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Range Rover 4.4 L322 ('03-'05) Coil Spring Conversion Kit Instructions

Applies To:

Item: L322SRK and L322SRK-A
Fits: Range Rover 4.4 L322 | '03 - '05


Kit # L322SRK shown with Performance Custom KONI Struts & EAS Overrde Module
Kit # L322SRK-A (not shown) features same as above kit, except Quality Custom Aftermarket struts (not KONI).

Parts included in Kit# L322SRK:

  • 1 - Front Left Strut # 90008LH
  • 1 - Front Right Strut # 90002RH
  • 2 - Top Mount Rubber Gasket
  • 6 - M10 x 1.50mm Nylon Locking Nuts
  • 6 - Flat Washers
  • 2 - Sensor Lead Mounting Clip (aka 'fir tree cable tie')
  • 2 - Coil Spring # 8021
  • 4 - Polyurethane Spring Seat Bushing
  • 2 - 3/4 - 10 x 4-1/2" Hex Head Bolt
  • 2 - 3/4 - 10 Hex Nut
  • 4 - 3/4 Steel Washer
  • 1 - Installation Instructions (this document)

Tools needed for kit:

  • Thin 18mm open end wrench (for behind the stabilizer bar bracket, see Figures # 17 and 18 at end of procedure)
  • 22mm Wrench
  • 22mm Socket (for air impact wrench)
  • 18mm Socket (for air impact wrench)
  • 15mm Deep Well Socket and Torque Wrench
  • 17mm Deep Well Socket
  • Spring Compressor
  • 1-1/8" Wrench
  • 1-1/8" Socket and Ratchet (or a second 1-1/8" wrench)
  • 8 mm Socket with Ratchet
  • Floor Jack
Table of Contents

Part I - Replacing the Air Struts

Part II - Replacing the Stock Rear Air Springs with New Coil Springs


Part I - Replacing the Air Struts


BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

Removal of the Stock Front Air Struts
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Lift vehicle such that the front wheels are suspended and not touching the ground.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Depressurize the air spring of the strut to be removed.

NOTE: The best way to depressurize the air spring is to use a diagnostic computer such as an Autologic or T4 System. If you do not have access to a diagnostic computer, observe the necessary caution in depressurizing the spring.

4. Pull the anti-lock braking sensor harness and the brake hose free from the bracket. (When doing this on left side of vehicle, also release the brake pad wear sensor lead.) (See Figure 1)

Figure 1
Figure 1

5. Remove the nut securing the stabilizer bar link to the damper. You will need to use the thin 18mm wrench behind the bracket to keep the ball joint from turning while using the 18mm socket on the nut. (See Figure 3)

Figure 2
Figure 2

Figure 3
Figure 3

6. Release the stabilizer bar from the bracket (make sure to note the location of the washer!)

7. Position a floor jack to support the lower arm. (See Figure 4)

Figure 4
Figure 4

8. Remove the two nuts and bolts securing the lower strut mounting bracket to the spindle and maneuver the strut / spindle so you will be able to remove the strut. CAUTION: Do not allow the hub to hang on the brake line. (See Figures 5 & 6)

Figure 5
Figure 5

Figure 6
Figure 6

9. From inside the engine compartment, remove the cap on top of the strut.

10. With the lower end of the strut supported (like in Figure 6), remove the three nuts securing the strut top mount to the vehicle and lower the strut to the point where you can access the air supply line to the top of the strut assembly. (See Figure 7 & 8)

Figure 7
Figure 7

Figure 8
Figure 8

11. Disconnect and seal the air supply line and remove the strut assembly. Make sure the paper gasket on top of the strut comes off with the assembly.

CAUTION: If the air spring was not depressurized with a diagnostic computer in figure 3, observe necessary caution when disconnecting the air line, as there will compressed air in the air spring. Be sure to use eye protection.

Strut Assembly Procedure
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. For safety, the strut is shipped unassembled in two parts. The strut and the spring are boxed as shown in Figure #1 and the top mount is packaged as shown in Figure #2.

Picture 1
Figure 1

Picture 2
Figure 2

2. Take the strut and spring out of the box and using a spring compressor capable of compressing the spring by 5 inches (from about 20 inches to 15 inches) compress the spring. (See Figures 1 #3 and #4)

Figure 3
Figure 3

Figure 4
Figure 4

3. With the spring compressed, make sure that the lower end of the spring is positioned with the spring tail nestled in the spring seat as shown in Figure #5.

Figure 4
Figure 5

4. Assemble the Top Mount components over the damper shaft as shown in the following table, and as seen in the series of pictures (Pictures # 6 through 10).

Table A
Table A

Top Mount Assembly Build Up

A. 1.875" Diameter Washer
B. Top Mount / Bushing
C. Bearing
D. Bearing / Spring Seat
E. 2.250" Diameter Washer

Figure 6
Figure 6

Figure 7
Figure 7

Figure 8
Figure 8

Figure 9
Figure 9

Figure 10
Figure 10

5. Make sure that the sticker on top of the top mount ("LEFT WHEEL" or "RIGHT WHEEL") is positioned such that it is aligned with the lower bracket. This is the bracket that will bolt to the steering knuckle when the strut is installed onto the vehicle. (Please see Picture #11) Tighten the top nut securely to a torque of 72 ft-lbs.

It is very important to make sure this alignment is correct.

Figure 11
Figure 11

6. The assembly is now finished and ready for installation on the vehicle. (Picture #12)

Figure 12
Figure 12

New Replacement Front Strut Installation
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Clean the top surface where your new top mount (with rubber gasket) will attach.

2. If not already in position, put the rubber gasket on top of the new strut and maneuver the assembly into position, lining up the three mounting studs with the holes in the strut tower. (It will help to have an "assistant" up top to thread the nuts onto the studs once the assembly is in position.) It may also help to use a socket on the center nut to rotate the top mount into position. (See Figure 9)

Figure 9
Figure 9

3. Line up the studs as close to the center of the slotted mounting holes as possible and install all three nuts leaving them loose for now. (See Figure 10)

Figure 10
Figure 10

4. Using the floor jack for support, line up the holes for mounting the lower strut bracket to the spindle. (See Figure 11)

Figure 11
Figure 11

5. Align the top hole in the spindle as close to the inside of the hole in the strut bracket as possible (maximum negative camber) and tighten securely. (See Figure 12)

(250 Nm = approx 200 lbs/ft)

Figure 12
Figure 12

6. Reconnect the stabilizer bar link using the thin 18mm wrench in back of the bracket as in step # 5 from the Strut Removal Procedure. (See Figures 13 & 14)

Figure 13
Figure 13

Figure 14
Figure 14

7. Clip the brake hoses and harnesses into their positions on the bracket.

Figure 15
Figure 15

8. Attach the ABS sensor lead to the strut bottom bracket using the senor lead mounting clip (fir tree cable) tie provided.

Figure 16
Figure 16

9. Tighten the 3 nuts on the top mount using the 15mm socket and torque wrench.

(Max Torque: 35.5 Nm = 26 lbs/ft)

10. Remount the wheel.

11. Check the alignment!

Figure 17
Figure 17

Figure 18
Figure 18

Part II - Replacing the Stock Rear Air Springs with New Coil Springs

BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

Air Spring Removal
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Raise vehicle with rear wheels hanging.

2. Remove wheel and support suspension with floor jack as seen in Figure 1.

Figure 1
Figure 1

3. Remove the top clip securing the top of the air spring. (See Figures 2 & 3)

Figure 2
Figure 2

Figure 3
Figure 3

4. Remove screw securing the spring to the lower arm. (See Figure 4)

Figure 4
Figure 4

5. Depressurize the spring using a diagnostic computer such as an Autologic or a T4 System. (If you do not have access to these tools, observe caution when disconnecting the air line in step # 8 below. Use eye protection, as there will be compressed air in the air spring.)

6. Remove the bolt securing the damper to the lower arm, (See Figure 5) and release damper from lower arm.

Figure 5
Figure 5

7. With the help of an assistant and a pry bar (to force the lower arm down), or with a bottle jack (See Figure 6), lower the lower arm to allow access to the air supply line.

Figure 6
Figure 6

8. Disconnect and plug the air line, and remove the air spring. (As stated above, observe necessary precaution if the spring is still pressurized.)

Rear Coil Spring Installation
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Using the spring compressor, compress the spring to about 14.00 inches (top and bottom spring seat bushings included). (See Figure 7)

Figure 7
Figure 7

2. Maneuver the compressed spring (with bushings) into place. (See Figures 8 & 9)

Figure 8
Figure 8

Figure 9
Figure 9

3. Be sure that you have the spring seated directly over the cup built into the lower arm (See Figures 10 & 11). There is a recess in the bottom of the bushing designed to fit over this cup.

Figure 10
Figure 10

Figure 11
Figure 11

4. You may need to force the lower arm down with the use of a bottle jack (observe necessary caution!!) (See Figure 12)

Figure 12
Figure 12

5. With the spring securely seated on the top and bottom, remove the spring compressor (being careful not to dislodge the bottle jack if used.)

6. Before removing the bottle jack (if used), secure the bottom bushing with the supplied ¾ inch bolt. Feed the bolt and washer between the coils of the spring and through the center hole of the bushing. From the bottom of the lower arm, thread the washer and nut onto the bolt. Tighten to 100 ft-lbs. (See Figure 13)

Figure 13
Figure 13

7. Remove the bottle jack, reattach the damper, and reinstall the wheel.

8. To turn off EAS control module, pull fuse 57 from passenger compartment fuse box. (See Figure 14)

Figure 14
Figure 14

NOTE: If any air suspension fault messages appear on the message center after the installation is complete, these can be cleared by disconnecting the battery ground lead and then reconnecting it after a short delay.

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