Rover Resources Center
Spark Plug And Tuning Kit Service On Defender 90, Range Rover Or Discovery I
Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, go over the steps involved in the spark plug and tune up service on a 1997 Defender 90. Using kit # 9207, which includes
8 spark plugs and a set of ignition wires, it is recommended that this service be performed every 30,000 miles on a D90. Kit #: 9207 Installing the Spark Plug & Tuning Kit on Defender 90 1997, 8-Cylinder Gasoline, North American SpecificationsHi I'm Doug, your tech support representative for Atlantic British and as part of our service and maintenance kit program we're going to show you the kit that you will be receiving for your tune-up segment on your Defender 90. Now that is going to be kit number G. Kit number is 9207. And you'll be receiving our most popular spark plugs cable set. These are cut to match the same length as the original equipment. Also pre numbered so you know what cylinder they go on, and a full set of Champion spark plugs. In a few minutes we will show you how to install that on your vehicle. Okay, so now we're going to give you the basics on the installation for the spark plug wire and spark plug tuning kit. This is kit 9207, this is for the 1997 D90 with the 4 liter GEMS engine. Now if you are not sure if you have GEMS or BOSCH - which you wouldn't have a BOSCH engine in the Defender, but there are other models that would have both - you can go to our previous videos and our friend Jim will show you what the difference is between the GEMS and BOSCH engines. What we're going to do on this is essentially - and this is relatively easy. If you have ever changed spark plugs, these have the thirteen sixteenth head plugs, these are not the smaller five eighths. I usually recommend because I've noticed a lot of these spark plugs don't come with the cardboard protection any more. Before you install a plug, you always want to check the gap. Take 10 seconds now to save yourself a half hour later. And it's nothing more than a relatively inexpensive gauge. You can get these at any automotive center. One side will have this broken into fractions of an inch. The other side will be metric. And in this case they actually give you an English version of the gap which is point zero three three to point zero three eight. So you just want to slide that over and up. Now you can see you are actually a little on the high side here. So you just want to give it a tap. Knock it down a little bit. And now we are point zero three seven which is perfect, we are within the range. So now we can install this plug. We're going to show you how to change a plug and put your spark plug wires in. Now change the plugs - I usually find if you haven't done this on a regular basis you're going to do this just one cylinder at a time. It's much easier. Now on this particular engine, the four o and the four six, the cylinder location is going to be the same on both. And you're going to have your even number cylinders on the right hand side, which will be 2, 4, 6 and 8 and your odd number cylinders on the driver side. 1, 3, 5 and 7. What's nice about these sets and actually the original equipment wires will be marked with the number cylinder that they correspond to. So, when you take this apart and doing one at a time, you can remove your spark plug, you know what number cylinder you have, trace your wire back, there's your location on the coil, remove that one wire and then when you're done changing the spark plug re-install your new wire with that corresponding number. And then you're going to do each one all the way around. We have our thirteen sixteenth swivel head socket, long extension, our spark plug is off, our spark plug wire. We're going to slide this down, hook up to the plug. Now this one may come out reasonably easy. We actually just recently put plug wires and plugs in this vehicle. You're going to put a little arm behind it. Now if you don't have the swivel head socket and you don't have the long extension, you can get down there with a ratchet and a regular straight socket, spark plug socket and a short extension. And fortunately on these there's quite a bit of room to get down in there so you'll have plenty of room to work. Now again I'm going to keep reiterating being that this is a Defender, you don't want to be putting anything down outside of this mat, and definitely nothing heavy on top. These aluminum fenders can imprint. Now, there's essentially our plug. This is a relatively new plug. But if you are doing spark plugs on your vehicle now's a good time to read the plugs. It will give you a good idea as to how your vehicle is running. We have a nice even tan burn. We have a little bit of carbon built up which is normal. No heavy soot. And no bright white porcelain which would tell you that you are running lean. No heavy soot that will tell you that you are running rich. This is a good running plug. Now as I said, we just recently put plugs in this so we're going to put this spark plug back in. But I'll show you a nice little trick, just in case it gets a little awkward and I found this works especially well on vehicles with tight space. This is a piece of three eighths heater hose. Basically four or five inches. You can actually use a much longer piece if you want. It fits just right over the porcelain of the plug. This gives you a little bit extra reach. Feel around. You feel the plug settle into the hole. Because trying to get your fingers down in there where the spark plug is could be a little tight. And you feel it will drop right in. And simply spin the hose. The plug will thread in. Now in this case this is threading in fairly easy because as I said this is all new, a fairly new plug. You can wet the end of your new spark plug a little bit. you can put a little drop of penetrating oil on there so that it threads in all the way. And you'll feel it when the plug stops turning. Simply pull the hose back off. Slide your socket back on. Reset your ratchet. And you'll feel it when it comes to a stop. And just give it a little quarter turn if that. Maybe an eighth of a turn. You'll feel it seat in. You don't want to over torque. These are aluminum heads - you don't want to take the threads out of the heads. Now you've had your spark plug wire off. You know where your location is. You're going to slide your new wire back up in place. You spin back and forth a little bit and you'll feel it seat in. Same with the spark plug end. I've actually found on some of these it's nice if you have some dry silicone spray. Just give it a little shot of silicone because it won't become a conductor for the electrical charge that's going to be set to the plug but it will make putting the boot on the plug a little easier. And you'll feel it seat in. And you just wiggle back and forth and you'll actually feel it drop in place. Clip your wire back up into your routing looms. Now you're ready to move onto the next spark plug. And you're going to do this all the way around. And when you are done you'll have a new set of wires and a new set of plugs. And you should actually see a little increase in your fuel economy. If you feel you're ready to do a spark plug and cable tune up on your vehicle, remember we have that kit and it is now on our new service and maintenance academy. You can call any of our knowledgeable salesmen. They'll be happy to help you out. You can call at 1-800-533-2210.
Applies To These Models:
Discovery I | '94-'99
Range Rover 4.0 (P38) | '95-'02
Range Rover 4.6 (P38) | '95-'02
Defender 90 | '94-'97
This video has been viewed: 947 times
for Exclusive Offers & Latest Deals
Please wait while we calculate your shipping cost.....
Sign-Up Now And Enjoy
YOUR FIRST PURCHASE
Thank You For Subscribing!Check your inbox for 10% off your first order.
You are already subscribed!This offer is only available to new subscribers.