Tech
Tip - AutoSharp Paint Pens® - Frequently Asked Questions Vehicle
- All
Q. How do I find my Land Rover Paint Code
and Corresponding Paint Name? A. Please check THIS
PAGEto help you find
and locate your Land Rover OEM Paint Code then call
us toll free at 800-533-2210 to confirm your
code and paint name and place your order. Identifying
the correct paint code and matching the correct OEM paint
name for your vehicle can be tricky and is the reason
why we only sell a limited selection of pens from this
website.
Q. How can I obtain the best results
with my AutoSharp Pen™? A. Always start with a clean car. Paint
will not stick to dirt or wax. If you are washing your
car yourself, use a natural
sponge or chamois for best results. Make sure the
car is dry. Wipe the area you are going to touch up with
a cotton swab dampened with alcohol.
Click Play for Video Below
to Watch Demonstartion and Get Tips on Using Paint Pens.
Q. Why does paint sometimes flow out
of the sides of the AutoSharp Pen when I depress the tip? A. This may happen if you press the tip
too hard on a surface. Remove excess from the side with
a shop towel or paper towel.
Q. Does the temperature make a difference
when I touch up my car? A. Yes. Never touch up your car in the
direct sunlight. The ideal temperatures are between 65
and 80 degrees.
Q. What if I don't like what I've just
done? A. Place a small amount of paint thinner
on a cotton swab. Gently wipe it over the area you just
touched up. You can shine up any dulled areas later on
with a little wax.
Q. How do I get a high gloss finish? A. Make sure every coat is dry prior
to applying another coat of paint. For an even higher
gloss, you may purchase one of our clear coat pens from
us.
Q. How long before I can wash my car? A. Wait at least 1 day.
Q. How should I store my AutoSharp Pen? A. Store the pen on its side and keep
it in a cool, dry place. Never keep it in your car.
Q. What is the difference between solid
paint, metallic and tri-coats paint? A.
Solids: Solid colors were the first
colors to be used on cars, and are still widely used
today. They have no metallic or pearl flakes added to
the color. Solid colors look the same from any angle.
Metallics: Metallic colors contain
very fine, sparkling metallic flakes. This makes the
paint glitter and sparkle. Metallic colors are very
popular in all makes and models today.
Tri-Coats or 3 Stage Paints: A tri-coat
or 3-stage paint has three different layers: base coat,
pearl coat and clear coat. The base coat can be a solid
color or a metallic color. The pearl coat is a translucent
paint with pearl flakes mixed in. The last coat is the
clear coat, which is a shiny see through paint. This
is also a protective coat from the sun. Tri-Coats show
slight highlights of diverse colors when you look at
your car from different angles.
Q. I have a metallic green car. Will
the AutoSharp Pen match the color of my car? A. Metallic and Tri-Coat paints will
always look different touched up versus sprayed on. When
spraying these paints, the metallic flakes will spread
out and lay down differently. If you touch up these paints,
the metallic and pearls will look more condensed, since
there is no air behind the painting process. AutoVisuals
makes your paint to the manufactures specifications, so
the color match will always be consistently good.
Q. What is a Paint Code? Can't I just
give you the name of the color? A. The paint code is a combination of
numbers and sometimes letters assigned by the manufacturer
of the car. To get the exact paint color for your car,
the paint code is necessary to have. Some of today's metallic
and pearl colors have multiple variances of the same color.
The only difference in the paint code could be a dash
and a letter. It is also necessary to have the paint code
and not the paint color because the factory may call the
color Mint Green Metallic for example, and the actual
specification color will be called wintergreen metallic.
Q. What elements can have a negative
effect on my paint job? A. The worst adversary of your car's
paint include the following three classes:
Rust: The catalysts for rust on your
car are water and salt.
Sunlight: The sun's UV rays are
the lead cause of sun damage to your car.
Acid Rain: This means airborne contaminants
caused by industrial fall out. These are dissolved in
rainfall or in overnight condensation.
Natural Hazards: Examples of natural
hazards are dead bugs, wet leaves, water from your sprinklers
and bird droppings. All of these have elements in them
to eat right through your paint job.
Q. How can I protect the finish of my
car? A. There are many things you can do to
take care of your car. Below are a few basic things to
do.
Always park your car in the shade.
Do not park your car under or near trees or factories
if possible. Sap or industrial fallout can make marks
in your paint finish.
Avoid driving on gravel roads; this will chip the
finish quickly.
While at the gas station, be very careful not to spill
gasoline or any other fluids that may damage the paints
finish.
Wash your car at least once per week with a natural
sponge and dry with a chamois to avoid scratching the
paint.
Put a coat of wax on your car at least every 6 months.
For best results, always use Carnauba
wax and apply with a cloth diaper or 100% cotton
T-Shirt. Either one of these will not scratch your paints
surface. Always apply wax in a shady area.
Keep your car covered as much as possible, either
in a garage or with a Land
Rover car cover.
As soon as you see a paint chip or scratch that is
through to the primer or metal, address it immediately.
Do this by first cleaning the damaged area with a cotton
swab dampened with alcohol. Then touch up the area.