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alternator videos
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, as he removes and replaces the alternator for a Range Rover Sport Supercharged 2006 - 2009. This replacement is also similar on the LR3 V8 4.4L and the Range Rover Full Size with the Jag engine. Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part #: YLE500390 Replace / Install Alternator Demonstrated On Range Rover Sport SuperchargedHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And in this video we're going to talk about alternators. Now something that I've seen come up on a pretty regular basis lately on some of the Sports and the LR3s is a failure of the alternator. Actually a failure of the diode in the alternator. And some of the most common systems of what I'm getting on the phone calls is an intermittent lighting of the battery warning light on the dashboard, and a sudden increase in the noise from the cooling fan. And essentially what happens is when the diode goes it induces an AC current into the system that the body control module basically interprets as energize the front fan. And so it will sound louder than you will normally hear it. So those are 2 of the symptoms that are starting to show up on a pretty regular basis. A lot of these vehicles are getting older. They're hitting the high miles. These alternators have seen 130 150 some of them 190,000 miles and it's starting to affect them. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you how to install an alternator on this from underneath. I know in the service manual the installation is a little more involved. We have some tricks to show you that will help you speed that up. And there's something else to look for while you're working in that general area. So let's get started. All right, so, right off the bat the first thing we want to do is disconnect the negative lead off the battery. Before I do that, and before you even get started, I did want to show you a tool that you're going to need to be able to release the belt tension you got to take off in order to be able to access to alternator. And this is similar, there are other models out there, but it's similar design, basically just a long thin bar with a 12 point cut out on the end of it. They'll come with different sockets for the sizes. You'll need a 15 mm on this. This particular application is going to basically apply to both the Sport and the LR3. Same design as the 4.4 engine. And then on some vehicles, and we may find we need to do it on this, there's essentially a plate that adapts to different angles on this and then is held in place by a bolt. That will give you an access angle that will get up to the tensioner to slip the belt off. We're not going to take the belt off completely. All we need to do is get it off the alternator. All right, we're going to start with disconnecting the negative lead off the battery. You have 2 tabs in the front that hold this cover down. Pop that out of the way. Simply pull that out. Negative lead is going to be the one closest to the back of the vehicle. It's a 13 mm. You can do it with a pair of pliers if you want. You just need to loosen that a turn or 2.As you can see you have 1 up there. You have the idler in the back. And on the power steering pump. And on the AC compressor. That all looks really good. So, we release the tension. Pop all this out. Make sure you get your tool out of that tensioner. Most times as I say I pop it out and sure enough it leaves that little extension in there. Always check that. Make sure you don't leave any under the hood. So essentially at this point your alternator is in. And all we're going to do now is put back the side cover that has the 4 plastic rivets, the front panel here. And the splash pan. And what I probably suggest you do at this point before you go putting all that back on, drop it down and start it up and make sure everything is working right and also make sure, put a volt meter across the battery. Make sure that unit is charging. But you should be good at this point. And this should take care of both that intermittent battery light and that noisy front fan. So when you're ready to install the alternator on your Sport or LR3, and I will say that the LR3 and Sport without the Supercharger is a little bit easier because there isn't so much plumbing in the way, just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, replace the serpentine belt (using item # ERR5579 ) on a 1997 land Rover Defender 90 (also applicable to Discovery I models 1996 - 1999 with 4.0L engines.) Doug will show you how to access and remove the belt, and then replace and install a new belt. This service should be performed every 75,000 miles.
Part #: ERR5579 Belt Change On Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and in this video we are going to touch base on belt replacement as part of your service and maintenance program. And in this kit you simply will be getting the replacement serpentine belt. Now this particular belt is used on both the 97 Defenders and the Discovery 1 4 liters. Now you'll see a part number ERR5579D and what we are going to do is show you the basics on belt replacement. Now I'm going to show you how easy it is to change the serpentine belt on your D90. This is a 97 with the serpentine, not with the multiple V belts. This is the belt you are going to receive in your kit. Your part number ERR5579D. Set that right there. First step is we're going to take this upper coolant hose; that will just slide up out of the way very nicely. You have 2 bolts that run down through the brackets that support the fan shroud. Normally, 10 millimeter heads on the 2. And the center section of this upper shroud is just held in place with 2 clips. One here - just going to lift up. Release that clip. Down on the other side you have the same style clip. You are going to roll this forward so that it clears so you can lift straight up and out. And this gives you pretty nice access to this. We've got enough clearance in there. Your belt tensioner, which is right here, has a 15 millimeter head on the nut right there and that's what we are going to turn to take the tension of the belt. Now it's a 15 millimeter, I use a long 15 wrench, gear wrench. There are a number of fan wrenches available out there. You just need something fairly long that will give you the leverage you need. You're going to push down which you see releases the tension on the belt. Slip it off of the top of the alternator. As a note, before you take the belt off completely, take a note of the way it is routed. Under the water pump. Under the lower pulley. Over the top of the power steering pump. Top of the alternator. And around the compressor. Once you loosen the belt up the fan is in the way. So you can loop the belt around the fan. Turn the fan until that area of the belt comes around. The fan will actually assist in that, help you out with that. Take this side off the power steering pump. Push it down to give it some slack. Then simply slide your belt out. Now this belt is in pretty good position. We're just doing this as demonstrative so you would essentially just take your belt out. And what I recommend, just a habit I got into all the years is take the 2 belts, end to end, stretch them out. You just want to verify you have the right size belt before you go try and install it and find out it might be off an inch. And this one is a good fit. You can see it is exactly the same as the original that came out. Set that aside. Drop this down so you can actually slip the bottom of the belt right underneath the fan. Which will then put us right around the bottom of the lower pulley which is where we should be. We'll start off there with the installation. Lift up a little bit and set the belt in the grooves. We remembered we went over the top of the power steering pump. We're going to take this piece on the right side and just run it here around the AC compressor, because that's where eventually it is going to go. And we went under the water pump, which means we have to go around the fan again. Fortunately with this upper shroud off you really have some room to work where you can put your hand down inside and push that belt down below the fan blades. It's a tight fit between the water pump and the lower pulley, which means you can feed in from one side and pull out the other. There we go. You want to check and see that we didn't slip off the bottom pulley. And as I say, we can get our hand down in there. Very good. Now make sure the belt is centered. You want to give it a good look because it could feel like it is on but you could be 1 rib over, which means after you put it on you'll have to take it all back apart again and readjust it. Okay, centered on both sides of the lower. Centered on the underside of the water pump pulley. Over the top of the power steering pulley. We're going to be between the water pump pulley and the tensioner pulley. Top of the alternator. Now when we go around the AC compressor you can unloop the belt from around the alternator because that's where you're going to end up putting it back on. And you hold up on that section of the belt to retain tension so that you don't slip off down below and have to do that again. We'll double check. We're still centered on the bottom pulley. Look good here. Look good here. Center the belt on the idler pulley. Again you're going to maintain tension, take your long 15 millimeter, push down to relieve the tension on the belt. Slide that on. Check for tension - that looks good. Again always double check and triple check to make sure your ribs are lined up where they should be, that your belt is centered on the pulleys and we look good. Essentially our belt is now on. All we need to do at this point is reinstall the upper shroud cover. Put your clips on. Your 2 bolts. And you have changed your serpentine belt. Now when you put this upper shroud in there's actually sort of a slot that it sits in. You want to make sure it is fully seated. And you will know if it isn't because you'll have a real hard time trying to clamp this clip. If it pops on that easy you know you're in place. Same thing with the lower. You'll feel it pop in. Clamp it. Put your 2 bolts back in to hold on the upper shroud. These are essentially just sheet metal screws that thread into the plastic itself. Put your hose back on. Make sure that when you put the hose back on that you don't create any tight bends, that you have a good looping bend on there so that it doesn't restrict the coolant. And there you are. You have a brand new belt on there. So when you you're ready to change the belt on your D90, give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210 and they'll be happy to help you out.
Watch Gareth, our Land Rover Technician, explain the process involved in changing the water pump on a Range Rover Sport 2014. This process and part also applies to late model Land Rover LR4 and Range Rover Full Size L495 vehicles noted below. Installation uses part/kit # LR097165GK , which includes the water pump, Genuine oil cooler pipe and Land Rover Genuine oil cooler outlet pipe O-Ring. After installation, Gareth goes over bleeding the coolant system. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Today's video is on engine water pump replacement on a 2014 Range Rover Sport Supercharged. It was established by the owner that the coolant level light was coming on continuously after topping off and under in a bit of investigation there was evidence of coolant leaking down into the lower engine compartment and at closer inspection there is visual leakage from around the water pump area. So today we're going to start off by removing the components that surround the area of the water pump. We're gonna start with the intake plenum, the air intake plenum rather. Which can be a little bit tricky. It has a couple of pipes on it that has some tight clips to remove. You have to take your time so not to break them. And then it opens up a whole lot more for access. I mentioned before about the pipes and clips that are hard to remove. This is the clip that is hard to access and remove. It's always good to spray it perhaps with a little bit of WD-40. It takes a tight firm squeeze on the outside to spread the tangs that lock it into place on the main intake pipe and then a little bit of wiggling to pull it off. Next step is to remove the main cooling fan. This one's fitted with a regular viscous fan, not an electric one. On a Supercharged vehicle the threads are counterclockwise to remove. On a normally aspirated one it's anti-clockwise to remove. So on the fan removal the shroud is a Halfmoon shaped piece. It has a screw, a quarter turn twist screw on one end, that loosens the main section of it. And then to get the other side unlocked out it's actually a slide backwards towards the engine as opposed to a pull of any kind. Once that's removed the main fan clip can be disconnected here. And then the main harness for the cooling fan can be removed. And then the fan can be taken out. The next step is to remove the belt off of the Supercharger here from the tensioner here. We're going to actually remove this front pulley here which is an idler pulley, which will give us better access to the rear main drive belt which actually drives the water pump itself. The tensioner for that is right here and it's turned towards the left to release the pressure from the belt. We'll pull the belt off, probably remove the tensioner so it gives us access to the screws at the back here which hold the water pump in place. Now with the first supercharger drive belt removed we're going to remove this pulley so it's going to give us more access to remove the water pump. Again we'll probably end up having to remove the tensioner here so we can access all the hardware that holds the main water pump on. Okay so removal of this idler pulley was a bit of a task. They can seize on and be quite tight we sprayed it with PB Blaster and shocked it several times around the outer circumference and also pried gently on the back edge of the lip. It did take some working to get it off. It did come off but as you can see even the smallest amount of rust on the spindle here can cause it to stick on. The part is off. It'll get cleaned up on the main hub and on the main spindle. So hopefully it's easier to remove and reinstall at future dates. So with the belt removed off of the pulleys the next step is to remove the tensioner here that obstructs a couple of pieces of hardware that needs removal from the front of the water pump to replace it. I generally leave the belt on in place to save time removing lots of other components whereas we're just going into the water pump area. So the coolant leak we can see now is quite exposed. The actual coolant is kind of solidified a little bit and almost turned to a gel. It appears to be coming from the back face of the water pump itself. There's a little bit of evidence up on the top here I can see also. You can see how it's been running down the front of the engine. So next step removing the coolant hoses from the water pump itself. There is a little plastic elbow that goes in here. This is a little sleeve you have to keep pressure against while you pull out the little plastic L-shaped elbow out of here. It can be left attached but I like to disconnect them so it doesn't get damaged while I'm working on the vehicle. Next step is to remove the big hose. I have a tool here just slip it underneath the hose so I can remove the seal from between the hose and the actual water pump itself. So the water pump is held in place by four retaining screws. There torques headed and there a t30 in size. It's always nice to use a little bit of an extension so you don't have to be crowded too tight into the into the engine area. I'm gonna put a ratchet on this to break them loose and probably spin them out with an air ratchet. So with all the four screws loosened and removed the pump should pull right out like that. And if you look carefully we see the evidence of probably what looks like the gasket has been leaking around the water pump here. We have this hard or gelled coolant. Oh, and also at the bottom of the water pump probably out of the seep hole. The next step after removal of the water pump is to remove and replace this small plastic black bypass hose that actually goes from the water pump to the supercharger coolers, water coolers, on the intake manifold. I's done by giving it a quarter turn. You can you see there's a Halfmoon shape plastic disc that locks it into place and then a gentle pull and it's out. You do have to ensure that in here there is a seal that goes on the pipe to the intercoolers, which actually got stuck on the pipe. I'm going to go and remove it right now. In the kit that we sell you get this new O-ring. That's actually on quite tight so it's gonna need some help to get off. This is the seal that was stuck on the pipe that goes to the intercooler. They kind of get hot and glue themselves on a little bit. A little bit of leverage and it pops right off. So the next job is to remove any dirt, debris, the gelled up coolant. As you can see in this area that was leaking from around the gasket and, of course we've got some old tree seeds that have managed to find their way into the engine area here. It would be nice just to remove it and clean it up a little bit. So this is the new water pump that we're going to install. It's an OE water pump. As you can see it comes with the new gaskets, new hardware to install. This is where the plastic elbow goes that we removed from the old one. This is the new bypass piece of pipe that goes it into the cooler pipe and then it's turned a quarter turn to lock it into place. However not forgetting the all important seal that needs to go on there first. Once it's on, or during, just before installation I like to put a little bit of lubricant around the main seal so it'll slide into the bypass pipe nice and easily. So the new seal is installed onto the bypass pipe that goes to the coolers in the intake manifold. Then the short plastic bypass hose goes on to that. It can be a little bit firm push. So the bypass hose is pushed on and as you can see this Halfmoon disc has to go almost horizontal and then to lock it in place you give it a quarter turn so it can't slide off. Next is the install of the new water pump. I'm going to slightly lower it and locate it into place. It can be a bit fiddly. So the new water pump is installed on. I'm actually going to tighten it up hand tight initially so everything is comfortably fitted to the engine and then I'm going to do my final torque and then we're going to reinstall the coolant hoses. So here's the elbow, the plastic elbow hose for the small bypass hose that we took off earlier. It literally just pushes into place. You just spin it around to locate it to the right orientation and then the old hose gently has to be slid back over it like so. Now to reinstall the tensioner that I took off so we could access the water pump hardware goes back against the block here. There are locating dowels here and here which will go into already cut out holes here and here. So the next step after installing the tensioner is to make sure the belt is on properly. It routes around all the outside of the v-belt pulleys, around the crank, back underneath, around and over an idler here, around the alternator and back over the top of the water pump. So the idler pulley is reinstalled as you can see. I generally put it on loosely initially just so I can actually align the bolts to the back flange holes. If you're have in difficulty with that a nice, short small old screwdriver will do. that you place through one hole and place through the other hole just to get things started. Then you should, you know, you can be pretty much ensures you can start screwing in the screws and tighten it up. I tighten them down evenly and squarely to make sure that the pulley goes and seats nice and flat against the back flange. Alright the install of the next belt which is the supercharger drive belt, goes around the main crank pulley up, around the tensioner, over the top of the idler here, and then around over the top of the supercharger drive, and back around the loop of the idler pulley that we just reinstalled. So we have the belt reinstalled back on the supercharger, around the idler on the tensioner, around the main idler pulley. The pulley is now tight with the three screws. The next step is to reinstall the viscous fan and reconnect the electrical connector to it, bearing in mind, again, with it being a supercharged engine, to retighten the fan it's a right-hand thread to tighten, whereas if it were normally aspirated it's a left-hand thread to tighten. So we now have the viscous fan screwed back on. It does, it can be a little tricky so do take your time again with it being a supercharged version it's got a regular right hand thread to screw it back on, left hand to undo. Whereas the normal aspirated one again to put it back on it's a left hand thread and a right hand thread to take off. Next is the electrical connector. Which locates in the fan shroud, and is obviously being a little tricky to install. Now to install the top part of the Halfmoon shroud on the top of the radiator fan shroud. A you can see it has a almost a full moon shape slot it sits into on the main shroud. It has to be slid in forwards towards the front of the car and then a quarter turn screw on the far side to lock it into place. Next install the plastic intake plenum. The only tricky thing about this is is aligning the breather pipe that goes on here. My advice is to spray a little bit of penetrating oil on the pipe seal that clips onto here which will aid pushing the pipe onto the main housing. And when it goes on firmly and securely you'll hear it actually click into place. The intake plenum is all back on tight and secure. The clips are located properly holding the coolant lines for the cool of supercharger. Now we're going to just finish off by putting the two intake pipes on and we're gonna start refilling the cooling system and we're gonna start bleeding, start the car up and start bleeding the cooling system and getting it up to normal operating temperature. It's time to refill the reservoir with coolant. To do this properly of course remove the trim from the top of the reservoir because we're gonna need to access the bleed screw which is actually kind of hidden away a little bit down here. We fill the reservoir until it's full. Start the car up. Let it idle and then crack the bleeder loose until we start to see coolant slowly bubble out. Then close off the bleeder and continue to run the engine at an idle until temperature starts to rise. And then probably put the cap back on and bring it up to a high idle and constantly keep an eye on the temperature gauge so that the gauge comes up to normal operating temperature. If it happens to creep above that switch the vehicle off. Let it sit for a good couple of hours to hopefully and possibly burp out any air bubbles that might be caught in the cooling system causing it to perhaps get hot before it should. As you can see the air is starting to bubble out of the bleeder. I like to keep it open until I see maybe a good steady flow of coolant coming through. It may take a while so you do have to just keep an eye on it. So at this point now we have the cooling system bled out. The coolant level is at the correct level, at the max level reservoir. It may need, once the vehicle sits for a few hours with the engine off, it may need topping off, as any air that might be possibly trapped in the cooling system may burp through into the reservoir and and it may lower the coolant level down to a point where it may turn the light on. So it's always worth a check of the coolant level after it's sat for two to three hours and cooled off a little. And may be topped off. So if you find yourself in need of a new water pump and your water pumps leaking please give us a call at 1-800-533-2210 and talk to one of our friendly sales agents and they'll be able to set you up with a new water pump and any other needed parts you need to get the vehicle back on the road.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install Wiper Blades on a LR2 2008-On. It is recommended that the wiper blades be replaced every 15,000 miles and this video will help you install the front right and front left blades with the aftermarket design. Questions about this video? Call us at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Kit # 7503LR2 Install Front Wiper Blades (with Alternate Wiper Blade Fixture Design) On LR2 / Freelander 2 2008 - On, 6-Cylinder Gasoline, North American Specifications Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. And we're going to do this little video because we've been getting some word back - some of the aftermarket wiper blades for the LR2 are coming with a completely different design on them than the original equipment. They do fit, and they lock on good and tight, but the way apply is totally different and I know it has confused some people. So, we're just going to do this short little video to show you how to do the current aftermarket blades that we carry. There's the Lucas for the driver's side. And then the AllMakes for the passenger side. Now the original equipment design, which we have a video on, is very simple and easy. It's just 2 squeeze tabs in the back. You squeeze those. You lift away and you pull away. You'll see this little angled tab on there. Now on the clear vision Lucas, you can see that there is a huge difference in the application itself and how it's mounted on the wiper arm. Again, it does mount, and as you can see this is actually a much heftier design. And it's a simple slide on. You simply put this in line so that the tab grabs underneath this outer area and just simply slide it down the rail, and you're going to pull down until you hear that click. And should you want to take it back off, there's a button right here and you push this button down. And then that releases the tab, in which case then you can lift these off. And these are actually on pretty tight. These are good and solid. So you can see that's not going to come off. On the other side, we have a slightly different design, so we're going to go to the passenger side and show you how to put those on. Ok. So, on passenger side original equipment same application, squeeze the tabs, pull away, lift and out. Then on the replacement, it's going to be just the opposite. These little notched arms on the back of the wiper arm are going to drop down into slots that are built into the bottom of the blade. Now with these, you're going to have to push up a little hard, and then you're going to pull towards yourself until this front shoulder of the arm clears this raised area of the blade. Pull forward, sit that in. Then there's 2 little grab tabs right there that are going to grab that curved notch or tab that's on the front of the arm. You lock that in good and solid. And that's how you're going to install that blade. Now, this is just simply an instructional. We have had calls on this. They are considerably different than the original design. But they actually lock in very well and work very well. So, when you're ready to change the blades over, or if you've all ready received a set of these blades, this video's going to help you greatly.
Watch, Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, discuss the installation of the bolt-on trailer hitch receiver, Part # LR019990ABP, for all late-model Land Rovers including LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover Sport Supercharged. Doug will give the correct torque specs that are important for the proper installation of this hitch receiver.
Part # LR019990ABP Tips for Installing the Bolt-On Trailer Hitch Receiver For All Late-Model Rovers Including LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport, Range Rover Supercharged. New - includes torque specs. Hi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we're going to talk about an alternative we have to the factory trailer hitch receiver. What you'll see here is this heavy bracket that's a simple bolt on operation. Will meet the same towing specs. It's not going to reduce the specifications on what you're vehicle can tow. It's a simple bolt on operation. And then once you have this, and then of course your trailer wiring harness in place you'll be ready to tow with your LR3 or your Sport. So what we're going to do is we're going to show you essentially how to install it, what the proper way to install this is. And how it's going to look once it's mounted on your vehicle. All right, so before we begin we're just going to give a quick rundown on the tools you're going to need to install this. Which isn't really a whole heck of a lot. Now you'll see an impact gun. If you have access to compressed air that's great, if not you can use a long handle half inch drive ratchet. You have a 7/8ths deep socket, 3/4 inch combination wrench, 7/8th combination, a little hard blade scraper, wire brush, straight blade screw driver, and then this would be the most important tool you're going to have out of the bunch. This is a torque wrench, click type. You're going to need this to install because we have a specific torque that needs to be applied on these bolts to make sure that this is locked down properly. So if you don't have a torque wrench, I would suggest either buy one, or you could go to one of these automotive centers where they'll rent or sometimes even let you borrow a tool to do a specific job. So you want to keep that in mind because we are going to be talking about that when we bolt that up: what those specific torques are and how to set them up. So first thing we're going to do, well the first thing you'll notice, we've lowered the spare tire and that's going to give us better access to the bolt in the back here. So we'll take a straight blade screw driver. And you can actually pop these off by using a side of a quarter. Just pull that down. And that comes down out of the way. Now you'll see we all ready have the trailer harness installed, so now we're just going to be adding the hitch.You got 4 clips on top. And they just run up in those slots. I'm going to run the...Take the 2 retainers, you should see basically the slot is going to be straight up and down. And that will pop right into the, into the nuts. We'll close that down and this way you only really need to take this off, is to plug in your trailer wiring connection. And that's it. We're all set. Ready to go. We'll drop it down. Spare tire back up in place, ready to go. So when you're ready to order your bolt on trailer hitch receiver you can contact anyone of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. Or you can click on this link and do your order online. And if you like our how to videos, I would suggest click on this link and you can subscribe to our YouTube site and watch all our videos. So for now we thank you, and Rover on.
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to access and replace the power steering pump on a 1999-2004 Discovery Series II. The power steering pump, which is part # QVB500080OE is a common replacement item, and it is recommended that the hoses related to this installation be replaced too. Power Steering Hose Kit # 9397D2 , includes the pump to box, reservoir to pump, and low pressure hoses. Doug also covers the power steering reservoir (QFX100371) discussing issues that develop over time with this item. You will also need the ACE and Power Steering Fluid. Doug shows the genuine fluid STC50519 in the video. There is also now an excellent aftermarket alternative for this fluid now from Rock Oil that we recommend (and will save you a few $$.)
Kit # QVB500080OE Installing Power Steering Pump & Hoses and Fluid on Discovery Series II, 1999-2004, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug and I'm your tech support representative for Atlantic British, and in this video we are going to touch base on another very common repair, mostly on the Discovery 2s, Discovery 1s, P38s, any of the 4.0 or 4.6 engines, is power steering pump. You'll find that over a period of time there's several reasons why these pumps can fail. You may develop a bad power steering leak which is a wearout of the seal. Could be bearing failure, or an actual internal failure of the impeller or the drive unit internally. All right, so this is the pump that's going to be used on your vehicle. And essentially what you have here is most of your hydraulic system which is the pump, this is the gravity feed line that would run from the reservoir down to the pump, from the pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the power steering box, and then from the box back up to the reservoir. Now what happens is these can fail internally, you could have a leaky seal, or you can have a bearing failure. If it's an internal or a bearing failure I would generally recommend not only do you replace the hoses, you're going to take a good look at them when you take the system apart, but inside the reservoir, and I don't know how well you're going to see it on the video, but straight down inside you actually have a filter built into these reservoirs. If you have a pump failure or a hose failure, and these hoses can wear internally, they're just strictly rubber hoses. That material will build up on that filter. And that's basically there to keep those contaminants from going through the system. Eventually that filter can get plugged up to the point where you won't get sufficient flow from the reservoir down to the pump and create a whining, or an erratic steering. So if you've got 100,000 miles on it and you're replacing the pump due to a failure, or you've had a hose collapse internally, you want to get that reservoir as well. Make sure you have a good clean filter in there and it will help the system operate. And also importantly is the fluid that's used in the system. This is fluid supplied and made by Land Rover called Active Corner Enhancement Power Steering Fluid, or short ACE Fluid. And what will happen is if you use regular power steering fluid or Dexron 3 in these pumps, over a period of time it will cause internal damage. They're not made to be used with that fluid. This is the fluid that is specially formulated for the system, that can make a world of difference on how long it last you after you do a replacement. So what we're going to do now is going to show you how access and replace the pump, how to access the hoses and then do some visual inspections to give you an idea if you should be replacing other components as well. You'll see some bubbling in the top fluid, because we know we definitely pushed some air through there. Now we're just going to let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes, let that air bleed out of the system, And then you can cap it off. And you should be ready to go. What I suggest is take it for a test drive. When you get home shut it off. Let it sit for a few minutes. And then double check your height. You may use a little bit more fluid. You may need to add just a little bit to get it to the full line. As of that, you've replaced your power steering pump, saved yourself a lot of money and ready to go for another 100,000 miles. So, when you're ready to change over your power steering pump or any of your hoses, just call any of our knowledgeable salesman at 1-800-533-2210. Thanks for watching.
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Due to corrosion from and around the battery on your 2002 Discovery Series II, your battery cables may not connect as well as they used to. Rather than resorting to replacing the entire expensive battery harness, watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, show you how to install this cost-effective battery cable adaptor kit (# YSB108490K) . Questions about this video? Call our knowledgeable sale staff at 1-800-533-2210 or contact us via the question tab.
Part # YSB108490K Battery Cable Repair Kit On Discovery Series IIHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative here at Atlantic British. I want to show you a little innovative part that we just introduced. It's going to be labelled a YSB108490K. What it is is a repair kit for the battery cables on the DS2. Where you have the 2 heavy cables going into 1 connector at the positive side of the battery. Now, up until now your choices were either go to your local auto supply and get one of those cheap little lead connectors and then fool around with trying to get the second cable hooked up which you never really get a good add on connector to handle the type of power that line and that cable is supposed to use. So the other alternative is to buy the whole harness which can be over a thousand dollars easily. So, what we've done is we have come up with a kit that will allow you to properly hook up both the cables that go to the positive lead, go to a single connector with a good heavy connection. And then with a ridged hole in the connector itself so you have a good positive lock on the positive post on the battery. So this is a nice alternative. Very heavy duty and also done very well. The finish on it is very nice. It is marked where you can either put a negative or positive marker on it. In this case we're going to be using it for both the positive cables so we're going to go with the red and we're going to show you how to install that in just a second. All right, so what we have here, this is a 2002 Discovery II, 4 liter engine, got the BOSCH. Battery. Typical condition. We got green fuzz growing all around the bottom of the positive connector. And what also happens is you've started to get some green corrosion building up between the cable and this connector. Now, these are stamped from the factory. They insert the wire. They crimp it down. But you can get moisture and salt up in there which will eventually cause these to corrode out. Happens quite often.All right, so at this point we've got our connection made. We have our 2 connectors on here. You can see this is a nice solid hook up. It's got a nice finish. This is something that is going to last considerably long period of time. You didn't have to buy a $1,400 harness to replace just the 2 ends. This is the best way to go. So, all we need to do now, we're just going to clean up our battery terminals. We want to make sure while you have them apart, now's the best time to do it. You can pick up these little battery brushes any where. And you're just going to run that up inside. We'll clean that up a little bit. Having a clean battery makes a huge difference to how long your battery is going to last. There will be no voltage loss across the top. We'll clean up the tube. Pop that back on. Don't be alarmed if you see a tiny little spark when you first connect it. That's just a connection between all the modules. There's always a little bit of parasitic draw, so it's going to happen. Get that good and snug. And we give it a little wiggle, make sure that's on there good and tight. So, we've done a repair on our battery cables, we've got a really good connection on both and this is something like I said that's going to last for a considerably long period of time. Plus it's rather attractive looking. It's got a nice chrome finish to it. Really nice set up. So, when you're ready to do proper repair on your battery cables on your D2 just give a call to any of our knowledgeable salesmen at 1-800-533-2210. And thanks for watching.
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