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Coil Spring Conversion Kit (Reuse Delphi Strut) Instructions

Range Rover 4.4/4.2 L322 ('06-'09)

Applies To:

Item: L322SRK-F
Fits: Range Rover 4.4/4.2 L322 | '06 - '09


Kit # L322SRK-F

Parts included in Kit# L322SRK-F:

  • 2 ea. Strut Spring
  • 2 ea. Top Mount
  • 2 ea. Lower Spring Seat Ring
  • 2 ea. Lower Spring Bushing
  • 2 ea. Top Mount Rubber Gasket
  • 6 ea. M12 x 1.5mm Flange Nuts
  • 2 ea. Sensor Lead Mounting Clip
  • 2 ea. Coil Spring # 8021
  • 4 ea. Polyurethane Spring Seat Bushing
  • 2 ea. 3/4 - 10 x 4-1/2" Hex Head Bolt
  • 2 ea. 3/4 - 10 Hex Nut
  • 4 ea. 3/4 Steel Washer
  • 1 ea. Installation Instructions (this document)
  • 1 ea. EAS ECU "In-Line Filter Module" Model (Part # 7980 version 2.0)

EAS ECU In-Line Filter Module Model
EAS ECU "In-Line Filter Module" Model (Part # 7980 version 2.0)

 

Tools needed for kit:

  • Thin 18mm open end wrench (for behind the stabilizer bar bracket , see Figures # 38 and 39
  • 22mm Wrench
  • 22mm Socket (for air wrench)
  • 15mm Deep Well Socket and Ratchet
  • Floor Jack
  • Spring Compressor
  • Radiator Hose Pick
  • Mallet
Table of Contents

Part I - Front Air Strut Removal

Part II - Replacing the Stock Rear Air Springs with New Coil Springs

Part III - Installing the EAS ECU "In-Line Filter Module" Model (Part # 7980 version 2.0)


Part I - Front Air Strut Removal


BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

Removal of the Stock Front Air Struts
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Lift vehicle such that the front wheels are suspended and not touching the ground.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Depressurize the air spring of the strut to be removed.

NOTE: The best way to depressurize the air spring is to use a diagnostic computer such as an Autologic or T4 System. If you do not have access to a diagnostic computer, observe the necessary caution in depressurizing the spring.

4. Pull the anti-lock braking sensor harness and the brake hose free from the bracket. (If left side of vehicle, also release the brake pad wear sensor lead.) (See Figure 1)

Figure 1
Figure 1

5. Remove the nut securing the stabilizer bar link to the damper. You will need to use the thin 18mm wrench behind the bracket to keep the ball joint from turning while using the 18mm socket on the nut. (See Figure 3)

Figure 2
Figure 2

Figure 3
Figure 3

6. Release the stabilizer bar from the bracket (make sure to note the location of the washer!)

7. Position a floor jack to support the lower arm. (See Figure 4)

Figure 4
Figure 4

8. Remove the two nuts and bolts securing the lower strut mounting bracket to the spindle and maneuver the strut / spindle so you will be able to remove the strut. CAUTION: Do not allow the hub to hang on the brake line. (See Figures 5 & 6)

Figure 5
Figure 5

Figure 6
Figure 6

9. From inside the engine compartment, remove the cap on top of the strut.

10. With the lower end of the strut supported (like in Figure 6), remove the three nuts securing the strut top mount to the vehicle and lower the strut to the point where you can access the air supply line to the top of the strut assembly. (See Figure 7 & 8)

Figure 7
Figure 7

Figure 8
Figure 8

11. Disconnect (and plug) the air supply line and remove the strut assembly. Make sure the paper gasket on top of the strut comes off with the assembly.

CAUTION: If the air spring was not depressurized with a diagnostic computer in figure 3, observe necessary caution when disconnecting the air line, as there will compressed air in the air spring. Be sure to use eye protection.

Building the Struts
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

Strut Disassembly:

Parts you will be saving: (See Figure 9)

  • a) Delphi Strut
  • b) Bump Stop

Figure 9
Figure 9

Strut Assembly:

1. Remove top nut.

Figure 10
Figure 10

2. Remove spring clip on lower mount.

Figure 11
Figure 11

3. Tap lower mount with hammer.

Figure 12
Figure 12

Figure 13
Figure 13

4. Slide air spring and sealing rings off of strut. You should have the strut as shown in Figure # 13.

5. At this point you can support the strut in a floor standing or a wall mounted spring compressor (See Figure # 14). While this makes the assembly a bit easier, it is not a requirement for assembly.

Figure 14
Figure 14

6. Slide the steel Lower Spring Perch over the top of the strut so that it rests on top of the welded spring support. (See Figures 15 & 16)

Figure 15
Figure 15

Figure 16
Figure 16

7. Slide the Lower Spring Bushing over the top of the strut. (See Figures 17 & 18)

Figure 17
Figure 17

Figure 18
Figure 18

8. Slide the bump stop into the bottom of the rubber strut boot. (See Figure 19)

Figure 19
Figure 19

9. Install the strut boot over the shaft (bump stop end first) as shown in Figure 20.

Figure 20
Figure 20

10. Work the lower end of the strut boot over the body of the strut, so that at least 1/2 inch of the boot is on the strut body. If you have a radiator hose pick, this might help you get the boot over the strut body. See Figure 21. Secure the boot with a cable tie. See Figure 22.

Figure 21
Figure 21

Figure 22
Figure 22

11. Feed the steel spacer and the polyurethane bushing into the top of the strut boot and over the strut shaft. Make sure the steel spacer is first and lowest over the shaft. (See Figure 23)

Figure 23
Figure 23

12. Compress the spring (with whatever spring compressor you have) so that enough of the strut shaft is exposed for you to install the top mount. (See Figure 24)

Figure 24
Figure 24

13. Position the compressed spring over the strut such that the bottom coil rests flat against the bushing.

14. Assemble the top mount over the strut shaft as follows.

Figure 25
Figure 25

  • A: Gasket: 2.5" ID, 3.88" OD, 0.18" Thk
  • B: Top Spring Perch
  • C: Bearing
  • D: Gasket: 2.5" ID, 3.88" OD, 0.18" Thk
  • E: Top Mounting Plate
  • F: Polyurethane Bushing
  • G: Steel Washer

15. With the Top Mount in place, thread the strut shaft nut onto the shaft, and fully tighten. See Figures 26 & 27

Figure 26
Figure 26

Figure 27
Figure 27

16. Fit the top gasket over the studs and the strut is ready to install. Figures 28 and 29.

Figure 28
Figure 28

Figure 29
Figure 29

Front Strut Installation
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Clean the top surface where your new top mount (with rubber gasket) will attach.

2. If not already in position, put the rubber gasket on top of the new strut and maneuver the assembly into position, lining up the three mounting studs with the holes in the strut tower. (It will help to have an "assistant" up top to thread the nuts onto the studs once the assembly is in position.) It may also help to use a socket on the center nut to rotate the top mount into position. (See Figure 30)

Figure 9
Figure 30

3. Line up the studs as close to the center of the slotted mounting holes as possible and install all 3 nuts leaving them loose for now. (torque: 56 Nm = 41 lbs/ft) (See Figure 31)

Figure 10
Figure 31

4. Using the floor jack for support, line up the holes for mounting the lower strut bracket to the spindle. (See Figure 32)

Figure 11
Figure 32

5. Align the top hole in the spindle as close to the inside of the hole in the strut bracket as possible (maximum negative camber) and tighten securely. (See Figure 33)

(250 Nm = approx 200 lbs/ft)

Figure 12
Figure 33

6. Reconnect the stabilizer bar link using the thin 18mm wrench in back of the bracket as in step # 5 from the Strut Removal Procedure. (See Figures 34 & 35)

Figure 13
Figure 34

Figure 14
Figure 35

7. Clip the brake hoses and harnesses into their positions on the bracket.

Figure 15
Figure 36

8. Attach the ABS sensor lead to the strut bottom bracket using the fir tree / cable tie provided.

Figure 16
Figure 37

9. Remount the wheel.

10. Check the alignment!

Figure 17
Figure 38

Figure 18
Figure 39

Part II - Replacing the Stock Rear Air Springs with New Coil Springs

BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

Air Spring Removal
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Raise vehicle with rear wheels hanging.

2. Remove wheel and support suspension with floor jack as seen in Figure 1.

Figure 1
Figure 1

3. Remove the top clip securing the top of the air spring. (See Figures 2 & 3)

Figure 2
Figure 2

Figure 3
Figure 3

4. Remove screw securing the spring to the lower arm. (See Figure 4)

Figure 4
Figure 4

5. Depressurize the spring using a diagnostic computer such as an Autologic or a T4 System. (If you do not have access to these tools, observe caution when disconnecting the air line in step # 8 below. Use eye protection, as there will be compressed air in the air spring.)

6. Remove the bolt securing the damper to the lower arm, (See Figure 5) and release damper from lower arm.

Figure 5
Figure 5

7. With the help of an assistant and a pry bar (to force the lower arm down), or with a bottle jack (See Figure 6), lower the lower arm to allow access to the air supply line.

Figure 6
Figure 6

8. Disconnect and plug the air line, and remove the air spring. (As stated above, observe necessary precaution if the spring is still pressurized.)

Rear Coil Spring Installation
BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Using the spring compressor, compress the spring to about 14.00 inches (top and bottom spring seat bushings included). (See Figure 7)

Figure 7
Figure 7

2. Maneuver the compressed spring (with bushings) into place. (See Figures 8 & 9)

Figure 8
Figure 8

Figure 9
Figure 9

3. Be sure that you have the spring seated directly over the cup built into the lower arm (See Figures 10 & 11). There is a recess in the bottom of the bushing designed to fit over this cup.

Figure 10
Figure 10

Figure 11
Figure 11

4. You may need to force the lower arm down with the use of a bottle jack (observe necessary caution!!) (See Figure 12)

Figure 12
Figure 12

5. With the spring securely seated on the top and bottom, remove the spring compressor (being careful not to dislodge the bottle jack if used.)

6. Before removing the bottle jack (if used), secure the bottom bushing with the supplied ¾ inch bolt. Feed the bolt and washer between the coils of the spring and through the center hole of the bushing. From the bottom of the lower arm, thread the washer and nut onto the bolt. Tighten to 100 ft-lbs. (See Figure 13)

Figure 13
Figure 13

7. Remove the bottle jack, reattach the damper, and reinstall the wheel.

Part III - Installing the EAS ECU "In-Line Filter Module" Model (Part # 7980 version 2.0)

GO TO INSTALLING THE EAS ECU "In-Line Filter Module" Model (Part # 7980 version 2.0)

BACK TO TABLE OF CONTENTS

Complete Product Instructions List Page

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