove them off of the rotor, when you first get in your pedal is going to be rather low. Before you move the vehicle, start it up, pump the pedal a few times, get your brake pedal back up, and then you're good to go. So again, this is how you're going to replace the hub assembly on the front of your LR3 or your Sport. When you're ready to do so give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and thanks for watching.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an Android device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the Android device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smartphone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On Android Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more:checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so we're going to show you how to set up your new iLAND on an Android system. And essentially what will happen is when you get your Android tool, you're also going to get a set up sheet similar to this that's going to basically take you right through. This is an easy quick start guide. And what we'll start with is, you're going to turn your phone on. And we'll get on the screen. Now where you would go is you would go to your play store, your Google play store on your Android system. And then this will essentially put you there. It will have a search on top. And just put in iLAND diagnostics. And it will put you on this window. And we've all ready installed, but normally this would, this box on the left going to tell you install, hit that, let it do its thing. And then essentially you go back. And you will look for your icon right on your screen. So we'll hit that. We'll go back on that. And it's going to put you on the screen here. In fact let's back this up one. It's going to give you a screen that's going to essentially look like you're going to log in. But you haven't developed your registration yet. So down here, just below the log in box, you'll see sign up. We'll hit that. And then what it does now is put you on a screen. You're going to enter in your email address. This is the address that will be designated for this phone so once you enter it it becomes basically a permanent address. So we're going to do that. And we're going to go to the next screen. So you've entered your email address. The next screen you get is going to be verification. It's going to ask you to enter your received verification number which is right here. And we'll just punch that in. And then we're also going to set a password in here and it states 6 to 20 characters, doesn't say anything else about capitals or letters or numbers or whatnot. So just 6 to 20 characters will be enough for an adequate password. So now you've entered that. You're going to hit done. So the next screen now for the complete the info, this is a register this under your name, so your going to enter your first name, last name and zip code of where you live. So after entering your name and your zip code and you hit done, it's going to put you at one point it is going to tell you to pick a vehicle, but before it does, if there's any downloads, or upgrades available on this particular veh, on this particular set up, it will automatically set you up and sure enough, here we are, and we actually have a download available, so we're going to hit download. Let it do the upgrade and then we can get into picking our vehicles. Now, in case when you do finish your registration and whatnot, and there isn't a download or an upgrade available on that, at the time you'll get this window, it will just simply tell you sign up succeeded. And it will tell you to activate, welcome, to activate your dongle and you will have more functions. I'm going to hit that. Now it's going to ask for the serial number and the activation code which you will receive in the dongle box when you get your new iLAND. And this will come with your iLAND diagnostic tool. And there will be a product serial number, and then on this side the private / confidential which will be the verification number. You'll need to open up and underneath will be the verification number. And that's what this is asking for now. So we'll type in those 2 numbers. All right. So at this point now, you're going to get the screen that will ask you to choose your vehicle. Being that this unit is all ready set up for pro, it's all ready set up for all Land Rover vehicles, if you purchased your iLAND for a single vehicle. Of course now you choose your vehicle now, say either Range Rover, Discovery, whatever your vehicle is. Once you choose that it's locked in and you cannot change that. That remains constant on the vehicle. That's all you're going to have. So at this point now you've downloaded the app, you have the app, you have the vehicle choice, so now we're going back up to Bluetooth and link you up with the dongle. So when you get on your Bluetooth screen. First you're going to go to settings. You go to Bluetooth. You're going to look for available devices. You'll hit that and what it will do is a search. And then it will pop up the serial number on your dongle. And then at that point just tap that and it will pair it up. Now that we're paired, we have our app done, we can go back to our main screen. You see our iLAND and again I'm going to spell it out - it's i-l-a-n-d. There's no s in there. And go hit on the app. And basically we can now hook up to any vehicle. The first time you go into your vehicle, it's going to give you what they call workshop warnings. And these are basically just safety items that they want you to be aware off. And you'll hit accept. And then a warning using battery charger and whatnot. Just read through that. These are certain little guidelines. We'll hit accept. Please wait. And now everything is just going to load up. And there you are. Now it'll even show you if there is another version available, it will do automatic updates. So it's all ready loaded the newest updates so we can trash can the old one. We'll confirm. We'll take that out. So now we're on the latest and greatest. And you'll find that there will be updates as you use this constantly. They're always looking to improve the tool. So we'll hit confirm. And now it's going to set up the updates and get it all. Once the updates are loaded, you'll be able to get on the vehicle and be able to start your diagnostics. And that's basically all there is to it. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
In this video, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install the iLAND Diagnostic App on an iOS device and pair the iLAND Dongle to the iOS device. iLAND, advanced diagnostics for your smart phone, is the next generation diagnostic app for Land Rovers! Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
How-To Install the iLANDApp On iOS Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to talk about the new iLAND diagnostic tool. Now this is a tool that's going to be exclusive to Atlantic British. It utilized Bluetooth, so you're just going to be using your iphone or your Android system phone. Or even your ipad, ios ipad, with a dongle that simply plugs into the diagnostic connector in your vehicle. So it's small, it's portable. It has a tremendous amount of capabilities on it. Just to give you an idea, the system coverage is more than 6 pages. The special functions, there are over a thousand special functions when you combine all the Land Rover vehicles. And the fact that it's on this little dongle means you can through this in the glove box of your vehicle and should you be on the road and have a problem, you always have your diagnostic tool with you. Because you'll always have your cell phone in your pocket. So it's a fantastic idea. So what we've done is we've put together 2 packages where you can either purchase an individual Land Rover vehicle to run on your system, or you can go the pro version, if you're a shop or you're working on a lot of Land Rovers, that you encompass the whole range of Land Rovers so that you always have whatever you need on the unit. So what we're going to do now, if you'd like, you want to follow the video, we have a little run down of some of the special functions that we thought would be of special interest to a lot of Land Rover owners. The iLAND app comes packed with over one thousand special diagnostic and programming functions for Land Rover vehicles. Popular special functions include: air suspension height calibration, tire pressure sensor replacement, oil service counter reset, service interval reset, engine adaption reset, transmission adaption reset, key programming, recover programmed keys, verify keys, security-keyfob remote functionality, parking brake setting and unjamming procedures, GEMS closed throttle position reset, height recalibration auxiliary heater control module. Find out more: checkout the complete list of systems coverage and thousands of special functions by vehicle model and year at: RoverParts.com/iland. And if you want to see the full range of features that the iLAND has, you can go to RoverParts.com and search for iLAND, and then it will give you access and you can actually even download and print all the system coverage and applications to the vehicles. As well as all the special functions. Okay, stay with me, and we're going to show you how easy it is to set up your new iLAND diagnostic tool. All right, so let's begin. I'm going to show you how to load up your iLAND program onto your iphone or your ipad. You're going to go to app store. And when you go to app store, at the top when you search you're going to search for iLAND diagnostics. And that's i-l-a-n-d, no s. Once you get on iLAND diagnostics, you'll hit install and you're going to install the app on your phone. So, now you've downloaded your app, you'll find your icon on your main screen, on your home screen. So we'll hit that. So now we're going to go through registration process. Looks like a log in screen, but you'll see here in the lower left sign up. Hit that. And now you're going to feed the information. Of course it will say USA if you're in the United States. And then essentially what you're going to do at this point, you're going to enter your email address and then it's going to ask you to do it twice to confirm the correct email.All right, so we're essentially ready to do the next step will obviously the pairing. So we're going to pair up the phone now with the dongle so that once the two are connected, you'll have full use of your iLAND. So what essentially you're going to go to your Bluetooth settings. All right, go to settings, pull up Bluetooth, make sure Bluetooth is on. And then when you do a scan, the serial number for your unit is going to appear on your screen. Simply connect to it. Once you've done that, you're all set. So we'll get out of settings. We'll go back to our main screen. Let's hit iLAND. And now immediately all our vehicles come up. So if you're using an individual, you're just going to hit that, say you set yours up for a Range Rover, hit Range Rover and that's going to put you on the screen that's going to allow you to do all your diagnostics. And that we'll cover further in other vehicles. For now we want to show you how to do your initial set ups so you can get started using the iLAND. So if you want more information on the iLAND, you can click on this link which will take you to our website. Or if you like our online videos and want more information on those or just simply want to view the videos you can go to this link and subscribe to our YouTube channel.
A common issue with Discovery Series II, is the shuttle valve failure on the ABS System. The failure is indicated when the warning lights come on for the ABS, Traction Control and Hill Descent, affectionately known as the "Three Amigos." In this video, learn how to say good-bye to the 3 Amigos. Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you options on how to tackle this common issue. He will remove and replace the Hydraulic Control Assembly (special order part # SRB500570 - formally part # SRB101203) on a 2002 Discovery Series II. Doug also discusses replacement of the
ABS Modulator Shuttle Valve Switch (part # SWO500040) in this video. Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Part # SWO500030 / Kit # SWO500040 Special Order Part # SRB500570 (formally SRB101203) Replacement Of Shuttle Valve And Hydraulic Control Assembly On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. In this video we're going to go a little more into depth about a common issue with the Discovery IIs, which is a shuttle valve failure on the ABS system. Now normally when these do fail or if a fault code is applied it will turn the 3 lights on, which will be your hill descent, traction control and ABS light, which are affectionately known as the 3 Amigos. Now this isn't the only reason that these 3 lights come on. Any fault in the ABS system is going to cause them to come on so obviously, should they come on, it's telling you the fault code has been set, you want to take it to a shop, or if you all ready have a code reader for the ABS system, you can call that code and if those codes indicate shuttle valve, we're going to go into a little depth here as far as what you may need to do to repair that. Now essentially what I have broken down here is the 3 different levels that you can get into on this system. A lot of guys will initially start with just the shuttle valve replacement. Now this is not actually the valve, but these are the actuating solenoids that open the valves, which are built into the hydraulic block. Now you also have the center block which holds all the solenoid coils which activate the valves, which are built in and sealed in the block along with your electrical connectors, both external and internal. As you can see that's what your shuttle valve assembly plugs into. Now, one of the issues is simply just the failure of one of these solenoids which you replace and adjust this part will be able to repair it. And you can replace this without having to replace all the brake lines off of the hydraulic block. We're going to show you how in a little while. The next step would be if you pull the connections and you see corrosion built up on any of these connectors or on the 2 pins inside, then you're going to want to replace this block as well. It's just like anything else. Once the corrosion is started you can clean it off but within a couple months or a month it's right back. And the lights are back on. So the only proper way to do it is to replace the unit. Now we have the shuttle valves available separately. We have the shuttle valve actuator and the block available as a kit should you find corrosion in there. And then the next step would be to have to replace the hydraulic block. If you remove the shuttle valve which is right there. The 2 solenoids go down through 2 sealed pistons which are the actual base of the valve itself. And those seals can leak. So if you pull this shuttle valve off and you find brake fluid built up on both sides, those pistons are leaking, your best repair is to replace the hydraulic block. Now we do make these available. We can get these on a special order. You would just talk to your salesman about that as far as getting this part.We're going to do what they call a conventional brake bleed. We'll have somebody either pump the pedal or you can use a pressure. I don't know if you've ever used a brake bleeder, pressurized brake bleeders. They attach to the top of the master cylinder. And with fluid apply pressure to push it through. And then we're going to have to hook up a diagnostic tool and do the power bleed. When all is said and done, hopefully we should have a good brake pedal and no more 3 Amigos. Again, I want to note this is not the only cause for the 3 Amigos. Any ABS fault will kick those 3 lights on, so it's always best, pull the codes first. Wheel speed sensors, circuit faults, things of that nature can also turn those lights on. So when you're ready to repair your 3 Amigos, if you want to put them out, and you've found out that your shuttle valves are the cause, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in performing the oxygen sensor (or O2 sensor) service on a 1997 Defender 90. Using our
money-saving kit # AMR6244SKA, with all the parts you need to do this service, it is recommended that the O2 sensors be replaced every 90,000 miles. Kit #: AMR6244SKA Replacing Oxygen Sensors On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on the O 2 Sensor Replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. Now it's recommended on the high mileage vehicles, as actually in Land Rover's programs, your usually recommended at 90,000 miles. So if you have a high mileage Land Rover, the Defender 90, Discovery 1 and the P38 Range Rover will use this kit. It will give you all 4 sensors. Your 2 upstream and your 2 downstream, which actually are the same O 2 sensors. And what we're going to do later in this vehicle is we're going to give you basics and tips on how to replace those O twos. Now we're going to show you the location and give you a couple tips on changing the O 2 sensors in a 1997 D90. Since the advent of OBD 2, most of your vehicles 96 and up are going to have 4 O 2 sensors. You're going to have 2 upstream ahead of the catalytic converters. And 2 downstream, behind the catalytic converters. Now on the case on this one, these are all the same size. These are going to be a seventeen millimeter wrench you're going to use to take these off. And you'll see the locations on all 4. Access is pretty reasonable on these. The only thing you might find a little bit is on the routing for the wiring to get to your connectors you should be able to get to all 4 quite easily. But always check the routing of the wiring before you take it apart. Before you take it off. So that when you install it, you're going to put your wiring in the same place. Most notably, when you look at the rears, where they run the wiring through the transmission mount so they don't get hung up down below. You really want them up in a protected area, but yet not high enough to any of the supports or any moving linkage under there. Now, essentially, and we're going to show you on this O 2 sensor right here which is the downstream on the number 2 bank or passenger side of the vehicle. They've been in there for a while. And you usually find a flare wrench is usually the best application to atleast crack it loose. It has a better fit on the O 2 sensor itself. It will cause less distortion. That's why they use these on brake lines as well. You're just going to slide that over. And it's angled, so it will actually give you some access to the other end. And you just take a medium sized ball peen hammer. And you can usually tap it loose. Some of these it will be. It is loose but not quite loose enough to turn with the fingers. So you can just grab a regular open end wrench. Spin it off rest of the way. Trace your wiring to the connector, which in this case is just up and over the transfer case but still relatively easy to get at. Just right up in here where my finger is. And the other side will be the same. When you do the fronts, probably your best bet is to remove the O 2 sensor and then lower the vehicle, or if you're on a creeper go back up top. Your connectors are actually fairly easy to get at. Behind each cylinder head up top. And we're going to tighten this back up. You don't need to tighten it with a hammer like you did to take it off. You'll feel it seat just like a spark plug. Give it a little push. Eighth of a turn. Now she's seated in. Again you don't want to over torque it and do any damage to the threads. That's pretty much your O 2 sensors. As we recommended early, it's recommended to change them every 90,000 miles. After a period of time they do get coated. They're not as efficient as they were when they were new. That affects your fuel mixture in your engine which again can affect performance and fuel economy. When you want to do your O 2 sensors and you're ready for the kit you can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210.
Outfitting a Discovery Series II for Off-Road, Part Six (Extra 1)
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, in Part Six (Extra 1) of our video how-to series, as he installs the
Baja Rack Jerry Can Holder on our project D2. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab. Outfitting A Land Rover Discovery Series II For Off-RoadHello. I'm Eric, a sales rep here at Atlantic British. Today we're going to talk about building up a Discovery 2 into an off road vehicle. They've gotten really affordable now. You can pick up a D2 for $3,500 to $5,000, put 3, 4, 5 thousand dollars into it and have a very good off road vehicle. This one we picked up a couple years ago. We've been driving it around, using it as a test mule. So now we're going to build it up into an off road truck. With Doug's help, we're going to put suspension, front and rear bumpers and then slowly build it up into a lifestyle truck. We'll have videos that will show Doug doing each process, and we'll post those as time goes on. This truck's in good shape. It's very straight for the year and we've had it for a few years as I've said. So stayed tuned and we'll have more information as time goes on.Part Six (Extra 1):Installing Jerry Can Holder To Baja Rack (BAJAFCH)Hi I'm Doug, you're tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And welcome back to Project D2. Now if you have been following the project, we've done a video showing the cargo rack for the Baja Rack for the top of the D2. And we mentioned that we were also going to be adding some accessories to it. One of the first accessories we're going to do - and this is a very popular item - is the Jerry Can holder. Now this unit can be mounted on either an open grid top like this one or it will even work on a mesh top cargo carrier or you can even use them on any of those mesh based add ons that will hook up to your trailer hitch. You've seen them mounted on the back of vehicles, it just simply looks like a tray. But this will mount on those as well. And it's a very easy installation, there's just several nuts and bolts. And what you have is a base bracket that can be mounted right on top. They give you the 2 clamps that will grab underneath and grab the side rail along with 4 additional clamps that grab underneath the cross rails. And they do a nice job because they also put foam inserts on all the brackets so they're not going to scratch up the metal on your cargo rack. You get all your hardware and they even give you a tube of grease so that you grease up the bolts when you put it together because this is exposed to the elements if you ever want to change its position or move it, with the grease bolts it's going to come out a lot easier. So it's nice that they put that thought into it. So this is a relatively easy installation. We have this on the ground so we can show you basically the location. Something you want to consider is that when you put a cargo rack on top you're obviously going to have a ladder in the back on the vehicle. So you don't want to put this where it's going to be blocking your access to the ladder. So in this case, the Discovery 2, the ladder is going to be coming up in the rear left corner, so we're going to mount this bracket over here so it's out of the way and you still have full access to the rack. So we're going to bolt this down and we're going to show you what it looks like completed. All right, so now we have the bracket mounted up. What I did is I'm going to show you on the bottom how the brackets looks. You have 4 cross braces underneath and along with the 2 clips that bolt on that grab around the side rail. So between the 4 mounts and the 2 add ons that grab the rail, that bracket's not going anywhere. That's a good solid hook up. So now we're going to set this down. And we're going to show you how to mount the jerry cans. All right, so here's the top view of bracket and how it's going to lay on top of the cargo carrier. And then we're going to take our first jerry can and set that in just like so. We'll clip this on. That will hold that in place. And then the second can. And we recommend when you put the cans in, obviously your open area, your opening is going to be up and not down. Lay our top brace on. And then we just thread in that large screw. You don't have to crush it. Just get it snug so that there's no free play or moving around. We'll set that in place. And then there's a safety precaution. They also give you a large washer and we put in a clip to make sure that can't back off all the way. So there you are. Your jerry cans are in place. Nice and secure. Not going anywhere. And it definitely adds to the look of the cargo. So when you're ready to add you jerry can adapter to your Baja Rack, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
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